I purchased a LPH 50 based on Paul's recommendation. Hugh difference in the quality of my painting. I can paint glossy finishes with no orange-peel. It also takes much less time to paint larger pieces. I realized that an air brush is the wrong tool for painting larger pieces. I look forward to using it on my builds, it makes the process more fun, which is the point of the exercise.
What tip size did you buy? I'm considering to buy a LPH50 for priming and painting things like big airplanes in 72nd and 144th scale, small airplanes in 48th and military vehicles in 35th but I'm not sure about the tip size.
@@ae-ae I bought a 1.5 tip and needle. You should also have an airbrush for smaller things and detail painting. After I used it a couple of times I realized what a huge difference having the correct tool makes. Over time I experimented with my technic and was able to refine my results. I build model race cars, and want the finish to be very smooth and shine, and the LPH 50 got me there. It does require a lot of air movement. Thirty years ago I bought a Craftsman 3.5 gallon compressor, and it is more than enough for any hobby painting I do. It also cost much less than a "hobby" specific compressor. There are many choices at a home building store. Paul's videos here are fantastic, and whenever I see someone asking for help with a modeling subject, there is one of Paul's videos which sorts it out. Good luck!
@@michaelchriss3302 I already own brushes for small things. I’m also interested about getting smooth surfaces on all models I build. 1.5mm sounds too much for my application, but for yours it may fit well. Thx for answering
I had the same realisation Michael , nobody ever told me that a little airbrush is not the only option for big projects , I wanted to paint a 1/14 truck a fluro colour and a airbrush was hopeless . But a. 8mm gun shot one perfect even coat in a blink .
I have more experience with HVLP spray equipment than with airbrushes (though I do own a decent Iwata airbrush), so these comparisons and explanations are very helpful. Much appreciated.
Hello! Excellent demonstration! Not having a big compressor I found the HP-G5 to be a very good alternative to an HVLP gun. And you were right: it doesn't require high pressure settings. About 15 psi is what I found out to be optimum for my paint while still having a fan pattern. I have recently painted a 1:8th scale car with it. Thank you sharing your knowledge!
Wow! I hadn't really known about minature spray guns versus an airbrush. I used to airbrush quite a bit but my asthma caused problems, even with a good respirator, so I got away from airbrushing for several years. Now I am retired and have found a respirator that seems to offer protection from VOCs. I hope to get back into doing more spraying. I build railroad models and US armor in various scales. It would appear that most of my planned projects might be better accomplished with a spray gun versus a new airbrush, so I will be looking into that technology. I admire the beautiful thin coats of smooth paint you can jay down. With some practice I think this is the way to go for me. Thanks for the info.
Thank you for explaining the whys and where fors of these paint guns. The good news, I learned something, the bad news I have to spend more $$ - Oh, well its all good.
I just purchased a museum-quality model of the ship I served on in the Navy. The USS John Paul Jones DDG32. It was much pricier than a regular boxed model. I'm finding all of your videos very helpful in choosing the right spray gun. I'm not sure if I should just go with a beginer's Amazon special or pull the trigger on a Iwata RG6 or HVLP. I can see myself doing more models for friends so it is a very hard decision.
I just recieved my brand new LPH80. I think I might return it though, and get the G6 instead. The reason is that the air compressor I havefor the LPH is SO SO noisy, it will wake all the neighbours. It is a husky 3 gallon. I wonder if I can run the G6 on the smaller 2 gallon and quieter tank i have. I just hope that the gun can paint nice backgrounds on my paintings for me.
Hi Paul, for an absolute beginner to airbrushing for wooden basswood structures, can you recommend me an air gun or airbrush? I watched the whole video, and dug up some of the ones you recommended, and they seem quite pricey esp for a beginner like me.
Hi I’m looking to upgrade from a Grex triennium TS3 that has a .5 nozzle and needle to something larger. Would u recommend g6 or lph80 for better coverage. My models/sculpture are max 18” tall hence looking for something that gives me better and wider coverage than my current airbrush. I am getting a very large compressor and will have sufficient CFC. Thx for ur amazing videos and help
Great vid very educational, well explained and very helpful, just one question, to use the guns in the vid how big does your compressor need to be and what size tank on the compresor is needed to operate each of the airbrush guns you dhoewd on the video, thanks.
