2009 Ford F150 XL SCREW. Passenger side strut blew and leaked fluid everywhere. I do quite a bit of repairs myself but was thinking of taking to a local shop. I will tackle this myself after watching this video. What I like most about this video is it is not heavily edited, removing some of the pain points of repair. All of the little "gotchas" and pain points are still in this video giving it a realistic expectation. Well done!
Brings me back 40 yrs when I had to change my leaf springs on my 68 Cougar Dad bought new he sold me at 18, cutting torch was our only option back then, suspension has come a long way, it still wrinkles the slicks with a Holley on a rollercam 302 and.....long live the blue oval, love my 14 xlt sc with 150 coyote, still a 302!
I use a spring compression clamps while it is sitting flat under its own weight. Then I release all bolts. Then I Jack it up. I do not have to release A arms. However, I am in love with this woman! Strong and sure of what she's teaching. Great tutorial.
+JJ Campbell Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
I put this job away for 6 months. finally got it done. the best thing that helps me was my truck is from the south. all bolts came off easy. I don't have a lift like they do but I used a 3-ton jack to lift and a regular car jack to raise the lower arm to help me put back the tie rod, sway bar, upper joint and bottom bolt for the shock thanks for all your helpful information and tools I needed
When tightening a bolt/nut assembly I always tighten with the nut, the transfer of torque is different, also when using a torque wrench I always slowly apply force to the wrench until it clicks. momentum while using a torque wrench changes the real value of force applied to the fastener. Overall a great video that shows how the job is done. Thank you.
Masterpiece. Great video. Love this mechanic. Convinced me to get this done at a shop but watched all the way through to see what’s involved. Could probably do it but the forces and air guns and rust we have in New England I’m sure mine will be worse off than hers too. There’s a time and place for diy and I did the math (what the parts will cost me) and concluded I’ll take it in to the shop. Also they will do the alignment. Thanks for the video!
In the video you mention using a 22mm deep socket but it isn't listed on the supplies list (timestamp 7:34). A 21mm socket is. Very detailed and thorough like attending a class. Thanks.
You have removed too many bolts/nuts than necessary. For change strout, you need to remove only 4 (bottom one and top 3), then wiggle it out. Watched the Ford Tech Locomoto's video, it is much easier than this one.
Always leave the nut on a few threads when you hammer the knuckle. Having those crash in your face bleeds a lot! And while having suspension loaded is important before tightening bolts, measuring before hand, especially with old spring being cracked is redundant.
Great video on subject, have a 14 built late, may not have that large bolt hopefully, was looking into leveling it out 2". Many videos of too many things be removed unnessessarly. Struts were recently replaced, superintendent had a well documented maintenance contract, I got lucky, about all he hauled was paychecks lol. And the " my key" I have to deal with also, I childproofed my truck! Toms Keys handles those problems.
Tip: breaking a NUT free is better than trying to break the BOLT free, especially since most BOLTS have corrosion along the shaft that increases it's resistance to spinning. So try loosening the NUT first.
Nice video. Is this a RWD or 4WD? A tip on removing those rusted, threaded parts. After applying a penetrant you should wire brush the threads. It will greatly enhance the removal of the nuts. Otherwise you will be grinding rust and threads trying to remove. Also, it's a good idea to wire brush all mating parts before putting new against existing. Clean old parts well! Nice job!
I have watched a couple videos of you doing work on vehicles. I think u do get work. Very informative. Although when installing new parts that I've seen u have to fight off before. You don't put any anti seize on anything. Why is that? Just for my knowledge.
Very informative video but it pains me to watch the mud guard plastic plugs being ripped out with the 90 degree needle nose pliers THROUGH the guard! Ouch! Use the correct tool please.
I have watched several of these videos, none show having a problem getting the struts out. I am having to use a spring compressor to get them out and it is not easy.
It was an awesome video with great details, but I would have definitely tried loosening the lower control arm nuts a little so the control arm would have a little more play to fall like she was taking about
+Blaine Meyer Thanks for the kind words! We really try to make these as detailed as possible. That's a great tip and is another work around to getting more play in that area.
So I am in the middle of this project for the first time ever. So far, so good. Preparing to install the new strut assembly now. One suggestion is to make an edit and to let everyone know to take the measurement from the fender to the wheel center before we start. I didn't know and now I have to kinda guess. No turning back now.
+Joey Sanchez Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
Not to be mean but she made some things more difficult than it should be. You don't remove the caliper and rotor the whole arm drops down and it will be very easy to get the shock in and out. Also the sway bar linkage you can use an 18mm wrench and 5/16 rachets on the stem to tighten and loosen it.
No loctite? Also, you premeasured the distance from axle center to top of wheel frame mentioned when assembling the bottom strut bolt. But that premeasurement was not in the video and that caught me off guard as this was used as a step by step instructions.
