Didn't see it mentioned in the video of any of the comments but, once you've cut those test pieces and have the exact set up, keep your final test pieces to use as your set up gauges for future setups.
Thank you for the video I've been a woodworker,cabinetmaker for 39 years,I used the lock miter set up on a shaper in a cabinet shop when I first started but never on my own and I set up in a router table like yours,thank you for the information you provided, wasn't sure about set up but knew what the results were when set up right.thank you again.
Great video. FYI Infinity makes a lock miter master gauge that makes that setup 10x easier. I also find that measuring the stock thickness with your vernier calipers and dividing to get your center then using the depth gauge on the back of your calipers to set your marking wheel to perfect center makes marking your stock center line dead nuts perfect within thousandths of an inch.
Pure Gold for checking your adjustments when setting it up. Saving a lot of wear and tear by not cutting longer pieces before checking it. Most of the other video's cut the pieces way longer before they checking it.
@@Selandry1 it took me a couple of attempts on the height due to going + instead of - ! This bit needs your table to be 100%, so it took me a couple of hours to clean/adjust/improve my table and make a jig to hold drawers rails vertical. My table is now much better for it, and it i now get repeatable results. I've had the bit in a couple of times, and the bit just gets easier and easier to set :)
@@bigal5437 I’m glad the video helped you. Sounds like your router table needed a tune up to use this bit and now you can benefit from the improvements to your equipment from this learning. I’m glad this helped you to get there!!!
I have watched a number of vids on this and yours seem to be the one I want to follow. One thing for sure is that it is not as easy as it looks. Thanks for your video.
i watched your video about setting up this lock miter joint,,an it was unbelievable,,i got it on the first try,,lol,,my head swelled up fit to bust,,,thank you so much,,,,
Congrats!! I think that video will be my greatest contribution to woodworking and I hope it will help many other woodworkers find a love and success for this bit. I love the lock miter joint! Thanks for the nice comment. I’m glad the video helped you do the same!
@@Selandry1 on facebook last night on wwgoa i showed everyone the picture of it and told them about your video,,,,so im sure alot will be watching it,,,it really was a great video,,,the best on you tube i think
Great video. I watched others and Rocklers but it just didn’t click. I cut up 6 foot of stock 2 inches at a time knowing sooner or later a light would go off in my head! Your video was easy to understand. Got it the first time I watched it. I was working with 1/2 stock. It says it will work down to 3/8 inch stock.
i honestly cant tell you how much i enjoyed your video,,i have had some many people asking me what video i watched,,i bet i have had a 100 people wanting to know,,,,but my question is,,,,building a box,,i see how you get the 4 sides,,,can you explain about the ends,,fitting it into the ends of the box,,i wish you would make another video showing this,,
How's she goin'? These are some good tips for setting up this bit. I would like to get one of these bits but I'm going to wait till I get a 1/2" router. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!!! Take care!!
Love to see the details on how to build a router fence like yours. All that fine adjustment looks like it would be very helpful. Did you make it yourself? Might you have a vid to show us perhaps please?
Bonjour et merci pour ce tuto ! Bien expliqué (malgré la barrière de la langue ) et cela va me servir , il faut prendre son temps pour appliquer les consignes !!👍👍merci!
Just bought one of the Freud lock miter bits. Now I know how to use it. Thanks. What kind of router do you use? I have a 2 1/4 hp rigid and I want to step up to a 3+ hp. I am leaning towards Triton.
Do you have a video or information on how to make a router table like you have? Also, it would be great if you could list the model/part number of the tools you use (e.g., marker guage, digital caliper). Thanks for all of your videos.
Sorry no plans for the router. And I’m not a very good youtuber with the links. You should check out my video on my favorite mobile tool base. It shows the router cabinet more closely.
Thanks again for your video! I just got my first bit like yours and it seems like they were taking out a lot of material and one pass. Do you go one pass or two somehow?
Yes you can with the bit are used in the video, but you would probably be better off getting a smaller size lock miter bit for half inch stock. I have three sizes of lock miter bits. I generally use the smaller one if I’m going to use half inch stock.
You are correct but it Only works if you are using the exact thickness stock. And so often it is not the exact thickness and that is where set up blocks let you down with this bit. Thanks for the comment.
would this be a good bit to use in making a shadow box ? 2ftx2ft Measurment. The bit would be cutting the end grain of the hard wood im using, so a am concerned about kick back, blow out or just complete utter failure. I'm using exotic hard wood.
Yah. You have to use a sled for that kind of project. I have another video on this exact subject. ua-cam.com/video/AijVPt9VFiM/v-deo.htmlsi=ylukmMAaM7k2kG6W This bit has a learning curve. Using zero clearance setup is key when using it on end grain. Hardest wood I ever used it on was Hickory and it worked great.