The G5, G6 and RG3 should work with any descent airbrush compressor ... but everything does work better if you have a tank type. If you want to use an LPH gun ... you should have a tank, and depending on the nozzle ... even a larger hose for optimal performance.
@@scale-model-workshop thanks but I was hoping for a more detailed answer, ie: 3Lt tank with a 3bar compressor, or a 23L tank with a 1/4 hores powered compressor etc, I hope you can answer this quire, as I have an hobby compressor that is a 3bar/45-50psi compressor with a 3Lt tank and I just can't get the coverage when I'm painting a 1/350 kit and I was wondering what I can use on the compressor I have to lay more pain quicker to get a better result. Thanks again for your help.
@@kurk1701a The CFM rating is the determining factor. See what the brush/gun needs and match it with a compressor of at least that rating. A higher CFM rating compressor usually has a tank anyway. If the CFM requirement is met you don't need to worry about PSI or horsepower. Aside from that "can't get enough coverage" is very vague so it's pretty much impossible to help you.
Are there some cheap alternatives?! Yes Iwata is a good company but very expensive for my teeth. Maybe a full size gun putting the flow to minimum?!does this work. I have 100e budget. Thanx.
Mr Paul Budzik, I have a question I was thinking to buy PS290 Procon Boy LWA Trigger type (almost the same as HP CS trigger but without air valve) and Iwata W101 spray gun. Now, which tools mentioned above that could deliver the smoothest finish with minimal overspraying? I personally struggle with these overspraying. Plus, that HVLP spray guns are extremely expensive for me. That is why, I guess I will stick to those two tools I mentioned above. Which one is best? Thanks!
Watching your demonstration of spraying the actual model I find myself surprised as I expected to see when using a spraygun that it didn't look to be any more efficient than using an airbrush for coverage width? Also, looking at your spraygun spray comparison photos, to me it looked like the G5 had the most consistent spray area, is this not the case? Would it not be preferred over the G6 model?
"I expected to see when using a spray gun that it didn't look to be any more efficient than using an airbrush for coverage width" ... What you're not seeing is the VOLUME of material ... which would empty an airbrush cup in to time flat ... plus you're probably thinking 3/4 or full size gun. The only airbrush that I've ever used that can provide the AMOUNT OF MATERIAL to keep the pattern wet, is the now discontinued Iwata HP-BE2. The G6 can handle a little more material and atomize better than the G5. The two patterns are not the same shape. The G5 is more a straight taper while the G6 is wider at a more intermediate distance. It's what the airbrush artists and spray tan people use to get their super even coverage.
Very informative video. Thanks. I do have a question though. The Iwata G6 specifications say the optimal working pressure is 35 to 55 psi. You are using 18 to 25 psi. I must say your results are very good. What assumptions do you think Iwata made to suggest a pressure setting twice what you are using? Has it to do with paint viscosity?
There are a number of interdependent factors that are at play. For instance, many of the most renowned tee shirt artists routinely use 60 lbs with their Iwata Eclipse and Liquitex acrlyic. You don't want to become a prisoner of arbitrary numbers. The G6 is really an airbrush in a gun form, so for us modelers, you want to look at it from that perspective.
@@scale-model-workshop Thanks so much! Indeed, the proof is in the results and after several days of frustration I finally got a great finish with the G6. Following your technique, I lowered the pressure, built up the paint in thin layers and used short bursts of the trigger to fill in where needed and voila!
The numbers are molded into the kit. The casting part line was created with lacquer primer. I explained it on my web page: paulbudzik.com/tools-techniques/Sherman%20Construction/sherman-construction-page4.html , figures 14 - 21.
