Excellent information, writing this April 2022. Hayterette 3.5 hp B&S engine not ran since 1973. Now running thanks to this info :) Thanks from across the pond.
I started doing this at 13 years old. I fixed dozens of mowers in our neighborhood... in the 70's. You can take a piece of wood and tap the ears on the starter clutch to get it off, rather than doing the rope thing. Did dozens and never broke an ear.
Great video. I wish my brother and I had known about the nylon rope in the cylinder trick when we were teenagers working on mowers and tillers about, well, 50 years ago! He finally got a special tool that fit the fins on the flywheel, but until then we struggled with long screw drivers and judicious tapping, lol. My interest was rekindled in this as I recently got an old tiller with a B&S that I remembered from my days as a kid repairman and I had forgotten the plug and point gaps (did I mention it was about fifty years ago?) When I worked for a feed store in high school maintaining their pump motors on fertilizer rigs I could set the gaps, including the armature, by eye in the field during emergency repairs I was called out on, lol. I'd check the spark by holding the spark plug wire and rolling the flywheel magnet with a quick twist with my other hand. If it gave my arm a good jolt, I knew I was good on the electrical.
I have been an automobile mechanic for over 25 years, but I am still a small engines novice. I find these UA-cam videos very helpful. When I saw you stuffing that rope into the spark plug hole I really wondered about you, and then out came a pipe wrench! To see that crazy technique work is brilliant. Where in the world did you come up with that one? Great job.
ah fond memories of working on all my cars in the 60s and 70s. Worn out distributor cams, worn out or burnt points, etc. Could do a tune up in just over an hour including points, cap, rotor, condenser, plugs, wires, and voila. Throw in an oil change at the same time and it was fun
Great video. That motor was on my dads mower which I pushed all over the place in the late 60's early 70's. I rebuilt it with a couple of buddies when I was 12! Thanks for the memories!
Whoda thunk anyone would need this video, and your other videos on this engine after 18 years. Well, I did! Very succinct and helpful. Thank you for all the videos you made on this engine. They were very helpful for me in rebuilding the carb, and setting the points on my 1965 tiller. It was amazing to discover I could still obtain the part manual and buy the parts for this engine. Now, if can only find a shroud that still has the tabs to hold the Pulley-Starter in place, I'll be good to go. Thanks again for the video!
Awesome video. I've been fighting with my old tiller for over a week. Followed your video and it would seem that dirty points were my nemesis. Loved the way you calmly and clearly explained every step. Thanks a bunch.
Donyboy your vids are the best going around.......great work mate.....very easy to follow and the way you explain things is second to none.......wishing you all the best
this is an antique engine from like 1970 lol. I bought a push mower with an engine like this and it did not run, no spark, had grease on points. cleaned them up and set the valves, run this motor for 5 yrs and gave it to a neighbor and he still has it. These engines were made to last!
big thanks for this video i was ready to scrap my rotorvator as it hasnt been running for 12 months with no spark then i was told about this video by a friend well it took me 20 mins after that it runs fantastic ...........martin ........ england
hey if you haven't already, just put on a electronic magneto, it will bolt up and you won't have to worry about points ever again., im glad briggs made conversion really really easy.
Good job. One thing that is useful to check is the top crankshaft bearing side play. If there is any this can affect the point gap. I found that when adjusting the points it helps to push and hold the crankshaft firmly in the direction away from the magneto. This makes the point gap more accurate when the engine is running and the compression pushes the crankshaft away from the head. Of course if the top bearing play is too much the engine is pretty well shot anyway.
@Mennitti4Congress-It may be a little late, but if you pull the cord, the blades spin but you feel no resistance, I think it may be something internal. When you pull the cord it causes the flywheel to turn which is connected to your upper crankshaft. The blade is at the other end of your crankshaft. If everything is turning freely with no resistance (e.g. no compression) either rod/piston are shot, or your exhaust valve is stuck open. It could also be your head gasket, but that and exhaust valve would have nothing to do with hitting a stump.
I have a tiller very much like yours. It was given to be by a neighbor, Will start very easy them approx 5 min after dies? Haven't has time to work on it. Tank looks free of rust. haven't checked spark yet but hope to work on it Monday...Thanks, Great video
Great video! It made it easy to get my engine apart Had no spark - got my engine torn down, the points are opening and closing... so how do i know if I need to replace the coil or condenser or points or all three?
