Nice video My turbo on my golf 5 1.9 tdi bxe just started malfunctioning, loss of power while driving, no check engine or anything but it did throw an overboost error on vcds
If you turn the car off and back on it should reset, Overboost error is usually caused by sticky turbo vanes, see if the actuator moves freely & smoothly before removing the turbo because you can clean it on the car to fix the issue.
@@DubworxMedia yep, you are right, after restarting the engine the car runs fine, i already did 2 small trips with it but i was super scared and didnt really rev it above 2k, i usually drive at 2.5k-3.5 Will do mate thanks
Good stuff, ill be needing this soon 😄 Ive got a caddy 1.9 but i guess its about the same. Throwing the underboost code, im thinking its going to be a bad wastegate.
@@DubworxMedia%22 Had a look at it yesterday and it turns out to be the EGR cooler valve thats leaking. Cant decide wheter to replace cooler or do an EGR delete.
Hi Callum sound video this mate very informative. I've recently purchased an old b6 Passat with the 105 PD just watching videos on turbos as I have the turbo siren noise. where are you based? im in manchester wouldn't mind someone that knows about these engines like yourself casting your eye over
Always wanted to try this on my 1.4tdi polo, is there any downsides to removing egr + cooler such as engine warm up etc? My BMS has an electronic egr so may be different that the standard practice
No downsides as far as I'm aware, with it being diesel it takes forever to warm up anyway, electronic EGRs have to be mapped out unless you're not bothered about an EML on the dash
Make sure both of the bolts that hold it on to the intake manifold are removed then use hose clamp pliers to remove the hose clamp & pull/pry it off the turbo. hope that makes sense
Good video that, you had to take the sub frame under plate off didn't you? Asking because it wasn't shown, load's of questions for you tbh. I've got a 1.9tdi it's a bxe, last of the 1.9's on a 09 reg. I've noticed that the coolant is slightly darker with little bubbles in, still running fine with no overheating or anything. I searched UA-cam with my car Make, model and engine type then egr removal, (your video came up first) I'm thinking my egr cooler is leaking exhaust gas Into the coolant line's that run through it? That or the head gasket has gone and is only showing slight signs of leakage. Or my oil cooler housing is cracked or something related to that has give up? Didn't you have problems with your ECU after deleting the egr, just curious. My car's a estate, had it for near seven years, been great for me, I've serviced the engine and gearbox myself and looked after the running gear as well of course. I've got to do the balance shaft in the oil pump soon, been needed doing for a bit so I've given the car minimal use only because of that. Thank you for taking the time to make the video, it really helps me.
Hi, thanks for the comment, this vehicle came in with no undertray so yes that will need removing to access the underside of the turbo, in terms of ECU issues, I'm guessing you mean error codes and dashboard warning lights, this vehicle was an early Mk5 so it had a mechanical EGR valve so there's no way for the ECU to know that it's there, if it's electrical then it will need "coding out" so you don't get any warnings, hope that helps
@@DubworxMedia thanks for the reply. I'm talking about the cast aluminium sub frame plate that the engine dog bone mount goes into, it has the ARB bolt's fixed to it, along with the wishbone rear bolts and the power steering rack bolts that are T-T-Y or stretch bolts. Only asking because I've fitted a New ARB not long ago and know how much of a pain it is getting everything off and back on again.
@@jemmace2586ah I see what you mean, the subframe stayed on, what model are you doing it on? This video was on a mk5 golf but I think models like the touran and caddy are much tighter for access
@@DubworxMedia same as the one in the video, mines a mk5 1.9tdi, bxe engine so the last of them that vag made, I think? I think the bxe has longer Conrods. The problem I'm having is seeing the coolant going darker over the years, I've just done a coolant change and I'm thinking the problem is the egr cooler or the oil cooler, I reckon there's oil or exhaust gas seeping into the coolant system somewhere in the two of those ancillaries. I need to change the balance shaft in the oil pump, it's about 25k overdue, I'm hoping me not changing it sooner hasn't caused an issue with the head, with the balance shaft rounding off and the pump not working at 100% efficiency. I hear one of the Conrods are prone to snapping because of it, with overheating and hotspots in the head. I'm ok with doing jobs on a car after I've researched what the common problems are but I definitely wouldn't call myself a mechanic or even a enthusiast. More like a rough diyer. Thank you for the videos 👍
Hi Callum. This is amazing video. It has helped a lot. I had to replace CHRA on my turbo but after putting everything back together, priming turbo ect......it sounds like spanners in can. No oil leak, no boost leak(maybe a little). Oil pressure 50PSI. What do you think it could be?
