Support- www.patreon.com/acservicetech Tool List- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech For those that are looking for the tools used in the videos: (Linked Below) UEI DL479 Multimeter with temp sensor amzn.to/2jtsUbJ Valve Core Removal Tool amzn.to/2uYr8WL Blue Vapor Yellow Jacket Gauge- amzn.to/2Ju7pan Red Liquid Yellow Jacket Gauge- amzn.to/2sSFmGH Quick Coupler for the Gauges- amzn.to/2sTk8Ze JB Test Gauge High Side- amzn.to/2ruQb0l JB Test Gauge Low Side- amzn.to/2qR0utM Manual Copper Tube Swage/Expander- amzn.to/2WRPa1M Uniweld Hydraulic Swaging Tool- amzn.to/2MlrI8m Uniweld Swage and Flare Kit- amzn.to/2T55jyn Ameriflame Oxy Acetylene Torch Setup- amzn.to/2SRm3JF #2 Tip for Oxy Acetylene Torch- amzn.to/2SPDaeD Cap-N-Hook Tip for Oxy Acetylene- amzn.to/2MbhpUk Air Acetylene Torch Setup- amzn.to/2aQalsb 15% Silver Brazing Rods- amzn.to/2gVLyLc Nitrogen Regulator- amzn.to/2bXdR5f Nitrogen Flow Meter- amzn.to/2brvoBg NitroVue Flow Reg- amzn.to/2MiulYv Ultrasonic Leak Detector- amzn.to/2Lw4Zpr UEI DL479 Multimeter with temp sensor amzn.to/2jtsUbJ Magnet Jumpers- amzn.to/2PyKPQZ Alligator Jumpers- amzn.to/2PxqJXn Fieldpiece ST4 Dual Temp Meter amzn.to/2wc1ME3 Fieldpiece Bead K Type Temp Sensor amzn.to/2DBwKfs Fieldpiece Wet Bulb Temp Sensor amzn.to/2RRI7Tw Fieldpiece TC24 Temp Clamp amzn.to/2qHLyjZ Yellow Jacket Refrigerant Gauge Set amzn.to/2aenwTq Refrigerant hoses with valves amzn.to/2aBumVI Yellow Jacket Gauge set & hoses amzn.to/2vLVkV9 Yellow Jacket 4 Port Manifold w Hoses amzn.to/2BkuGIq FieldpieceSMAN360 Digital Manifold Set amzn.to/2BdoaD4 FieldpieceSMAN460 Digital Manifold Set amzn.to/2nB4Fe6 Compact Ball Valve for Refrigerant Hose amzn.to/2KUisW8 QuickDisconnect 90 for refrigerant hose amzn.to/2MMtVcg JB 6 CFM Vacuum Pump amzn.to/2nqbvo8 Appion Blue 3/8" to 1/4" Vacuum Hose amzn.to/2uYlVyc Appion Red 3/8" to 1/4" Vacuum Hose amzn.to/2uYg6Ro Appion Valve Core Removal Tool amzn.to/2uYr8WL Yellow Jacket 1/4" by 1/4" hose amzn.to/2umtcod CPS Vacuum Micron Gauge amzn.to/2v1nM3O Supco Vacuum Micron Gauge amzn.to/2v1JRiA RectorSeal Bubble Gas Leak Detector amzn.to/2ckWACn UEI DL389 Multimeter amzn.to/2xAdaJf Other tool links can be found in the video description section. Shop through Amazon! Your Purchases through Amazon provide a means for channels such as mine to earn advertising fees from all purchases after clicking through. Prices are the same as normal- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech
This was so incredibly helpful. Very thorough and clear. Last year I had an impeller that was stuck. Manually turned it to free it. This year it was a sticky relay (problem #6). Thought at first it was air in the lines as I turn off water to that heater in the summer so that hot water is not always providing a heat source in that room. Drained the line but no joy. Pump not running but impeller turning was the hint. I just tapped the relay after removing the cover and the pump engaged. Will see if the relay returns to normal switching. This is a Grundfos pump with the access port as shown above. Thank you so much for helping us DIY home owners.
