Thank you for being here! If it feels right to you, help me spread the word about this channel… 1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder (60 sec): ua-cam.com/video/ZQHtrVFUHdk/v-deo.html
I've watched several 4L60E disasssembly videos, and yours is by far the best. You and your cameraman deserve kudos for filming things in a way that shows good detail of what you're doing. Starting with clean parts and moving slowly through the process makes a lot of difference to those of us who don't do this every day. Besides being a good mechanic, you're also a good teacher! I think I have the courage to delve into my tranny now! I have little doubt that I'll find a broken sun shell. (no reverse, no second or fourth gear.) Kudos also to your parents and whomever else helped you in your youth to overcome your deformity. I wish my aunt and uncle had done the same. After too much coddling, my cousin doesn't use his "stump" nearly as effortlessly as you appear to do. Thalidomide be damned!
Bro mad respect for doing this one armed. I've no excuse now. I should be working on my car and doing the trans myself. You've convinced me and your videos are giving me the knowledge I was struggling to find elsewhere. Your a legend man, can't wait to watch the rest of these videos and have you with me pulling mine apart.
I have never seen someone work as smart as you do. Your attention to detail is second to none. My 4l60e lost 3rd gear and you have inspired me to take it on myself… Great video as always, thank you!
This has got to be the BEST UA-cam Vid I've ever seen!!! You set the bar, Brother, no matter the subject matter, this is how it should be done, and your demeanor is what others should emmulate. You should be a Platinum UA-camr!!!! Thanks for all that you do!
I actually started watching another guy although he was very descriptive in the beginning he slacked off towards the end luckily I found this video and was able to complete the tear down this is my first transmission rebuild
Hey Robert....I'm enjoying your videos on the 4L60. I took an automatic trans class around 20 years ago. I love doing maintenance and repairs on the side for my friends and family as well as the occasional buy and flip. I have an 05 Yukon XL 1500 that rolled in the shop. It's pretty evident to me based off the symptoms that the 3-4 clutch pack is burnt. I look forward to supporting you by buying the products / tools you're recommending. Before I just yank it and rebuild it, I want to make sure there's no other issues to address. What bothers me is that it doesn't shift out of 1st gear on it's own when in drive. If I move the shifter into L2 it will go from 1-2 normally. When I move it to L3 the engine freewheels. The trans had been regularly serviced every 30K. When it failed it was pulling a heavier camper on a long trip. The dash indicated a trans temp warning and that's when this all started. Any help pointing me in the right direction for diagnosis would be appreciated. There are no DTC's currently on the computer.
I'm on a mission to get more people involved with automatic transmissions. People are intimidated by these things...and I want to change that. If it's possible for a Southpaw, then it's possible for anyone. If you're interested in helping me spread the word... 1 Handed Automatic Transmission Builder: (60-Second Preview) ua-cam.com/video/y3Vixa_Ec1E/v-deo.html Thanks for dropping me a line, 250GT Skyline.
Very interesting videos, and certainly make you appreciate the complexity of an automatic transmission. Would like to see some videos on diagnosing transmission problems.
I was very impressed by your videos, very thorough, and the rate at which you worked certainly made me think you know transmissions backward and forward. I, personally would love to see you do a transmission diagnostic video. For those of us who don't, at this point, plan to rebuild a transmission we sure would appreciate information as to how they go wrong and what the symptoms represent. Thanks for the great stuff. JackN @@SouthpawAutoworks
My 4L65e has a pressed on Rear Ring Gear onto the 4Wheel Drive Tail Shaft. I successfully pressed it off, but now trying to get the 2 Wheel Drive Tail Shaft pressed into the Rear Ring Gear is a real problem. Because the tail shaft has the speedometer gear, it is larger than than the opening of the case. So I guess I have to make a jig to hold the case and ring gear while I press in the tail shaft. What a pain! Thanks for your informative videos.
If the ring gear has the dimples, then getting the shaft back through the ring gear will require a little persuasion. If it were me... (disclaimer: do what I do at your own risk) I'd stack in the rear guts, all the way up to the Center Support (install rear ring gear, rear planet, etc, etc, and ultimately install center support). Install the large yellow snap ring, that retains the Center Support inside of the trans case. Now, the Center Support provides a surface to work against. Gently install the output shaft, lining up the splines. When I encounter the press-fit, I use the bottom of my hammer handle (rubber coated), and strike the rear of the output shaft. Shouldn't take much effort to install it. Hope this helps.