Ugh. Too much work for me lol. But I came here because I just found a broken coil spring in that same lower spot that was pointed out. I hit railroad tracks at a very low speed but it must have been rusted for quite a while that it decided to break. I’ve heard this thing ting noise when hitting bumps ever since then. The broken part of the spring is so small but the noise is driving me nuts
After changing out my old struts to bilstein 5100’s and changing my upper control arms I can’t get the knuckle and upper control arm to match up. Any suggestions? Thank you.
I don't think it is realistic to get the distance from the center of the tire to the top of the wheel well back to the same height when replacing shocks/struts. New shocks and struts will be stiffer and won't compress as much.
Im desperate to find how to change the two wheel model on 2011 f150. My steering rod is bolted at top. It just look a bit different and acts different. Please help with whats different at change!!
Great video, but watching you our everything back together without cleaning up the rusted bits with some PB blaster and a wire brush first was a bit painful. Also surprised you didn’t put a dab of anti-seize on that large lower bolt. Finally: if you’re going to replace the spring and strut, may as well replace the sway bar too while you’re at it.
+Phillip Slisher Thanks for watching! Before tightening all of the suspension components to spec, the suspension needs to be loaded as if it is already on the ground. Since it is on the lift, we simply use the screw jack and push everything up. The way we know it if fully loaded is because the center of the hub to center of the fender should be 23.5" when it is on the ground.
I don't have to take the brakes off to do this do I? I just did my brakes and got them bled and don't want to have to take them off and bleed them again.
1985mgraber Just did mine last night on a 2012. Didn’t take my brakes off. Even if you’re just pulling the calipers off, you don’t need to bleed, unless you’ve taken a line off.
@@Beach40-3 I've heard if you have to compress the piston you want to loosten your bleeder because backflow can damage the ABS system. So when I did my brakes I did that, and then had to bleed them all.
I’ve never heard that, but that doesn’t mean I’m right. I’ve always compressed my calipers to remove them. You don’t need to compress them much. Just enough to slide them off.
It’s not bad. Just don’t rush. Make sure you clean the threads on anything you’re going to remove. Wire brush, pick, razor blade. Get all the crap out off the threads. Spray lube on, then remove nuts. Helps everything come apart smoother. Pay attention to the 3 studs on top of the new strut assembly. They’re not in a perfect triangle. At least it doesn’t appear that way. Match the orientation to the one you pull out, so the holes line up when you put the new one in. Good luck!
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Just finished my front and rear shocks & struts after watching this video. Saved 600 bucks doing it myself. Thanks for all the great videos!!
2009 Ford F150 XL SCREW. Passenger side strut blew and leaked fluid everywhere. I do quite a bit of repairs myself but was thinking of taking to a local shop. I will tackle this myself after watching this video. What I like most about this video is it is not heavily edited, removing some of the pain points of repair. All of the little "gotchas" and pain points are still in this video giving it a realistic expectation. Well done!
+Aw Barnes Thanks for checking us out!
Brings me back 40 yrs when I had to change my leaf springs on my 68 Cougar Dad bought new he sold me at 18, cutting torch was our only option back then, suspension has come a long way, it still wrinkles the slicks with a Holley on a rollercam 302 and.....long live the blue oval, love my 14 xlt sc with 150 coyote, still a 302!
I use a spring compression clamps while it is sitting flat under its own weight. Then I release all bolts. Then I Jack it up. I do not have to release A arms. However, I am in love with this woman! Strong and sure of what she's teaching. Great tutorial.
+JJ Campbell Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
I put this job away for 6 months. finally got it done. the best thing that helps me was my truck is from the south. all bolts came off easy.
I don't have a lift like they do but I used a 3-ton jack to lift and a regular car jack to raise the lower arm to help me put back the tie rod, sway bar, upper joint and bottom bolt for the shock
thanks for all your helpful information and tools I needed
When tightening a bolt/nut assembly I always tighten with the nut, the transfer of torque is different, also when using a torque wrench I always slowly apply force to the wrench until it clicks. momentum while using a torque wrench changes the real value of force applied to the fastener. Overall a great video that shows how the job is done. Thank you.
+Ruben Dawn Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Masterpiece. Great video. Love this mechanic. Convinced me to get this done at a shop but watched all the way through to see what’s involved. Could probably do it but the forces and air guns and rust we have in New England I’m sure mine will be worse off than hers too. There’s a time and place for diy and I did the math (what the parts will cost me) and concluded I’ll take it in to the shop. Also they will do the alignment. Thanks for the video!
In the video you mention using a 22mm deep socket but it isn't listed on the supplies list (timestamp 7:34). A 21mm socket is. Very detailed and thorough like attending a class. Thanks.
