You’re the man. Thanks for all these videos. It really helps when you own a c class and can’t find any other crap online to help solve issues! Hope you don’t stop!
Bro I'm so glad that you out of all people drive the same car as I do and always upload these fire videos. I want to keep my 204 running for as long as possible and you make that possible.
Thanks! My 2010 C300 is in the shop right now for the front end clunking. Struts were replaced last year about this same time, and no clunks then. But now...it's driving me crazy with the noise. This vid shows me what might be the issue.
Dude you are God sent! Seem as if most MB models have the same recurring issues. Good to see what others are doing to rectify their issues. Keep them coming.
Thanks for the great content as always brother! I’ve actually been needing to do this to my car and I actually have some parts on my Amazon and eBay accounts saved up that I need to get and this is one of those parts. Keep up the good work as always
Depending on how worn they are, if the lubcrication/rubber has completely disintegrated you will get a HORRIBLE squeal when you are driving, yet it stops when you are braking. I found that out through experience.
Just a tip but I recently put performance/adjustable sway bar links on mine, and whether stock or not they have to be on a actual Vehicle Lift for proper Pre-load, jacking up that part of the suspension wont give you the correct Pre-Load. If they are installed with the load slightly off even if you don't notice it this will cause the sway bar links to give out very quickly or wear a lot faster. If there is proper Pre Load applied and they still wear out quickly, that usually means their is something wrong with another suspension part. Sway Bar Links are more of a fail safe in case another part of suspension goes out. Just a tip for next time!
Does the excessive wear occur on the ball joint because the ball joint won't have its full range of motion afterwards if it hasn't been pre-loaded because it won't be in the neutral position when the weight is on the wheel and the car is in a flat surface? I found that the end links bolting surface must be lined up perfectly flat with the strut bracket bolt hole bracket at the top and with sway bar bolt hole surface at the bottom, otherwise the ball joint bolt comes in at a slight angle into the holes, and you end up with a small gap between the end link and the strut bracket at the top at the bolt point and sway bar at the bottom when you tighten fully (98NM), (causing the noises later ?). Anyway that's how I did it because I don't have a vehcile lift and on the ground I can see the bottom ball is in the neutral position, it sits flush up against the sway bar, and the sway bar is horizontal to the ground. No noises, drives straight, steering feels much tighter and even in both sides, the car sits flatter on cornering. See what happens I guess.
Potential silly question but what do you mean by pre-load? I changed my sway links by jacking the car up in the middle pad at the front and removed wheels, changed links (I didn’t have anything under the control arms taking any weight etc) just removed old ones and new ones straight in.
I thought you was going to address the problem of " WHY" the links fail so quickly. As per your video title. Anyhow thanks for the tutorial....good job.
Picked up a w204 not too long ago and have been watching your videos to learn what possible mods I can do to my car. Appreciate the content man! Also live in MA, would love to get together!
Dude thank you so much. I am having this same problem in mine and for the longest time I had no idea what it was. I knew I needed suspension stuff fixed but now I know what👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿
Very good instructional video the only issue I have is that I don't have the room to maneuver to the right side of the sway bar link... as you clierly seem to have? I witnessed you jacking up the vehicle on the front right side, however you camera angle on the inside appeared to allow for headroom? Please help understand how I can do this unless I am on my back?
Owning a Mercedes is nice, but it's a never ending story with clunking and clicking, and when done all that you find out the suspension top bushes also need doing! 😭
Not me. Only had this 1 issue due to normal wear and tear. And I had 1 extended warranty part replacement and that’s it. Was a great car. That’s why I bought another Mercedes.
here is a discussion about this: superpro.com.au/how-to-install-sway-bar-link ( yes it is about after-market adjustable end links but the principle is the same- the end links must be fitted in a neutral position with the wheels under normal static load on a special hoist if they are not it will not be possible to have them tighten flush against the strut bracket or to the sway bar because the bolt of the end link ball joint will not come in the right angle. This will limit the full movement of the ball joint as the car is being driven and steered over uneven roads causing early failure which is what I think might have happened to your previous pair of end links that failed quickly
Great video I change mines 10,000 miles ago and now I have clunking noise like crazy I think this time it’s going to be the tie road ends because on the freeway the car move a lot do you experience the same thing on your car ?
