Building The ULTIMATE HTPC! (Part 2)
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- Опубліковано 5 лют 2025
- Building The ULTIMATE HTPC! (Part 2)
I have finally moved forward with my HTPC build. I told you guys I would!
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Asus CROSSHAIR VI HERO ATX AM4 Motherboard - amzn.to/2tSemcW
AMD Ryzen 5 3600X 6-Core CPU - amzn.to/2JjUg28
Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory - amzn.to/2tScyk7
ASUS ROG STRIX GTX 1080 Ti - amzn.to/2qOELr1
Enermax DIGIFANLESS 80+ Platinum 550W Fanless Power Supply - amzn.to/2PSSzOt
NoFan CR-95C Fanless CPU Cooler (QuietPCUSA - not affiliated) - www.quietpcusa...
200pcs M3 Brass Standoff Assortment Kit - amzn.to/30zLGll
Drillpro 6pcs Combination 1/4" Hex Twist Tap Drill Bit Set - amzn.to/2LOXLiH
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I feel like I'm in purgatory and my punishment is never seeing a completed Paul HTPC build. But maybe that's the charm.
sure beats the uphill rolling rock or teasing grapes
I don't think I will live long enough to see this build completed. I'm 53😩
Bit easier than reaching lvl 60 in Wow classic then-Purgatory! ;-).
@@megatech1966 LOL I was wondering the same thing and Im 48 hahahaha
Paul, Re: - the brass inserts, when screwing into hardwood assuming the pilot hole is the correct size. Screw a pozi drive screw into them fully and drive them in with that that screws head it is much harder than the brass and will fit the screwdriver pozi drive tip far better. Also a tiny dot of beeswax on each insert will go a long way to reduce friction. Cheers ;)
Nailed it. Those slots are not string enough to work as demonstrated here. Also, I'm guessing that the holes were too small. Walnut is pretty hard, so you've gotta oversize them just a bit.
where do you find them? what are they called?
@@thephantomcomics - they're called "threaded inserts" - you can buy a variety of sizes (typically imperial, tho) at Home Depot - you'll find them in the Specialty Hardware drawers on the hardware/fastener aisle. If you want metric to use typical M3 standoffs, then McMaster Carr is the best option (for really any hard-er to find hardware) - www.mcmaster.com/95631a050 . Keep in mind that hardwoods (oak, maple, walnut, etc) and softwoods (pine, fir, plywood, etc) require different inserts. Order the right kind or you'll be fighting them like Paul did. Also, I can't emphasize enough that the slots on top are just for small adjustments - to install them, drive a suitably sized screw into them and use the head of that screw to drive them, since it will be hardened steel and not soft brass.
Yep. Here's how I insert those. ua-cam.com/video/mxytJJ2zEcM/v-deo.html ...granted a 3 mm fastener could sheer off easily so take it easy.
Or... you know... just do it the way you did it because it was simple, cheap, and it worked.
I would suggest a french cleat method over islets and hooks. The cleat will be secure on the studs and also be off the wall enough for wire management.
TY for the suggestion, I actually thought of this too midway through making this video but I decided to go with the hooks I had on hand. I think I will switch to a french cleat when I continue the project... soon 😉
i did that on my wall mounted PC, i just made the mistake to leave no space at the top of the Board the hardware is on for cablemanagement which makes that almost impossible (All IO goes up and down together behind the PC but now the Monitor Cables and and Excess USB cables from my VR sensors are Just sitting Clearly visible on top of the PC)
the french cleat method also has the advantage, that you can have it going all the way from side to side, not only where the studs are.
This was exactly my thought - I wasn't going to read through 600+ comments to see what was said about it, but here yours is right at the top. My concern about French cleats would be the possibility of the unit jumping off (in an earthquake), or getting knocked off from a hit from below, but there are simple ways to secure it in place instead of just leaving it floating.
@@paulshardware Try using a Heli-Coil in the wood. I am a Mechanic, and I use them all the time for thread repair, and for making threads in softer materials. The kits come with the Heli-Coils, drill bit, tap, and install tool. This will allow you to create metal threads in the wood, that you can then install your standoff's to. Much stronger, and less likely to damage the more fragile hardware. And use a little Teflon Tape on them, to keep them tight. Even if you don't use them in this build, keep them in mind for the future. Hope this helps.
