I know you said you don't do a lot of 3d printer reviews. You should reconsider that. This is one of the best 3d printer reviews I've ever seen. Great explanations and points made.
Great job on this review Paul. I'll be honest, I didn't expect to watch the whole thing as I'm not in the market for one of these, but before I knew it it was over. I think you have a knack for this kind of thing.
Thanks man! i appreciate it. I want to keep away from turning into a review channel, but sometimes new tools are too interesting to turn down. Especially printers, since they seem to change so much year to year, and the capabilities are always expanding. There is a new resin coming out btw that you can pour metal directly into up to 500c. It's pretty awesome. That's going to make casting a whole lot more interesting!
Very nice video, mate! You gave your perspective on it without repeating the things everyone already knows about it ❤ I agree with you: the tilt mechanism is the star of the show here. AND the resolution now will improve just surface quality/reflection/shininess (which is what we can expect going forward and it’s awesome) - because detail wise we already passed what naked eyes perceive.
The tilt thing is making me nervous now, actually. I've heard some people have issues with wiring harnesses failing on the saturn 4 ultra, and i'm hoping that doesn't happen here. The "release counter" is over 100k, so that's a lot of cycles and I haven't had an issue yet, but i'm still nervous! i'm going to keep using it until something breaks, though.
All right, Paul! Well, more than all right, this my favorite review/opinion piece of this printer: Very comprehensive, practical, and thoughtful analysis delivered with your inimitable, entertaining style. Thanks. After decades of following 3d printing even while I worked at a bronze foundry, I think this will be the first one I actually purchase, though the Saturn 4 Ultra is tempting with its tilt lid and larger print area, but I have very limited space.
It's wild that we can get that resolution and speed (in this and other printers) for $300. It's well smaller than the feature size captured by petrobond. 😂
Oh yeah it's WAY smaller than petrobond grains lol. It's probably higher resolution than the resin can capture, which is higher resolution than even investment casting can capture. It's crazy
Mars has always been, in my opinion, the best bang-for-buck you can get. I loved my Mars 2 Ultra (for jewelry making) and really haven’t looked I buying a new one… until now.
@@PaulsGarage I think they could easily too, charge that much. I’ve been watching you off and on for about 5 years - you should most definitely make more printing review/use videos. You helped me to build my first furnace 4 years ago and greatly appreciate you and your sense of humor.
It seems to impress most who have used it. But down here in Oz I am having cold issues this winter with my Anycubic Mono 2. Heated enclosure will be needed. Faster is better when iterating fine tolerance engineering prints for motorised models.
Makes sense for iteration, and sorry to hear about the cold. It's pretty hot here but 6 months from now I'm going to be running enclosure heaters or heated vat printers. I'm surprised how big of a difference just 10 degrees makes
It seems to me there's plenty of room inside to put a DIY or third-party heater. Even before I made my heater, I had great success in the cold by just putting a small space heater next to the printer (Saturn). A small thermometer inside is all you really need.
@NickSpirov I've heard that works well, or even putting it all in a cheap plastic grow tent or something. My garage has a heater so I sometimes use that but heating a whole garage for 200ml of resin seems excessive
Check out once in a six side's video on using a $12 heating band with this printer which kept the printer nice and toasty. This will work with any printer that uses a vat.
what was your base layer exposure and normal layer exposure setting for the Monocure burnaway on the mars 5 ultra? just got this resin and my first print with a 30s base layer (5 of them) failed and I had nothing on the build plate. I heard this was supposed to be easy to print with..I have used many castable resins..this one so far hasnt been that easy lol
@rtsstream 30 seconds sound about right. I don't know exactly what mine is set at but I can check when I'm home later. If you are getting absolutely nothing stuck to the bed it might need a cleaning or a scuffing with sandpaper. You have the laser etched build plate, right? That should help, but it might need to be cleaned up out of the box.