You have removed too many bolts/nuts than necessary. For change strout, you need to remove only 4 (bottom one and top 3), then wiggle it out. Watched the Ford Tech Locomoto's video, it is much easier than this one.
No she didn’t. That works on the 04-08 models, but doesn’t work on the 09-14. It’s much easier to replace them on the 11th gens than the 12th gens.
I am in love with this woman! Strong and sure of what she's teaching. Great tutorial.
Get a Life Sehhs
Always leave the nut on a few threads when you hammer the knuckle. Having those crash in your face bleeds a lot! And while having suspension loaded is important before tightening bolts, measuring before hand, especially with old spring being cracked is redundant.
What is the upper control arm ball joint torque? It isn't in the video even though it mentioned that it will be done next.
Great video on subject, have a 14 built late, may not have that large bolt hopefully, was looking into leveling it out 2". Many videos of too many things be removed unnessessarly. Struts were recently replaced, superintendent had a well documented maintenance contract, I got lucky, about all he hauled was paychecks lol. And the " my key" I have to deal with also, I childproofed my truck! Toms Keys handles those problems.
+gene Thanks for the feedback!
Tip: breaking a NUT free is better than trying to break the BOLT free, especially since most BOLTS have corrosion along the shaft that increases it's resistance to spinning.
So try loosening the NUT first.
Good video helped a lot. but I believe you skipped the upper ball joint torque spec.
Nice video. Is this a RWD or 4WD? A tip on removing those rusted, threaded parts. After applying a penetrant you should wire brush the threads. It will greatly enhance the removal of the nuts. Otherwise you will be grinding rust and threads trying to remove. Also, it's a good idea to wire brush all mating parts before putting new against existing. Clean old parts well! Nice job!
Excellent video. Im going to replacing mine soon. Thanks!
The strut on my 2014 does NOT have a single lower bolt. It has 2 bolts that point downward.
Very nice and helpful video. However I found you do not need to remove the tie rod end. Plenty easy to do it without this extra step
Thanks for the feedback! +David Taylor
I have watched a couple videos of you doing work on vehicles. I think u do get work. Very informative. Although when installing new parts that I've seen u have to fight off before. You don't put any anti seize on anything. Why is that? Just for my knowledge.
Great video!
What is the torque spec on the upper control arm?
42 ugga duggs
@@tombryant4518 85
Ok, even with a lift and air tools that is a LOT of work, but doable over a long weekend
Very informative video but it pains me to watch the mud guard plastic plugs being ripped out with the 90 degree needle nose pliers THROUGH the guard! Ouch! Use the correct tool please.
i was cringing when she hit the new strut without a piece of wood , great video tho
I have watched several of these videos, none show having a problem getting the struts out. I am having to use a spring compressor to get them out and it is not easy.
+Nelson Aveleno Thanks for the feedback! We will add a video of a not so fun removal of struts if we come across a set.
It was an awesome video with great details, but I would have definitely tried loosening the lower control arm nuts a little so the control arm would have a little more play to fall like she was taking about
+Blaine Meyer Thanks for the kind words! We really try to make these as detailed as possible. That's a great tip and is another work around to getting more play in that area.
So I am in the middle of this project for the first time ever. So far, so good. Preparing to install the new strut assembly now. One suggestion is to make an edit and to let everyone know to take the measurement from the fender to the wheel center before we start. I didn't know and now I have to kinda guess. No turning back now.
@@tracyapyle How'd that work for you?
I really really love y'all's videos.
+Joey Sanchez Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
Thank you
+Ariel Biernacki Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Great video. Thank you!
+Mitchell Tracy Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Great informative video. Thanks
+BLUESTAR KING Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
What happens if you skip measuring from center axle nut to fender well?
Trying to clear the top two bolts of the control arm so I don't have to take all the rest of the ball joints out ?
Not to be mean but she made some things more difficult than it should be. You don't remove the caliper and rotor the whole arm drops down and it will be very easy to get the shock in and out. Also the sway bar linkage you can use an 18mm wrench and 5/16 rachets on the stem to tighten and loosen it.
No loctite? Also, you premeasured the distance from axle center to top of wheel frame mentioned when assembling the bottom strut bolt. But that premeasurement was not in the video and that caught me off guard as this was used as a step by step instructions.
I died when she said parked her car in Harvard yard
Hey can I bring my 2013 F-150 in. You guys can do a whole front end suspension swap on it. I won’t charge you anything to use my truck
Good work,wow
+Thomas Brennan Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1AAuto.com
Very nice thank you
+CAOSLV BARRETA Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Everyone else gets lucky with that bottom pinch bolt!
I had to torch the thing out!
