ULTIMATE Home Subwoofer -18" Dayton ULTIMAX - Theater Driver Upgrade
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- Опубліковано 8 лют 2019
- Full specs and details here: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
The 15" is quite a bit cheaper and still very impressive! www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
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IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION, PLEASE READ FULLY: This video is for entertainment purposes only. The content of this video include or may include high voltage wiring, moving parts, suspended weights, risk of fire electrocution and many other hazards. These hazards are capable of serious injury, death or property damage and destruction. Consult a with licensed professional before attempting anything you see in this video. Do not try this at home. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. - Навчання та стиль
Full specs and details here: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Q3MB0B2/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=trialnerror-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B00Q3MB0B2&linkId=df45bbae0f9f020e738ab042c8a1cfa9
The 15" is quite a bit cheaper and still very impressive! www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BYE342C/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=trialnerror-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B00BYE342C&linkId=fbad479d17630186ead4db65b979a8da
The older speaker is a woofer meant for loud volume of not very low bass, you see them mainly in concerts and dj setups.
Well it is a pa Subwoofer
No bass reflex ?
I got a free 21 inch Pyle in 93 from a club. It was insanely loud in my Nissan Pulsar with no box hahaha. I have no idea of the specs but I used it with two 10 inch bazooka tubes with Lanzar subs and a Fosgate amp. Eh, I was broke and like 15. 😁
@@Trialnerror weren't we all lol
Yeah same story here with a pair of Zeus 15" subs i ended up with for free and a Punch amp.
Pretty much a life achievement back then.
Pole piece vent was blocked when you did the break in. Do that on it's side or resting on 2x4s with room for air so it can breath.
Now that's my definition of a pure home theatre setup...i wish i had that in my home!
Lol, you got my thumbs up for the oldschool audiobahn setups! I have quite a large collection of their older stuff going now and still love it 20yrs later lol
@@Trialnerror indeed I do, I have a nos alum15q a nos 1005q and 4 1206q's all still in the wooden boxes
I saw this in my recommendations and clicked so fast.
Hope you enjoy the sub! It's a beast.
Also I'm not an expert, but in software, you'll probably have a spike in impedance around 30hz in your sealed enclosure. Not sure how much those pillows reduced it, but it's 16Ohms+ I believe, so you'll need a beefy amp to get rated power at that impedance around 30hz.
My Full Marty its at 28hz and is 24Ohms, but it still gets louder than I ever need on my Inuke3KDSP.
It was good to see how you wired everything. I've always worked with car audio so home theater components like the Behringer is cool to see in action. Thanks for explaining.
Anchor the projector less solid not more. The joist is vibrating and taking the projector along for the ride. Find a way to isolate it. Foam, spring, a multi step dampening system.
He could also go into the attic space, and place additional supports between 2+ joists around the projector mount, connecting them all together would make it where he would need a lot more power to hit the resonant frequency.
Although, I did hear him say up "upstairs, so this may not be an option for him. but with his acoustic drop ceiling, he could still open the actual ceiling and do the same and place his tiles back.
*damping
Just built my PE kit using the 18. Haven't fired it up yet, but Damn that woofer is freaking huge. Nothing will prepare you for the size and weight. Need to wire up the terminal box to the speaker, then connect my XTI2002 amp to it. I'll tell you, I am glad I went with t nuts for mounting the sub. Screws would destroy met very easily. Highly recommended to your subscribers to use t nuts!!
Wow .I love your theater bro. It is so sick. And shaking the projector wow it's got kick if that's now a problem good stuff
Talk about living in a movie while watching it 😱😱! That's a scary powerful sub right there!
No predrilling........ brave man
Dayton's speaker drivers usually deliver great performance, and represent a solid value.
Suggestion for the projector: get a tray mount and isolate the projector with foam underneath.
Ventilation shouldn't be an issue as most ceiling mounted projectors mount from the bottom.
It's not the most stable mounting solution, but you won't see your screen shaking like the rear view mirror.
