I Tip: After seating the tire look around the rim on both sides. There is a little ridge on the tire, make sure the ridge is the same height away from the rim all the way around the tire. Also if you use guerilla tape and you stretch electrical tape over the center channel first it will leave less adhesive residue that has to be cleaned when you change the tape.
I made already around 10-12 paars of tubless wheels (mtb/gravel, with and without cushcores) already for my bikes and for freind's ones. Some may say i'm overzealous with that but i noticed 0 problems with wheels i made. There's couple of pro tips i've learned: - clean inside of your tires before with soap water. After that spray a bit of soap water inside of tire (it's helping with 1st dry-pumping) - clean your rim with disc cleaner (for example) before taping. Tape will be placed in the strongest/best way then. - if you want to be sure that tape will be placed in the best way use hair dryer during that.(it helps if someone is warming pieces of tape while sticking it by you, but it's also doable without 2nd person). After taping warm a bit more around and pressure it around with clean cloth.) - warming tire (with hair dryer for example) just before putting in helps with more aggressive, harder sides tires especially if you're using cushcore. - tape should be at least same width as inside measurement of the rim but i recomment 2mm wider. - (important) most of tires have like 1cm trough, both sides outside of the tire. If found that it helps (a lot!) if you put just a bit of sealant around (bot sides) with brush (into this lithe trough). Then 1st dry-pumping is coming without any problems and in the end less pressure is coming out with time. Recomending to do it always guys. I'm also using a bit of sealant for valve (seal inside of rim). - if ur not able to 1st dry-pump (air is going off around 1 bar and its max). Try to flex the tire both sides around and air it again, it helps usually. - i'm fan of puting sealant with sealant syringe (the order is: 1st dry-pumping for like 3,5 bars,tire will pop after around 2-2,5 bars, keep it for 10 min. If you dont hear any air going out ur good to take valve core off and put the sealant there, wet-puping is ez then) - little compressor works the best, way better than smaller hand-pump. CO2 bullet works good as well (for the 1st-dry pumping). - 1st wet-pumping should be around max doable pressure (look at the tire whats max). Leave it for day or two like that, then make your pressure. That helps a lot. - for new wheel use 20-30 ml more sealant that recommended. - After 1 st wet-pumping take a bit of time to wipe the wheel multiple ways to make sealant go around all the wheel in the good way - make it 2-3 times during 1st day (with high pressure). - if some of you struggling with puting in the last piece of tire with cushcore insert (or others). It may be hard some times, with DH casing especcialy. Ask someone to help - add two more tire spoons, start plugging one side while the other person is keeping the other side in the same place. Way easier if ur not experienced with that. - Peaty's black ending piece of tape is to cover end-edge connection of normal tape - not under the valve like in the video ;) I'm very precise with this kind of things but well, it's working so i'm glad if i helped some of you ;) btw. that's fact that Peaty's tape and valves are very good, i using almost only those. But im fan of Stans sealant (standard one, not recommending race ver.)
@@FIGHTTHECABLEhey bro, there's couple of ways, first of all its good to warm/dry inside old sealant in a good way. Then there's couple of tools you can use - piece of harsh piece of rubber (for example piece of old gravle tire) to scratch it off. Sometimes you can get working gloves in the hardware store covered by harsh/firm rubber/plastic those works as well. There's also little yellow piece of rubber available in hardware store called belt buddies, or havy duty eraser this little piece works also good to scratch this off.
@@FIGHTTHECABLE it is indeed, i tried it as well but its too grainy and drying very fast. I even claimed that in the shop over the warranty and the feedback was that's for purpos, and it should cover just races in a good way so it's not for long term casual riding. It makes no sense for me then. Standard Stans sealant is way better i think, peaty's is good as well. But that's just my opinion ofc.
One thing I do before putting the wheel back on the bike is to turn the wheel all around to get sealant all over the insides, especially with running inserts. Had several go flat overnight before I started doing this. I also run the tire pressure up near max for a couple of days so the tire stretches out fully and gets the sealant in all the little places.
