@@hanssgarage1886 i am planning to do the same to my b20 head. Someday...maybe...eventually. Someone made cuts trought a b20 head and ports of a b20. I can send you the pictures if you want. maybe they can help you. Let me know if you want them.
usually, if you touch to the guiges, they need to be reamed and the valve seat ground and the valves lapped. Lucky if you can have tight and lasting valve seating.
i place a valve in the valve guide and on top a nut with the same height as the old valve guide, then new valve guide on top of the old valve guide, ( the valve set you're new valve guide in place, then place it under the press and push with the new valve guide the old one out, the depth is the same height as the nut, now you're finessed and do the next.
Do you plan to do any port work on the combustion chamber? There is a lot to be had by knocking down that big hard edge on either side of the spark plug. Making that taper into a smooth transition will help on the intake and exhaust.
Thanks for the tip. I have never done porting but I'm actually doing it at the moment. At this point I just do something small and focusing on exhaust channel. It takes a lot of time this porting... ;)
@@hanssgarage1886 yes, cast iron seems like it takes FOREVER! Lol. That’s a good thing for beginners though, it’s harder to make a major mistake like aluminum....aluminum cuts like warm butter.
@@carportshenanigans5918 Just now at garage. After about 4 hours first exhaust and intake are almost ready. I can’t reach everywhere in the exhaust channel because it’s shape. I just put some fresh pic to my Instagram hans_soolo.
I had to fight a circular battle with IG, tried to create an account and it said an account was already using my email address, then tried logging in with my email address and it said there was no account tied to that email! ARRRRGGGHH! I finally just did a google search and got it to come up. Lol. Looks good so far. Did you do any bowl work yet?
I don’t think it’s a good idea to port the exhaust, I think they are already too large and you will make it worse. I have heard of folk getting better flow by actually adding material. Might be worth asking someone first who ports B18/20 heads.
Well, i agree and disagree. ;) I will do a video of my first porting. The exhaust ports are quite poorly shaped. Original port will make a vacuum after the valve pocket (or some say bown). Bigger is not better in this case, like you say. I will leave the floor alone. It is too low even now making the exhaust to do too sharp corner. I have been advised quite many and I have good instructions, so don't worry.
This will be interesting. At this moment I’m learning how to port this head.🤗
Ready love tour videos.
I am going to follow your plans for “flowing” the head. Good luck with it.
Thanks. This will be a quite adventure. Porting the head at the moment. Looks okey but interesting to see how it will work.
@@hanssgarage1886 i am planning to do the same to my b20 head. Someday...maybe...eventually. Someone made cuts trought a b20 head and ports of a b20. I can send you the pictures if you want. maybe they can help you. Let me know if you want them.
@@froksie Yes, thank you for the pics. Can you email them to me? hans.soolo@outlook.com or by messenger? You can find Hans's Garage from Facebook.
usually, if you touch to the guiges, they need to be reamed and the valve seat ground and the valves lapped.
Lucky if you can have tight and lasting valve seating.
I lapped valves and now it has worked for over a years. Lucky I guess.😁
i place a valve in the valve guide and on top a nut with the same height as the old valve guide, then new valve guide on top of the old valve guide, ( the valve set you're new valve guide in place, then place it under the press and push with the new valve guide the old one out, the depth is the same height as the nut, now you're finessed and do the next.
Do you plan to do any port work on the combustion chamber? There is a lot to be had by knocking down that big hard edge on either side of the spark plug. Making that taper into a smooth transition will help on the intake and exhaust.
Thanks for the tip. I have never done porting but I'm actually doing it at the moment. At this point I just do something small and focusing on exhaust channel. It takes a lot of time this porting... ;)
@@hanssgarage1886 yes, cast iron seems like it takes FOREVER! Lol. That’s a good thing for beginners though, it’s harder to make a major mistake like aluminum....aluminum cuts like warm butter.
@@carportshenanigans5918 Just now at garage. After about 4 hours first exhaust and intake are almost ready. I can’t reach everywhere in the exhaust channel because it’s shape. I just put some fresh pic to my Instagram hans_soolo.
@@hanssgarage1886 I’ll have to check it out on IG.
I had to fight a circular battle with IG, tried to create an account and it said an account was already using my email address, then tried logging in with my email address and it said there was no account tied to that email! ARRRRGGGHH! I finally just did a google search and got it to come up. Lol. Looks good so far. Did you do any bowl work yet?
Nice video!
Thanks!
I don’t think it’s a good idea to port the exhaust, I think they are already too large and you will make it worse. I have heard of folk getting better flow by actually adding material. Might be worth asking someone first who ports B18/20 heads.
Well, i agree and disagree. ;) I will do a video of my first porting. The exhaust ports are quite poorly shaped. Original port will make a vacuum after the valve pocket (or some say bown). Bigger is not better in this case, like you say. I will leave the floor alone. It is too low even now making the exhaust to do too sharp corner. I have been advised quite many and I have good instructions, so don't worry.