This is awesome. We need more small guys making components. Support ourselves and tell the big guys to screw off! I hope you are able to sell more than you can make!
Great video. I built a system very similar to this during COVID when I couldn't find bullets in the store. Used the same solution and overall setup. I did discover that the 9mm needed to be sized to .354 BEFORE plating, or the plating would crack when sized. I've plated for 9mm, .380, .223, and 45 LC. I put it away when supplies came back, but this makes me want to play with it again. You can add a brightener (diluted MiraLAX) to the solution towards the end of run time and the boolets will come out shiny without tumbling. It needs to be added with each batch in my experience, and will eventually saturate the solution. Supposedly it can be removed with a charcoal filter to renew the solution, but I haven't tried that yet. Thanks!
Thank you for watching and if I may pick your brain a bit. How long did you cook-em for? Did you use any "pre-soak" any acids or anything like that? What did you find about long term storage? Did you resize 2 times or just pre-cooking?
@@boolitsbuildersllc.106 I would run them from 12 to 16 hours. When casting I would quench in distilled water and then hold them in acetone until I was ready for plating. The purpose was to prevent contact with air to minimize pre plating oxidation. This seemed to improve the adhesion of the copper to the lead, but it was never as good as powdercoating. I tried sizing to .356 (9mm) before plating and then again after plating to get back to spec, but the copper would always crack. That's when I decided it needed sized to .354 and plated back to the desired size. That's about the time that I put things away, and I haven't played with it since. I may tinker with it a bit more over the winter. One detail I remembered after commenting last night is that my solution used battery acid in lieu of salt. As far as storage i have a few hundred I made in 2021 that have been kept in a plastic jar with a lid. They look the same today as when I plated them, and are still shiny.
Roughly how long in the acetone? I tried muriatic acid for presoak (1 hr max soak time) and it turned them black. Sill coated just didn't stick as well.
@@boolitsbuildersllc.106 Just as long as it would take to set up the plating system after casting. Mainly to make sure the boolits were clean and never exposed to air. This usually never exceed 15 minutes or so. I never observed any discoloration.
@@grassyacreshomestead700hey! I’m preparing to build a system with the ammo crisis (that and wanting to get my ffl) and I was wondering if I could possibly get an email with some details on your setups for different round sizes? I work in the automotive industry so I have plenty of lead to smelt I just want to learn to make quality boolits. God bless!
There used to be several videos on you tube about copper plating. About 50 years ago when I was 17 or 18 I made the mistake of sticking my ladle in a Cast Iron Pot without pre heating it. Boy was I glad I wear Glasses. Emptied that 10 pot all over my Mothers Kitchen ,burned a might to. I built a P.I.D. controller for my Lee Bottom Pour 20 lb. casting pot and it really helped the uniformity on long sessions. These days I just Powder Coat but I did think of trying copper plating.
Thank you for watching and commenting. Oh, that's quite an experience! I can relate. It happened to me during my third attempt at melting down range scrap from a dirt berm. Luckily, we were outdoors, and we had around 30 pounds of dirt and scrap in a pot. After melting it down, my friend added another shovel full, and suddenly, there was a loud BOOM, POP, WHAMMY. More than half of the pot emptied out. It seems our guardian angels were watching over us that day. We still have the splatter pattern as a reminder of the close call.
I have heard rumors that you can filter it through a carbon filter, the kind made for your home when it gets murky. I have used the same solution from the start. I have only added more distilled water when it has evaporated. The copper anode is what needs to be replaced most often.
Any thoughts on tolerance and thickness of copper coating. Are the boolett diameters enlarging in a way to interfere with safety and performance. a Are they selling boolett molds that compensate. Say for example using a 223 mold for 556.
To the best of my knowledge. You can order any size molds. Safety, that is for you to do your research. I have run into no issues as of yet. Thank you for watching
Thanks for the video. Very interesting. I see you only do one treatment to cover the ends. There is one ingredient that I don't understand why: The root kill. I can't find anything similar here in my country. Which ingredient is really of interest to the mix? Thank you very much for your reply. Best regards!
Absolute genius. Thank you very much. I think if you put some MiraLax in the final rinse solution, it would prevent any oxidation from occurring during the final rinse step. The various glycols are really good oxidation preventatives. Not sure about the chemistry involved when you chuck vinegar into the mix, but it may be worth mixing MiraLax into the vinegar/distilled water step, too. Something to try, at least, as it may prevent you from having to vibrate 'em.