Excellent video, clear and easy to follow. With one of my bikes I've gone over to Reserve Fillmore valves. Really pleased with their off road performance, easy to check air pressure and so far have never clogged with sealant. They make the sealing of the tyre against the rim a tubeless doddle, their extra air flow ensures tyre bead sealing 100% successful using my standard track pump (Schwalbe Wicked Will tyres) Only downside is that you can't check or fill the tyre sealant via the valve.
In Albuquerque, New Mexico, (2014) I ended up using a suggested combo of tube with the sealant -only about 2oz - in the tubes to fight off the thorns below a certain altitude. Worked so good I still do that on my XC bikes and only 1 flat since (from a nail that went though side and tread somehow). That is running in low 20's for psi with a 200lb rider using light XC tires/tubes. When I've changed worn out tires, I find little nicks where the sealant did its job. Doesn't dry out like in my other bikes with normal tubeless setup.
Should stick it in hacks & bodges really but I've had great success using a modified weedsprayer as a ghetto tyre inflator. That thing dumps 30psi in about two seconds. Must be loads of us would love a compressor for this job but just can't justify one.
That's one of the reasons that I'm sticking with inner tubes and I put Stan's sealant inside the inner tube after removing the valve core then put the valve core back inside
Some tires come with a lot of separating agent on them from manufacturing and should be washed out and let dry before the first use. I had one where the sealant could not adhere to the sidewall and the air was leaking out through the whole sidewall.
Me...1 wrap of tape, pop the valve in and tyre on, pour 120ml of sealant in, pump up with mini compressor to 50 psi. Fit wheels to upside down bike. Spin wheels. Set desired tyre pressure just before your next ride. Job done.
On the questions video I watched before this one, the boys mentioned changing sealant every 6 months. What's the process for this? Does the old sealant need to be cleaned out?
I made the switch last year, and I wont ever go back! Btw: a stainless steel 1/8th cup measuring cup makes an excellent low cost goop-scraper once you need to clean out your tires
After a while, should I just add some more sealent or should I clean the wheel from dried remaints of the first portion? And if I need to clean the the wheel is there any tyre-safe solvents to help get rid of dried sealent?
You can just add sealant every 3-4 months. Use a thin wire or zip tie down the stem to measure how much is in there, or just shake the tire and you'll hear any sealant. No need to clean it up, just wipe the rip with rubbing alcohol between tire swaps.
I do a layer of tubeless tape, a layer of electrical tape and finally another layer of tubeless tape. Also use my co2 cartridges to seat the beads since sometimes the pump method doesn’t work for me 😅
@@gmbntech Saw this trick on @Syd Fixes Bikes and it’s to prevent whatever air bubbles might be under the first layer of rim tape. Sometimes hard to get all air pockets out and the electrical tape fixes that. Works amazing for me and I’ve never had any leaks or anything. Sure it adds a few grams but is a MTB the thing is already a few kgs 😂
Yes. Use a heat gun while spinning rim on a wheel stand to heat up and then mount heat gun to keep the rim warm in front of your tape as your taping the rim. Obviously you don’t need to get the rim hot, just nice and warm to the touch is enough to help the tape adhere best
Question, I have ethirteen rim which is off set and struggling keep air in on a ride , can't work out if it's leaking from the Valve or into the rim ,any ideas.
Pump the tyre up and spray some soapy water on the tyre and rim. Wherever the air is leaking from should form lots of bubbles. Let us know where the leak is and we can help you further! 🤙
I love the tubeless fat bike and gravel bike tires but I don't find it worth it for road bikes especially with TPU tubes. On the fat bike it saves about 1.5 pounds per wheel, the tubes for that thing are huge
I absolutely hate fitting tubeless tyres that won’t seat on the bead. Hours wasted using shot blasters, washing up liquid, using and inner tube to seat one side first. It’s agonising.