Great video! Quick question. I notice you using a floor jack. Are you lifting on the rectangular inserts on the sill with some sort of block on the jack or are you lifting from another point?
Yeah...the worst part for the benz is being able to use a torx bit or hex bit to hold the swaybar link shaft in place while taking the nut off. Especially on the lower nut. And if you strip that hole for the torx bit/hex bit, you are kinda screwed unless you cut off the nut.
I had the same exact noise. I replaced my sway bar links and the issue was fixed. Then a few days later the noise came back. Now I’m confused as to what it might be.
@@TheFlexxGarage I'm 90% sure I installed them properly. It was pretty straightforward. But I'll definitely check again. The new ones that came in were not very stiff but I assume that's how it is.
Did you preload them before tightening the bolt? Cause that’s where people make the mistake. They let it hang, tighten the bolt, and thinks it’s fully tightened. And when you lower the car, the weight of the car is now on the links and it will expose areas where it’s not tightened all the way.
I have the same issue! However it goes away when i increase tyre pressure but returns when tyre pressure drops. Only happens when going over bumps and it clunks from the right side.
Hey Flexx great vid, I have a 2013 E400 love the car, but it does the same over the bumps as well? Mine has the airmatic suspension which I thought was about the best of all, but still doesn't handle the real bumps like potholes etc?
Hey, Flexx. How are you? Not sure if you are going to see this message as the upload is 3 years old. I have a 2021 C180 Touring that I'm tuning. I'm looking to handling mods at the moment and stumbled across some Eibach sway bars and Whiteline end links. However, I was checking my car and it seems there is no read sway bar, is that the same with the C250? I saw that you just swapped the front end links, so I got curious. Thanks. Cheers, Akamine.
Hey flex love the videos and I wanted to see if you can make or show how to remove and replace a axle for the 2012 C300 4matic I don’t have a lot of money to take it in so want to do it my self please and thank you
Have you ever had an issue with a high pitched squeaking coming from room the driver side door when playing music? If not do you know what it could be and how I can fix it?
My c300 with 150,000 miles on it recently is making a clunking noise from both front and back on the passenger side and it happens when I’m driving normally also
Hello Flex, had the same issue with my W205 C43 AMG. Had dealership do the work, in addition, they claimed an alignment was needed after changing these links out. Do you agree?
Geez they are ready to eat that money you earned hard. Alignment shouldn't be needed if tire wear is equal and you replaced them for OEM or OEM like parts.
Hey Flex, I will be doing this job soon on my 204. What is the torque spec you used to tighten the locking nut? Did you use a specific one or just go as snug as possible?
I just broke a T40 torx bit after using PB blaster on the top nut. Had to pause the job because I could not remove the top nut. Have you ever had to cut one off because you couldn't remove the but with a torx bit?
Yea. I did the same thing in the other side. I used a “nut splitter” to “cut” off the nut. You can get them almost anywhere. Worked perfectly. Just gotta buy the correct size that can fit over the nut.
Hey bro, what's the worst that can happen if I don't replace my stabilizer links? I've got a w203 and I think it's the same problem. Upon driving on bumps, it makes this horrible sound. Btw, how much did you pay for the passenger and driver links?
its wears and wears and can snap, making your car have more body roll when turning and losing steering performance which is a huge hazard not only for you but other people on the road. They are like under $100 for a pair.
Have you met the problem about camshaft position sensor bank1 where the issue is not the sensor or magnet but after some research looks like it is a common failure for a c250 do you have any advice or maybe a video?
