MRP is the BEST paint I have ever used, PERIOD! Matter of fact, it has made painting a pleasure again instead of an annoying chore, as I have had to endure using acrylic paint such as ammo or Model Air. First off, what a time saver MRP is, because I do NOT have to use thinners and try to get it the right consistency. Secondly, I can start a project and shoot the whole thing I have started without having to periodically clean up the plug needle and airbrush, as with Ammo. With ammo, it was a constant shoot and unplug, shoot and unplug. Thirdly, I can spray something that such as a missile, holding it with my fingers, shoot the MRP on the free end, finish spraying a few coats and in less than a minute, turn the piece around, holding it on the end I just got done spraying ( already dry ) and spray the unpainted area. Try that with acrylic! I can also mask off a part I have painted, put the new color down and remove the tape off without worrying about it removing the paint! YES, MRP is the only paint I basically use now, except for a few Tamiya ones. A BIG thank you to MRP for making painting fun again instead of a lesson in frustrations and aggravations!! As for the smell, I happen to like the smell of lacquer paint, so it doesn't bother me one bit. 🙂
I agree with you regarding the smell and the coverage of the Mr Pain(t) colors. I just finished an F-16 that I painted in Alaskan Splinters camo. I used Alclads Black Primer and Microfiller and then painted the Light Arctic Grey. I then went on to paint Haze Grey slightly overlapping the Light Arctic Grey and even though I pained 8-10 layers I can still see the Light Arctic Grey thru the Haze Grey. I then needed to paint Nato Black overlapping both previous colors, so I decided to put primer over the grey's in order to not have the same problem again. On the other hand I've only had my airbrush for roughly two months, so it could very well be me rather than the colors... I have a Bf109 that I'm going to build after the next modell and I have all of the RLM colors for that one from MRP, so that's going to be interesting...
I've been using Mr Tool Cleaner to flush clean my H&S and Iwata airbrushes followed by a final flush with Mr Colour Levelling Thinner to remove any residual Mr Tool Cleaner. I haven't had a problem with sticking needles since doing this - I use MRP, Mr Hobby Aqueous and Tamiya acrylics (thinned as necessary with lacquer levelling thinner or rapid thinner) in the H&S and MRP metallics or AK Extreme metals in the Iwata. I usually (but not always) strip clean the airbrush when I get to the end of a build.
Hi Nigel , I have been using the rapid thinner in the way you described and I have had no stickiness of the controls , just leave a tiny drop in the air brush . Loving the demos , really useful .
Aotake when applied lightly was green when applied heavy it turned blue. Or other way around. And influences of the weather etc would shift it also. Oh and of course manufacturer had a different tint. If I remember correctly. In short pick a color you like and use that. For a 48 or 72 scale plane I'd take the aotake green I think. The olive grey looks like the top surface color of PH zeroes. Cowling color looks awesome
I would just like to give Nigel and his mum a huge shout out I sent some bits to them and during this time I was rushed into hospital after having a heart attack and they have both sent me a thank you card which was not expected I am due to be released from hospital Wednesday feeling much better inside apart from the ribs Thank you Nigel and his mum
Glad to hear you are on the mend Simon. The card was more Mum than me as I'm sure you're aware, but be assured we are both extremely grateful for your generosity. Thank you.
Regarding Aotake: It was a translucent Protective (Anti-Corrosion) coat applied over bare metal (Aluminium mostly) on Japanese Navy aircraft. The best way I have found to replicate it is to use a metalizer paint for a base bare aluminium finish, then mix clear blue and clear green to apply over that. You can vary the mix of blue and green to produce differing finishes, some more green blue, other blue green as it did vary in the mixing. I have tried several "Aotake paints" but none of them produced a result that satisfied me when comparing to a sample of the real Aotake finish. (There is a Zero in the Auckland War memorial Museum here in NZ and it still has a lot of it's original paint work and Primers intact.)
Pearl Harbour Zero's were painted in that light grey green type colour J3 SP Olive Grey? They moved onto being painted in a dark green later in the war. The Wiki page for Mitsubishi Zero shows a couple of examples.
I am about to venture into airbrush painting.Excellent video. Am building amati 1.200 bismarck and would appreciate any advice on buying my first airbrush kit
The best advice is this.. buy the best you can afford. Remember, my £100 odd Iwata is still going strong after at least ten years and has never had a part replaced.