It's been a while since I've done a mk5 turbo but I think they have an adapter for the feed line like the older stuff does, the adapter has a washer but the feed line doesn't, make sure you tightened the adapter before fitting the feed line
I thought Egr delete was MOT failure these days? I have a 1.9tdi golf mk5 and yesterday out of nowhere a really high whistle when accelerating. It sounds like an electric car (and quit cool if I'm honest) I'm nursing the car now but I assume it's the turbo, though it doesn't smoke and no power loss (with normal driving anyway) it's 142k miles so bang on for the failure of a turbo which does maybe 150k im led to believe? I cleaned my egr valve last MOT as it was caked and bought a cheap code delete machine. It passed and the inspector said it was way down from the limit set for emissions but the check engine light comes on. I assume it was because I did half a job and didn't remove the manifold to do the fire clean. Anyway, do you think some crap has blown into the turbo and that's why it's whistling or is this a classic indicator of an imminent total failure? I see little point buying a used turbo from a scrappy so what do you think about a turbo rebuild kit? Any advice would be appreciated. Like I say, it drives fine but sounds like a new F1 car.
EGR delete is an MOT fail so only for non road use but the engine cover will cover it so an MOT tester can't fail it if they cant see it however an engine light is an instant fail, the whistle could be anything but usually a high pitched whistle is manifold or EGR leak, commonly the EGR gasket or cracked EGR pipe, if it's more of a whine then it'll be the turbo about to fail as that's what this one did before snapping the shaft, turbo core kits are ok if you get a decent one that has already been balanced but I'd recommend a recon turbo as the bolts usually snap when trying to remove them and also needs all new gaskets etc, but the main reason is the warranty, recon turbo usually a minimum of 12 months whereas a core will get dismissed as installation error if it failed.
Step-by-Step Guide to EGR Delete with TunerPro: 1. Read the ECU File: Use your ECU reading tool (e.g., MPPS, KESS, KTAG) to extract the BIN file from your car’s ECU. Save a backup of the original BIN file to avoid bricking the ECU or losing the factory settings. 2. Open TunerPro and Load XDF/BIN Files: Open TunerPro and load the correct XDF file for your vehicle’s ECU. Load the BIN file that you extracted from the ECU. 3. Locate the EGR Maps: In TunerPro, using the XDF file, look for EGR-related maps. These could be labeled as: EGR Duty Cycle EGR Activation EGR Map EGR Off Threshold The exact names depend on your ECU type and the XDF file. 4. Modify EGR Maps: EGR Duty Cycle Maps: Set the EGR duty cycle values to 0% or the minimum allowable value across the map. This prevents the ECU from activating the EGR valve. EGR Switch: In some ECUs, there may be a dedicated parameter for enabling/disabling the EGR. If available, set the switch to "Off" or "0". Temperature Thresholds: Some ECUs control the EGR function based on temperature or load thresholds. You can modify these to values that effectively prevent the EGR from activating. 5. Checksum Correction: After making changes, you need to correct the checksum of the modified BIN file. Many ECU tools can do this automatically when writing back the file, but if not, you will need to use a checksum correction tool. Skipping this step can result in the ECU rejecting the modified file or bricking. 6. Flash the Modified BIN File: Use your ECU flashing tool to write the modified BIN file back to the ECU. Ensure the flashing process is done correctly without interruptions. 7. Clear DTCs (Diagnostic Trouble Codes): Once the modified file is flashed, clear any stored DTCs related to the EGR system using an OBD-II scanner. This helps to avoid the ECU going into limp mode. 8. Test the Car: Start the car and check for any warning lights or error codes. Take the car for a test drive and ensure that it runs smoothly and that the EGR function is disabled.@@bonza007
I have a strange one here I don’t know if you’ve come across it . Mk5 1.9 tdi bkd engine . Was driving fine for about half hour then limp mode came on then within minutes engine stops , emission’s garage , can’t start car now , disconnects battery left and then retried 1 hour later ,have now taken of flap and valve off and fully cleaned, replaced and no change . Have diagnostics and cleared all faults and still not starting emissions garage, help please mate if you can
Hard to say without seeing it in person if it's all related and not more than 1 issue I'd go through everything emissions related and check it's all operating properly check sensor etc on live data
I just bought a vw touran 1.9 tdi 2008 and my turbo loses power times now and I was about to change my oil and everything else for a service then noticed alot of oil coming from my turbo. Any recommendations please? Could it be the chra or a pipe?? 9th March 23"
It depends a lot on where the oil is coming from, it could be internal seals, external seals, oil vapour from the breathers that has collected in the boost pipes, it varies, if it isn't smoking from the exhaust and if it isn't using lots of oil then I wouldn't worry about it. As for the power loss that could also be various things like turbo, boost control, fuelling, vacuum leak, solenoids, wiring, there's a lot of variables and without checking for codes and doing various tests there's no way of knowing
Very good diy👍 just one question. Did you remove anything underneath the engine? Like the large aluminium plate that covers alot of the area under there?