Common problem. Camshaft adjuster is worn and timing is completely off. Keep driving and your engine will probably break down. It’s a $1500-$2500 repair. Go to a specialized German car shop if you want to save money. There’s no DIY for this.
I bet you get a lot of race hungry drivers that pull up next you. I drive a e350 nothing super fast,but BMW drivers always seem to want smoke at stop lights or highway
Mercedes part# 000000003276, it's just a grade 10.9 M12X1.5 lock nut. $2.40 each at MB dealer. I bought a few from the dealer and still haven't used them, I resued the old nuts and they work fine. I've had my car apart so many times, struts, control arms, coil springs, and yet to use a "new" nut or bolt. I just clean them up with a brass brush to clean out all the old loctite Mercedes loves using. Just replaced some rusty rear dust shields this weekend and reused all the hardware, though I did replace the brake pad hold down springs, part# 2014230592 for 70 cents each at MB dealer.
I have a w212 e class....its making clunking noise on light bumpy roads....taken I to 2 garages and still a year on no 1 can find the problem...they hand move the drop links and say they fine...I've had 4 springs changed and the front shocks..plz can u advise me if hand moving the sway bar links can tell u that the links are worn...thanks
pretty sure it's your shocks or the sway bar links. Note, you can't just diagnose the issues with worn sway bar links by using your hand unless they are super worn out. When a car is driving and hittin bumps, there's thousands of pounds put on these links and shocks. If there's even a little give, the weight of the car will make it known (as a clunk, rattle, etc..). A hand does not have enough force to "diagnose" the issue. I would find a reputable shop that works on Mercedes.
@@TheFlexxGarage many thanks for the reply flexx...I will take the car to another garage or will get the front sway bar links changed first as the shocks have been done....my car is a e250cdi sport...and after getting the rear springs from dealers the rear height is super high...dealer says it will have a red and green mark on the springs which are correct....but I've seen on the net that for sport models it's a red red green dots on the springs for sports springs
Hey flexxx I watch you videos on UA-cam. I was having trouble and was wondering if you can help me out trying or replace sway bar link on my w213 e300 (2017) and I watched you video on replacing sway bar link however my lower part of the way bar is different attachment then your do you have any idea how to take this off ?
Why they fail so quickly..? Mercedes' double wishbone suspension eats any moving parts if they are not correctly installed... When I install something new on mine, I always lightly pretighten it first, then I put full weight on the wheel, and then I tighten it to spec..
@rvidal0001 to properly tighten these, you need a set of through sockets. harbor freight sells a kit that's pretty reasonable. www.harborfreight.com/sae-metric-go-thru-socket-set-21-pc-62305.html
Just changed mine on a w205 it's the third time first two the dealership changed it under warranty.. it would of been nice to see the bottom part of the link but my guy didn't show that part.. I have a video if anyone needs help lmk
FCP Euro. I buy all the high wear parts from them for there lifetime warranty replacement. They warranty everything even brake pads, rotors, windshield wipers etc..
Don’t know. Could just be a cheap part or poor design or just the nature of the piece. I would rather have this piece start to fail and i pay small money to replace it several times before i have to replace other larger, more expensive suspension components.
@@TheFlexxGarage Its because the front shocks are starting to wear out. These cars dont have any upper control arms so when there is a play in the shocks the sway bar links fails very quickly. If you change the shocks aswell, the sway bar links will last much longer :)
Hy. Any shakes at high speeds? Thanks. I don't hear this sound in the car and I have a little play in the front right wheel. (could be the bearing a bit loose?) Thanks.
No sound. You have another issue if you have shakes. Alignment, bearing, loose lug nuts, uneven tire wear, tie rod ends, etc. Get the car jacked up and get it diagnosed before things get worse.
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You’re the man. Thanks for all these videos. It really helps when you own a c class and can’t find any other crap online to help solve issues! Hope you don’t stop!
😎🤙🏼
Bro I'm so glad that you out of all people drive the same car as I do and always upload these fire videos. I want to keep my 204 running for as long as possible and you make that possible.