Remember to tune in for part 3! (Expected spring of 2024.. ish)
Exactly i was looking for part 1 and couldnt find it anywhere and found out that crap was from 2017, like dude how are you gonna make parts of a video not a couple days, not a couple weeks, not a couple months, but freaking years apart....
@@KngKurd Yea, that requires some impressive planing...
Only 4 more years!
This must be an out of season april fools joke
So happy to see a glimpse of Hiro in this video. Hope he's been well lately! All the best to you and your family, Paul. Thanks for your awesome content!
Honestly I like the idea of going to ikea and buying some shelf’s and hardware to make a nice entertainment center. Then get some aluminum to build into the top of the center that basically covers the motherboards and io of all electronics. PS4 Xbox pc cable box Blu-ray etc. cut holes for all the io and make nice buttons for everything. Make it look slim and hidden away. Basically one large slim 1u sized box maybe 1.5u that houses all the components for your entertainment center.
This project began right around the same time I started my UA-cam channel. 😂 Glad to see it making a comeback Paul.
Another possible mounting solution for the wood itself, should you find the hooks/eyelets need to be replaced, is to take a 1x2 or other somewhat small piece of wood and then cut it in half at a 45 degree angle. From there, you attach one side to the wall and the other to the wood and you've got a very solid mounting surface that will not move easily. You can do an upper and lower rail for even more strength/stability.
Someday I'll be able to tell my kids that I was there when the HTPC build part 2 only had 300 views.
I remember when he first started this project. It was a simpler time. The world hadn't completely gone to shit, mainstream CPUs were stuck at 4 or 8 cores, and CaseLabs was still in business.
the only youtube build thats taking longer than jayz' post malone build.
Glad to see progress being made! Good work so far Paul!
Néed Lyle to help out 😅🍺
Finally part 2 😭 , please love everything good in this world . Paul If you going to release a part 3 please don't take 3 years.
I waited for this video for so long I never thought this would happen but here it is.
Paul's htpc PC part 2!
Thanks for the update Paul. I do feel a bit less stressed having something wall mounted. Every time I saw that htpc collecting dust in the corner in any of your videos, I died a little.
Friendly tip, add a tiny bit of Gorilla Glue on the end of the standoffs before screwing them in and it will ensure they stay in place. Bonus tip, pre-drill the holes for those bigger inserts slightly larger than you need so they don't have to create such deep threads in the wood and it is so much easier to screw them in. Also place a teeny tiny bit of Gorilla Glue on them before you screw them in to ensure thy don't float. Gorilla Glue will expand slightly as it hardens so it is great for wood as it will get into the pores and hold on super tight. I use it to hold super strong neodymium magnets in projects and you only need a small amount to create a super strong bond.
Yay! I lost count of how many times I saw that Y shaped piece of wood and wondered if Paul would ever go back to it and complete the HTPC dream... But today is the day! Mostly, I mean at least the system is functional!
I like it man! Really glad to see it come along. Cant wait for more home blogs! Really think after seeing this might try it myself.
8:30 - I don't know if that's the right screwdriver for the insert. Also, walnut is a hardwood, and those inserts may not be designed for hardwoods. Yes, there is a difference, and those inserts may be for pine and other soft woods. Also, what drillbit did the manufacturer suggest using. It's always best to check their instructions and not trying to eyeball it. (That's how you mess up wood projects.)
you are correct, large pitch is for softer woods/plywood. need a finer thread for a hard wood
I hope you made sure to discharge the capacitors on the psu when you were handling it. They carry a charge for a very long time and would give a very very nasty shock if you touched them on accident
Yeah for real, that section of the video really made me anxious
Me--Puts old computer in Living room, hooked into TV.
"Hey I've got an HTPC!"
Can't wait to see what you do to clean that up! That could be a seriously great piece of wall art if you can manage those cables in a way that looks good.
Looking good so far!!
A few suggestions for you to make it a little sleeker maybe?
