The bushing side of the new part has to be tightened when the wheel is on and at ride height! Not doing so causes the bushing to crack and fail prematurely!
I learned that to prevent torsion forces on the bushing, one is supposed to tighten the last screw on the thrust arm once the car is off the jack. The logic being that if done otherwise, when you lower the car, the bushing will be loaded permentently when the car is not moving. Ideally, the bushing should be under stress when one is driving and exposing the wheels to the road's holes. Hope this helps.
Hey buddy I like your video it’s very detailed unlike others . I have a question about my 2011 E class coupe that you can probably help me with. I changed my struts and now my lower thrust arm is touching my sway bar so how do I adjust or fix that ?
Great vid... I was wondering if you could pop the ball joint out before disassembling everything just to get it loose even tho it will not travel very far. Also everytime I use that balljoint seperator I notice the metal washer on some of the ball joints pops out. How are you able to do it without popping those things out?
Thank you for educating me you are through thank you for showing me location of thrust arms or control arms I was inform by Firestone I had to have all my camber bolts replace could not get alignment because I was to far neg on pass side 400+ I said I will wait Mercedes offered free look at today will inform of results and will return all bolts purchased on line be safe at all cost you train to conserve and educate others thank you michele
Yes you should. You can simulate the car on the ground by placing it on those plastic car ramps or by jacking up the suspension assembly to roughly the ride height of the car and tightening the bolt there.
The main ball joint requires you to remove the front rearward lower control arm. Then you will need to press out the old ball joint and press In a new ball joint.
Technically you should. However that’s why I said to mark the bolts prior to removing them. At least you can put them back in relatively the same spot.
Hey, I just bought a 2004 clk 320. It was pulled around on the flatbed a few times before I bought it. When I Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, the wheel tilts very extremely top out. Any ideas what I might look for to fix this?
Usually some shimmy movement when braking (hard to tell if the rotors are warped as well) You would want to get down and inspect the arms/bushings closely.
Some of the bolts have notches in them. Those correspond to little protrusions inside the control arm bushing. It is possible that some of these bolts have been replaced by standard bolts in the past OR that some already have preset suspension settings and therefore have no adjustment.
Is this for the 4matic? There is a big price difference between the RWD vs the 4matic for that arm 2-3x the price There is a kit that you can either ratchet or use your drill to push the bushing out…reverse for the install..once you pop that bolt out… 5min to push the bushing out 🤔 I dunno maybe here in Canada they just rape us lol
4matic would definitely be more labor intensive for this job as the arms are different and designed differently due to the front cv shafts being in the way. This car is a RWD car.
The bushing side of the new part has to be tightened when the wheel is on and at ride height! Not doing so causes the bushing to crack and fail prematurely!
Using a floor jack underneath to compress the suspension will work as well. I use the jack until I see the car begin to unweight from the jack stand.
very correct!
@@williamsmothers8830 Then use a good tape measure to measure from the wheel hub to the edge of the fender
I learned that to prevent torsion forces on the bushing, one is supposed to tighten the last screw on the thrust arm once the car is off the jack. The logic being that if done otherwise, when you lower the car, the bushing will be loaded permentently when the car is not moving. Ideally, the bushing should be under stress when one is driving and exposing the wheels to the road's holes. Hope this helps.
A fantastic video, well narrated and videotaped.
Cheers.
Really a great video. I'm going to tackle this next week and your detailed step by step really helpful, keep up the good work!!!
Excellent video, thanks to your practical tutorial I was able to do mine this weekend. Great help! much appreciated.
How long it took you ?
Hey buddy I like your video it’s very detailed unlike others . I have a question about my 2011 E class coupe that you can probably help me with. I changed my struts and now my lower thrust arm is touching my sway bar so how do I adjust or fix that ?
Great vid... I was wondering if you could pop the ball joint out before disassembling everything just to get it loose even tho it will not travel very far. Also everytime I use that balljoint seperator I notice the metal washer on some of the ball joints pops out. How are you able to do it without popping those things out?