How much do you pay for the stump remover. (potassium nitrate)? Buying bulk potassium nitrate from a pyrotech distributor might be a lot cheaper if your going to continue making big batches ? Love the video . Did you ever try copper coating steel ?
Can you share what type of controller you are using and motor? I watch your other video of assembling the unit but I could not quite see the motor or controller very well. It would be cool if you you could share this. I would like to build one just like your. Looks cool. Thanks.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FNVESV2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 the motor I took out of an old something Its been awhile. But its something along these lines www.amazon.com/Bringsmart-Bracket-Diameter-Gearbox-Reduction/dp/B0C7GSFBRW/ref=sr_1_7?crid=35MRJ2285VUWY&keywords=dc%2Bmotor&qid=1697717452&s=industrial&sprefix=dc%2Bmotor%2Cindustrial%2C71&sr=1-7&th=1 the power supply is out of an old desktop computer.
How do you get the copper plating to form thick enough to not break off? Mine is probably .001 inches thick and flakes of easily. If i leave it in there longer it just dissolves back into the water
Thanks for watching the video. For me, its slow and low. 1.10 Amps and as slow of a rotation of the drum as you can get it without stalling out. 10 Hours Minimum of a cook (soak) time.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FNVESV2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 To power everything I used an old desktop computer power supply. Thank you so much for watching
I am not worried about the lead level. However if you choose to do this method. Use all Necessary PPE (personal protection equipment) to keep yourself safe. Thank you for watching.
this looks like a cool process. However. It states it removes a small layer of metal. So for me I think I would stick with the dry polishing for the boolits. Only takes an hour and I assume it keeps most of the plating intact using the dry polish method.
I think that the axle on which chamber is rotating delivers the current; it's extended into the chamber and has a bent so the bullets can tumble around it. That's my observation only
you are correct the cathode is made of lead and old jumper cable. weights about 1lb to keep it in the bottom of the Boolits and is stuck through the hollow axle and does have a slight bend to keep it flat in the drum. Thank you for watching
I drilled a 1in x 1.5in hole and piece of wood and filled it with hot lead and used 2ft old jumper cable wire and put it in the lead as it was hot. Waited till it solidified Then I stuck it through the hollow axle. Thank you for watching
Absolutely genius ! Where did you find this rotating + electricity engine ? EDIT : Ok I’m figuring out the screen part is a variable power supply that probably feed a rotating tool… I thought that was an all in one but not sure ? I should watch the video again, there’s so much cool informations for a beginner like me !
i have done at least 2000 rounds with no changing of the soup. Have replaced the copper and added more water and salt. But only once with the root kill. Thank you for watching
@@princebutterofknob19 This has been the conundrum. If you use the standard size, let's say Lee casting dies, you can only cook them for 10 to 12 hours. Anything over that, it's virtually impossible to put through a resizing dye. So the theory was to order custom modes. .001 smaller and then cook them for 24 hours.. However, I have not tried resizing them to a smaller size before plating them. If that works, please post your results. No worries for the questions. I invite them. Thanks for watching.
Im a potter. You can by copper in two forms. Copper carbonate; and copper oxide. Both in powder form. The stuff is relatively expensive but highly concentrated.
Do you ever get tested for lead poisoning? personally I do all my casting outdoors, in the free air, with a respirator on. I can still smell the lead in the air around the lead pot, while outdoors, without a respirator. I get tested for lead every year. Before I wore the respirator, while casting outdoors, my lead level actually tested just about into the danger zone. After I started wearing the respirator my levels went way down into the safe zone. I have to wonder how you're doing casting in an enclosed space with no respirator?
Cool process and concept. Smash test shows it flakes right off. Don't think this will survive the violence of a barrel throat. Pretty sure pure lead core is needed for proper adhesion of plating, and surviving the smash test.
thank you for watching, After firing 2,000 rounds, there is minimal barrel leading, comparable to what a high-quality powder coat would leave behind. Nonetheless, experimenting with pure lead poses a challenge in achieving the correct brinell hardness. Don't you think?
copper sulfate. Apparently you can run the annoyed and cattle backwards and create the same solution you get UA-cam videos on that. thank you for watching
Dang, this is really kool. I really gotta quit watching you tube, sure getting pricey😂 Sure does seem like way more involved than powder coat, but if had a way to do 1000- 5000, set it and forget it, may be a really good option. Thanks alot for sharing this, appreciate it.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #30 ДВА В ОДНОМ [Один человек]• Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nrXy15orKhY/mqdefault.jpg)
And this my friends is why American ingenuity is the best. Great video. Thanks brother.