I have 2 in separate chambers 3.74 cuft . Bought last classic daytons 18 in subwoofers on ebay and Amazon , $140 and 180 .. 3.5 in voice coil . High xmax, 500watts subwoofer amp, also dayton. Best purchase i have ever made. Rubber edge not the newest design . I though the ultimax was aluminum cone. I summed mine to 8 ohm. It added nicely to to the 3 way 70 hz hipass to 8 in carbon fiber mid bass sealed and open baffle duo 2in for midrange then ribbon(on sale from madisound@ $25 each. Building air core inductor/ high grade caps. My friend's leave Speechless, rolling eyes at my towers and my subs with dual monoblock tpa3255 summed and diy'ed case on top. Glad my neighbors ( graveyard across street) took a year to break in the rubber surround. 2 ohm load kills home amplifier and most 4 ohm loads also. Get a correct amp for less distortion. Never sum the 2 ohm to 1 ohm or your sub amp is toast. Only car amplifier can handle that load. Be careful. I have 50 years experence, i work from wheelchair and i make people say my home sounds like a $20,000 system, driven by headphone jack on new a13 samsung and 30 ft cable . I hipass and compensate the 3 db loss with cheap douk preamplifier fmods feed it . Sub plate takes a split feed, full range and does parametric and low pass crossover for subwoofers. Omg , poverty audio + my knack ,sold 500 systems ,custom since 1972. Thinking of a channel on youtube. Health bad, really dont feel like doing anything, age 70
What an upgrade. would love to hear you home theater, Its very impressive!
Nice build, and that driver is a beast! One recommendation: use XLR-TRS cables for that patch between the crossover and your amp. The amp has balanced inputs and you’ll get a cleaner signal. Also, a line-level RCA to balanced XLR input can *potentially* be an issue but I’m not sure if the Behringer cover can handle an unbalanced line-level input. If you have issues, consider a DI box between your receiver and the Behringer to match things up. However it is most likely not necessary.
Great review. I am going to install two of these in my home theatre this year each powered with up to 1200 Watts@4ohm and now I am a little bit scared, because of what you said it does to your house.
I made some calculations with WinISD and it looks like this is the perfect driver for a small, closed box, because it plays very low at high volume without getting close to Xmax. In addition I have a room mode peak at 18Hz that will lift the dropoff below 20Hz. I think this will outperform any vented box that has the issue of excursion limits at very low frequency. Man I am hyped.
Beautiful set-up
that amp rack is so beautiful
It also looks pretty !
I build mine same driver, 13.61 cu ft box vented tuned to 15hz, I took pictures as I was building just need to upload on youtube
Thanks man you help me decide what subs i want! I'm putting 2 of these on my Kicker zx2500.1 in my jeep grand Cherokee
That's going to knock loose any dental work you've had done! Damn, two of these in a SUV will be downright scary. Have fun man!
I have the same Behringer cover... it's awesome
I love your home theater room!
Thanks
I worked at a pro touring sound company a few years back and we took delivery of 22 new Martin Audio stage monitors that we immediately sent out to a run of shows. They burnt up 4 in the first few days. You need to understand these are serious speakers that are designed to be hammered and in this case sound exceptionally good doing it. Our chief engineer put a call into Martin Audio to kinda get a gauge on why this is happening and it turns out like many manufacturers they don't do much in terms of burn in. Now understand stage monitoring is very abusive to speakers. They often run flat out for hours at a time with the amps (processed amps) hitting limit constantly. Again that is these speaker's life purpose. As long as the processing (all digital) is set up correctly they should just take it unless they get sent constant square waves for extended periods of time. Martin Audio told us to put them on the bench for 48 hours and run pink noise through them at a moderate level and we should have no more issues. (Our chief engineer suspected that would be the issue but we didn't have problems like that with product from our other manufacturers so we also wanted the parts sent to us under warranty which I believe they did). After we did that there were no more issues with blown drivers in them. Ever again!!! They don't need to break in? Yes, this is an extreme case but a case none the less. If the manufacturer says that they probably aren't lying to you.
Your new sub speaker and the shaking of the walls and projector vibration and requiring more power reminds me of the movie Back to the Future when Michael J fox with his huge huge speaker when he hits that guitar string and gets blown across the room just hilarious 😂...love your work man 🔇🎵🎶🔇
The air vent is to help cool the coil not the magnet. Nice upgrade!
I have a pair of Pro Audio subwoofer 18's in my home theater they do well under 30 hz they do well it shakes the hell out of the house just fine. I started from a car audio standpoint too "6 15's walled in my 78 Olds Delta 88 lowrider 4 pumps 12 batteries lol!" I like my Kove Armageddon 15's allot it just don't have the bandwith the PA speakers have like when a M1A2 tank fires the PA subwoofer shines where the Kove just sounds okay its very loud and deep but not that punchy at all probably because the Kove's wont go over 100hz that well it slopes real bad around 120+hz.
You can't really beat the Dayton Audio UM18 at the price point 19 years ago a subwoofer like that would run you around $750+ each. I liked your video on them it's very informative. I'm doing all my highs from Dayton Audio towers and bookshelf speakers. hidden in the ceiling and walls. I'm just searching around what people do with them :-) great video!
