Here's Why You NEVER Mess With Factory Wheel HUBS!!
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- Опубліковано 8 чер 2024
- Here's Why You NEVER Mess With Factory Wheel HUBS!! How To Change Wheel HUB Assembly!!
#WheelHUBS #HUBAssembly #WheelBearing
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In this video I replace the passenger side HUB and bearing assembly on my 1995 GMC Suburban K1500 (GMT400). This hub assembly is the ACDelco 515024 and is the recommended replacement for my particular truck.
Initially I had trouble with the torque spec for the three bolts that hold the HUB to the knuckle but I did a little more research as well as put in a phone call to a Chevrolet dealership and found a recurring torque spec of 133 ft. lbs. This made a little more sense to me from the 19 ft. lbs. that the manual was stating. This torque spec is for my particular vehicle of course and you should do your own research and come to your own conclusions for your particular needs.
**This channel is for entertainment purposes only! Do not do what I do. Do not take my advice. I am not a professional. The methods I use may be completely wrong and/or dangerous. Please seek professional help with anything and everything and do your own due diligence (research). Working on cars is extremely dangerous. I am not responsible for any loss of life or limb or property. DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH. THIS CHANNEL IS FOR ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES ONLY!**
FTC Disclaimer: I am an Amazon associate. As such, I earn a percentage of sales made through Amazon associate links found in the description of my videos and on my website and other places.
00:00 Intro
00:19 HUB Assembly
00:43 Knuckle
01:05 Removing HUB
03:18 Installing New HUB
05:47 Double Check Work
08:21 Undo Work
09:08 Re-Installing New HUB
11:13 Conclusion - Авто та транспорт
You must not be from the northeast those hubs become one with the knuckle… lol
@Noah Brooks
No he’s from Commiefornia!!!
Unless he lives in the mountains in northern Commiefornia, he rarely drives on salt treated roads!
@@AzzKicker-bz1cb He lives in Tennessee. He moved from California last year.
Plus the rim...
Those bolts literally looked new. Newer than new lol
A good powerful air hammer takes them out after taking the bolts out
Anytime you are doing a job like this, do it on the vehicle, always start the bolts and or nuts by and, get them all in the threads before you tighten anything up, because Sod’s law will dictate that at least one won’t line up. Also just a note, any job on suspension bushings should only be tightened fully at resting road height
great advice, Ive ran into that before and had to loosen all the other bolts just to get that one in.
Start all the bolts first.
I've just seen I already made this point a year ago.
How are you supposed to do that? It's behind the wheel, you can't torque it while it's on the ground because you can't get to the nuts after the tire is on. I'm not trying to be a troll, I'm honestly asking if there is a way cuz I just don't see how it would work.
Nevermind, I retract my comment, I glossed right over the fact you said bushings. Sorry.👍🏻
It’s insane how someone can have a “automotive” based channel with over 200K subs and still look like it’s the first time he has ever seen a tool every time he touches it.
the blind, leading the blind,lol
Agreed, this guy is a nothing more than a certified youtube mechanic that is just passing off bad information he say on the internet.
I must have been looking for this comment.... I was just sitting here thinking how this guy has great videos yet he is not a real mechanic but he also says that a few times in his other videos.. that's why I respect them
I agree with you 100%. This is all b.s. Step to the head of the class!!!!!!
@@robertkorn I never heard him claim he is certified. Perhaps I should subscribe to your UA-cam channel, let us know what it is.
I was always told to put anti seize around the area that seats into the knuckle so that it doesn’t weld the hub assembly together in the future
Yes, anti-seize is your friend on something like that.
Yeah I wish I bought all my used cars from you. Lol. I bet I can unscrew your oil filter with just my hand too. And the same never seize can be found schmood all over your wheel lugs too.
@@acme_tnt8741 Anti-seize is very important to use on lug studs in areas where salt is used in the winter. It will not cause lug nuts to fall off randomly. There are even tables that are used to determine how much additional torque to set a torque wrench to when using anti-seize on fasteners. Signed, a professional.
@@kmoecub torque values are DECREASED not increased when antisieze is applied because it lubricates the threads. If you are a professional mechanic you should know that.
@@kmoecub and that is why I said that I wished I had purchased my used cars from him. Also signed by a professional lol
Jimmy, word of caution, install all of the retaining bolts and seat them be for applying torque
I though i was the only one to notice that 😅
Yep, snug first, then two steps of torque
Yes, very good observation. We all have to take this into account !!
First thing I thought of was put ALL the bolts in first, snug them and THEN start torqing. Torque in stages. 25 ft lbs, then 50 ft lbs, then 75 ft lbs, then 100 ft lbs, then 133 ft lbs.
I'm glad you double checked the torque specs. That's a MAJOR difference and probably saved someone's life!!!
NEVER, EVER have I had a front or rear wheel hub assembly come apart that easily. Most of my steering knuckles have been aluminum, and the corrosion that forms makes for an incredibly difficult disassembly
The assembly will tilt and rub the brake rotor against the brake pads sitting inside the brake caliper anyways, and then kick on the abs light because of the wheel speed sensor
agreed be prepared for a fight to get these to separate
@@tomcross4981 I replaced one at a campground in GA while coming back from FL on my 2010 Suburban at night time. My wife assisted and now she knows how to do this job. I retorqued all the bolts once I returned home. Biggest issue was getting a socket and breaker bar from the auto parts store to remove the axle nut.🤣
I took one out of a 2014 Suburban with 212,000 miles on it in Texas. It was the OEM factory bearing. I was ready to beat it with a 5 lb hammer. After the 3rd bolt came out, it fell out onto my ankle. Not a single tap required. I couldn't believe it.