Thanks for watching
This is awesome. We need more small guys making components. Support ourselves and tell the big guys to screw off! I hope you are able to sell more than you can make!
Thank you for watching and for the encouragement.
Great video. I built a system very similar to this during COVID when I couldn't find bullets in the store. Used the same solution and overall setup. I did discover that the 9mm needed to be sized to .354 BEFORE plating, or the plating would crack when sized. I've plated for 9mm, .380, .223, and 45 LC. I put it away when supplies came back, but this makes me want to play with it again. You can add a brightener (diluted MiraLAX) to the solution towards the end of run time and the boolets will come out shiny without tumbling. It needs to be added with each batch in my experience, and will eventually saturate the solution. Supposedly it can be removed with a charcoal filter to renew the solution, but I haven't tried that yet. Thanks!
Thank you for watching and if I may pick your brain a bit.
How long did you cook-em for?
Did you use any "pre-soak" any acids or anything like that?
What did you find about long term storage?
Did you resize 2 times or just pre-cooking?
@@boolitsbuildersllc.106 I would run them from 12 to 16 hours. When casting I would quench in distilled water and then hold them in acetone until I was ready for plating. The purpose was to prevent contact with air to minimize pre plating oxidation. This seemed to improve the adhesion of the copper to the lead, but it was never as good as powdercoating. I tried sizing to .356 (9mm) before plating and then again after plating to get back to spec, but the copper would always crack. That's when I decided it needed sized to .354 and plated back to the desired size. That's about the time that I put things away, and I haven't played with it since. I may tinker with it a bit more over the winter. One detail I remembered after commenting last night is that my solution used battery acid in lieu of salt. As far as storage i have a few hundred I made in 2021 that have been kept in a plastic jar with a lid. They look the same today as when I plated them, and are still shiny.
Roughly how long in the acetone?
I tried muriatic acid for presoak (1 hr max soak time) and it turned them black. Sill coated just didn't stick as well.
@@boolitsbuildersllc.106 Just as long as it would take to set up the plating system after casting. Mainly to make sure the boolits were clean and never exposed to air. This usually never exceed 15 minutes or so. I never observed any discoloration.
@@grassyacreshomestead700hey! I’m preparing to build a system with the ammo crisis (that and wanting to get my ffl) and I was wondering if I could possibly get an email with some details on your setups for different round sizes? I work in the automotive industry so I have plenty of lead to smelt I just want to learn to make quality boolits. God bless!
There used to be several videos on you tube about copper plating. About 50 years ago when I was 17 or 18 I made the mistake of sticking my ladle in a Cast Iron Pot without pre heating it. Boy was I glad I wear Glasses. Emptied that 10 pot all over my Mothers Kitchen ,burned a might to. I built a P.I.D. controller for my Lee Bottom Pour 20 lb. casting pot and it really helped the uniformity on long sessions. These days I just Powder Coat but I did think of trying copper plating.
Thank you for watching and commenting.
Oh, that's quite an experience! I can relate. It happened to me during my third attempt at melting down range scrap from a dirt berm. Luckily, we were outdoors, and we had around 30 pounds of dirt and scrap in a pot. After melting it down, my friend added another shovel full, and suddenly, there was a loud BOOM, POP, WHAMMY. More than half of the pot emptied out. It seems our guardian angels were watching over us that day. We still have the splatter pattern as a reminder of the close call.
That's super cool. Any idea how long that copper sulfate solution lasts before you have to change it out?
I have heard rumors that you can filter it through a carbon filter, the kind made for your home when it gets murky. I have used the same solution from the start. I have only added more distilled water when it has evaporated. The copper anode is what needs to be replaced most often.
That's slick - thanks for the video. I do think a person could follow your video and have a good copper coated cast bullet.
Thank you we appreciate the feedback. Ease like comment and share.
Any thoughts on tolerance and thickness of copper coating. Are the boolett diameters enlarging in a way to interfere with safety and performance. a
Are they selling boolett molds that compensate. Say for example using a 223 mold for 556.
To the best of my knowledge. You can order any size molds. Safety, that is for you to do your research. I have run into no issues as of yet. Thank you for watching
Thanks for the video. Very interesting. I see you only do one treatment to cover the ends. There is one ingredient that I don't understand why: The root kill. I can't find anything similar here in my country. Which ingredient is really of interest to the mix? Thank you very much for your reply.
Best regards!
copper sulfate
Absolute genius. Thank you very much.
I think if you put some MiraLax in the final rinse solution, it would prevent any oxidation from occurring during the final rinse step. The various glycols are really good oxidation preventatives.