Excellent diagnostic and repair presentation. I was able to get major air pockets removed by the fill and bleed method and provide heat to the upstairs apartment. Thanks for saving me money, time, and wasted efforts.
Great video! I ended up buying a new one, but with this video I had the confidence to do it myself and that saved me so much money and maybe even saved me from a new boiler this year! Just got quoted for a new boiler.... $20K!!! Cheers!
thank you so much for all the tips. I'm a handy man but my expertise is in automobiles and carpentry. this probably saves me hundreds of dollars on my first personal diagnosis. I don't have a fill valve but I do have two valves that fit a garden hose. One after the circulator and one on the bottom. I will try to fill it. last year it worked well but I could hear air in my system. thank you for giving me a chance at messing with it. something so simple but I just couldn't figure how to fill without a valve
good video. nice! I've devoured your videos for the last year doing residential but since I got into commercial hvac, im working with boilers, cooling towers, vav boxes, water cooled condensers, chillers. Good video thnx!
Any good videos on commercial stuff? Or do you learn as you go with that? The principles on some things seem similar. I’m an apprentice working with chillers and cooling towers.
Some recirculating pumps have a flow check built in, correct? What happens if that gets gunked up or fails some other way? I have a very simple hot water system that first wouldn't make heat even though the hot water heater was hot. There was an inline flow check valve that was gunked up. Changing that out fixed the problem but also created a new one. With the new valve installed that heat just won't stop even with the thermostat turned off. Since that flow check valve was replaced the hot water seems to be circulating on its own due to and the heat inside here just won't stop.
I have replaced 4 circulating pumps over 10 years because they were running hot and probably failed prematurely. In my last replacement I surrounded the pump with strips of aluminum foil to draw away the heat and have noticed it runs cooler and more efficient.IMHO
I have Taco 007-F5-71FC right now in my system. Can you tell me please on which model can I change it which have more power? Because right now it not enough power for two floors? Thank you!
I came across one where the pump assembly is rotting out. Roughly 10 years old. Is this due to lack of maintenance, and proper draining of the lines every so often?
Thank you for these informations. Can you tell me what should be the circulation pump’s body temberature while working? Since I found it very very hot when I touch it, Thanks
Would a noisy circulator pump cause the pressure relief valve on the boiler to open up as well? I checked the pressure and it was around 20 psi and temperature was around 150-160 F, no problem there. So I'm not sure if the circulator pump is the problem or now I'm thinking maybe the expansion tank?
That was good. I think I should shut my system down and wait till Monday and get some oil, though it could just be the start capacitor but I can't do the stairs again today. I did get it spinning by jamming a sacrificial piece of plastic into the clutch and pushed. So at least I know that The motor works.
Very nice! Wondering if you have encountered a pulsing in the pump (primary), frequency approx 10 times per second, pressure surges at same frequency approx 3 psi, audible upstairs. Any suggestions? Bad bearings, blockage? The system is only 6 years old.
My circulation pump is like the one before the red one and there's no noise at all there's no current going into the motor L1 wire, no shut off valves above or below the pump housing any advice how to stop water from leaking down out when I replace it?😕
My problem is #5 and I guess the builder never hooked the pump up to power. It's located in a box outside on the house next to the AC unit. I have a leak from the Taco pump but I can't seem to find a new O ring anywhere, do you know where I could find one? the Model number is 006-BC5Y-1 any help is appriciated.
i have a question... i bought my house a few years ago. and they system works great. the boiler was manufactured in 1963 (IIRC) its old.. but it works perfectly. ok my question.... i don't have zones. its all one zone.. would they have built it consecutively or would each room go to a junction and feed back to the storage tank?? Also, there are times when it sound like water going through the radiator. like I don't think its 100% full of water... are they systems designed to be topped off.... or are they only filled up so much.. to make room for expansion when the water is heated...???... sorry this is all new technology to me... every house i have ever lived in has had force air system... This house also has a heat pump. with a back up heat grid... so I have 3 different ways to heat my house.. However, its was built at the end of the 19th century. so electric is stupid expensive to heat with.