If I was up north, I would coat the inner portion of the knuckle with antisieze before installing the new bearing.
I had one on a 2007 Ford Ranger 4wd. It had a slight growl. I replaced both sides. They were stuck on and impact was needed to remove. I did clean the rust corrosion then added anti-seize to where it fit in. The 3 bolts on the flange had a thread lock blue requirement. The torque is based on grade, thread, size. I have worked on cars for 50 years. The dealer wanted $2,000. I bought 2 hubs for $100 took my time removing and replacing. Fairly easy.
not so many years ago we never had torque wrenches.
But we sensed the elasticity of the threads, and learned from our mistakes.
Were you born in the 1800's?
been around garages all my life and never seen them used except for engine reassembly
How many years is Not So Many 🤔
I have a set of Torque Wrenches that my Grandfather owned. There is an Inch and a Foot pound.
I know he got it well before I came along in 1966.
@@kmoecub I was born in 1943. I first used a torque wrench in 1963.
They were very expensive and rare, and then mainly used for big end cap nuts on aluminium connecting rods, to avoid over stressing the cap nut bolts when the rod heated up.
Not everybody in the workshop would have access to such a precision instrument.
By the time you "sense" the threads you've ruined them.
Yeah! the 12 MM 10.9 generic recommended torque spec given in the front of my Chilton manual is 135 foot lbs. Maybe the 19 Ft/lbs was for the speed sensor or something closer to 6 or 8 MM.
Agreed. I just replaced the front hubs on my Jeep and the spec for the hub holding bolts was 99 ft lbs (the hubs are a press fit into the knuckles). I have a motorcycle from the 80's and every one of the service manuals has errors in it (including the manufacturer's service manual).
Also, has this guy never used a medium-strength thread lock paste before? Shoud he even be working on a vehicle? He clerly has no idea how a torque wrench is supposed to be used.
I believe that 15mm bolt can handle 45_50flb easily. It should be more. So 133flb is about correct. The wheel lug bolt is about 85_90flb. That bolts should be more than that. So 133flb is reasonable.
A good quality torque spec chart is worth its weight in gold to have in the shed, I use a caterpillar chart, metric and imperial dry and lubricated . I fell for the trap of taking the book as gospel back when I was a young apprentice,
Question question question
I would double check that spec. I'll bet it's 135 Nm, not ft-lb. The chart that I'm looking at for a 12mm, class 10.9 bolt have a torque value of exactly 135 Nm, which is about 100 ft-lb.
2:56 "Now this hub assy should just slide right out". Living in New England with salted roads, I nearly spit my coffee!!
... and from 1995!!! Bwahahaha!!! edit: Anti-seize on the mating surfaces is a good idea where it gets cold.
Yeah, I'm in the northern mid-west. There are often times it gets cold enough that not even salt is very effective. Naturally the response to that is overwhelming force by applying a sh*t ton of it. Auto makers must love it.
yeah, even in nice warm areas you get people who drive their SUV near or on the coast and saltwater spray eats everything
When working on vehicles especially your own, it may be a good idea to go out and buy or borrow a Haynes, or Chiltons service manual for your vehicle, available at any parts store. They're worth their weight in gold, not only will they walk you through a repair step by step. They will give you the torque specs, they will also tell you how to troubleshoot/test parts as well. And quite possibly you may even find the info needed faster then getting online.
I find Haynes about half useless. Wiring diagrams are helpful, but as a mechanic a lot I need to find out is not there. I have not seen Chiltons, Motors or Audels manuals for years.
Thats what I told my brother to do when my mom gave him our dad's old Cameron z28 because he could fix smaller things himself if he wanted and I could do more major things for him if he needed because I like working on the car with him it's like we are working on something together and feels like our dad is right there with us.
Chilton yes Hayne's for starting a fire.
Haynes book of lies
@@brandonrapp9338 I do not think lies is appropriate. Only half information is told. The 2000 Dakota manual does not tell where the DRLM is located. On the left fender behind the battery. Other vehicles they are on the firewall.
I checked my GM service manual for the torque of the front Hub & bearing Asm. It called for 180 Nm which equal to 133 Lb Ft. I bet your 'other book' said 18, maybe they left a "0" off by mistake on the Nm number for torque. Good catch on your part. I couldn't believe 18 lb ft either.
That sounds more like it!
I checked the identifix spec when I did my s10 blazer front bearings, was 120 ft lbs I think.
I agree, the lowest I've seen is around 45 ft-lbs on Subaru's. 133 ft/lbs honestly sounds excessive although, the spec is the spec.
Check out the specification for hub bearings on the newer F-150. I'm pretty sure they are close to 300 ft-lbs. It literally requires a special torque wrench for most technicians.
Definitely, 19 foot lbs is for an oil filter, not a hub, that’s nuts.
As a professional mechanic, you are told to go off the size of the bolt and grade . If you don’t have a workshop manual. Most manuals will have a chart for torque values for different bolt sizes .
Can't always us bolt size torque value, I learned the hard way . Reassemble the connecting rod on a 7½ hp aircompressor and it was aluminum. It cracked it. Luckily o found a used one for $75 v/s $150 for new. Memory vague but was mor like 20'-25 ft lbs for ⅜ bolt .
I'd tipped over the whole compressor and broke off the 50#+ flywheel , new crankshaft would be $750. My brother was able to flamespray weld on an oversize piece and machine it to size. Amazing job and works perfect for last ten +years since .
I enjoy these videos as can always learn something .
That axle nut doesn’t clamp anything together other than bearing itself. If those three bolts failed, the axle would walk out with wheel attached.