How do you safely cut the short ends of your stock, or the small square pieces of the piece you disassembled at the beginning of the video, when you need to run them vertically along the fence?
I usually make the fence zero clearance and make a jig. I made a video on the type of jig I use for the upright cuts. And I sneak up on it with the fence depth.
I would imagine Baltic Birch wood cut pretty good with the lock miter. Have not tried it But Baltic Birch behaves pretty much like hardwood in any application I have ever used it.
Now take that "perfectly" cut piece of wood, and use it for a template for that exact wood thickness - That's FAST and easy! Cudos to whomever I stole that idea from.. Always Listening.
Can't feel a millionth of an inch, so I think you might have been exaggerating. CAN feel a thousandth of an inch! Can visually pick out 1/200" or less if your eyes are good enough.
What you are calling the center of the bit is NOT the center of the bit. The true center of every lock miter router bit is the virtual intersection of the 45° cutting edge and the cutting edge on the underside of the protruding part. The most accurate, simplest, and quickest way of finding that point and using it for setup without needless messing around is to use the Infinity Lock Miter Master.
@@Selandry1 Regardless of whether the Lock Miter Master is better (it is!) you are still putting out wrong information! Can you use your method to make a lock miter joint in stock of unequal thickness, like a drawer box with 3/4" front and 1/2" sides?? I don't think so. It is simple with a LMM.
@@dfulf1 All well and good if you are using the EXACT same thickness wood. How often does that happen? That is the problem with set-up blocks, unless you mill your stock to the same thickness as the setup block, it is worthless.
This bit is flawed from the start. I simply don’t get why manufacturers are selling and people are buying it. For those who don’t have experience, it is very appealing (something to make stronger miter joints), but it is so problematic, it is simply not worth the effort. The problem is using one bit to perform both the horizontal and the vertical cuts. The idea was implemented for 22° cuts, but there they used a two bit set simplifying this nightmareish setup, There are other ways to reinforce miter joints, avoid this router bit!
@@dougcain2720 I studied this bit for a long time. I also bought 3 of them from different makers. The designers cut corners and decided to build two bits in one: one horizontal and one vertical. There is a similar bit set for 22°. That one comes in two bits. Both working horizontally. Much easier to adjust correctly. First thing they aren’t telling is that if you work with hardwoods, you won’t be able to cut it in one pass. Then you realize that your initial setup was pointless as you need to take two or three passes, each time moving the fence.
Get the Rockler bit. That’s all I have used and it is great. I seriously use it all the time and it’s still rocking. Currently have a waterfall edge walnut desk sitting in my shop with exposed lock miters! If you have not fallen in love with this joint it’s because you have not mastered the setup. That’s why I made the video. If you have given up I recommend going with a 45 degree with routed splines as an alternative.
Didn't see it mentioned in the video of any of the comments but, once you've cut those test pieces and have the exact set up, keep your final test pieces to use as your set up gauges for future setups.
Great advice,
I almost always plane my stock before using so they are never the same thickness.
Thank you for the video I've been a woodworker,cabinetmaker for 39 years,I used the lock miter set up on a shaper in a cabinet shop when I first started but never on my own and I set up in a router table like yours,thank you for the information you provided, wasn't sure about set up but knew what the results were when set up right.thank you again.
Great video. FYI Infinity makes a lock miter master gauge that makes that setup 10x easier. I also find that measuring the stock thickness with your vernier calipers and dividing to get your center then using the depth gauge on the back of your calipers to set your marking wheel to perfect center makes marking your stock center line dead nuts perfect within thousandths of an inch.
Pure Gold for checking your adjustments when setting it up. Saving a lot of wear and tear by not cutting longer pieces before checking it. Most of the other video's cut the pieces way longer before they checking it.
You obviously pay attention to fine details. Thanks for the comment and I do appreciate it. Precisely what I meant to do with this video.
I wish you kept making videos cause this one was perfect and very simple to follow.
just been trying to setup a bit for the first time. gave up and searched UA-cam for a great tutorial and found one. many thanks :)
Let me know how it goes. I have had a number of people report that they got it the first time. Good luck!
@@Selandry1 it took me a couple of attempts on the height due to going + instead of - ! This bit needs your table to be 100%, so it took me a couple of hours to clean/adjust/improve my table and make a jig to hold drawers rails vertical. My table is now much better for it, and it i now get repeatable results. I've had the bit in a couple of times, and the bit just gets easier and easier to set :)
@@bigal5437 I’m glad the video helped you. Sounds like your router table needed a tune up to use this bit and now you can benefit from the improvements to your equipment from this learning. I’m glad this helped you to get there!!!
