Laird Hamilton: I’m dead if I fall
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- Опубліковано 6 бер 2018
- Big-wave surfer Laird Hamilton reflects on the risk of death and serious injury when surfing monster waves, comparing various waves to dog breeds and being the first to risk his life surfing the Jaws surf break in Maui. Hamilton also talks of realizing a lifelong dream surfing an “unrideable” wave at Teahupoo in Tahiti.
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Laird is a badass. For the ones here talking trash about him, wouldn't say it to his face. Not to many on this planet would dare to take 80+ ft. Plus waves in shark infested waters, and do it alone. You keyboard warriors are like comedy central lol
Keep on setting records bro, you are a true legend!!
I paddled my canoe on some choppy canadian lake water last weekend and survived it with only a sore knee. I think im ready for a 80+foot........wait what... 80+ foot waves? The man is a legend and a badass.
Patrick Williamson Tiger sharks scare me so much. They are true maneaters and will pursue you until they kill you and eat you. Hawaii has them. Now sharks are targeting larger prey because of overfishing and the environmental problems killing porpoises and dolphins, and attacking humans. The eco system has been affected. I was so scared hearing about and seeing the re enactment of the 4 Australians that capsized near turtle island near an old canning factory that spilled guts in the ocean attracting sharks. A tiger picked them off one by one, never leaving them and only one survived. I would have told my boyfriend to get up on the rocks 1st and then pull me up because he is much stronger. And it.would make more sense for me to help him and hope he could lift himself with his strength then to get me up on them 1st who would not be able to pull him up. Maybe he gave his girlfriend the chance to survive, but I would have done it differently because I would want him to survive and trusted him to pull me up. It was terrible because the girls brother, sister in law and boyfriend, the experienced Captain of the group, as well as the scared fisherman that stayed with the boat all were killed by the tiger.
He was too terrified to get in the water and swim for it because he fished those waters and had seen the big sharks, knew the tigers and others were out there. I know in Hawaii you are not supposed to swim in Oct or Nov. The locals stay out of the water during those months. I guess tigers get active and more aggressive or may be breeding. I remember a lady in Hawaii went swimming behind her house with her friend and the tiger took her. Her friend escaped. They also went early in the morning which is what I avoid, because I know a marathon swimmer attacked in Florida that got attacked by a Bull. I always say the morning is like going to work for a shark, he has to hunt, grab breakfast, and get ready for his day. And then at dusk he is getting his supper. Although they constantly move hunt, and eat, I do think they are more active at certain times, because fish are affected by changes in time, and I always listen to locals. And my gut. I am thankful for those shark repellant magnets you can put on a board and your ankle and the boards designed like the sea snakes, and other new repellants and new design on suits. I will buy one next time I enter the ocean.
Plus I have seen how those “surf cowboys” get paralyzed or killed. It is like a “surf cowboy” getting on the meanest and most unpredictable bull ever that has killed and hurt others and trying to ride it. Just like I saw TI Hediman, the bull rider, literally get his face ripped off by a bull and his friend Lane the top bull rider get killed by one, this kind of surf cowboying, makes me cringe when I see these top surf cowboy’s ride on bull waves. And they have that crazy corral on the bottom that will rip you to shreds like glass.
foxibot oh I get it- you want to live forever .....
Exactly! Talking shit and the keyboard warriors most likely haven't done hardly anything close to Lairds. I dont think anyone would say anything to his face,its obvious he would kick ass no problem!
Right?!
Dude invented the short board with straps.
7:08 Laird's eyes start to tear up because he realized his life's dream. That wave in Tahiti was so perfect, so massive, so heavy, so dangerous that it finally fulfilled his quest.
How many people can say THAT? It reminds me of Alex Honnold's free solo ascent of El Cap. In Alex's situation, there is literally no one else on the planet who could do what he did. For Laird, it's mighty close to that, because the adjustments that Laird made on that wave were expert, subtle, and the result of a lifetime of riding waves. Extraordinary.
Be the rock
No offense but 16 year olds ride bigger waves at Teahupoo these days. Laird brought it to the attention of the mainstream. Not that he isn't a great Athlete but Alex' achievement is on a whole other level. Also, I think the human ego is ever only temporarily satisfied. So if you wanna "realize your dream", it better be the path than a certain goal. :)
Nader Rahy ~ in a way, you’re correct. The first is always the craziest. But Honnold’s (sp?) will definitely stand alone. What Alex did was almost unachievable. What Laird did was make the undoable , possible. He’s a pioneer.