For mounting the wood to the wall, look into a French clear system instead of those hangers. It would be direct to studs, give you the stand off you're looking for, and be MUCH more secure.
To route the cables, think about cutting the holes under the components so when you route the cables, they flow underneath to the back and you can see the holes from the front.
Also, where your PSU is and where you plan to put the other system, I would honestly take the slab to a furniture maker and ask him to put bowties in the cracks so they don't move and continue through the board as that could be enough to damage your components.
A few ideas but great work so far and looking forward to the next one!!
Paul great video. It looks like the wood you are mounting the PC to is a hard wood and the inserts are made for softer materials like MDF. They do work great for the right application and man the idea of using an M3 tap is great. Good job I can't wait to see what you come up with for the cable management.
Hey, when you drill holes through the wood for cable routing you might consider getting some "antique" bras insert rings todress up the holes ( they are standard furniture peices available at woodworking stores and maybe places like "raw" unfinished furniture stores.
I love this build ♡. Custom wood colored cables are next! Long live "Wood"! and puters...
If you are planning on doing the LED / ambient lighting behind the wood; get those lighting strips from either Phillips, Sengled, LIFX or even GE that you can control it externally rather than using the mobo's RGB settings. Might you that is just a suggestion Paul and you should make that call.
We are long overdue for a part 3. This wall mounted PC is really interesting, hope it gets a follow up.
For the little inserts, I have used them myself and there is a special tool to help avoid stripping them. That said they are brass so when going into hardwoods you're going to want to drill the hole oversized and maybe chamfer it.
Excellent clean system. I like the cable management. Sleeving looks nice. Also, i don`t recall seeing so compact HTPC build. The location of storage is optimal. I personally envy you for the tiny cooler. The open bench chassis is brilliant and I do recommend some marketing effort on your side, so you can put it in mass production.
"That is one of the Mearas, unless my eyes are cheated by some spell." "Shadowfax. He's the lord of all horses and he's been my friend through many dangers." - Lotr way of slipping in my surprise and delight to see this video as a notification.
As surprised and delighted to see one of the Mearas horses, so I too find myself delightfully surprised to see this video after a long wait. What better way to state that surprise, than quoting a very memorable LotR quote. Hope that explains it.
Hi Paul!
I do some work w/server administration and networking where we use pfsense, if you want some help on your fw....
I'd recommend the Supermicro X10SBA (non L if you use a regular sata drive instead of msata), 4 gigs of RAM (non-ECC) and the smallest or cheapest SSD you can find (we use 2nd hand 40-64GB, mostly Intel). The setup is fully passive, no moving parts whatsoever, the hardware fully supported by pfsense, is more than capable for this purpose and kind of just works...
Cheers and as always, great work
Kingdom Hearts: We take forever to make a sequel
Paul: Hold my hardware
For the brass inserts you could oversize the hole a bit because its hard wood and you can also screw a stronger maybe hex bolt into the insert threads and tighten it down with those. But as you have shown you can just tap directly into hard wood as long as you have enough thread.
WOW! ITS SOOOOOO BEAUTIFULL!
Excited to see what you do with the cable management, and the remainder of the wood!
Playing WoW Classic it looks like
Paul!! That looks so sick!! Such a beautiful piece of art bud. Thanks for the idea. I might have to do something like this with my Main Rig.
The best way to cover a hole in the wood is
block the area around the hole with painting tape
collect the wood dust from drilling
mix it with some wood glue
put the wood-glue gooey in the hole
let it dry
treat it with some sand paper and add some paint
That piece of wood looks so much better after the last bit of staining. Awesome. I don't know though, I kinda liked having something to "meme" about when commenting on your vids hehehe!!
I used to have a big HTPC in my living room, but I shifted over to using a NAS box running Plex to handle bulk media storage and HD Homerun Prime TV recordings and using a little Nvidia Shield TV box for playback and retro gaming emulation. I've also started messing around with GeForce Now streamed gaming and Steam's in-home streaming function to render games on my desktop machine downstairs but play them in the living room. I guess not having just one box for everything -- I also have a Sony UHD player for physical media -- is less convenient, but it's quieter, cooler, and there are no drive access lights blinking away (seriously, the lights on my old Fractal Design Node 304 case were bright enough to read by).
