Bleed Brake Master Cylinder While On Car WITHOUT Bench Bleeding Done Alone-No Partner!
Вставка
- Опубліковано 15 жов 2016
- So I was flushing the brakes after changing my pads and rotors. I figured it was time for new brake fluid. But I screwed up! On the last brake I was flushing, I forgot to keep the master brake cylinder reservoir topped off! In fact, I let the brake master cylinder run dry which meant I introduced air into the brake master cylinder. This traditionally would require uninstalling the brake master cylinder, connecting hoses to its bottom drain port lines and running those to the reservoir with the master brake cylinder clamped in a vice and then pumping in the piston with a screw driver to cause the brake fluid to move out of the brake master cylinder and into the reservoir which would flush out all air bubbles over time - this process being called a bench bleed to remove the air from the master cylinder. However, after extensive research, I discovered a little known method for bleeding the brake master cylinder while it is still on car and better yet, without having to remove ANY brake lines or hoses! You don't even need a brake master cylinder bleeder kit! All you need is 10ft of vinyl hose! You simply connect the hose up to the front left caliper bleeder nipple and then run the hose into the brake master cylinder fluid reservoir. Then you top off the reservoir and tape the hose in place if needed to ensure it doesn't come out. Now, you pump your brakes while making sure to keep the brake master cylinder reservoir topped off with fluid so you don't introduce more air into the system. Then, after pumping the brakes (never pumping the brake petal all the way to the ground but only 2/3rd of the way tops else you risk breaking the master cylinder - or so I read) you eventually see all of the air gone from your clear vinyl hose and just see fluid running through! Then you know you have successfully removed all air from the master cylinder. Well you need to keep going even after that just about 50 or so more pumps. The more pumps the better as you are enabling the master cylinder trapped air pockets to bubble and work their way out of the master cylinder over repeated patting of the brake petal over time. After this process is done, flush all the brakes at each of the 3 remaining wheels beginning with the rear right wheel, then the rear left wheel, then the front right wheel. You can do this with any brake bleeding method - gravity, partner, vacuum pump, pressure bleeding, etc. Once all brakes are fully bled, you should be back in business! My car brakes were PERFECT after this process. Also, as a side note, when flushing the fluid in the first step from the caliper and back into the reservoir, I put a coffee strainer on the end of the hose to ensure no particles got into the reservoir. Also, the fluid I was cycling back into the reservoir was new fluid as I had already flushed all my lines with new fluid 2 days prior. So the fluid was very clean still.
www.artbyrobot.com
/ artbyrobot
/ realistic-humanoid-robot
/ artbyrobot
/ artbyrobot
/ www
/ artbyrobot
To send me a one time donation: streamlabs.com/artbyrobot
To send me an automated monthly donation: / artbyrobot - Авто та транспорт
If this video helped you, please subscribe so I can keep putting out quality content like this!
I am sorry but would it not be more simple to remove your tires remove your brake pads use a c-clamp to compress your brake calipers therefore the system remains closed ,and any air that may have been in the system is expelled . replace your pads,replace your calipers your tires and lugs,check your fluid level.and reservoir cap for tightness pump your breaks until tight. your done.by using a c-clamp to compress the calipers. no need to bleed.same applies to flushing the system , i am sure you will figure it out from here.have a nice day and don't work so hard.
artbyrobot quick bleeder screws will save you a majot headache. You open the bleeder and pump the brakes until the air is out. They have a built in check valve and won't allow air to come back into the line
@leroy Okay this suggestion is absolutely genius and I would have never thought of it in a million years. My solution was outside the box but this solution is WAY outside the box and would work amazingly. I'm very impressed!
what the hell that is incredible! I didn't know that exists! Amazing suggestion man!
Seems to be extra work.. all the extra fluid to make it from caliper to reservoir.. a simple bleeder kit does the same thing with less fluid, just dump the fluid from kit to reservoir
"Man I hope this doesn't work, I don't wanna rob myself of the chance to do my first bench bleed," said no one ever lol, gj man
The reason why your brakes were still squishy after you bled the master cylinder is because earlier in the day when you were bleeding the last brake and accidentally ran out of fluid in the reservoir you introduced air into BOTH the master cylinder and into the rear wheel's brake line. Therefore you needed to bleed air out of BOTH the master cylinder and the brake line leading to the rear wheel. You could have remedied this problem by running a long hose from the rear brake to the master cylinder to bleed both the rear brake line and the master cylinder at the same time. If you didn't have a long enough tube to reach from rear of car to master cylinder you could take a short tube and attach it to rear brake bleeder and run it UP into a liquid filled container higher than the brake bleeder. Put the tube end into the liquid in this container. Most people put this container BELOW the bleeder height sometimes requiring around 40 stabs of the brake pedal to eliminate air bubbles. If you put the container ABOVE the bleeder height you will find that it takes 1-5 pumps to bleed the line completely. Please note that this second method will bleed the brake line only. Make sure you bleed the master cylinder by running the tube from either one of your front wheels to the master cylinder reservoir.-MARYLAND MOBILE MECHANIC-Johnpaul.
how about if you just keep the master cylinder topped up and catch the fluid ina reservoir out of a bleeder and just keep bleeding that way? wouldn't the master be rid of air eventually?.. unless im missing something?
