Late to the party.. most enjoyable viewing watching - crafting 2 materials I've worked for decades, especially the copper, silver, brass and aluminium. I'm a craftsman too. I'd like to suggest a few methods that help with making these tube inserts, if you have to. I've found Copper and Brass plumbing olives are the dirt cheap n' easy preformed metal insert. They have sharp tapered edges. These can be driven into a soft timber face using a fabricated driver tool/pin. The timber can be installed in the copper ring before or after panel install. This lends itself to signature mosaic pins.. I especially like glass. The Drill Pressing 'need' could be as small as a 18V battery drill, frankly. It's more a matter holding the tube.. the chuck vice. You only need the motor drive to polish after all. Drill press has the advantage of being used as an install tool too, if the metal is installed at the bench and the wood infill is installed after the panel is mounted. There is no need to polish the outside of the tube... only the head part that is seen. This makes it far easier to make e'm. 😉 When installing the tube in a drill or lathe chuck, engage as much tube as possible in the chuck jaws, NOT as little as possible, especially if you intend touching the tube with a hacksaw to part off, or a file to chamfer... even polishing! Just don't tighten the chuck heavy. Remember, the smaller the diameter work piece (or drill) - the higher the machining speed... especially polishing. When installing the insert remember you are compressing a lot of air into that pocket... and not compressing whateva 'glue', so be mindful if your seeking a tight flush fit. Plumbing fittings / pipe are an excellent source of materials. The brass can be turned easily with abrasion and use of the Drill press (best horizontal axis mounting across a bench, so it can be used as a sanding Lathe too). Brass fittings can be easily mounted up on a shaft to drill machine mount and 'machined' to tube size and formed to produce a hole saw with zero tooth set - making a self installing tube insert - cutting wood for a precision metal/wood fit. You can make plug cutters from brass tube too. With large diameter inserts (say 20-25mm) maybe cut the wood core insert from the panel your plugging for a perfect timber grain match. That would have you use brass core drill in 10-15mm (no centre drill) > carefully remove plug from panel > drill mounting hole > Screw/bolt fixture > carefully install the insert with 'mother' grain aligned.... easy. I like mosaic pins Plumbing tools; Cu. tube flairing kit is very useful. Two bits to this too... a screw clamp and vice. It can work the Cu. to achieve a larger apparent wall thickness of the tube insert. ie. I could have the 1/4" tube appear to be 3-5 mm wall thickness at the face... or 20mm easy if a Cu. washer was included into the design. The tool can be used to drive the wood dowel into the tube if the usually 45* flair cone is converted to a flat face driver, rather than the flair former. The tube clamp (vice) used alone, is a safe way to hold the tube, preventing distortion when cutting or driving pins into woods. Tube Cutters, having a disc blade + two rollers, are the best way to part off the 15mm pins, after polishing the pins head. Using a hacksaw is a bit on the 'hack' bodgie side for my liking. If you must buy the tube always get the 'hard drawn' type.
I’ve subconsciously thought this for awhile, I’m sure, but I’m saying it today, March 12,2023…. you host my favorite channel! I learn something every time I see your work. Thanks RC!
If you are looking for a japanese saw for fine cross cuts on small stock, try looking for a purely cross cut Dozuki saw (those saw that have backs). The ones with universal teeth cut very fine too, great for dovetails, but the ones for cross cuts only have much finer teeth, much smaller set and even on softwoods like pine they leave almost a finished look that could be mistaken for a planed surface.
I have thoughts of some fairly simple yet heirloom quality designs. Your stuff is more involved, but there is so much to take away and be influenced by. I think a bit of metal on a simple piece could be a very nice touch. Interesting comment at the end. Thanks as always.
I like that idea, although I'd be concerned about discoloration of the wood. Since it's the end grain that's exposed, it'll soak up stuff pretty readily.
@@themountaintopjoinersshop8422 You can protect the wood with a drop of hot melt glue or some tape or shellac. It should be done before they are installed of course.
@@themountaintopjoinersshop8422 How about using a strop? On the drill press, take a little band of leather loaded with the same stopping compound used to polish cutting edges. You may use it only on the sides of the plug (to avoid contaminating the wood), as the bevel is small enough to not need that much polish. That's how I polish aluminium to a mirror.
Love the little details. Nice touch.
Really enjoying your channel, thanks for the great content
Late to the party.. most enjoyable viewing watching - crafting 2 materials I've worked for decades, especially the copper, silver, brass and aluminium. I'm a craftsman too. I'd like to suggest a few methods that help with making these tube inserts, if you have to.
