Yamaha FJR1300 Front And Rear Wheel Brake Driveshaft Removal Inspection Lube Service
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- Опубліковано 30 бер 2015
- Yamaha FJR1300 Front And Rear Wheel Brake Driveshaft Removal Inspection Lube Service
The rear axle nut torque is 90 lbs./ft.
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Just in case you miss it in Brian's description section: The rear axle nut torque is 90 lbs./ft.
I cannot tell you how much I appreciate the time and effort that you put into these video’s. The money that I am saving with your help is huge ! So all I can say is THANK YOU....THANK YOU...THANK YOU!!!!!
Yamaha and the FJR community owe you big time. Great quality videos as well. All you are doing is invaluable. Wow. You are a dying breed, Sir.
Nicely done videos; finally, someone who understands the need to for clean audio, and understands concepts of video.
Great video. A couple things I would add after doing this several times, go ahead and remove the front fender before removing the front wheel. Makes it much easier to roll the wheel out and back in. And make sure you wipe down the rotors with brake cleaner before you slide the calipers back on in case you did get a touch of grease on there.
Hi, I picked up my new FJR1300ES about 2 years ago, your videos are my go to when I am looking for info. I took your advice , while my rear wheel was off I inspected the front end of the drive shaft (spline) ALMOST didnt do it thinking Yamaha did it correctly. Well my 2021 had ZERO signs of any grease. After cursing, I did it up right. Thank you for all the hard work you put into making your videos.
One of the best DIY videos I have ever seen. Spot on for everything. Very clear and view was right where I needed it to be. I even deared to get into the drive shaft for inspection because of the quality of content!! Even the info on the grease was useful and usually most DIY's don't cover that type of info.
Thx!
I know this is an old video, but I wanted to comment on the fact that most service departments are not worth a crap. Took delivery of a brand new Yamaha and I showed up to pick it up it had almost no gas, clock was not set, tires were both 15psi low on air and no oil was showing in the sight glass, mirrors were still loose. I'm tearing into it this weekend just because your video is more proof of everything they don't do either at the factory or the dealer.
I told my wife i had reasons to keep all my textbooks over the years! You never know when you need them. Math is always involved. Especially in this case! Bravo!
TwoWheelObession! Yes I said that right! Thank you so much for this video. I've watched several so far and you have performed 110% beyond the normal. Thank you sir for highlighting the extra steps including grease composition etc. This is certainly an A+ DIY TODO video for use FJR owners. Well done.
Very pleased I found this video. 5 minutes for the back wheel and ten for the front. Some corrosion on both axles and all five pinch bolts but splines greased. Thank you so much for sharing.
Hey Byan, great video. I just checked my '13 today, followed your video to the letter and I had no issues. Thank you for this. My axel and final drive were fine. I did clean and re-grease. However the Drive-shaft was virtually bone dry with no (very little) grease. Well I fixed that right up. Glad I did. This bike just rolled over 22k miles when I got it. I put on almost 2300 in the first month. I'll be checking the front next weekend.
Thanks for what you do.
just a suggestion, before tightening bolts down - mount the calipers leaving bolts loose, then take bike off centerstand roll it forward and apply brakes (still with bolts loose) 2-3 times, then put the bike back on the center stand and tighten things down to spec. In the honda service manual they suggest this procedure to make sure all the parts are in alignment. otherwise love the video, I'm thinking of getting a older FJR myself and wanted to see what the service for it looks like (IRL, not in the manual).
Thanks for the video. I'm glad my dealer is competent as the front axle was greased when I removed mine for a tire replacement. All your videos on the FJR are first rate.
Nice... straight to the point and very thorough.. very explicit and didn't miss any details. I got it done the same afternoon for my FJR that had sit for over three years. Thanks Man!!! saved me $600 I was going to pay to a no-call no show technician. Loved your video.
Thanks for a vid that shows how seemingly simple things can have very major implications. This is a real MUST SEE for used shaft drive bike buyers!
I really enjoy all of your videos, but this one was by far the most informative of all. Great job, thanks!!!
