Your skill is fantastic and educational at the same time. As a returning model maker after nearly 40 years, the techniques that you demonstrate are really helpful for me to learn new ways and brush up on old methods of attaining the results I desire but also authenticity. Thanks for taking the time and effort to help young and old alike, keep the videos coming please.
I was getting worried panel lining would take years, but if done in the paint it seems quick and with better results! I love the idea of underpainting the panel line colour and having it show up when you scribe!
Paul, I want to thank you for re-kindling my interest in scale modeling! I love how you solve problems and your overall approach to all things related to the hobby. You're lessons on scribing panel lines and details have been especially helpful. I now use those techniques on everything that has soft details. I've even enjoyed taking old 1/35th scale Tamiya figures and scribing in sharper details. It's amazing to bring older models to life with crisp detail. Thank you for sharing your wisdom!!!
@@scale-model-workshop I'm sorry, I'm not that D Hill. Thank you again for all your great videos! I'm so happy to see your techniques. I've been a great fan since seeing your work in FineScale Modeler magazine.
Just getting into scribing, I have watched a few other videos, bought specialized tools... your tutorial shows that its as much about the tool as it is the material. I realized using a special scribing tool would have made lines way too big for my 1/72 jets. Back to the dental picks I bought 10 years ago! This is the best scribing video as you explain what is happening inside the material, not just scratching a line in something. Thanks!
I found this very interesting. I'm going to try all methods of panel line enhancement to see the results I get. I'm sure there will be many mistakes but it's live and learn. I made many mistakes in the Marine Corps and I lived through it, these mistakes will on!y mean to start over. Again, thank you for the information.
So glad I followed up on this video after your Griffon swap videos. I am putting together a Tamiya Mk V and an Airfix VXII to make a Seafire Mk III. This video is fantastic to review :)
I'm so glad I found u again Paul! I wish I could show you specialized Japanese scribers called "BMC" sizes run .075mm -3mm in .025mm increments and made from tungsten and leave a square bottom! They are originally made for Mech models, but I bet they would be amazing for aircraft models! Thanks for all u share Paul. If you can even see my profile picture the scribes are the scribers I was referring 2!
G’day Paul, I’ve got to thank you for your excellent videos and much more for your outstanding modelling results. That PAA Clipper - scratch built! - is simply breathtaking. I’m way too old now to aspire to scratch building, one of the, ironic, reasons being I smashed up my right wrist in an Air Force accident. This doesn’t allow me to do really intricate work, yet I can still knock out a passable plastic kit plane. Because I’ve spent a lot of time up close with many different aircraft types, one of my goals is to make them look as ‘authentic’ as possible and a video like this is extremely valuable to me. From a distance people don’t see the scratches, stains, painting mistakes, dust and the effects of the weather. I do, of course, try to tone this down in smaller kits otherwise ‘real weathering’ would become way too obvious. Although I’ll never be in your league, I’ve subscribed and I’m now going through your films for more valuable tips. Thank you very much. Cheers, BH
I've scribed many Revell/ Monogram kits. I once thought it was a daunting task, but found out that I was wrong. For me, I have used Dump tape as guides and a sewing needle chucked in a pin vise. Lately though, I have used a sewing pin, put into a Bic retractable pencil. I have found I have so much more control with both, over the dental picks.
Thank you so much for this video, Paul. I was able to rescribe some panel lines in a kit I did body work on. The fine line tape is great! They are straight and clean! Thanks!
11:25 “There’s only one thing: you need to be careful not to make mistakes.” Ah... Well... I think I’ll do the “scribing primer” method, then. Great video!
Thanks for the excellent tutorial. I watched so many videos but finally i found a decent one that explains everything. Where can i get the tools shown in the video around 2:28. Are these two scribe tools modeling specific ? I cant seem to find theme anywhere
New sub scriber here - see what I did there...Ok, ok. So I'm going to build a kit that has very bad and deep, not to scale, panel lines. My plan will be to sand down most of the kit, fill the worst lines, and then re-scribe them. All this time I'm wondering what is the best material to fill the lines with, so that when I scribe over them again, they will not blow out. You touched on re-scribing panel lines that fall on seams, but only briefly mentioned using CA? Is there such a thing as CA putty or are you simply referring to CA glue? The panel lines I will be dealing with will need filler, and that filler needs to be strong enough so I can scribe it, just don't know what to use. Thank you in advance.
Thanks Paul! If I went into my dentist's office to ask for used instruments (or even if I wanted to buy new ones through my dentist), what are the technical names I would ask for?
It is a bit difficult, because numbers and names are not universal. You really need to see the manufacturers samples. And to be honest, use of hand instrumentation is not as common as it once was, so your dentist might not even know what you are referring to.