I've found Copper and Brass plumbing olives are the dirt cheap n' easy preformed metal insert. They have sharp tapered edges. These can be driven into a soft timber face using a fabricated driver tool/pin. The timber can be installed in the copper ring before or after panel install. This lends itself to signature mosaic pins.. I especially like glass.
The Drill Pressing 'need' could be as small as a 18V battery drill, frankly.
It's more a matter holding the tube.. the chuck vice. You only need the motor drive to polish after all.
Drill press has the advantage of being used as an install tool too, if the metal is installed at the bench and the wood infill is installed after the panel is mounted.
There is no need to polish the outside of the tube... only the head part that is seen.
This makes it far easier to make e'm. 😉
When installing the tube in a drill or lathe chuck, engage as much tube as possible in the chuck jaws, NOT as little as possible, especially if you intend touching the tube with a hacksaw to part off, or a file to chamfer... even polishing! Just don't tighten the chuck heavy.
Remember, the smaller the diameter work piece (or drill) - the higher the machining speed... especially polishing.
When installing the insert remember you are compressing a lot of air into that pocket... and not compressing whateva 'glue', so be mindful if your seeking a tight flush fit.
Plumbing fittings / pipe are an excellent source of materials. The brass can be turned easily with abrasion and use of the Drill press (best horizontal axis mounting across a bench, so it can be used as a sanding Lathe too). Brass fittings can be easily mounted up on a shaft to drill machine mount and 'machined' to tube size and formed to produce a hole saw with zero tooth set - making a self installing tube insert - cutting wood for a precision metal/wood fit. You can make plug cutters from brass tube too.
With large diameter inserts (say 20-25mm) maybe cut the wood core insert from the panel your plugging for a perfect timber grain match. That would have you use brass core drill in 10-15mm (no centre drill) > carefully remove plug from panel > drill mounting hole > Screw/bolt fixture > carefully install the insert with 'mother' grain aligned.... easy.
I like mosaic pins
Plumbing tools;
Cu. tube flairing kit is very useful. Two bits to this too... a screw clamp and vice.
It can work the Cu. to achieve a larger apparent wall thickness of the tube insert. ie. I could have the 1/4" tube appear to be 3-5 mm wall thickness at the face... or 20mm easy if a Cu. washer was included into the design.
The tool can be used to drive the wood dowel into the tube if the usually 45* flair cone is converted to a flat face driver, rather than the flair former.
The tube clamp (vice) used alone, is a safe way to hold the tube, preventing distortion when cutting or driving pins into woods.
Tube Cutters, having a disc blade + two rollers, are the best way to part off the 15mm pins, after polishing the pins head. Using a hacksaw is a bit on the 'hack' bodgie side for my liking.
If you must buy the tube always get the 'hard drawn' type.
I’ve subconsciously thought this for awhile, I’m sure, but I’m saying it today, March 12,2023…. you host my favorite channel! I learn something every time I see your work. Thanks RC!
Thanks!
You said “schmutz”. ❤❤❤❤❤
I watched twice to make sure I caught all the information! Great video. I really like the quality of your content. Thank you so much!
Tack bra idé
Crocus cloth or emery cloth is meant for sanding and/or polishing copper pipe.
Well, that worked out, didn't it? 😄
If you are looking for a japanese saw for fine cross cuts on small stock, try looking for a purely cross cut Dozuki saw (those saw that have backs). The ones with universal teeth cut very fine too, great for dovetails, but the ones for cross cuts only have much finer teeth, much smaller set and even on softwoods like pine they leave almost a finished look that could be mistaken for a planed surface.
Beautifully done!!
AWSEOME!!!!!
I have thoughts of some fairly simple yet heirloom quality designs. Your stuff is more involved, but there is so much to take away and be influenced by. I think a bit of metal on a simple piece could be a very nice touch. Interesting comment at the end. Thanks as always.
Rockler makes an inexpensive gent's saw with tiny teeth. Yet one more option.
With a dremel and some rouge you could really shine it up.
I like that idea, although I'd be concerned about discoloration of the wood. Since it's the end grain that's exposed, it'll soak up stuff pretty readily.
@@themountaintopjoinersshop8422 You can protect the wood with a drop of hot melt glue or some tape or shellac. It should be done before they are installed of course.
@@themountaintopjoinersshop8422 How about using a strop? On the drill press, take a little band of leather loaded with the same stopping compound used to polish cutting edges. You may use it only on the sides of the plug (to avoid contaminating the wood), as the bevel is small enough to not need that much polish. That's how I polish aluminium to a mirror.
Good tip!