I looked at the points gap, and it is good and clean. my ? is on the wires that come out,( you mentioned using RTV to protect them) were do they lead out to. there are 2 on mine and they are cut. no idea what they connect to. and could not see it on this video. thanks!
i found your video as reference because it's been so long since i have done points and condenser work.. i'm working on a 1979 b&s 3.5 hp similar to the 1 you have. i noticed 2 wires in where you connect them on the condenser with the spring holding them but not going anywhere just hanging out, nothing to the magneto.. where on the magneto does 1 wire go?
They also have small straight point files available from most auto parts stores, that will make it very easy to dress the points. I have one that I use almost everyday on things like this, and it help out quite a bit.
@donyboy73 my engine is on a antique golf cart and it has not ran for over 10 years so it needs alot of work but ill try replaceing the wire thanks :) and maybe check the points.
Nice video on this old tiller, I have one close to yours with the same issue and this should help me out alot. What about the belts on this for the forward and reverse? I can't get mine to work? Have you done a video on something like that yet?
I found a feeler gauge and I just took the crank off and turned the engine until the timing notches lined up (TDC) then put the casing back on and took the OHV cover off and used the .004 feeler gauge on both the exhaust and carburetor valves and made sure they are snug but not too tight. Is it normal to crank the engine and feel wind come out of the carburetor on the air filter side?
Question - I bought a rototiller with a similar engine (1973 Bolens, Model 2135-02, B&S 3.5 HP engine # 92902-131601). I was able to follow your great carb cleaning video of this engine and the tiller now starts easily on the first pull and runs great. However after about 5-10 minutes once the engine gets hot it shuts off & and am unable to get it started again until it cools down. I've done a lot of research & there are a lot of things I can try changing .. I'm hoping to narrow it down, my next step is going to be to try & check for spark once its hot and maybe replace the ignition coil? Do you have any thoughts or advice?
Any idea of the belt routing underneath the engine? I’ve acquired an old JCPenney with the 3.5 BS and it has one belt but the other is gone and I can’t find ANY info on it. I’m guessing it’s late 70’s. Model 3012B.
It won't start at all. It used to have a On/Off switch on the steering wheel and we disconnected that, but we have not taken the wires off yet. I'm not sure if that is taking power from the spark plug or not. Also, when i crank it, gas blows out as a mist from the carburetor. And it looks like the bowl's o-ring gasket is getting soaked. The float is fine needle and seat are fine. I am not sure but I see a tiny ball bearing it looks like on the side of the center shaft in the bowl. Is that right?
Hi,i have a very old david Bradley tiller with the same motor.Ive cleaned the points and set the gap to 20 thousandths..I also rebuilt the carburetor.It has terrible kick back to it.It has to be the points plunger?right.Can I switch this motor over to electronic ignition?I have a coil that will fit.I love using the old points setup but it seems to me that the points are firing way to early and causing the kickback.
Hey, I say your video. I have a briggs and stratton 5HP just like that one that is on a rotary tiller. I need to replace the condenser. I was told I can do away with the points system simply by purchasing 394970 (magnetron upgrade kit). I was told you have to send the flywheel to b&S for repolirization of the magnets, is this true??? Also I noticed the ignition coil has 2 wires running out of it from underneath. I can't seem to find the same exact ignition coil with 2 wires running out from it
donyboy73 I love your videos. I have a Spiegel tiller that is very similar to the one you have in thepoints video. What I am asking is do you have any idea what size drive belt it takes. I have no manuel to go by and its mext to impossible to measure it. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
hey donyboy I recently did some work on a Briggs and Stratton 3.65hp lawn mower similar to the one you changed diaphragm on but I did the disassembly wrong and cannot get the springs back on perfectly as they do not have any tension even though they are in the right position I think it have to do with the plastic piece attached to the magneto coil and even though the engine started easily it revs in pulses and sounds like it lacks power I also removed coil etc I think this is the problem help.
I have an older (81) up draft carb on an 8HP Briggs. When I took off the point cover all was corroded inside. I installed new points and attempted to set the points. As I rotated the engine, it seemed to me that the points did not move and impossible to set the points. In view of the fact that there was much corrosion in that area could the plunger that opens and closes the points is corroded and won't move?