Not sure about the chemistry involved when you chuck vinegar into the mix, but it may be worth mixing MiraLax into the vinegar/distilled water step, too. Something to try, at least, as it may prevent you from having to vibrate 'em.
I'll try that. Thanks for watching
Please leave some comments, like and share
How much do you pay for the stump remover. (potassium nitrate)? Buying bulk potassium nitrate from a pyrotech distributor might be a lot cheaper if your going to continue making big batches ? Love the video . Did you ever try copper coating steel ?
no never steel & $15.28 for 32oz. thank you for watching
Can you share what type of controller you are using and motor? I watch your other video of assembling the unit but I could not quite see the motor or controller very well. It would be cool if you you could share this. I would like to build one just like your. Looks cool. Thanks.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FNVESV2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
the motor I took out of an old something Its been awhile. But its something along these lines
www.amazon.com/Bringsmart-Bracket-Diameter-Gearbox-Reduction/dp/B0C7GSFBRW/ref=sr_1_7?crid=35MRJ2285VUWY&keywords=dc%2Bmotor&qid=1697717452&s=industrial&sprefix=dc%2Bmotor%2Cindustrial%2C71&sr=1-7&th=1
the power supply is out of an old desktop computer.
the complete new rebuild video. ua-cam.com/video/MVBodY3WsYA/v-deo.html
How often do you have to replace the mixture? Or could you just maintain it and re-use it for several batches?
Havent replaced it at all just have added more distilled water and salt
How do you get the copper plating to form thick enough to not break off? Mine is probably .001 inches thick and flakes of easily. If i leave it in there longer it just dissolves back into the water
Thanks for watching the video.
For me, its slow and low. 1.10 Amps and as slow of a rotation of the drum as you can get it without stalling out. 10 Hours Minimum of a cook (soak) time.
What power supply module are you using with the display? Terrific build by the way!
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FNVESV2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
To power everything I used an old desktop computer power supply.
Thank you so much for watching
@@boolitsbuildersllc.106 @Thanks it's much appreciated.
Never found smaller molds than 355… Most of them are 356.
Where do you get them ? 🤔
I’m currently working on my own machine, thanks to you 👍
arsenalmolds.com/products Thank you for watching
They look more professional than powder coated lime green, etc. They look really nice.
Thank you and thanks for watching
Are you worried about your lead levels vaping while casting?
I am not worried about the lead level. However if you choose to do this method. Use all Necessary PPE (personal protection equipment) to keep yourself safe. Thank you for watching.
Awesome Job . Thanks for sharing
Thank you! Cheers!
Amazing, nicely done my friend!
Thanks for the visit
Have you considered electropolishing over dry polishing? If so what are your thoughts on electropolishing?
this looks like a cool process. However. It states it removes a small layer of metal. So for me I think I would stick with the dry polishing for the boolits. Only takes an hour and I assume it keeps most of the plating intact using the dry polish method.
Outstanding. Could you make a quick video of how you made and connected the cathode?
ua-cam.com/video/sJyerm02CIk/v-deo.html
the complete new rebuild video. ua-cam.com/video/MVBodY3WsYA/v-deo.html
Bravo, they look great!
thank you and thank you for watching
Amazing job .
Thank you! Cheers!
How did you connect the negative to the boolits? I tried to peak inside the lid but couldn't quite tell.
I think that the axle on which chamber is rotating delivers the current; it's extended into the chamber and has a bent so the bullets can tumble around it. That's my observation only
you are correct the cathode is made of lead and old jumper cable. weights about 1lb to keep it in the bottom of the Boolits and is stuck through the hollow axle and does have a slight bend to keep it flat in the drum. Thank you for watching
I drilled a 1in x 1.5in hole and piece of wood and filled it with hot lead and used 2ft old jumper cable wire and put it in the lead as it was hot. Waited till it solidified Then I stuck it through the hollow axle. Thank you for watching
the complete new rebuild video. ua-cam.com/video/MVBodY3WsYA/v-deo.html
Great video thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
Absolutely genius ! Where did you find this rotating + electricity engine ?
EDIT : Ok I’m figuring out the screen part is a variable power supply that probably feed a rotating tool…
I thought that was an all in one but not sure ?
I should watch the video again, there’s so much cool informations for a beginner like me !
the motor is mounted on the top side of the unit. and just connected to drive gears. thank you for watching
I 3d printed a bearing and a hollow axle to feed the cathode through.
