This video explains the process of decal application on scale models. Scale Model Workshop website: scale-model-workshop.com/ Contact: scale-model-workshop.com/lts4...
Hi Paul, I remember going with my dearly beloved grandpa to the “luchtvaart hobby shop” aviation megastore nowadays (after having gone to the Aviodrome, then still at Schiphol) and he got me one of your books (after me trawling the shop for hours). it was a great help. These videos are even better. We always used to go to museums once per year.
4:57 Excellent tip on only cutting the film and not the paper when trimming. It may take more prep work/concentration when trimming, but the results are worth it. Thanks Paul.
Honestly, I thought I knew a thing or two about modelling until I met you. Absolutely stunning content and knowledge. Thank you SO much for sharing it with the world. If only I had UA-cam and the internet as a kid!
1st rule of life: When you think you know something, the reality is that you know nothing. The internet may not have been around when we were kids, but there was no shortage of books and magazines on modelling. Most of the information in those sources was better than anything I've ever seen on UA-cam. As a species, our collective standards seem to have taken a huge dump. The more easily available information is to get, the cheaper it becomes, and I don't mean that in a good way. There's so much false information on UA-cam alone that it boggles the mind.
Just applied my first ever decals following your advice, not using a gloss coat beforehand. I'm very happy with the results. It seems to me that the consensus among 99 percent of modellers is that not using a gloss coat is absolute heresy
Great vid. Thanks. Decals are always kind of nerve racking when applying. So easy to damage and mess up. Good tips. And like every thing else....practice practice practice.
Great video.... I have no problem getting the decals onto the model, its moving them into position that causes me the most grief and that's where I'll rip them. I'm obviously not applying enough Micro Set, I've tried using cocktail sticks but they often scratch the paint.
Hi Paul, awesome tutorial on a process that many neglect. I was hoping you may have covered in slightly more detail about applying decals to clear plastic such as canopies and windows. Does the clear plastic need some form of clear coat first to give the decal better adhesion?
Thank you for sharing techniques. I have a question though : After applying the gloss varnish coat on a surface, where decals have been applied, do you recommend to reduce the thickness difference, where the decals have been applied by sanding the surface ?
Indeed, you are a master model builder. I will be customizing a few models soon, and would cherish your expertise. The models in question are die cast metal aircraft that already have a finished layer of clear coat. I will just simply be adding decals to change the livery. A couple of models have an underlying layer of paint, while a separate aircraft is polished zinc, however, they are all finished with a factory clear coat. My question to you is once I have taken the necessary steps to place my decals in their appropriate position, can I then clear coat the decals to further protect them without compromising the existing clear coat underneath? If yes, what is your recommendation for doing so, and what product would you use? I appreciate any advice you can offer, as these are expensive models for me, and are quite difficult to replace. Thank you kindly. Cheers
Thank you Red, It's probably a good idea to clear coat over the decals to prevent them from yellowing. With that in mind you will want to use some sort of acrylic that you would either thin with alcohol or water. The bugger is getting it to level out spraying it over an already high gloss surface. Typically you would bust the gloss finish before applying any further coating. But I'm sure you don't want to ruin the stock finish. Your best bet is to test a few clear coats on some diecast that you don't care about and see what works.
Great video with great tips I will have to add to my arsenal - as decaling has always been a nemesis of mine. Question: the hot water bath you are using seems to be a piece of medical/dental equipment, but there is no brand name visible. Can you provide information as to a manufacturer or other options. Thanks for all the great videos - I watch them repeatedly.
I usually get excellent results from microscale's micro-sol, until I tried using it on a large surface decal. I gave it some time for the wrinkles to fade but some of those hadn't - despite all the pricking, reapplying and several hours of waiting, only to end up having tighter wrinkles. Does this have anything to do with decal compatibility, excess solution or the prior paint job?
Probably more the decal. I usually put down a relatively light coat of Micro-Sol at first after I've pressed the decal down with the warm towel. I watch how it reacts with the decal before I put on any more. Sometimes it will just softly wrinkle and then settle down. Then when it gets a little firmer, I'll do the warm towel again and another light coat of Micro-Sol. As it settles in over the paint and really sticks down, you can then go over it with more Micro-Sol ... you just want to avoid it puddling. Sometimes you need to do it in stages, watching for how the solvent solution reacts with a particular decal. One thing I don't do is let the decal dry out like I see many modelers do. They put the decal down, wait till it drys out and then try and soften it ... totally counterproductive because you have probably already trapped a lot of air under the decal and since the edges are stuck down, it has no place to go.