@@SouthpawAutoworks thanks very much for your advice. I appreciate your comments and enjoy your videos. You explain things in detail when many guys just breeze over the important things. I'll try reassembly using your advice.Thanks
The positive feedback is appreciated. No sequel, at this point in time. But, it's just a matter of time before a build series is put together. Currently working on other 4L60E videos. Thanks for dropping me a line.
Hey i liked this video you are good working on transmisions with one hand keep up the good work i would love for for you to repair my geo metro 1993 automatice transmision good vidoes
Yukon transmission for sale? No. Southpaw Autoworks is all about teaching people how to fix/rebuild/upgrade their own transmission. 1 Handed Automatic Transmission Builder: (60-Second Preview) ua-cam.com/video/y3Vixa_Ec1E/v-deo.html Thanks for dropping me a line, OBINHO JUVE.
I lost gear 3&4 in my 07Avalanch, so I had transmission rebuilt. Truck drove fine for 2 months then lost 4th again and then it wouldn't come out of 1st. Transmission shop say they can find anything wrong with the transmission. had engine check and its good..... What could it be?
I just removed a 4l60e from my brother's 4wd 2001 Chevy Silverado. Have been unable to locate a reman. They ask for code I found 3kcd, they said that's not it. Then I found gmpt 4l60e, still nothing. I'm thinking of attempting a rebuild.
I see you didnt remove the last part(reverse piston?). Is this because they are not removed typically or is it because of the tooling needed or another reason?
It's simply due to habit... When I was wrenching for a transmission shop, I would only tear the unit down far enough to look at all of the usual suspects. After the inspection was complete, a parts list was put together. The service-writer would use my parts list to put together an estimate for the customer. The customer would either give us the green light...or look into other options. So, during a teardown, there was no need to remove the Low-Reverse piston....not until I knew that we were moving forward with the rebuild/repair. Removing the piston before then, could potentially result in time wasted...and time is money. To answer your question... For a rebuild, the Low-Reverse piston must be removed. It has three (3) seals on it, that must be replaced. Plus, the piston must be removed in order to clean the piston, and clean the transmission case. For the sake of these videos, I really need to be showing the piston removal, during teardown. Thank you for pointing this out. Much appreciated.
Just now got the time and parts to reassemble it, wish me luck One question, the TCC Solenoid used a small check ball? I think one came out of the snout of the tcc@@SouthpawAutoworks
If we're talking about a 0.250" check-ball...... That's something that some builders would do on a 700-R4. It's not necessary on the 4L60E. If you don't already know, the 4L60E is the successor to the 700-R4 (also known as the 4L60...no E). The early 4L60E (93-94) uses a nearly identical pump to the 700-R4. The 700-R4 is controlled by a cable (connected to the carburetor) and a governor (driven by wheel speed). This trans lived in the days before computer controls. Even though there was no computer, the trans, however, did still need electricity....in order to operate the TCC solenoid. Under the right conditions, a pressure switch, located on the VB (valve-body), would create a path to ground, for the TCC Solenoid circuit...which would turn on the solenoid...which causes oil to flow in a different direction inside the converter...which causes the TCC to engage. If someone didn't want to run a power wire to the trans, but still wanted the TCC to work, this is where the check-ball located in the snout comes into the picture. It's not perfect (it has a drawback), but it is a solution. If we're talking about a check-ball that's much smaller than 0.250".... It could've been the check-ball located inside of the TCC Solenoid. It's not supposed to come out. If you're interested in learning about how the 4L60E On/Off solenoids work... 4L60E Shift Solenoid - Part 1 (Basic Operation) ua-cam.com/video/FaChWmcsAgI/v-deo.html Note: Both shift solenoids, and the TCC Solenoid, are On/Off solenoids. PWM solenoids are a different animal.
Mine its a 94 On/Off the year pre PWM Yea its a smaller check ball like 3/16 I didnt exactly know where it came but asking some people told me that the only place it couldve come off was the TCC, so this means I need a new TCC Solenoid@@SouthpawAutoworks
I believe that you're asking...is it possible to replace a worn out band, and an Input Drum that has worn out clutches, with a new band and a new Input Drum (that already has new clutches installed)? It is possible to do this, and not have to remove everything else from inside the trans. This can even be done without removing the VB (valve-body). However.......... If your trans has a band and some clutches that are smoked, there's a reason that they're smoked. If we simply replace old clutches with new ones, I imagine that it will get the trans/vehicle back on the road. But, it probably won't be long before the new clutches are smoked again (this applies to the band, too). If we want to do the job once, and be done with it, then it's important to identify why the clutches failed in the first place (root cause of failure). Could be caused by a number of things inside the trans, and even outside the trans. A video topic for another time.
