Well done! Your comments about people telling you which color it is supposed to be brings back memories for me. I was involved in an actual Zero restoration and we had literally a truckload of original parts. Suffice it to say we had several variations of Aotake from the same aircraft. When it came to the skin, we had several sections of unfaded well preserved skin with perfect paint. We used those as a guide and still some people said our Aotake and skin color were wrong. You can’t win, so there’s no sense trying to make everyone happy. If you like it, that’s all that counts! BTW, your color match is pretty spot on!
@@grahamhodgson9154 agree mate..but thats what happening to this iconic plane in all the forums i go in...but we try to do our best on what latest info we get on..cant pleased all of them.
Thank-you, so much, for your review of this kit - I never thought I would see the day when Eduard would produce any 1/48 Scale, Japanese aircraft, but I am so glad that they have. Thank-you, once more, for your review of the Eduard 1/48 Scale Zero - now all there is to do is to buy one!! Or two. Or, perhaps, three. Or ...
You are not kidding about the Japanese color can of worms. As a budding avid ww2 Japanese aircraft builder who's opinion matters almost none, color looks great! Glad to see this goes together so well, I'm looking forward to adding one to my stash...just as soon as I clear out some room and build the _other_ Zero's I have lol Great work as always, I'm about to try your 'sandwich shading' on a build I'm working on now, thanks for sharing your ideas and progress!
The Zeros start getting addictive fast when you see all the liveries you can do :) I like that the sandwich shading gives a lot of control over the depth to the paint. You can do so much just at that step alone to give the model life Send me some pics when you try it
@@TheModelGuy hey I tried sending them in UA-cam but apparently that didn't work I guess outside links are not welcome here. I also sent you a message on Patreon (I think) but also not sure that ever made it's way to you. Plus side it went really well! Lol
Hi Robbie, That is one really nice nice looking Zero. It's must be nice to have a manufacturer appreciate your previous work by entrusting you with a sample kit for review. I'm currently on a bit of a Pacific theater kick in respect to audio books, so I'm looking at adding a Zero to the stash.If the Eduard one turns up here in NZ it's going to a duel between it and the newish Tamiya.
Hey Kiwi, I was very stoked to be sent the sample. The Tamiya Zero is nice as well but doesn't have the same cockpit detail or the rivets Eduard did. I'm sure these Zeke's will end up everywhere. It's a very solid kit
I am proud this great kit came from the czech republic, awesome build as always sir, now I am just waiting for Scale-a-ton and his take. Also I love your "it's your model you have to be happy with it in the end" philosphy, very true
Thank you sir, I was avidly anticipating this video and it does not disappoint. I'll have to go back and take notes on your colour mixes but it looks like there's enough there to guide my choices. Also appreciate the tips on sanding and filling because us absolute beginners need every single thing spelled out for us. I dare say this wins best video of the week, even up against Will Pattison's IPMS travelogue epics.* * OK OK, Will's stuff this week is for Rube Goldberg connoisseurs only, but still....
Well done Robbie. A great effort as always. That’s one for my bucket list. To have Eduard send me one of their kits to build. You’ve done them proud and show cased their kit beautifully.
Loved the video. I like to listen to your zero builds while I’m working on my Nichimo Ki-45, I’ve learned a lot of tips along the way. I wish more companies explored Japanese bombers in 1/48. The tamiya G4M1 Betty us the only one I’ve came across. So if Eduard decided to do a Ki-67 I would be all over it.
I see you guys flawlessly masking canopies and always think “Howwww??”. There’s me with a magnifier, a fine brush, a few strips of guide tape and a squint to try and see the frame edge clearly :D
I struggled with the same problems of masking canopies. Pre cut masks are a Godsend. Lots of companies make masks now, Eduard has a huge variety of masks for all scales and manufacturers. They were a life saver for the 1/48 HK Lancaster I built. Highly recommend them.
Tsurugi ! Nice work - especially like the instrument pannel super detail idea - great special origonal parts -- HOW about illuminated - nano lights - thus can see more interior detail from outside - new idea big impact ? 日本語字幕が有れば、日本のエンドユーザーに浸透するでしょう。I love your strategies!
Great work. Glad you weren't hung up about the colours. I have the added difficulty of being colour blind so I cannot mix and match a paint without help. I also tried special glasses for colour blind people and while they helped they I would never have the confidence to just 'go for it' so never actually purchased them and with corrective lenses they were very expensive. While chatting with the optician he also said that everyone perceives colours differently so what looks right to one person will look wrong to another. Maybe the people who are anal about colours should consider this.
Hi buddy just came across your channel cool looking zero you have done a fantastic job have just ordered this kit thanks for the tips on your zero will try some of these when I start building mine. cheers Gary from the UK 🇬🇧
Really nice build. Love watching your builds as you don't make them over complicated, also the fit looks fantastic on the Zero. For my last Zero I used Vallejo Green Grey. Looked quite good.
Most accurate depictions I've seen are a olive sea grey. So, yours is spot on. I usesd to always think they were bleach white when I was a kid because of Tora, Tora, Tora and Black Sheep Squadron. I love the details to the rudder and ailerons in terms of a lighter color compared to the rest of the aircraft. A lot of builders get that wrong or totally miss it (myself included). Great work. I would love to see them do a P-40 B and A6M2 combo if they haven't already (I know Airfix did). Anyway, great build.