I recently purchased a outdoor boiler with 2 water circulator output. One is ging to the house one to my shop. Both have circulation pumps. Nrf 25 to the house and nrf36 to the shop. That's bell gossett pumps. The one to the house works quiet and the one to the shop is working relatively laud. The laud one sounds like it has air inside the pump. I drained the line back into the boiler with a garden hose and pump running. But that didn't solve the problem. Is it possible that the pump itself got weak? Or inside damage so it creates vaccum/air within the pump that gets pushed into the system?
The thermostat electrical connector caps were touching making the Fasco blower, and possible the Taco Cartridge circulator continues to run until I pull the caps away from each other, then the blower stopped. Question: could there be a bad wire inside the connectors or can electric caps insulation go bad? I am thinking of having an electrician totally rewire the thermostat wiring from the house thermostat to the boiler control unit. Any thoughts or suggestions are appreciated?
Hi, my system is approx 10 years old. Circulator was replaced approx 3 years ago. Recently (august 2021) Why will circulator motor not shut off, thermostat is set at 40*F. Circ motor is hot. That loop is cold. I just purged the entire system (Circulator #1 in question has 2 heating zones with zone valves. Circulator #2 is for indirect domestic HW & no zone valve). Why will circ#1 not shut off?
When my unit, four zones, was built two guys did the work. Looking at the first thing the B team guy did, I told the A team guy that I’m going to have to look at this system for a long long time. So the A team guy sent b guy off doing other stuff. A guy built a great four zone manifold system that was, “Instrument Fitter” quality work, perfectly plumb and level and square. . The B team guy soldered pipes out in the zone manifolds and used an old worn wire brush cleaning the insides of the copper pipes. We ended up opening the system at the pumps taking out broken wires from an old worn out soldering brush the dummy brought with him !
Out of curiosity if you have say 4 zones and 1 zone does not have water at a bleed valve, is it possible there is no water because the circulator pump locked up? or would it be more likely the bleed valve is not working? (its -26 ) and I am not taking the boiler offline or changing water if I can help it and everything else seems fine and working?
Not sure if this is the place to ask but I have a switching relay (Honeywell RA89A) that turns on my boiler contacters but my circulating pump is wired directly to a breaker and runs 24/7. I'd like to add a surface mounted temp control (was looking at a Johnson Controls A19DAC-1C, 100 to 240 deg F) to the pump circuit. Would I need to add another switching relay to do this, or do these temp controls switch 110V on their own?
I had a grundfos airlocked and was able to bleed out the air through the same access used to unlock the motor. Is that there for air bleeding purposes as well?? Great vids, long time subscriber...
My building I live in uses water heating and that pump they had was so noise you could hear it vibrating through the baseboard heating. Landlords finally got some guys in to replace it now it’s so silent I’m not use too it lol. I still hear little buzzing but not really loud anymore. Mostly just hear the water moving
Please HELP!! Bell and Gossettt Series #100 Power getting to the pump: 122V Pump motor not turning with power but seems to turn freely with my screwdriver. I did try the Resistance test. I think I got 0.L (gonna look again) Electrical windings fried ??
My problem is that I cannot have both my floors heating system on, if I put on the 1st floor, my second floor shuts off and vice versa. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
My pump was not circulating water and was making a very high pitch squeeling sound. With online help from a relative, I was advised that the impeller was likely stuck and the high pitch sound was the shaft spinning. He said try hitting it with a wrench to get it spinning, which I did. The impeller then was spinning again and water was circulating. I believe this problem was caused because a repairman left my water supply off after a small leak repair. It was off for almost 2 weeks. Does anyone think that this pump is now compromised and that the company should pay to replace this pump?