My brother bought a trans off a guy for his 94 chevy k1500 4wd..guy said he had rebuilt it. It's the 4L60e Trans. The trans will go in all gears and move in every gear. The problem is in overdrive,3, or 2 it stays in one gear and doesn't shift. If you put trans in low gear it will shift while driving and as soon as you let off the throttle it will down shift really fast....if your going fast enough it will slide the rear tires. Any idea what may be the issue?
It sounds like the transmission is in "Limp Mode." If the PCM (computer) detects a transmission problem, it can put the trans into Limp Mode....so the vehicle can be "limped" to a repair shop. When in Limp Mode, the PCM cuts off electrical power to the trans. When the trans has no electricity supplied to it, the trans will default to 3rd gear, with the shifter in OD mode. There's more to it, but I'll spare you the details. Do you have a check engine light? Have you pulled codes?
That is a bummer about the new one. But, good eye!! When little details, like this one, get overlooked, headaches occur. You did good... Ideally, get a new replacement O-ring. If there ends up being a problem with the used O-ring, down the road, it will cause torque converter issues. And replacing an old O-ring, at a later date, will require trans removal. However, if getting a new O-ring is not an option (due to a time constraint), if it were me, I would have to reuse the old one (Pliable with no cuts/tears) over installing a damaged one. There are two(2) different O-ring sizes, depending on which input shaft your 4L60E is equipped with: 298mm converter/shaft VS 300mm converter/shaft. 298mm Shaft: 93-97 300mm Shaft: 98-14 Short Video about your question and 298mm VS 300mm: ua-cam.com/video/287UVcwDgHo/v-deo.html 4L60E Input Shaft O-Rings: ***Paid Links*** 298mm: amzn.to/3CmjHsP 300mm: amzn.to/2ZrGFA0 Ebay: ebay.us/h7lpLB DISCLOSURE: 🕵 As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Some, if not all, of the links contained in this video description are affiliate links. This means that, at no additional cost to you, I will receive a small commission on any purchases you make through the website links provided above.
@@SouthpawAutoworks @Southpaw Autoworks thanks man, you are top three transmission guys I've found regarding knowledge an inner workings. After watching 5 of your vids, I never knew you had an arm missing until this video, warrior!
@@SouthpawAutoworks I went to a shop an got a new one, I called on the phone and he said it would be $5 which was fine with me since everywhere else was about the same, when I got there he gave it to me for free. An this time when I put it on I lubricated I very well, Last time I think I damage it by not keeping the converter level an not going slow pushing it in.
Unfortunately, the '95 4L60E is a standalone year. In other words, it doesn't interchange with any other years of 4L60E. The wiring harness, among other things, are different than earlier/later versions. On a positive note, parts can be swapped, in order to make another year 4L60E work in a '95 application. There are different sized bell housings (and bell housings designs), depending on year/engine size/etc. Also different torque converters, pumps, etc. I'd like to put together a video on each of these subjects, when time permits.
Hello Robert, I hope all is well my friend. I don’t expect you to remember me, but this is Vic, I messaged you about a 4l60e father and son project on my son’s 2006 Trailblazer 4.2. I purchased 2 books and watch your videos and I can’t figure out what I did wrong. I I can get the torque converter to spin freely on the input shaft, it binds and only rotates about 2 to 3 inches in both directions (clockwise and counter clockwise). I’ve installed and replaced many transmission in the past and this was never a problem. My question to you is, what could’ve I donee wrong to cause the converter binding. I’m so embarrassed and defeated by this build and I feel like I let my son down. Any help you can provide will be greatly appreciated. Please let me know what I need to double check to make this right. Thanks Robert, have an awesome evening my friend
Hi Vic, This rings a bell (father son project). That's awesome, BTW. Bummer about the setback. I can totally relate... Can you share more about the problem? Is the trans still on the bench, or installed in the vehicle? Are you using a new converter? Reusing the old converter? Were any of the pump components replaced? (new pump cover, new pump body, etc) When overhauling the pump, after you reassembled it did you verify that the pump internals were free to rotate? If so, what method did you use to verify this?
