This was an excellent presentation , well planned and delivered. No time wasted trying to entertain me, just facts, best video I've seen ( and I'm not related).
I recently did my own brakes on my own F150 03' same method except without that bearing grease tool. I wish I had that greaser bearing tool it would have made it easier for me. That's a cool tool to have.
Now that's how you deliver an instructional video Sir! Only I still have not quite come to understand how to face the seal. I am loading a utility trailer Bearing set with a very cheap looking seal with no outer rubber to meet the inner circumference of the hub. Making it appear incomplete. Unless of course that rubber outer seal portion is supposed to be purchased separately. I honestly do not how which part of the seal goes on first nor why there's no rubber outside, but only where the seal meets the axle. Care to shed some light on the subject Sir?
Thank you for your kind words. The seal in the video is of a special application. If I remember correctly it’s from an off-road towing tractor. Majority of the hub seal would not have that outer rubber seal
@waynesgarage8579 thanks for your reply sir! Yet, my confusion remains whether I should mount the the overt side of the seal against the bearing (which seems to sit loosely against the bearing) or the covert side which seems to fit snugly against the bearing (in a groove of the bearings inner race)? The kit comes with no instruction on which end to insert first. I’m Leary because I’m camping in the woods and don’t want to insert it backwards and destroy the bearing on the way home and end up destroying the entire process. Any ideas on that issue sir! Thanks for your help indeed!
I’ll use the following link as an example: www.amazon.com/iBroPrat-Trailer-Spindles-Replace-171255TB/dp/B0BRZPG58K/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?adgrpid=159614312533&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.qhc_M92uBlBH_v1NhInVF01Zt1EkacYJCoSykW2K9gZVxH9guAX-gokJUFUbgMm3nq-D4TngflaG1qMlGMrr_9vlyKb0dCjziaH9DusmZr9gHp99cNTsT829d-R1ffe7vUfO70RDpophJW3P9SfyaLTpIfj-Q6WAhmXJl-zIHeLRp4CAbpVghPFV6iOYzl4KfTeqN12dLrkYqjVPAn0G4A.0ibVqGVkuM_VguRBr3wlGEZMZUu8Ly7zoqkvcpPn1zo&dib_tag=se&gad_source=1&hvadid=693143806078&hvdev=m&hvexpln=68&hvlocphy=9031947&hvnetw=g&hvocijid=9273847822203725536--&hvqmt=b&hvrand=9273847822203725536&hvtargid=kwd-11795729715&hydadcr=19198_13388055&keywords=trailer+bearings+and+seals&qid=1723385758&sr=8-5 The bearing seal should have a spring visible. That spring’s job is to keep tension on the seal lip that’s riding on the rear seat of the spindle. So on the last photo of that link shows how the seal should look when it’s installed on the wheel hub. In other words, the spring should be facing the grease side when installed. The inner bearing (larger one) will be trapped in the hub loosely after the seal is installed. When you tighten the castle nut in the end is when everything gets lined up. Hope this helps.
@waynesgarage8579 thank you Mr Wayne! As this serves my interest, I will certainly shout out your channel in my next episode of SIG! @SummerIsGolden23 Thank you so very much for your time and attention Sir! Have a wonderful day!
@@waynesgarage8579 Wow Mr. Wayne , I feel so silly! Had I been paying close attention during your original video, I would have saw how you pulled the seal out, and would not have needed to ask any further questions! I'm sorry you're not close by, I could use a good mechanic! Thanks again!
My shop uses some organic cleaner solution that is bio friendly. If I’m at home I’ll soak it in hot soapy water as I clean them and then run thru them with brake cleaner to dry before repacking
If those are the original bearings and seals then I’m quite impressed. I would suggest replacing them all instead of regreasing because the amount of work is about the same if not less. Bearings and seals don’t cost much either. Also consider how long you’re planning on keeping the vehicle before throwing more money at it instead of regreasing. Something to keep note of, there’s a chance the old bearing might have worn a groove on your spindle making removal extremely hard. Let me know how it goes
This was an excellent presentation , well planned and delivered. No time wasted trying to entertain me, just facts, best video I've seen ( and I'm not related).
I recently did my own brakes on my own F150 03' same method except without that bearing grease tool. I wish I had that greaser bearing tool it would have made it easier for me. That's a cool tool to have.