Thanks for your great vids Bryan. One note on the driveshaft splines is that the u-joint has a spline drive on the transmission side as well as the driveshaft side. The u-joint needs to be removed to lube the front splines but this can be done without removing the swingarm. This also allows inspection of the u-joint integrity. Thanks again for your great vids.
Thanks for sharing this with us. I much prefer seeing a video than reading a manual. :)
Thanks to you and these clear and user friendly vids, I have gained an edge with maintenance and an advantage in cost savings; not to mention insightful knowledge of value regarding the FJR. Bravo.
Just greased the front and rear axle on my 2019 FJR after 2800 miles and yes they were bone dry and the rear axle is already showing corrosion.
Thank you for the vid, so informative and easy to follow.👍
Hey, I've just pulled my rear axle and the final drive shaft as per your recommendation and NO Grease!!!! I ride a 2018 FJR 1300A. Thanks for the great videos. I never would have tried it if not for seeing you do it. No problems getting the final drive shaft back up into the gearbox.
As always, great videos. First place I come to for info on DIY'ing my FJR. Had to take the front wheel off today so this vid came in very handy. Only difference for me was I didn't want to have to take the back wheel off so instead I took the mudguard off instead (fender in USA talk). Four bolts is all and made the wheel removal easy. Thanks again from South Australia.
Thanks Bryan! I appreciate how thorough you are in walking us through it all. A problem (of my own creation) was not keeping track of which front spacer collar was left and right. I put it back together reversed (Murphy’s law) and on my 1/2 block test ride felt it dragging. I wasn’t entirely sure why but new it was bearings of calipers. Came back home and pulled it apart...started over and determined I must have them reversed. Put it in correct and its perfect. Plus I have the confidence of knowing the bike now :-). All your vid’s are helpful.
Front axle nut discovery.. UA-cam gold!!!
Man I'm gonna be doing this whole procedure the second I get my new bike home.. but will surely be checking front axle nut is tight before leaving the dealership.
Great video brother!! Thanks for the tips👍
2006 FJR1300 (blue if it matters lol) - Just did this, completely because of your video! I needed tires, but I would have never had the guts without watching, thank you sir!
My Axles were dry as a bone (no pitting thankfully) and I had surface corrosion on the driveshaft from not being lubricated (not even a film). Rear tire teeth @ the 'pumpkin' had some grease, i cleaned and re-did it for peace of mind.
Thanks again, scared the hell out of me (I had to leave the bike on jackstands for 3 days because of shipping...grrr) but it got done!!
thank you for your in depth videos, so very helpful. i actually bought the 2015 can am f3s based on your in depth review. very discouraging that bikes are coming so un setup from the factory, unlubed, loose bolts, nuts, etc. once again excellent video series. thank you !!!
Thanks a lot for putting up this video. I just pulled my front and rear wheels with ease thanks to you!
Great information, thanks! I would like to add that on a 2013 FJR the front wheel spacers are different thickness so if your not paying attention and switch these, the calipers will be slightly miss aligned with the rotors, causing the pads to drag.
If that was my front axle, I would have stopped what I was doing and gone down to the dealer and had some words!!!!! You showed great restraint!
This is a great step by step video. Thanks Bryan.
This is fantastic. I can't thank you enough, Bryan.
Once again Bryan, great video that will not only save fellow riders REAL money BUT possibly their lives too! Well done.
Well said Christian.
Very good and detailed information videos. I was very apprehensive to start prying on the dash plastic covers, however your headlight LED video was all I needed to ensure my confidence to get into this without worry of busting plastic parts up, they are expensive to replace I expect.
Cheers,
Thanks for this! You spent a lot of time and effort doing this - Great Job!!!!
i knew an algebra book was good for something. now i got it.
Mejor que los manuales de taller, es este buenísimo vídeo, gracias!
I own a 2013 FJR1300, Fantastic machine. Thank you very much for these videos, they are great!!
followed your video and used your recommended greases...Worked great. Like your bike, the spinal lacked grease. everything else had a fair amount of grease but cleaned and lubed. Thanks Bryan
U know who is the best in servicing your bike???,yourself,kudos for wrenching on your bike
Trukerinfulleffect TRUTH
Very good Bryan. There was one angle that I didn't see and that was placing the rear axle sleeve on the left side when reassembling. Again, great video.