Wow 21:46 classic mtx blue thunder 💯💯
Trial n' Error can I please have it??? Lol 😁😁
ive only got two 12-inch single coil 4-ohm MTX Terminator subwoofers rated 100 to 250 watts RMS each. in a ported box
WOW! I had to PAUSE @ 7:15 WHEW! THAT'S a BEAUTY! It certainly was packed well. What "d like to have though was to have heard the previous sub in comparison. Tears For Fears " Woman In Chains, starts with complete bass notes for a killer sub. Now ON with the show (smile).
Hi, really nice home theater you got going on. Can you tell me what was the sweep test you played for the free air test?
Never mind, i found it.
Those old school Crown Micro-tech and Macro-tech are no joke. Usually the rated power is a lot more than what is rated with these amps.
Yea man my 600 straight bangs the fukkk outta my xls 1500 wtffff
Good idea blocking off the port
Who knows what that would have been tuned at but with such a big high excursion driver would have to be tuned LOW and bigger cross-section to eliminate noise.
Maybe consider bracing the box if its not already, I've had good luck from using that egg carton shaped cut foam sheets inside the box seems to reduce vibrations and noticeably improve the sound
Get some Dyna Matt or Second Skin its good sound dentner . Put Some on the projector may help!
great video......im wanting to build 4 12 inch dayton subs or some 18 inch but the 18 inch subs are $460 plus tax in canada.....and the 12s are $300 taxex in
You can home treat it and throw a dedicated amp on it to improve sound
The Sub is coupled to the house. Thats why free standing suds are preferred. They are Uncoupled.
Good luck
I have an IB sub with eight 15 inch drivers, which I run with no problems.
If I had one suggestion it would be to go out of your way to port that enclosure. Even better build a new one and make it a bit over sized tuned to 25hz. That way you can drive the woofer with less power and get more output. Also it is unique to have such a sub built into the wall like that. I think you should have kept the pro audio 18" and added the Dayton to your setup externally from the wall so you could possible locate it in the room where you get the most out of those low notes and remedy some of the vibration. Anyhow, nice setup and thanks for sharing.
@@Trialnerror I really like dual 18" procella audio v18 sub design
@@Trialnerror also what I was thinking' the reflex of the new sub will hit lows like crazy when ported correctly, but you will miss the Hard Punch. You could build a new sub box for the Pro Audio and behind the screen definitely would be an ideal place. Very nice setup brother.
Nice room
I like the car audio builds, I'm running a single dd 9918sc (18") on 8000w peak 4000w rms at .6 ohm in a little audi a4. The big 18s love the lows
18's can go really low but they kinda suck in the speed department. In close quarters I prefer 10's often. Mushy bass is less exciting to me than not quite as low because at close range the wave form doesn't have the distance to completely develop and with that you aren't even hearing some of it.
Do the math here. Your car battery is 12 Volts, use ohms law, volts divided into watts gives you amps. 4000 watts divided by 12 Volts gives you 333 Amps! Where do you get the power from? 6 car batteries. Also you need 3 sets of booster cables. You are out for lunch!
@@robertkattner1997 It actually doesn't work that way any more. There are a lot of parts to that. Amps are far more efficient now than before plus they recycle energy in the same way that electric cars do and the way in which amps are measured all together allows amps to measure far more output than input. Study current Class D tech and you will see what I am talking about. Electronics engineers aren't screaming it is a lie because it is not and they know it. Meanwhile this is way off topic so back to the OP's discussion.
@@robertkattner1997 Oh, and no. No-one has broken the laws of physics (the law of conservation of energy specifically) to make an amplifier. It isn't a miracle it is science
@@robertkattner1997 4k isnt that much. My current build is 67k. I have 4 15k amps wired to .7 and 2 3k at 1ohm plus another 300x2. Ive also seen builds with over 100k in amps.
so you converted it to a sealed sub? how does it sound now? I converted a few PA subs and have a few videos on my channel about those. used the ultimax 18's also. they rock the house amazingly. hope your enjoying your new sub.
Nice, is there an 8 ohm version?
I'd never install something like this without being able to see the excursion later on😅
Awesome vid tho!
Just a suggestion! dont use the sub out from the HK,,use the full range signal pre out,,let the behringer xover handle complete full range input signal and then let its internal electronics provide you the LF and then you can play with what frequency you want it to roll over from your floor standers or whichever speaker you use it with.
OK! Up to around 5:24, That was a "DECENT" s18 in comparison to SOME I've witnessed(smile). Now at THIS point when he says OH BOY HERE WE GO! It's like CHRISTMAS! HAHAHA! I was in anticipation as to what I would be witnessing in the box (smile)
Just curious, did you wire the positive to the positive?