Negative ghost rider. You've got a rotor atop that hub, a rotor that has a caliper on 33% of its surface.
@@TheRealMikeWilly (rubbish)
@@TheRealMikeWilly Negative, ghost rider. The rotor is attached to the hub. The rotor is not attached to the vehicle in any other way except through the brake lines and a few sensor wires.
So, as stated, if the hub retention bolts failed the wheel - including the rotor and caliper - would part company from the vehicle pretty quickly.
@@amzarnacht6710 you obviously don't have any idea what a steering knuckle is or what the ball joints are that hold the knuckle on. Knuckle is held to control arms or solid axle by 2 ball joints. Plus a tie rod end to articulate the knuckle, the hub assembly is bolted to the knuckle, the hub assembly is capped by a rotor which is held on by the wheel. That rotor, has a caliper that floats over both sides of the rotor and that caliper is bolted to the wheel. If the 3 bolts on the hub assembly failed, you'd hear a great deal of grinding as the rotor rubbed on the caliper but it would never get free unless you just keep driving.
@@amzarnacht6710 the brake caliper frame that's bolted to the knuckle would limit the travel of the brake rotor.
Great Video! Very detailed! Specific Torque for bolts is purely determined by the size and thread pitch and class of the bolt. Class 8, class 9.9 etc. it’s also determined by the material it’s being treaded into. ie steel, iron or aluminum etc.
Absolutely correct!
Learned all about common thread types along with custom threads during my university time in CNC machining and design programming. Learned really quickly that the math we all said we would never use was definitely the extreme opposite.
It also depends heavily on whether it's a "wet" or a "dry" torque spec. Most thread lockers emulate the lubricity of 30wt oil, so the torque is lower than the "dry" spec but results in the same clamp load. Always follow the manufacturer spec, if it has a dry torque either DON'T use thread locker, or reduce your torque accordingly.
That's actually not true. Go by manufacturers torque specs whenever possible because it also matters about the materials of the bolt. Some bolts are designed with more stretch than other bolts. Many Ford heads are recommended to never reuse the bolts due to bolt stretch and it's important to use manufacturer specs and not generic bolt specs.
@@engineclinic Right, I don't think anyone here is talking about torque-to-yield bolts though. Normally bolts are not meant to yield in use, instead they're kept in the elastic range and the torque is meant to provide preload on the bolt while staying safely below any plastic deformation. Bolts that are intended to yield are special cases. Other bolts have standard torque ratings depending on size, thread pitch, and class (which specifies the strength of the material and the material is implied).
Undertorquing will lead to an increased tendency to back out under cyclical loading and vibration, overtorquing will risk stretching the bolt past the yield point of the material (or squishing the thing you're trying to clamp down, but that depends on materials and design; often bolts intended for securing softer materials will have a shoulder to prevent damage).
Definitely something worth mentioning, but "not true" isn't how I'd say it.
At 7:52 ok 100% agree! 133# works for me but in-stead of the thread locker use anti-seize because you might want to remove them another day!!! I’m on my third bearing for a dodge!!!
Perfect timing, I'm doing this same job tomorrow on my 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee, hubs don't have the holes in the front to access bolts it's bolted on from the back but I'm a lot more confident I can do it now. Thanks for the video and great channel.
Tim Hook 1, Yours would be piece of cake to do.
Torque values are ALWAYS for clean, dry threads. Loctite acts as a lubricant and changes the spec. Loctite recommends reducing torque values by 20%.
Not always, many fasteners need to be lubricated prior to installation/torquing
@@flatheadcountyaudit3395 If a torque value is other than clean and dry it is highly specialized. Can you quote me an example please?
@@flatheadcountyaudit3395 While you look for those lubricated thread torque values see if you can find a rusty bolt torque chart. They would be equally useful.
This is from a Ford truck FE torque spec sheet: "Oil threads with lightweight engine oil... unless the threads require oil resistant or water-resistant sealer." I would think thread locker would fall in the sealer category, but when it's wet it acts as a lubricant. This chart applies to all bolts on the engine. Other people say to also oil the underside of the bolt head, which makes sense, since you're lubricating the threads. I've always lubricated all bolts before torquing and have never had a problem. I've overhauled a half dozen engines, and changed head gasket and heads on a dozen more. And as an industrial machine designer with 42 years experience, I've learned that dry steel on steel friction is not as repeatable and uniform as lubricated surfaces. Bottom line, we shouldn't assume that torque specs are dry or lubricated. If the chart doesn't specify, then we should ask the manufacturer. BTW, when you change your oil, the oil pan plug, and the threads in the pan are already lubricated, so you're not torquing it dry.
If you're going to use threadlocker, it needs to go all the way around the bolt, perhaps more so on smaller bolts. A big wad on one side tends to get scraped off as it goes in. Also, if you use lower viscosity threadlocker, it'll wick itself around the bolt before you even install it. (This is aside from the torque spec change with threadlocker because it lubricates.)
I don’t know what took me so long to hit the subscribe button. Perhaps I thought I had already done so. I’ve been enjoying your content for some time now.
Just a quick pointer for you though.
Whenever you’re pushing downwards on a tool with some force like a torque wrench (@ 133 ft lbs) or lug nut wrench as some examples
Push the tool with your palm instead of a clenched fist. If the tool slips or if the fastener fails - it’s not fun or pretty if you punch the ground or floor jack. I’m just passing this knowledge from a generation that served in Vietnam and Korea that taught me a few things decades ago.