How is the air actually leaving the MC with this method?
im gonna need alotta tube
@@jbbolts exactly 😂
@@miloo318 it aint
Thank you so much for this! I was a mess last night when I couldn’t get a firm pedal and tripped ABS light after replacing my calipers. Then I watched this and it worked like a charm.
Man thank you !!!! I did this and the brakes are fixed. I appreciate it.
Went to LOWES and got the 5/16 size hose . Same as yours in video . Did it in 10 minutes and all is good. First time ever doing any type of bleeding brakes.
It works.
I'll be doing it today lol
Question. So it'll bring all the air out the lines and master just from doing one caliper front driver side?
Tell us how you did it? What brake line did you use... drivers side front?
@@glassjoebiden5833 Did you get it figured out? I am in this same predicament at the moment.
I'm doing this tomorrow. Can any of you expand? do I need to do all the calipers or just the front driver's side? Did it work for you?
This method is more effective if you partially or fully fill the vinyl tube with fresh brake fluid first and make sure the tube is raised so that any air will rise away from the nipple. Otherwise, as you let off the brake peddle, air can be sucked back into the brake caliper. Just thought I'd mention that. . .
If you pump the brakes and watch the air going back into the master cylinder. You are correct. When you let off the pedal. All that air can be sucked back into the master cylinder. However…….if you pump the fluid and watch the air go into the master cylinder. You hold the pad Al down for about 5-10 seconds. This will allow time for the air to rise to the top of the master cylinder and pop the bubble.
I have bench bled the master cylinder only…..on the car by itself. On an older car, with the ability to see what was going on. I could see down to the bottom of the reservoir. The air bubbles need time to rise and pop. Letting off the pedal too soon doesn’t allow for that.
Also…….the fluid should be crystal clear if you can see it. When it is not. It means you have allowed moisture or old fluid or solvent contaminants into the system. When I cleaned my whole system. I flushed it out with brake clean and then compressed air to get rid on it. I forgot to compresses out the master cylinder. When the new fluid was put in. It contaminated with the solvent. I took apart the master cylinder and rebuilt it. Fluid has to be transparent
Thank you for posting this one. My pedal was hitting the floor after changing a front caliper line. I purchased an aquarium pump tube and also used the coffee filter. 2007 Tacoma.
Can you share the details of your experience please?
Thanks! Saved my butt as far as I can tell on a Subaru Forester. I messed up on the first bleed I tried instead of the last like you. I think it was good that I started on the front left.
Artbyrobot what a great video thanks for taking the time to make it.Took me about 30 minutes to do the master cylinder and all 4 calibers ...this method worked for me thanks for posting it.
I just wanted to leave a quick testimonial on how this video saved me in a pinch. I made the same move when changing just the P/S caliper of my 2008 Impala - I let all the fluid drain out. I couldn't get system pressure, and I thought I was screwed! While watching this vid, I walked to Home Depot and bought 20 ft. of 5/8" hose for $8 (cut to length). It took ALOT of pumping and patience, but it worked like a charm! Thanks, saved me alot of aggravation, time, and money.
I like your picture-in-picture video method. Great video!
"We did it!" is correct. It worked. Thanks Dude!
Hell yes after about 4 hours to remove brake booster then doing it again to put on a new master cylinder. I dreaded the thought of having to go through all of that pain and Agony to take the master cylinder off to bench bleed it. You saved me many hand cuts and taking my firearm and shooting my Mazda CX9. I will not pay hundreds of dollars for something I can do. It worked thanks a million. I went a step further and bleed all wheels using this method.😉😉😉😉
yes the consensus from the comments was to bleed all wheels with this method and I agree with it. Glad this video helped you!
@Mike Hey do you remember if you jacked up the car for the master cylinder is leveled first
Thanks for taking the time to film and post this. Theoretically I think that you were actually still only bleeding the front left line and in the process getting the air that you may have introduced into the master. The main thing that you accomplished with that loop was to recycle the fluid so that you didn't have to keep refilling or buying more fluid. For anyone that is thinking of doing this, you should make sure to flush all your lines first to get all the old fluid out so that you don't recycle the old fluid back into the master. The coffee filter was definitely a good thing to catch any debris. As you found that once you got that large quantity of air out, the was still air in the other lines and you still needed go back and re-bleed at each wheel, starting with the farthest from the master (back right). The other potential issue is that the air in the "closed loop" line was getting fed back into the master, so if it was a true closed loop the air wouldn't actually escape, so you need to make sure that the looped line is positioned in the master in such a way that the air can escape and doesn't get trapped, thus defeating the purpose. In theory, you could actually create that closed loop at each wheel and bleed the whole system that way, however again I stress that you should probably flush the old fluid first and definitely use a filter.