@@boolitsbuildersllc.106 Ok !! Thanks a lot for the answer and the videos 🙏
No worries Thank you for watching
the complete new rebuild video. ua-cam.com/video/MVBodY3WsYA/v-deo.html
Leaving a comment because this is cool
thank you
What if you put holes in your window? Would that keep Amps more consistent?
I'm thinking it's because it restricts the bubbles or something 🤷🏽♂️
yes, it was the lack of holes. I melted more holes in the door. much more consistent. Thank you for watching
the complete new rebuild video. ua-cam.com/video/MVBodY3WsYA/v-deo.html
I love the video but you gotta tell me the band/background track in the first 7 mins. Please and thank you.
HookSounds.com RockVibes-FULL.mp3 thank you for watching
Question. How many rounds can you plate with 1 round of your solution?
i have done at least 2000 rounds with no changing of the soup. Have replaced the copper and added more water and salt. But only once with the root kill.
Thank you for watching
@@boolitsbuildersllc.106 one more question sorry. Do you pre size the lead before electroplating and if so what size die do you push em through.
@@princebutterofknob19 This has been the conundrum. If you use the standard size, let's say Lee casting dies, you can only cook them for 10 to 12 hours. Anything over that, it's virtually impossible to put through a resizing dye. So the theory was to order custom modes. .001 smaller and then cook them for 24 hours.. However, I have not tried resizing them to a smaller size before plating them. If that works, please post your results. No worries for the questions. I invite them. Thanks for watching.
@@boolitsbuildersllc.106 thank you so very much. Im very grateful for your knowledge. Youve helped me out a lot here.
Im a potter. You can by copper in two forms. Copper carbonate; and copper oxide. Both in powder form. The stuff is relatively expensive but highly concentrated.
Good news to know. Thank you for watchin
Do you ever get tested for lead poisoning? personally I do all my casting outdoors, in the free air, with a respirator on. I can still smell the lead in the air around the lead pot, while outdoors, without a respirator. I get tested for lead every year. Before I wore the respirator, while casting outdoors, my lead level actually tested just about into the danger zone. After I started wearing the respirator my levels went way down into the safe zone. I have to wonder how you're doing casting in an enclosed space with no respirator?
there is a fan just out of camera view blowing all the fumes out side the structure
Cool process and concept. Smash test shows it flakes right off. Don't think this will survive the violence of a barrel throat. Pretty sure pure lead core is needed for proper adhesion of plating, and surviving the smash test.
thank you for watching, After firing 2,000 rounds, there is minimal barrel leading, comparable to what a high-quality powder coat would leave behind. Nonetheless, experimenting with pure lead poses a challenge in achieving the correct brinell hardness. Don't you think?
Worth it?
Thank you for watching
copper sulfate. Apparently you can run the annoyed and cattle backwards and create the same solution you get UA-cam videos on that. thank you for watching
Dang, this is really kool. I really gotta quit watching you tube, sure getting pricey😂 Sure does seem like way more involved than powder coat, but if had a way to do 1000- 5000, set it and forget it, may be a really good option. Thanks alot for sharing this, appreciate it.
Not a fan of powder coating. Thanks for watching
Thanks
For what?
@@boolitsbuildersllc.106 the video..thanks for the video
Someone should make a copper plate system for bullet casters
Thanks for watching
safety points for using the hole in a towel on the water bucket.
oh man I found an old metal lamp shade last week works amazing. Thanks for watching
Put a little car wax (carnauba) in the media when you tumble... it will put a thin layer of protection on the copper.
i am currently usings mother mag and Aluminum polish works pretty good. I'll try the other. Thanks for watching
Kosher salt is not epsom salts. Kosher salt is sodium chloride, epsom salts is magnesium sulfate.
Thank you for distinguishing the difference between the two and thank you for watching
Cool method. Words of advice, talk faster and stop him hauling around. This video could have been done in about 3 or 4 minutes...
Thanks for the view
Well skip through. A lot of us enjoy detail and watching the process. Editing was perfect in my opinion. Subscribed
Welcome to reloading, we like to yap. If you don’t have the patience to listen, it’s not for you.
That’s a lot of work for minimal results compared to the ease of powder coating.
Thanks for watching.
Is'nt memory loss a sign of lead poisoning...? Justsayin...
wwwn.cdc.gov/TSP/ToxFAQs/ToxFAQsDetails.aspx?faqid=93&toxid=22#:~:text=The%20nervous%20system%20is%20the,cause%20damage%20to%20reproductive%20organs.
Chemicals = Memory loss. Drill holes in the window.
I had forgotten about those chemicals causing memory loss 😂
What chems cause memory loss and is it according to the state of CA Proposition 65