@1717BY I think you're right. I just bought a new points and condenser coil for my 3.5 hp Briggs that I had electronic ignition on, and before I had to pull the rope harder before it would spark.
I have the points in shortcircuit (tested with tester) also when they are separeted. What it could be? The coil has a R about 2,76 kohm with ground wire attached so it isn't
Sorry for not sounding that smart now but as i am working on small engines i have never come across a system that has the points open like that and closes around tdc....usually they are closed and opens around tdc right?Or am i way too much tired right now? Thank you..i have said it before and say it again,you make really really great videos and also cares about your subscribers.Not many people out there that do that so thanks once again
Hey donyboy73 I have a few questions. I have a Tecumseh 6.0 HP go cart. It will not start. My step-dad said to check the carburetor and using your videos, I cleaned it and rebuilt it. When I try to start the engine, sometimes it backfires and yanks the cord out of my hand, and also it sprays gas out of the air filter side. I checked the spark plug and it didn't have gas on it and didn't even have the smell of gas. The spark plug is getting fire though. What should I do?
i just gut a aluminum mower i think a Jacobsen deck with identical engine what year is your engine mine says 59 on pull cord cover i am starting to think the cover is older cause original engine paint was wight like yours and pull cord shroud was metallic blue i think the points were abandoned and changed to electronic coil its to full of dirt to tell it dose run but needs carb clean.
I have a similar model. The blades were stopping, so I took it apart and found it to be unbelievably filthy inside. So now that it's clean, I cant remember where everything goes. Any idea where to get a diagram of the belt assembly? I haven't had much luck.
hi is a .010 points gap good enough i used the ignition gap setting on my feeler gauge the brass one cause my points where at.004 lol and full of oil but still working?
THANK YOU! this is exacally the video i was looking for! i could not even figure out how to get they flywheel off! now i have a motor to build my rough cut mower for my atv! btw,mine is a horizontal engine 3 hp,do you think it would run a 20 inch blade for cutting 6 ft weeds? they would be dryed out
@donyboy73 there is no conversion kit, just litterally take a electronic magneto from say a 95' or 99' or a brand new one, it will fit right on there, as long as its from another 3.5hp engine or now called the 300 series or the 450 series or 4hp, they are all the same. cause i was able to put my 3.5hp 1991 magneto which is electronic on a 1970s 3hp engine, and i belive it has to be from the same size of engine, but its really easy, just cut the points wire, unbolt magneto, bolt on electro. magn.
It is OHV and it is turning the crank so I don't think the fly wheel key is sheared. I looked up how to adjust the OHV and it said to use a .004 inch feeler gauge and adjust them to that. I just used a sheet of paper and used that for measurement.
I sanded my points and still have no spark. I checked with a volt meter and I show the wire from the coil connected to the tip of the condenser is grounded.. Does this mean a bad coil as I traced the wire and they are not touching the case anywhere AFTER they leave the coil.Points AND condenser tip both show shorted to the case.
RE sanding the points, I have had great luck with a points file. They are around $3.00 for a 2 pack from Amazon, reference below. Much easier that using sand paper. Great Neck 25342 Ign.Pt./Utility File 2Pc Tony
Most engines are .020 but do not sand them. make sure there is no grease/oil on the contacts and B&S recommends you drag clean paper through the points to remove any oil. If you sand the points, use fabric and brake cleaner to remove any grit, it will weld the points as you run the motor. be sure to get the flywheel very tight or it will shear the key... set your valves too .06 in .08-.10 ex it should run awesome... Former B&S mechanic
donyboy73 Sorry for interupting you but I have a question. I managed to get my engine going (3.5HP briggs on a lawnmower, from 74) and it looked extremely like this engine you got right here. However, when i start it, I am unable to get a good low Idle speed. I am guessing it has something to do with that nut you were twisting on in the end there. I am also unable to give it more gas, because then it just shuts off aswell. Do you have any video, or anything i can search for on how to get a good low Idle and a good fast RPM when giving more gas? (probably related to that nut on the carb) Thanks in advance! (Greetings from another norwegian ;) )
I usually go 8&10 for strong compression and it allows for wear. I fixed a lot of mowers that had tight valves Exhaust is bad for that.. I drag wet sandpaper through the opening and it files them down real slow. use brake cleaner to remove any grit.