Keep the videos coming
😃👍
Lifting the vehicle and spinning the wheel listening for grinding isn't a good way because the brake pads will be contacting the rotor a bit making the same sound. need to take off the brake callipers and spin the wheels to really listen for just the hub going bad.
Or... you can spin the wheel but instead of listening for a sound you can put your hand on the spring behind the wheel. A bad bearing you can feel it through the spring.
I use to work on the big trucks and 133 ft lb of torque is nothing compared to what I had to torque things to. Happy to that you double checked yourself because it's always better to be safe than sorry.
I like your video style in that you don’t hide your mistakes in your journey. It a very “Every man” style that I dig. It’s more like when
I do a project with the struggles that make it satisfying to tackle. 👍👍🇺🇸
I honestly laughed when you said that the torque spec was 19 foot pounds. You were right to question it 👍
Certainly heuristics would indicate that 19 pound-force foot (aka foot-pounds) of torque was on the light side for the intended application, a specification screaming out for further investigation.
Rust is the only thread locker to fear
I just did this on my '05 Buick Rainier and I thought your spec sounded a little high, mine were 103, but you, sir, are absolutely correct. 133 is the torque spec for sure.
I was thinking the same. My guess was 100.
Here in Northern Illinois sometimes you got to use an angle grinder to cut those bolts between the hub and the knuckle
I never regret subscribing to this channel from very first video that Jimmy established in the channel I love this channel 🤘🏻.
You are a wonderful teacher!! Thank you Jimmy
I find that most bolt on hubs will have a torque close to the require torque of the lug nuts. In most cases you will find that specification for the bolts will not be way under your lug nut torque.
I must have missed the point of this video. Why should I never mess with factory hubs?
I know these versions for a 98 jeep Cherokee quite well. 13mm 12 point hub bolts. Between the north east winters and the stresses of off road and larger tires, they become one with the knuckle.
Hello there super nice video, thanks for your advise! Also I think the torque range should with the bolt grade, I would go to any average tightening according to the bolt material whenever I hessitate the torquing. What do you think about it?
Good thing you triple checked the torque values on those bolts!
Jimmie, I am not going to go negative because the world is full of it already.
I'm a 36 year technician in mechanical trades and I've disassembled brand new factory built suspension components in big three and foreign products and I have never witnessed a hub assembly lift out of a knuckle as you depict in this video. Honestly, I suspect your hub may be slap wore out because of the clearance necessary for that to be possible.
You are doing a service in teaching folks they can do their own maintenance, so good on you.
I agree
he must be where nobody has ever salted a road and only drives in sunny weather, so it never rusted together into one solid welded lump of metal.
So jimmy I didn't get why you don't mess with factory wheel hub. Looks like all went well. Great job
Hey I am about to start my own auto repair UA-cam channel making videos and I watch several people and I think you're videos r put together professionally and I can tell you actually do it right and that's my because there are so many people that literally have no clue what they are doing or talking! Plus I don't really like some mechanics that act like its only the way they say and r always correct and no other way to do job! How ever I can see your always learning and have no idea how many people your actually helping and saving money and that's my main purpose to help people
The axle nut does NOT AT ALL hold the wheel bearing to the knuckle!! Those 3 bolts are what holds the wheel to the truck.
Yep I find it funny that a mechanic would think that.
I just replaced the wheel hub of my buddies 01 Silverado. It's definitely three bolts that hold it on LMFAO
Even if you don’t use them it’s still ok
Little heavy on the thread locker. As long as those are through holes, not a problem, except for the next guy. Torque specs vary due to the grade of bolt, bolt diameter, thread pitch and of course, application. Good job double and triple checking. I've done this on my 2009 Colorado, and when you first said 19 ft/lbs I wanted to scream NOOOOOOOO! Good catch.
He shouldn't be making videos.
Blue is designed to come off with little effort but not vibrate off. I like to put red lock tight on my brother-in-laws brake slider pins.
Just changed front press-fit bearings, wow 😳 never knew
It was so complicated!
I can guarantee you that hub has never seen a rust belt winter.
You can tell by the dust shield that hub has never been around my part of the world in the winter. The dust shields on a "95 vehicle would just be little rings of metal around the bolts by now.
19 doesn't sound like enough and you were 100% right to check that. It could have caused a safety hazard if you took that bad advice. 133 does sound right. Even for lug nuts, on my cars it was always somewhere around 100 foot pounds. If I was seeing 19 for those I very seriously would have to say something and double and triple check it. I do not need the hassle of a wheel falling off, it is dangerous to me and anyone near me and it is a very nasty inconvenience considering that you will likely have to get the vehicle to a body shop and pay a towing service to take it there. It is not just unsafe in a straight line but I live on back roads some of which are on the sides of hills. It is safe as long as you stay on the road but you can imagine you don't want a wheel falling off there or on a turn there. It would not be fun!
Super excellent man! Good job!
When he was showing the new hub assembly, something about the cup (or hub) itself looked familiar. I thought I could see the "identification bands" around one of the diameters indicating which lathe it was on (which is just changes in surface finish.) Then he said they were made by Timken and then it confirmed what I was thinking. I use to work in a shop that machined them. They are in fact made in the USA. The steel is from Ohio. They are forged in the same city as Channel lock then go to that company's second plant that cleans up the forgings on lathes and in some cases mills. If the paint dot was still on it, I could of tell what shift ran them. I haven't worked their since 2013 so I doubt I was the one who made that.
When torquing bolts the final torque needs to be moving when it clicks. When you stop the movement before the wrench releases it is under torqued and then subsequent torque attempts won’t over come static friction to obtain final torque. When this happens back off about 1/8 turn and then re torque to final value in one smooth motion.