Yup. My goal is to bring you guys everything I experience with this car. Good and bad.
Flexx your the man. Done my Indicator Dynamic Turn signals using your video. Hopefully this cures this issue as well. Thanks for the upload.
Thanks! My 2010 C300 is in the shop right now for the front end clunking. Struts were replaced last year about this same time, and no clunks then. But now...it's driving me crazy with the noise. This vid shows me what might be the issue.
Dude you are God sent! Seem as if most MB models have the same recurring issues. Good to see what others are doing to rectify their issues. Keep them coming.
Thanks for the great content as always brother! I’ve actually been needing to do this to my car and I actually have some parts on my Amazon and eBay accounts saved up that I need to get and this is one of those parts. Keep up the good work as always
Good work Sir, I've got the clunking from my w204, I'm going to order a new pair and do the job next weekend.
Many thanks from Manchester UK
Best of luck!
if they fail again get whiteline links much better construction and you will notice a 30 percent or so improvement in handling. Great video!!
Nice one flex, got a knocking on drivers side didn’t know if it was droplinks
Did you find the problem? I got the same issue I don't know what exactly it is
10 years and 160k miles on my e class and nothing yet. Still original front end.
My A class has just started mak8ng the clunk sound when turning, I’ll get the wheels off and see if the bars are loose, excellent guide 👍🏻
What seems the problem bro? Did u fix it?
Thanks for the video man. Mine started to make the same sound a couple months ago. Amazing!
Edit: not exactly the same sound, but mine squeaks.
Depending on how worn they are, if the lubcrication/rubber has completely disintegrated you will get a HORRIBLE squeal when you are driving, yet it stops when you are braking. I found that out through experience.
Just a tip but I recently put performance/adjustable sway bar links on mine, and whether stock or not they have to be on a actual Vehicle Lift for proper Pre-load, jacking up that part of the suspension wont give you the correct Pre-Load. If they are installed with the load slightly off even if you don't notice it this will cause the sway bar links to give out very quickly or wear a lot faster. If there is proper Pre Load applied and they still wear out quickly, that usually means their is something wrong with another suspension part. Sway Bar Links are more of a fail safe in case another part of suspension goes out. Just a tip for next time!
Does the excessive wear occur on the ball joint because the ball joint won't have its full range of motion afterwards if it hasn't been pre-loaded because it won't be in the neutral position when the weight is on the wheel and the car is in a flat surface? I found that the end links bolting surface must be lined up perfectly flat with the strut bracket bolt hole bracket at the top and with sway bar bolt hole surface at the bottom, otherwise the ball joint bolt comes in at a slight angle into the holes, and you end up with a small gap between the end link and the strut bracket at the top at the bolt point and sway bar at the bottom when you tighten fully (98NM), (causing the noises later ?). Anyway that's how I did it because I don't have a vehcile lift and on the ground I can see the bottom ball is in the neutral position, it sits flush up against the sway bar, and the sway bar is horizontal to the ground. No noises, drives straight, steering feels much tighter and even in both sides, the car sits flatter on cornering. See what happens I guess.
Potential silly question but what do you mean by pre-load? I changed my sway links by jacking the car up in the middle pad at the front and removed wheels, changed links (I didn’t have anything under the control arms taking any weight etc) just removed old ones and new ones straight in.
I thought you was going to address the problem of " WHY" the links fail so quickly. As per your video title. Anyhow thanks for the tutorial....good job.
The quality is just terrible. That’s all.
I've changed my end links twice already. Seems like they fail every year.I thought Lemforder would be better than that.@@TheFlexxGarage
same here, twice in 6 months@@bianbian428
If you have lowered suspension that's why. You should install drop links longer the same amount you lowered your suspension.
@bianbian428 I just used new lemforders last year and the rubber already splitting
Picked up a w204 not too long ago and have been watching your videos to learn what possible mods I can do to my car. Appreciate the content man! Also live in MA, would love to get together!