I love Japanese aircraft and so the Zero is top as standard..Your build is amazing and you’ve got my vote in colour choice..I’ve got this kit and will airbrush as much insignia as I can,I was just concerned about using the decals I can’t spray..Now seeing you can work with modern Eduard decals on this kit,I’m willing to do it.. As you suggested suggestions and as I love Japanese aircraft..How about Eduard bring a range of ki-43 Oscar’s along..Beautiful aircraft with many interesting paint scheme’s and much overlooked..ICM are bringing out a new ki-21 Sally and could name a whole bunch in 1/48 I’d love to see(E-13 jake..ki-49 Helen ..Ki-48 Lily..)… Thanks again and all the best from Blighty🇬🇧👍
The cockpit is sort of the pearl of the kit. You know it's going to be a focus point and even if only a third of your effort shows, it looks better than stock
Excellent video, thank you, very helpful. My dad was a Pearl Harbor survivor, so he was probably shot at by one of these. One thing, though, I wish you had discussed and explained what you were doing with the Uschi mottle templates, and the colors you were using, while you were showing it, would have been helpful.
Awesome A6M2!! I didn't know Eduard had one until I was Googling "1/48 A6M". Like you, I don't pay too much attention to what other modelers consider "right" or "wrong" in terms of colors. The weather and sun fading in real world environment is going to change what the colors look like to several different shades and variations of the original color. So just about any shade or tone of the original color could be considered correct. Every original photograph I've seen of Japanese aircraft, the aircraft are heavily weathered with lot's and lots of paint chipping and sun fading, and all sorts of different shades and tones of the same original color. With the weathering and chipping on your model, I would consider that a new and clean "Pearl Harbor A6M2". The paint used on Japanese aircraft before and during WWII was of very low quality, and from what I've read, they often didn't even prime them. It chipped and faded very easily. Japan didn't learn quality until after the war during the country's re-build when American engineer William Deming taught hundreds of Japanese engineers about how to engineer quality into their products.
Greetings from Alberta! Amazing build as always! Would you be able to do a video that shows all the tools you use? Like the model of your airbrush, tweezers, jig that holds the models, etc. Keep up the amazing work! Cheers
Hello mr.guy!very nice build.thank u4delivering fun excitenes and Inspiration.thank u4sharing.with best regards and sticky greetings from Brandenburg germany.faithfully yours.your modellmate.christian
@@TheModelGuy Off topic but your video did spark an idea.. And I will be getting this kit real soon. By chance what company makes a good line of JA planes.. I am trying to find ground crew, maintainers etc. and it's crazy hard.
New subscriber, years ago I was an avid builder, but life and family took over my " model time". However finally retired and model time is back. Along the way models, detail, material, suppliers kit cost have changed a great deal. I have discovered Eduards have the Camel and Spitfire kits, ( I want to build a Spitfire for Gillespie), They will probably be my go to kits in future but need to get my skill set back before building them. I need to get up to speed on your and putty for filler. It looks like you used a ' wipe off filler". I recall a green putty I think by Squadron, took a lot of sanding. I have been recoomended several variations of Tamiya glue. My go to paints were Humbrol. When I was building there were no " washing kits". I have several partially built kits and some old unbuilt for retraining. But the putty and glue would be of interest. AND your skills in this video are excellent, sorry for the long post, I've found kit review videos but not too many builders and your skills and materials are definitely a lot more current on where I need to be in today's model world. Would also welcome inputs from your fans. Thanks.
For glue Tamiya Extra Thin quick setting is a great well rounded glue. That's what I started with and only recently.l moved to a faster drying glue I use perfect plastic putty for the wipe away glue but one draw back is it shrinks after drying. So you'll need a few layers and allow it to fully dry.
@@TheModelGuy OOPS, I was researching video and a few more, forget to ask, How about the black gloves are they special kind to prevent body oils , or prevent glue from sticking. I remember getting " glue prints" from glue on finger tips. Sorry about that - so many models so little time :-)
Also watched your Tamiya Zero build from a couple of years back. Seems the Eduard one has lots of detail but from every Tamiya model I've built from the 90's up......well I just sit back and smile at how well they go together. I even built the Tamiya Zero from the 70's and it was amazing how well it went together for such an old kit. Both look like great kits. If you had your choice, considering all factors such as fit, detail, engineering, decals, cost and availability in Canada, which one would you pick?
Oh boy that's a loaded question :) First off, thanks for watching an taking the time to comment. I really appreciate it. I've done both the new tool Tamiya Zekes (A6M3 & A6M5) and they both assemble very well with no drama. The low parts count also helps it out. Now, The Model Guy from seven years getting back into this, and newer, or modelers who are happy with a build with no drama, I would suggest the Tamiya kit. The big difference with Eduard, is the surface detail and much higher parts count. There is also a lot more going on in the office. If you're put off by a high parts count, maybe steer away from this kit. But, between the Tamiya offering and Eduard, this would be my choice. I love detail and this is right up my alley. But I would happily build either.
Thanks for the reply. Got back into modelling in 2018 after a 40 year break and have been a fan of your channel for a couple of years. Built a couple of Eduard's recent kits in the past and they were great kits. Hopefully Eduard will come out with a weekend edition in the near future as they are usually great bang for your buck. The Eduard double pack is just to expensive for me. Will have to watch your 2 videos again and decide what one I will get. Eduard Profipack when it finally arrives in Canada or the Tamiya as it's readily available. Hmmmmm....