Now that they've got resolution and speed well-addressed, they need to get this to be less of a toxic industrial process. Something you could have in your office or indoor shop without needing a vent-hood running 24/7.
totally agree. That's probably a job for the resin manufacturers, though. I suspect it isn't possible, so extraction vent or a garage shop outside the home is the way to go for now.
looking for my 1st resin printer, good points all around. Heated resin seems to be east 12$ fix. Fermentation Heating Belt from china. rubber thing around the resin vat. From looking other reviews etc, saw one comparing different heating methods. Zero noise and super cheap. Guy printed in 6-10c degree room with no problem.
@focusxreal they should all work fine for jewelry. Mars 4 ultra is a great machine for jewelry, will work well. I haven't tried it but vogman has and he said it works great
@@ggjjggrs-j7t I ain’t see much difference between the 4u & 5u print wise besides the new goodies of the 5u which is not a must for me and I get to save some money on top of that .. from countless reviews the mars 4u is highly praised , I feel like the 5u took two steps forward and one step backwards if that makes sense lol
My first question for any 3D printer: what slicers support it? And does at least one of those slicers have first order support for my operating system of choice, linux?
I had this choice a few weeks ago when the photon mono 4 ultra was announced, decided to go with the mars 5 ultra. Its a bit more expensive but it has tons of features and more software updates and that has made the experience so much better but the tilting vat feature really does help speed up prints and keep the resin mixed. Its pixels are 1 micron bigger than the phiton 4 ultra but its light uniformity is better so its still a more accurate and precise screen. Main downside is that you can accidentally spill resin into the machines insides and it generates tons of heat but thats a good thing if you print in a cold room and dont have a chamber heater. I use lychee for supports and slicing but i save in a chitubox format because the mars 5 ultra uses CHITUBOX and GOO format but chitubox lets you change settings while printing.
Probably should have figured that the light source would need a heatsink. If the price is right, I might have to look into one of these, as I'd be more comfortable with leaving it running than I am my FDM printer.
It's great to see someone finally knowledge the fact that all these pixel sizes or resolution as they love to call it are very insignificant I produce really high quality models for my segment It's all automotive based but people ask what printer are you using and then when I tell them that I'm still running older printers they tell me that that's not possible I can't get that detail out of my fill in the blank new printer It's about settings what resin you use how good you are tuning it I do think this new generation of Elegoo printers is going to make a huge difference unfortunately I have well over a thousand pre-size files in 28 resin printers making the switch would be well very expensive and very time consuming I did buy a couple of Saturn for Ultras to replace them really old original Saturns Yes I still run original Saturns and make great bottles on them but finally someone who's going to acknowledge that all these advancements and resolution are not what we need to focus on
If what you want to print fits on the mars 5 ultra, I would buy that one. If you want to print stuff that's too big, definitely the halot mage. I have a mage and this ultra, they both have their place for sure
Another side note you can make your own heater relatively cheaply for any resin printer that uses a metal fat I print rubber resin which is very finicky in fact there's a good chance that I'm going to use my Saturn Force to do rubber resin point being you can take some polymide heating strips that are adhesive and stick them to the vet get yourself a variable power supply or you want to get really fancy you can hook up a PID controller with a sensor attached to the fat or in the resin and turn your heaters on and off I have mine set for a certain voltage that maintains it right at the 25 to 27c that I need even with the motion it uses a very flexible silicone wire You could just make sure that it doesn't get caught up in the mechanism pretty easily. But I am a little surprised that they did not do something like this other than eligu likes to say that their printers are affordable which they are
btw elegoo makes a chamber heater for their resin printers which can basically work on any printer with a cutout vent like the one on this printer at the back. Its 60 dollars on amazon. It has a pid for the heat. so it goes on and off at 25c which is optimal. It has a carbon air filter but it will do nothing. That's the only gripe I have. The filter isn't big enough to really take out the voc's and may give people a false sense of safety since it does take the smell away but not the harmful components in the air. Chitu also make a chamber heater that just barely fits. its also 60 bucks. its not as "polished" of a product in the looks department and doesn't connect to any vent style. so it makes wiring and such a bit of an annoyance. but it does work and also fits many printers.
