Dette er jo genialt 😁 Takk for bra video 👍 Jeg har hatt trøbbel med "shake'n bake" tørt her i vårt nordiske klima. Så nå er det Biltema silikon spray og Eastwood Ford Blue som er dagens plan! Håper det fungerer med det pulveret..
Genius 👍😁 I'll try it out this afternoon, i've had trouble.with dry "shake'n bake" in my nordic climate.. I hope the silicone spray play well with Eastwood Ford Blue powder..
During the baking in the oven the lead alloy recrystallizes, the water quenching of the hot bullets make them harder (if the alloy contains antimony and arsenic, like wheel weight alloy). The water quenching also makes the coat harden quicker, making the bullets separate easier, lessening the risk of clumps.
Great video. i have tried this method using wd40 silicone and it doesnt work. THANK YOU !!!! Can you recommend a silicone spray? Maybe my dust is wet ... I live in the Balearic Islands and the humidity is high , Thanks
The key for me is to not use too much silicone. Too much will clump the powder leaving bare spots. I use generic hardware store silicone spray. The data sheet for it just says "silicone and heptane".
Wow. How does the silicone do this? I've been using you heat first method and it works great. I get better results with satin finish powder. Gloss never coats well first time. Which do you use? Thanks again for another super video.
I asked the same question to Glen Fryxell (author of "From ingot to target"), as well as to ask if the silicone evaporate through the coating. He wrote: "The silicone is serving as a tacky adhesion layer. It may also be serving as a binder, depending on the chemical structure of the powder used in coating. I have used silicone grease straight as bullet lube before, and it works fine (no damage to bores). My only concern would be the baking step oxidizing the silicone oil up to silica, which is an abrasive. As a general guideline, silicone oils start to degrade (smoke temp) above about 250C (480F), and don't fully oxidize until much higher, e.g. above 400C (750F). As I understand it, most powder coating involves baking at 350F (177C) to maybe 400F (204C), which is well within the stable range of most silicone oils. No, I would not expect it to evaporate during baking. I would expect it to get tied up in the polymer coating."
@@jaycousland9835Hi Jay. I knew black was a bad colour for that. Been given about 4kg of Kawasaki green from a local paint shop. I'll be casting this weekend. Take care mate.
Dette er jo genialt 😁
Takk for bra video 👍
Jeg har hatt trøbbel med "shake'n bake" tørt her i vårt nordiske klima.
Så nå er det Biltema silikon spray og Eastwood Ford Blue som er dagens plan!
Håper det fungerer med det pulveret..
Genius 👍😁
I'll try it out this afternoon, i've had trouble.with dry "shake'n bake" in my nordic climate..
I hope the silicone spray play well with Eastwood Ford Blue powder..
Provade silikon första gången nu. Och måste säga tack för tipset! Fungerade riktigt bra 👌
Interesting. Will try your silicone method.
Great video. Thanks for the instruction.
Ser bra ut! Jag har en cykelkorg i vattenhinken när jag dumpar dom i vatten. Lätt att få upp alla på en gång då
why throw the bullets in the water? is it a technique to improve the performance of bullets or just to cool faster?
During the baking in the oven the lead alloy recrystallizes, the water quenching of the hot bullets make them harder (if the alloy contains antimony and arsenic, like wheel weight alloy). The water quenching also makes the coat harden quicker, making the bullets separate easier, lessening the risk of clumps.
Great video. i have tried this method using wd40 silicone and it doesnt work. THANK YOU !!!! Can you recommend a silicone spray? Maybe my dust is wet ... I live in the Balearic Islands and the humidity is high , Thanks
The key for me is to not use too much silicone. Too much will clump the powder leaving bare spots.
I use generic hardware store silicone spray. The data sheet for it just says "silicone and heptane".
Will this method pass Fortune Cookies adhesion test?
If you mean the smash and squeeze test, then yes.
The coating is still intact on bullets recovered from the berm.
what product did you use in the spray?
As I say in the video, the spray is generic hardware store silicone spray.
Snyggt, bra metod! 👌🏻
Is the silicone spray a dry spray or Liquid like the lubricant
Is that sheet parchment paper or wax paper?
Teflon baking sheet.
Wow. How does the silicone do this?
I've been using you heat first method and it works great. I get better results with satin finish powder. Gloss never coats well first time. Which do you use?
Thanks again for another super video.
I asked the same question to Glen Fryxell (author of "From ingot to target"), as well as to ask if the silicone evaporate through the coating. He wrote:
"The silicone is serving as a tacky adhesion layer. It may also be serving as a binder, depending on the chemical structure of the powder used in coating. I have used silicone grease straight as bullet lube before, and it works fine (no damage to bores). My only concern would be the baking step oxidizing the silicone oil up to silica, which is an abrasive. As a general guideline, silicone oils start to degrade (smoke temp) above about 250C (480F), and don't fully oxidize until much higher, e.g. above 400C (750F). As I understand it, most powder coating involves baking at 350F (177C) to maybe 400F (204C), which is well within the stable range of most silicone oils. No, I would not expect it to evaporate during baking. I would expect it to get tied up in the polymer coating."
BZHprepper ,rumor has it that non-gloss powdercoating have abrasives that may damage the bore
@@jaycousland9835Hi Jay. I knew black was a bad colour for that. Been given about 4kg of Kawasaki green from a local paint shop. I'll be casting this weekend. Take care mate.
Do you do 2 coats like when using acetone,or just one?
Only one. I've looked at acetone and hi-tek methods, but doing multiple coats is a big no go for me.