Thanks for your highly professional presentations - much appreciated. I have a question about pressure regulators. I have a compressor which I don't think has any tank at all, and it is 1.5hp, with a maximum PSI rating of 100. It has no pressure regulation or setting. If I wanted to try the LPH80 (with an external regulator, to maintain 13psi), do I need to be concerned with the pressure DIFFERENTIAL between the input and output of the regulator? I.e - do regulators have a maximum differential specification? I know that DURING spraying, the input to the regulator will be much lower than 100psi, but when the gun is not flowing air, will the pressure on the input to the regulator build to the compressor's max, or will the regulator bleed air continuously, maintaining the set pressure on BOTH the output AND input to the regulator?
Greg, Regulators do not bleed air. Also, you are not going to be able to use an LPH 80 with a non tank type setup ... you need a large continuous volume of air. Volume is very different than pressure.
@@scale-model-workshop thanks, but I'm confused. How can a regulator regulate, if it can't redirect air to the atmosphere? Also, if my compressor can flow 1.8CFM at 13psi, why is a tank required? Is it because of the "pulsing" air without a tank?
You do great videos but even if you weren't, your voice is unbeatable. It's always pleasure to watch/listen!
Thank you!
I purchased a LPH 50 based on Paul's recommendation. Hugh difference in the quality of my painting. I can paint glossy finishes with no orange-peel. It also takes much less time to paint larger pieces. I realized that an air brush is the wrong tool for painting larger pieces. I look forward to using it on my builds, it makes the process more fun, which is the point of the exercise.
What tip size did you buy? I'm considering to buy a LPH50 for priming and painting things like big airplanes in 72nd and 144th scale, small airplanes in 48th and military vehicles in 35th but I'm not sure about the tip size.
@@ae-ae I bought a 1.5 tip and needle. You should also have an airbrush for smaller things and detail painting. After I used it a couple of times I realized what a huge difference having the correct tool makes. Over time I experimented with my technic and was able to refine my results. I build model race cars, and want the finish to be very smooth and shine, and the LPH 50 got me there. It does require a lot of air movement. Thirty years ago I bought a Craftsman 3.5 gallon compressor, and it is more than enough for any hobby painting I do. It also cost much less than a "hobby" specific compressor. There are many choices at a home building store. Paul's videos here are fantastic, and whenever I see someone asking for help with a modeling subject, there is one of Paul's videos which sorts it out. Good luck!
@@michaelchriss3302 I already own brushes for small things. I’m also interested about getting smooth surfaces on all models I build. 1.5mm sounds too much for my application, but for yours it may fit well. Thx for answering
I had the same realisation Michael , nobody ever told me that a little airbrush is not the only option for big projects , I wanted to paint a 1/14 truck a fluro colour and a airbrush was hopeless . But a. 8mm gun shot one perfect even coat in a blink .
Your decades of experience shine brightly in your presentations. Thank you for making the videos.
I have more experience with HVLP spray equipment than with airbrushes (though I do own a decent Iwata airbrush), so these comparisons and explanations are very helpful. Much appreciated.
Thanks for such a detailed and in depth review! “Less than the weight of a staple with many modelers.” @2:17 🤣👍🏼 Thanks again!
Hello!
Excellent demonstration!
Not having a big compressor I found the HP-G5 to be a very good alternative to an HVLP gun.
And you were right: it doesn't require high pressure settings. About 15 psi is what I found out to be optimum for my paint while still having a fan pattern. I have recently painted a 1:8th scale car with it.
Thank you sharing your knowledge!
That G-5 is a beautifully done little gun. A perfect example of precision.
A master class, as usual.
Wow! I hadn't really known about minature spray guns versus an airbrush. I used to airbrush quite a bit but my asthma caused problems, even with a good respirator, so I got away from airbrushing for several years. Now I am retired and have found a respirator that seems to offer protection from VOCs. I hope to get back into doing more spraying. I build railroad models and US armor in various scales. It would appear that most of my planned projects might be better accomplished with a spray gun versus a new airbrush, so I will be looking into that technology. I admire the beautiful thin coats of smooth paint you can jay down. With some practice I think this is the way to go for me. Thanks for the info.