With your procedure demonstrated on the video you would have done just as well without a torque wrench.
Perfectly explained but I don't think most people will get that. I don't think they will understand that on torque is not equal to break torque. Break torque is really what we are after.
Your experience showed that you weren't satisfied with such a low torque setting. A red flag went up with me as well because 19ft/lb (or up to 25ft/lb) is something like we use for 7/16 inch mild steel bolts for wooden gates and for odd jobs around the farm where high strength is not needed, certainly not high tensile bolts that are used on hubs or machinery etc.
In fact, we don't usually use a torque wrench on mild steel bolts because we just go by 'feel', I'm sure most people do it that way on non-critical jobs.
Thank goodness you picked up on that low setting, full marks!
Yah. Such thick bolts could never be torqued close to their rating level at such a low torque.
For sanity check cross reference the bolt size for torque spec.
This was educational and highly informative. Thank you 1Road!!!
I just replaced a wheel bearing hub yesterday on my 2011 Suburban. The 3 bolts holding the hub to the knuckle went in from the back of the knuckle. There aren't holes in the flange to get a socket in from the front, as was the case on the 99 Suburban and 98 Astro i used to have. I like the backside design better. One thing is still the same - it took several hits of a sledgehammer to get the hub out of the knuckle due to rust.
According to my experience, you always screw all bolts before you start tightening!
Good video!
very informative, thanks for the detailed video. I usually use the red high strength thread locker on such critical bolts (axle bolt, caliper carrier bolt and the ones on the knuckle). Yes it's hard to remove for repairs but that's okay.
You're right about the thread locker. In fact that thick light blue stuff he used doesn't even look like thread locker, more like thread sealer. High strength thread locker is usually a thinner consistency and a darker colour. This is what happens when people don't have real world mechanical experience and don't really understand what they're doing. Those 3 bolts shouldn't be overtorqued as they are for holding the bearing together and excessive torque will damage the bearing causing premature failure.
Good video. It's hilarious that us DIYers have to reiterate how we're not professionals, yet people still complain that we're not pros in the comments.
You can use air impact tools on bearing bolts no problem. Considering the amount of torque you should be using to tighten them, those bolts are some of the toughest ones on a car. Some manufacturers even recommend replacing the bolts during this repair, due to the stress they experience in their lifetime.
I would also lean towards a recommendation of red threadlocker, not blue. The torque spec on those bolts usually ranges anywhere between 50 and 100 lb-ft.
19ftlbs or 25 sounds light to say the least. No need to take the bolts out, just torque em down to 133, on the car.
OEM instructions don't specify thread locker. If you followed the manufacturer instructions, you could have just tightened them to 133 ftlb and been done. So many people add thread locker where it's not needed and just make things more complicated.
Bingo. Never on chassis/suspension bolts. They are way to big and too much torque. The problem down there is not bolts coming loose, it's not being able to GET them loose. Use Aluminum Anti-Seize if you are keeping the vehicle. Or dab of grease or shot of oil will also ease installation and provide for more accurate torque.
@@x-man5056 The torque required to achieve the same holding strength is actually quite different between dry and lubricated fasteners. When lube is used the amount of torque required lessens. If memory serves, the general rule is to use 40% of the dry torque spec when using lube. Don't hold me to that though. Anyway, if you use anti-seize and apply full dry torque spec, you should be fine as long as nothing warped, cracked, etc. Essentially you over tightened w/o causing damage. Hub flange and knuckle seem like parts that can probably take all that and then some.
@@JonMelbo Well said. Antiseize acts as a torque multiplier essentially. The guys who slap it on every bolt will never listen though
@@JonMelbo Yes on the Hub Flange and Knuckle. Never heard of that 40% thing. Torque specs are given in "best case scenario" meaning good threads all the way through no corrosion, no burrs, all to spec. Best case scenario can almost never be achieved affordably. Specifying torque to anything less than "at spec" would leave you with infinite variability. You can't calculate the inconstancy, even if you could measure it each time. So Anti-Seize brings good fit to better fit but until there is an even better way, lubricate threads with appropriate. Anti-Seize is not a grease but does lubricate threads well for torquing. No torque adjustment % necessary but, particularly for fasteners 5/16 and smaller, you must use a good small in/lb or equivalent wrench with very good technique to be constant. Nothing under a Suburban to worry about but say a motorcycle, lawn equipment maybe.
I would never bother "torquing" those bearing hub mount bolts though. Someone said the torque was 133 ft/lbs. Don't know if you have ever torqued anything that high but I can tell you unequivocally that those bolts won't come loose at half that torque. You'd have to do it with the knuckle assy installed on the vehicle or have a massive vise on an anchored bench to ever get close to that torque. Forget it. Just lean on them hard, that's good. 60-80 ft/lbs ish. It's not a wrist watch. 133ft/lbs is B-52 torque.
The 3 large bolts are mounted in tensile, all they do is hold the bearing housing into the bore of the knuckle that carries all the load. Crank 'em down evenly but if your wrench handle is less than 1.5ft, get them as tight as you possibly can, but no hernia. You won't top a 100ft/lbs but it will be fine. None of it will go anywhere.
