How to build a subwoofer kit and install the Dayton Audio SPA1200DSP Amplifier
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- Опубліковано 21 січ 2016
- PURCHASE:
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PURCHASE THE COMPONENTS:
Denovo Audio Knock-Down MDF 4.0 cu. ft. Subwoofer Cabinet--------------------------------------
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Dayton Audio SPA1200DSP 1200W Subwoofer Amplifier with DSP--------------------------------
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Cabinet Dampening -------------------------------
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Spiked Feet------------------------------
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Acry-Tech Duratex-----------------------------------
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Gasket Tape-----------------------------------------
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Bar Clamps and Vices-------------------------------------
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All Speaker Kits----------------------------------
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All Ultimax Speakers---------------------------------
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DESCRIPTION:
Watch Chris put together the Denovo MDF Subwoofer Cabinet. A step by step instructional on all the questions you have about getting started building your own kit. Chris puts in the SPA1200DSP from Dayton Audio and the 18" Ultimax Subwoofer making a super powered, low-end machine! - Наука та технологія
Great video. The glue does absorb into the wood/MDF a bit, so I think Titebond works better when you apply glue to both sides of the wood first before putting them together. Also would add that it's very easy to clean up excess glue with a damp rag immediately after clamping.
Excellent video - clear, concise & informative - more, please!
A couple things about this build I really like. Using the router to cut the 45 degree angles around the edges instead of having the sharp 90 degree corners, not only looks much better, but it should also be less susceptible to getting those sharp edges all dinged up. I also like the look of the Duratek, which is also a very durable coating...
JUST ordered this entire kit, will report back with how well it works, etc. !!!
Can you send me the link where to buy everything as shown
I don't see your report :)
daymmms...!!.. wasmt expecting much from that amp to that woofer.. definalty worth for a subwoofer in a living room only one day i cN say
Is the 1200 watt dsp enough to turn it to max:)
Sry im a noob in this industry.
Can you plz help me, im thinking of buying it when get to stock again.
Great video.
Great job Chris!
Thanks Mike!
Excellent video, can you please share the sizes of the woodcuts ?
Tip for the inserts.
Install inserts before coating (counter sink hole for insert slightly, and use glue), use "sacrificial" screws installed in the inserts, coat, remove screws before coating dries.
this is no joke this amp is extremely powerful benched and got at least 1300 rms. for your home this will be enough bass unless you want to run a dancehall. Recommend sundown 15 inch or 18'' for effortless bass. Or budget get the dayton ultimax 18. One thing i like about this amp its like it doesn't even get hot its so warm u could leave your hands on it for days without it burning you.
How does this dayton ultimax 18 compare to sundown x18, both being driven at about 1000watts rms
Thanks for the video! Only thing I'd do different is wear a respirator when cutting/sanding MDF. It's bad stuff for the lungs.
+Jeff Ferguson absolutely!
+Jeff Ferguson Haha I was going to say the same thing when he pulled out the orbital sander. I guess it would make it hard to commentary though.
"mhrmr, hrmmrmrhr rmrhrmrhrmh...."
@@ColoradoStreaming He would sound like Chalie Brown's teacher...LOL!
beauty....nice job bud
I love subwoofer , if posible i would buy it for my room.
Great video but titebond 2 requires about 30 minutes to dry and 24 hours to cure. All assembly can be done in a afternoon and it can cure over night.
Nice build,but I suggest you use brass threaded inserts with brass machine screws...I used stainless steel threaded inserts and he head cap screws incredibly strong bite and makes mdf infinitely reusable....Dave Shultz video on brass better resonant characteristics has me excited to make the upgrade
Something I like better about the DA's smaller DSP amps (the 250 and 500) is PE has a mounting rack that mounts the amp on the outside of the enclosure. This serves a couple of purposes. One, the amp cools better because it's on the outside of the enclosure so it's getting more air flow, and two, there's no need to cut a hole in the back panel of the enclosure...PE needs to offer these mounting racks for their more powerful amps as well...
I would imagine the control is meant to go on the top of the sub while the amp goes in the back... Also, i'd recommend for a sub that big and heavy to use T nuts, so you're not using the MDF for holding it down but more or less clamp the driver to the MDF. I'm waiting for you guys to sell the recommended 7cu ft box (music) for this thing :D
Excellent suggestion on the T-nuts. I always use those for securing my subs into the enclosures. I just don't trust those wood screws threading into the MDF...