I'm still rockin' my O.G. Mars, and it still works fine* but I would indeed like some of the features you mention here - especially if the peeling motion of the bed helps those finicky burnout resins, like you surmise. I'm not working out of a garage, instead it's a basement, but the seasonal issues you describe definitely come into play (enough that I've thought about putting this whole damn thing in an insulated box - the better to pull the vapors through a filter.) ETA: well dang! I hadn't looked at the price when I first hit "post." So yeah, this thing looks pretty cool. Am I gonna go drop the cash on it tomorrow? IDK, probably not. With all the whiz-bang they packed into this thing, the things I figure we all know we need for resin printing now are fume extraction and a heated vat. Like, not even *hot* just consistently around 21 or 22 C (70-ish F) Sitting the bottle of resin in warm water before I shake it all up and put it into the printer sucks, but it works well enough that until and unless one of these comes out with the fume extraction setup (not these goofy charcoal filters inside the chamber that are too small to actually do anything) and a heated vat at a price point that realistically aligns with the O.G. Mars ($135?)+ An extraction port ($??? cents? Call it $15) + a terrarium heater($25) with a IDK one-third price bump to reflect all the whiz-bang.... So like $225? Heck, I'd go $300 if the damn thing used a file format that wasn't a goofy proprietary thing from chitusystems. I dunno. Maybe I'm getting too old and grouchy. The printer itself winds up being just one part of what's needed for the whole process. You don't *technically* need a wash and cure station, but consumables-wise you've gotta figure in the cost of isopropyl alcohol, all the blue shop wipes, all the gloves... I love the results! I'm just not crazy about the state of the hobby art with regards to the process and the supporting logistics. My Prusa i3 Mk3S+ on the other hand is basically fire and forget. As long as the filament is kept bone dry, everything's great. If the filament starts acting up, I put it in the food dehydrator overnight and try again in the morning and everything's golden. I don't need gloves or alcohol and with Octoprint set up I can just send a file almost like I would to a 2D paper printer. The trade off there of course is resolution, print times, and residue in burn-out.
totally agree. I have a prusa mk3s+ also and it's by far the most reliable printer i have. Push button, it works. It even prints filaments that come out looking bad on other printers. It was a great purchase. Resin printers are getting pretty reliable now, though. Now that this review is kinda old, i've come across 2 issues that really bug me about this thing. 1, it's too small. 2, a lack of heater isn't an issue, but the thing overheating IS an issue. I think because there is so little time between layers that the light source is on the majority of the time, and it gets super hot if the lid is on. This only really happens if the garage is in the mid 90's-100f, so maybe i'm pushing it a liittle too much lol
I've always been too scared to take the plunge into resin, but I have also always wanted to get into casting (and already have a forge)... insert meme of guy pressing 2 buttons here.
anything with a lot of surface area would cause audible pops when the film released between each layer. you could feel it distinctly if you were touching the machine. caused all kinds of distortion. as in, couldn't print functional gears or sprockets. anything light-weight and airy would be fine. wonder if this makes a difference.
Seems like a good situation to print with a upward tilt of the gear, and just have the stick out supported. Would add height and print time, but at least you'd have a working result.
@@PaulsGarage It appears so at least, I've heard nothing about any new DLP versions for the mars 5 line and for like the last 6 month elegoo wasn't restocking any consumables like fep and basins for the mars 4 dlp, but it seems like thats finally changing as the basin is avalible again. My only remaining hope is they are gonna roll the DLP tech into a new line of printers or are skipping a generation due to the fact DLP printers have such a longer life cycle.
You know I've never played a game of Warhammer, these are for One Page Rules (much simpler for my tiny mind). If I did try 40k, I would probably go Tau or Imperual Guard.
Resin printing technology seems to have leapt ahead even faster than FDM printing technology. My Phrozen Sonic Mini 4K is only two years old, sold for the exact same price, and is frankly pretty far behind in terms of features. It's a nice printer, it's done well for me and I do so relatively little resin printing that I don't feel an urge to upgrade, but man...by the time I'm ready to sell the Sonic on eBay and buy a new resin printer, we'll probably have heated vats and maybe even fancier features (like you see from HeyGears or Formlabs) for a similar price point. It'll be interesting to see how this fares against your UniFormation printer when the temperatures start dropping. Especially if you can find a reasonably-priced aftermarket bed heater for the Mars 5 Ultra.