I watched the entire video... You are aware he was flushing his brake system beforehand and was on the drivers side "the last wheel" when he ran the cylinder dry, right? That would mean the system has all new fluid right? And wasnt the large quantity of air nothing more than air that is in the hose when you buy it off the shelf? What is the "closed loop" you are referring too...The hose he bought or something in the brake line system?
No need to recycle that old garbage fluid
@@j-deezy321thats not the recycling hes talking about ,lol
5/16 OD 3/16 ID size vinyl. Awesome video I love good research from DIY guys.
I messed up the brakes in my '12 BMW 650i exactly the same way you did. Got it fixed following your method. Brakes operate like new now - Thank You!
Awesome, glad the video helped!
Can you tell me what brake caliper you bleed from that fixed your problem?
@@miloo318 Front, Left. The one closest to the reservoir.
Will do mine tomorrow,to sore to finish putting all new brake lines,looks good to me,thx for video.
Couldn't figure out why my calipers weren't releasing and my pads just stuck to rotor- this was the solution. Thanks for the vid and safe traveling!
Have 93 Honda Accord brake calipers locking up Wonder if I have to do the same thing to get them to release
Hi this is very helpful , sometimes I have had air reintroduced from the threads of old or sloppy bleeder screw , in a quick fix till getting a new bleeder screw some mechanics put grease round the screw threads to stop the air getting sucked in when bleeding .
Legend! Thanks so much, you saved me! I made the same mistake and let the reservoir get too low when flushing my brake fluid. This method works brilliantly and so quick. Cost me $5 for some nylon tube. I really thought I was going to have to get it towed to a mechanic to remove the master cylinder and bench bleed it. Thanks again
even if it did have to be bench bled, that is very DIY-able. I am DONE with mechanics. Finding an honest or at least low charging mechanic is like finding a unicorn. I had one once but he got too old and slow at getting cars back to me. Had to wait 6 months to get my car back from him once LOL.
Please tell me how you did it :)
@@miloo318i think thats what the video is for,lol
Thanks for this video! Got me out of a jam and was much easier than the route I was going to take!
Cool man! I might need to do this on my frontier. What a suspense to watch... was waiting for that celebratory remark. Thanks again and all the best to your channel
Jomar, you did this and it worked? Do you have ABS? Did you have to do anything with the ABS system?
Thank you, thank you, thank you. I just did this on my old 2983 Lima Ranger. It worked like a boss! And this is coming from someone who if he came anywhere near the shade tree, he kill it.
That a 1983 Ranger. Tech ain’t my thing either.
Got caught like you with air trapped in the master cylinder of my mazdaspeed3 during the process of changing brake pads all around. Vehicle was parked in a remote outdoor location which added to my dilemma. Was a bit skeptical at first. Ended up trying it out of pure desperation and it worked great! Just had to go through the process with both front calipers in order to get the brake pedal up. Thanks.
Now possible way to introduce air changing pads.
Kudos ! A clever workaround to removing master cylinder. Just a thought, if there is access you can do a so-called bench bleed on the car, using the same bench bleed tubes as you would on your workbench, or do it by loosening the tubing connections to the M/C with the help of an assistant on the pedal, and lots of rags wrapped around the fitting, but being careful to not release the pedal until the fitting is closed. Of course you would do each half of the M/C separately. 4 or 5 strokes ought to do it.Also you are the first I have seen on UA-cam that shows any concern for introducing debris into the M/C.The coffee filter is ingenious, I will start using one.I'm surprised at how many UA-cam videos start out with removing a protective screen, which invariably does not get replaced until they are all done.Nice Job Art.
Mike, I did the same damn thing, I got distracted and missed refilling my brake reservoir causing it to run empty while pumping brakes. I have a spongy brake pedal now, which I didnt have beforehand. Can I use your method to get the air out of the brake cylinder, with the cylinder remaining on the car (Jeep Wrangler)? Im not sure this will resolve my issue bc I do have ABS and im reading something about having to bleed that too! Plus, I have since learned pushing the pedal all the way to the floor can and will damage the piston seal. I did this many times in an attempt to get all air out of the system on my brake flush.