Hi, thank you for the informative video... I am busy building my '93 4L60e... Actually, the casting date say 92... Will you post a video where you assemble the Box? If not, When I striped my 3-4 Stack, I found that there were no Load Release Springs in the 4th Gear assembly... Is that okay? My Workshop manual says it has to be there (in all goxes since 1988) I would appreceate if you could help. I am in Germany and it look like the people here have no idea...
We plan on doing a complete rebuild series on the 4L60E. However, we're currently busy working on a TH400 video series. TH400 Rebuild Series - Coming Soon ua-cam.com/video/q0eciXU8YEI/v-deo.html To answer your question... I always install them (stock build). I know some builders will throw them out during the rebuild. However, I was trained to use those springs. It's my understanding that those springs are used to help keep the 3-4 Clutch off, when the trans is in 1st and 2nd gear. When the engine revs high enough in 1st or 2nd gear, the Input Drum will also spin fast. The residual oil located in the drum (right near the 3-4 Clutch piston) will grow "taller" (due to centrifugal force) and start to push on the 3-4 Clutch piston. The theory is, the 3-4 Clutch will not fully apply...however, it'll drag a little. This dragging builds heat and burns up the clutch pack, over time. Like I said, some people throw them in the trash...I happen to use them. To each their own.
Glad you found the problem. Did your trans not have forward movement, with the shifter in D? These videos (listed below) are not specifically about the Input Sprag. However, you can learn more about what they do...as they are mentioned in both videos. 4L60E Power Flow (1st, 2nd, 3rd, & 4th Gear): ua-cam.com/video/IfOqbTqKubE/v-deo.html 4L60E Power Flow - Manual 1st, Manual 2nd, & Manual 3rd: ua-cam.com/video/6kfAuXJFYFE/v-deo.html
@@SouthpawAutoworks Thats the weird thing, it would run fine, but as soon as I would go uphill and she would gear back from 4th to 3rd, but then it'll be like neutral and the engine revs up. I thought it would be the 3-4 piston or clutches, but these still look okay, but I'm changing them in any case.
Thank you for being here!
If it feels right to you, help me spread the word about this channel…
1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder (60 sec): ua-cam.com/video/ZQHtrVFUHdk/v-deo.html
What if you do not have any play in the input shaft?
Thank you, excellent instruction!
The first person to make a transmission work was a damn genius
Modern marvel
I've watched several 4L60E disasssembly videos, and yours is by far the best. You and your cameraman deserve kudos for filming things in a way that shows good detail of what you're doing. Starting with clean parts and moving slowly through the process makes a lot of difference to those of us who don't do this every day. Besides being a good mechanic, you're also a good teacher!
I think I have the courage to delve into my tranny now! I have little doubt that I'll find a broken sun shell. (no reverse, no second or fourth gear.)
Kudos also to your parents and whomever else helped you in your youth to overcome your deformity. I wish my aunt and uncle had done the same. After too much coddling, my cousin doesn't use his "stump" nearly as effortlessly as you appear to do. Thalidomide be damned!
Sounds like you're on the right track (sun shell).
Thanks for dropping me a line!
Bro mad respect for doing this one armed. I've no excuse now. I should be working on my car and doing the trans myself. You've convinced me and your videos are giving me the knowledge I was struggling to find elsewhere. Your a legend man, can't wait to watch the rest of these videos and have you with me pulling mine apart.
I have never seen someone work as smart as you do. Your attention to detail is second to none. My 4l60e lost 3rd gear and you have inspired me to take it on myself… Great video as always, thank you!
That's very kind of you to say.
Taking it on yourself...right on!
This has got to be the BEST UA-cam Vid I've ever seen!!! You set the bar, Brother, no matter the subject matter, this is how it should be done, and your demeanor is what others should emmulate. You should be a Platinum UA-camr!!!! Thanks for all that you do!
Wow, thanks!
Appreciate the sub and the support.
I actually started watching another guy although he was very descriptive in the beginning he slacked off towards the end luckily I found this video and was able to complete the tear down this is my first transmission rebuild
Glad you found this video helpful.
I am so glad I found your channel. It inspired me to tear down my transmission and repair and upgrade myself. Saving me thousands of dollars.
Right on! That's awesome!
Appreciate you taking the time to drop me a line.
Happy building.