@@TheModelGuy thanks, but what I mean is, what make of paint? E.G. Airfix always list Humbrol and, Tamiya always list Tamiya paints (of course). So, what do Eduard lst?
It's an incredible build. I know you said not to get hung up with the color - it's just that I can't help seeing a "brown" Zero in the thumbnail and yours look like the gray green I'm used to other model builds. Did this IJN plane expert advise brown or gray green?
Hey mate, just found your channel and loving it! Outstanding job with this and I really like the format of your videos. What brand of aircraft jig are you using there?
fantastic build. I definitely cant afford the Tora Tora Tora edition but this video sold me on the profipack they put out for the A6M2. I did have one question though as to what type of flat clear coat you used. It looks great!
Looks like an amazing kit Robbie. Great job on the build. I love your discussion on paint research. From what you said the dual boxing doesn’t include canopy masks?
I’m actually doing this same kit. However I’m making a plane from the carrier Hiryu which had the light blue tail stripes. Any suggestions on an out of the bottle color?
Great build! I love Eduard kits but I’ve been avoiding the Zero as it seemed rather bland to me. Obviously I’m wrong, your build really pops! Thanks for the inspiration. Looking forward to more videos from you.
That's what I mean when I say I'm surprised Eduard went all in on that Zekes. It's a very niche aircraft that really didn't seem to have a following. But the amount I'm seeing being built online makes me think I was wrong.
It might be the stupid question but, what are you applying starting 11:50 and what for? to imitate scratches on the wing edge? softened by thin glue or thiner?
@@TheModelGuy if you have alumium plane you airbrush, first you put down black primer, but how do you use mig chipping fluid to make base come through if black?
Turned out great! One thing to bear mind with Japanese subjects is that nobody can really provide an authoritative answer - documentation is nearly nonexistent, information abundant and contradictory, and too little based on primary sources. Not to mention how little standardization there was between manufacturers, suppliers, production runs and individual units. Do it the way you like! One small note on aotake (青竹) - it’s less the name of a specific color, and more the family of protective finish, and similar to zinc chromate primers, color varies wildly, and use was inconsistent. The pronunciation of “ao” rhymes with “wow,” and “take” roughly with “café” but without the stress on the last syllable.
A few of the guys stating they were right were sending grainy washed out pictures from books. That had dark photos to start with. I settled on the one that sent a picture of a well lit fuselage part with some paint chips around it
This was the reference I followed www.google.com/search?q=a6m2+landing+gear&rlz=1CDGOYI_enCA871CA871&oq=a6m2+&aqs=chrome.2.69i57j35i39l2j0i512l3.3513j0j7&hl=en-US&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8#imgrc=if36LIpYVCusoM
@@TheModelGuy OK. The brake line passes through holes inside the gear cover, then twists to the leg and goes down to the wheel hub. On your link it is plainly visible. If you own the Maru Mecanic on the Zero there are very good pics of that. Regards.
For the white zero's I use tamiya Racing white. Don't really care about how accurate it is. I just hate mixing paint. If I mix paint I usually mix a tiny 5ml bottle of touch up and spray a bit on a styrene square to put in the box for future touch ups.
Another great model by you, it's great to see the efforts you go through to make everything look right. Keep up the good work and best wishes to you from NZ.😉. ps. I'm in the process of converting a 1.48 Revell B24D into an RAF Liberator Mk 3a from 224sqn Coastal Command, in memory of my great uncle who lost his life in a flying accident 30.10.1942. Their aircraft (FK242) hit a barrage balloon whilst attempting an emergency landing. What's the best thing or way to handle Revells horrible raised panel lines. I've looked at using the Tamiya panel line scriber but the line is too wide? Is there a better way of scribing a thiner panel line?
If I had a twonie for every person that came in here saying “you’re saying decals wrong” I’d be able to buy the Border Lancaster. Not everyone speaks English with the same accent.
I´ve just finishing my F4U 1/48 from Revell. I have a problem. After my Vallejo Air colours I´ve airbrushed a layer of gloss varnish (Vallejo), which i mixed with Vallejo Thinner. On some areas the gloss-varnish peals of like skin after a sunburn. Can anybody be so kind to tell me where is the reason for my problem?
Vallejo Model Air is a very delicate colour. You only need a few drops of thinner to paint to spray it. It sounds like you’ve put on too thick of a layer. I used Vallejo quite a bit starting out but being an acrylic it can be very inconsistent. If you are set on acrylic paints, I recommend moving to Mission Model Paints or the Mr Colour Aqueous Range
Here's the thing with watching people build on UA-cam. You are seeing edited videos and people rarely show their mistakes. You have to also remember you are seeing years of experience and the only way to get that is keep building.
Nobody alive today even has a clue what the correct colors were, they would talk to people, but how exact can you get from a verbal description, really. Also, the pilots back then didn’t care if they were flying a plane with pink and purple polka dots on it, they had a job to do and they didn’t care. Also, if you would ask them, if they were still alive, they wouldn’t remember anyway. Yes, there’s black and white photographs, but what do they tell you about colors? …. Nothing. I personally like when someone paints them lighter, more white color, than too dark of tan. A lot of those planes were painted with different hues and tints anyway, they never had exact matching paint, they would have a ballpark idea, paint them and throw their insignias on them. They were more interested in the planes performance than cosmetics. There are restorations of different planes from WWII and they have them all shiny with clear coat, those planes back then were flat, ugly, chipped and oversprayed paint jobs, not even the cars on the street were clear coated. They never had clear coat back then. Clear coat was never introduced until the mid to late 1970’s. So this guy is right, paint them the way that you think they should look like.