Thanks for doing this Paul. It’s exactly the video I hoped you would do, a great supplement to your miniature spray gun series.
Thank you for explaining the whys and where fors of these paint guns. The good news, I learned something, the bad news I have to spend more $$ - Oh, well its all good.
@@hl1796 Thank You for your comment.
Nice video, Paul! You have a knack for making the complex simple!
Thanks Paul. Excellent video 👍 George in uk
Brilliant job. I learned a lot. Thank you!
Thank you for this video, very informative and extremely well presented.
Great video! Now I think I know what I want to give myself for Christmas. 😁
Fascinating, ty.
Thanks for the helpful information, now imfinally know the difference between the gunntypes
Your voice would be fantastic for asmr beside your masterful modelling skills
Thank you, Doc. Happy Thanksgiving
Thank you Rick, Happy Thanksgiving to you as well.
I just purchased a museum-quality model of the ship I served on in the Navy. The USS John Paul Jones DDG32. It was much pricier than a regular boxed model. I'm finding all of your videos very helpful in choosing the right spray gun. I'm not sure if I should just go with a beginer's Amazon special or pull the trigger on a Iwata RG6 or HVLP. I can see myself doing more models for friends so it is a very hard decision.
Great video. Are you going to be doing another video on the A26 Invader?
I have a minture spray gun its in a plastic housing i don't know how to take the needle out of it to clean it without taking the whole thing apart
I just recieved my brand new LPH80. I think I might return it though, and get the G6 instead. The reason is that the air compressor I havefor the LPH is SO SO noisy, it will wake all the neighbours. It is a husky 3 gallon. I wonder if I can run the G6 on the smaller 2 gallon and quieter tank i have. I just hope that the gun can paint nice backgrounds on my paintings for me.
A link on the description on your website would be nice.
Hi Paul, for an absolute beginner to airbrushing for wooden basswood structures, can you recommend me an air gun or airbrush? I watched the whole video, and dug up some of the ones you recommended, and they seem quite pricey esp for a beginner like me.
What size compressor air line cfm needed for the Iwata G6?
Great video. What is the black air gun/nozzle you are using to clean off the work before painting?
I don't know what they are called, but I bought them from Grainger here in the US.
Hi what would be the best model for clear coating models 6inches tall?
Hi I’m looking to upgrade from a Grex triennium TS3 that has a .5 nozzle and needle to something larger. Would u recommend g6 or lph80 for better coverage. My models/sculpture are max 18” tall hence looking for something that gives me better and wider coverage than my current airbrush. I am getting a very large compressor and will have sufficient CFC. Thx for ur amazing videos and help
Great vid very educational, well explained and very helpful, just one question, to use the guns in the vid how big does your compressor need to be and what size tank on the compresor is needed to operate each of the airbrush guns you dhoewd on the video, thanks.
The G5, G6 and RG3 should work with any descent airbrush compressor ... but everything does work better if you have a tank type. If you want to use an LPH gun ... you should have a tank, and depending on the nozzle ... even a larger hose for optimal performance.
@@scale-model-workshop thanks but I was hoping for a more detailed answer, ie: 3Lt tank with a 3bar compressor, or a 23L tank with a 1/4 hores powered compressor etc, I hope you can answer this quire, as I have an hobby compressor that is a 3bar/45-50psi compressor with a 3Lt tank and I just can't get the coverage when I'm painting a 1/350 kit and I was wondering what I can use on the compressor I have to lay more pain quicker to get a better result. Thanks again for your help.
@@kurk1701a The CFM rating is the determining factor. See what the brush/gun needs and match it with a compressor of at least that rating. A higher CFM rating compressor usually has a tank anyway. If the CFM requirement is met you don't need to worry about PSI or horsepower. Aside from that "can't get enough coverage" is very vague so it's pretty much impossible to help you.
@@johnbarnicoat9423
Thank you for all your help it's very much appreciated thank you.