I have the larger red style pump. when i bought my house the seller showed me how to oil they system.. but he only showed me the 1 oil port on the propeller. learn something new every day. now to replace the o ring cause its leaking at the flange....
We're always thankful for the information you share, but It would be *much* better if you used the term "Micro Farad", instead of "UF". Even though we understand, the Unit Of Measurement is microfarads, not UF's. It's the same as the movie Back To The Future: He uses the term "Jigga-Watts" instead of "Gigawatts". You'll be teaching the incorrect unit pronunciation/terms to new students. Regardless of my pet peeve, thanks for sharing.
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For those that are looking for the tools used in the videos: (Linked Below)
UEI DL479 Multimeter with temp sensor amzn.to/2jtsUbJ
Valve Core Removal Tool amzn.to/2uYr8WL
Blue Vapor Yellow Jacket Gauge- amzn.to/2Ju7pan
Red Liquid Yellow Jacket Gauge- amzn.to/2sSFmGH
Quick Coupler for the Gauges- amzn.to/2sTk8Ze
JB Test Gauge High Side- amzn.to/2ruQb0l
JB Test Gauge Low Side- amzn.to/2qR0utM
Manual Copper Tube Swage/Expander- amzn.to/2WRPa1M
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Nitrogen Flow Meter- amzn.to/2brvoBg
NitroVue Flow Reg- amzn.to/2MiulYv
Ultrasonic Leak Detector- amzn.to/2Lw4Zpr
UEI DL479 Multimeter with temp sensor amzn.to/2jtsUbJ
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Fieldpiece ST4 Dual Temp Meter amzn.to/2wc1ME3
Fieldpiece Bead K Type Temp Sensor amzn.to/2DBwKfs
Fieldpiece Wet Bulb Temp Sensor amzn.to/2RRI7Tw
Fieldpiece TC24 Temp Clamp amzn.to/2qHLyjZ
Yellow Jacket Refrigerant Gauge Set amzn.to/2aenwTq
Refrigerant hoses with valves amzn.to/2aBumVI
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UEI DL389 Multimeter amzn.to/2xAdaJf
Other tool links can be found in the video description section.
Shop through Amazon! Your Purchases through Amazon provide a means for channels such as mine to earn advertising fees from all purchases after clicking through. Prices are the same as normal- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech
This was so incredibly helpful. Very thorough and clear. Last year I had an impeller that was stuck. Manually turned it to free it. This year it was a sticky relay (problem #6). Thought at first it was air in the lines as I turn off water to that heater in the summer so that hot water is not always providing a heat source in that room. Drained the line but no joy. Pump not running but impeller turning was the hint. I just tapped the relay after removing the cover and the pump engaged. Will see if the relay returns to normal switching. This is a Grundfos pump with the access port as shown above. Thank you so much for helping us DIY home owners.
Excellent diagnostic and repair presentation. I was able to get major air pockets removed by the fill and bleed method and provide heat to the upstairs apartment. Thanks for saving me money, time, and wasted efforts.
Great video! I ended up buying a new one, but with this video I had the confidence to do it myself and that saved me so much money and maybe even saved me from a new boiler this year! Just got quoted for a new boiler.... $20K!!! Cheers!
what was he replacing radiators too?
I haven’t gone back to find the problem but this video was very educational!
Thanks!
thank you so much for all the tips. I'm a handy man but my expertise is in automobiles and carpentry. this probably saves me hundreds of dollars on my first personal diagnosis.
I don't have a fill valve but I do have two valves that fit a garden hose. One after the circulator and one on the bottom. I will try to fill it. last year it worked well but I could hear air in my system. thank you for giving me a chance at messing with it. something so simple but I just couldn't figure how to fill without a valve
This video is comprehensive and easy to understand. Thank you!
Really great video. You’re a good teacher
Very good explanation of how to search for the problem 👍👍
Glad it helped
Great video, you covered lots of issues clearly and quickly.
good video. nice! I've devoured your videos for the last year doing residential but since I got into commercial hvac, im working with boilers, cooling towers, vav boxes, water cooled condensers, chillers. Good video thnx!