W204 in MA, probably start with replacing all the bushings, replace rusty struts and coil springs, engine mounts, subframe mounts.
Dude thank you so much. I am having this same problem in mine and for the longest time I had no idea what it was. I knew I needed suspension stuff fixed but now I know what👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿
Thank you Flexx...
This might be my culprit! Great video!
Very good instructional video the only issue I have is that I don't have the room to maneuver to the right side of the sway bar link... as you clierly seem to have? I witnessed you jacking up the vehicle on the front right side, however you camera angle on the inside appeared to allow for headroom? Please help understand how I can do this unless I am on my back?
Another one! 🔥
Owning a Mercedes is nice, but it's a never ending story with clunking and clicking, and when done all that you find out the suspension top bushes also need doing! 😭
Not me. Only had this 1 issue due to normal wear and tear. And I had 1 extended warranty part replacement and that’s it. Was a great car. That’s why I bought another Mercedes.
Should be able to get around 80k-100k km's. Need to make sure the end links tighten up flush with the strut bracket surface and the sway bar.
here is a discussion about this: superpro.com.au/how-to-install-sway-bar-link
( yes it is about after-market adjustable end links but the principle is the same- the end links must be fitted in a neutral position with the wheels under normal static load on a special hoist
if they are not it will not be possible to have them tighten flush against the strut bracket or to the sway bar because the bolt of the end link ball joint will not come in the right angle. This will limit the full movement of the ball joint as the car is being driven and steered over uneven roads causing early failure which is what I think might have happened to your previous pair of end links that failed quickly
thanks again always good to know
Just ordered mine thx flex
Thank you!
Great video I change mines 10,000 miles ago and now I have clunking noise like crazy I think this time it’s going to be the tie road ends because on the freeway the car move a lot do you experience the same thing on your car ?
Thank you.
Thanks for the vid I have to do mine on my Mercedes c300 sport
Great video. Very useful. Thanks
Very nice! Mine the clunky noises occurs only in bumps or degraded road. Is that the same parts? Anti roll bar links.
Yes. Possibly. Or you might have shock issues. I recommend you get it checked out by a shop before it gets worse.
Flexx love your videos! I would have gotten the torque spec for it, your sway bar links may last longer.
Thank you bro saved me
Is it really necessary to tighten up the link bolts while there was a load on the wheel?
Hello flexx, I would love to see a video about how to clean throttle body and injectors for C class please ,, with best of wishes 👍🏻
What is the perfect tool to switch the sway bars? My MB hit the 60 000 k 5 years later than your's did. But anyway, nice video ❤😂🎉
Massachusetts ftw woop woop 🙌
Great video! Quick question. I notice you using a floor jack. Are you lifting on the rectangular inserts on the sill with some sort of block on the jack or are you lifting from another point?
Lifting it where the jacking point is on a c-class. My floorjack has a wide, round, flat rubber plate. I don't need a block.
These are heavy cars with tight running tolerances. Depending on the roads the parts will wear quicker than a lighter car.
I remember doing my endlinks. Was one of the most annoying things to do...
Yeah...the worst part for the benz is being able to use a torx bit or hex bit to hold the swaybar link shaft in place while taking the nut off. Especially on the lower nut. And if you strip that hole for the torx bit/hex bit, you are kinda screwed unless you cut off the nut.
I had the same exact noise. I replaced my sway bar links and the issue was fixed. Then a few days later the noise came back. Now I’m confused as to what it might be.
Wasn’t Installed properly then. Cause if there’s even a slight play…it will keep making the clicking noise (even if it’s new).
@@TheFlexxGarage I'm 90% sure I installed them properly. It was pretty straightforward. But I'll definitely check again. The new ones that came in were not very stiff but I assume that's how it is.
Did you preload them before tightening the bolt? Cause that’s where people make the mistake. They let it hang, tighten the bolt, and thinks it’s fully tightened. And when you lower the car, the weight of the car is now on the links and it will expose areas where it’s not tightened all the way.