Great video! I have a 3 hp Briggs motor on a real old Sears Push Mower. I hit a small stump and it stopped the blades cold. It won't start. When I pull the cord the blades turn. It doesn't feel like any additional resistance when I pull the cord. Do you think it is the flywheel key or something else? Thank you.
I have the same tiller and I need help!!!! Ok so the shaft spins freely after the engine is running then I try to start it again and it still spins freely, then I have to hit the shaft with a mallet to get it locked in place
@1972FordF150 How do you know they don't produce as "hot of a spark or as strong of a spark"? Have you verified this to be sure? My experience with these engines shows that the Magnetron electronic ignition produces a far hotter spark than the points and condensers. The electronic coils are not POS, I've never had a single one go bad. Why waste time fiddling with points if you don't have to?
Good ol pulsa jet carbs! I thought that carb spring was in the wrong spot! The cast iron flywheels usually popped off pretty easy. Sometimes it is tough to get those carbs to accelerate real well without raising the idle speed some....I always thought the simpler vacu jet carbs ran better!
I have a rototiller very similar to this, could be the same engine in fact just mounted in reverse. My problem is that I have everything taken off but the plunger doesn't move when I turn the engine over. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to fix this?
Let's hope so. At least i'm gonna take good care of it. But if it goes wrong some day, maybe i fly with it in Canada and ask you to fix it, because you are absolutely brilliant with engines. Well, i actually know one guy near here who also works with small engines, and he is very good with that. But i have watch so many of your videos donyboy, and with pure admiration.
Can somebody give me some advise here. I have a snapper mower with a carb just like this one. It doesnt have points tho.. I checked compression its ok, I checked spark I have a bright blue spark. I pour a little fuel in carb even tho I just rebuilt it with a new diaphram.. But it still wont start.. What else can I check..
i hade a problem with a 5 hp briggs like that (horizontal) we had it on a mini bike and my friend started it and accedentaly droped it on te shroud side and it kept running and busted all the finns off the flywheel and caught on fire and he died. not really. but i put on a new flywheel and put it all back together and it kept shearing keys so we checked the internals and we just about bought a new crankshaft and then we were taking to a guy and we wernt getting that starter clutch on tight enout
lol, with old stuff sometimes you have to compromise, i'm sure it's done in the auto industry. the rope in the cylinder is still widely used because it is soft on the internal components
Excellent information, writing this April 2022. Hayterette 3.5 hp B&S engine not ran since 1973. Now running thanks to this info :) Thanks from across the pond.
I started doing this at 13 years old. I fixed dozens of mowers in our neighborhood... in the 70's. You can take a piece of wood and tap the ears on the starter clutch to get it off, rather than doing the rope thing. Did dozens and never broke an ear.
Great video. I wish my brother and I had known about the nylon rope in the cylinder trick when we were teenagers working on mowers and tillers about, well, 50 years ago! He finally got a special tool that fit the fins on the flywheel, but until then we struggled with long screw drivers and judicious tapping, lol. My interest was rekindled in this as I recently got an old tiller with a B&S that I remembered from my days as a kid repairman and I had forgotten the plug and point gaps (did I mention it was about fifty years ago?) When I worked for a feed store in high school maintaining their pump motors on fertilizer rigs I could set the gaps, including the armature, by eye in the field during emergency repairs I was called out on, lol. I'd check the spark by holding the spark plug wire and rolling the flywheel magnet with a quick twist with my other hand. If it gave my arm a good jolt, I knew I was good on the electrical.
I have been an automobile mechanic for over 25 years, but I am still a small engines novice. I find these UA-cam videos very helpful. When I saw you stuffing that rope into the spark plug hole I really wondered about you, and then out came a pipe wrench! To see that crazy technique work is brilliant. Where in the world did you come up with that one? Great job.
ah fond memories of working on all my cars in the 60s and 70s. Worn out distributor cams, worn out or burnt points, etc. Could do a tune up in just over an hour including points, cap, rotor, condenser, plugs, wires, and voila. Throw in an oil change at the same time and it was fun
Wow you must have had a lot of practice
Great video. That motor was on my dads mower which I pushed all over the place in the late 60's early 70's. I rebuilt it with a couple of buddies when I was 12! Thanks for the memories!