Elmo ~ not sure if they were tears. Your comment is still solid but his eyes are red because he is in his pool training every day, sometimes twice a day. Check out the joe rogan podcast with Laird. He goes into his training in depth.
There are at least a dozen people who could free climb el cap clean. Honnold isn't the only one capable of doing it.
Laird is the man but Graham and whatever company is behind him is pretty awesome to bring this to the masses. Great probing questions and a disarming manner that lets the guest (Laird) get strait to the heart of the truth without any noise. Continually impressed with Graham...and Laird is some kind of modern shaman warrior king.
Men like Laird are necessary to humanity, if we are going to explore our potential as a species.
Hal Shwimer kind way of saying test dummie
Oh, fuck off
Perfectly said. Wish I could find a guy like this no doubt. Take notes gentlemen
Lots of time in the air for me whether its skydiving or my job. This guy gets it...humble keeps you alive
What a legend.
An inspiring warrior of life’s rare moments of defiance and personal fearlessness to conquer the impossible.
I couldn't have a greater respect for Laird and what he's accomplished. He's so right. That wave may not be the biggest but it's HANDS DOWN one of the meanest waves with NO margin for error. It's a stone cold killer! Kudos
Graham is the GREATEST listener on the planet.
I almost didn't recognize Laird with a shirt on..
LOL!!!
Big is big. This guy is a monster.
Todd Parker That's what she said!
Eat 4 of those for breakfast
Graham, you're one of the best interviewers ever !! Why? Cuz you shut up and let the interviewee talk : )
Couldn’t have said it any better
Been listening a lot to Laird interviews recently after watching North Shore movie. What an interesting guy, when he talks you get pulled in so easily to his stories etc.
Great interview!
Imlike this extended explanation over the ride aive watched of this a million times. Thanks Laird
He will go down in a league of his own, the Muhammad Ali of surfing, someone that took the skills and talent further
Not even close...only someone who doesn’t surf would say such a thing
Sage Spalding laird pioneered open ocean big wave riding using jet skis, as well as for big wave shore riding. He invented the hydroplane board. Yes there are other big wave great surfers but Laird explores to expand the sport of surfing.
Barf
Sage Spalding spoken like a true petty jealous little mind
Sage Spalding you must have some serious envy issues.. even my friend jerry Lopez thinks highly of Laird and gives him respect and credit due for expanding on the sport of monster wave riding. Today we have hydro plane windsurfing, jet ski pulling open ocean and shore big wave surfing thanks to Laird and his search for new challenges. And yes there are other great, big wave surfers. In the 1960s another friend of mine was one of the first teenagers to ride big waves, mike Doyle...
One of the world's most amazing athletes. Hamilton is a true bad-ass.
He is Aqua Man! Arguably the greatest big wave surfer of all time! What a legend and most surfers and body surfers know that!
Excellent interview all around, very interesting guy who clearly has nerves of steel!
7:31 “My body was really happy that I made it.”
He is at one with the ocean, interacting with it, at its most dynamic moments...legendary
Gifted surfer. And, an awesome man too.
Legendary Guy
I've never heard anyone say the number doesn't matter, but when he says it then it just makes sense. Once you get past a certain point you are dancing with death no matter how big or small it is. The largest surf I've ever been in was about 12 feet and that tossed me until I was breathless on the shoreline. I see people riding 20ft waves and that blows my mind. I can't even begin to think about going as far as 5 times over that.
Reef raider- I know what you mean brother. I surfed off the wall at double overhead and ate it and almost died. I've surf sunset at 12' Hawaiian And almost didn't make it up after a wipeout. There's been 2 other times in California and once in Mexico that I thought I was gonna breathe water and somehow I popped up. There's people here that have no idea what they're talking about.
15' faces can Knock the wind out to you and cause you to drown if you eat it. They can also bend U backwards the wrong way or break your neckand make you sit in a wheel chair the rest of your life.
Mark Foo died on a 15 footer. And you have people here talking sh*t about Laird Hamilton!? Lets see their surf videos.
@@powercourageandwisdom Agree 100%, it's not always the size of the wave, it's the way it breaks, the contour of the bottom, the composition of the bottom, swell direction, speed, currents and even the wind can play into it. Surfing some fun waist to shoulder high one time at Santa Ana River Mouth with some friends, a friend wiped out on a 4 footer and when he came up said that he had never in his life had a 4 foot wave hold him down on the bottom before.