It was quite a while ago but I think everything I removed was covered in the video, the car didn't have any undertrays etc, I'm not sure what aluminium plate you mean.
@@DubworxMedia ok. On my 2006 Touran with BKC its almost impossible to reach the turbo from underneath,because of a wide large aluminium plate that goes across the front end,i cant get my hand between the drive axle and this plate.
@@concretesub8253 sometimes there is a shroud protecting the inner CV boot from heat that is held on with 16mm bolts but that is usually GRP I'm not familiar with any other covers/shrouds unless it is something that someone else has fitted, without seeing it I couldn't tell you what it is, maybe link a short video on your channel.
@@KlausKernChristensen good luck, it's fairly simple once you've got access just don't rush it and make sure you use new gaskets and don't forget to prime the new turbo as shown.
is that first turbo at 200k? seizing like that wtf i take it they ignored the bearing noise, manifold use oven cleaner like the foam type it liquefies carbon even the hard carbon its shocking how it works i did it on my EGR than rinsed off with EGR or brake cleaner works very well, will look like new after that
Over 200k iirc, started whining then blew, no warning other than a slight whine for a mile or so, it snapped the shaft and wedged the exhaust impeller blocking the exhaust flow and choking the engine.
It was whining for a day then went pop and when started it would cut out after a few second due to the exhaust impeller being stuck solid, the shaft had snapped so intake side would spin but the exhaust side wouldn't which would choke out the engine.
i have different symptoms. mine 77kw 19.tdi and have lost power, sometimes in high rpm going to limp mode, and got engine foult: turbo overboost. mine egr cooler fill up to the top with oil. i blocked egr with plate like yours in video. Going on 120km consume 7.4l/100km.
@@KestasL007 have you removed the cooler completely? Overboost can be a few things but I would start with checking the turbo actuator is moving freely as that can cause an overboost and is getting more common with the age & mileage of the cars.
Can you use a plastic barb hose join or does it need to be brass? Also just so I'm 100% sure you join the two larger pipes coming out of the bulk head together right?
@@francismccarthy3171 The connector I used was Aluminium, I wouldn't recommend plastic as it'll break once it's been through a few heat cycles, 1 pipe from the bulk head to the engine and the other pipe is already attached to the engine, the pipes you connect would have both gone to the EGR cooler so you're replacing the cooler with a connector.
@@francismccarthy3171 No I'm not on IG, it's self explanatory once you get into it, 1 pipe may need shortening slightly so it doesn't kink but as long as both bulkhead pipes go to the engine it's a complete circuit & nothing to worry about.
Great vid. My only concern. Is im not sure where to squeeze in the oil to prime the turbo? Ill have look online to see exact hole you put it in to prime. I keep on top of my egr valve regularly but thinkin doing same as u.replace turbo and cleanr manifolds etc.
Mr partner has got the overboost problem with her 2009 1.9 tdi Touran she put turbo cleaner in through the fuel which cleared the code but was still going into limp mode and after a short while light came back on did you say there was a way to clean it without taking it off?