Got ya, that's awesome Daniel, great to hear!
Who do you watch for commercial?
Any good videos on commercial stuff? Or do you learn as you go with that? The principles on some things seem similar. I’m an apprentice working with chillers and cooling towers.
Thank you so much. Amazing explanations and demonstrations. VERY helpful
Great presentation. Thank you so much for taking the time to create videos like this.
Glad it was helpful!
Amazing information, keep up the good work master.
Thank you for this. You just kept me from having to get up every hour and switch zones for my heat ;) bled the line and it works like a charm. ❤️
Thanks for letting me know!
Excellent video and clear explanation! Thank you very much!
Thanks 🙏 I need more videos of Boilers
Excellent, thank you for covering everything
My pleasure!
you covered everything, thank you, well done
Glad you enjoyed it!
As always, very good quality videos, I really appreciate them. Thanks teacher. Keep making those videos.
Glad to help Luis!
Some recirculating pumps have a flow check built in, correct? What happens if that gets gunked up or fails some other way? I have a very simple hot water system that first wouldn't make heat even though the hot water heater was hot. There was an inline flow check valve that was gunked up. Changing that out fixed the problem but also created a new one. With the new valve installed that heat just won't stop even with the thermostat turned off.
Since that flow check valve was replaced the hot water seems to be circulating on its own due to and the heat inside here just won't stop.
Great video. Excellent information. Thank you very much for posting! Looking forward to more.
I have replaced 4 circulating pumps over 10 years because they were running hot and probably failed prematurely. In my last replacement I surrounded the pump with strips of aluminum foil to draw away the heat and have noticed it runs cooler and more efficient.IMHO
Very well explained 👍
Thanks for the video
You’re very welcome...I’ll keep In touch!
Thanks!
I have Taco 007-F5-71FC right now in my system. Can you tell me please on which model can I change it which have more power? Because right now it not enough power for two floors? Thank you!
I came across one where the pump assembly is rotting out. Roughly 10 years old. Is this due to lack of maintenance, and proper draining of the lines every so often?
The floors are vibrating can the new circulator pump be the issue?. Floor was not vibrating prior to installing the new pump. Please advise. ThankYou
Really enjoyed your video/s. you are a great instructor, so keep up the good work!
I appreciate that!
What would cause one zone to continuously circulate?
Very good job, sir, 👍
Many thanks
is the pump supposed to generate magnetic field as the boiler switch is on
or
only when the pump is actively engaging?
Thank you for these informations.
Can you tell me what should be the circulation pump’s body temberature while working?
Since I found it very very hot when I touch it,
Thanks
Would a noisy circulator pump cause the pressure relief valve on the boiler to open up as well? I checked the pressure and it was around 20 psi and temperature was around 150-160 F, no problem there. So I'm not sure if the circulator pump is the problem or now I'm thinking maybe the expansion tank?
That was good. I think I should shut my system down and wait till Monday and get some oil, though it could just be the start capacitor but I can't do the stairs again today. I did get it spinning by jamming a sacrificial piece of plastic into the clutch and pushed. So at least I know that The motor works.
What kind of oil should I use for a circle pump like the red one you showed around @8:43 the larger one?
zoom spout oil, thanks!
@@acservicetechchannel thank you for letting me know! My pump stopped making the humming noise instantly.
Just SUPERB 😀
Very nice! Wondering if you have encountered a pulsing in the pump (primary), frequency approx 10 times per second, pressure surges at same frequency approx 3 psi, audible upstairs. Any suggestions? Bad bearings, blockage? The system is only 6 years old.
ThankYou for Sharing this invaluable information. Can A Grunfos Alpha 2 circulating pump work with a Burnham boiler?
My circulation pump is like the one before the red one and there's no noise at all there's no current going into the motor L1 wire, no shut off valves above or below the pump housing any advice how to stop water from leaking down out when I replace it?😕
Thank you so much I learn so much from your videos keep up the great work
Thank you for your support!!
