1997-2004 Ford F-150: Rear Shock Replacement
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- Опубліковано 14 жов 2024
- Come along as we fight these old rusty shocks off this 2003 F-150!
These are the Tools and Supplies needed to complete this job:
My go to Rust Penetrant-
amzn.to/2ri4iEX
Die Grinder-
amzn.to/2pNO5XY
Mandrel Cut off Wheel Kit-
amzn.to/2pNRt4X
Medium Strength Loctite-
amzn.to/2pNGGYA
Max Bite Locking Pliers-
amzn.to/2qJQC9L
My Company BSG Automotive offers Auto Repair services in the greater Chicagoland area.
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Disclaimer:
The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user and BSG Automotive (hereinafter “FordTechMakuloco”) makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. FordTechMakuloco shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by FordTechMakuloco and therefore, FordTechMakuloco does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge FordTechMakuloco or anyone affiliated with FordTechMakuloco, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law.
These are the Tools and Supplies needed to complete this job:
My go to Rust Penetrant-
amzn.to/2ri4iEX
Die Grinder-
amzn.to/2pNO5XY
Mandrel Cut off Wheel Kit-
amzn.to/2pNRt4X
Medium Strength Loctite-
amzn.to/2pNGGYA
Max Bite Locking Pliers-
amzn.to/2qJQC9L
Couldn’t you just cut the rod of the shock in the center? Where are you put your pliers?
Hands-down, the BEST repair videos anywhere (Surfed around and watched many others try to help, but wound up doing A LOT of repairs based on THIS guy's stuff)... Well spoken, great camera skills, and extremely detail-oriented. THANKS!
Excellent job. You consistently demonstrate that you know your stuff well. Many techs make the mistake of tightening down shocks unloaded thus causing the new bushings to chew out and fail prematurely. Props for taking the time to point this out.
Great advice on the flex head. My 2002 top shock mount is totally different. Mine is 4x4 without the off road package, maybe that's why. I was lucky with not too much corrosion but I had to put a opened end 18 mm on the underside of bushing and 18 mm flex head on the top. Had to come in through the tire side and could get about two clicks with the ratchet flex head. Took awhile and was frustrating but they finally came off. Found out it was better to take tops off first with this method.
And by the way very nicely detailed videos on every aspect you engage upon. Nicely captioned and I applaud your accurate diagnosing as well
The Motorcraft shock absorbers on my 2000 Ford F-250 2WD lasted 180,000 miles and I replaced them recently. I thought about replacing them with new Motorcraft shocks but went with Bilsteins. The Bilsteins are made in USA and make the truck ride as well as a 3/4 ton pickup can.
After going here straight from a Car Cleaning Guru video, I instantly wanted to take a power washer to that truck. Had to snap myself out of it. lol
Doing this very thing next weekend on my 98 model. This along with upper and lower ball joints, inner and outer tie rod ends etc. I'm guessing this truck was probably a 2 wheel drive since the shocks are mounted in a different place than mine. Mine mount on the rear of the axle.
Some Motorcraft shocks are Monroe sensatracs. They have the same engravings (for the ones I changed, it may be visible in the video too). I know for crown vics Motorcraft has two lines - Factory original and Aftermarket. They are made by different companies.
+alb12345672 yeah they offered value line version here too but he customer chose the upgraded OE replacement shocks.
If I'm doing the Rancho's, I just go with the stock height ones, right? I was going to save up and get the bilsteins, but I got a good deal on a set of RS5000X's. I have an O3 FX4 like this truck in the video.
Excellent video and explanations. Thank you. Does the top nut also has a specific torque requirement? And how is it done? Thanks.
Looks like passenger side bottom mount gives you the option to angle it back just like the driver side. noticed the mount has two holes and the driver side only has one.. both my shocks on my 98 are angle back. and my top shaft and nut are easily accessible.. i agree cut these off if its faster and easier.. mine has a 2 inch level lift in back so i can through a ratchet and socket on the top nut... pretty wild.. but the e150 vans are ridiculous you're definitely gonna have to cut those...
good job as usual look like you could use a pinion seal to
+bighurk30 yup that got changed too. This truck had about $2k in work done to it from front to back.
I was going to ask if that's normal. Mine looks the same, but it's high mileage and not wet at all.