I notice a lot of questions about the water bath and not many answers.. save your money and buy a cheap paraffin wax warmer off amazon. Not the intended purpose but they have nice small tubs, simple settings, small footprint, and waaaaaaayyyyyy cheaper than restaurant or medical grade equipment. 20 bucks on amazon.. OR, get a cheap mug warming plate. Also nice and small, even cheaper, and you can also get usb ones to just plug into your phone charger or battery pack.
Hi, Paul, how do you deal with decals that are too thick? Tamiya's decals are beautifully printed but they are so thick and once applied they stand out too much on the surface. Is there anything to cope with this other than spending more money on a 3rd-party set of decals? Thanks.
Hey Paul, I've searched for your hot water vase/bath and have not been able to find one other than the very expensive lab versions. Where did you get yours and does it have a brand name, model or part number I can search for? Thanks and keep up the great videos.
I'm using an electric mug warmer that has an option to keep the water at around 40°C. They are very cheap and there are an infinity of models available online.
The only hot water baths that I'm familiar with are supplied for dental use. They may have other applications, but I think you'll have to look at dental supply outlests.
@@scale-model-workshop I found them they are quite expensive I will get one on eBay somehow Also all the decals solvents that you put over those decals Is it gonna matter with a high gloss clear
Hi Paul, I remember going with my dearly beloved grandpa to the “luchtvaart hobby shop” aviation megastore nowadays (after having gone to the Aviodrome, then still at Schiphol) and he got me one of your books (after me trawling the shop for hours). it was a great help. These videos are even better. We always used to go to museums once per year.
4:57 Excellent tip on only cutting the film and not the paper when trimming. It may take more prep work/concentration when trimming, but the results are worth it. Thanks Paul.
Great stuff! Clear, concise, instructions. Excellent filming technique, and no annoying background music.
Thanks John!
Honestly, I thought I knew a thing or two about modelling until I met you. Absolutely stunning content and knowledge. Thank you SO much for sharing it with the world. If only I had UA-cam and the internet as a kid!
1st rule of life: When you think you know something, the reality is that you know nothing. The internet may not have been around when we were kids, but there was no shortage of books and magazines on modelling. Most of the information in those sources was better than anything I've ever seen on UA-cam. As a species, our collective standards seem to have taken a huge dump. The more easily available information is to get, the cheaper it becomes, and I don't mean that in a good way. There's so much false information on UA-cam alone that it boggles the mind.
Such an important video on this sometimes overlooked stage of the modelling process, thanks again Paul.
You knowledge about the modeling subject is by far the BEST on UA-cam... Thank you SO MUCH for sharing this with the planet!!!!
Just applied my first ever decals following your advice, not using a gloss coat beforehand. I'm very happy with the results. It seems to me that the consensus among 99 percent of modellers is that not using a gloss coat is absolute heresy
Great stuff guy. I haven't been on here for a while. Glad to see one of your very informative videos again..
Great vid. Thanks. Decals are always kind of nerve racking when applying. So easy to damage and mess up. Good tips. And like every thing else....practice practice practice.
I am so over gloss undercoat to decals, it causes many more issues than it solves. Great video!
Great video.... I have no problem getting the decals onto the model, its moving them into position that causes me the most grief and that's where I'll rip them. I'm obviously not applying enough Micro Set, I've tried using cocktail sticks but they often scratch the paint.
You've become my favorite youtuber
You sir have a great voice for asmr
Thank You
Hi Paul, awesome tutorial on a process that many neglect. I was hoping you may have covered in slightly more detail about applying decals to clear plastic such as canopies and windows. Does the clear plastic need some form of clear coat first to give the decal better adhesion?
Thank you for sharing techniques. I have a question though : After applying the gloss varnish coat on a surface, where decals have been applied, do you recommend to reduce the thickness difference, where the decals have been applied by sanding the surface ?