Yes, you can clean the turbo without removing it however you will need to disconnect the downpipe, it doesn't have to be removed. Then spray oven cleaner in the exhaust side of the turbo. Work the actuator up and down by hand or vacuum pump, repeat as necessary. Once you're satisfied it's free and clean, blow out what you can with compressed air and reassemble. Start the car as normal and see if there's a difference. I hope that makes sense and helps.
Did you have to map the cooler and egr out ? I had my transporter mapped earlier this year, and the chap said if i blank the egr, it won't need mapping ?
Might be a stupid question mate but when it comes to priming the turbo what did you discount off the car to stop it firing up. Iv got the same job to look forward too haha
I have same problem, my egr cooler is drip coolant to the turbo manifold, lost new turbo in year, can i only bypass hoses without removing cooler? Do you put blank plate below egr also?
You can bypass the cooler but it's likely to causes issues unless it's blanked off too, you could just blank off the exhaust manifold side and bypass the coolant leaving the rest in place but it seems a lot of effort to only do half of the job.
i did this and changed new turbo which was used, but after install turbo screams like drill when i accelerate, sound like turbo spins without oil and now im not sure did i something wrong or is the new used turbo broken..
Tackled today and took me just under 10 hours! I’m by no means a mechanic but not afraid to get my hands dirty, and that I did. Only issue I had really was the feed pipe was seized so cut off and put another on. Thanks for this video, I referred to it a few times on the job.
@@francism1984 nice one, well done, the feed pipes usually get stuck to the adapter, I've ended up making a really skinny 14mm spanner to hold the adapter so I can crack off the 17mm feed line nut, if it's your first time then I'd say it's a massive achievement.
Nice video
My turbo on my golf 5 1.9 tdi bxe just started malfunctioning, loss of power while driving, no check engine or anything but it did throw an overboost error on vcds
If you turn the car off and back on it should reset, Overboost error is usually caused by sticky turbo vanes, see if the actuator moves freely & smoothly before removing the turbo because you can clean it on the car to fix the issue.
@@DubworxMedia yep, you are right, after restarting the engine the car runs fine, i already did 2 small trips with it but i was super scared and didnt really rev it above 2k, i usually drive at 2.5k-3.5
Will do mate thanks
Good stuff, ill be needing this soon 😄 Ive got a caddy 1.9 but i guess its about the same. Throwing the underboost code, im thinking its going to be a bad wastegate.
Underboost is usually a boost leak, they're terrible for it, or sticking turbo vanes is the other common fault
@@DubworxMedia%22 Had a look at it yesterday and it turns out to be the EGR cooler valve thats leaking. Cant decide wheter to replace cooler or do an EGR delete.
@@BackmansGarage legally you can't remove emmisions equipment on a road going car but I'd be very surprised if you got checked by VOSA
@@BackmansGarage the EGR cooler leaking was causing the underboost? keen to know as i'm suffering the same thing and its driving me mad.
@@u04pww2 Yes the EGR cooler was leaking at the actuator for the valve. Didn't throw any more codes after the replacement and ran alot better.
Excellent stuff. Gives me the confidence to dump that gas cooler. Cheers.
Hi Callum sound video this mate very informative. I've recently purchased an old b6 Passat with the 105 PD just watching videos on turbos as I have the turbo siren noise. where are you based? im in manchester wouldn't mind someone that knows about these engines like yourself casting your eye over
I'm in Halifax so not that far away
Always wanted to try this on my 1.4tdi polo, is there any downsides to removing egr + cooler such as engine warm up etc? My BMS has an electronic egr so may be different that the standard practice
No downsides as far as I'm aware, with it being diesel it takes forever to warm up anyway, electronic EGRs have to be mapped out unless you're not bothered about an EML on the dash
How long u to do this job ???? Sample way to replace turbo is removed drive side drive shaft and it atot easy to change turbo I have do 20 turbo
Doing the same job on my A3. Just wondering how you got the intake pipe off the turbo since I’m struggling to get mine off
Make sure both of the bolts that hold it on to the intake manifold are removed then use hose clamp pliers to remove the hose clamp & pull/pry it off the turbo. hope that makes sense
Bro did you put back EGR cooler?
No, it was removed.
Good video that, you had to take the sub frame under plate off didn't you? Asking because it wasn't shown, load's of questions for you tbh.
I've got a 1.9tdi it's a bxe, last of the 1.9's on a 09 reg.
I've noticed that the coolant is slightly darker with little bubbles in, still running fine with no overheating or anything.