I was able to restore full hydraulic pressure to my brake system because of this video thank u for making it! I already knew I wouldn't have to replace my master, as the reservoir never fully depleted, so no air got into the master cylinder. All I had to do was get the hose (5/16 OD 3/16 ID), and ran it to the baffle in the reservoir. My brother pumped the brakes while I slowly added a small amount of fluid, and amazingly the fluid coming from the reservoir was already immaculate, to the point that once the process was complete I simply drained the hose back into my brake fluid container. Thinking about doing the others just to be certain there's no air in the system whatsoever but I'll have to wait till the weekend lol
Bad idea. You should never reuse brake fluid. It may look clean but it definitely has absorbed moisture from the air and small particles are in it from the brake system.It's cheap, so toss the old fluid.
Thanks for posting this video. I did exactly what you did on my 66 mustang. After market master cylinde whicj i was not able to bench bleed so my brakes were not working. I got the hose at home depot for $5.00 and now my brakes works perfect
AMAZING! Comments like this are so gratifying after making the effort to put out a DIY video!
Hi dude. I have just done this in my Fiat Palio and yes, it worked!!!. After doing this I flushed the rest of the calipers to eliminate the rest of old break fluid ... Thanks so much!!!
great job on the video. enough details to accually make sense!
Great video... I had the exact same problem and searched for a solution. Most suggestions were to remove the master cylinder to resolve the trapped air issue. ABSOLUTE NONSENSE and obviously the dealerships want you to believe this so you won't try it yourself. This man had the right idea with bleeding the MC from the nearest hub, but an even easier option, rather than looping back to the reservoir, is to just let the fluid run into a bottle like you would normally do when bleeding and continually top up the MC. A couple of depressions of the brake pedal and gravity will do the rest for you. You might need to bleed the other brakes in the normal order to make sure all air is expelled but this method most DEFINITELY WORKS!
Heck there are people out there that install master cylinders dry and just get the air out by bleeding the wheels and it works fine,might take a little longer.
Brilliant solution! Best part of video was your elation, at the end.
I tried this and it works PERFECTLY! Brakes feel like a new!!!
Did u have to bleed the other 3 side?
Thanks a lot bro, this trick really work, I was already throwing in towel and came up on ur video so I gave it a try.. work out good👍
We did it!! Thank you so much man! Just did this after a ton of work and almost having to buy a new master cylinder and bench bleed. Awesome video man. Saved me a lot of money👌
awesome job man, great idea..gonna do it this wk end..thanks for the tip!!
i didnt realize the logic of this simple contraption/concept. Thanks dude!
I had a similar experience to yours, letting the level get too low while bleeding. Your system worked like a charm. Thanks
working on my car is my way to relax my mind from the outside world..and while working or troubleshooting the car, stumble upon a new and much easy technique to do that particular job is really satisfying.. isn't it?😄
true
I have replaced rotors and pads multiple time always successful. This time I also replaced calipers, so I had to do a lot more bleeding and, in the process, introduce air to the master cylinder. Thought I'd give your method a try, but it didn't fix the soft pedal. I had to bleed the master cylinder which I did in the car. I wasn't sure it was going to work because after removing the fittings from the master cylinder bleed kit a lot of oil was draining out before I could get the lines installed. After bleeding all 4 again I have a firm pedal and brakes are strong. I did use your tip and purchased 3/16 ID tubing which fits the bleed screw without leaking. Using the 3/16 tubing and a hole drilled in the cap of a power aid bottle sitting on top of a cinder block to get it above the bleed screw. This setup made bleeding easy without a helper. This one went 10 rounds, but I won. Thanks for your tip.
When you removed the bleeder fittings from the master cylinder, that stuff you saw leaking is just remnants of whats left in the holes, technically you can get a brand new booster and fill it to the brim with fluid and it might weep a little but its not gonna empty on you (unless you leave it sitting over night), once you start using that plunger it opens the ports and then, oh yeah, you'll have fluid everywhere.
The bowels of a master cylinder are a lot bigger than people think ,there's a lot of fluid in there.
I did the same thing you did on my 2002 Blazer LS air in the MC. I will try this method in your video as soon as I can get back to it and will let you know how it worked, Thanks !
How did it go?
thanx for a great video did same thing with my brakes and it worked for me thanx again ,your video is the only one i have found on if you run master dry so good job
Thanks for the video. It saved me a lot of grief!
Nice job man. I like how the master cylinder didn't have to be removed.
Many thanks for this. I think I have air in my ABS unit, but this will help eliminate the MC as the culprit
Thank you for the video, great job.
Great - a guy who say righty tighty (25:11) is teaching me a thing or two about car brakes, Thanks
I followed your procedure after I replaced the master cylinder. I did this on all 4 wheels. I did not use any other bleeding methods. I could see the bubbles in vinyl tube went through and then disappeared. Thank you so much !!! It worked perfectly on my Toyota Corolla 2007 LE US edition.