@@TheFlexxGarage that's probably it. Definitely missed that step lol. Thanks!
I had the same exact issue and it turns out I didnt tighten one of the nuts enough. Retightening everything again solved the noise issue
I have the same issue! However it goes away when i increase tyre pressure but returns when tyre pressure drops. Only happens when going over bumps and it clunks from the right side.
I just came across your vid and I had mines replaced this week. I have 72k on mines
Hey Flexx great vid, I have a 2013 E400 love the car, but it does the same over the bumps as well? Mine has the airmatic suspension which I thought was about the best of all, but still doesn't handle the real bumps like potholes etc?
Ever replaced control arms? My lower ones go out every year I’m thinking something is bent
I had to change the sway bar every 20000km. Swaybar hates bad roads
yup...it's pretty crappy. I hear you.
Hey Super Flexx, how long did it take to do both side? What is the year and model of your Mercedes? It looks like a 2012 sports coupe 250c
been looking to fix that clunking for a while on my mercedes, annoying asf!
Clunking could be suspension as well but always check the sway bar links first since they are notorious to easily go.
Hey, Flexx.
How are you? Not sure if you are going to see this message as the upload is 3 years old.
I have a 2021 C180 Touring that I'm tuning. I'm looking to handling mods at the moment and stumbled across some Eibach sway bars and Whiteline end links.
However, I was checking my car and it seems there is no read sway bar, is that the same with the C250? I saw that you just swapped the front end links, so I got curious.
Thanks.
Cheers,
Akamine.
Hey flex, love your channel awesome. Could you do a video on updating satnav if that's any use to you? Not many videos around for a 2011 c220 coupe
Hey flex love the videos and I wanted to see if you can make or show how to remove and replace a axle for the 2012 C300 4matic I don’t have a lot of money to take it in so want to do it my self please and thank you
Does spinning the torx part damage the sway bar bushing?
depends on the roads ,, I don'thave a Mercedes ,I replaced my links at around 50,000 miles good or not good..
Have you ever had an issue with a high pitched squeaking coming from room the driver side door when playing music? If not do you know what it could be and how I can fix it?
Another great video.
My c300 with 150,000 miles on it recently is making a clunking noise from both front and back on the passenger side and it happens when I’m driving normally also
How much do these sway bars cost roughly? And what brand did you get?
Hello Flex, had the same issue with my W205 C43 AMG. Had dealership do the work, in addition, they claimed an alignment was needed after changing these links out. Do you agree?
In my opinion (and I’m not a mechanic), I don’t think its needed unless your car is due for an alignment or you went with longer or shorter links.
Geez they are ready to eat that money you earned hard.
Alignment shouldn't be needed if tire wear is equal and you replaced them for OEM or OEM like parts.
Yoy don't need an alignment when only replacing sway bar links. Other suspension parts being replaced will require realignment after changing
Good video
Hey bro plz can you make a video to show us about the auxiliary battery for the class c400 and how to change it and the best prices !!!!??
Thanx bro
Hey Flex, I will be doing this job soon on my 204. What is the torque spec you used to tighten the locking nut? Did you use a specific one or just go as snug as possible?
I just went as tight as it will allow. And for these damn links, they have to be super tight or else it will click over bumps.
Sounds good. I've been scrounging around on the internet and haven't found anything concrete or consistent. Thanks for the help man. Appreciate it!
Great video!!!
Nice. Where did you get the yellow brake caliper cover? Cool. I want some for my 2014 no 350
go watch my caliper cover video
I just broke a T40 torx bit after using PB blaster on the top nut. Had to pause the job because I could not remove the top nut. Have you ever had to cut one off because you couldn't remove the but with a torx bit?
Yea. I did the same thing in the other side. I used a “nut splitter” to “cut” off the nut. You can get them almost anywhere. Worked perfectly. Just gotta buy the correct size that can fit over the nut.