Now that's how you deliver an instructional video Sir! Only I still have not quite come to understand how to face the seal. I am loading a utility trailer Bearing set with a very cheap looking seal with no outer rubber to meet the inner circumference of the hub. Making it appear incomplete. Unless of course that rubber outer seal portion is supposed to be purchased separately. I honestly do not how which part of the seal goes on first nor why there's no rubber outside, but only where the seal meets the axle. Care to shed some light on the subject Sir?
Thank you for your kind words. The seal in the video is of a special application. If I remember correctly it’s from an off-road towing tractor. Majority of the hub seal would not have that outer rubber seal
@waynesgarage8579 thanks for your reply sir! Yet, my confusion remains whether I should mount the the overt side of the seal against the bearing (which seems to sit loosely against the bearing) or the covert side which seems to fit snugly against the bearing (in a groove of the bearings inner race)? The kit comes with no instruction on which end to insert first. I’m Leary because I’m camping in the woods and don’t want to insert it backwards and destroy the bearing on the way home and end up destroying the entire process. Any ideas on that issue sir! Thanks for your help indeed!
I’ll use the following link as an example:
www.amazon.com/iBroPrat-Trailer-Spindles-Replace-171255TB/dp/B0BRZPG58K/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?adgrpid=159614312533&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.qhc_M92uBlBH_v1NhInVF01Zt1EkacYJCoSykW2K9gZVxH9guAX-gokJUFUbgMm3nq-D4TngflaG1qMlGMrr_9vlyKb0dCjziaH9DusmZr9gHp99cNTsT829d-R1ffe7vUfO70RDpophJW3P9SfyaLTpIfj-Q6WAhmXJl-zIHeLRp4CAbpVghPFV6iOYzl4KfTeqN12dLrkYqjVPAn0G4A.0ibVqGVkuM_VguRBr3wlGEZMZUu8Ly7zoqkvcpPn1zo&dib_tag=se&gad_source=1&hvadid=693143806078&hvdev=m&hvexpln=68&hvlocphy=9031947&hvnetw=g&hvocijid=9273847822203725536--&hvqmt=b&hvrand=9273847822203725536&hvtargid=kwd-11795729715&hydadcr=19198_13388055&keywords=trailer+bearings+and+seals&qid=1723385758&sr=8-5
The bearing seal should have a spring visible. That spring’s job is to keep tension on the seal lip that’s riding on the rear seat of the spindle.
So on the last photo of that link shows how the seal should look when it’s installed on the wheel hub. In other words, the spring should be facing the grease side when installed. The inner bearing (larger one) will be trapped in the hub loosely after the seal is installed. When you tighten the castle nut in the end is when everything gets lined up. Hope this helps.
@waynesgarage8579 thank you Mr Wayne! As this serves my interest, I will certainly shout out your channel in my next episode of SIG! @SummerIsGolden23 Thank you so very much for your time and attention Sir! Have a wonderful day!
@@waynesgarage8579 Wow Mr. Wayne , I feel so silly! Had I been paying close attention during your original video, I would have saw how you pulled the seal out, and would not have needed to ask any further questions! I'm sorry you're not close by, I could use a good mechanic! Thanks again!
Thanks for quality bearing and race vids foxbody needed bearings not just new rotors; got stuck test driving
Thank you, I’m glad the video helped
Nice vid, would you recommend re greasing these bearings on a 20 yr old ranger with 200k miles or would it be better just to leave them alone
Thanks for the great vid Wayne - just wondering what is the best solvent to clean the bearings and hub with please?
My shop uses some organic cleaner solution that is bio friendly. If I’m at home I’ll soak it in hot soapy water as I clean them and then run thru them with brake cleaner to dry before repacking
@@waynesgarage8579 appreciate it Wayne 🙏
Nice vid, would you recommend re greasing these bearings on a 20 yr old ranger with 200k miles or would it be better just to leave them alone
If those are the original bearings and seals then I’m quite impressed. I would suggest replacing them all instead of regreasing because the amount of work is about the same if not less. Bearings and seals don’t cost much either. Also consider how long you’re planning on keeping the vehicle before throwing more money at it instead of regreasing. Something to keep note of, there’s a chance the old bearing might have worn a groove on your spindle making removal extremely hard. Let me know how it goes
@@waynesgarage8579 thanks! I will