Well 1930-40s aircraft paint is not your average DYI paint, but comes with military specs and requirements. Still does not mean that colors don’t have factory variation, period variation and environmental effects and even application techniques. Of course the best hard evidence are the aircraft samples followed by factory specs. Some of these factories still exist today. Besides what a color looks like from the factory and how it looks on a model with scaling and other considerations is something entirely different. As a side jump, you sometimes read how (some) pilots would try to get every bit of speed out of their aircraft by waxing them. You can imagine that a waxed aircraft would look very different to its drab counterparts. On the one hand everybody thinks they are an expert (after reading a couple of web sites, articles or books!) but don’t go dismiss everybody because some people have been studying the subject for decades. Also some references are quite good. Still leaves a lot of artistic interpretation, especially if some subjects are only known for photographs showing only part of the scheme and details. That’s where many heated debates can ensue as well. The A6M is a beautiful aircraft especially the early war Ameiro scheme, or the early field applied green camouflage. …and yes, people can have endless discussions on RLM colors and schemes and never come to a final conclusion.
Best cockpit detail is pilot from Hasegawa, Old Monogram, Fujimi or newer Tamiya kits. Option for wheels up are preferable. Why spend $130.00 on a cockpit. A 1/48 Japanese sitting pilot with a Hachimachi tied around his forehead is much better. That way you can have a dogfight with an allied fighter. Well everybody has different taste.
Well done! Your comments about people telling you which color it is supposed to be brings back memories for me. I was involved in an actual Zero restoration and we had literally a truckload of original parts. Suffice it to say we had several variations of Aotake from the same aircraft. When it came to the skin, we had several sections of unfaded well preserved skin with perfect paint. We used those as a guide and still some people said our Aotake and skin color were wrong. You can’t win, so there’s no sense trying to make everyone happy. If you like it, that’s all that counts! BTW, your color match is pretty spot on!
Well said
Was it grey? :)
Hi there, nice re the restoration. Lol It's ridiculous when folks take a hobby that revolves around building plastic model kits so seriously.
@@grahamhodgson9154 agree mate..but thats what happening to this iconic plane in all the forums i go in...but we try to do our best on what latest info we get on..cant pleased all of them.
Thank-you, so much, for your review of this kit - I never thought I would see the day when Eduard would produce any 1/48 Scale, Japanese aircraft, but I am so glad that they have.
Thank-you, once more, for your review of the Eduard 1/48 Scale Zero - now all there is to do is to buy one!!
Or two.
Or, perhaps, three.
Or ...
日本からです。丁寧な製作過程を拝見すると、山程造った零戦を、また造りたくなってしまいました。
You are not kidding about the Japanese color can of worms. As a budding avid ww2 Japanese aircraft builder who's opinion matters almost none, color looks great!
Glad to see this goes together so well, I'm looking forward to adding one to my stash...just as soon as I clear out some room and build the _other_ Zero's I have lol
Great work as always, I'm about to try your 'sandwich shading' on a build I'm working on now, thanks for sharing your ideas and progress!
The Zeros start getting addictive fast when you see all the liveries you can do :)
I like that the sandwich shading gives a lot of control over the depth to the paint. You can do so much just at that step alone to give the model life
Send me some pics when you try it
@@TheModelGuy hey I tried sending them in UA-cam but apparently that didn't work I guess outside links are not welcome here. I also sent you a message on Patreon (I think) but also not sure that ever made it's way to you.
Plus side it went really well! Lol
@@gamerleveldad1397 weird I'll have a look to see what's going on
Yet another stunning build with great clear commentary. Thank you.
Thanks Mark
Hi Robbie, That is one really nice nice looking Zero. It's must be nice to have a manufacturer appreciate your previous work by entrusting you with a sample kit for review. I'm currently on a bit of a Pacific theater kick in respect to audio books, so I'm looking at adding a Zero to the stash.If the Eduard one turns up here in NZ it's going to a duel between it and the newish Tamiya.
Hey Kiwi, I was very stoked to be sent the sample. The Tamiya Zero is nice as well but doesn't have the same cockpit detail or the rivets Eduard did. I'm sure these Zeke's will end up everywhere. It's a very solid kit
I am proud this great kit came from the czech republic, awesome build as always sir, now I am just waiting for Scale-a-ton and his take. Also I love your "it's your model you have to be happy with it in the end" philosphy, very true
Excellent work, the result is well worth it! The gentle rivets really make it pop out in scale. Glad we Czechs make such nice kits :)
Such a beautifull plane to build!! Love the result.
Wonderful work, and you talk a lot of sense👍. FWIW I think your colour choice looks perfect. This one is definitely on my ‘to build’ list.
Thank you sir, I was avidly anticipating this video and it does not disappoint. I'll have to go back and take notes on your colour mixes but it looks like there's enough there to guide my choices. Also appreciate the tips on sanding and filling because us absolute beginners need every single thing spelled out for us.
I dare say this wins best video of the week, even up against Will Pattison's IPMS travelogue epics.*
* OK OK, Will's stuff this week is for Rube Goldberg connoisseurs only, but still....