Closest I came to death was on a day you could string three 9' boards end to end on the face of the wave and still fit a couple of small boards at the top and bottom on a sand bar beach with a 30mph offshore wind. This was one of those 100 year storms on the East Coast. The wind was holding the tops of the waves up so that by the time the lip came down it was like 5 or more feet thick and it was breaking top to bottom. Was sitting in the impact zone after I lost my board on a previous wave and a gnarly giant lip came down on top of me and slammed me on the bottom that was 20 feet deep where I was floating. Had the bottom been rock it probably would have broken bones, as it is it knocked all the wind out of me when I hit bottom. I still don't know how I ever made it back to shore, I was 19 at the time and in great shape, that's probably what saved me.
@@rebel-yell9453 - I toast to the waves That gave us the rides we still think about, even a couple of decades later, The waves we had this past weekend, which were pumping by the way, and to the waves that we have yet to ride.
Aloha 🤙
@@powercourageandwisdom Dude I can't tell you how many times my body has been contorted all out of shape in double overhead and up surf, but I've even almost dislocated my knee on just a 5 footer once too. The ocean is a lot more powerful than people think. Unless they've lived it they just can't understand.
@@rebel-yell9453 - tell me about. Even surfing mellow San Onofre can send you to the ER for stitches on your brow.
I can't Fathom the POWER of a 100 ft WAVE. Thats insane. You fall from that you might as well kiss ur azz Goodbye. What an incredible life this guy has lived
And yet, the wave he rode in Tahiti was 50 feet or so, but just as powerful, heavy, and ridiculously thick as the 100 footer. The Tahiti wave was the pitbull and the 100 footer is the great dane. The pitbull will wreck you.
A 5ft wave with a reasonable interval (10-15s) has the power to knock down the wall of a house. That should help put it into perspective
I went over the falls on a 6ft wave in maui and hairline cracked one of my ribs.
Put that into perspective.
I was riding a pitbull six footer though.
@@elmoblatch9787 Get a clue. Teahuppo has never been 50'. It never will be. Lairds wave was 24-27' +/-. But heaviest 24-27' there is, because there is no drop on the back. It is all suck out, and the whole ocean is behind it. 50'... t Teahuppo...LOL. And other people have now towed into much larger waves at Teahuppo and Cloudbreak even....
@@TheAgentAssassin that is your lack of skill. Experienced watermen know how to not go over the falls. When they sense a closeout, they drop down to gain speed, bottom turn, and aggressively turn back into the wave and actually explode in and UP into the wave to punch out the back.
One of the most overlooked athletes
This man has been given a “tremendous” gift to show what can be accomplished when you believe in your dreams. He has an amazing wife who understands what he believes, and supports him; this, alone, is very unique in any marriage. God bless you all.
As someone who grew up in Hawaii i can't believe i never really heard of this guy. I mean i'm not into sports at all in any kind of way but i looked him up after getting his creamer from Costco and this guy is truly a freaking badass. Crazy as hell but damn i'm so impressed by this guy life story.
If you ever get chance check out a documentary called " riding giants"
I’d love to believe that when he stood on shore contemplating the waves of Tahiti that he said to himself, “Eddie would go.”
Legend!
Balls of steel
A true master and pioneer to wave riding full stop.
Laird's a Legend! He omits no fear. It's the old saying, NO GUTS, NO GLORY!!!
saxonsteve his dad was a very chill dude
Laird must get that from his father. I can see myself having a beer with him.
That's Laird like he used to be in the old days. Thank you! / Gigi
The Edmond Hiliary of surfing
Well spoken
Lard is a living ledgend !
Amazing guy
The photo of Laird dragging his hand on the FRONTside at Teahupoo is the greatest photo in surfing history. It shows the insane power of that wave trying to pull him up and his knowledge of waves to do that maneuver so he could stay low and ride it. No one else on the planet would have thought to do that. Amazing innovative guy .
Jaws*
Cheers Laird from Maroubra.
Living Legend.
He is built like a football player especially his neck. I have watched Laird many times in the past at Jaws, he surfed Jaws like most surfers carved up small waves and then he would jump off the back of the wave. He was amazing.
Legend
When I lived in Haiku in the eighties you could see piehi break every once in a while while driving into town. It was considered kapu back then.