Whoda thunk anyone would need this video, and your other videos on this engine after 18 years. Well, I did! Very succinct and helpful. Thank you for all the videos you made on this engine. They were very helpful for me in rebuilding the carb, and setting the points on my 1965 tiller. It was amazing to discover I could still obtain the part manual and buy the parts for this engine. Now, if can only find a shroud that still has the tabs to hold the Pulley-Starter in place, I'll be good to go. Thanks again for the video!
Awesome video. I've been fighting with my old tiller for over a week. Followed your video and it would seem that dirty points were my nemesis. Loved the way you calmly and clearly explained every step. Thanks a bunch.
Have NEVER been disappointed in ANY of Donyboy's video's.
Donyboy your vids are the best going around.......great work mate.....very easy to follow and the way you explain things is second to none.......wishing you all the best
this is an antique engine from like 1970 lol. I bought a push mower with an engine like this and it did not run, no spark, had grease on points. cleaned them up and set the valves, run this motor for 5 yrs and gave it to a neighbor and he still has it. These engines were made to last!
big thanks for this video i was ready to scrap my rotorvator as it hasnt been running for 12 months with no spark then i was told about this video by a friend well it took me 20 mins after that it runs fantastic ...........martin ........ england
hey if you haven't already, just put on a electronic magneto, it will bolt up and you won't have to worry about points ever again., im glad briggs made conversion really really easy.
I learned how to set and replace the points and condenser on my '66 Mustang back in the day. Good video.
Good job. One thing that is useful to check is the top crankshaft bearing side play. If there is any this can affect the point gap. I found that when adjusting the points it helps to push and hold the crankshaft firmly in the direction away from the magneto. This makes the point gap more accurate when the engine is running and the compression pushes the crankshaft away from the head. Of course if the top bearing play is too much the engine is pretty well shot anyway.
@phillippace if the points are burnt then they need replacing, often i just sand them with 400 grit emery paper and then there is spark again
@dukesroc01 if you have an older briggs 3.5 hp it is the same. the newer ones do not have points.
As always very detail instructions and techniques! Thanks for sharing your skills!
@seapeddler i would have to see one here because i don't work on them too often and they are all different, if i get one in I'll make a video
@Mennitti4Congress-It may be a little late, but if you pull the cord, the blades spin but you feel no resistance, I think it may be something internal. When you pull the cord it causes the flywheel to turn which is connected to your upper crankshaft. The blade is at the other end of your crankshaft. If everything is turning freely with no resistance (e.g. no compression) either rod/piston are shot, or your exhaust valve is stuck open. It could also be your head gasket, but that and exhaust valve would have nothing to do with hitting a stump.
cheers for the vid dony saved a lot of head scratching,regards from the u.k.
Looks so easy when expert is doing the adjusting and everything with it.
I have a tiller very much like yours. It was given to be by a neighbor, Will start very easy them approx 5 min after dies? Haven't has time to work on it. Tank looks free of rust. haven't checked spark yet but hope to work on it Monday...Thanks, Great video
Great video! It made it easy to get my engine apart
Had no spark - got my engine torn down, the points are opening and closing...
so how do i know if I need to replace the coil or condenser or points or all three?
An excellent video: very clear and concise. Thank you so much
Great vid! Simple, straightforward explanation...thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks for the info Buddy I am working on my 3.5 hp Briggs and Stratton engine
I looked at the points gap, and it is good and clean. my ? is on the wires that come out,( you mentioned using RTV to protect them) were do they lead out to. there are 2 on mine and they are cut. no idea what they connect to. and could not see it on this video.
thanks!
Thanks for your help, you really help me to adjust the gap,thanks again
i found your video as reference because it's been so long since i have done points and condenser work.. i'm working on a 1979 b&s 3.5 hp similar to the 1 you have. i noticed 2 wires in where you connect them on the condenser with the spring holding them but not going anywhere just hanging out, nothing to the magneto.. where on the magneto does 1 wire go?
They also have small straight point files available from most auto parts stores, that will make it very easy to dress the points. I have one that I use almost everyday on things like this, and it help out quite a bit.
Awesome video :)
How much voltage should it be putting out where it connects to the sparkplug?
@donyboy73 my engine is on a antique golf cart
and it has not ran for over 10 years so it needs alot of work but ill try replaceing the wire thanks :)
and maybe check the points.
Nice video on this old tiller, I have one close to yours with the same issue and this should help me out alot. What about the belts on this for the forward and reverse? I can't get mine to work? Have you done a video on something like that yet?