AWESOME video. I have looked all over youtube for a tear down of a 1993 like mine. This is the first. Tank you very much.
Right on! Glad you enjoyed it.
Thanks for dropping me a line!
Have a great weekend.
Hey Robert....I'm enjoying your videos on the 4L60. I took an automatic trans class around 20 years ago. I love doing maintenance and repairs on the side for my friends and family as well as the occasional buy and flip. I have an 05 Yukon XL 1500 that rolled in the shop. It's pretty evident to me based off the symptoms that the 3-4 clutch pack is burnt. I look forward to supporting you by buying the products / tools you're recommending. Before I just yank it and rebuild it, I want to make sure there's no other issues to address. What bothers me is that it doesn't shift out of 1st gear on it's own when in drive. If I move the shifter into L2 it will go from 1-2 normally. When I move it to L3 the engine freewheels. The trans had been regularly serviced every 30K. When it failed it was pulling a heavier camper on a long trip. The dash indicated a trans temp warning and that's when this all started. Any help pointing me in the right direction for diagnosis would be appreciated. There are no DTC's currently on the computer.
The endplay measurement information was great information alone. I have watched many videos on the 4l60. Yours are outstanding.👍
Glad you're getting something of value out of the videos.
Thanks for dropping me a line.
Best channel on transmissions. Love it. Only thing I'd love more is you guys living next door so we could work on cars and have fun street rodding
And dont forget grilling food and drinking cold snacks...
I've been wanting to learn how to do this so bad and this makes it so much easier then reading a book with no pictures 😂
Very well organized, easy to follow, and clearly explained. Great job.!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I just noticed the guy only had 1 hand! It’s encouraging because if you have two hands you don’t fix your transmission, you should lean from this guy.
I'm on a mission to get more people involved with automatic transmissions. People are intimidated by these things...and I want to change that. If it's possible for a Southpaw, then it's possible for anyone.
If you're interested in helping me spread the word...
1 Handed Automatic Transmission Builder: (60-Second Preview)
ua-cam.com/video/y3Vixa_Ec1E/v-deo.html
Thanks for dropping me a line, 250GT Skyline.
Excellent video.
Thanks for dropping me a line!
You helped me through the entire process. Thank you!
Right on!
Very interesting videos, and certainly make you appreciate the complexity of an automatic transmission. Would like to see some videos on diagnosing transmission problems.
It's crazy that people conjured up these modern marvels.
Diagnosis videos are definitely a part of the game plan.
I was very impressed by your videos, very thorough, and the rate at which you worked certainly made me think you know transmissions backward and forward. I, personally would love to see you do a transmission diagnostic video. For those of us who don't, at this point, plan to rebuild a transmission we sure would appreciate information as to how they go wrong and what the symptoms represent. Thanks for the great stuff. JackN
@@SouthpawAutoworks
Thank you
You're welcome.
Thanks for dropping me a line!
Great video man,thanks for sharing your knowledge...
Thanks for watching, and for dropping me a line!
Really appreciate your wisdom, I'm slowly learning 😊 Thanky bunches
Right on. You bet!
U are a good teacher man....
The positive feedback is appreciated.
@@SouthpawAutoworks man I need you to be my teacher.....
My 4L65e has a pressed on Rear Ring Gear onto the 4Wheel Drive Tail Shaft. I successfully pressed it off, but now trying to get the 2 Wheel Drive Tail Shaft pressed into the Rear Ring Gear is a real problem. Because the tail shaft has the speedometer gear, it is larger than than the opening of the case. So I guess I have to make a jig to hold the case and ring gear while I press in the tail shaft. What a pain! Thanks for your informative videos.
If the ring gear has the dimples, then getting the shaft back through the ring gear will require a little persuasion.
If it were me... (disclaimer: do what I do at your own risk)
I'd stack in the rear guts, all the way up to the Center Support (install rear ring gear, rear planet, etc, etc, and ultimately install center support). Install the large yellow snap ring, that retains the Center Support inside of the trans case. Now, the Center Support provides a surface to work against. Gently install the output shaft, lining up the splines. When I encounter the press-fit, I use the bottom of my hammer handle (rubber coated), and strike the rear of the output shaft. Shouldn't take much effort to install it.
Hope this helps.
@@SouthpawAutoworks thanks very much for your advice. I appreciate your comments and enjoy your videos. You explain things in detail when many guys just breeze over the important things. I'll try reassembly using your advice.Thanks
12:27 mark one more clip down to the Abyss.