Well done Robbie. A great effort as always. That’s one for my bucket list. To have Eduard send me one of their kits to build. You’ve done them proud and show cased their kit beautifully.
Thanks Ben. I was very surprised they sent it and didn't think I was worthy.
Loved the video. I like to listen to your zero builds while I’m working on my Nichimo Ki-45, I’ve learned a lot of tips along the way. I wish more companies explored Japanese bombers in 1/48. The tamiya G4M1 Betty us the only one I’ve came across. So if Eduard decided to do a Ki-67 I would be all over it.
People need better things to do than argue about paint. As always you made a work of art
Excellent work on what seems to be an exquisitely detailed kit. I'm looking forward to adding it to the stash. Thanks for sharing your awesome work! 🙏
I see you guys flawlessly masking canopies and always think “Howwww??”. There’s me with a magnifier, a fine brush, a few strips of guide tape and a squint to try and see the frame edge clearly :D
I use masks when they are available. It makes life so much easier.
I struggled with the same problems of masking canopies. Pre cut masks are a Godsend. Lots of companies make masks now, Eduard has a huge variety of masks for all scales and manufacturers. They were a life saver for the 1/48 HK Lancaster I built. Highly recommend them.
Another great video, the zeke turned out great!
I haven't built many models. However, my favorite so far was the Eduard 1/48 P-51D Mustang, item 82102. What a sweet model!
Tsurugi ! Nice work - especially like the instrument pannel super detail idea - great special origonal parts -- HOW about illuminated - nano lights - thus can see more interior detail from outside - new idea big impact ? 日本語字幕が有れば、日本のエンドユーザーに浸透するでしょう。I love your strategies!
A 1/48 harvard sure would be a treat from eduard. Or the harvard ll!! Another outstanding job on this one.
I'm sure a Texan/Harvard in 1/48 would sell like crazy. So many countries and air forces used them. Lots of liveries as well.
Great work. Glad you weren't hung up about the colours.
I have the added difficulty of being colour blind so I cannot mix and match a paint without help. I also tried special glasses for colour blind people and while they helped they I would never have the confidence to just 'go for it' so never actually purchased them and with corrective lenses they were very expensive.
While chatting with the optician he also said that everyone perceives colours differently so what looks right to one person will look wrong to another. Maybe the people who are anal about colours should consider this.
Tremendous job. Really well executed and great commentary. Thanks
Hi buddy just came across your channel cool looking zero you have done a fantastic job have just ordered this kit thanks for the tips on your zero will try some of these when I start building mine. cheers Gary from the UK 🇬🇧
Beautiful work Robbie! Your cockpit work is fantastic!
Thanks dude. Its been a lot of trial and error
Every details are totally realistic, very great model building lad :)
Great stuff. Lots of handy tips to move forward with
I'm glad the video helps :)
Très beau résultat , congratulations ...
Merci mes amis
Really nice build. Love watching your builds as you don't make them over complicated, also the fit looks fantastic on the Zero. For my last Zero I used Vallejo Green Grey. Looked quite good.
Man that turned out nice. Really. Thanks for sharing tips.
Not a problem Skim, it’s nemesis will be here shortly for another review
Czech are damn good at building
Eduard really went up a few notches with this kit
You have one spot of grime too many for a Pearl Harbor aircraft 😁😁 … I had too ! Great model !
Who let you in here?
Most accurate depictions I've seen are a olive sea grey. So, yours is spot on. I usesd to always think they were bleach white when I was a kid because of Tora, Tora, Tora and Black Sheep Squadron. I love the details to the rudder and ailerons in terms of a lighter color compared to the rest of the aircraft. A lot of builders get that wrong or totally miss it (myself included). Great work. I would love to see them do a P-40 B and A6M2 combo if they haven't already (I know Airfix did). Anyway, great build.
very good build and very good edition
Great build.
Gorgeous build.
Very good video! Thank you. I have used masking tape to remove the carrier film with perfect results.
I love Japanese aircraft and so the Zero is top as standard..Your build is amazing and you’ve got my vote in colour choice..I’ve got this kit and will airbrush as much insignia as I can,I was just concerned about using the decals I can’t spray..Now seeing you can work with modern Eduard decals on this kit,I’m willing to do it..
As you suggested suggestions and as I love Japanese aircraft..How about Eduard bring a range of ki-43 Oscar’s along..Beautiful aircraft with many interesting paint scheme’s and much overlooked..ICM are bringing out a new ki-21 Sally and could name a whole bunch in 1/48 I’d love to see(E-13 jake..ki-49 Helen ..Ki-48 Lily..)…
Thanks again and all the best from Blighty🇬🇧👍
The pipes (brass tubing) in the cockpit looked great. Do like a bit of plumbing in my aircraft, even if most is only known to me.
The cockpit is sort of the pearl of the kit. You know it's going to be a focus point and even if only a third of your effort shows, it looks better than stock
Nice work man! Looks like a sweet kit.
Excellent video, thank you, very helpful. My dad was a Pearl Harbor survivor, so he was probably shot at by one of these. One thing, though, I wish you had discussed and explained what you were doing with the Uschi mottle templates, and the colors you were using, while you were showing it, would have been helpful.
As seen in Pearl Harbor, nice model Zero fighter plane.
I just got this kit I like the colour and how you went with your on way of doing it I would like to see Eduard hurricane in this scale well done 👍👍
Been waiting for one of these, will give it a good coat of looking over a bit later!