Yes no one had ever surfed it .. I lived right up the road a few hundred yards from Jaws cafe today but it was all rural and uninhabited , I miss it everyday .
The wave size is only one variable. It's like slope angle in skiing: 30° ice>55° powder.
A true legend
Laird, OG Big Waver !
You don't need a number,
you fall, you die.
Unless you're lucky.
Three thumbs up if I could ! 👍👍👍
Legend.
What a legend
He's so cool
Gnarly, dude.
He is the best
Fun, up to 6 to 8 feet, depending on reef or sand bank or coral, or is it it pitching, and drawing water off the reef.
Above that height; a wave of consequence.
blocking the sun, a wave of significent consequence.
I surfed a fair bit over 8 to 10 feet, but i nearly died on a 3 foot wave over shallow reef.
Mainly surfed cold water in southern Victoria, Aus.
Continual vigilance required, not photoshoot poses.
Don't think numbers, just think:
a wave of consequence
the bigger the wave, the bigger significent consequences
54 year old.
RESPECT
He acts so serious for a surfer
D B big wave surfers are a different breed
swagcity Yeah not knocking him. He seems like a real one.
I actually think he's good for the sterotype lol
D B most surfers are stoners who catch baby waves with a puffy chest .
swagcity My point exactly lol.
You know that there is a high risk of dying, you go voluntarily, ppl die there this and that but yet you go.....amazing stuff!!!
I love how he compares waves to dog breeds...so true
Are you fucking kidding?!?! He doesn't know shit about dogs. Not all pitbulls are aggressive. It depends on how the owner raises them. Un fucking believable
Steven F ❄️
@@stevenf7752 fuck off Steven, Pitbulls suck as pets, not ALL of them but most ppl shouldn't be allowed to own one
@@The_Essential_Review I'm not gonna fuck with you and waste my time but you obviously don't know shit about pitbulls. There's videos with them fucking laying next to little kids and babies and there protective of them. I'm guessing your just ignorant
@@stevenf7752 it’s a generalisation bro! Lol
Laird Hamilton takes on Giant Mullagamore , it’s a tad cold 🥶 compared to home and it’s heavy heavy shit , just wonder if Laird has ever thought 💭 about taking it on 🤔🇦🇺👍
Laird Hamlitons neck is thicker than my waist, which is saying something. Last time I saw my 6 pack was in the early 2000's
I’m curious if there is any scientific research completed to understand the reef in the area they surf. Such has underwater GPS or something similar.
The scientific term is called “bathymetry”.
I think they smoked right before this interview. Lol
He could make million$ plugging Visine products!
That's exactly what I was thinking!! LOL Either that or Laird is the calmest most Zen guy I've ever heard in my life
I doubt it. Laird Hamilton is probably the healthiest person alive.
@@coreymclernon Laird smokes weed. He's been charged for majiruana possession.
But I strongly doubt that he was stone for this interview. I also think that he doesn't smoke a lot. Too much in shape to behave that way.
Being born and raised in Hawaii myself. When one spends as much time in the ocean as this guy does, your eyes are often bloodshot from too much salt and sun. But i get the humor.
Should have shown the footage
A place in Portugal has the biggest waves they regularly hit 100ft
Nazare
How can you make this video without showing the legendary first chopes ride ?
Laird in an old school, All American badass.
I totally get the time slowing down thing, i fell off a 3 story building when i was young and its like your brain is trying to cram in as much information before you die and everything slows down.
SuperJohn12354 I agree.
I have truly experienced the dramatic and memorable time warp thing a number of times.
Although frightening and at a loss for control at the time, the memory of it always entertains me.
I believe it is a survival tool we have been gifted with where we have the opportunity to select every possible route of escape before discarding each one.
Surviving is good.
I got knocked off my bike by a car and was flying through the air for what felt like an eternity, during which I seemed to control my landing to avoid hitting my head. In the future we will have ways to recreate this. Some people try it with a high dose of ketamine to slow things down at the same time as cocaine to speed things up. Certainly you can get close to that experience with certain drugs. But a way to control it could be really useful.
Funny how on the movie Riding Giants when the tow in was introduced, the claim was that it was the only way to surf large waves like peahi, and it was impossible to catch it paddling. Now, everyone paddles and jet skis are only for rescuing. Times change, and in retrospect Hamilton is a dinosaur now like Greg Noll was when the film was made.
derm needs to check out the growth on his right lower eyelid.