My dad's Dodge 2500 by comparison was recently changed because it was wet and dripping, obviously an almost emergency repair. I can see that being a necessity but this I have to wonder is it just not something that's actually perfectly normal for an older used truck and nothing to worry about.
thanks helped a lot I have a 99 F-150 XLT with a 4.6 liter and it has a ticking sound always had it since I bought it wondering if you would do a video on that what would make that ticking sound
I love your videos.
How much of a fact really is when you tighten the top bolt of the strut. Some mechanics say to leave the same amount of thread on both side if not one side would be higher than the other
could it also have been done with the bottom put in first then aim the top on in to place?
So I've got a problem and of course it has the be the best one. An Intermittent electrical issue. My dads has a 2013 f150 crew cab short bed platinum 3.5l eco 4x4. The rear drivers side door lock will work and stop working. It can go weeks working and then quit for no rhyme or reason and stop for a some time, and resume working again. We don't know if it's a short somewhere or the door lock actuator is acting stupid. It's been doing this since we got the truck last year.
Wow that area is definitely the rust belt. You need a 55 gallon of penatrating spray for all bolts.
That park brake cable end tho..lol
How would you run a charge line for a 4battery house bank? Positive direct from alternator stud? 4 rv grade 12v 100a sealed lead acid. Saving for lipoe4 lithiums.
Monroe makes the motorcraft shocks.
I have a question what would you recommend for towing I have the same truck ,but it not 4x4?
love your videos I need to replace the rear shocks on my toyota rav4 what is your opinion on brand should I use original Toyotas or KYB or sachs
I have had good luck with KYB shocks on my 2 Ford vehicles they were exact form fit and function.
KYB makes a good shock, Bilstein is Best quality imho
King shocks are great for aftermaket its what i run on my truck
Can I assume the next project will
be a rear pinion seal?
+Patrick Dougherty yes that was done along with $3k in other work.
My 02 F150 FX4 5.4 rear shocks are top and bottom I(eye) bolt design. Not like this. So cant find proper rear shocks. Any ideas?
Brian I need your help again, 2011f150ecoboost engine light came on code po172 bank 1too rich what can cause this?
Does the top nut get torqued to the same spec as the bottom? I guess with a crows foot wrench or something?
You simply compress it untill the bushing just squeezes past the metal washer, same as you would do the front shocks as well
please my friend,you have been our helper and I wish I can see u.pls help me..I have 2012 Lincoln mkz with 68000 miles on it,when I hit a brake,I hear a popping noise and on low bumpy surface,it clunks or pops.I have replaced the lower control arms,engine mounts..please what do u think is it
Mine looked NOTHING like this, lol. They are mounted on the aft side of the axle on either side of the diff cover, and the upper mounts are hidden inthe most God forsaken place that only a toddler with a stubby wrench can reach, haha. I spent my afternoon with a die grinder/cut off wheel cutting the upper shafts so I could pry them out from the underside. Apparently in 2003 FX4's they decided you had to remove the bed to replace your shocks, haha. Ever come across this? Silly Ford Engineers!
hello FordTechMakuloco I just bought a 2009 ford flex limited non EB with 70k miles ....is this vehicle gonna be reliable?
Yes
What's the torque spec for the top?
HA! I have a 2004 F-150 that was built towards the end of they year. The 2004 shocks don't fit so I have to buy 2005. The oil filter is off of a 6 cylinder motor. The V8 oil filter wont fit past the belt.
Would this work for a 97 Expedition
+darkwolflord basically the same
I’m looking for max road comfort which shocks do you recommend
put 500 pounds of sand (or something) in the bed and restrain it from moving around = vastly improved ride
The owner needs to wash it and clean up the rust !
+adrian sims nah it has tons of miles on it still runs strong and he lives down a long gravel road it would never stay clean.
FordTechMakuloco I thought that,was salt...lol...the rust belt of chicago
Isn't all that rust really bad . Looks really bad M I'm from Georgia and I was a Ford line tech for 20 years but that rust really looks concerning ,should it be?
My name is Brian as well
hi, i want to locate The engine coolant temperature sensor 2006 ford escape 4 cylinder. thank you
i think i remember this one its right between cyl 2 and 3 dead center
Why was the drive line dropped ?
+Tuna Fish Pinion seal, this truck was getting allot of work done to it.
Didn't reuse the accordion sleeve?
+Stephan Fuchs no the new shocks have a hard metal shell
you forgot the dust cover.
+happy543210 nope they come with a full length metal shell built in on the motorcraft shocks
Mopar fluid?????? oh no!!! LMAO jk.
What about the Monroe Reflex Shocks