Sometimes it's not meant to be! If you have a bike shop nearby they might be kind enough to use the compressor on it for free, not always guaranteed but worth an ask. 🙌
That Peaty's rim tape is useless in my opinion. Its adhesion properties are similar to a masking tape. Never got it to stick to my rims, doesn't matter how well I cleaned them before. Now I am testing the Newmen silicon rubber tubeless rim strip and so far I am very happy with it. The pressure loss over time is much smaller and they claim it is reusable as it doesn't relay on any glue.
Cushcore and other inserts are ridiculously expensive for what they are. I know I know, "but the technology...!" Whatever. $150 for a couple pieces of over-engineered foam rubber is stupid.
Ive been a mtb'r for decades and still use Tubes...All that mess and cleaning you have to do with sealant...no thanks...I use a 'kevlar' style strip inside my tires ,and apart from a massive thorn going through the side of my tire, I haven't had a puncture in years....Ha !
Outside of not being able bodied, I have no idea how people make such a huge mess setting up tubeless. Infact, I worked with a teenage mechanic with one arm that had a very small hand with fingers he couldn't use. He took about twice as long as I did setting up a wheel tubeless but he never made a mess.
Well it's really not that bad, idk what mess people are freaking about but I use a big syringe to inject the sealant, for cleaning you just wipe the rim with a rag ... It's really not that bad. I still run tubes in my Brodie steel hardtail because I don't use it often, that's where tubeless can suck, when you leave it to dry, apart from that I'm fully satisfied with the tubeless setups I have...
you make it sound like peatys are the pioneers of tubeless but its all a blatant rip off of muc-off. I've never needed to use multiple layers of tape and never had a problem. did some arc30's a couple of weeks ago which seating caused a little issue but very soapy water sorted the problem in minutes. will never use tubes again!
I'm sorry, but if you're putting rim tape on and DON'T know how many layers you're using, perhaps you shouldn't be doing it in the 1st place..Go back to school and learn some maths...Ha !
@@TooMuchBike i think he did that to show what people might need to do in the common situation where you have the wrong width. Also tubeless tape is expensive, and you can get cheap alternatives like TESA 4289, but they are often not offered in conventional rim widths.
I feel like if we're still making videos at this point about tubeless that we should also be having videos about Rim brakes and two by drivetrains not hating on the video it just seems like old business at this point
I'll just use tubes, hassle free, and easy to use. I'm not gonna go out and buy all this extra stuff when I already have tubes and patches. Just because big MTB/ fanboys use tubeless doesn't mean it's a thing for everyone
Do you have your bike setup tubeless? What are your thoughts on tubeless tyres? Please share in the comments below! 👇
I
Tip: After seating the tire look around the rim on both sides. There is a little ridge on the tire, make sure the ridge is the same height away from the rim all the way around the tire. Also if you use guerilla tape and you stretch electrical tape over the center channel first it will leave less adhesive residue that has to be cleaned when you change the tape.
I made already around 10-12 paars of tubless wheels (mtb/gravel, with and without cushcores) already for my bikes and for freind's ones.
Some may say i'm overzealous with that but i noticed 0 problems with wheels i made.
There's couple of pro tips i've learned:
- clean inside of your tires before with soap water. After that spray a bit of soap water inside of tire (it's helping with 1st dry-pumping)
- clean your rim with disc cleaner (for example) before taping. Tape will be placed in the strongest/best way then.
- if you want to be sure that tape will be placed in the best way use hair dryer during that.(it helps if someone is warming pieces of tape while sticking it by you, but it's also doable without 2nd person). After taping warm a bit more around and pressure it around with clean cloth.)
- warming tire (with hair dryer for example) just before putting in helps with more aggressive, harder sides tires especially if you're using cushcore.
- tape should be at least same width as inside measurement of the rim but i recomment 2mm wider.
- (important) most of tires have like 1cm trough, both sides outside of the tire. If found that it helps (a lot!) if you put just a bit of sealant around (bot sides) with brush (into this lithe trough). Then 1st dry-pumping is coming without any problems and in the end less pressure is coming out with time. Recomending to do it always guys. I'm also using a bit of sealant for valve (seal inside of rim).
- if ur not able to 1st dry-pump (air is going off around 1 bar and its max). Try to flex the tire both sides around and air it again, it helps usually.