You say they do t cover well. I only spray with MRP and have done so now for over 5 years, including varnishes and primers. I find it an advantage that they are so thin and I have to disagree that they don’t cover well. At 15psi you are spraying a little on high side for MRP and I would suggest doing so at nearer 10psi or even lower for fine lines. I noticed that the paint covers really well at a low psi, wind up the psi and you will get through it faster. Incidentally, you don’t have to thin it for fine lines at a sub10 psi pressure.
Interesting..i wonder how Mr Hobby's Cowling Color compares to the MRP..i have a bottle but it looks just like black to me in the bottle..i'm not expert but i think the grey brown colour is for the exterior colour of the Zero kit that you have
The J3 is indeed the Pearl Habour era colour used. MRP428 being the Mitsubishi version and MRP429 the Nakakima built version. MRP delayed release of these colours to get them checked out against the latest most authoritative sources. This is a controversial colour with many claims and counter claims. I would go with MRP’s version all the time.
As a an airbrush newbie, its one of the few paint that I can used relatively easily. Its too runny for me though and I do wish whatever they use as a solvent want so toxic (and stinky).
The nickel base stainless steel shouldn't rust and not be magnetic. I used to sell stainless grills from the cheaper to the top of the line. All stainless steel is not created equal. Pretty interesting video.
@@NigelsModellingBench After looking around for ceramic balls to put in the pots there are different type of ceramic balls. Would any do as long as they're ceramic balls?
MRP is the BEST paint I have ever used, PERIOD! Matter of fact, it has made painting a pleasure again instead of an annoying chore, as I have had to endure using acrylic paint such as ammo or Model Air. First off, what a time saver MRP is, because I do NOT have to use thinners and try to get it the right consistency. Secondly, I can start a project and shoot the whole thing I have started without having to periodically clean up the plug needle and airbrush, as with Ammo. With ammo, it was a constant shoot and unplug, shoot and unplug. Thirdly, I can spray something that such as a missile, holding it with my fingers, shoot the MRP on the free end, finish spraying a few coats and in less than a minute, turn the piece around, holding it on the end I just got done spraying ( already dry ) and spray the unpainted area. Try that with acrylic! I can also mask off a part I have painted, put the new color down and remove the tape off without worrying about it removing the paint! YES, MRP is the only paint I basically use now, except for a few Tamiya ones. A BIG thank you to MRP for making painting fun again instead of a lesson in frustrations and aggravations!! As for the smell, I happen to like the smell of lacquer paint, so it doesn't bother me one bit. 🙂
The Olive Grey is the surface colour for Zero's that weren't in the dark green.
I agree with you regarding the smell and the coverage of the Mr Pain(t) colors. I just finished an F-16 that I painted in Alaskan Splinters camo. I used Alclads Black Primer and Microfiller and then painted the Light Arctic Grey. I then went on to paint Haze Grey slightly overlapping the Light Arctic Grey and even though I pained 8-10 layers I can still see the Light Arctic Grey thru the Haze Grey. I then needed to paint Nato Black overlapping both previous colors, so I decided to put primer over the grey's in order to not have the same problem again.
On the other hand I've only had my airbrush for roughly two months, so it could very well be me rather than the colors... I have a Bf109 that I'm going to build after the next modell and I have all of the RLM colors for that one from MRP, so that's going to be interesting...
I've been using Mr Tool Cleaner to flush clean my H&S and Iwata airbrushes followed by a final flush with Mr Colour Levelling Thinner to remove any residual Mr Tool Cleaner. I haven't had a problem with sticking needles since doing this - I use MRP, Mr Hobby Aqueous and Tamiya acrylics (thinned as necessary with lacquer levelling thinner or rapid thinner) in the H&S and MRP metallics or AK Extreme metals in the Iwata. I usually (but not always) strip clean the airbrush when I get to the end of a build.
Hi Nigel. Aotake overtime would colour shift from blue to green when exposed to the elements
Hi Nigel , I have been using the rapid thinner in the way you described and I have had no stickiness of the controls , just leave a tiny drop in the air brush . Loving the demos , really useful .
The J3 colours are for the Zero's used up untill the attack on Pearl Harbor (A6M2's and M3's most likely).
Hi Nige, Another great video. Cheers!! Quite a few adverts during this video. UA-cam have got you again!!