I searched UA-cam with my car Make, model and engine type then egr removal, (your video came up first) I'm thinking my egr cooler is leaking exhaust gas Into the coolant line's that run through it? That or the head gasket has gone and is only showing slight signs of leakage.
Or my oil cooler housing is cracked or something related to that has give up? Didn't you have problems with your ECU after deleting the egr, just curious.
My car's a estate, had it for near seven years, been great for me, I've serviced the engine and gearbox myself and looked after the running gear as well of course.
I've got to do the balance shaft in the oil pump soon, been needed doing for a bit so I've given the car minimal use only because of that.
Thank you for taking the time to make the video, it really helps me.
Hi, thanks for the comment, this vehicle came in with no undertray so yes that will need removing to access the underside of the turbo, in terms of ECU issues, I'm guessing you mean error codes and dashboard warning lights, this vehicle was an early Mk5 so it had a mechanical EGR valve so there's no way for the ECU to know that it's there, if it's electrical then it will need "coding out" so you don't get any warnings, hope that helps
@@DubworxMedia thanks for the reply.
I'm talking about the cast aluminium sub frame plate that the engine dog bone mount goes into, it has the ARB bolt's fixed to it, along with the wishbone rear bolts and the power steering rack bolts that are T-T-Y or stretch bolts.
Only asking because I've fitted a New ARB not long ago and know how much of a pain it is getting everything off and back on again.
@@DubworxMedia subscribed to your channel after seeing your vag video list, I'll watch them over the coming weeks. 👍
@@jemmace2586ah I see what you mean, the subframe stayed on, what model are you doing it on? This video was on a mk5 golf but I think models like the touran and caddy are much tighter for access
@@DubworxMedia same as the one in the video, mines a mk5 1.9tdi, bxe engine so the last of them that vag made, I think?
I think the bxe has longer Conrods.
The problem I'm having is seeing the coolant going darker over the years, I've just done a coolant change and I'm thinking the problem is the egr cooler or the oil cooler, I reckon there's oil or exhaust gas seeping into the coolant system somewhere in the two of those ancillaries.
I need to change the balance shaft in the oil pump, it's about 25k overdue, I'm hoping me not changing it sooner hasn't caused an issue with the head, with the balance shaft rounding off and the pump not working at 100% efficiency. I hear one of the Conrods are prone to snapping because of it, with overheating and hotspots in the head.
I'm ok with doing jobs on a car after I've researched what the common problems are but I definitely wouldn't call myself a mechanic or even a enthusiast.
More like a rough diyer. Thank you for the videos 👍
Hi Callum. This is amazing video. It has helped a lot. I had to replace CHRA on my turbo but after putting everything back together, priming turbo ect......it sounds like spanners in can. No oil leak, no boost leak(maybe a little). Oil pressure 50PSI. What do you think it could be?
Without hearing the noise I couldn't possibly say but double check there's nothing loose, rattling, exhaust leaks etc.
@@DubworxMedia could I send you video somewhere?
@@seko1330 maybe link a video on your channel
Great video. Thank you.
Hi Mate, Brilliant video (im removing the EGR cooler and fitted a bigger turbo) What size 90 do i need to join coolant hoses? Thanks
Sorry for the very late reply but for anyone reading comments it's a 19mm OD coupler, the ID of the pipes are 19mm
Did you put a washer on when you bolted the turbo feed down ? Ive just fitted new turbo now getting a leak from what looks like is the feed
It's been a while since I've done a mk5 turbo but I think they have an adapter for the feed line like the older stuff does, the adapter has a washer but the feed line doesn't, make sure you tightened the adapter before fitting the feed line
Should the top hose connecting to the inlet flap and egr valve have oil in it?
Sorry for the late reply, yes that's normal as long as it's not excessive/a build up
What about turbo gasket? You didn’t change it
It's been a while but I will have changed the necessary gaskets as they're a consumable item
I thought Egr delete was MOT failure these days?