Indeed, you are a master model builder. I will be customizing a few models soon, and would cherish your expertise. The models in question are die cast metal aircraft that already have a finished layer of clear coat. I will just simply be adding decals to change the livery. A couple of models have an underlying layer of paint, while a separate aircraft is polished zinc, however, they are all finished with a factory clear coat. My question to you is once I have taken the necessary steps to place my decals in their appropriate position, can I then clear coat the decals to further protect them without compromising the existing clear coat underneath? If yes, what is your recommendation for doing so, and what product would you use? I appreciate any advice you can offer, as these are expensive models for me, and are quite difficult to replace. Thank you kindly. Cheers
Thank you Red, It's probably a good idea to clear coat over the decals to prevent them from yellowing. With that in mind you will want to use some sort of acrylic that you would either thin with alcohol or water. The bugger is getting it to level out spraying it over an already high gloss surface. Typically you would bust the gloss finish before applying any further coating. But I'm sure you don't want to ruin the stock finish. Your best bet is to test a few clear coats on some diecast that you don't care about and see what works.
Great video with great tips I will have to add to my arsenal - as decaling has always been a nemesis of mine. Question: the hot water bath you are using seems to be a piece of medical/dental equipment, but there is no brand name visible. Can you provide information as to a manufacturer or other options. Thanks for all the great videos - I watch them repeatedly.
Found a similar unit under "Dental Thermal Bath" so I will wait for a good deal to come along. Thanks.
Fantastic video, whats the name of the machine used for warming the water ?
2:36 Yeah, I've tried, but weathering on the modeller seems unavoidable...
Hi Paul, Just wondering what your techinque is for applying decals to tyres.
can you produce a video about creating DIY decals?
I usually get excellent results from microscale's micro-sol, until I tried using it on a large surface decal. I gave it some time for the wrinkles to fade but some of those hadn't - despite all the pricking, reapplying and several hours of waiting, only to end up having tighter wrinkles. Does this have anything to do with decal compatibility, excess solution or the prior paint job?
Probably more the decal. I usually put down a relatively light coat of Micro-Sol at first after I've pressed the decal down with the warm towel. I watch how it reacts with the decal before I put on any more. Sometimes it will just softly wrinkle and then settle down. Then when it gets a little firmer, I'll do the warm towel again and another light coat of Micro-Sol. As it settles in over the paint and really sticks down, you can then go over it with more Micro-Sol ... you just want to avoid it puddling. Sometimes you need to do it in stages, watching for how the solvent solution reacts with a particular decal. One thing I don't do is let the decal dry out like I see many modelers do. They put the decal down, wait till it drys out and then try and soften it ... totally counterproductive because you have probably already trapped a lot of air under the decal and since the edges are stuck down, it has no place to go.
Scale Model Workshop
Thanks for the reply. I appreciate it!!
And great video, by the way. 👍
Where can one find that temperature controlled tube for the water? I’ve searched but no luck finding it
restuarant supply stores they have several different sized warming tubs if you have a business license can buy at wholesale price
I notice a lot of questions about the water bath and not many answers.. save your money and buy a cheap paraffin wax warmer off amazon. Not the intended purpose but they have nice small tubs, simple settings, small footprint, and waaaaaaayyyyyy cheaper than restaurant or medical grade equipment. 20 bucks on amazon..
OR, get a cheap mug warming plate. Also nice and small, even cheaper, and you can also get usb ones to just plug into your phone charger or battery pack.
Hi, Paul, how do you deal with decals that are too thick? Tamiya's decals are beautifully printed but they are so thick and once applied they stand out too much on the surface. Is there anything to cope with this other than spending more money on a 3rd-party set of decals? Thanks.
Hey Paul, I've searched for your hot water vase/bath and have not been able to find one other than the very expensive lab versions. Where did you get yours and does it have a brand name, model or part number I can search for? Thanks and keep up the great videos.
I'm using an electric mug warmer that has an option to keep the water at around 40°C. They are very cheap and there are an infinity of models available online.
And here I was thinking all I needed was water. Do beginner model decals have some chemicals pre-applied or something?
We pronounce it the same
Exactly, fuck knows where Americans get their information from about the UK.
I was the name brand and how can I find a hot water bath like you have
The only hot water baths that I'm familiar with are supplied for dental use. They may have other applications, but I think you'll have to look at dental supply outlests.
@@scale-model-workshop I found them they are quite expensive I will get one on eBay somehow Also all the decals solvents that you put over those decals Is it gonna matter with a high gloss clear
Do they really call them decals? Lol
No we don't.