- i'm fan of puting sealant with sealant syringe (the order is: 1st dry-pumping for like 3,5 bars,tire will pop after around 2-2,5 bars, keep it for 10 min. If you dont hear any air going out ur good to take valve core off and put the sealant there, wet-puping is ez then)
- little compressor works the best, way better than smaller hand-pump. CO2 bullet works good as well (for the 1st-dry pumping).
- 1st wet-pumping should be around max doable pressure (look at the tire whats max). Leave it for day or two like that, then make your pressure. That helps a lot.
- for new wheel use 20-30 ml more sealant that recommended.
- After 1 st wet-pumping take a bit of time to wipe the wheel multiple ways to make sealant go around all the wheel in the good way - make it 2-3 times during 1st day (with high pressure).
- if some of you struggling with puting in the last piece of tire with cushcore insert (or others). It may be hard some times, with DH casing especcialy. Ask someone to help - add two more tire spoons, start plugging one side while the other person is keeping the other side in the same place. Way easier if ur not experienced with that.
- Peaty's black ending piece of tape is to cover end-edge connection of normal tape - not under the valve like in the video ;)
I'm very precise with this kind of things but well, it's working so i'm glad if i helped some of you ;)
btw. that's fact that Peaty's tape and valves are very good, i using almost only those. But im fan of Stans sealant (standard one, not recommending race ver.)
Hey maybe you can also explain how to get rid of the old dried sealant in the tyre? I have tyres full of rubber crap that I cannot remove.
@@FIGHTTHECABLEhey bro, there's couple of ways, first of all its good to warm/dry inside old sealant in a good way. Then there's couple of tools you can use - piece of harsh piece of rubber (for example piece of old gravle tire) to scratch it off. Sometimes you can get working gloves in the hardware store covered by harsh/firm rubber/plastic those works as well. There's also little yellow piece of rubber available in hardware store called belt buddies, or havy duty eraser this little piece works also good to scratch this off.
Okay, I'll try. I use Stans np tubes race sealant. It's nasty as hell.
@@FIGHTTHECABLE it is indeed, i tried it as well but its too grainy and drying very fast. I even claimed that in the shop over the warranty and the feedback was that's for purpos, and it should cover just races in a good way so it's not for long term casual riding. It makes no sense for me then. Standard Stans sealant is way better i think, peaty's is good as well. But that's just my opinion ofc.
Useful video, was just about to start looking into setup tubeless for my new bike
One thing I do before putting the wheel back on the bike is to turn the wheel all around to get sealant all over the insides, especially with running inserts. Had several go flat overnight before I started doing this. I also run the tire pressure up near max for a couple of days so the tire stretches out fully and gets the sealant in all the little places.
Excellent video, clear and easy to follow.
With one of my bikes I've gone over to Reserve Fillmore valves.
Really pleased with their off road performance, easy to check air pressure and so far have never clogged with sealant.
They make the sealing of the tyre against the rim a tubeless doddle, their extra air flow ensures tyre bead sealing 100% successful using my standard track pump (Schwalbe Wicked Will tyres) Only downside is that you can't check or fill the tyre sealant via the valve.
I bought a little compressor, so much easier and it’s also useful for drying off my bike after washing it!👍🏻
Same here. Life is too short to mess around with stubborn tires.
because the rim tape is stretched I used a hairdryer to very slightly warm the tape up to allow it to form itself to the profile works a treatment
That's a really good idea. Thanks!
In Albuquerque, New Mexico, (2014) I ended up using a suggested combo of tube with the sealant -only about 2oz - in the tubes to fight off the thorns below a certain altitude. Worked so good I still do that on my XC bikes and only 1 flat since (from a nail that went though side and tread somehow). That is running in low 20's for psi with a 200lb rider using light XC tires/tubes. When I've changed worn out tires, I find little nicks where the sealant did its job. Doesn't dry out like in my other bikes with normal tubeless setup.