I bought 2 Russell 639750 speed bleeder. I placed one on front driver and the other rear passenger. The remaining two bleeders are regular bleeders. The Russell speed bleeders work much better than the regular bleeders. But they are very fragile. If you over tight, it will break. The regular bleeders will not break if you over tight. it could not be better on my Toyota Corolla 2007 LE
However, I tried your method on my other car: Toyota Corolla 2011 LE. I did not replace the master cylinder on this car. I did replace two bleeders with Russell 639750 speed bleeders: one front driver and one rear passenger. I used your method a bleeding method. The bubbles disappeared after I pressed 30 times/each wheel on the front wheels. It worked perfectly on the front wheels.
I TRIED THE SAME WAY ON THE REAR WHEELS. THE BUBBLES WERE SMALLER AND SMALLER. BUT THE BUBBLES WERE STILL IN THE VINYL TUBES AFTER 500 TIMES/EACH WHEEL. CAN YOU EXPLAIN WHAT I DID WRONG? PLEASE NOTE THAT REAR DRIVER IS A REGULAR BLEEDER, REAR PASSENGER IS A RUSSELL 639750 SPEED BLEEDER. MANY THANKS. I FEEL THE BRAKE IS A LITTLE SOFT WHEN I PRESS THE BRAKE PEDAL. NO OBVIOUS SIGNS OF OTHER BRAKE PROBLEMS: NO BRAKE FLUID LEAKING, NO BRAKE PAD WEAR, NO BREAK NOISE, BRAKE PERFORMANCE EXCELLENT THOUGH SOFT FEEL, NEW BRAKE FLUID.
Russell speed bleeder 639750: www.amazon.com/Russell-639570-Speed-Bleeder/dp/B000CPCOB6/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Toyota%7C76&Model=Corolla%7C1013&Year=2007%7C2007&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&s=automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=automotive
Sounds to me like there is air getting in at the connection with the hose and the bleeder. It would be a good idea to spread silicone grease around all joints to block off any air from entering and I believe this should solve it.
Just gave this a try. It did not work perfectly, but I was also doing it on a brand new master cylinder. It did make a marked improvement though, I think a good gravity bleed would take all of the air out of my system at this point. Thanks for the video.
Did you get your brakes fixed back to normal? Exactly what is the gravity brake bleed method?
Thank you! This method really works :) After changing and bleeding mc on the car i had spongy brake pedal. Now it`s fine :)
Man your method is the BEST... imagine bleeding the MC and each wheel in 4 minutes .... no more air bubbles in the brake system at all... total time bleeding 4 wheels 20 minutes including smoking cigarette and drinking Pepsi .... i can't believe i am done in that short time and having excellent result... perfect brack... i wasted my money buying vacuum shitty tool. again Thank you.
Thanks man. this vid was a life saver. Blew 2 lines the other day. Replaced all the lines cylinders and calipers. My master needed priming and this saved me a lot of grief.
Thanks! Great idea! Can't wait to give it a try.
i subscribed just because of the quality of the information in this video
Hi Art,Great Just did mine,but my hose was miles shorter than yours (had a job getting that first LOOONG bubble into the res.
Eventually got there..and all the rest followed easy. It's a hairs breath between shut and open on the bleed screw though ;)
Gotta bleed my 3 other wheels,Great tutorial Art.
Cheers Again Phil,Liverpool UK
Howzit genius. End of bench bleed unless you want to remove and replace master. Brilliant idea. Two points i like to add to this procedure. Shorten the tube a bit. Prime the tube most of the way with fluid before attaching to nipple and reservoir. Im busy with trying to figure out why my pedal drops after a while on the road. Still brakes ok though. All wheels bled. Still same. No leaks. Booster and master fine. Will now try this new master bleed method and see how it goes. Its a ford ranger 2.2 diesel. Your method makes absolute sense even without the presentation. Thank you mr einstein. From south africa.
do it to all wheels though
great video..i just change my brake master cylinder/reservoir so i will be using this method to bleed the MC.
Great let me know how it goes!
Very clever. Gonna give it a try. Thanks for sharing.
9:55 that moment of excitement......I felt that! Thank you for this. Socks and flops though. Lol.
Worked like a champ. Thanks
Thanks!!! I had a caliper (driver's front) The seals blew and poured all the fluid out of the master cylinder. I attached a hose to both front calipers and back to the master cyl, I watched the air going through the tubing, the tubing only cost $6 at home depot. WORKED GREAT!!! 2015 Dodge Charger,,, tip for ya,,, When I crack a bleeder loose for the first time, I quickly take it all the way out, put some anti-seize on the threads, and tighten as usual. Use a 6 point wrench on them,, NEVER broke one!
that is a fantastic tip!