Ugh. Too much work for me lol. But I came here because I just found a broken coil spring in that same lower spot that was pointed out. I hit railroad tracks at a very low speed but it must have been rusted for quite a while that it decided to break. I’ve heard this thing ting noise when hitting bumps ever since then. The broken part of the spring is so small but the noise is driving me nuts
After changing out my old struts to bilstein 5100’s and changing my upper control arms I can’t get the knuckle and upper control arm to match up. Any suggestions? Thank you.
Nice
+Ahmad AlFarra Thanks for checking us out. 1aauto.com
I don't think it is realistic to get the distance from the center of the tire to the top of the wheel well back to the same height when replacing shocks/struts. New shocks and struts will be stiffer and won't compress as much.
+r John Thanks for the tip! We'll pass this info along to our production team.
AWSOME!
I know im being negative but this job looks hard. Especially living in apartments and the outside weather is 7 degrees.
Good good job
+Cindy Guevara Thanks for checking us out. Shop for high quality auto parts on 1AAuto.com:
1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Im desperate to find how to change the two wheel model on 2011 f150. My steering rod is bolted at top. It just look a bit different and acts different. Please help with whats different at change!!
You only have to undo the tie rod, you do not need to undo all the rest of the wheel assembly.
Has anyone bought the kit from A1? If so, how do like them
Great video, but watching you our everything back together without cleaning up the rusted bits with some PB blaster and a wire brush first was a bit painful. Also surprised you didn’t put a dab of anti-seize on that large lower bolt.
Finally: if you’re going to replace the spring and strut, may as well replace the sway bar too while you’re at it.
+HomestarAK Thanks for the feedback!
cool video
Could you not just mark where the bolts and top assemble is on the strut and realign during install to eliminate spending $ on alignment ? Thx
Why the measurement from the fender to the center of hub, this is flexible? I do not understand the reason for this.
+Phillip Slisher Thanks for watching! Before tightening all of the suspension components to spec, the suspension needs to be loaded as if it is already on the ground. Since it is on the lift, we simply use the screw jack and push everything up. The way we know it if fully loaded is because the center of the hub to center of the fender should be 23.5" when it is on the ground.
Make sure you take the CV axle / 4wd axle nut off. You go prying too hard on that control arm you WILL break it. Ask me how I know...
I don't have to take the brakes off to do this do I? I just did my brakes and got them bled and don't want to have to take them off and bleed them again.
1985mgraber Just did mine last night on a 2012. Didn’t take my brakes off. Even if you’re just pulling the calipers off, you don’t need to bleed, unless you’ve taken a line off.
@@Beach40-3 I've heard if you have to compress the piston you want to loosten your bleeder because backflow can damage the ABS system. So when I did my brakes I did that, and then had to bleed them all.
I’ve never heard that, but that doesn’t mean I’m right. I’ve always compressed my calipers to remove them. You don’t need to compress them much. Just enough to slide them off.
@@Beach40-3 how did the strut job go? I'm getting ready to do basically my entire front end suspension. Hoping it isn't too bad.
It’s not bad. Just don’t rush. Make sure you clean the threads on anything you’re going to remove. Wire brush, pick, razor blade. Get all the crap out off the threads. Spray lube on, then remove nuts. Helps everything come apart smoother. Pay attention to the 3 studs on top of the new strut assembly. They’re not in a perfect triangle. At least it doesn’t appear that way. Match the orientation to the one you pull out, so the holes line up when you put the new one in. Good luck!
Why do i see other people removing cv from hub with vac pump? Seems like u dont have to
How much do them cost?
What’s the average amount to pay for something like this in Texas
+Jose Guardiola Thank you for your question. We wouldn't have a way to estimate a strut assembly install.
2 different trucks? One still has the rotor the other doesn't
I tried. I couldn't get anything to break lose.
Will struts from a 2009 f150 fit on a 2005 f150?
This should be from 09 to 13 the 14 is different
You did not torque the bottom bolt you impacted it which you can never know if it is correct torque! I had to play it back to make sure she did that.
+Nick Thomas Thanks for the tip! We'll pass this info along to our production team.
Good but Sloppy! Im surprised 1A submitted this
+Russ Rodriguez Thanks for the tip! We'll pass this info along to our production team.
This is not the home and Garden show... get outta here!!!
Great vid, not everyone has the correct tool for everything. Improvise!
But impact make loud vroom vroom
she is good
1A auto parts is very difficult to find your part that you want to purchase
One of them lady mechanics, huh 🤔
man you are barely strong enough to do that job so i guess in 20 years you won't be doing that no more
Damn. Away to go ford. Get the truck apart to replace the shocks.
+Juan Ramón Muñoz Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
What vehicle doesn't need to be taken apart to replace things?
This doesn’t look like a kitchen to me...
Zachary Robinson And you don’t sound like a comedian.