Should stick it in hacks & bodges really but I've had great success using a modified weedsprayer as a ghetto tyre inflator. That thing dumps 30psi in about two seconds. Must be loads of us would love a compressor for this job but just can't justify one.
That's one of the reasons that I'm sticking with inner tubes and I put Stan's sealant inside the inner tube after removing the valve core then put the valve core back inside
Send it in! 👉 upload.gmbn.com
Air compressor! Really helpful
A radical DH ride is always how I break in and test my sealant just as you showed.:P
Thanks Owen, great video!
Inner tube sealant for me every time. 15,000 miles without a puncture to date👍👍👍
Great video 🤘
Thanks!
Some tires come with a lot of separating agent on them from manufacturing and should be washed out and let dry before the first use. I had one where the sealant could not adhere to the sidewall and the air was leaking out through the whole sidewall.
Me...1 wrap of tape, pop the valve in and tyre on, pour 120ml of sealant in, pump up with mini compressor to 50 psi. Fit wheels to upside down bike. Spin wheels. Set desired tyre pressure just before your next ride. Job done.
Nice and simple 🤘
10:22 "Between the hard object and your rim". PMSL.
What about butyl rubber for the rim? It is much better sealant than any kind of tape.
I believe i have drank the kool-aid. Tubeless is soo cool!! Lol
always looks so easy when pros do it. the reality is different🙈😂
look at my tips in the comments, its just matter of experience, trust me just try ;)
On the questions video I watched before this one, the boys mentioned changing sealant every 6 months. What's the process for this? Does the old sealant need to be cleaned out?
I made the switch last year, and I wont ever go back!
Btw: a stainless steel 1/8th cup measuring cup makes an excellent low cost goop-scraper once you need to clean out your tires
After a while, should I just add some more sealent or should I clean the wheel from dried remaints of the first portion?
And if I need to clean the the wheel is there any tyre-safe solvents to help get rid of dried sealent?
You can just add sealant every 3-4 months. Use a thin wire or zip tie down the stem to measure how much is in there, or just shake the tire and you'll hear any sealant. No need to clean it up, just wipe the rip with rubbing alcohol between tire swaps.
I use a cheapo £5 garden sprayer to mount the tyre - not ideal, but massively cheaper than a compressor
Whenever I have a stubborn tire, I use rubbing alcohol to wet the tire bead so the tire will slide into place very easily.
Try Silicone based grease
Soapy water will work just as well! Plus you will see bubbles if it hasn't seated correctly 🫧
Does it really make a difference to avoid flats ? Ive never rode tubeless my mtb is ready to im just not sure?
I do a layer of tubeless tape, a layer of electrical tape and finally another layer of tubeless tape. Also use my co2 cartridges to seat the beads since sometimes the pump method doesn’t work for me 😅
Interesting 🤔 What's the purpose of the layer of electric tape?
@@gmbntech Saw this trick on @Syd Fixes Bikes and it’s to prevent whatever air bubbles might be under the first layer of rim tape. Sometimes hard to get all air pockets out and the electrical tape fixes that. Works amazing for me and I’ve never had any leaks or anything. Sure it adds a few grams but is a MTB the thing is already a few kgs 😂
Is it ok to heat up the rim before taping it?
Yes. Use a heat gun while spinning rim on a wheel stand to heat up and then mount heat gun to keep the rim warm in front of your tape as your taping the rim. Obviously you don’t need to get the rim hot, just nice and warm to the touch is enough to help the tape adhere best
@@ryansantiago941
Thx
Yes heat will help with adhesive. But be careful when using a heat gun! Especially around carbon 🔥
Question, I have ethirteen rim which is off set and struggling keep air in on a ride , can't work out if it's leaking from the Valve or into the rim ,any ideas.
Pump the tyre up and spray some soapy water on the tyre and rim. Wherever the air is leaking from should form lots of bubbles. Let us know where the leak is and we can help you further! 🤙
I love the tubeless fat bike and gravel bike tires but I don't find it worth it for road bikes especially with TPU tubes. On the fat bike it saves about 1.5 pounds per wheel, the tubes for that thing are huge
You must go through lots sealant though?