I have a 1.9tdi golf mk5 and yesterday out of nowhere a really high whistle when accelerating. It sounds like an electric car (and quit cool if I'm honest) I'm nursing the car now but I assume it's the turbo, though it doesn't smoke and no power loss (with normal driving anyway) it's 142k miles so bang on for the failure of a turbo which does maybe 150k im led to believe? I cleaned my egr valve last MOT as it was caked and bought a cheap code delete machine. It passed and the inspector said it was way down from the limit set for emissions but the check engine light comes on. I assume it was because I did half a job and didn't remove the manifold to do the fire clean. Anyway, do you think some crap has blown into the turbo and that's why it's whistling or is this a classic indicator of an imminent total failure? I see little point buying a used turbo from a scrappy so what do you think about a turbo rebuild kit? Any advice would be appreciated. Like I say, it drives fine but sounds like a new F1 car.
EGR delete is an MOT fail so only for non road use but the engine cover will cover it so an MOT tester can't fail it if they cant see it however an engine light is an instant fail, the whistle could be anything but usually a high pitched whistle is manifold or EGR leak, commonly the EGR gasket or cracked EGR pipe, if it's more of a whine then it'll be the turbo about to fail as that's what this one did before snapping the shaft, turbo core kits are ok if you get a decent one that has already been balanced but I'd recommend a recon turbo as the bolts usually snap when trying to remove them and also needs all new gaskets etc, but the main reason is the warranty, recon turbo usually a minimum of 12 months whereas a core will get dismissed as installation error if it failed.
I just did this to my BXE engine. What did you do for the Code Delete? I have to do that now to tidy up.
Step-by-Step Guide to EGR Delete with TunerPro:
1. Read the ECU File:
Use your ECU reading tool (e.g., MPPS, KESS, KTAG) to extract the BIN file from your car’s ECU.
Save a backup of the original BIN file to avoid bricking the ECU or losing the factory settings.
2. Open TunerPro and Load XDF/BIN Files:
Open TunerPro and load the correct XDF file for your vehicle’s ECU.
Load the BIN file that you extracted from the ECU.
3. Locate the EGR Maps:
In TunerPro, using the XDF file, look for EGR-related maps. These could be labeled as:
EGR Duty Cycle
EGR Activation
EGR Map
EGR Off Threshold
The exact names depend on your ECU type and the XDF file.
4. Modify EGR Maps:
EGR Duty Cycle Maps: Set the EGR duty cycle values to 0% or the minimum allowable value across the map. This prevents the ECU from activating the EGR valve.
EGR Switch: In some ECUs, there may be a dedicated parameter for enabling/disabling the EGR. If available, set the switch to "Off" or "0".
Temperature Thresholds: Some ECUs control the EGR function based on temperature or load thresholds. You can modify these to values that effectively prevent the EGR from activating.
5. Checksum Correction:
After making changes, you need to correct the checksum of the modified BIN file. Many ECU tools can do this automatically when writing back the file, but if not, you will need to use a checksum correction tool.
Skipping this step can result in the ECU rejecting the modified file or bricking.
6. Flash the Modified BIN File:
Use your ECU flashing tool to write the modified BIN file back to the ECU.
Ensure the flashing process is done correctly without interruptions.
7. Clear DTCs (Diagnostic Trouble Codes):
Once the modified file is flashed, clear any stored DTCs related to the EGR system using an OBD-II scanner.
This helps to avoid the ECU going into limp mode.
8. Test the Car:
Start the car and check for any warning lights or error codes.
Take the car for a test drive and ensure that it runs smoothly and that the EGR function is disabled.@@bonza007
So do I start car to see if oil is coming out the oil fed pipe that goes into turbo
No, you just crank it with the injector loom unplugged so that it doesn't start
I have a strange one here I don’t know if you’ve come across it . Mk5 1.9 tdi bkd engine . Was driving fine for about half hour then limp mode came on then within minutes engine stops , emission’s garage , can’t start car now , disconnects battery left and then retried 1 hour later ,have now taken of flap and valve off and fully cleaned, replaced and no change . Have diagnostics and cleared all faults and still not starting emissions garage, help please mate if you can
Hard to say without seeing it in person if it's all related and not more than 1 issue I'd go through everything emissions related and check it's all operating properly check sensor etc on live data
@@DubworxMedia thanks will start that the weekend
I just bought a vw touran 1.9 tdi 2008 and my turbo loses power times now and I was about to change my oil and everything else for a service then noticed alot of oil coming from my turbo. Any recommendations please? Could it be the chra or a pipe?? 9th March 23"
It depends a lot on where the oil is coming from, it could be internal seals, external seals, oil vapour from the breathers that has collected in the boost pipes, it varies, if it isn't smoking from the exhaust and if it isn't using lots of oil then I wouldn't worry about it.