The best versions of those inserts that I have used have a hex key slot to drive them in. That said, walnut is plenty hard enough to use a tap like you did. The inserts are better for soft woods where a smaller screw might not grab well.
Paul, Linus had actually done a video linking MANY Pcie extensions. This is where he figured out that there was no loss of quality or latency until you use like 15 or more of them. May be something you might do to rout it behind the wood and back out to the GPU. Happy building!
Superb,the "World of Woodcraft" even(in tribute to the game running in BG)!
I see tons of potential here. The lighting is going to probably be the best part of the build aesthetically speaking IMO. Especially if its dreamcolor or some equivalent app controlled lighting system. I'm most interested in seeing the software setup for viewing shows and movies.
I find using a drill press for drilling the hardwood and putting some masking tape over the areas where chip outs could occur leaves a good result.
WOW! This is so much commitment for a wall mounted HTPC & a gorgeous concept!
This looks really great, the wood grain shines out nicely.
Wow this looks great so far. I’m actually looking forward to this build never being finished lol, every year we just get another little update. By then, it will be your daughter’s project.
That is an awesome idea. I now have the urge to build a new gaming PC to hook up to my tv in the living room....
I'm taking bets - which will come first, Intel desktop 10nm or HTPC Part 3?
Great job Paul! I'm personally most impressed by your measuring and hanging ability; that stuff always stresses me, and I tend to mess up somewhere along the way.
As for the VR stuff, do yourself a favor and invest in a Valve Index, if you haven't already. It's amazing and blows away the experience you get with the competition.
As for time spent in games that can suck you in, as you said, definitely be very careful to limit that and focus instead on what's actually important. :)
God bless! Thanks for all the great content!
Paul: Cannot play more WOW Classic tonight, need to be a father tonight.
Wife: Paul I got Chicken for Supper
Paul: Leeeeroy Jenkins!
Hey Paul, love the content. I would advise against mounting the pfSense router to the wall. As a key piece of network infrastructure, I think it makes more sense to have it in a rack or standalone for expandability options; interfacing with switches, WAPs, storage servers etc. Since the router hardware will "grow" with your network, you'll probably want the option to add/change things like interface cards for higher bandwidth connectivity and various other stuff going forward, which would be difficult with something like a wall-mount. Just my (not Jayz) two cents. Keep up the great work!
It's looking good.. You might want to get a piece of treated plywood (maybe 2) and cut them into roughly the shape of your walnut. Use these as templates or sort to figure out exactly how you want to mount everything. You can drill, cut, etc. as you like since it's just a piece of plywood, and that way anything that goes really wonky is no big deal. When you have it just right, transfer it to the pretty wood.
Very creative! I think once all the cables are managed it will look awesome!
I recommend that you drive threaded inserts in using a bolt/screw that fits into the insert. Counter-lock a pair of nuts onto the screw first so that you can later loosen the nuts to give yourself potentially needed slack to remove the bolt once the threaded insert is in place.
If you still have any of the sawdust from sanding kicking around, go save it right now. You can mix it with wood glue to make a color-matched wood filler for moments just like the failed threaded insert.
Wood expands and contracts across the grain with the weather: Keep all fasteners for the electronics lightly fastened to avoid physically stressing the computer hardware. I mean, even if it is fully tightened, it's probably fine, but why risk it?
...and I know I say this in every video where you even *think* about this htpc build, but PLEASE add bow-ties into the cracks that have developed in that board. Put them in the back of the board if you don't like the way they look. The cracks are already visibly worse and it'll make for a really bad day if the crack splits open up to the point of damaging your gear.
Man Paul, people complain about Jay taking a long time to do builds, but your the king of taking a long time
Turned out really nice! Well worth the wait.
Way to stay positive Paul. Persevere and over come. Glad to see you finally seeing the fruits of your labor. It is even more gorgeous than imaginable.
Part of the issue with the inserts is they are a brass insert going into a hard wood. These 2 things don't mixed really well, and I would have suggested going with the steel or stainless steel variant if you were at that stage still. The finished product looks great though. Great job as always Paul!