Please!!! Try printing a clear lens!! I need to find a printer to print lenses, and the less sanding i need to do before gloss spray, The more delicate my caustics sculpture can be.
The Elegoo Mars 5 Ultra Printer: shrsl.com/4l58n
Also available on Amazon: amzn.to/4bx5CK0
Elegoo amazon store: amzn.to/45Tqaeu
I know you said you don't do a lot of 3d printer reviews. You should reconsider that. This is one of the best 3d printer reviews I've ever seen. Great explanations and points made.
Thank you! I generally try to make project videos but the occasional reviews slips in, I'll consider more
Great job on this review Paul. I'll be honest, I didn't expect to watch the whole thing as I'm not in the market for one of these, but before I knew it it was over. I think you have a knack for this kind of thing.
Thanks man! i appreciate it. I want to keep away from turning into a review channel, but sometimes new tools are too interesting to turn down. Especially printers, since they seem to change so much year to year, and the capabilities are always expanding. There is a new resin coming out btw that you can pour metal directly into up to 500c. It's pretty awesome. That's going to make casting a whole lot more interesting!
Very nice video, mate! You gave your perspective on it without repeating the things everyone already knows about it ❤ I agree with you: the tilt mechanism is the star of the show here. AND the resolution now will improve just surface quality/reflection/shininess (which is what we can expect going forward and it’s awesome) - because detail wise we already passed what naked eyes perceive.
The tilt thing is making me nervous now, actually. I've heard some people have issues with wiring harnesses failing on the saturn 4 ultra, and i'm hoping that doesn't happen here. The "release counter" is over 100k, so that's a lot of cycles and I haven't had an issue yet, but i'm still nervous! i'm going to keep using it until something breaks, though.
I need to know your resin setting. I need to know how to print faster and more detail
All right, Paul! Well, more than all right, this my favorite review/opinion piece of this printer: Very comprehensive, practical, and thoughtful analysis delivered with your inimitable, entertaining style. Thanks. After decades of following 3d printing even while I worked at a bronze foundry, I think this will be the first one I actually purchase, though the Saturn 4 Ultra is tempting with its tilt lid and larger print area, but I have very limited space.
It's wild that we can get that resolution and speed (in this and other printers) for $300. It's well smaller than the feature size captured by petrobond. 😂
Oh yeah it's WAY smaller than petrobond grains lol. It's probably higher resolution than the resin can capture, which is higher resolution than even investment casting can capture. It's crazy
Do you know what material the lid of this printer is made of?
Made an aluminium bronze D20 last week! Things are going well so far
That's so cool! Got any pictures of it?
@@PaulsGarageI’d love to email you or something, I don’t have any socials unfortunately, best way to live
Mars has always been, in my opinion, the best bang-for-buck you can get. I loved my Mars 2 Ultra (for jewelry making) and really haven’t looked I buying a new one… until now.
I'm surprised how cheap this one is considering how good it is. I was expecting 4 hundred or more honestly
@@PaulsGarage I think they could easily too, charge that much. I’ve been watching you off and on for about 5 years - you should most definitely make more printing review/use videos. You helped me to build my first furnace 4 years ago and greatly appreciate you and your sense of humor.
It seems to impress most who have used it. But down here in Oz I am having cold issues this winter with my Anycubic Mono 2. Heated enclosure will be needed. Faster is better when iterating fine tolerance engineering prints for motorised models.
Makes sense for iteration, and sorry to hear about the cold. It's pretty hot here but 6 months from now I'm going to be running enclosure heaters or heated vat printers. I'm surprised how big of a difference just 10 degrees makes
It seems to me there's plenty of room inside to put a DIY or third-party heater. Even before I made my heater, I had great success in the cold by just putting a small space heater next to the printer (Saturn). A small thermometer inside is all you really need.