Good job! A friend of mine and myself are trying to apply your techniques on our models.
Awesome A6M2!! I didn't know Eduard had one until I was Googling "1/48 A6M". Like you, I don't pay too much attention to what other modelers consider "right" or "wrong" in terms of colors. The weather and sun fading in real world environment is going to change what the colors look like to several different shades and variations of the original color. So just about any shade or tone of the original color could be considered correct. Every original photograph I've seen of Japanese aircraft, the aircraft are heavily weathered with lot's and lots of paint chipping and sun fading, and all sorts of different shades and tones of the same original color. With the weathering and chipping on your model, I would consider that a new and clean "Pearl Harbor A6M2". The paint used on Japanese aircraft before and during WWII was of very low quality, and from what I've read, they often didn't even prime them. It chipped and faded very easily. Japan didn't learn quality until after the war during the country's re-build when American engineer William Deming taught hundreds of Japanese engineers about how to engineer quality into their products.
Brilliant build as always!
excellent build!! tamaya always had good zeros, but this is new to me. eduard's mig-21's are awesome, but im going to find a few of these. thanks.
Greetings from Alberta! Amazing build as always! Would you be able to do a video that shows all the tools you use? Like the model of your airbrush, tweezers, jig that holds the models, etc.
Keep up the amazing work! Cheers
I'm sure I could do that, maybe a more in depth series.
I'm in Alberta as well. I plan on hitting the capital city show this year if it happens
Hello mr.guy!very nice build.thank u4delivering fun excitenes and Inspiration.thank u4sharing.with best regards and sticky greetings from Brandenburg germany.faithfully yours.your modellmate.christian
Very Amazing video, and cool fine detail kit
It’s definitely Eduard’s best work to date
@@TheModelGuy Off topic but your video did spark an idea.. And I will be getting this kit real soon. By chance what company makes a good line of JA planes.. I am trying to find ground crew, maintainers etc. and it's crazy hard.
Excellent build. Thanks for the informative video.
New subscriber, years ago I was an avid builder, but life and family took over my
" model time". However finally retired and model time is back. Along the way models, detail, material, suppliers kit cost have changed a great deal. I have discovered Eduards have the Camel and Spitfire kits, ( I want to build a Spitfire for Gillespie), They will probably be my go to kits in future but need to get my skill set back before building them. I need to get up to speed on your and putty for filler. It looks like you used a ' wipe off filler". I recall a green putty I think by Squadron, took a lot of sanding. I have been recoomended several variations of Tamiya glue. My go to paints were Humbrol. When I was building there were no " washing kits". I have several partially built kits and some old unbuilt for retraining. But the putty and glue would be of interest. AND your skills in this video are excellent, sorry for the long post, I've found kit review videos but not too many builders and your skills and materials are definitely a lot more current on where I need to be in today's model world. Would also welcome inputs from your fans. Thanks.
For glue Tamiya Extra Thin quick setting is a great well rounded glue. That's what I started with and only recently.l moved to a faster drying glue
I use perfect plastic putty for the wipe away glue but one draw back is it shrinks after drying. So you'll need a few layers and allow it to fully dry.
@@TheModelGuy Thanks so much, this helps a ton.
@@TheModelGuy OOPS, I was researching video and a few more, forget to ask, How about the black gloves are they special kind to prevent body oils , or prevent glue from sticking. I remember getting " glue prints" from glue on finger tips. Sorry about that - so many models so little time :-)
Looks great.
*Wonderful build, everything is so perfect ... 🤩👍*
Brilliant, very inspiring
Also watched your Tamiya Zero build from a couple of years back. Seems the Eduard one has lots of detail but from every Tamiya model I've built from the 90's up......well I just sit back and smile at how well they go together. I even built the Tamiya Zero from the 70's and it was amazing how well it went together for such an old kit. Both look like great kits. If you had your choice, considering all factors such as fit, detail, engineering, decals, cost and availability in Canada, which one would you pick?
Oh boy that's a loaded question :)
First off, thanks for watching an taking the time to comment. I really appreciate it. I've done both the new tool Tamiya Zekes (A6M3 & A6M5) and they both assemble very well with no drama. The low parts count also helps it out. Now, The Model Guy from seven years getting back into this, and newer, or modelers who are happy with a build with no drama, I would suggest the Tamiya kit. The big difference with Eduard, is the surface detail and much higher parts count. There is also a lot more going on in the office. If you're put off by a high parts count, maybe steer away from this kit. But, between the Tamiya offering and Eduard, this would be my choice. I love detail and this is right up my alley. But I would happily build either.
Thanks for the reply. Got back into modelling in 2018 after a 40 year break and have been a fan of your channel for a couple of years. Built a couple of Eduard's recent kits in the past and they were great kits. Hopefully Eduard will come out with a weekend edition in the near future as they are usually great bang for your buck. The Eduard double pack is just to expensive for me. Will have to watch your 2 videos again and decide what one I will get. Eduard Profipack when it finally arrives in Canada or the Tamiya as it's readily available. Hmmmmm....
Loved the vid and it looks like a fantastic kit!
Wish I could get my hands on a Eduard kit to build here in South Africa!?
Superb! Love the colors!
Great build mate
Excellent build video; thank you!
Bellissimo lavoro complimenti !!!
Got mine this week, got to finish my F6F first…..and I am sloooow.