It shows 2 choices which one u bought?
I’m getting more clicking noise when turning wheel and driving slow
I keep thinking it might be my cv axles
My car only have 60k miles
check if the swat bar links are oily
Hey bro, what's the worst that can happen if I don't replace my stabilizer links? I've got a w203 and I think it's the same problem. Upon driving on bumps, it makes this horrible sound. Btw, how much did you pay for the passenger and driver links?
its wears and wears and can snap, making your car have more body roll when turning and losing steering performance which is a huge hazard not only for you but other people on the road. They are like under $100 for a pair.
@@TheFlexxGarage hey thanks a lot for replying bro,I really appreciate that.
Hi thanks for the video. Any idea about the torque specs for bolts?
Have you met the problem about camshaft position sensor bank1 where the issue is not the sensor or magnet but after some research looks like it is a common failure for a c250 do you have any advice or maybe a video?
Common problem. Camshaft adjuster is worn and timing is completely off. Keep driving and your engine will probably break down. It’s a $1500-$2500 repair. Go to a specialized German car shop if you want to save money. There’s no DIY for this.
I bet you get a lot of race hungry drivers that pull up next you. I drive a e350 nothing super fast,but BMW drivers always seem to want smoke at stop lights or highway
You got that right. I just roll down the window and tell them I’m slow. Lol
Is there an up down marking on the links
Was reading comments in other vids seen u sead u had hks spark plugs do U have a link to that by any change
Hey flexx what brand is a good quality to get?
Don’t know. I bought mine on FCP euro cause it’s lifetime warranty on their parts. Never had any issues after I did the replacement.
For me it was shock absorber exact same noise as u showed in video explain that 😂
I’m wondering if mines shocks or sway bar links
What did you buy exactly. Im about to replace my sway bar links but I’m a bit confused as to what I need to buy as far as the sway bar link nuts
Mercedes part# 000000003276, it's just a grade 10.9 M12X1.5 lock nut. $2.40 each at MB dealer. I bought a few from the dealer and still haven't used them, I resued the old nuts and they work fine. I've had my car apart so many times, struts, control arms, coil springs, and yet to use a "new" nut or bolt. I just clean them up with a brass brush to clean out all the old loctite Mercedes loves using. Just replaced some rusty rear dust shields this weekend and reused all the hardware, though I did replace the brake pad hold down springs, part# 2014230592 for 70 cents each at MB dealer.
i'm about to purchase preowned c300, how often should sway bar links be changed, because i live in the city where there's bumpy road everywhere
Just change it when it starts making clicking/clunking noise. There’s no way to know when it’s going until it’s going.
I have a w212 e class....its making clunking noise on light bumpy roads....taken I to 2 garages and still a year on no 1 can find the problem...they hand move the drop links and say they fine...I've had 4 springs changed and the front shocks..plz can u advise me if hand moving the sway bar links can tell u that the links are worn...thanks
pretty sure it's your shocks or the sway bar links. Note, you can't just diagnose the issues with worn sway bar links by using your hand unless they are super worn out. When a car is driving and hittin bumps, there's thousands of pounds put on these links and shocks. If there's even a little give, the weight of the car will make it known (as a clunk, rattle, etc..). A hand does not have enough force to "diagnose" the issue. I would find a reputable shop that works on Mercedes.
@@TheFlexxGarage many thanks for the reply flexx...I will take the car to another garage or will get the front sway bar links changed first as the shocks have been done....my car is a e250cdi sport...and after getting the rear springs from dealers the rear height is super high...dealer says it will have a red and green mark on the springs which are correct....but I've seen on the net that for sport models it's a red red green dots on the springs for sports springs
Hey flexxx I watch you videos on UA-cam. I was having trouble and was wondering if you can help me out trying or replace sway bar link on my w213 e300 (2017) and I watched you video on replacing sway bar link however my lower part of the way bar is different attachment then your do you have any idea how to take this off ?
