Thank you for this demo. I am about to tackle a similar job for the first time. I have done many things in my long life, but this will be fun, albeit a tad messy.
I spent many a summer holiday on the old tyro flickers when i was a kid. Really hard graft dropping whole pine ends of Victorian houses and bruises on the knees at the end of the job from banging the gun to loosen up the mortar inside! Even harder now because the flickers are no where near as good as the old tyro ones. Looks like a good result fellas but just a couple of tips for when you do it again...dont apply tyrolean mix to fresh render, it can slump due to moisture and also "flow out" as we decorators say. The usual procedure with tyrolean is to do 3 passes, 2 at 45 degrees left and right and then one straight on. If you have your mix right you should be holding the gun around a foot away from the substrate and finally dont use pva externally, it can re emulsify in wet conditions and even though its behind a few passes of mortar, it can still absorb atmospheric moisture. Other than that decent effort. Nice one. 👍
I have always made my own tyrolean mix 1 part lime, one part snowcem (white cement) 2 parts sand. You don't really want to use pva outdoors as it can absorb water and loose adhesion. Personally i always use sbr.
@@gcorsale4619 less water in the first coat so it holds. Then I made a new mix... Your best leaving the first coat to harden before applying the finish. 👍
Nice job that! Done my own house in areas as I’ve had to do repairs in the past…. One thing that always strikes me is the price of some of the flicker guns!
There is not a lot of choice, they are now all made in China and mostly generic copies. The vintage tyrol English made green ones are the best and have farr better build than the newer ones, they crop up on ebay now and again, you can get spares to fit them if you do a bit of searching. The tyrol copies are OK but you may need to adjust the mechanism for instance file out the grovesthe spatter pattern Leaver slots into . Whatever you get try it out on some board before you use it as they all vary a bit.
Perfect timing Im just in the middle of repairing Tyrolean rendered walls , Great videao.
Thank you.
Thank you for this demo. I am about to tackle a similar job for the first time. I have done many things in my long life, but this will be fun, albeit a tad messy.
Very nice repair . The machine makes a nice even distribution of the product. Better than just flicking the product on with a brush
Yes definitely a big difference. Thanks 👍
Snowcem...that's a blast from the past for me.
I recall a customer having bags of that in his garage in the 80's.
I spent many a summer holiday on the old tyro flickers when i was a kid. Really hard graft dropping whole pine ends of Victorian houses and bruises on the knees at the end of the job from banging the gun to loosen up the mortar inside! Even harder now because the flickers are no where near as good as the old tyro ones.
Looks like a good result fellas but just a couple of tips for when you do it again...dont apply tyrolean mix to fresh render, it can slump due to moisture and also "flow out" as we decorators say.
The usual procedure with tyrolean is to do 3 passes, 2 at 45 degrees left and right and then one straight on. If you have your mix right you should be holding the gun around a foot away from the substrate and finally dont use pva externally, it can re emulsify in wet conditions and even though its behind a few passes of mortar, it can still absorb atmospheric moisture. Other than that decent effort. Nice one. 👍
Thanks mate I appreciate the info.
And yep had work glad it's only patches 👍
👍👍👍. Thank you
Thanks 👍
PVA is no good, it will drop off when it gets damp, it’s only waterproof when mixed with cement, it needs SBR
It won't get wet and anyway the render is waterproof and also the paint is breathable. If it gets through you got a problem anyway. Thanks
I have always made my own tyrolean mix 1 part lime, one part snowcem (white cement) 2 parts sand.
You don't really want to use pva outdoors as it can absorb water and loose adhesion. Personally i always use sbr.
I was wondering when we'd see this .Thank you.
You're welcome 👍
is this ready mixed gear as good as traditional
I've only used ready mixed in a flicker but I found it great stuff to work with. Thanks
Did you use the same mix for the floating and the top coat, or did you mix a fresh batch for the finish?
@@gcorsale4619 less water in the first coat so it holds. Then I made a new mix... Your best leaving the first coat to harden before applying the finish. 👍
@@PaintingandDecorating thanks
Nice job that! Done my own house in areas as I’ve had to do repairs in the past…. One thing that always strikes me is the price of some of the flicker guns!
Cheers mate. Yes they do range in price lot of choice.
Well that looks like crap
What Tyrolean gun would you recommend ??
There is not a lot of choice, they are now all made in China and mostly generic copies.
The vintage tyrol English made green ones are the best and have farr better build than the newer ones, they crop up on ebay now and again, you can get spares to fit them if you do a bit of searching.
The tyrol copies are OK but you may need to adjust the mechanism for instance file out the grovesthe spatter pattern Leaver slots into .
Whatever you get try it out on some board before you use it as they all vary a bit.
The one I used is a silver line it's okay for a small repair. Thanks