@NickSpirov I've heard that works well, or even putting it all in a cheap plastic grow tent or something. My garage has a heater so I sometimes use that but heating a whole garage for 200ml of resin seems excessive
Check out once in a six side's video on using a $12 heating band with this printer which kept the printer nice and toasty. This will work with any printer that uses a vat.
@@Immolate62 not true, it doesn't work for any tilting vat printer like the Ultra. The vat wants to sink down and the belt will stop it.
Due to shrinkage issue in my Mars 4 ultra i increased x y compensation in chitubox but it's not working pl help
what was your base layer exposure and normal layer exposure setting for the Monocure burnaway on the mars 5 ultra? just got this resin and my first print with a 30s base layer (5 of them) failed and I had nothing on the build plate. I heard this was supposed to be easy to print with..I have used many castable resins..this one so far hasnt been that easy lol
@rtsstream 30 seconds sound about right. I don't know exactly what mine is set at but I can check when I'm home later. If you are getting absolutely nothing stuck to the bed it might need a cleaning or a scuffing with sandpaper. You have the laser etched build plate, right? That should help, but it might need to be cleaned up out of the box.
Can you recommend a printer with heated vat?
Uniformation gk2 or GK3 ultra are awesome
Now that they've got resolution and speed well-addressed, they need to get this to be less of a toxic industrial process.
Something you could have in your office or indoor shop without needing a vent-hood running 24/7.
totally agree. That's probably a job for the resin manufacturers, though. I suspect it isn't possible, so extraction vent or a garage shop outside the home is the way to go for now.
looking for my 1st resin printer, good points all around. Heated resin seems to be east 12$ fix. Fermentation Heating Belt from china. rubber thing around the resin vat. From looking other reviews etc, saw one comparing different heating methods. Zero noise and super cheap. Guy printed in 6-10c degree room with no problem.
Is 7 inches average or pretty ok?
So which Saturn you recommend for resin for jewelry? I’ll be using the dark resin from power resins which I heard is great for jewelry
According to my research this is better than the saturn bro
@@monsterdriftzz respect that bro , I ended up grabbing the mars 4 ultra couple days ago 🙏🏾
@focusxreal they should all work fine for jewelry. Mars 4 ultra is a great machine for jewelry, will work well. I haven't tried it but vogman has and he said it works great
@@focusxrealWhy didn't you buy mars5U instead of mars4U?
@@ggjjggrs-j7t I ain’t see much difference between the 4u & 5u print wise besides the new goodies of the 5u which is not a must for me and I get to save some money on top of that .. from countless reviews the mars 4u is highly praised , I feel like the 5u took two steps forward and one step backwards if that makes sense lol
u think it has better result than de mars 4 ultra to print 3d models of people?
My first question for any 3D printer: what slicers support it? And does at least one of those slicers have first order support for my operating system of choice, linux?
Excellent review, thanks. Elegoo Mars 5 Ultra or Anycubic Photon Mono 4 Ultra?
I've never tried Anycubic printers so I have no idea about them. This Mars is pretty good though
I had this choice a few weeks ago when the photon mono 4 ultra was announced, decided to go with the mars 5 ultra.
Its a bit more expensive but it has tons of features and more software updates and that has made the experience so much better but the tilting vat feature really does help speed up prints and keep the resin mixed.
Its pixels are 1 micron bigger than the phiton 4 ultra but its light uniformity is better so its still a more accurate and precise screen. Main downside is that you can accidentally spill resin into the machines insides and it generates tons of heat but thats a good thing if you print in a cold room and dont have a chamber heater.
I use lychee for supports and slicing but i save in a chitubox format because the mars 5 ultra uses CHITUBOX and GOO format but chitubox lets you change settings while printing.
can you use this in a small apartment . do i need to be wearing mask
Probably should have figured that the light source would need a heatsink. If the price is right, I might have to look into one of these, as I'd be more comfortable with leaving it running than I am my FDM printer.
ThermalVAT may work as a heating solution.