Are you going to review the brand new wildcat from Eduard
Maybe… :)
It should be here any day.
@@TheModelGuy the same kit you’re reviewing is available in BC I forgot that I was ordering one in till now
Very nice build 👌
Cool model and tutorial.
Your good at modeling way better then me
It’s just experience. I don’t consider myself better than anyone. We’re just all at different parts of the journey.
Great build sir. Love it. By any chance do you remember what color you used under the canopy, top fuselage behind the pilot?
Thanks bud. I used Mr Paint Cowling blue
That looks like a great kit and an awesome job. What paint make do they call for in instruction?
They call for a mix opposite to what I did.
@@TheModelGuy thanks, but what I mean is, what make of paint? E.G. Airfix always list Humbrol and, Tamiya always list Tamiya paints (of course). So, what do Eduard lst?
@@ponymoore6140 gotcha. They call out for Mr Color paint
What is the correct color is the inside of the cowl on the A6M2? Is it the same as the outside color black?
For the rear canopy yes, it’s cowling black.
Excellent build 😎
But I don’t think I would be using Tamiya xf-85 rubber black as a flat clear as it would cover all that beautiful work lol
Super! ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
It's an incredible build. I know you said not to get hung up with the color - it's just that I can't help seeing a "brown" Zero in the thumbnail and yours look like the gray green I'm used to other model builds. Did this IJN plane expert advise brown or gray green?
Hey mate, just found your channel and loving it! Outstanding job with this and I really like the format of your videos. What brand of aircraft jig are you using there?
That is the masterpiece models Benchmate for 1/32-1/24 scale
@@TheModelGuythanks
When is this due in shops? Kit number?
fantastic build. I definitely cant afford the Tora Tora Tora edition but this video sold me on the profipack they put out for the A6M2. I did have one question though as to what type of flat clear coat you used. It looks great!
Damn right...the Zero color question is more intensly fought then the RLM83 question ever was... ;-)
Looks like an amazing kit Robbie. Great job on the build. I love your discussion on paint research.
From what you said the dual boxing doesn’t include canopy masks?
They are included for the 2 planes in the combo box
There is a pair of everything
I’m actually doing this same kit. However I’m making a plane from the carrier Hiryu which had the light blue tail stripes. Any suggestions on an out of the bottle color?
Maybe some Tamiya XF-17 Blue?
Do you have the size ,brand, and where to get the extra detail wires from. Everything I have seen and purchased was too big or doesn’t work.
I bought a lead wire set from Cabella's that you'd use for fishing lures. Comes with different gauges.
A resin drop tank would be nice.
Getting model paints right now can be problematic, can you recommend a color in the tamiya range that will match the beige fuselage color?
You can use XF-76 IJN grey green from Tamiya and be in the ballpark.
@@TheModelGuy thanks.., even my local hobbyshop is running low on tamiya paints not to mention Gunze
Great build! I love Eduard kits but I’ve been avoiding the Zero as it seemed rather bland to me. Obviously I’m wrong, your build really pops!
Thanks for the inspiration. Looking forward to more videos from you.
That's what I mean when I say I'm surprised Eduard went all in on that Zekes. It's a very niche aircraft that really didn't seem to have a following. But the amount I'm seeing being built online makes me think I was wrong.
I hope Eduard would offer a 1/48 G3M Nell.
It might be the stupid question but, what are you applying starting 11:50 and what for? to imitate scratches on the wing edge? softened by thin glue or thiner?
I'm scratching off the top layer of paint to show the aluminum underneath. That gives you some chips :)
where did you get masking film for zero circles?
I ordered it from a site in Canada called Hobby Enablers. It's Oramask 810
@@TheModelGuy how did you draw out circle in film?
@@43rocket as stated in the video a Silhouette cutter
@@TheModelGuy if you have alumium plane you airbrush, first you put down black primer, but how do you use mig chipping fluid to make base come through if black?
@@43rocket aluminum doesn’t chip off. That’s the actual colour of the metal under paint.
Turned out great! One thing to bear mind with Japanese subjects is that nobody can really provide an authoritative answer - documentation is nearly nonexistent, information abundant and contradictory, and too little based on primary sources. Not to mention how little standardization there was between manufacturers, suppliers, production runs and individual units. Do it the way you like!
One small note on aotake (青竹) - it’s less the name of a specific color, and more the family of protective finish, and similar to zinc chromate primers, color varies wildly, and use was inconsistent. The pronunciation of “ao” rhymes with “wow,” and “take” roughly with “café” but without the stress on the last syllable.
A few of the guys stating they were right were sending grainy washed out pictures from books. That had dark photos to start with.
I settled on the one that sent a picture of a well lit fuselage part with some paint chips around it
Your brake line should pass through the leg cover and not along the leg. Otherwise no sweat! Cheers.
This was the reference I followed
www.google.com/search?q=a6m2+landing+gear&rlz=1CDGOYI_enCA871CA871&oq=a6m2+&aqs=chrome.2.69i57j35i39l2j0i512l3.3513j0j7&hl=en-US&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8#imgrc=if36LIpYVCusoM
@@TheModelGuy So you can see in the pictures that you are not correct with the brae line along the leg. Salute.
@@TheJeannot52 I'm confused what you are trying to say. In the image the brake hard line is on the gear leg. You are saying it should be on the door?