Also thank I so much for the tip scribing after priming! I found using Pentel .3 mech pencil it leaves just enough of a indentions/micro scratch where I can nearly free hand my first cut lines. This saves me so much time, not having to deal with DAYMO tape!! Do you have face book so I can share you with the Younger, and rapidly growing Gundam model circles?
Hi Paul been following you for years but this is the first time I have asked a question. Scribed panel lines and decals. To be more specific door and hood shut gaps on racing cars. Having great sucess with all manor of decals except getting them to lay down into, what we call in the UK, shut lines or panel gaps. I always use Microset and Microsol solutions but after scribing these they are maybe too deep, any seggestions please. Kind regards Dave London
Most of the time, I'll get the decal in place and do a round of Micro-Sol and make sure the decal is set and won't move. When it stiffens up a bit, I will take a sharp #23 blade and rock it through the groove ... making sure not to pull or distort the decal. Then apply more setting solution and get both sides to snuggle down. I then repair the small gap between the two halves with a little paint that I mix to match. The trick is to NOT cut the decal when it is soft and pliable because it will stretch and distort and you will have a lot more to repair than just the little gap.
Your skill is fantastic and educational at the same time. As a returning model maker after nearly 40 years, the techniques that you demonstrate are really helpful for me to learn new ways and brush up on old methods of attaining the results I desire but also authenticity. Thanks for taking the time and effort to help young and old alike, keep the videos coming please.
Thank you Dj.
13 minutes and 21 seconds of pure joy. Thanks for the tips!
I was getting worried panel lining would take years, but if done in the paint it seems quick and with better results! I love the idea of underpainting the panel line colour and having it show up when you scribe!
I learn so much from your videos.
I am a much better modeler by far due to watching your channel 2-3 years ago.
Great discussion done with careful thought and a sense of humour! You are a master modeler.
Paul, I want to thank you for re-kindling my interest in scale modeling! I love how you solve problems and your overall approach to all things related to the hobby.
You're lessons on scribing panel lines and details have been especially helpful. I now use those techniques on everything that has soft details. I've even enjoyed taking old 1/35th scale Tamiya figures and scribing in sharper details. It's amazing to bring older models to life with crisp detail. Thank you for sharing your wisdom!!!
Thank you so much for your comments. By any chance are you Dave Hill who I know from the Model Warships Forum Board?
@@scale-model-workshop I'm sorry, I'm not that D Hill. Thank you again for all your great videos! I'm so happy to see your techniques. I've been a great fan since seeing your work in FineScale Modeler magazine.
Your engraving work on your scribe tool looks like the giant candle holders I got from the Middle East. Super cool
Just discovered your channel.
Great video.
Subscribed.
Thank you Andrew!
I really appreciate your videos. You have good cadence, and a knack for instruction. Thank you for your work.
Just getting into scribing, I have watched a few other videos, bought specialized tools... your tutorial shows that its as much about the tool as it is the material. I realized using a special scribing tool would have made lines way too big for my 1/72 jets. Back to the dental picks I bought 10 years ago! This is the best scribing video as you explain what is happening inside the material, not just scratching a line in something. Thanks!
I found this very interesting. I'm going to try all methods of panel line enhancement to see the results I get. I'm sure there will be many mistakes but it's live and learn. I made many mistakes in the Marine Corps and I lived through it, these mistakes will on!y mean to start over. Again, thank you for the information.
Its the absolute video about panel lines. Thank you very mutch!
such a well explained and awesome edited video. I'm still learning and this is very useful to me.
So glad I followed up on this video after your Griffon swap videos. I am putting together a Tamiya Mk V and an Airfix VXII to make a Seafire Mk III. This video is fantastic to review :)
I'm so glad I found u again Paul!
I wish I could show you specialized Japanese scribers called "BMC" sizes run .075mm -3mm in .025mm increments and made from tungsten and leave a square bottom! They are originally made for Mech models, but I bet they would be amazing for aircraft models! Thanks for all u share Paul. If you can even see my profile picture the scribes are the scribers I was referring 2!
G’day Paul, I’ve got to thank you for your excellent videos and much more for your outstanding modelling results. That PAA Clipper - scratch built! - is simply breathtaking. I’m way too old now to aspire to scratch building, one of the, ironic, reasons being I smashed up my right wrist in an Air Force accident. This doesn’t allow me to do really intricate work, yet I can still knock out a passable plastic kit plane.