Absolutely an excellent video. Wonderful. Thank you
Just did this on my used, but new to me 2006 FJR..... Thank you for the video
Excellent tutorial
Been watching lots of your videos as I have just bought a 2014 AE (your ES)
Top work fella 👍
Great step by step vid. just back from a 5500 mile trip out west. had only 550 miles on a 2016 ES before I left. Oil change before and after. low miles because I took your advice and sent my seat to Seth Laam. Oh ya, enough said. I live 30 minutes from Dennis Kirk in MN. Free mount and balance with tire purchase,I'm trying Bridgestone T30's first. Really interested to see if parts are greased. Thanks for all your advice Travis
I had trouble removing those calipers but MUCH better success when I used 'external lock ring pliers' to retract the pads/pistons. I used these pliers years ago to work on a manual transmission. This "reverse operation" plier is not the pin type but has a flat "jaw" to push against the pad backing which extends slightly out past the pad. Tool also called 'retaining ring pliers'.
Great Job! the quality of the video is exceptional.
+Louis Carlotti Thanks!
This saved me a lot of money and time.
unbelievably good detailed video. Thanks.
Thanks!
Thank you so much for this video and your detailed information! You helped me really much with it! Thx from Austria ✌😊
Very well done video!
Im glad I saw your video when you put the socket on the front wheel the nut was loose and immediately I thought that was dangerous
You are my hero, thanks so much.
Paldies, ļoti noderīgs video. Man ļoti palīdzēja.
Another great video that is quite helpful. Thanks@
I would like to leave my own opinion on the factory grease subject, if that's OK.
As for the rear axle grease, there is nothing that moves or rotates against this axle. It is fixed into the swing arm and final drive, and the rest is just through the centre of bearings, of which the part touching the axle does not move. The factory applies a light film of lubricant likely just to protect against rusting. There should be NO lubricant applied to the 'lug' part of the axle (the part that goes inside the right side swing arm) as that part is NOT supposed to turn at all.
As for the grease at the front end of the final drive shaft, confirmed that there is very little to no grease from factory. There is almost no movement between the splines and u-joint anyway, but a tiny bit of grease can not hurt and would prevent rusting. I'd suggest being careful to keep excess grease to a minimum so as not to attract dirt there.
Also, I did not see if the U-joint coupling is like a sealed cup where it attached to drive shaft. If so, putting grease on the shaft MIGHT be a bad thing to do. I remember an incident with a popular helicopter's tail rotor shaft that was very similar to this one. When excess grease was applied, it made an air tight seal in the coupler. When the vehicle went to a higher altitude, the air trapped in the coupler expanded, pushing the drive shaft outward. This applied a little bit of force on the rear shaft bearing that it was not designed for and caused bearing failure. In that case, the tail rotor seized and flying was done for the day. An important service bulletin was issued to NOT grease the shaft splines except in a very specific way and exact (tiny) amount. Subsequent couplers had 'breather' holes in them. I can see an FJR going from, say, sea level to 10,000 feet, and you would surprised how much force that could put on the shaft laterally. So, just beware.
I put on a SMALL amount of Honda Moly 60 grease on the splines, just enough to protect it a bit but hopefully not so much as to make an air tight seal - just in case that coupling is air tight.
Thanks again. Keep up the great work!
Great video. Thanks.
Another great how to -- don't think I will attempt this, but good to know how it's done! Thanks again
very helpful video, thanks
I noticed the challenge you had removing the front axle. What I do to ease that task is to unscrew the axle bolt until there's only a couple threads holding it to the axle. Then tap the bolt lightly with a rubber mallet until the bolt flange comes up against the fork. That will have pushed the axle out far enough to where you can easily grab it by hand and pull it the rest of the way out.
Great video!!!! Helped me out a lot :)
Keep the great work up
Love these vids. Here is another data point to your loose front axel nut mystery. I am a aircraft mechanic. I use a torque wrench no matter if I think I have a good sense of torque, which I dont. I tested myself. I am on my third front tire change on my 2014 FJR. I know I torqued the axel nut properly. When I went to take off the nut yesterday, it came off looser than I would have liked. Now I am wondeing if I should mark my calander and check the torque six months from now.