Why did you switch glue types on day two?
awesum video 👍
Woodworking tip for the front baffle glue up.
Add table salt to keep the panel from shifting around while clamping.
Don't think I have the patience for something like this but great job. I assume you guys don't sell these pre built? I could drop the sub in and amp but dont think I would feel comfortable building the actual box and doing the sanding.
DO you have a part number? I clinked on the link and all I see is Part # 300-7079 which is the one in the video being built. I don.t see any that are pre built in the link. Btw I bought those bass shakers and the sa230 amp. Thanks for the help on the other vids
Sorry, we actually don't offer that particular one prebuild like I thought. Since we offer free shipping that isn't a product we can mail :(
Amazing
Nice!!..
i have to ask about how much surface area does that one can cover? with a typical thin layering.
A quart size can of Duratex ( www.parts-express.com/acry-tech-duratex-black-1-quart-roller-grade-cabinet-texture-coating-kit-with-textured-3-r--260-111) will cover 20-24 square feet.
I used one full can on this enclosure, which measures 23"×20"×20.75" (around 19 square feet). I actually managed to get two good coats on the top and sides, just one on the bottom.
FYI unless I am mistaken, the link to this video appears ONLY on the 18" sub page, and not on the kit pages. You guys should link this video on all the kit pages since it is applicable to building all sizes of the sub kits.
Why would you want to build smaller? :/
@@Will3ist - easy ... two 15" subs instead of one 18" sub will actually smooth out in-room bass response. Use Audessey to optimize bass response.
@@Will3ist Good question that does have an answer (possibly more than one). In my case, I'm building the PE sealed enclosure for the 12" HO reference sub (with the 500 WRMS plate amp) because I'm using it to give my soundbar some bottom end. Now if I had a full surround system (5.1, 6.1, 7.1, etc), I would probably want a bigger sub, but with only a soundbar, an 18" would be too overpowering...even a 15" probably would be as well...
Can you post the part number of the screws you used for the build? I dont see them in the description. Also, are these screws preferred over the inserts I see people referring to?
Screws are optional but a good idea, buy Spax MDF screws from Lowes or Home Depot
Cutting The hole for the plate amp, is he not cutting into the support bracket? I plan on building the 15” version and can’t see how to use a plate amp without cutting the support brace. Has anyone done this without very bad side effects? Seems like a external amp as Z Reviews used is the only option.
You are good to cut into the support bracket. Once the amp is there, it will reinforce everything. You are all good!
Anywhere I can get a list of all the stuff I need to purchase besides the kit? Seems you need quite a bit more.. Thanks
The description of this video has most of the parts. save for maybe glue and or maybe some tools.
Great video. I'm looking at doing a couple of these with external amps. Do you have a video covering the binding posts & wiring for this? This would be my first build of anything electrical & carpentry since... It's been decades!
As you can imagine, these types of things will get very specific very quickly. If you have questions you can always get in contact with our technical specialist via phone, email, or live chat.
www.parts-express.com/contactus.aspx
Is there any benefit to using screws if you glue everything tightly?
Generally, No. Glue will hold pieces together and provide a seal. Nails and screws could only open up a possibility of problems in that system.
*After he realized nails and screws are not the best way to build enclosures* ua-cam.com/video/emHBrq_5CUw/v-deo.html
Which subwoofer you recommend 2ohms dual coil or 4 ohms dual coil then i wire it in series i am planning to build my own home subwoofer using spa2400 watts! Nice video ;)
If you wire two 4 ohm coils in series, it'll double to 8 ohm. If you need 2 ohms, you should wire the coils in parallel. The subwoofer you get, and the way you wire it, will depend on the requirements of the amp you buy.
@@OMGLYKEWOW They Dayton Audio amps (plate amps) are all only 4 ohm stable, as far as I know. To achieve a 4 ohm load there are several ways you can go...a DVC driver with 2 ohm VCs can be wired in series for a 4 ohm load, or you can use a single 4 ohm VC sub, or you can use a DVC sub with 4 ohm VCs and only connect to one VC, or you can used a DVC sub with 8 ohm VCs and wire them in parallel...