Because I’ve spent a lot of time up close with many different aircraft types, one of my goals is to make them look as ‘authentic’ as possible and a video like this is extremely valuable to me. From a distance people don’t see the scratches, stains, painting mistakes, dust and the effects of the weather. I do, of course, try to tone this down in smaller kits otherwise ‘real weathering’ would become way too obvious. Although I’ll never be in your league, I’ve subscribed and I’m now going through your films for more valuable tips. Thank you very much. Cheers, BH
I've scribed many Revell/ Monogram kits. I once thought it was a daunting task, but found out that I was wrong. For me, I have used Dump tape as guides and a sewing needle chucked in a pin vise. Lately though, I have used a sewing pin, put into a Bic retractable pencil. I have found I have so much more control with both, over the dental picks.
This is such a good video. Just found your channel.
YES! Over done panel lines can be such a shame. Its rare to see restrained paneling (or even accurate lapped panels and stressed skin).
Thank you so much for this video, Paul. I was able to rescribe some panel lines in a kit I did body work on. The fine line tape is great! They are straight and clean! Thanks!
Incredible as always. Thank you, Paul!
You are a master! Thank you so much for this scribing video! : )
I was oberscribing. This video has helped me a lot, thank you!
Your videos are addicting!
Finally a technique to create realistic panel lines.
Very good video, lots of useful information. Thanks for this!
Thank you, your in depth knowledge and presentation style is riveting (pun intended)
I will try. Thank you for demystifying this process
😀
Brilliant. communication and thank you for your insite of the method.
Never done primer and paint scribing. Really new for me, and i am eager to apply it
Amazing videos, thank you so much for creating them!
Love the video Paul👍George in uk 🇬🇧
Great video! It helped me a lot
You are great teacher sir!
Great video and very informative.
Great advice! I will try this on my MS-06R-1A
11:25 “There’s only one thing: you need to be careful not to make mistakes.” Ah... Well... I think I’ll do the “scribing primer” method, then. Great video!
Very good presentation
Thanks for the excellent tutorial. I watched so many videos but finally i found a decent one that explains everything. Where can i get the tools shown in the video around 2:28. Are these two scribe tools modeling specific ? I cant seem to find theme anywhere
thanks a lot for this very informative and useful advice video. Subscribed ;-)
Great video, one of my favorites, but could please do a video on accurate panel line placement before scribing?
New sub scriber here - see what I did there...Ok, ok. So I'm going to build a kit that has very bad and deep, not to scale, panel lines. My plan will be to sand down most of the kit, fill the worst lines, and then re-scribe them. All this time I'm wondering what is the best material to fill the lines with, so that when I scribe over them again, they will not blow out. You touched on re-scribing panel lines that fall on seams, but only briefly mentioned using CA? Is there such a thing as CA putty or are you simply referring to CA glue? The panel lines I will be dealing with will need filler, and that filler needs to be strong enough so I can scribe it, just don't know what to use. Thank you in advance.
thank you for this video
Spot On !
Thanks for sharing your knowledge sir.
Thanks Paul! If I went into my dentist's office to ask for used instruments (or even if I wanted to buy new ones through my dentist), what are the technical names I would ask for?
It is a bit difficult, because numbers and names are not universal. You really need to see the manufacturers samples. And to be honest, use of hand instrumentation is not as common as it once was, so your dentist might not even know what you are referring to.
Most of the modeling I see on youtube is too ambitious with both panel line accentuating and weathering.
Also thank I so much for the tip scribing after priming!
I found using Pentel .3 mech pencil it leaves just enough of a indentions/micro scratch where I can nearly free hand my first cut lines. This saves me so much time, not having to deal with DAYMO tape!!
Do you have face book so I can share you with the Younger, and rapidly growing Gundam model circles?
Im going to use the primer method.
Hi Paul been following you for years but this is the first time I have asked a question. Scribed panel lines and decals. To be more specific door and hood shut gaps on racing cars. Having great sucess with all manor of decals except getting them to lay down into, what we call in the UK, shut lines or panel gaps. I always use Microset and Microsol solutions but after scribing these they are maybe too deep, any seggestions please.
Kind regards Dave London
Most of the time, I'll get the decal in place and do a round of Micro-Sol and make sure the decal is set and won't move. When it stiffens up a bit, I will take a sharp #23 blade and rock it through the groove ... making sure not to pull or distort the decal. Then apply more setting solution and get both sides to snuggle down. I then repair the small gap between the two halves with a little paint that I mix to match. The trick is to NOT cut the decal when it is soft and pliable because it will stretch and distort and you will have a lot more to repair than just the little gap.
Great video. I gotta try it. I think scribing too deep makes an otherwise nice model look toy like.
Youre a beast
What a godsend! Like/Subscribe/Bell