As for the power loss that could also be various things like turbo, boost control, fuelling, vacuum leak, solenoids, wiring, there's a lot of variables and without checking for codes and doing various tests there's no way of knowing
Very good diy👍 just one question.
Did you remove anything underneath the engine? Like the large aluminium plate that covers alot of the area under there?
It was quite a while ago but I think everything I removed was covered in the video, the car didn't have any undertrays etc, I'm not sure what aluminium plate you mean.
@@DubworxMedia ok.
On my 2006 Touran with BKC its almost impossible to reach the turbo from underneath,because of a wide large aluminium plate that goes across the front end,i cant get my hand between the drive axle and this plate.
@@concretesub8253 sometimes there is a shroud protecting the inner CV boot from heat that is held on with 16mm bolts but that is usually GRP I'm not familiar with any other covers/shrouds unless it is something that someone else has fitted, without seeing it I couldn't tell you what it is, maybe link a short video on your channel.
@@DubworxMedia ok. This vid gives me confidence to replace it,thanks alot.
@@DubworxMedia i forgot to ask,the 90 deegree elbow for the two large hoses on the egr-cooler,is that 19mm outside dia?
What size coupler is needed to join the hoses
Sorry for the late reply, 19mm for future ref
Do you need to clear codes for injectors before starting up, aften cranking it without injection loom?
No it starts fine no EML either, it's been a while since I did it but I don't think it logs a code.
@@DubworxMediaCool. I'm going to change the turbo on mine tomorrow, that's why I asked. But thanks for the answer.
@@KlausKernChristensen good luck, it's fairly simple once you've got access just don't rush it and make sure you use new gaskets and don't forget to prime the new turbo as shown.
Where you based need advice
is that first turbo at 200k? seizing like that wtf i take it they ignored the bearing noise, manifold use oven cleaner like the foam type it liquefies carbon even the hard carbon its shocking how it works i did it on my EGR than rinsed off with EGR or brake cleaner works very well, will look like new after that
Over 200k iirc, started whining then blew, no warning other than a slight whine for a mile or so, it snapped the shaft and wedged the exhaust impeller blocking the exhaust flow and choking the engine.
@@DubworxMedia any idea of cause?
@@namAlexander I think it was a combination of a tired old turbo, aggressive map and driving style
@@DubworxMedia there luckily the impeller didn’t shatter that would of made a right mess
@@namAlexander it certainly would have
what was the problem when you though : need turbo change
It was whining for a day then went pop and when started it would cut out after a few second due to the exhaust impeller being stuck solid, the shaft had snapped so intake side would spin but the exhaust side wouldn't which would choke out the engine.
i have different symptoms. mine 77kw 19.tdi and have lost power, sometimes in high rpm going to limp mode, and got engine foult: turbo overboost. mine egr cooler fill up to the top with oil. i blocked egr with plate like yours in video. Going on 120km consume 7.4l/100km.
@@KestasL007 have you removed the cooler completely? Overboost can be a few things but I would start with checking the turbo actuator is moving freely as that can cause an overboost and is getting more common with the age & mileage of the cars.
Hi good video, very informative. What is the engine code on your car?
Thanks
This was on a 1.9 8v BKC PD105
Hi mate, what size was the 90 degree for the egr cooler pipes loop?
19mm OD
Can you use a plastic barb hose join or does it need to be brass? Also just so I'm 100% sure you join the two larger pipes coming out of the bulk head together right?
@@francismccarthy3171 The connector I used was Aluminium, I wouldn't recommend plastic as it'll break once it's been through a few heat cycles, 1 pipe from the bulk head to the engine and the other pipe is already attached to the engine, the pipes you connect would have both gone to the EGR cooler so you're replacing the cooler with a connector.
@@DubworxMedia spot on mate thanks are you on IG? Can I send ya a photo over just to double check something
@@francismccarthy3171 No I'm not on IG, it's self explanatory once you get into it, 1 pipe may need shortening slightly so it doesn't kink but as long as both bulkhead pipes go to the engine it's a complete circuit & nothing to worry about.