My problem is #5 and I guess the builder never hooked the pump up to power. It's located in a box outside on the house next to the AC unit. I have a leak from the Taco pump but I can't seem to find a new O ring anywhere, do you know where I could find one? the Model number is 006-BC5Y-1 any help is appriciated.
Fantastic, Thanks so much.
Glad you enjoyed it!
He just saved me some money. My pump was the red pump. Went into the basement and oiled it in all three ports. NO MORE noise.
what oil
Use 3 in 1
B& g are tanks and easy to repair, Noisier than taco but last 4 ever
Do you have a book about heating systems?
Call for heat… fan comes on, circ pump relay on Taco 3 zone controller barely clicks. Circ pump doesn’t come on? Intermittent issue. Thoughts?
i have a question... i bought my house a few years ago. and they system works great. the boiler was manufactured in 1963 (IIRC) its old.. but it works perfectly.
ok my question.... i don't have zones. its all one zone.. would they have built it consecutively or would each room go to a junction and feed back to the storage tank??
Also, there are times when it sound like water going through the radiator. like I don't think its 100% full of water...
are they systems designed to be topped off.... or are they only filled up so much.. to make room for expansion when the water is heated...???...
sorry this is all new technology to me... every house i have ever lived in has had force air system...
This house also has a heat pump. with a back up heat grid... so I have 3 different ways to heat my house..
However, its was built at the end of the 19th century. so electric is stupid expensive to heat with.
I recently purchased a outdoor boiler with 2 water circulator output. One is ging to the house one to my shop. Both have circulation pumps. Nrf 25 to the house and nrf36 to the shop. That's bell gossett pumps. The one to the house works quiet and the one to the shop is working relatively laud. The laud one sounds like it has air inside the pump. I drained the line back into the boiler with a garden hose and pump running. But that didn't solve the problem. Is it possible that the pump itself got weak? Or inside damage so it creates vaccum/air within the pump that gets pushed into the system?
The thermostat electrical connector caps were touching making the Fasco blower, and possible the Taco Cartridge circulator continues to run until I pull the caps away from each other, then the blower stopped.
Question: could there be a bad wire inside the connectors or can electric caps insulation go bad?
I am thinking of having an electrician totally rewire the thermostat wiring from the house thermostat to the boiler control unit.
Any thoughts or suggestions are appreciated?
Hi, my system is approx 10 years old. Circulator was replaced approx 3 years ago. Recently (august 2021) Why will circulator motor not shut off, thermostat is set at 40*F. Circ motor is hot. That loop is cold. I just purged the entire system (Circulator #1 in question has 2 heating zones with zone valves. Circulator #2 is for indirect domestic HW & no zone valve). Why will circ#1 not shut off?
Another awesome video!
Thanks a lot Carl!
what do you do if it dry when you motor off felt no water in the circulator
When my unit, four zones, was built two guys did the work. Looking at the first thing the B team guy did, I told the A team guy that I’m going to have to look at this system for a long long time. So the A team guy sent b guy off doing other stuff. A guy built a great four zone manifold system that was, “Instrument Fitter” quality work, perfectly plumb and level and square. . The B team guy soldered pipes out in the zone manifolds and used an old worn wire brush cleaning the insides of the copper pipes. We ended up opening the system at the pumps taking out broken wires from an old worn out soldering brush the dummy brought with him !
oops!
Craig what's best side for a circ pump to be on a boiler coming off the supply side or coming off the return side
just found this video just keep them coming, do you have any on radiant heating ??
Thank you, just on controls such as zone valves, aquastat, zone control relay, thanks!
Out of curiosity if you have say 4 zones and 1 zone does not have water at a bleed valve, is it possible there is no water because the circulator pump locked up? or would it be more likely the bleed valve is not working? (its -26 ) and I am not taking the boiler offline or changing water if I can help it and everything else seems fine and working?