19 seems so low, i was relieved when you gave it that lil extra grunt 😉 👌👌
Good for you. It is probably possible to get the Factory Manual for YOUR specific vehicle in either a pdf or actual printed pages. The Chiltons manual covering around 10 years of vehicles - that includes my 92 Silverado Truck - is about 1" thick. The Factory manual (which I had to wait some time for it to be printed) - and this manual covers only ONE vehicle (my Truck) - is around 18" thick. HUGE difference in available information. My 2011 Subaru - I have a 'ton' of manuals for - Body; Electrical; Engine; etc. - which I paid an Online Subaru place for like 72 hours of access - and downloaded ALL manuals [pdf's] relating to my vehicle. Red Thread Lock is generally 'permanent' not removed; Blue is for 'permanent' - but might be removing it. Blue is a 'break away'. You should also not just put a 'glob' onto the threads - as depicted in the video - spread it around into the Threads 360 degrees around for a small width distance.
Orange thread locker is my go to choice. It holds nearly as strong as red thread locker but doesn't require heat to remove the bolts.
I stick with blue. I like the chap stick type thread locker also. It’s more than strong enough.
Would be quit3 adequate with nothing according to the manufacturer .. but then again, what do they know!
@@andyxox4168 they don’t want to spend the time to do it, or the expense - nor do they want it to be easy for you to remove years later, in hope’s that you will pay them to do
I’ve always heard to not use thread locker or anti seize on bolts that don’t come from the factory with it on them already. Also adding anti seize and maybe even thread locker will give a false torque setting. If it calls for 125 ft lbs for example you may actually be torquing them to 140 without knowing it.
But the factory always has the luxury of assembling vehicles with brand new parts that haven’t yet accumulated rust or road grime. I always had the opposite thought process where under torquing was the concern, rather than over torquing. And these types of products would actually aid in lubricating the threads while torquing leading to more accurate readings.
I'm sorry but you've heard. Nickel-based anti-seize or even aluminum-based anti-seize does not change specs..
And neither does loctite
Very common foks tight up thhe bolts to 5x their capacity and just by looking at the bolt you can estimate the requirement..
@@trexmidnite Pfft, excuse me? I use the "ugh!" tightening spec, also known as the "ugga dugga" technique. Tighten the bolt until it stops and then turn it until you go "ugh!". That's tight enough :D
Nice job Jimmy.👍👍💪
Thanks for sharing 👍😀
Yet another detailed video. Great catch on the torque specs. However, had you not found the correct specs and then relies on the nut that holds the axle to the bearing assembly, you would have been in a world of hurt. Think about it like this. The 2wd does not have that nut. That nut doesn't have a lot of holding power for the entire bearing and the axle. It would eventually pull right off.
Yup always trust your gut feeling on stuff like this ❤
It has the second highest torque spec on my particular vehicle, which might lead someone to think it has more strength than it actually does. You can pull a CV axle apart with not much fuss. A quarter of the vehicle weight??? You wouldn't even feel it as your wheel went skipping down the highway. Although you shouldn't be messing with the suspension if you think any bolt on the suspension torques to 13 lb/ft or the 25 he felt safer with. My eyes bugged when he said I'm going to 25 to be safe 😂
Bolt diameter determines torque. Also don't tighten bolts or nuts until all have started.
I was hoping someone would mention that all bolts should first be hand-snugged before any real tightening begins.
Very detailed video. Just curious, aren't flange bolts (hub or lug nuts) tightened in circular pattern with gradual force to avoid too much torque on one bolt?
They are done in a start pattern. As if you are drawing a star on paper, mimick that pattern. I generally start with the bottom most bolt
@6:38 Thank you for confirming the need for MULTIPLE information sources!
Also, whenever you put any type lubricants on bolts etc the true torque specs change. Specs are based on dry metal to metal friction and bolt stretching
Correct although new bolts and nuts will be coated in machine oil, so not dry.
You just pointed out exactly what I was about to comment. The thread lock when wet is a lubricant and torque specs for lubricated bolts are higher readings than dry bolt torque specs.
19 foot pounds sounds ridiculously low for any suspension / steering components.
That’s gotta be wrong.
Definitely should be closer to at least 10 ugga duggah’s with a cheater bar on the breaker bar. 😜😂😂👍
@@leebenstead7171
Sorry, but I'm pretty sure most modern OEM suspension bolts are not covered in machine oil. I'll bet 99% are dry coated with an anti-rust coating (even on the threads). (and pretty sure they are all formed and rolled, no cutting, no scrap - pretty cool to watch!)
@@robertveldman1901 I can't even remember what I was commenting on so I agree with you 99%.
@@leebenstead7171 HaHa! Thanks
"The hub should slide right out." This guy clearly lives nowhere near the rust belt.
great advice thank you
Experienced a similar phenomenon recently with a controversial hollow timing gear bolt.....the internet did not know exactly what the correct torque spec was on this hollow oiling bolt..opinions varied wildly 😳
I try to compare things to a lug nut. A common light car is 80lb ft. With that size bolt I would put about the same, maybe closer to 100. But definitely not 19 lol. It all comes with experience.
Yea but if a bolt that size is going into aluminum, you still gonna put 100 lb./ft.?
@@TheRealMikeWilly
Yes, I would. Maybe it seems strange that, as many have mentioned, the torque spec is generally related to the thread diameter. For aluminum threaded holes, the holes are usually designed longer/deeper, than steel or iron holes. We had a rule of thumb on diameter-to-length ratio... just can't remember what it was.
Anyway, most of today's wheel hub bearings are threaded, and the steel bolts thread into the forged steel hubs.
You would need green or red or purple threat locker to have made that way harder to get off blue thread lockers is not very hard to removed jimmy @1ROAD
did you put any kind of oil or anti seize between hub and knuckle when assembling them, so it does not rust together from saltwater getting in there?
i had a hub go bad with NO noise while driving. very lucky i guess, when i went to replace the upper ball joint and cv axle, the hub was very loose and heat discolored.