Taking off pn a 100 foot wave zero to 70 miles an hour instantly. This is profoundly scary..
Kind of like a catapult shot off an aircraft carrier, although on hundred footers he's already doing 35mph+ getting towed by the jet ski, paddling into a 100 footer is next to impossible, nobody can paddle that fast, and a late takeoff on something like that would be complete suicide.
Imagine how productive you would be if time slowed down for you like it does for Laird Hamilton when he's in full on flow mode it's basically as if your cognitive abilities are turned on into superhuman speed, it's nature's answer to the NZT pill.
t liked to see this monster in the Nazaré monster waves.
Give me a board that works-my board.
"Why were you emotional after almost being turned into chum?"
G.O.A.T.
I know what he means about the number not meaning anything. When it's truly giant waves you feel your stomach fall out of your butt, like that's the best indicator of size
3:13 i cant imagine taking the drop on a jaws wave without a pull vest, he’s not even wearing a wetsuit.
❤
i understand what he is actually trying to say in the first minute but i do not think many other people do. however i wouldn't be able to explain it better than he did.
Unless you actually are ever out in epic conditions like that, you can't really explain it to someone who hasn't, no matter how well you state it they would never understand. I hear you bro.
"Its like going to space, into the unknown"
Laird obviously doesnt get that we know more about Space than the ocean
Have to have a huge sack to ride these waves
We had no idea what would happen...
We had been building up to it so we had an idea of what to expect
The Contrasting dualities of a master are not for us to question- but to ponder individually to help us attain a higher motivating consciousness not in sync with the rest of humanity but beating to the pounding of your own drum.
Saw this guy on Joe Rogan’s show. I already knew he was a bad ass but the level of conditioning he puts himself through is astounding.
Oh yeah, I'd like to see if Laird could catch a wave at Swami's.
I guess would depend if he wanted to surf boring perfection or challenging attitude waves. Don't get me wrong when I lived in socal Swami's or Black's were my first two choices. Surfed Swami's on a day when indicators was breaking, oil slick glass and moving mountains. It was super fun, the fins on my board were vibrating like a door buzzer. Everyone out was riding California guns and I was riding a 5'6" fish and loving it.
We surfed Swami's in the moonlight one summer night ... it was magical .
I didn't see him surfing on a wave.
You can choose not to be stupid.
His hair look a like a 🌊
He sounds like Tandy from last man on earth.
so gnarly tho
Ledge
He breaks boards, like for fun!
Teeahoopo?!?
G.O.A.T. Nuff said.
That interviewer is kinda square but guess I like him
It's never I, me, mine with laired it's always us and we.
why did he say teahupoo like that
Wyatt Bauer I wondered the same thing
jardean hinchliffe You’re an embarrassment.
how is it pronounced?
Andrew W Tea-hoo-poo I think. But "tea" isn't prononced like the beverage but like a name Tea (it rhymes with Gea/Geia). He prononced it allright in the video at 4:23 :) Anyways however you try to say it, just don't say CHOO-POO or CHOW-POO which is this weird aussie way of saying it haha. It's so wrong x)
jardean hinchliffe Yes, lot's of brave Aussie knocking trolls talking shit from behind the safety of their computer screen, but coming down here and saying it to our faces is a WHOLE different ball game.
Laird should have been a Navy Seal, he would singlehandedly end any conflict the second they saw him hit the beach. Chuck Norris has nightmares about Hamilton kicking his ass.
Brass balls here. Damn
How come Laird never surfed Nazarenne?
I don't think he likes cold water. Neither do I. Jaws is plenty big enough and you usually don't have to wear a grotesque rubber suit. I hate wetsuits, that's why I live in a place where the water is always warm even in winter. Lived in socal for a few years the wetsuit stayed in the car as soon as the water temp rose to 68, only used parts of the suit below that unless it got seriously cold. Lived in norcal too, hottest days of summer and you still had to wear boots, gloves and a hood and a 6mil suit. Fuck that nonsense.
Laird seems kinda baked in this interview.
Jason Ji, agreed but I think this is just the way he is. I’m not sure how smart or not smart he is, but he certainly has trouble finishing a sentence.
He has ADHD really bad no drugs
I listed to an interview where he stated that
The real life Bohdi
He kinda looks like David Lee roth
come to NAZARE BIGGEST WAVE IN THE WORLD