I absolutely hate fitting tubeless tyres that won’t seat on the bead. Hours wasted using shot blasters, washing up liquid, using and inner tube to seat one side first. It’s agonising.
Sometimes it's not meant to be! If you have a bike shop nearby they might be kind enough to use the compressor on it for free, not always guaranteed but worth an ask. 🙌
That Peaty's rim tape is useless in my opinion. Its adhesion properties are similar to a masking tape. Never got it to stick to my rims, doesn't matter how well I cleaned them before. Now I am testing the Newmen silicon rubber tubeless rim strip and so far I am very happy with it. The pressure loss over time is much smaller and they claim it is reusable as it doesn't relay on any glue.
Why you gotta violate the sealant like that?
Are different sealants compatible? Can sealant be topped up with a different brand?
It's best to check with the brand, they will usually state if their sealant can be used with other brands!
Cushcore and other inserts are ridiculously expensive for what they are. I know I know, "but the technology...!" Whatever. $150 for a couple pieces of over-engineered foam rubber is stupid.
Right. I would try a pool noodle first😅
Is Flextape ok ? 😅
We wouldn't recommend it! The price of rim tape will be around the same so you might as well use the tool thats designed for the job. 🤘
Where is doddy?
Doddy works at Mondraker bikes now. He's done a few videos advertising their brand.
Inserts are air tokens
Ive been a mtb'r for decades and still use Tubes...All that mess and cleaning you have to do with sealant...no thanks...I use a 'kevlar' style strip inside my tires ,and apart from a massive thorn going through the side of my tire, I haven't had a puncture in years....Ha !
I use the Kevlar strip around the inside of my road bike tires works a treat
But use tubeless with inserts on my mtb
TPU tubes are amazing
Outside of not being able bodied, I have no idea how people make such a huge mess setting up tubeless. Infact, I worked with a teenage mechanic with one arm that had a very small hand with fingers he couldn't use. He took about twice as long as I did setting up a wheel tubeless but he never made a mess.
Well it's really not that bad, idk what mess people are freaking about but I use a big syringe to inject the sealant, for cleaning you just wipe the rim with a rag ... It's really not that bad.
I still run tubes in my Brodie steel hardtail because I don't use it often, that's where tubeless can suck, when you leave it to dry, apart from that I'm fully satisfied with the tubeless setups I have...
I am usually good with one wet wipe when I do tubeless. What mess are yountalking about?
you make it sound like peatys are the pioneers of tubeless but its all a blatant rip off of muc-off. I've never needed to use multiple layers of tape and never had a problem. did some arc30's a couple of weeks ago which seating caused a little issue but very soapy water sorted the problem in minutes. will never use tubes again!
Nowadays they recycle content. How about they start engaging in topics like cycling in different continents etc. theres so much to explore
I'm sorry, but if you're putting rim tape on and DON'T know how many layers you're using, perhaps you shouldn't be doing it in the 1st place..Go back to school and learn some maths...Ha !
I agree lol that part was obviously a peaty’s ad
I love their sealant though, it’s great
It also helps to use the proper width tape. This video does not use the proper width, which forces him to overlap to cover both halves of the rim.
they should have used the title "22 minute peaty's ad" lol@@FOTB407
@@TooMuchBike i think he did that to show what people might need to do in the common situation where you have the wrong width. Also tubeless tape is expensive, and you can get cheap alternatives like TESA 4289, but they are often not offered in conventional rim widths.
Do not do it, you will regret... I did and it was just headache... The inner fulling dry in 2 or 3 months, get hard and it is a mess...
I feel like if we're still making videos at this point about tubeless that we should also be having videos about Rim brakes and two by drivetrains not hating on the video it just seems like old business at this point
Fuck tubeless, it’s only for UA-camrs and tick-tockers
Cut your nails.
Why? They're useful to a mechanic!
I'll just use tubes, hassle free, and easy to use. I'm not gonna go out and buy all this extra stuff when I already have tubes and patches. Just because big MTB/ fanboys use tubeless doesn't mean it's a thing for everyone