Thank you Sir . My boiler is different to yours but the air valve thingy is the same . Thanks to you I have fixed my boiler and saved £££££ on a service call out ... Thank you for your very informative video .
Just wondering if I should use pro dope instead of Teflon tape? I bought both and am comparing installation methods before I start. Mine is a Watts Automatic float valve. I assume they are equivalent?
Could I replace the air scoop myself? I’m a homeowner and try to do as much as I can on my own. Just got the expansion tank replaced, by someone else, and now the air scoop is leaking and the guy is saying it needs to be replaced. Can I do this myself?
@@cantletherdiediy1050 Thanks for the response... Yes I understand. But I was under the impression that the air vents were only intended to remove small amounts of air from the system. I've watched other videos by heating pros who always connect a garden hose to purge the air after replacing components. I guess what I am wanting to know is, when do you do a manual purge and when can you just let the vent do it for you?
@@mwa1252 Hi Maurice, I did not have to bleed the air out of my system because I had shutoff valves where I could isolate the zone that I needed to work on and that zone contained the AAV which was able to release the small amount of trapped air that I introduced. It depends on your system of course. You can bleed the air out of your zone if you think you need to. You do it by isolating the zone and then bleeding the air (with a hose connected to the outlet in that zone) out until you only get water (no more trapped air). Your system may be able to automatically purge itself using the AAV and the compression tank but if you think your system is air locked then bleeding it will help and certainly will not hurt. I hope that helps Maurice, it's hard to advise without seeing your system.
Thank you Sir .
My boiler is different to yours but the air valve thingy is the same .
Thanks to you I have fixed my boiler and saved £££££ on a service call out ... Thank you for your very informative video .
Thanks for the great comment Martin. I'm glad my video helped... Cheers!
Thank you very much for your video it helped a lot especially I have no any experience with this kind of machine 🙏🎈😄👍😎🤞
Just wondering if I should use pro dope instead of Teflon tape? I bought both and am comparing installation methods before I start. Mine is a Watts Automatic float valve. I assume they are equivalent?
Either Pro Dope or Teflon tape will work and your Watts AAV is almost identical so you should be good. Good Luck!
Just make sure they are the same size as the original so it screws into your boiler system. Mine is 1/8th of an inch but they can be 1/2 inch.
Awesome video! Thanks for the help boss!
Thanks for watching and commenting... I'm glad it helped
Does this apply to a tankless water heater?
Could I replace the air scoop myself? I’m a homeowner and try to do as much as I can on my own. Just got the expansion tank replaced, by someone else, and now the air scoop is leaking and the guy is saying it needs to be replaced. Can I do this myself?
You can do more than you think Adam.
By any chance can you put the link to the valve you purchased?
Yes please help me! 🙏 cause last bill was a $670. Just to replace a heating boiler relief valve nothing else without any warranty.
Do you know that you put the Teflon tape on incorrectly?
Yes, I initially put it on backwards. Thanks for letting me know. Cheers!
Did you need to purge the air from the system afterward?
No, that’s what the Automatic Air Vent does
@@cantletherdiediy1050 Thanks for the response... Yes I understand. But I was under the impression that the air vents were only intended to remove small amounts of air from the system. I've watched other videos by heating pros who always connect a garden hose to purge the air after replacing components. I guess what I am wanting to know is, when do you do a manual purge and when can you just let the vent do it for you?
@@mwa1252 Hi Maurice, I did not have to bleed the air out of my system because I had shutoff valves where I could isolate the zone that I needed to work on and that zone contained the AAV which was able to release the small amount of trapped air that I introduced. It depends on your system of course. You can bleed the air out of your zone if you think you need to. You do it by isolating the zone and then bleeding the air (with a hose connected to the outlet in that zone) out until you only get water (no more trapped air). Your system may be able to automatically purge itself using the AAV and the compression tank but if you think your system is air locked then bleeding it will help and certainly will not hurt. I hope that helps Maurice, it's hard to advise without seeing your system.
@@cantletherdiediy1050 Thanks... Think I get it now!
You needed to drain the water to relieve the water pressure before you unscrewed the valve