Please Parts express we Need an android app to control the subwoofer most of us dont use apple products. Please tell us when can we get android app
Do you have a sub and amp kit for the 15 ultimax?
We do not, but we do have one with just the enclosure and woofer allowing you to choose your own amp.
www.parts-express.com/--300-7097
You say two parts water one part glue before painting. What kind of glue is it? Maybe PE product number? Thanks a lot in advance
ua-cam.com/video/NcydtduDNec/v-deo.html&t=105
Titebond - no part number
@@PartsExpressOfficial Any yellow wood glue will work just fine...
weird...I'm sure the video does not replicate the actual movement of the speaker...but it seams to move from, top to bottom , before moving as a whole to out or in ...cool vid.
+Psycho Kill yeah, cameras have a hard time picking up motion at that speed. glad you liked it!
It's a rolling shutter effect
Why not cut the hole for the amp before you glue it together? seems like it would be tricky to get the saw dust out of the inside when its put together
+bassblaster505 Gaming nah, dont forget there is a huge hole for the actual speaker. its not bad at all...plus it kinda builds a natural table. you dont have to hold anything down.
I have a question. Can i glue the two baffles together first and then glue the box together?
@@LongIslandicedteaaa no.
@@DiMoraDiamond why not?
Sherikan Niyaziev it will not align correctly with the finished box and the glue will shoot out the edges. Is it possible? Sure, you could make it happen if you measure everything precisely with calipers and clean up all extra glue, but why? Just build it bottom up the way it was designed to be built.
Is this a home theater type sub or P.A. type sub?
Ideally, this would be a home theater sub considering Pro Audio gear is built a little differently.
3:25 bracing is in the air...
So no gasket between the woofer and baffle?? there will def be an air leak there (interfacing two materials with drastically different stiffness).
The driver already has a gasket.
@@PartsExpressOfficial from the video there doesn't look to be any gasket, the driver's metal frame right onto the wood baffle and you can hear it when he drops it in (hard on hard). But yeah, i do realize this is "casual" DIY (no gaskets on the amp block etc either).
@@gregd6022 If you are only looking at the driver itself, there is no gasket as this was a sample unit for our company so we placed down material at 12:23 to resolve any future air leak issues. That being said, every Ultimax driver you would buy from our site has the gasket already pre-installed on the product. This also stands for the amp as well. This enclosure was sealed as well as any other professionally finished product on the market.
@@PartsExpressOfficial Ah ok , now that makes more sense.
@@gregd6022 I just bought one of their 12" HO reference series subs and it has a rubber gasket...
Fajny pierdzioszek kto taki szit kupuję bass z tego przypomina defekacje przy jelituwce
I want to put one of these in my trunk so bad. I have 1200 watts rms at 1 ohm to work with so it would be perfect. BUT WILL IT FIT? I have a camry sedan. My gut is saying it will. My gut is not always right
Subwoofer hitting that amplifier plate? fan cooled amp in a sealed box?. I would rather recomend to put that amp module away from the box, or in a separate chamber attached to the main sub box. Otherways, you´ll be punishing that amp plate so bad
Thanks you for your concern.
This plate amplifier is designed specifically to be mounted inside a subwoofer enclosure (it's built to take the punishment). Every part is securely attached to the circuit boards, larger parts (caps, transformers, relays, etc.) have been reinforced with glue. In addition, every component that passes through the mounting plate (plugs, jacks, switches, etc.) is sealed with glue or isolated from the inside of the enclosure, including the control panel.
As far as the fan goes, this amplifier is extremely efficient therefore is produces very little heat. In cases of extreme output levels the fan will turn on to move some air across the heat sink, but not much airflow is required to keep it cool. As long as airflow is not directly blocked then the fan will have no problem keeping the amp cool, even inside the enclosure (unless it is in an extremely small enclosure), wood doesn't conduct heat very well but it will wick away just enough to keep the temperature inside the enclosure from skyrocketing.
Mounting the amplifier in a separate enclosure is definitely an option, but not necessary. A separate enclosure can actually work very well since you can mount the control panel on the front and the amp itself on the top or back for a very clean look with only the LCD control panel showing. This is a great way to go in situations where you are powering separate subs with a single amplifier.
