I spray painted in yellow where knuckle & strut were joined before removal & re-fitted to the "mask". I only changed top mount bearings, everything else stayed the same. There was no camber adjustment on top mount. 106Nm for stabiliser links, 40Nm + 90 degrees for top nut, 150Nm, slacken by 180 degrees, 120Nm + 75 degrees for the cam and collar bolts that connect strut to knuckle. Hope this helps. (info from Merc).
Split my 22mm socket on the strut/knuckle bolts :( My springs and struts appear to be in good condition, with no rust. I was removing the strut assembly due to creaking of the top mount joint (stick / slip on bearings). It was not possible to rotate by hand.
They are heavy pieces of kit, and I regret not replacing the slip-on bearings. I don't think they are expensive. When you reassemble I really recommend checking tow-in and camber. Let me know what you decide to do.
@@shed52 i split 21mm, not 22 :) I am going to fit new bearings when I can get access to the pro spring compressor at work. I checked Merc EPC and it says the top 3-leg spider is not fitted on my Viano. If the strut receiver cup is fixed and I'm not changing strut, I wonder how geometry could be affected? I paint marked the strut to knuckle connection too. I will get alignment checked as I have changed TRE too.
what about the top mount bearing, how do you check it is not 'clonking'? also you will come back later for camber bolt adjustment? i also have w639 project
I will need camber bolt adjustment, but I am going to change the front tires first and then do the camber and tracking together. I did take the top bearing apart and seemed OK, I didn't have a 'clonking' but now regret not changing the top mount bearings. The van is off the road at the moment so I think I will go ahead and replace the top mount bearings. Many thanks David
Hi friend,i changed 2 times both shock absorbers and top mount,but its hitting to dashboard,it seems like hitting to chasis when tires hit back from the bad roads,it could be bcz of top mount plate? Could have gap or something? İts just 1 pin and 1 nut keeping it between of chasis on car, also coil spring could be not durable? Coil spring could be softer than old times,Bcz my car is 16 years old Thanks
On my 2009 W639, there was a cup (that receives the top mount) that stayed in place when I dropped the strut assembly. I spray painted around the cup to ensure it stayed on the same place. The top nut and washer was free to move, but the hole in the cup was only just big enough for the strut assembly top thread, so camber position was maintained. I hope this makes sense.
![How to change shock absorber on MERCEDES VITO W639 [TUTORIAL AUTODOC]](/img/n.gif)
I spray painted in yellow where knuckle & strut were joined before removal & re-fitted to the "mask". I only changed top mount bearings, everything else stayed the same. There was no camber adjustment on top mount. 106Nm for stabiliser links, 40Nm + 90 degrees for top nut, 150Nm, slacken by 180 degrees, 120Nm + 75 degrees for the cam and collar bolts that connect strut to knuckle. Hope this helps. (info from Merc).
As you are going to all the effort to disassemble the entire damper, I expected a thorough cleaning of all components prior to final assembly.
Split my 22mm socket on the strut/knuckle bolts :( My springs and struts appear to be in good condition, with no rust. I was removing the strut assembly due to creaking of the top mount joint (stick / slip on bearings). It was not possible to rotate by hand.
They are heavy pieces of kit, and I regret not replacing the slip-on bearings. I don't think they are expensive. When you reassemble I really recommend checking tow-in and camber. Let me know what you decide to do.
@@shed52 i split 21mm, not 22 :) I am going to fit new bearings when I can get access to the pro spring compressor at work. I checked Merc EPC and it says the top 3-leg spider is not fitted on my Viano. If the strut receiver cup is fixed and I'm not changing strut, I wonder how geometry could be affected? I paint marked the strut to knuckle connection too. I will get alignment checked as I have changed TRE too.
Thank you
I got crack rubber or foam on my bottom coil spring, i dont know it is, no noise from the front shocks only too soft, but i try 150km no body roll
Not an old bump stop is it?
@@shed52 i think so, i dont know about bump stop since japanese car no bump stop, do i need to install with universal bump stop?
@@mydc2200 A bump stop would help protect your car from access travel of the damper.
what about the top mount bearing, how do you check it is not 'clonking'? also you will come back later for camber bolt adjustment? i also have w639 project
I will need camber bolt adjustment, but I am going to change the front tires first and then do the camber and tracking together. I did take the top bearing apart and seemed OK, I didn't have a 'clonking' but now regret not changing the top mount bearings. The van is off the road at the moment so I think I will go ahead and replace the top mount bearings. Many thanks David
Hi friend,i changed 2 times both shock absorbers and top mount,but its hitting to dashboard,it seems like hitting to chasis when tires hit back from the bad roads,it could be bcz of top mount plate? Could have gap or something? İts just 1 pin and 1 nut keeping it between of chasis on car, also coil spring could be not durable? Coil spring could be softer than old times,Bcz my car is 16 years old
Thanks
On my 2009 W639, there was a cup (that receives the top mount) that stayed in place when I dropped the strut assembly. I spray painted around the cup to ensure it stayed on the same place. The top nut and washer was free to move, but the hole in the cup was only just big enough for the strut assembly top thread, so camber position was maintained. I hope this makes sense.
Woah you need better tools
You are absolutely right, I had to do this one on a budget, away from the other one who controls the purse strings.