Officially consider this flac! :) Can't wait to see the next one and how it proceeds
Nice world of warcraft in the background! Game which pushed PC gaming to the majority of the public no doubt. Vanilla is coming back.
love your new car in the back ground , oh dont forget make it safe for your daughter , my great nephew crabs all my network cables and unplugs them, his 4 , so i have to sort it, great video Paul thanks
Mount it on the wall with french cleats. Basically rip cut a wide board with the saw at 45 degrees, mount one half to the wall, mount the other half to what you want to mount. might do two cleats for evenness.
Drill the hole out more and glue a dowel into it and flush cut it. Then re-stain. Because it'll be behind the motherboard, it won't be noticeable. The inserts were likely no good for hardwood, may work better with pine or sheet lumber.
this is CAKE !!! ... .I mean A lie !
I wonder if he referenced Portal or Minecraft.
Paul, i think you absolutely have to make some custom sleeving and custom length PSU cables for that build.
Also, that light trim should be either a smooth, faded white or orange, so as to provide some mood lighting and not intrude into the HT part of the PC
Great video and project Paul... I definitely like the idea of cable routing and eliminating the messy cables coming off the IO at the bottom.
WoW. I was wondering about that PC and was going to ask you about it. Glad an update was posted Paul. You are definitely good at doing home engineering.
HTPC Bulid!!!!! Best Birthday Gift Ever! Thanks Paul!!!!!
I love the HTPC videos! keep them coming
Hey Paul! Glad to see the HTPC coming along...! :)
However, imho, you should have mounted the mobo a bit up around the wedge of the V, that way you could have the disks mounted on the wood underneath the mobo as well.
guess we learned a valuable lesson here always test screws on a different peace of board than the one you plan to use, also that base spot above the GPU get 4-foot SATA cables and show off your storage.
EDIT: You can probably ignore my comment, lol. Because your final product looks really nice!! You could get some MDF board to make a cover for the wires and make it the same wallpaper as your living room. The shelves sound really cool. You should make a similar mount for your VR headset and stuff with a piece of wood like the HTPC. It looks very clean but I prefer it without the RGB because I think that will distract from the overall build unless it's a warm LED colour or something cozy. But I am sure you thought of something cool. Well done on getting one step closer to completion! You did a much better job then I could have.
It sounds janky but if you hold the PSU with velcro strips it is really strong stuff and can mount the PSU to the wood. That's a really nice piece you got there. A tip for the GPU is to use right angle aluminium brackets with screw holes in and you can screw them to the wood and the gpu at the same time. I made a wooden briefcase PC with a monitor vesa-mounted to the inside of the lid and this worked just fine and dandy though it was a much smaller 1050ti mini and later a 1060 3gb. Not much of an upgrade, lol. But for the purpose of the build it worked. I took the build with me all the way on the coach to Scotland and back to Devon and it somehow survived the trip in the UK. Haven't taken it abroad but I recently scrapped the build and transported the parts into a new case. For the standoffs you can get some threaded inserts from Amazon for dirt cheap and an insert gun thing like a nail gun. The insert gun sticks the threaded inserts into the wood and applies enough preassure so they are firmly planted. Then you can simply install the standoffs. Or you could use cable ties to hold down the mobo or right angle brackets might work. I saw some people simply use super long screws and hold the mobo down with washers or bolts down on the mobo end and the flat screw head is on the under side of the plank.
Very cool. I think this is going in a fantastic direction, love the finish on that slab.
Finally!!! More WoW Classic!! For those inserts, it's best to get steel instead of brass. You should also go a slightly oversized hole vs recommended in my experience to prevent that chipping and to allow ease of installation. I usually go up one size which still gives decent bite then put a small amount of glue on the threads to make sure they wont back out. Also helps to use a drill press or jig so the holes are perfectly straight.
Thanks Josh! Great suggestions
With those inserts, you either have to predrill a larger hole since oak is a hard wood or see if they sell a tap for them. However, since you went with the standoffs directly into the wood (with fine thread), you should probably ad some glue as a thread locker.