It's great to see someone finally knowledge the fact that all these pixel sizes or resolution as they love to call it are very insignificant I produce really high quality models for my segment It's all automotive based but people ask what printer are you using and then when I tell them that I'm still running older printers they tell me that that's not possible I can't get that detail out of my fill in the blank new printer It's about settings what resin you use how good you are tuning it I do think this new generation of Elegoo printers is going to make a huge difference unfortunately I have well over a thousand pre-size files in 28 resin printers making the switch would be well very expensive and very time consuming I did buy a couple of Saturn for Ultras to replace them really old original Saturns Yes I still run original Saturns and make great bottles on them but finally someone who's going to acknowledge that all these advancements and resolution are not what we need to focus on
What do you mean resolution doesn't matter?
I was waiting to see if you mentioned how the top came off as that was one of your comments on other printers
It's a lift off lid like the other Mars printers. Not ideal but at least it isn't big. All the plugs are on the side too
Great review, Paul. Thank you
i'm hesitation between the mars 5 and the creality halot mage S?? very confusing
If what you want to print fits on the mars 5 ultra, I would buy that one. If you want to print stuff that's too big, definitely the halot mage. I have a mage and this ultra, they both have their place for sure
@@PaulsGarage some jewellry pieces are my target. the creality halot mage s is 14k??
Another side note you can make your own heater relatively cheaply for any resin printer that uses a metal fat I print rubber resin which is very finicky in fact there's a good chance that I'm going to use my Saturn Force to do rubber resin point being you can take some polymide heating strips that are adhesive and stick them to the vet get yourself a variable power supply or you want to get really fancy you can hook up a PID controller with a sensor attached to the fat or in the resin and turn your heaters on and off I have mine set for a certain voltage that maintains it right at the 25 to 27c that I need even with the motion it uses a very flexible silicone wire You could just make sure that it doesn't get caught up in the mechanism pretty easily. But I am a little surprised that they did not do something like this other than eligu likes to say that their printers are affordable which they are
btw elegoo makes a chamber heater for their resin printers which can basically work on any printer with a cutout vent like the one on this printer at the back. Its 60 dollars on amazon. It has a pid for the heat. so it goes on and off at 25c which is optimal. It has a carbon air filter but it will do nothing. That's the only gripe I have. The filter isn't big enough to really take out the voc's and may give people a false sense of safety since it does take the smell away but not the harmful components in the air.
Chitu also make a chamber heater that just barely fits. its also 60 bucks. its not as "polished" of a product in the looks department and doesn't connect to any vent style. so it makes wiring and such a bit of an annoyance. but it does work and also fits many printers.
I'm still rockin' my O.G. Mars, and it still works fine* but I would indeed like some of the features you mention here - especially if the peeling motion of the bed helps those finicky burnout resins, like you surmise. I'm not working out of a garage, instead it's a basement, but the seasonal issues you describe definitely come into play (enough that I've thought about putting this whole damn thing in an insulated box - the better to pull the vapors through a filter.)
ETA: well dang! I hadn't looked at the price when I first hit "post."
So yeah, this thing looks pretty cool. Am I gonna go drop the cash on it tomorrow? IDK, probably not. With all the whiz-bang they packed into this thing, the things I figure we all know we need for resin printing now are fume extraction and a heated vat. Like, not even *hot* just consistently around 21 or 22 C (70-ish F)
Sitting the bottle of resin in warm water before I shake it all up and put it into the printer sucks, but it works well enough that until and unless one of these comes out with the fume extraction setup (not these goofy charcoal filters inside the chamber that are too small to actually do anything) and a heated vat at a price point that realistically aligns with the O.G. Mars ($135?)+ An extraction port ($??? cents? Call it $15) + a terrarium heater($25) with a IDK one-third price bump to reflect all the whiz-bang.... So like $225?
Heck, I'd go $300 if the damn thing used a file format that wasn't a goofy proprietary thing from chitusystems.
I dunno. Maybe I'm getting too old and grouchy. The printer itself winds up being just one part of what's needed for the whole process. You don't *technically* need a wash and cure station, but consumables-wise you've gotta figure in the cost of isopropyl alcohol, all the blue shop wipes, all the gloves...