Excellent video with understandable, step by step instructions - Thank you!!
Your welcome.
I have watched a number of vids on this and yours seem to be the one I want to follow. One thing for sure is that it is not as easy as it looks. Thanks for your video.
This method works well. Thank you do much
i watched your video about setting up this lock miter joint,,an it was unbelievable,,i got it on the first try,,lol,,my head swelled up fit to bust,,,thank you so much,,,,
Congrats!! I think that video will be my greatest contribution to woodworking and I hope it will help many other woodworkers find a love and success for this bit. I love the lock miter joint! Thanks for the nice comment. I’m glad the video helped you do the same!
@@Selandry1 on facebook last night on wwgoa i showed everyone the picture of it and told them about your video,,,,so im sure alot will be watching it,,,it really was a great video,,,the best on you tube i think
Yet again one of the greatest pieces of content I’ve ever seen! Keep up the great work and you’ll be at 1 million subscribers in no time.
I like this technique! good job
Great video. I watched others and Rocklers but it just didn’t click. I cut up 6 foot of stock 2 inches at a time knowing sooner or later a light would go off in my head! Your video was easy to understand. Got it the first time I watched it. I was working with 1/2 stock. It says it will work down to 3/8 inch stock.
i honestly cant tell you how much i enjoyed your video,,i have had some many people asking me what video i watched,,i bet i have had a 100 people wanting to know,,,,but my question is,,,,building a box,,i see how you get the 4 sides,,,can you explain about the ends,,fitting it into the ends of the box,,i wish you would make another video showing this,,
That would take a video to show you. If you play around with the bit you will learn how. Glad the video helped you.
"A millionth of an inch"... that was funny! Good video!
Thank you for taking the time to produce a great video tutorial on setting up a lock miter bit.
Really great video to set up the lock miter bit :) Managed it on the second try to get perfect result, so this video was a great help :)
Glad it helped. Thanks for the comment.
Just set mine up. And you are right. I got it first try. Thank you sir.
That’s awesome to hear! I have been using this bit on the regular for 15 years plus and only recently got to that level.
Walnut Workshop I really do appreciate your knowledge, and the time and effort you have put into making a video. Thanks again
Method worked great, thanx for the video
How's she goin'? These are some good tips for setting up this bit. I would like to get one of these bits but I'm going to wait till I get a 1/2" router. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!!! Take care!!
Love to see the details on how to build a router fence like yours. All that fine adjustment looks like it would be very helpful. Did you make it yourself? Might you have a vid to show us perhaps please?
Thank you!💜
Great video. Thanks for sharing
You bet
Great explanation
EXCELLENT explanation and examples
Glad you liked it!
Bonjour et merci pour ce tuto ! Bien expliqué (malgré la barrière de la langue ) et cela va me servir , il faut prendre son temps pour appliquer les consignes !!👍👍merci!
🇫🇷👍
Thank doc!
Très bonne information , merci !
Just bought one of the Freud lock miter bits. Now I know how to use it. Thanks. What kind of router do you use? I have a 2 1/4 hp rigid and I want to step up to a 3+ hp. I am leaning towards Triton.
I use the Porter Cable 3 1/4 hp router. Thanks for the comment.
Do you have a video or information on how to make a router table like you have? Also, it would be great if you could list the model/part number of the tools you use (e.g., marker guage, digital caliper).
Thanks for all of your videos.
Sorry no plans for the router. And I’m not a very good youtuber with the links. You should check out my video on my favorite mobile tool base. It shows the router cabinet more closely.
Could you make a video using the locking miter needle post with a top cap?
Thanks again for your video! I just got my first bit like yours and it seems like they were taking out a lot of material and one pass. Do you go one pass or two somehow?
Usually 2 passes with harder woods. Softer woods need only one pass.
Thanks for the video; very helpful! I'm new to using a router table. Can I make lock miters on 1/2" thick walnut stock? Thanks again!
Yes you can with the bit are used in the video, but you would probably be better off getting a smaller size lock miter bit for half inch stock. I have three sizes of lock miter bits. I generally use the smaller one if I’m going to use half inch stock.
@@Selandry1 Thanks! I'll look for the correct size bit when I pick up my stock. Thanks again!
Would you use the locking miter for the top cap
Wow!
You could save those cutoffs and use them as a setup block for the next time with the same thickness board, correct?
You are correct but it Only works if you are using the exact thickness stock. And so often it is not the exact thickness and that is where set up blocks let you down with this bit. Thanks for the comment.
would this be a good bit to use in making a shadow box ? 2ftx2ft Measurment. The bit would be cutting the end grain of the hard wood im using, so a am concerned about kick back, blow out or just complete utter failure. I'm using exotic hard wood.