I found a feeler gauge and I just took the crank off and turned the engine until the timing notches lined up (TDC) then put the casing back on and took the OHV cover off and used the .004 feeler gauge on both the exhaust and carburetor valves and made sure they are snug but not too tight. Is it normal to crank the engine and feel wind come out of the carburetor on the air filter side?
Nice video and it helped out as I am setting the points on an identical rototiller. By chance have you been able to find tines for that tiller?
Question - I bought a rototiller with a similar engine (1973 Bolens, Model 2135-02, B&S 3.5 HP engine # 92902-131601). I was able to follow your great carb cleaning video of this engine and the tiller now starts easily on the first pull and runs great. However after about 5-10 minutes once the engine gets hot it shuts off & and am unable to get it started again until it cools down. I've done a lot of research & there are a lot of things I can try changing .. I'm hoping to narrow it down, my next step is going to be to try & check for spark once its hot and maybe replace the ignition coil? Do you have any thoughts or advice?
Any idea of the belt routing underneath the engine? I’ve acquired an old JCPenney with the 3.5 BS and it has one belt but the other is gone and I can’t find ANY info on it. I’m guessing it’s late 70’s. Model 3012B.
It won't start at all. It used to have a On/Off switch on the steering wheel and we disconnected that, but we have not taken the wires off yet. I'm not sure if that is taking power from the spark plug or not. Also, when i crank it, gas blows out as a mist from the carburetor. And it looks like the bowl's o-ring gasket is getting soaked. The float is fine needle and seat are fine. I am not sure but I see a tiny ball bearing it looks like on the side of the center shaft in the bowl. Is that right?
Hi,i have a very old david Bradley tiller with the same motor.Ive cleaned the points and set the gap to 20 thousandths..I also rebuilt the carburetor.It has terrible kick back to it.It has to be the points plunger?right.Can I switch this motor over to electronic ignition?I have a coil that will fit.I love using the old points setup but it seems to me that the points are firing way to early and causing the kickback.
Hey, I say your video. I have a briggs and stratton 5HP just like that one that is on a rotary tiller. I need to replace the condenser. I was told I can do away with the points system simply by purchasing 394970
(magnetron upgrade kit). I was told you have to send the flywheel to b&S for repolirization of the magnets, is this true??? Also I noticed the ignition coil has 2 wires running out of it from underneath. I can't seem to find the same exact ignition coil with 2 wires running out from it
Hey Donyboy, I have the exact motor on an old tiller like the video showed. How does the belt fit on though to drive the tiller?
donyboy73 I love your videos. I have a Spiegel tiller that is very similar to the one you have in thepoints video. What I am asking is do you have any idea what size drive belt it takes. I have no manuel to go by and its mext to impossible to measure it. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
wonderful video thanks for sharing your knowledge i have the same tiller
do you know the spark plug gap for that engine thanks again.
.030
hey donyboy I recently did some work on a Briggs and Stratton 3.65hp lawn mower similar to the one you changed diaphragm on but I did the disassembly wrong and cannot get the springs back on perfectly as they do not have any tension even though they are in the right position I think it have to do with the plastic piece attached to the magneto coil and even though the engine started easily it revs in pulses and sounds like it lacks power I also removed coil etc I think this is the problem help.
That worked! Fired up on the third pull. Where do I send the consultant fee?
I have an older (81) up draft carb on an 8HP Briggs. When I took off the point cover all was corroded inside. I installed new points and attempted to set the points. As I rotated the engine, it seemed to me that the points did not move and impossible to set the points. In view of the fact that there was much corrosion in that area could the plunger that opens and closes the points is corroded and won't move?
@1717BY I think you're right. I just bought a new points and condenser coil for my 3.5 hp Briggs that I had electronic ignition on, and before I had to pull the rope harder before it would spark.
Thank you for posting this! It's exactly what I needed for my new (ancient) Wolf Garten rough cut and will make it viable to keep the old girl going!
I have the points in shortcircuit (tested with tester) also when they are separeted. What it could be? The coil has a R about 2,76 kohm with ground wire attached so it isn't
Sorry for not sounding that smart now but as i am working on small engines i have never come across a system that has the points open like that and closes around tdc....usually they are closed and opens around tdc right?Or am i way too much tired right now?