I love the results! I'm just not crazy about the state of the hobby art with regards to the process and the supporting logistics.
My Prusa i3 Mk3S+ on the other hand is basically fire and forget. As long as the filament is kept bone dry, everything's great. If the filament starts acting up, I put it in the food dehydrator overnight and try again in the morning and everything's golden. I don't need gloves or alcohol and with Octoprint set up I can just send a file almost like I would to a 2D paper printer. The trade off there of course is resolution, print times, and residue in burn-out.
totally agree. I have a prusa mk3s+ also and it's by far the most reliable printer i have. Push button, it works. It even prints filaments that come out looking bad on other printers. It was a great purchase. Resin printers are getting pretty reliable now, though. Now that this review is kinda old, i've come across 2 issues that really bug me about this thing. 1, it's too small. 2, a lack of heater isn't an issue, but the thing overheating IS an issue. I think because there is so little time between layers that the light source is on the majority of the time, and it gets super hot if the lid is on. This only really happens if the garage is in the mid 90's-100f, so maybe i'm pushing it a liittle too much lol
@@PaulsGarage I mean, I guess I was griping about a heated vat *before* a heat wave hit us.
I've always been too scared to take the plunge into resin, but I have also always wanted to get into casting (and already have a forge)... insert meme of guy pressing 2 buttons here.
Haha why not both! Resin printing is way easier to get into than forging or casting, give it a shot
That's pretty slick. Hopefully it stays trouble free as it gets some use.
I hope so too. My old elegoo printer has been trouble free so far, hope this one is the same
anything with a lot of surface area would cause audible pops when the film released between each layer. you could feel it distinctly if you were touching the machine. caused all kinds of distortion. as in, couldn't print functional gears or sprockets. anything light-weight and airy would be fine. wonder if this makes a difference.
I have printed gears down to Mod0.2, but Mod0.3 will probably be the minimum till I can test Tough resin.
Seems like a good situation to print with a upward tilt of the gear, and just have the stick out supported. Would add height and print time, but at least you'd have a working result.
I'm so sad that Elegoo dropped the DLP variant for the Mars 5. Love my mars 4 dlp, but I'd love it more with the mars 5 enclosure and tilting vat.
They dropped the DLP? I didn't know that. I wish they continued developing it.
@@PaulsGarage It appears so at least, I've heard nothing about any new DLP versions for the mars 5 line and for like the last 6 month elegoo wasn't restocking any consumables like fep and basins for the mars 4 dlp, but it seems like thats finally changing as the basin is avalible again. My only remaining hope is they are gonna roll the DLP tech into a new line of printers or are skipping a generation due to the fact DLP printers have such a longer life cycle.
Paul, you're a fan of the Adeptus Sororitas, then? :) I like the Adeptus Mechanicus, myself.
You know I've never played a game of Warhammer, these are for One Page Rules (much simpler for my tiny mind). If I did try 40k, I would probably go Tau or Imperual Guard.
Resin printing technology seems to have leapt ahead even faster than FDM printing technology. My Phrozen Sonic Mini 4K is only two years old, sold for the exact same price, and is frankly pretty far behind in terms of features. It's a nice printer, it's done well for me and I do so relatively little resin printing that I don't feel an urge to upgrade, but man...by the time I'm ready to sell the Sonic on eBay and buy a new resin printer, we'll probably have heated vats and maybe even fancier features (like you see from HeyGears or Formlabs) for a similar price point.
It'll be interesting to see how this fares against your UniFormation printer when the temperatures start dropping. Especially if you can find a reasonably-priced aftermarket bed heater for the Mars 5 Ultra.
Ah, it doesn't auto level, it auto-zeros the build plate. It comes pre-leveled from the factory.
Please!!! Try printing a clear lens!! I need to find a printer to print lenses, and the less sanding i need to do before gloss spray,
The more delicate my caustics sculpture can be.
6 seconds , little more than twice as fast as my DLP at 14 seconds.
I kinda wish they kept developing DLP tech. It seems to have stagnated a bit.
@@PaulsGarage I agree 3 years and no screen change or dip engine change..just works!