I'm in Stockport and can't find a decent mechanic to do exactly this to my caddy 🤦♂️
It depends on your budget, decent means you've got to pay a specialist usually.
Wheel acid jet wash
Where's your shop located?
West Yorkshire, UK
Great vid.
My only concern. Is im not sure where to squeeze in the oil to prime the turbo?
Ill have look online to see exact hole you put it in to prime.
I keep on top of my egr valve regularly but thinkin doing same as u.replace turbo and cleanr manifolds etc.
Well explained and nice and slow while talking, really big help many thanks
Very good video friend
Thank you .turbo is off thanks to you quickly 👍
Glad the video helped
Mr partner has got the overboost problem with her 2009 1.9 tdi Touran she put turbo cleaner in through the fuel which cleared the code but was still going into limp mode and after a short while light came back on did you say there was a way to clean it without taking it off?
Yes, you can clean the turbo without removing it however you will need to disconnect the downpipe, it doesn't have to be removed.
Then spray oven cleaner in the exhaust side of the turbo.
Work the actuator up and down by hand or vacuum pump, repeat as necessary. Once you're satisfied it's free and clean, blow out what you can with compressed air and reassemble.
Start the car as normal and see if there's a difference.
I hope that makes sense and helps.
Did you have to map the cooler and egr out ? I had my transporter mapped earlier this year, and the chap said if i blank the egr, it won't need mapping ?
Typically yes it'll need mapping out but chances are he's already mapped it out, sorry for the mega slow reply
Might be a stupid question mate but when it comes to priming the turbo what did you discount off the car to stop it firing up. Iv got the same job to look forward too haha
I unplugged the injector loom, quickest and easiest way I've found
how do you immobilize the car to pump the oil through , can’t seem to figure it out
Unplug the injector loom
How did u crank without start just pull the injector loom
Unplug the injector loom on the outside of the head
I have same problem, my egr cooler is drip coolant to the turbo manifold, lost new turbo in year, can i only bypass hoses without removing cooler? Do you put blank plate below egr also?
You can bypass the cooler but it's likely to causes issues unless it's blanked off too, you could just blank off the exhaust manifold side and bypass the coolant leaving the rest in place but it seems a lot of effort to only do half of the job.
Yes, i decide to go exactly like in your video in the end, my is also BKC, all went good. No cel light, thanks
i did this and changed new turbo which was used, but after install turbo screams like drill when i accelerate, sound like turbo spins without oil and now im not sure did i something wrong or is the new used turbo broken..
A screaming noise is usually an exhaust leak before the turbo or a boost leak, hope that helps.
I currently have screaming noise on my mk2 Octavia (same bkc engine), and the cause of it lies in blown gasket where egr connects to exhaust manifold.
Is the hose coming from turbo feels like loosen ? Wiggle ? Is it ok?
Which one? The intake or boost pipe?
How long roughly did it take to do this?
It's a job that should take a few hours if going steady, probably 2hrs minimum
You come across any seized bolts/studs? If so what's best way to tackle them
@@roberthopper7903 yes it'll usually unwind the whole stud, if it's rounded you'll need a nut extractor
How did you loop the pipes? For the cooler
Great video, thanks! I’m going to be replacing my BXE turbo this weekend. Don’t suppose you have a rough time it should take? Thanks!
Depends on skill level and tools, at best it'd be an hour, at worst 3hrs, if it takes longer then something isn't right, depends how it goes really
Thanks for replying mate. Doesn’t look too bad of a job thanks to your vid.
@@francism1984 it went fairly smooth but all it takes is 1 snapped stud or stripped nut to make it into a massive job
Tackled today and took me just under 10 hours! I’m by no means a mechanic but not afraid to get my hands dirty, and that I did. Only issue I had really was the feed pipe was seized so cut off and put another on. Thanks for this video, I referred to it a few times on the job.
@@francism1984 nice one, well done, the feed pipes usually get stuck to the adapter, I've ended up making a really skinny 14mm spanner to hold the adapter so I can crack off the 17mm feed line nut, if it's your first time then I'd say it's a massive achievement.
this looks more expensive than a new used car
The Turbo was £275 with warranty.
Where was the turbo from pal? I’m planning on doing mine at some point in the coming days if you fancy giving a hand and I’ll pay you