I would put an antiseize compound on the ID of the hub and the OD of the bearing assembly. With the crap highways puts on roads to melt ice. This really corrodes parts and make a future replacement very difficult. Bolts and nuts should have a thread lock compound or antiseize applied, which are screwup prevention. Threads with a lubricant such as antiseize may need the torque reduced slightly, like 10%.
I dope everything with threads. Even wheel lugs. Never had one loosen. And never had anyone stop and help me get lugs loose on a roadside flat tire either. Even anti-seize on the back of the wheel were it contacts the rotor or brake drum. The older I get (60) the smarter I work.
@@martinmcquaide4807 Yes, years as a mechanic. Almost 70 now for me. ID of aluminium wheels and the hub to keep brake rotors from getting seized on. The calcium chloride is terrible for causing corrosion.
It's a 1995 vehicle and it just came out without any hammering. Just lifted it out of the knuckle. I think he's in a location where corrosion isn't a problem.
Great video. Glad you caught the torque spec. When you said 19 I started doing my own research, I knew that couldn’t be right. Don’t listen to the guys who are saying you shouldn’t have used loctite. I use it on hub bolts as an extra piece of mind. It’s not like the blue stuff permanently welds the bolt on like they’re saying
No but using a torque wrench after applying loctite is redundant. Wet torque is higher than what's indicated on the torque wrench
@@firstlast---
Many factory bolts come with locative already a[plied on them. I would rather put it on then have something come apart. It doesn’t hurt anything, just adds another layer of protection especially from being sued if something happens. It takes very little effort to add it. Those Turing anti seize onto bolts or grease, you’re just asking for it. I’ve seen the results of that having been done. It’s not pretty.
@@jbdragon3295 In my experience very few bolts have loctite from the factory, you will mainly see them in suspension components with aluminum knuckles. I do agree with you, loctite won't hurt, especially when it comes to one time use bolts on aluminum suspensions. I know some people on the internet would freak out on me for re using one time bolts but before you judge me call the dealership and see if they even have them in stock. 9/10 they won't because even their own technicians reuse the bolts and never have an issue
@@firstlast---
I reused 1 time bolts all the time without any issue. If I got them with the new deal part, great, I’d use them, but trying to get new bolts was never easy and a hassle to pick up. Plus customers don’t like that extra charge.
I worked for the company / supplier that forged both that hub & spindle. I recognized them from years ago…. If you look at the raw side of the forged hub it will have two different four digit numbers & letters forged on it. One is a heat code with two letters and two numbers to match the die and the steel that was used from a specific heat of steel. The other four are for that specific part number.
This one is fairly straightforward. The one on my ford focus is a nightmare you need a press to do it in a reasonable amount of time.
133 ft lbs sounds closer to the spindle nut than the bearing bolts
The CV axle nut is 165.
@@1RoadGarage Double Check on the Axle nut spec as well as I know on 99 and up the axle nut was revised to 177 lb. ft.
Not sure if it affected the older bearings.
133 ft lbs sounds like about a 1/2 - 9/16 bolt 6 radial lines or 12.2 on the 1/2 three lines or 8.8 on 9/16
Those 3 bolts get torqued to 133 ft-lbs, no question about it.
Threadlocker might have to harden for it to have an effect. Don't use red unless you plan to never remove the bolts, it is the most permanent and I hear you have to use heat to get it soft again.
Actually, you have to keep heating it over and over until they're out. Seems like a certain (high heat) breaks the bond but as soon as the temperature drops they lock in place again. Red is kind of a nightmare but it certainly has it's place...
@@dc6233 I heard thread locker described like a thermoplastic. It makes sense. I think that with blue and green that is not so much of an issue having to get the torch out.
They have an orange thread locker now. It's not considered permanent like red, but it's 3x stronger than blue. It's meant for larger fasteners up to 1.5" I believe. I use it on extremely important stuff like these wheel bearings. It's tough to break loose but nowhere near red, and doesn't require heat.
Honestly now that I really think about it, I'll probably never use red again since they have orange now. Red is a nightmare. If something needs to be permanent, it should be welded. If it has a fastener, it's meant to be fixed at some point which shouldn't be permanent. Orange just makes more sense.
Great video..thanks again
Good vid, I just replaced wheel hubs, not sure why you took the whole knuckle off though?
It was pretty obvious by the size of those bolts that 19lb/ft wasn't correct.
I once saw a chart on the web that listed torque specs based on bolt size and type.
I'm surprised that the new hub didn't come with new bolts.
Hubs never do, those bolts aren't stretch bolts like head bolts are
@@brandonpeterman9964 My Volvo hub came with new bolts for the hub a new axel nut and also the front rotors came with new caliper bracket bolts. Maybe it's a Swedish thing.
@@twig3288 Volvo is know for it's safety, I stay away from Volvo's as most people who drive them feel they are invincible!!
When you initially said 19 pound feet, I saw visions of your wheel and hub flying off on the highway.....😳
Can’t fly off as the Stub axle/cv joint won’t for through the hole in the knuckle but always better to make it sound more catastrophic for views!
Recently did the same job on a 98 S-10 and I'm pretty sure my shop manual said 90 ft lbs. Pretty much the same as my wheel lug nuts. Not surprised a larger vehicle like a Suburban is more.
learned the hard way. Double check the orientations!
Dude, just pay the $45 for a 5 year subscription to all data diy - probably went up
Does it include motorcycles?