I have a 2005 997 Porsche Carrera. I had my calipers rebuilt and polymer coated. I also added new rotors and changed my flexible brake lines. After reassembly, I used my Motive System to bleed the brakes. After four rounds of bleeding, the pedal still did not feel right. I used this method, as I had no one to help me. The Porsche calipers have two bleed valves per caliper. I bled the front four. I pumped the pedal until there was continuous fluid in the clear hose. You can see the air and feel the difference in the pedal. It took many presses of the pedal to achieve the continuous fluid, however, it did work to get all the air out of the system. Thanks.
Awesome sounds like I helped someone! :)
The Motive Power bleeder is a great bleeder. I purchased one just to use on my C2 and C3 Corvettes years back because they are some of the worst cars to bleed. It came with the same adapter just for the 2nd and 3rd generation Corvettes. Power bleeders mount to the top of a Master Cylinder. Comes with a large plastic bottle that fills with brake fluid. Has a pump and gauge. You pump the bottle up to a certain pressure. Can't remember the pressure but I believe it is 20 pounds as of the moment and just let it sit under the hood. You then use a bottle and clear hose and take it from wheel to wheel. Put the hose on your bleeder screw, a box wrench to your bleeder and bleed away. Sometimes you can bleed the whole car without having to pump the plastic cylinder again. They are great but you need too many adapters today if you want to use it on many vehicles the reason I vacuum pump all other vehicles I work on today.
@@ffas23 can you plz msg me at 6099705936
I did this from the only bleeder valve I had not stuck my rear passenger and it worked awesome...
Same results when you use a Mt. Dew bottle with a short tube, hanging from the shock bolt. No need to run the tube all the way up to the master cylinder. It does work good and only takes 1 person to do it.
yes, however, my aim was to do small brake pumps to churn up and remove the air over the course of moving say 5 gallons of fluid through the system. That would be a LOT of reservoir top-ups using the bottle method whereas using my method you get auto reservoir top-ups.
dude this was an amazing video you saved me so much money thanks a bunch
Just gave you a subscribe. Just did this myself today. Took calipers off to paint them, went to flush the brake fluid, got caught up in the one man flush/bleed, forgot to add more to the reservoir.
I was already on the right track. Started pumping all the air out, but then figured that I should see if it makes any bit of difference, or if a trip to the shop was in order.
Glad you had the same issue I had. I think I got all the air out. Brakes feel pretty similar to what they were, I think.
I'm glad this video helped you. Yeah you pretty much just have to bleed it to a massive amount of gallons bled to slowly work every last bubble out of the system.
Thanks you for making this video!
I melted my stock brake pads at the track, front pistons popped out and no brake fluid.
The car is still under warranty and I know the dealer would not warranty what ever needed doing...
So I decided to do my first brake job. After the first bleed, I could drive it but it was spongy.
Bleed, drive, hit ABS, Bleed. I did this 3 times and no real improvement.
I then tried this method on the Left Front and bled the other 3 wheels. That gave a 10% improvement.
Back to Home Depot to buy a 20 ft cable so I could reach all 4 wheels.
I did the LF, RF, RR, LR, then repeated the LF and RF.
After I saw no bubbles and a solid line of fluid in the hose. I did 50 more pumps.
Now I have my brakes back!
I really do think a 20 ft cable is the best because you can check the entire length of the hose to make sure there are no bubbles.
Thanks!
this was amazing thank you soo much, also i used pneumatic tubing and that worked as well. used a small piece of surgical tubing to connect to the nip
Thanks for the great video and tips. Couple of points I'd like to add: Even if you messed up the original task & got air into the lines, I think it was really worthwhile replacing all the used fluid with new. I wouldn't like any old fluid recirculating back into the master cylinder. The seal on the main piston is too important to risk damage so the coffee filter was a good idea but there's also rust, moisture and other grime in solution to consider - a $2 generic inline fuel filter might also have worked well there. I have a "new old stock" master cylinder for an old vehicle about to fit. The reason for the replacement is the old cylinder seal got worse after it was actuated too far on a previous brake bleed. In that case, (& the main reason we're warned against fully depressing the pedal) there was most likely a ridge formed in the old cylinder over which the seal was scraped as it rammed past, ruining it. A final point: As brake fluid is quite hygroscopic (absorbs water from the surrounding air), the whole time I kept seeing your new fluid bottle with its lid off! I wish you'd capped it between top-ups. It's the other reason the master cylinder has a sealed lid - we shouldn't leave it open to the air for too long and preferably, choose a day of low relative humidity to do a job like this. Thanks again.