Yah. You have to use a sled for that kind of project. I have another video on this exact subject. ua-cam.com/video/AijVPt9VFiM/v-deo.htmlsi=ylukmMAaM7k2kG6W This bit has a learning curve. Using zero clearance setup is key when using it on end grain. Hardest wood I ever used it on was Hickory and it worked great.
Drop a comment on my coping sled video if that helps you.
Hey let us know how it worked out for you. Would love to hear about it.
What’s the minimal thickness that this will work? I was thinking of wrapping some outdoor post columns.
With my bit it is 1/2”. Thinner than that you will need a different bit size.
How about a 90 degree miter? Is it the same method?
How do you safely cut the short ends of your stock, or the small square pieces of the piece you disassembled at the beginning of the video, when you need to run them vertically along the fence?
I usually make the fence zero clearance and make a jig. I made a video on the type of jig I use for the upright cuts. And I sneak up on it with the fence depth.
@@Selandry1 Okay, thanks. Found that video and that's exactly what I was thinking of doing. Good to know that will work. Thanks!
Up bottom F should be align with wood center mark.. am i correct?
Can you cut cellular PVC with that bit? Like Azek
How well do these cut for plywood or baltic birch?
I would imagine Baltic Birch wood cut pretty good with the lock miter. Have not tried it But Baltic Birch behaves pretty much like hardwood in any application I have ever used it.
You got big fingers :) couldn't see much through them haha
Why no vertical cut to show the successful 90 degree joint?
I’ve looked and looked and I can’t find 5 pieces of wood on that post 😊
What RPM are you running with?
I don’t know. But I do slow it down a bit.
@@Selandry1 i think around 16,000 rpm :)
What router fence is that
Incra LS. It is awesome!
What you didn't show is how to make a 90 degree locking joint that you had to make for your fence.
My lock miter bit actually doesn't work at all like this even though the bit is the same configuration. Bummer. I thought I had the key! 🤣
Now take that "perfectly" cut piece of wood, and use it for a template for that exact wood thickness - That's FAST and easy! Cudos to whomever I stole that idea from.. Always Listening.
Problem with that approach is it’s difficult and it is only useful for one exact thickness is material.
Can't feel a millionth of an inch, so I think you might have been exaggerating. CAN feel a thousandth of an inch! Can visually pick out 1/200" or less if your eyes are good enough.
Jeez...that is NOT easy. Please edit your title. LOL...TOTALLY MESSING WITH YOU! Appreciate the lesson very much!
What you are calling the center of the bit is NOT the center of the bit. The true center of every lock miter router bit is the virtual intersection of the 45° cutting edge and the cutting edge on the underside of the protruding part. The most accurate, simplest, and quickest way of finding that point and using it for setup without needless messing around is to use the Infinity Lock Miter Master.
My method does away with any of that unnecessary stuff your trying to advertise. That’s the point. So post your commercial elsewhere please.
@@Selandry1 Regardless of whether the Lock Miter Master is better (it is!) you are still putting out wrong information! Can you use your method to make a lock miter joint in stock of unequal thickness, like a drawer box with 3/4" front and 1/2" sides?? I don't think so. It is simple with a LMM.
More than one way to slice an apple. I just like to do it this way.
@@IBOXPAPA Just use a previously cut piece (same thickness) as a template to set up the bit.
@@dfulf1 All well and good if you are using the EXACT same thickness wood. How often does that happen? That is the problem with set-up blocks, unless you mill your stock to the same thickness as the setup block, it is worthless.
This bit is flawed from the start. I simply don’t get why manufacturers are selling and people are buying it. For those who don’t have experience, it is very appealing (something to make stronger miter joints), but it is so problematic, it is simply not worth the effort. The problem is using one bit to perform both the horizontal and the vertical cuts.
The idea was implemented for 22° cuts, but there they used a two bit set simplifying this nightmareish setup, There are other ways to reinforce miter joints, avoid this router bit!
So, you haven't mastered the setup yet!
@@dougcain2720
I studied this bit for a long time. I also bought 3 of them from different makers. The designers cut corners and decided to build two bits in one: one horizontal and one vertical. There is a similar bit set for 22°. That one comes in two bits. Both working horizontally. Much easier to adjust correctly.
First thing they aren’t telling is that if you work with hardwoods, you won’t be able to cut it in one pass. Then you realize that your initial setup was pointless as you need to take two or three passes, each time moving the fence.
Get the Rockler bit. That’s all I have used and it is great. I seriously use it all the time and it’s still rocking. Currently have a waterfall edge walnut desk sitting in my shop with exposed lock miters! If you have not fallen in love with this joint it’s because you have not mastered the setup. That’s why I made the video. If you have given up I recommend going with a 45 degree with routed splines as an alternative.