Did u have to upgrade your electrical at all
I use a beringer ultra curve pro which has a parametric equaliser to filter out the upper frequecies for my 2 12 inch sub woofers
Shy when you get rid of the Beringer trash and get some good equipment you will be shocked by the improvement.
choke chain behringer make decent stuff for the price. the ultradrive pro literally does everything and its pretty cheap compared to the rest /:
what break in demo was that ?
If those wires are silver, the higher gauge makes sense. I don't know if that is the case though.
A Dayton audio ultimax 18 inch subwoofer is a pa subwoofer that can be used as a car subwoofer as well as subwoofer for a dj system or a home theater system
The Ultimax subs are all home audio/theater and car audio drivers. Definitely not PA drivers. PA drivers generally have far less Xmax (throw) and are WAY more efficient. Dayton has a separate series of woofers meant for PA systems.
Great video! I'm thinking about using some of these in my new theater in infinite baffle. I'm trying to figure out a good way to isolate them to prevent transferring any energy from the frame into the wall. I'm thinking maybe suspend them on cables so they are floating. Then mount them to a baffle that would be soft mounted to the wall with a rubber surround. I'll need to do some experimenting to figure out the best option.
You can use a bed of fibreglass or Rockwall as a vibration isolator as they act like a spring. You can measure the k value by applying different weights and noting down the displacement. Use the mass-spring formula to calculate the resonance frequency of the system and you can add more weight to the subwoofer to lower the resonance frequency below the deepest note it reproduces to make sure it will operate in the vibration decoupling region.
Can it break a window at high volume
I find the best item for size comparrison iiis
A ruler or tape measure.
I want a pair of Stereo Integrity Ht-18 v3 's, if I can find boxes for them.
I don’t know if you have done this looking at your videos but can you show your home theater and explain each piece of it.
so how many litres is in that subwoofer box?
It seems like your sub would make an awesome full body massager.
Nice sub
The cone is nomex, which is glass fiber. Amazing material for any speaker. Super stiff!
Nice looking sub but for approximately $200-$300 more than your total cost, minus all the labor and time you've spent upgrading yours...there's always HSU Research. I have the VTF-15H MK2. Bought mine approx 3 years ago and the price hasn't changed still today. Let's just say, it's like Imax in my living room. Nice theater room and car audio by the way! I myself use to compete in TOW & IASCA back in the day.
how much u want for that old subwoofer im collecting classic speakers to make a home theatre out of em just for the old school feeling
the music for the sub install sounds like Knower.
I think that sub could definitely use some more air space, but cool video. That subwoofer looks like a monster
You are 100% correct. Some day I'll get around to building a massive bandpass box for it but it still rattles my fillings for now lol. Thanks for watching Robert!
@@Trialnerror Hey no problem! I've tried transmission line, sealed, and normal ported boxes before, but never a bandpass. Should be a lot of fun, and I'm sure you'll get that subwoofer kicking lower and louder. Your video was a pleasure to watch. Nicely edited, filmed.
You are correct, $325 isn't much in the grand scheme but... That's what I have invested in my sub, or subs... Four 12's.
Song in the background?
+Trial n’ Error If you are running a subwoofer in you run it in at it’s full potential because if you do not your spiders and Sorround will not loosen as it should at the potential of the mechanical movement of th spiders you will have soft spots and stif spots in the spiders resulting in response of the subwoofer this is with subwoofers with stiff or multiple layer spiders check out Sundown Audio NSv4 series and EMF Audio ermagerd v2 I like the Sundown E series for a budget build because the subwoofer will not bottom out and the take abuse of clean overpowering the e series is rated at 500w rms will I’m running them at 750 rms in a 6th order parallel band pass
Wait so how long are supposed to break in the subwoofer for? I mean I don't think most people are going to want to have a subwoofer burning in for 24 hours at maximum output, even free air I feel like that would be annoying as hell lol.
which music is used in the video, from 14:00 onwards?
SWEET!!!
We have bigger dude, 2 x 18 inch fane subs in one case specially modified to be more reinforced.
Driven by 1000 Watts plate amp.
NOW THAT IS HUGE !!!!
Those Fane's are something aren't they! I have some old school Colossus woofers I'm saving for a special music project.
That's a nice sub! Bang for buck it's a good deal.
Wow nice set up, if you size that box correctly per manufacturers specifications for that particular sub because they’re all different in their requirements.
Plus you have a lot of power loss in the length of your speaker wire when I seen that I cringed. The more WATTS you try to push the more losses you will have it’s a physics thing.
If somehow you could move the amps within a few feet of the subwoofer can you get the box air volume space correct you will have a unbelievably killer system and of course much bigger amplifiers.