HELL YEA!! Good JOB...That's using your head...I work on cars, and I applaud your response...I'm going to look up Hygroscopic...Thank you for thinking of ---> "Action Reaction" We need a lot more thinking in our Country ...God Bless"
I was unaware of pressing the brake pedal down too far on the brake flush/bleed job I did on my jeep and I know I pushed that pedal to the floor many times while bleeding. I follow Chris Fix and he gave me the confidence to do the job, but he makes no mention of the importance of this action. I did introduce air into the cylinder and that is why im here on this post. Im praying the spongy pedal I have is resolved by getting the air out of he system and doesnt require me to replace the brake cylinder. :(
@@miloo318 to be fair, I suspect that's only an issue on older cars like mine (a 1980 WB Holden) which probably still had the same master cylinder for 37 years before I replaced it. After so many years of the piston bearing against the same section of cylinder wall, it creates a ridge at the top of travel, not dissimilar to the combustion cylinders where the pistons reach TDC.
Btw, that new cylinder has made a huge difference because it also prevents air entering the lines like the old one used to - so the brakes haven't needed bleeding for years now. I also treated myself to a vacuum bleeder kit - a simple hand-operated vacuum pump that makes one-man brake bleeding a lot easier. I already had a one-man kit which was basically a short length of tubing with a one-way valve but the way I stow it in a jar between bleeds means it's retained a tight curl and now requires weighting to keep it vertical and in a jar (I cut a hole in a plastic lid insert to hold it in place). Mainly, the biggest issue that I have with the one-man kit is needing to be at the pedal rather than the bleed screw so I have to trust that levels are right - that I'm not overflowing and/or the bubbles are all out as well as trusting that the reservoir level hasn't dropped too low. With the vacuum pump, you just draw out the fluid and air and even though you can't see what's happening at the cylinder end, you have more confidence that everything is ok because you can clearly see how much fluid is being drawn out. It's also less hassle and much quicker to do the job.
@@TechNed Thank you for your response. I hope you are right that one brake bleeding episode doesnt ruin a brake cylinder. I do have a spongy brake so I am hoping if I can get the master cylinder bled I will be in good shape. Some are talking about bleeding a proportional valve that is in some way affiliated with the ABS to resolve spongy brake. Who knows!
It is possible to draw air from loosened bleeder at caliper, put heavy bearing grease around threads at caliper bleeder, prob solved!
A definite thumbs up. Very well done. Very well described. Good video... I was hoping that at the end of the process you would show the coffee filter with residue. Do that next time :) I will probably do this to my master cylinder when I have time... I'm about 2 inches spongy and bled all wheel cylinders two times now.
I already did a standard brake bleed prior to this video which is where I accidentally let the reservoir run dry and introduced air into the master cylinder. During that bleed, any loose debri was already purged so the amount of debri that got into my coffee filter was negligible.
Even if you didn't need to bleed the master, just cycling the fluid thru the coffee filter to collect any debree should be a good maintenance thing to do. Thank you for uploading this.
Just started to watch this and I would say straight off you tend to get air bubbles suspended in the fluid at the bleed nipple and these may take a long time to get out if you pump them back in.
This worked wonders for me thanks for the video 😁👍 it didn’t even take me 30 minutes about 10 minutes maybe
If I understand well, you are simply applying the communicating vessels principle: by keeping the hose full of fluid AND above the level that's inside the master cylinder, you are forcing the air inside this system to come above. You can actually just fill the hose with fluid and insert it tight at the bottom of a jar filled with fluid located at the same level as the master cylinder, then pump the brakes a few times (perhaps even just keeping the brake pedal depressed would allow the air to come above). As others mentioned here, it may be good to repeat the same at one rear wheel (just place the jar above the wheel but at the same level from the ground as what the master cylinder is located), to bleed the rest of the master cylinder. Don't hesitate to correct me if you think I'm wrong.
It is my understanding that you are repeatedly pressing the brakes hundreds of times which churns up trapped air inside the master cylinder and you are moving that air bubble filled fluid down and out through the caliper nipple and then it ends up back in the reservoir where the trapped air bubbles surface and leave the fluid. Over time, all the air escapes according to this path. Just depressing the pedal would not work.
Awesome. Thank you for tbjs great visual and tutorial
Brilliant, i will be doing this on my car!
Was getting ready to remove my master cylinder after air got in when replacing all 4 calipers... Came across this video and it worked like a charm!! I couldnt believe it, saved me the headache taking the MC off for a bench bleed.
Leo, Tell me how you did it, please. I got air inn my MC the same ay he did. I dont want to take the cylinder off. He bleed only from the drivers side to get the air out of the MC, Did you do the same thing since you replace all four calipers?
@@miloo318 Hey, ya I did the same thing he did. Ran a CLEAR hose from whichever caliper was closest to the MC, Front Driver's for me, making sure the seal was tight on the bleeder valve and then crack the valve open. I then stuck the other end of the hose as deep as I could without forcing in the reservoir for the MC, I taped this end on to make sure it stayed in place. The I Slowly pumped the brake pedal, just make sure you keep an eye on the MC fluid level and top up when it gets low making sure to never let it go lower than the opening of the hose.