Sorry. I don’t really know the w213 platform. I would say check the w213 Facebook groups or the forums. Someone will chime in.
Lemforder or original?
I did this 3 times on my old c350 and once already in my c63
I just replaced mine last year with the lemforder brand from fcp euro and the rubber boots are already split.
Bro lemforder sucks balls rated for like 20k miles bro
@@leee00007what brand is there that’s better? Looking to replace mines soon.
Why they fail so quickly..?
Mercedes' double wishbone suspension eats any moving parts if they are not correctly installed...
When I install something new on mine, I always lightly pretighten it first, then I put full weight on the wheel, and then I tighten it to spec..
@rvidal0001 to properly tighten these, you need a set of through sockets. harbor freight sells a kit that's pretty reasonable.
www.harborfreight.com/sae-metric-go-thru-socket-set-21-pc-62305.html
Just changed mine on a w205 it's the third time first two the dealership changed it under warranty.. it would of been nice to see the bottom part of the link but my guy didn't show that part.. I have a video if anyone needs help lmk
Link?!
Hey where did you get the yellow mercedes calipers covers? Please share😅
Go watch my yellow caliper cover video. All the info is there.
So i have a w204 wagon and its lowerd and cant use original sway bar links. Been trying to find adjustable ones but just doesn’t exist
If your car is lowered you need longer bar links. I bought w212 ones which are 22mm longer
Hey man.. I have a 2007 e350 Benz where do I buy the sway bar links for them? I’m having a hard time finding them.. thanks
I just bought my end links for my car. Can't wait to install .
Dealer ship
FCP Euro. I buy all the high wear parts from them for there lifetime warranty replacement. They warranty everything even brake pads, rotors, windshield wipers etc..
$1,800 at the stealership!
Ouch!
250 at Mercedes, 170 at the general mech shop.
Hi Flexx, You installed a strut bar which bolts across the engine if I recall. Q. Does that help extend the life of these links or is there no effect?
Not really. Just helps reduce body roll and helps with turning.
Where did you get those brake caliper covers?
I have like 3 videos on it. It’s all on my UA-cam channel with details.
Do you need new nuts with the new sway bar?
They're self locking nuts, so I wouldn't replace them until the 2nd or 3rd time
How much is the sway bar link?
You can usually get a pair from $50-$100. Depends on brand and where you buy them.
Wait when did he answer the question? Is it just me, or did he just show HOW to change them?
I was thinking the same, maybe he was asking for the answer in the comments.
Learn to read!
@Flexx 😂
lmao my control arm bushings sqeak over bumps when its cold, they need changing
That's weird that you have to change them after 1 year of changing them. Sounds like you purchased a faulty pair the first time.
What rims are theu and what tire fitment you running
ua-cam.com/video/r_yJJxXHslM/v-deo.htmlsi=Yyljxf1Gm0BiM-mb
So why do they fail so quickly ???
Don’t know. Could just be a cheap part or poor design or just the nature of the piece. I would rather have this piece start to fail and i pay small money to replace it several times before i have to replace other larger, more expensive suspension components.
Plus the roads in my area are pretty bad. That takes a beating and puts a lot of stress on that part as well.
@@TheFlexxGarage Its because the front shocks are starting to wear out. These cars dont have any upper control arms so when there is a play in the shocks the sway bar links fails very quickly. If you change the shocks aswell, the sway bar links will last much longer :)
Do you know the link for the brake covers
It’s in my video on the caliper covers
where did you get the rims tho bro
Tire rack .com
Sparco Asseto gara 18x8 all around
Hy. Any shakes at high speeds? Thanks. I don't hear this sound in the car and I have a little play in the front right wheel. (could be the bearing a bit loose?) Thanks.
No sound. You have another issue if you have shakes. Alignment, bearing, loose lug nuts, uneven tire wear, tie rod ends, etc. Get the car jacked up and get it diagnosed before things get worse.
is that a 4-matic?
No. C250 coupes are only rear wheel drive.