All good but I got into the habit of tightening the rear axle 1st before the pumpkin nuts for good alignment. This was required on 80's Hondas so the splines wouldnt tear out and it seemed sound so I do it on all......
Hi I've watched a few of your videos and appreciate them. I wanted to say I think you need a motorcycle lift, that a person such as yourself would greatly benefit from having one. You get into big stuff! and your FJ weighs almost a half a ton. Harbor freight sells an inexpensive useful one and Titan sells the best on market high dollar one. Keep up the good videos! Ron
Nice to meet you the other day (Tom - black 2008 FJR). Thanks for making these informative videos for us. Ride safe. (note - the driveshaft splines on both my 2003 and 2008 FJRs were fairly dry from the factory).
Tom FJR Glad you could stop by lol!
So much for Japanese perfection on the assembly line ( Loose front wheel nut). Using a bit of fine Emory cloth on the front shaft would remove the corrosion and pitting without harming the shaft. Great video Bry, Thanks..
Don't assume things. It's dealer installed.
It's Dealer fault, most new bike boxed without wheels, windshield, mirror and minor acc installed.
I watched a lot of your video also I learned a lot from you even though I haven’t got my bike yet I’m getting
YAMAHA MT-09. 2020
2 by 6 board under center stand or smaller and raise gives you added clearance. Many tires changed this way...same on front.
One more thought as I remove the wheels from my 2016 FJR for the first time...( I did this on my 2003 many times but it was slightly different and did not have ABS like my 2016 ). On the rear wheel, if you remove the bolt at the forward end of the brake trailing link, the whole brake caliper with hoses etc drops down and out of the way. No need to remove that plastic clip.
Re. front axle loose bolt... the end of the forks are clamping down onto the axle via the 4 allen bolts. Even if the axle bolt falls off, the clamps of the shocks still hold the shaft.
How about servicing amortization levers (progression) of the rear suspension and check ware of spacers and bearings?
Én a két kipufogót csak lekaptam volna, sokkal jobban hozzá lehetne férni mindenhez. De nagyon hasznos volt a videó, nagyon köszönöm!!!
When I saw the loose front wheel nut, I stopped and ran out to check mine! It was tight. Phew!
This was a great video, thanks so much and keep the coming.... Ken from Feeding Hills Ma.
Thanks for making this video. I have just bought an ex police FJR1300 with 100000Km on the odo. I wonder if its drive shaft is still nicely lubed.....
great in depth video very informative thanks
Ronnie Neely Welcome!
Great video! Wow! That was scary shit with the front axel! I just checked mine and all is fine, thank god! I sure do miss living in Florida, riding in Utah in 2016 has sucked, constant bad weather. Thanks for the videos, please keep them coming. if you are in the west give me a hollar.
Very good video with plenty of useful information within. Very surprised your axles were both dry from the dealer.
Good video! Thank you!
Vere well done!
Very educational...and HS&^T cant believe your front axle was only finger tight; I can confirm that these are dealer mounted based on my experience w/ my 2015 FJR at 600miles all four front fender screws were loose to the point I lost one. I had just happened to stop on the Blue Ridge Pkwy with a friend to take in some sights when we noticed the issue. I now have accumulated 2300miles and I am thinking this lube service over the winter would be well worth it based on what you showed at only ~3000 miles.Again, thanks and keep sharing :-)
I love this video I haven't gotten my bike yet I'm on the fence about the fjr1300 I hear a lot about the ticking in the engine can you elaborate on that....I trust your input and thanks again keep up the good work
Wow you could have spun that axle nut off by hand, Scary. On my last 500 mile leg home I pulled in for fuel. now noticing my stem nut is GONE. Freaking out, Sunday in the middle of South Dakota. Somehow I look down at the front tire,there it was. Thank you Lord. What are the odds? Specs call for 82 ft. lbs. PEOPLE check your bike. A lucky lesson learned
hello, I have a fjr model 07, I want to lubricate the driveshaft, you know if it's the same procedure?