It's a digital amp plus most HT and even music bass is intermittent, so amp doesn't really dissipate that much heat in most cases. If using in sound reinforcement then probably need an external amp like the big Crown XLS-2500
Is for a dj? or car ?
Anything you want but Home Theater would be good.
Love how the Home audio guys call it Cabinet and not Box LOL
Actually, most audiophiles call it an "enclosure".
Then I don't know what I am because I call it an enclosure...
Is it recommended to use only glue?
as opposed to nails and screws? the glue will give it a sealed hold and will be plenty to keep the enclosure together. Especially with MDF.
Oregon 08 i
Oregon 08 Aq
Screws are not needed. TiteBond is amazing stuff. Screws will eventually protrude and ruin your nice looking finish.
ok amp is fan cooled but the fan is inside the enclosure..... :/ :/
Yes, putting a cooling fan in a small sealed box seemed weird to me too. I mounted the plate amp in an mdf shipping box I had laying around from a different woofer and added some vents and banana plug speaker terminals to connect the amp to the sub in the sealed box.
That enclosure is surely far too small for that monstrous sub. Mine is in a foam filled 7.5 cubic foot box and I feel even bigger would suit better
It's not. I have three of them. 4 Cubic feet works great. Adding Acousta-Stuff (4 pounds) makes the box seem like it's 27% larger in a big box such as this...which equates to an equivalent 5.08 cubic foot box. If you are using this rule of thumb...in a smaller box...like a 1.4 cubic foot box...the effect is greater (36%).
There's one thing that I absolutely hate... That I live in Estonia and the shipping from parts Express is over a hundred dollars...
2:29 split mdf on left side...
Corner band clamps. One night.
Good video but not sure I get this...
1. You have a Plate amplifier with a fan installed on a non ported... sealed box... how does it cool itself down when there is NO access to air other than whats in the box! once that heats up you will cook this amp!
2. The amp is ONLY efficient with access to fresh air... hence why they have a fan on it... otherwise the more it heats up it will become inefficient... electronics 101 heat kills lol. Would be better to install it on a ported sub box possibly.
3. You cut the internal support braces for the box when you cut out the hole for the Plate amplifier... are you supposed to do that ?!
This is a good point, which is why I decided to mount my SPA500DSP on the PE amp rack which mounts on the outside of the enclosure...
No speaker Cover?
that is what I was thinking I'd like to fit a steel grill to the front
@@mrfucn187 I'm installing a bar type grill on mine...a grill is a must!
No poort?
Sealed enclosures don't have ports...
Cool build, nice finished product.
Now, I may have some experience building cabs, but 7 days to build a simple pre-cut, pre-fitted sub is a bit excessive. It should realistically take one day for gluing, another one for finishing / filling / painting and a third for installing the driver and plate amp, maybe 2-3 hours per day. This is pretty simple stuff. :)
Correct. It took that long because of scheduling with multiple parties. Better to say "Day 7" than ignore clothes changing. Since then we try to wear uniforms for continuity. Good peek behind the curtain though! :)
It's better to let the glue dry between the steps to keep the box square. Sure, it could be done in one day, as good quality wood glue sets up quickly, but it is rock-solid after 24 hours. Over the course of several days you only need to go to your project for 30 minutes a day or so. On a sub project like this where you want everything just-right, patience wins over hurrying.
You should mention the total cost of this project so people can compare this kit to a pre-made sub. Also, the cabinet finish may not register high with the wife. One last comment - think about the resale value of this kit compared to a factory made sub. I don't know but I'm guessing a name brand pre-made sub has a higher resale value.
this is more of a kit that we sell on our website than a custom project. www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-18-ultimax-subwoofer-with-spa1200dsp-amplifier-and-cabinet-package--300-7200
However you can make it as custom as you like this way. (as opposed to a pre-made sub)
I doubt resale value is a priority for any sub company. Personally, I would never buy a used sub. You have no idea how much they've been abused. Also, subs are fairly easy to hide...mine will be behind my TV stand, completely out of site...
This is why you pay a speaker company lots of money ABOVE parts cost; I have neither an equipped wood shop nor the technical ability to do this.