Very good video explanation of the process!
why didnt you put the bolt back in the other way so yuo dont have to remove antiroll bar sway bar
$100 part but a HUGE pain without a lift and good tools 😡 🛠️
Done it before but won’t again!
Good video 👍
You don't necessarily need a lifting platform for this. With a solid jack and jack stands it can also be repaired very easily!
Superb illustration👍🏾……only critique safety glasses ❤️
Thank you for educating me you are through thank you for showing me location of thrust arms or control arms I was inform by Firestone I had to have all my camber bolts replace could not get alignment because I was to far neg on pass side 400+ I said I will wait Mercedes offered free look at today will inform of results and will return all bolts purchased on line be safe at all cost you train to conserve and educate others thank you michele
The problem most likely lies in the rubber bushings snide the arms. The bolts don’t go bad but the bushings certainly do.
Is it true you need to torque the thrust arms nut while the car rests on the floor? if so were you still able to reach the nut? thanks
Yes you should. You can simulate the car on the ground by placing it on those plastic car ramps or by jacking up the suspension assembly to roughly the ride height of the car and tightening the bolt there.
How can you undo bolts without grunting or making any noise? Amazing! I just paid Mercedes-Benz $755 to have this done.
Leverage my friend, leverage.
I have a Mercedes CLS, the arm mounting on the wheel side is different. does not require disassembly of these elements;)
Hello I have a cls500 2006, what do I need to take off in order to change my lower ball joints?
The main ball joint requires you to remove the front rearward lower control arm. Then you will need to press out the old ball joint and press In a new ball joint.
Nice work.
what is the torque set at in lbs for the upper and lower control arms? please help!
Good job I need to do this on mine 👍🏻
Excellent.
Great video! Do you need an alignment after?
Technically you should. However that’s why I said to mark the bolts prior to removing them. At least you can put them back in relatively the same spot.
Is the arm u changed called uper control arm or lower control arm?
It’s called a thrust arm. It’s in the title of the video.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepairis the other one that is in the back called also thrust arm?
@mariglenkaraj7515 front lower control arm. Sometimes listed as “front lower rearward”
Hey, I just bought a 2004 clk 320. It was pulled around on the flatbed a few times before I bought it. When I Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, the wheel tilts very extremely top out. Any ideas what I might look for to fix this?
That’s normal at full lock
No torque spec mentioned? Would like if you listed them.
I’m sure they are all over the internet
Did you order the part from Mercedes themselves or third party
FCPeuro.com
Every 40-60k depending your driving style
What is the symptoms of this control arm
Usually some shimmy movement when braking (hard to tell if the rotors are warped as well) You would want to get down and inspect the arms/bushings closely.
Is it the same as 2002 c320 ?
Should be
can you tell me the torque specs?
59 ft lbs. + 120 degrees. For the ball joint and the thrust arm nut.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair thank you for your quick response! do you eventually know the torque specs for the ones around the shock absorber too?
@@sinistarts I don’t know all of them off hand. I’m sure google will have your answer. Try searching W203 shock torque specs.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair is it same for 2002 c320 as well? Thank you
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Are these torque specs same as 2002 c320 sedan 4 doors?
Excellent video . . . . Thanks
Very good 🙂
I don’t see any adjustment on that bolt at all. It looks like a standard bolt to me matey
Some of the bolts have notches in them. Those correspond to little protrusions inside the control arm bushing. It is possible that some of these bolts have been replaced by standard bolts in the past OR that some already have preset suspension settings and therefore have no adjustment.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair ahhh ok
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair you mean the groove that runs the length of the bolt through the shank and thread?
Don't have a mercedes. Good to know anyway
Is this for the 4matic? There is a big price difference between the RWD vs the 4matic for that arm 2-3x the price
There is a kit that you can either ratchet or use your drill to push the bushing out…reverse for the install..once you pop that bolt out… 5min to push the bushing out 🤔 I dunno maybe here in Canada they just rape us lol
4matic would definitely be more labor intensive for this job as the arms are different and designed differently due to the front cv shafts being in the way.
This car is a RWD car.
👍.
cery poor work