Took some time before I started seeing the air gaps in the hose but once I did I just kept slowly pumping the pedal until I saw no air bubbles for a good 10 - 15 pumps... whole process took around 20 minutes.
Also, don't press the pedal all the way down to the floor... I was stopping about 3/4 way down.
After that I just bleed the rest of the lines using the one man bleeder while never letting the MC empty.
@@leodoiron9106 I will heed your advice moving forward but I have already mashed the pedal to the floor many times when bleeding my brake system. I realize now I may have ruined my brake cylinder. Chris Fix ( I subscribe to him and his video gave me the confidence to tackle this project) never talked about this in his how to brake bleeding video. How far along were you, (what wheel were you on) during your bleeding process when you failed to put fluid in the reservoir? I had bled my right rear, left rear and was on passenger (right) front when I ran out of fluid in the reservoir.
Thanks for this video man! Saved me a lot of headache!
Outstanding, that's what I'm doing this week
Worked perfectly. Took a lot of foot pumps but it worked perfectly on my 2014 Ram 1500 5.7. Thanks
Thanks! Seems to have done the trick for my 2005 Chevy Silverado. I only did the front, driver's side after bleeding all the rest using "the old method", but plan to go around and do this on all four when I have time. Thanks again ... it makes perfect sense.
You're welcome!
worked great for me , much respect
You can also leave the master cylinder on and bench bleed with your hands by disconnecting the two lines and having someone press & hold the brakes, and the tightly press two fingers over the master cylinders brake-line output holds while putting strong pressure while the helper let's off the brakes to prevent air coming in. Rinse and repeat and you will eventually see no air bubbles coming out past your fingers.
Takes about 15-30 pump & holds!
Never did this method, but I guess I could find some crystal clear silicone fuel tubing with zip ties over tube on bleeder screws.
This worked like a d@mn charm. Huge save for me after I stupidly sucked air into the master. Many thanks!
I bought a 99 jeep grand cherokee cheap that had no brakes whatsoever. Master cylinder has been completely dry for some time. Now that I have replaced all 4 rotors, brake pads and one caliper along with the two new brake lines I will have to give this a shot.
You could accomplish the same thing by attaching a short length of hose to the caliper and put the other end into a bottle with enough fluid to submerge the end of the hose. As you filled the bottle you could just close the bleeder and empty the bottle back into the master. No need to fill up that long hose. That is actually a great way to bleed each caliper.
You can probably add a inline filter to the tubing. I wpuld probably bench bleed any ways (without kit) prior to this method and since i have a civic with 2 calipers, i can probably do both at the same time. I dont think ive ever had my brake fluid that airless before. Gonna be a good braking experience.
Great ideal, u can either fold the hose, or put vice grips on the hose, anyway good video.
This worked perfectly on a 2005 Chevy Cobalt LT 2.2 liter! I did all four wheels, starting farthest from the master cylinder, and working forward.
I replaced a master cylinder in this customer's car and had what I finally guess was just air in the lines and hopefully not a bad booster. Sure enough, it was just air and this method solved it! Thank you!
Thanks for this information on bleeding brakes. Going to do this tomorrow when my new cylinder comes in.
I have a 2015 Bmw Z4 and this method saved my Ass..same ole not watching the fluid level in reservoir mistake...when i did it though..i filled the tube up with fluid first..i was pumping a long time before the air started to move though...but it did!
nice great job!
just used this method, works great
Gonna try this tomorrow will hope for same results
Thanks, will give it a try.
I have replaced all my bleeder valves with speed bleeders. They have a one-way valve inside so fluid goes out, but air doesn't go back in. You put them in just like regular bleeder valves. To bleed, you loosen 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn, put a vinyl hose on the valve as usual, and pump the brakes. No 2nd person needed.
I just replaced a broken brake line. After I bled the brakes, I still have pedal to the floor. I'll try bleeding the MC, and re-bleed the brakes.
Me too. They're fantastic.
Awsome man I'm sooo tryin it!
Thanks for the suggestion! I bench bled the replacement master cylinder, then after installing, used your technique to finish up the process.
I'm really hoping this works for me too, as when I replaced the wheel studs on my century I took off the wrong bolts on the caliper, along with loosening the bleeder, both of which were unnecessary. That model of Buick has two other bolts that hold on the bracket that attaches the brake system to the rotor and I went in all gung ho thinking I knew what I was getting myself into 😂...I lost quite a bit of fluid but not so much that I depleted the reservoir, so I'm going to try this method when my brother gets back from the store
Did it work?
I may try this method but I plan to use a vacuum pump to suck the air from the cap. I got a cap from the junkyard and plan to modify it with a barb fitting so I can hook up my homemade vacuum pump to it.
“Thumbs up” for the coffee filter trick! 😎🇩🇪🚙
Yep. My Tahoe sat for a few years and the brake fluid was very low in the master I can't see it. So this video is for me.