These enclosures are precision cut which makes them easy to assemble, even for the layman.
Anybody own an SVS or HSU sub and built one of these? I like the idea and all but at $900 plus time to build is it really gonna be comparable to my 2- PC-13 Ultras? Yea I understand I would have saved a decent amount of money but those are absolutely premium subs and a fairly cheap cost already for what you are getting. Plus if the amp goes bad or whatever they are know for their customer service. Meanwhile if the DIY project has an issue a couple years down the road you are the one paying for the replacement out of pocket. SVS even has their upgrade option if you choose. Cool nonetheless, just would like to hear in person.
I believe the theory behind it is to directly compete with those manufacturers, i always thought of it as a "poor mans svs". i personally havent heard it but i have read great things.
@@justinMacPhee This thing competes very nicely with anything from SVS or Hsu. I run two of them and am building #3 right now. Bass is all about moving air. This thing has a 22mm X-Max which is very large for an 18" diameter sub. With this enclosure and lots of power, it hits amazingly low and yet remains tight and accurate. I power mine with Crown XLS2502's bridged to mono (2400 watts). Don't worry about max power ratings...it is clipping and distortion that kill speakers. Good, clean power keeps big subs like this happy....plus you never give them a constant thousand-watt plus constant power feed unless you are playing some silly bass test track. A well built sub has "self-cooling"...as it is stroking back and forth it is sucking air through the voice coils to cool itself. The SVS SB16Ultra is 2" smaller in diameter, but it makes up for that by having a larger XMax vs. the UltiMax lineup (SVS claims 65MM - which is 2.56" and absolutely amazing) but subwoofers also need to stay linear in their pistonic movement to sound their best. A 22MM XMAX keeps the UltiMax 18 very linear and it still moves lots of air due to its large diameter. With that said, the SVS is very pretty and comes ready-to run, so it is a great (more expensive) choice for someone who does not want to DIY. Google "Full Marty" and see what these things can do in an even bigger enclosure.
The good thing about DA subs and amps is they are backed with a 5 year warranty. HSU and SVS only warrants their amps for 2 years...I don't know how long they warrant their subs...
subwoofer gehäuse 18 zoll pride t18 v3 ich brauhe gehäuse
Good Work GREAT Job Watch Baby Step Records ARTIST BOBIRDIE Video Freedom Of Speech
I enjoy chicken sandwiches
why you put acoustic foams???this is SUBWOOFER no satellite speaker!!!!
Using acoustic batting or damping material increases the apparent volume of the enclosure to the driver, by trapping air and holding it in the fibers. You can increase the apparent volume of the enclosure by up to 20% by using a large amount of densely packed stuffing; the amount used in the video probably only impacts apparent enclosure volume by about 5%, but it is still helpful to improve bass character because it adjusts the acoustical damping of the system. If foam is used, it has almost no effect on enclosure damping at low frequencies.
***** its not necessary use the foam in sub......without foam its more loud.....
Not foam ...'stuffing' or 'batting' in this sub. Or Acusta-Stuf in this case I believe.
Not only makes the sub 'smoother' sounding, which is a plus for music, but helps the transducer 'see' the enclosure as larger than it actually is..
Overall, it's definitely a benefit, trust that.
I agree with you. What most people who think subwoofers should be stuffed like normal speakers fail to remember is that bass soundwaves are looooooong. Sub-bass starts around 90hz (which is pretty high) and it's over 12 ft long. Get down to 20hz and your soundwave is over 55 feet long! There is no physical way that some fill inside a typical size cabinet is going to affect a sound wave that is anywhere from 85% to 97% OUTSIDE of the cabinet. At least not in any way that is even remotely audible to the human ear. The only advantage to putting in fill is to possibly stop your cables from rattling against the inside of your box.
Polyester fiberfill or Acousta-stuff increases the apparent volume of the sub box to the driver. The rule of thumb is 1 pound per cubic foot of sub box volume. This is common in all speaker enclosures (using either pink fiberglass or polyester fiberfill in subs); do some Googling on the topic and you will gain a better understanding. It also kills standing waves and improves resonance response (deadens the box).
As soon as he said MDF I stopped watching.
Nice but no profeshunal
woollverin israel - What would you do differently?
**professional