Are there some cheap alternatives?! Yes Iwata is a good company but very expensive for my teeth. Maybe a full size gun putting the flow to minimum?!does this work. I have 100e budget. Thanx.
Mr Paul Budzik, I have a question
I was thinking to buy PS290 Procon Boy LWA Trigger type (almost the same as HP CS trigger but without air valve) and Iwata W101 spray gun. Now, which tools mentioned above that could deliver the smoothest finish with minimal overspraying? I personally struggle with these overspraying. Plus, that HVLP spray guns are extremely expensive for me. That is why, I guess I will stick to those two tools I mentioned above. Which one is best? Thanks!
Watching your demonstration of spraying the actual model I find myself surprised as I expected to see when using a spraygun that it didn't look to be any more efficient than using an airbrush for coverage width? Also, looking at your spraygun spray comparison photos, to me it looked like the G5 had the most consistent spray area, is this not the case? Would it not be preferred over the G6 model?
"I expected to see when using a spray gun that it didn't look to be any more efficient than using an airbrush for coverage width" ... What you're not seeing is the VOLUME of material ... which would empty an airbrush cup in to time flat ... plus you're probably thinking 3/4 or full size gun. The only airbrush that I've ever used that can provide the AMOUNT OF MATERIAL to keep the pattern wet, is the now discontinued Iwata HP-BE2. The G6 can handle a little more material and atomize better than the G5. The two patterns are not the same shape. The G5 is more a straight taper while the G6 is wider at a more intermediate distance. It's what the airbrush artists and spray tan people use to get their super even coverage.
Very informative video. Thanks. I do have a question though. The Iwata G6 specifications say the optimal working pressure is 35 to 55 psi. You are using 18 to 25 psi. I must say your results are very good. What assumptions do you think Iwata made to suggest a pressure setting twice what you are using? Has it to do with paint viscosity?
There are a number of interdependent factors that are at play. For instance, many of the most renowned tee shirt artists routinely use 60 lbs with their Iwata Eclipse and Liquitex acrlyic. You don't want to become a prisoner of arbitrary numbers. The G6 is really an airbrush in a gun form, so for us modelers, you want to look at it from that perspective.
@@scale-model-workshop Thanks so much! Indeed, the proof is in the results and after several days of frustration I finally got a great finish with the G6. Following your technique, I lowered the pressure, built up the paint in thin layers and used short bursts of the trigger to fill in where needed and voila!
At the end those numbers and demarcation are part of the tank or the kit itself?
The numbers are molded into the kit. The casting part line was created with lacquer primer. I explained it on my web page: paulbudzik.com/tools-techniques/Sherman%20Construction/sherman-construction-page4.html , figures 14 - 21.
Hello, can I run this gun on my Iwata Studio Series SmartJet compressor? It its CFM rating is under 1....
Thanks for your highly professional presentations - much appreciated.
I have a question about pressure regulators. I have a compressor which I don't think has any tank at all, and it is 1.5hp, with a maximum PSI rating of 100. It has no pressure regulation or setting. If I wanted to try the LPH80 (with an external regulator, to maintain 13psi), do I need to be concerned with the pressure DIFFERENTIAL between the input and output of the regulator? I.e - do regulators have a maximum differential specification? I know that DURING spraying, the input to the regulator will be much lower than 100psi, but when the gun is not flowing air, will the pressure on the input to the regulator build to the compressor's max, or will the regulator bleed air continuously, maintaining the set pressure on BOTH the output AND input to the regulator?
Greg, Regulators do not bleed air. Also, you are not going to be able to use an LPH 80 with a non tank type setup ... you need a large continuous volume of air. Volume is very different than pressure.
@@scale-model-workshop thanks, but I'm confused. How can a regulator regulate, if it can't redirect air to the atmosphere? Also, if my compressor can flow 1.8CFM at 13psi, why is a tank required? Is it because of the "pulsing" air without a tank?
Did I hear right, the paint used was Tamiya X-32 - isn't that titanium silver?
Yes, I did say the wrong color and didn't catch it until I uploaded it. Should have been X62. I've added the correction to description. Thank you