Great tool your video!!!! Thanks free tools of the upmost detailed right on video!!!!!
Glad it was helpful!
very educative.thank you regards
Great sir thanks
Right on.
Thanks for dropping me a line!
Great video, and thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Appreciate you dropping me a line.
Excellent Work
Many thanks.
Excellent work folks. Thanks for the much needed info! 💪🔥
Appreciate your comment.
Very good video! ... Thanks for sharing...
Your positive feedback is appreciated.
Thanks for dropping me a line.
Saludos desde Puerto Rico 🙋🏻♂️💯
Thanks for dropping me a line.
Love your videos!
Learning a ton!
Keep up the amazing work!
Awesome, thank you!
Thanks for sharing.
You bet.
Dude.... so good....do you have a "sequel" on rebuilding a 4L60E... mine is 2004
The positive feedback is appreciated.
No sequel, at this point in time. But, it's just a matter of time before a build series is put together.
Currently working on other 4L60E videos.
Thanks for dropping me a line.
Hey i liked this video you are good working on transmisions with one hand keep up the good work i would love for for you to repair my geo metro 1993 automatice transmision good vidoes
Glad you enjoyed it.
Thanks for dropping me a line!
Nice 👍 work. Do you have any rebuild Transmission for 2007 Yukon SLE RWD.
Yukon transmission for sale? No.
Southpaw Autoworks is all about teaching people how to fix/rebuild/upgrade their own transmission.
1 Handed Automatic Transmission Builder: (60-Second Preview)
ua-cam.com/video/y3Vixa_Ec1E/v-deo.html
Thanks for dropping me a line, OBINHO JUVE.
Hello, I bought a rebuild kit for my 96 4l60e, where do i place the ball bearings that go under the valvebody
/
I lost gear 3&4 in my 07Avalanch, so I had transmission rebuilt. Truck drove fine for 2 months then lost 4th again and then it wouldn't come out of 1st. Transmission shop say they can find anything wrong with the transmission. had engine check and its good..... What could it be?
What is your recommended clearance for the 3-4 clutch pack?
could you make a rebuild video for this style of the 4l60e
I plan on doing that, as time permits.
I just removed a 4l60e from my brother's 4wd 2001 Chevy Silverado. Have been unable to locate a reman. They ask for code I found 3kcd, they said that's not it. Then I found gmpt 4l60e, still nothing. I'm thinking of attempting a rebuild.
Who do you purchase your rebuild kits from?
Love u dear
I see you didnt remove the last part(reverse piston?). Is this because they are not removed typically or is it because of the tooling needed or another reason?
It's simply due to habit...
When I was wrenching for a transmission shop, I would only tear the unit down far enough to look at all of the usual suspects. After the inspection was complete, a parts list was put together. The service-writer would use my parts list to put together an estimate for the customer. The customer would either give us the green light...or look into other options.
So, during a teardown, there was no need to remove the Low-Reverse piston....not until I knew that we were moving forward with the rebuild/repair. Removing the piston before then, could potentially result in time wasted...and time is money.
To answer your question...
For a rebuild, the Low-Reverse piston must be removed. It has three (3) seals on it, that must be replaced. Plus, the piston must be removed in order to clean the piston, and clean the transmission case.
For the sake of these videos, I really need to be showing the piston removal, during teardown.
Thank you for pointing this out. Much appreciated.
Cant find the other video going thru the parts, im rebuilding a 93 for the first time
I have not made the other videos, yet.
1st 4L60E? Right on! That's exciting!
Just now got the time and parts to reassemble it, wish me luck
One question, the TCC Solenoid used a small check ball? I think one came out of the snout of the tcc@@SouthpawAutoworks
If we're talking about a 0.250" check-ball......
That's something that some builders would do on a 700-R4. It's not necessary on the 4L60E.
If you don't already know, the 4L60E is the successor to the 700-R4 (also known as the 4L60...no E).
The early 4L60E (93-94) uses a nearly identical pump to the 700-R4.
The 700-R4 is controlled by a cable (connected to the carburetor) and a governor (driven by wheel speed). This trans lived in the days before computer controls.
Even though there was no computer, the trans, however, did still need electricity....in order to operate the TCC solenoid. Under the right conditions, a pressure switch, located on the VB (valve-body), would create a path to ground, for the TCC Solenoid circuit...which would turn on the solenoid...which causes oil to flow in a different direction inside the converter...which causes the TCC to engage.