@@TheModelGuy OK. The brake line passes through holes inside the gear cover, then twists to the leg and goes down to the wheel hub. On your link it is plainly visible. If you own the Maru Mecanic on the Zero there are very good pics of that. Regards.
For the white zero's I use tamiya Racing white. Don't really care about how accurate it is. I just hate mixing paint. If I mix paint I usually mix a tiny 5ml bottle of touch up and spray a bit on a styrene square to put in the box for future touch ups.
I use the deckels.
Another great model by you, it's great to see the efforts you go through to make everything look right. Keep up the good work and best wishes to you from NZ.😉.
ps. I'm in the process of converting a 1.48 Revell B24D into an RAF Liberator Mk 3a from 224sqn Coastal Command, in memory of my great uncle who lost his life in a flying accident 30.10.1942. Their aircraft (FK242) hit a barrage balloon whilst attempting an emergency landing. What's the best thing or way to handle Revells horrible raised panel lines. I've looked at using the Tamiya panel line scriber but the line is too wide? Is there a better way of scribing a thiner panel line?
"Deh-cles" hahaha!
If I had a twonie for every person that came in here saying “you’re saying decals wrong” I’d be able to buy the Border Lancaster.
Not everyone speaks English with the same accent.
I´ve just finishing my F4U 1/48 from Revell. I have a problem. After my Vallejo Air colours I´ve airbrushed a layer of gloss varnish (Vallejo), which i mixed with Vallejo Thinner. On some areas the gloss-varnish peals of like skin after a sunburn. Can anybody be so kind to tell me where is the reason for my problem?
Vallejo Model Air is a very delicate colour. You only need a few drops of thinner to paint to spray it. It sounds like you’ve put on too thick of a layer. I used Vallejo quite a bit starting out but being an acrylic it can be very inconsistent. If you are set on acrylic paints, I recommend moving to Mission Model Paints or the Mr Colour Aqueous Range
@@TheModelGuy: Thanx for your advise. I mix the vallejo gloss with thinner 50/50 and use a 0.2mm airbrush.
Man I wish I had your skill. Watching your models discourages me from building 😞😞😞
Here's the thing with watching people build on UA-cam. You are seeing edited videos and people rarely show their mistakes. You have to also remember you are seeing years of experience and the only way to get that is keep building.
Nobody alive today even has a clue what the correct colors were, they would talk to people, but how exact can you get from a verbal description, really. Also, the pilots back then didn’t care if they were flying a plane with pink and purple polka dots on it, they had a job to do and they didn’t care. Also, if you would ask them, if they were still alive, they wouldn’t remember anyway. Yes, there’s black and white photographs, but what do they tell you about colors? …. Nothing. I personally like when someone paints them lighter, more white color, than too dark of tan. A lot of those planes were painted with different hues and tints anyway, they never had exact matching paint, they would have a ballpark idea, paint them and throw their insignias on them. They were more interested in the planes performance than cosmetics. There are restorations of different planes from WWII and they have them all shiny with clear coat, those planes back then were flat, ugly, chipped and oversprayed paint jobs, not even the cars on the street were clear coated. They never had clear coat back then. Clear coat was never introduced until the mid to late 1970’s. So this guy is right, paint them the way that you think they should look like.
零式艦上戦闘機!!!
Love your channel + Art Brother, I'm a Historian from UMICH, TAMIYA '96 (I think) still FAR better. Don't get the Eduard Love ya'll give IMHO
@@jeffreyross-zb8cz I’m glad you enjoy the channel! Tamiya’s 1/48 A6M2 and A6M5 are really nice builds too. Just lack the level of detail of this kit.
I am amazed how people who know nothing about 1930s painting think colors are exact!
Well 1930-40s aircraft paint is not your average DYI paint, but comes with military specs and requirements.
Still does not mean that colors don’t have factory variation, period variation and environmental effects and even application techniques.
Of course the best hard evidence are the aircraft samples followed by factory specs. Some of these factories still exist today.
Besides what a color looks like from the factory and how it looks on a model with scaling and other considerations is something entirely different.
As a side jump, you sometimes read how (some) pilots would try to get every bit of speed out of their aircraft by waxing them. You can imagine that a waxed aircraft would look very different to its drab counterparts.
On the one hand everybody thinks they are an expert (after reading a couple of web sites, articles or books!) but don’t go dismiss everybody because some people have been studying the subject for decades. Also some references are quite good. Still leaves a lot of artistic interpretation, especially if some subjects are only known for photographs showing only part of the scheme and details. That’s where many heated debates can ensue as well.
The A6M is a beautiful aircraft especially the early war Ameiro scheme, or the early field applied green camouflage.
…and yes, people can have endless discussions on RLM colors and schemes and never come to a final conclusion.
Best cockpit detail is pilot from Hasegawa, Old Monogram, Fujimi or newer Tamiya kits. Option for wheels up are preferable. Why spend $130.00 on a cockpit. A 1/48 Japanese sitting pilot with a Hachimachi tied around his forehead is much better. That way you can have a dogfight with an allied fighter. Well everybody has different taste.
Hold up a second, so you can actually peel off the transparent film?! :O
Yes you can but practice on a test kit first.
@@TheModelGuy Cool! Thank you :D
Edward 1/48 Hurricane...😃pls pls pls
ARMA is doing one this year and their quality in 1/72 is amazing. Better than a certain brand in 1/48.
@@TheModelGuy oh ok thats good news