Thank you..i have said it before and say it again,you make really really great videos and also cares about your subscribers.Not many people out there that do that so thanks once again
Hey donyboy73 I have a few questions. I have a Tecumseh 6.0 HP go cart. It will not start. My step-dad said to check the carburetor and using your videos, I cleaned it and rebuilt it. When I try to start the engine, sometimes it backfires and yanks the cord out of my hand, and also it sprays gas out of the air filter side. I checked the spark plug and it didn't have gas on it and didn't even have the smell of gas. The spark plug is getting fire though. What should I do?
i just gut a aluminum mower i think a Jacobsen deck with identical engine what year is your engine mine says 59 on pull cord cover i am starting to think the cover is older cause original engine paint was wight like yours and pull cord shroud was metallic blue i think the points were abandoned and changed to electronic coil its to full of dirt to tell it dose run but needs carb clean.
...and if so, what would be a good way to loosen it? I have just put on some penetrating oil and am letting it soak in. Any ideas?
if it's OHV try adjusting the valves and check the flywheel key to make sure it's not sheared
What engine model is this, I have the same one and need some gaskets and parts for it
Was this filmed with one of those camcorders you would hold on your shoulder?
@hzaidi3 i had a problem, and i just got an "all-in-one" magneto. the only thing is, is that you need a different kind of flywheel.
I have a similar model. The blades were stopping, so I took it apart and found it to be unbelievably filthy inside. So now that it's clean, I cant remember where everything goes. Any idea where to get a diagram of the belt assembly? I haven't had much luck.
hi is a .010 points gap good enough i used the ignition gap setting on my feeler gauge the brass one cause my points where at.004 lol and full of oil but still working?
Donyboy you are bad ass BTW keep the vids coming I am loving them.
THANK YOU! this is exacally the video i was looking for! i could not even figure out how to get they flywheel off! now i have a motor to build my rough cut mower for my atv! btw,mine is a horizontal engine 3 hp,do you think it would run a 20 inch blade for cutting 6 ft weeds? they would be dryed out
what would the head bolt torque spec be for this model engine ?
@donyboy73 there is no conversion kit, just litterally take a electronic magneto from say a 95' or 99' or a brand new one, it will fit right on there, as long as its from another 3.5hp engine or now called the 300 series or the 450 series or 4hp, they are all the same. cause i was able to put my 3.5hp 1991 magneto which is electronic on a 1970s 3hp engine, and i belive it has to be from the same size of engine, but its really easy, just cut the points wire, unbolt magneto, bolt on electro. magn.
@Evinrudeoutboard1 SOMETIMES I SAND THE POINTS WITH A 600 GRIT EMERY SANDPAPER
Great explanation👍
It is OHV and it is turning the crank so I don't think the fly wheel key is sheared. I looked up how to adjust the OHV and it said to use a .004 inch feeler gauge and adjust them to that. I just used a sheet of paper and used that for measurement.
Do u have a pic of the throttle setup
I sanded my points and still have no spark. I checked with a volt meter and I show the wire from the coil connected to the tip of the condenser is grounded.. Does this mean a bad coil as I traced the wire and they are not touching the case anywhere AFTER they leave the coil.Points AND condenser tip both show shorted to the case.
RE sanding the points, I have had great luck with a points file. They are around $3.00 for a 2 pack from Amazon, reference below. Much easier that using sand paper.
Great Neck 25342 Ign.Pt./Utility File 2Pc
Tony
Mines fixed now!! thankyou so much! Earnt a subscriber!
I have reservations about putting nylon rope in the engine. The nylon strands are coming off. I put in 3 feet and the flywheel still turns. Why?
Most engines are .020 but do not sand them. make sure there is no grease/oil on the contacts and B&S recommends you drag clean paper through the points to remove any oil. If you sand the points, use fabric and brake cleaner to remove any grit, it will weld the points as you run the motor. be sure to get the flywheel very tight or it will shear the key... set your valves too .06 in .08-.10 ex it should run awesome... Former B&S mechanic
Great info on the 3.5 b&s.
@motorhead45102 can u send me the link to that conversion kit?
I'm looking for new points and condenser for one of these mowers. Can u possibly give me part numbers? Thanks
Thanks for sharing! Great videos! Greetings from Norway!
greetings from canada
donyboy73 Sorry for interupting you but I have a question. I managed to get my engine going (3.5HP briggs on a lawnmower, from 74) and it looked extremely like this engine you got right here. However, when i start it, I am unable to get a good low Idle speed. I am guessing it has something to do with that nut you were twisting on in the end there. I am also unable to give it more gas, because then it just shuts off aswell.