If someone didn't want to run a power wire to the trans, but still wanted the TCC to work, this is where the check-ball located in the snout comes into the picture. It's not perfect (it has a drawback), but it is a solution.
If we're talking about a check-ball that's much smaller than 0.250"....
It could've been the check-ball located inside of the TCC Solenoid. It's not supposed to come out.
If you're interested in learning about how the 4L60E On/Off solenoids work...
4L60E Shift Solenoid - Part 1 (Basic Operation)
ua-cam.com/video/FaChWmcsAgI/v-deo.html
Note: Both shift solenoids, and the TCC Solenoid, are On/Off solenoids. PWM solenoids are a different animal.
Mine its a 94 On/Off the year pre PWM
Yea its a smaller check ball like 3/16 I didnt exactly know where it came but asking some people told me that the only place it couldve come off was the TCC, so this means I need a new TCC Solenoid@@SouthpawAutoworks
Glad you got to the bottom of it.
Wishing you the best on your build.
Is it possible to just put in rental lt input drum and new band get out without disturbing to much
Input drum
I believe that you're asking...is it possible to replace a worn out band, and an Input Drum that has worn out clutches, with a new band and a new Input Drum (that already has new clutches installed)?
It is possible to do this, and not have to remove everything else from inside the trans. This can even be done without removing the VB (valve-body). However..........
If your trans has a band and some clutches that are smoked, there's a reason that they're smoked.
If we simply replace old clutches with new ones, I imagine that it will get the trans/vehicle back on the road. But, it probably won't be long before the new clutches are smoked again (this applies to the band, too).
If we want to do the job once, and be done with it, then it's important to identify why the clutches failed in the first place (root cause of failure). Could be caused by a number of things inside the trans, and even outside the trans. A video topic for another time.
My brother bought a trans off a guy for his 94 chevy k1500 4wd..guy said he had rebuilt it. It's the 4L60e Trans. The trans will go in all gears and move in every gear. The problem is in overdrive,3, or 2 it stays in one gear and doesn't shift. If you put trans in low gear it will shift while driving and as soon as you let off the throttle it will down shift really fast....if your going fast enough it will slide the rear tires. Any idea what may be the issue?
It sounds like the transmission is in "Limp Mode."
If the PCM (computer) detects a transmission problem, it can put the trans into Limp Mode....so the vehicle can be "limped" to a repair shop.
When in Limp Mode, the PCM cuts off electrical power to the trans. When the trans has no electricity supplied to it, the trans will default to 3rd gear, with the shifter in OD mode. There's more to it, but I'll spare you the details.
Do you have a check engine light?
Have you pulled codes?
My new input shaft o-ring has a slight surface tear, should I get a new one or reuse the original that has no tear an looks good an not hard?
That is a bummer about the new one. But, good eye!! When little details, like this one, get overlooked, headaches occur. You did good...
Ideally, get a new replacement O-ring. If there ends up being a problem with the used O-ring, down the road, it will cause torque converter issues. And replacing an old O-ring, at a later date, will require trans removal. However, if getting a new O-ring is not an option (due to a time constraint), if it were me, I would have to reuse the old one (Pliable with no cuts/tears) over installing a damaged one.
There are two(2) different O-ring sizes, depending on which input shaft your 4L60E is equipped with: 298mm converter/shaft VS 300mm converter/shaft.
298mm Shaft: 93-97
300mm Shaft: 98-14
Short Video about your question and 298mm VS 300mm: ua-cam.com/video/287UVcwDgHo/v-deo.html
4L60E Input Shaft O-Rings: ***Paid Links***
298mm: amzn.to/3CmjHsP
300mm: amzn.to/2ZrGFA0
Ebay: ebay.us/h7lpLB
DISCLOSURE: 🕵
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Some, if not all, of the links contained in this video description are affiliate links. This means that, at no additional cost to you, I will receive a small commission on any purchases you make through the website links provided above.
@@SouthpawAutoworks @Southpaw Autoworks thanks man, you are top three transmission guys I've found regarding knowledge an inner workings. After watching 5 of your vids, I never knew you had an arm missing until this video, warrior!
Right on! Thanks for watching.
Dude, that's too funny.