Become friends with a shop owner and use identifix for free after hours
I'm about to look into this
One of my first dives into automotive diy. It was a good start because I ended up having to replace the other side as well as all new braking components, brake lines. It gave me practice for the next time it needs to be done. The checking your work before you go tearing off down the road is a good rule of thumb. In a hurry at replacing break pads I inadvertently put one pad backwards, with the metal backing plate being the stopping force instead of the pad. Smh.....I found out when I had to do a u-turn down the road and applied the brake. I drove a mile back home using E-brake to stop. No damage, I fixed and have been good since. Lol!!!
Glad it worked out ok, but man did you ever pick the worst part to begin your life as a DIYer. If you bone the brakes it's 🪦⚰️💀. Good presence of mind to use the hand brake 👍🏻👏🏻
@@jseal21 😂
Yes sir that right! That was great
I'm not a mechy but I like to do stuffs and talking about the 19 and 25 torque, I'm with you. I always doubt myself for something that sounds not correct for me and I always do a double check on everything I do. And, right now, I'm feeling a lil bit frustraded beacuse I've search from different ways about which engine oil should I put on my car as currently I'm using the synthetic 10W-40 oil and the car has now 120.000km. It's time to change the oil and I'd like to know if I can continue using this refence or should I change to another one. If I have to change it now, to what oil reference should I go?. Regards.
I never use thread locker. I use lithium grease on bolts... I have a few vehicles Thats used as a taxi... Wheel bearing are common job like every 100,000 miles.. when I go to take em back off it's a 30 min job👍
I'm only editing this to say I use lithium grease on everything, even on the wife. She doesn't like it 😜 but who cares!
Applying grease to threads throws off the torque values and results in over-torquing. All torque specs are assumed dry unless stated otherwise. BTW, thread locker actually helps stop bolts from seizing, it sealed up the thread which keeps the rust out.
Agreed. I use anti-seize on every suspension bolt. Properly tightened bolts don't need thread locker.
Just tighten to 7 uga-duggas. 😂
Haha
@@1RoadGarage
I've done a lot of stock and custom suspension work, I enjoy your content. It's really good. Your presentation and willingness to go back and fix a mistake that you could have just edited out are the type of honesty and good instruction that is lacking in other content.
@@member57
I appreciate the whole process being shown, also. His approach applies to life in general. Meta-instruction, as it were.
Subscribed. Love your channel.
There's also videos showing how to check for looseness in the bearings. Good catch on the bolt torques! Those bolts hold the hub to the knuckle. The axel half shaft may keep the hub from leaving the vehicle if the bolts fail but that nut secures the shaft to the hub and won't keep the hub in place. Not a bad idea to put a little anti seize on the new hub as they can be tough to remove later. Thanks for a good tutorial!
It's not the bearing "grinding"...yet. They are dry, the grease is mostly gone. You can see when you pulled the bearing from the knuckle that the grease seal is pushed out. Thread locker bad idea there Jimmy, well, at least for the next guy. Use Anti-seize there. YES! Please don't insult yourself by answering it might come loose. That's a major big steel bolt in an iron casting with lots of grip length and high torque. Put anti-seize on those, NOT Locktight. Geez. It would be better to put them in dry than use Locktight, the rust will hold them. Anti-Seize on all chassis bolts except brake caliper slide pins. Use Silicone or lithium grease there.
Well ya learn something new every day! 👍🤙
Loctite is the correct procedure . Loctite prevents rust. Factory hub bolts come pre-installed with antiseize. Antiseize is not a factory manufacture procedure at all, except on exhuast sensor threads. The only thing I'd use antiseize on this video would be between the hub and knuckle bore. I deal with bolts/lugs coming loose due to antiseize way to often at work from DIY/backyard. mechanics.
@@someyoungguy1923 Didn't know Loctite was rust inhibiting,
@@kenweller2032
It doesn’t act like, say, zinc inhibiting rust electrochemically. It just seals out water/salt, preventing corrosion.
Shame on you for not having your own factory svc manuals!😖 Available from Helm Publications.
When you hear a low groaning sound, while driving, and you want to test to see if you can figure out which bearing might be making it, you can turn the steering wheel left or right and listen for the sound to go away, or lessen noticeably. If the left hub is going bad, turning the wheels to the right will shift the weight of the vehicle harder into the left side bearing, sometimes causing the sound to lessen or go away completely. The same process works if the right side is going bad, turn the steering wheel to the left, as if making a turn. The weight of the vehicle shifting toward the bad bearing puts more force against the bearing on that side, reducing the gap in the bearing surfaces and quieting it down. This is not a guarantee, but if the bearing is just beginning to go bad, it has proven to work in some instances. Try this before tearing down the front end completely.
I found this worked on my 2001 Silverado years ago.
considering the fact that the lug nuts are usually 90 and above 130 sounds more likely. Also torque specs usually go by the bolt size and grade and most bolts that size are over a hundred. I wonder if that was newton meters.
I didn't learn why I should NEVER mess with it.
Discount ty re does a awesome job stripping your lug nuts 😜
But they told me that they don't replace those.
How about that 🤔
@One Road
If you were as smart as you try to make your viewers think you are, you would have installed all three bolts, tightened them to a solid snug tightness in a sequential fashion; then applied your torque wrench!!!
At that time; if you wanted to tighten them at 65lb ft then 130lb ft, that would be fine!
I hope your hub doesn’t fail with the way you are putting each bolt in then torquing them to 65lb ft!!!
What I learned by watching your video was absolutely how*NOT TO INSTALL A HUB ASSEMBLY!!!*
19 foot-pounds! Those same three bolts on my truck are 85 foot-pounds! Good job catching that!
you applied the locktite pretty good, that blue stuff generally is just to dampen vibrations to prevent backouts. the Redlock tight is a "permanent" locker and requires 500 degrees Farenheit to remove it.