Brian, great video. Watching it allowed me to remove the both wheels on my 2018 FJR and take them to the tire retailer to have new tires mounted. My question is, after I installed the rear tire, axle and tire, if I tighten the nut on the axle over 30 lbs, the rear wheel will not be able to spin. I have rode the bike and it rides well but I do not feel comfortable at having the nut at such a low fps. What do you think I did wrong with the install of the rear wheel.
What’s the Torque value for the main rear 27mm nut? Please advise. Thank you! Great video!
Rather than using an Allen key, I would suggest a 6mm Allen head socket for your ratchet. A few bucks spent will be well rewarded in ease of future wheel removals & installations. At good tools stores, you can buy singles; no need to buy a whole set when one or two sizes suit most of your needs. The 6mm fits the rear brake trailing link, the front pinch bolts, and brake discs.
Hi Bryan. Going to be doing the drive shaft service soon. Is it very difficult to get the shaft back in? I've never done it before, all of my previous bikes were chain driven. Just don't want to mess anything up.
Thx!
I can't seem to find the valvoline dura syn blend moly grease for the hub splines anywhere. Good recommendation for another option?
38:20 I believe there is also shorter spacer on the right side view inboard of the abs sensor, just learned that the hard way.
Ditto. I feel better knowing that I'm not the only one who did this.
Hello what website do you use to buy oem parts and can you give me the information for clutch kit
Glad you found that loose axle nut. Just goes to show you that you really cant trust anyone to do things right especially where your life might depend on it.
Nice legs! LOL.... Hey, thanks for all the videos. This helps a lot as I'm getting ready to pull my rear wheel for the first time. I may have missed it, but what is the torque spec for the big 27mm rear axle bolt when I put the rear back on?
Nice job with the videos Bryan. I just purchased an FJR 1300 2015 model that was drastically reduced. I'd be pissed about the front axle nut. I'd take that video to the dealer and also contact Yamaha. When I purchased my Yamaha, I received a letter and email from Yamaha in California wanting me to describe my experience. You need to bring that issue up with Yamaha. They grade the dealers on these customer satisfaction surveys. I'm doing some work on mine today and will definitely check that nut.
Good riding....
The dealer went out of biz shortly after. Turnover here is ridiculous.
My daughter lives South of you in Naples, FL. My wife and I wish she would move as it is frekin expensive there. She wanted warmer weather than what we have in Canton, OH. She sure got it with Naples and so did a nice price tag. Placing fog lamps/LEDS to the side of my FJR for visibility. LED's are great for placing additional lights at little watts..
Very good and informative video. I probably wouldn't attempt it, I don't have the tools or patience (and there aren't enough swear words in the English language) to do all of this. I did tighten to spec my front and rear axel bolts when I got my bike and after tire replacement. I had the shop ensure that the axels were cleaned and greased properly. Curious if you noticed any difference in riding you may have gotten after greasing the axels.
thehexter1 No - it's to prevent damage, wear and corrosion, not for any kind of rolling resistance. The wheels ride on the bearings, not the axle itself.
did I miss installing the rear axel nut?????? Torque? Before or after the pinch bolt?
Old vid, new comment. when you re lubed the drive shaft and re inserted it into the Universal joint, did you consider the other half of the universal joint being dry as well?, the front half? I recently did the same job on my Gen 2. A couple more screws and removed the Universal joint,, cleaned it and re lubed both ends.
I also remove my wheels to take to the dealer for new tires, 2 more bolts, RH exhaust mount to foot peg and the pipe clamp, 1 minute work and the muffler is out of the way. Works better for me. IMO
2005 model, purchased off original owner at 30K km now has 90K km and I just did this same rear end work.
I also believe you made and error. when you re torqued the pumpkin to the swing arm, this should have been done AFTER the rear wheel and axle was reinstalled for better alignment, again IMO
Great Vid, wish I had the equipment and the knowledge to produce informative vids, I have it all in my head, just not tech savvy.
Cheers From Australia.
On the rear wheel, what washer is the thicker one? Abs side or the shaft side?
I noticed you didn’t align the fork legs. Any particular reason?
Has Yamaha resolved this possible issue as six years have gone by? I bought a 2021 FJR new.
Was the mileage or interval mentioned? It would be super helpful to point out how much usage this thing has seen when confronting the inspection performed here. Please.