@@SouthpawAutoworks I went to a shop an got a new one, I called on the phone and he said it would be $5 which was fine with me since everywhere else was about the same, when I got there he gave it to me for free. An this time when I put it on I lubricated I very well, Last time I think I damage it by not keeping the converter level an not going slow pushing it in.
Dude, that's awesome! Really glad to hear that.
Right on.
Will a 97 s10 blazer tranny work on a 95 suburban? Both 4x4
Unfortunately, the '95 4L60E is a standalone year. In other words, it doesn't interchange with any other years of 4L60E.
The wiring harness, among other things, are different than earlier/later versions.
On a positive note, parts can be swapped, in order to make another year 4L60E work in a '95 application.
There are different sized bell housings (and bell housings designs), depending on year/engine size/etc. Also different torque converters, pumps, etc.
I'd like to put together a video on each of these subjects, when time permits.
Hello Robert, I hope all is well my friend. I don’t expect you to remember me, but this is Vic, I messaged you about a 4l60e father and son project on my son’s 2006 Trailblazer 4.2. I purchased 2 books and watch your videos and I can’t figure out what I did wrong. I I can get the torque converter to spin freely on the input shaft, it binds and only rotates about 2 to 3 inches in both directions (clockwise and counter clockwise). I’ve installed and replaced many transmission in the past and this was never a problem. My question to you is, what could’ve I donee wrong to cause the converter binding. I’m so embarrassed and defeated by this build and I feel like I let my son down. Any help you can provide will be greatly appreciated. Please let me know what I need to double check to make this right. Thanks Robert, have an awesome evening my friend
Hi Vic,
This rings a bell (father son project). That's awesome, BTW.
Bummer about the setback. I can totally relate...
Can you share more about the problem?
Is the trans still on the bench, or installed in the vehicle?
Are you using a new converter? Reusing the old converter?
Were any of the pump components replaced? (new pump cover, new pump body, etc)
When overhauling the pump, after you reassembled it did you verify that the pump internals were free to rotate? If so, what method did you use to verify this?
Please pro box car gearbox dis assembly and assembly
Do you mean a 4L60E built for racing?
Or do you mean something else?
Hi, thank you for the informative video... I am busy building my '93 4L60e... Actually, the casting date say 92... Will you post a video where you assemble the Box? If not, When I striped my 3-4 Stack, I found that there were no Load Release Springs in the 4th Gear assembly... Is that okay? My Workshop manual says it has to be there (in all goxes since 1988) I would appreceate if you could help. I am in Germany and it look like the people here have no idea...
We plan on doing a complete rebuild series on the 4L60E. However, we're currently busy working on a TH400 video series.
TH400 Rebuild Series - Coming Soon
ua-cam.com/video/q0eciXU8YEI/v-deo.html
To answer your question...
I always install them (stock build).
I know some builders will throw them out during the rebuild. However, I was trained to use those springs. It's my understanding that those springs are used to help keep the 3-4 Clutch off, when the trans is in 1st and 2nd gear.
When the engine revs high enough in 1st or 2nd gear, the Input Drum will also spin fast. The residual oil located in the drum (right near the 3-4 Clutch piston) will grow "taller" (due to centrifugal force) and start to push on the 3-4 Clutch piston. The theory is, the 3-4 Clutch will not fully apply...however, it'll drag a little. This dragging builds heat and burns up the clutch pack, over time.
Like I said, some people throw them in the trash...I happen to use them. To each their own.
@@SouthpawAutoworks Hi, thank you very much for the answer, I will order these springs 🙂👍
@@SouthpawAutoworks I have found the major problem on my Box... the Sprag assembly is completely stuffed...
Glad you found the problem.
Did your trans not have forward movement, with the shifter in D?
These videos (listed below) are not specifically about the Input Sprag. However, you can learn more about what they do...as they are mentioned in both videos.
4L60E Power Flow (1st, 2nd, 3rd, & 4th Gear):
ua-cam.com/video/IfOqbTqKubE/v-deo.html
4L60E Power Flow - Manual 1st, Manual 2nd, & Manual 3rd:
ua-cam.com/video/6kfAuXJFYFE/v-deo.html
@@SouthpawAutoworks Thats the weird thing, it would run fine, but as soon as I would go uphill and she would gear back from 4th to 3rd, but then it'll be like neutral and the engine revs up. I thought it would be the 3-4 piston or clutches, but these still look okay, but I'm changing them in any case.
Which one is your free hand 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