Thanks for that. I'll sort it
Aotake when applied lightly was green when applied heavy it turned blue. Or other way around. And influences of the weather etc would shift it also. Oh and of course manufacturer had a different tint. If I remember correctly. In short pick a color you like and use that.
For a 48 or 72 scale plane I'd take the aotake green I think.
The olive grey looks like the top surface color of PH zeroes.
Cowling color looks awesome
I would just like to give Nigel and his mum a huge shout out I sent some bits to them and during this time I was rushed into hospital after having a heart attack and they have both sent me a thank you card which was not expected I am due to be released from hospital Wednesday feeling much better inside apart from the ribs Thank you Nigel and his mum
Glad to hear you are on the mend Simon. The card was more Mum than me as I'm sure you're aware, but be assured we are both extremely grateful for your generosity. Thank you.
The olive grey was the aircraft colour in 41. All the planes attacking pearl harbour were that colour
Thanks Colin, so its the correct colour for my Tamiya 1/32 then?
Yes if it’s the type21. I have the same colour in the gunze range for mine
Regarding Aotake: It was a translucent Protective (Anti-Corrosion) coat applied over bare metal (Aluminium mostly) on Japanese Navy aircraft. The best way I have found to replicate it is to use a metalizer paint for a base bare aluminium finish, then mix clear blue and clear green to apply over that. You can vary the mix of blue and green to produce differing finishes, some more green blue, other blue green as it did vary in the mixing. I have tried several "Aotake paints" but none of them produced a result that satisfied me when comparing to a sample of the real Aotake finish. (There is a Zero in the Auckland War memorial Museum here in NZ and it still has a lot of it's original paint work and Primers intact.)
Pearl Harbour Zero's were painted in that light grey green type colour J3 SP Olive Grey? They moved onto being painted in a dark green later in the war. The Wiki page for Mitsubishi Zero shows a couple of examples.
I thought they were lighter? So is the right colour for my Tamiya Zero?
@@NigelsModellingBench I think it should be Nigel. Looks similar to the box art on your Tamiya 1/32 Zero kit.
Well, Tamiya recommend XF76 which is much lighter/greener?? I guess MRP are more likely to have it correct?
I am about to venture into airbrush painting.Excellent video. Am building amati 1.200 bismarck and would appreciate any advice on buying my first airbrush kit
The best advice is this.. buy the best you can afford. Remember, my £100 odd Iwata is still going strong after at least ten years and has never had a part replaced.
@@NigelsModellingBench many thanks
Blue green is the colour same as for F15DJ
The Cowling Colour is supposed to be a dark inky blue black.
You say they do t cover well. I only spray with MRP and have done so now for over 5 years, including varnishes and primers. I find it an advantage that they are so thin and I have to disagree that they don’t cover well. At 15psi you are spraying a little on high side for MRP and I would suggest doing so at nearer 10psi or even lower for fine lines. I noticed that the paint covers really well at a low psi, wind up the psi and you will get through it faster. Incidentally, you don’t have to thin it for fine lines at a sub10 psi pressure.
depends on the factory where zero's were built I think.
Interesting..i wonder how Mr Hobby's Cowling Color compares to the MRP..i have a bottle but it looks just like black to me in the bottle..i'm not expert but i think the grey brown colour is for the exterior colour of the Zero kit that you have
It looks a little too dark to me?
The J3 is indeed the Pearl Habour era colour used. MRP428 being the Mitsubishi version and MRP429 the Nakakima built version. MRP delayed release of these colours to get them checked out against the latest most authoritative sources. This is a controversial colour with many claims and counter claims. I would go with MRP’s version all the time.
Isn't the olive grey used for the main colour on a zero?
As a an airbrush newbie, its one of the few paint that I can used relatively easily. Its too runny for me though and I do wish whatever they use as a solvent want so toxic (and stinky).
The nickel base stainless steel shouldn't rust and not be magnetic. I used to sell stainless grills from the cheaper to the top of the line. All stainless steel is not created equal. Pretty interesting video.
Are they the zirconia ceramic balls?
??
@@NigelsModellingBench After looking around for ceramic balls to put in the pots there are different type of ceramic balls. Would any do as long as they're ceramic balls?
Basically anything that doesn't rust. Marine grade stainless should be fine.