That's what she said!
You should check out Fi car audio 18" subs this are intence
Why sealed box?
Is the ultimax 18 still alive?
Quick question if you were to plug 4 1000 watt pro audio amplifiers and 2 av receivers into one wall outlet that is on a 15 amp circuit breaker will the circuit breaker trip if so how can the circuit breaker not be tripped
Because it's not 1000watts at 120v. It's 1000watts at a much lower voltage, could be as low as 3v. You will often see a 1000watt amp that will only draw a couple hundred watts and that's after inefficiency's lost to heat and things like that. NOW, the opposite is true for car audio. Since that operates at 12v, the wattage draw will often be much higher. Same reason the ac power cord for your home amp looks like a vacuum cord but the positive cable to a 1000watt car amp looks like a giant snake. Hope that makes sense! Thanks for watching man!
Its huge
Do you have the specs on your box?
Would love to actually hear it.
The jumbo lead wires in the spider are already overkill, if they were heavier that's more mass- bad. Run your sub out from AVR directly into the RCA or XLR input of a Crown XLS 1502, set to .775 volt input, gain knobs down 4 clicks from max and you'll be set. You can shore up (brace) the joists holding the projector with a paid of 2x6's going to the other supports in the attic. That will stop the image from vibrating. If you can't use braces add a small platform on the joists right above the projector with 4 or 5 cinderblocks on it. Use a double yoga pad or sleeping bag foam pad mat so they don't vibrate.
I think people forget speakers run on relatively high voltage AC and thus don't need that thick of wire. I think people just see the huge power cable going to car audio amps and think speakers need big wires too.
Normally I'm against sticking high power speakers into small cabs for mainly these reasons:
1. That huge Xmax is just getting wasted by the small air volume.
2. No way to effectively dissipate the amount of heat generated by high powered speakers, more so when they're surrounded by all that stuffing.
3. You are losing bottom end in small sealed cabs, which you then compensate by adding more power, which in turn leads to more overheating.
But then again, I'm used to running my subs for hours on end during events and had some cooked nicely in sealed cabinets before. What do I know? You can get away with this in a home theater setup afaik, but definitely monitor.
Btw, I'm using a similar crossover, but you can use the signal straight from the LFE output on the receiver, it's already filtered. You should have the low pass frequency settings right in the receiver's menu. You only need a single input into channel 1 in bridged mono mode anyway ;)
Great sub. That crown however is another story.I have the cts1200 and it seems pretty weak to me. Nowhere near the claimed wattage. I upgraded to a behringer ep2500 and that made a world of difference!
@@Trialnerror Yea. It should be good. I am playing around with my behringer 2400 right now on 2-15s and it cracks me up. And the drywall.
Trial N' ERROR ua-cam.com/video/onAf2YbCJ8c/v-deo.html. Small taste of behringer 2400
So did you do the math to find out tuning freq and how much fill to use or did you just wing it?
Walmart socks, me too
question on the wiring: you took the LFE out from the receiver at 19:56 , and input it in to the behringer crossover.
then you took the low freq. output of the cross over to put itin to the amplifier.
now receivers already filter the LFE signal for the subwoofer, then why you needed to use a cross over to filer it down? I am trying to understand here , why it was needed. please respond.
thanks
@@Trialnerror Thanks a lot, could you please share the behringer cross over model? what benefit you got from 4 way cross over, while you needed to power only one sub?
thanks
You should have get some higher gage wires
Какой вес его? Динамика
why do you think it needs more horsepower?
What is the cu ft of the woofer box. You did it right, when you pushed in the cone it returned slowly as it should. I have a Crown xls2500 waiting.
Take that shiz amp back and get the straight “x” I had both night and day
great video ....im trying to decide between 2..15 inch dayton audio subs or 2 dayton audio ..18 subs ..
Either choice should rattle your teeth out of your head. That's a LOT of quality subwoofer!
@@Trialnerror ok glad to hear it thanks you
10awg to 18awg?
Ya subs are like cars and the UM18 is pretty decent at that price - if you want the next level up from this check out the Stereo Integrity HST-18 MKIII - Someday if you want to know what Ultra Low Frequency can sound like - go for the Stereo Integrity HST 24 in sub ...it's a game changer.
the tinsel leads are only meant for 500rms per coil. its good enough.
Fuckin sweet HT set up!
God!😱😱😱
BASSICKLY!
I'm kind of surprised the price you paid $300 for it 4 years ago has not changed that much. It's $339 at parts express. still not a bad price for an 18 inch sub. as far as powering it. you would have been better off with Crown XLS 1002 wired in bridge mode at 4 ohms. but I guess that's a personal preference.