More than likely the zone was frozen for that extreme cold weather
nice video ty for it.
Not sure if this is the place to ask but I have a switching relay (Honeywell RA89A) that turns on my boiler contacters but my circulating pump is wired directly to a breaker and runs 24/7. I'd like to add a surface mounted temp control (was looking at a Johnson Controls A19DAC-1C, 100 to 240 deg F) to the pump circuit. Would I need to add another switching relay to do this, or do these temp controls switch 110V on their own?
I wonder - in a 4 zone boiler - can defective circulator pump do the job for 3 zones and not to the forth zone?
No.
video from a pro, we can tell; thanks
Good stuff as always sir!
Thanks Tomon8tor!
I have a taco 0011-f4 pump, can the impeller get worn down and only pump a small amount, about 3 pm? How can I tell what the problem is?
Cavitation can definitely wear an impeller down to nothing.
Good stuff
Glad you enjoyed
Very detailed and educational video, thanks :)
Glad it was helpful!
Can we do an amp draw test to see if the pump is running?
I had a grundfos airlocked and was able to bleed out the air through the same access used to unlock the motor. Is that there for air bleeding purposes as well?? Great vids, long time subscriber...
Not necessarily because the hole is not built out to the end of the casing but could be done if needed, thanks!
My building I live in uses water heating and that pump they had was so noise you could hear it vibrating through the baseboard heating. Landlords finally got some guys in to replace it now it’s so silent I’m not use too it lol. I still hear little buzzing but not really loud anymore. Mostly just hear the water moving
You are amazing. Thank you so much!
Glad to help Will and check out our website at www.acservicetech.com thanks!
Nice Instructional video! Thanks. Do you think Grundfos pumps are as good or better than Taco? I like how Grundfos has the shaft testing access.
Yes Grundfos are very nice in reference to that!
Please HELP!!
Bell and Gossettt Series #100
Power getting to the pump: 122V
Pump motor not turning with power but seems to turn freely with my screwdriver.
I did try the Resistance test. I think I got 0.L (gonna look again)
Electrical windings fried ??
My problem is that I cannot have both my floors heating system on, if I put on the 1st floor, my second floor shuts off and vice versa. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
It may be setup to use a priority zone.
My pump was not circulating water and was making a very high pitch squeeling sound. With online help from a relative, I was advised that the impeller was likely stuck and the high pitch sound was the shaft spinning. He said try hitting it with a wrench to get it spinning, which I did. The impeller then was spinning again and water was circulating. I believe this problem was caused because a repairman left my water supply off after a small leak repair. It was off for almost 2 weeks. Does anyone think that this pump is now compromised and that the company should pay to replace this pump?
Guys why there is a flow of electricity everywhere in the boiler except the pump??
Faulty ground somewhere? I’d definitely call out an electrician.
@@Alex-jo2oi Aquastat likely bad if boiler is at high limit temperature.
I have the larger red style pump. when i bought my house the seller showed me how to oil they system.. but he only showed me the 1 oil port on the propeller. learn something new every day.
now to replace the o ring cause its leaking at the flange....
Can't find anyone who sells just the Taco motors.
Exactly what I needed, believe my impeller is seized in the Taco Circulator Pump. Hit it with a hammer worked...
The old caveman method. Might have to try that out on mine.
We're always thankful for the information you share, but It would be *much* better if you used the term "Micro Farad", instead of "UF".
Even though we understand, the Unit Of Measurement is microfarads, not UF's. It's the same as the movie Back To The Future: He uses the term "Jigga-Watts" instead of "Gigawatts".
You'll be teaching the incorrect unit pronunciation/terms to new students.
Regardless of my pet peeve, thanks for sharing.
I'm fine turning wrenches, but the stuff with angry fairies always throws me off.
12 to 15 psig cold
20 to 22 psig hot
UF is pronounced microfarad :)
Sleeve pump cartridge replacement you didn't show them that that's what you do k your welcome?!!!
Solutions 😡?
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