Do you have any video, or anything i can search for on how to get a good low Idle and a good fast RPM when giving more gas? (probably related to that nut on the carb)
Thanks in advance!
(Greetings from another norwegian ;) )
From Norway from Norway, but județ?!?
I usually go 8&10 for strong compression and it allows for wear. I fixed a lot of mowers that had tight valves Exhaust is bad for that.. I drag wet sandpaper through the opening and it files them down real slow. use brake cleaner to remove any grit.
Can you explain how to remove the friction wheel from a Sears Craftsman Rototiller, chain drive , 4-speed?
It's a 5hp Briggs engine.
i know this video is 5 years old but please tell me you cleaned the crud off around the cooling fins etc
@tehstickmen u might want to replace the wire
Great video! I have a 3 hp Briggs motor on a real old Sears Push Mower. I hit a small stump and it stopped the blades cold. It won't start. When I pull the cord the blades turn. It doesn't feel like any additional resistance when I pull the cord. Do you think it is the flywheel key or something else? Thank you.
Sometimes these engines have a failsafe, and won't start when the tiller clutch is engaged.
@donyboy73 That did it! 3 pulls and it was running. Thanks!
I have the same tiller and I need help!!!! Ok so the shaft spins freely after the engine is running then I try to start it again and it still spins freely, then I have to hit the shaft with a mallet to get it locked in place
@1972FordF150 How do you know they don't produce as "hot of a spark or as strong of a spark"? Have you verified this to be sure? My experience with these engines shows that the Magnetron electronic ignition produces a far hotter spark than the points and condensers. The electronic coils are not POS, I've never had a single one go bad. Why waste time fiddling with points if you don't have to?
@outdoorsman310 i think it retards the timing
Good ol pulsa jet carbs! I thought that carb spring was in the wrong spot! The cast iron flywheels usually popped off pretty easy. Sometimes it is tough to get those carbs to accelerate real well without raising the idle speed some....I always thought the simpler vacu jet carbs ran better!
I have a rototiller very similar to this, could be the same engine in fact just mounted in reverse. My problem is that I have everything taken off but the plunger doesn't move when I turn the engine over. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to fix this?
what engine model is this, i have the same one but its not with me right now, and i need to do some research
a stuck valve, not sure if it would affect compression if the intake valve was stuck closed
i have the same thing but its a 6hp and i get a shock from the sparkplug wire what should i do???
hey don do the engines in general have a flywheel key?
yes
thnx your a real um shaft life saver lol?
Hi donyboy73. I've got 50 years old Briggs & Stratton 3.5hp lawn mower wich runs nicely. What do you think, could it run another 50 years?
MAYBE LOL
Let's hope so. At least i'm gonna take good care of it. But if it goes wrong some day, maybe i fly with it in Canada and ask you to fix it, because you are absolutely brilliant with engines.
Well, i actually know one guy near here who also works with small engines, and he is very good with that. But i have watch so many of your videos donyboy, and with pure admiration.
@th19940305 try that if it doesn't work replace the coil
Good job as usual!
thanks John
Can somebody give me some advise here. I have a snapper mower with a carb just like this one. It doesnt have points tho.. I checked compression its ok, I checked spark I have a bright blue spark. I pour a little fuel in carb even tho I just rebuilt it with a new diaphram.. But it still wont start.. What else can I check..
i hade a problem with a 5 hp briggs like that (horizontal) we had it on a mini bike and my friend started it and accedentaly droped it on te shroud side and it kept running and busted all the finns off the flywheel and caught on fire and he died. not really. but i put on a new flywheel and put it all back together and it kept shearing keys so we checked the internals and we just about bought a new crankshaft and then we were taking to a guy and we wernt getting that starter clutch on tight enout
lol, with old stuff sometimes you have to compromise, i'm sure it's done in the auto industry. the rope in the cylinder is still widely used because it is soft on the internal components
Does anyone know what model this 3.5 hp Briggs and Stratton engine is?
One goes to the coil, the other is the kill wire, on older engines its on the throttle lever on the carb. It grounds out when you close the throttle.