I've used those inserts before and had the same exact problem. I think you're tap bit solution works much better.
PNW SciTech a craftsmen should never blame his tools. Blame the person using them incorrectly
Love the psu mounting. Great idea!
Nice job! I thought it was going to be a shelf type setup but it looks awesome!
Alright - expecting part 3 in two years, where Paul will be talking about, how to change your HTPC hardware, due to age.
it looks good Paul, also l brackets are definetly a good thing to have when tackling projects like this. like for mounting a hdd or blueray drive, maybe even behind the board even. if your going to make pass through for cables, consider a router because with a nice sharp bit and the proper depth you can get nice clean holes that you could even glue grouments in if you wanted to. gorillia glue makes some good glue/epoxy for tackling mounting rubber to wood
Good advice, thanks Dennis!
The wood looks awesome on the wall. We're proud of you, Paul.
I didn't mean for that to rhyme.
These videos are so relaxing and chill, love em!
great vid paul keep up the great work see you in 2 years
Two options for fixing the hole from the threaded insert: buy a walnut dowel larger than that hole, drill out to fit the size of the dowel and plug it, but that's less desirable because then you'll have endgrain mismatched with the facegrain of the rest of the slab. What would be better would be to buy a plug cutter drill bit and an extra piece of walnut and cut your own plug from the facegrain of that board. (Titebond 3 wood glue works good for darker hardwoods like walnut)
Comment written before seeing your solution, which looks like it works good
I really like the fusion of wood and tech. Even my current rig has walnut wood grain theme :)
When you do drill through to route cables, perhaps install a rubber case grommet for them to pass through.
When you need to mound something heavy to a wall, consider using a French Cleat. It's easier to span joist and the weigh can be distributed better.
WoW rocking the HTPC!!!
Paul,
Huge fan. Love the channel. Recently built a Ryzen HTPC and have spent the last day or so getting everything setup. Would love to see more HTPC follow-up content, especially the software you run to manage your media now that you are no longer using Windows Media Center. Do you use Plex as a back-end on your NAS then Plex media player front-end on the actual HTPC? I’d love to see more on the software setup side!
Thanks!
Paul, those wires need to go in the wall! Needs to float, but that old school plaster wall is a pain to work with! At least your daughter drives a Tesla! Good on you teaching the next gen to go electric from day zero!
When someone does this kind of things (mod a pc) the cables are the worst to deal with, so i recommend make esome holes, to hide the cables, use some of double tape (i.e ssd) put the cables behind the wood, use a modular psu, the final product must be as clean as u can, else the work is anything but good
That thumbscrew insert was a smart move Paul! I would have taken a different approach but with a less desirable result.
Part 3 will come when Paul hits 5 million subscribers.
If the plan all along has been to drill or cut holes through the face of the board for better cable routing then it really would have helped plan where everything was going and get those holes drilled or cut before you went to all the trouble of putting that oil/stain on the wood and sanding it down. The holes you make now will kill that finish and you'll probably end up feeling compelled to redo it.
But I love the idea in general. Hopefully it will look great when all the cable routing is done. I'm sure it will.
There's a different type of insert, I have them, I will now try and remember what they are called. Anyway, same idea but they don't screw in. INstead they are castellated on the outside (so like a cog). Uou drill the hole just slightly smaller (they come in a standard size to allow for this, obviously you'll be using M3 for mounting the motherboard (or 2.5). Then they just get forced in- but there isn't much forcing. I use them for MDF and plastics.
The best place for quality hardware is McMaster-Carr. They also carry the appropriate installation tool for those brass threaded inserts you were trying to use.
you could use a philips screw driven into the inserts before you drive them in if you ever want to revisit the inserts for another project... might help having a philips head for grip.
Not usually one for RGB but having some of that between the wood and the wall might make a neat statement. Doubly so if you can match the dominant color on screen in real-time.
Instead of drilling into wood, you could use some cablemod custom length cables. I think it would be much cleaner.
Or, maybe rotate motherboard and psu by 180 degrees so you could hide cables behind the wood?
Also, you could hide the power supply cable by drilling into the wood, putting extension cable into it and connect that to the wall using an angled cable.