Audi A8 D4 Front Wheel Bearing Replacement
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- Опубліковано 4 вер 2017
- I replaced the front wheel bearings in my 2012 A8L due to bearing noise that was most noticeable around 90 KPH (55 MPH)
Here is a related service bulletin;
www.cars.com/articles/2009-20... - Авто та транспорт
Just wanted to comment and say that this video was a great help when I was doing the wheel bearing on my 2015 SQ5. Its an identical setup minus the air suspension. Thanks for taking your time and doing this video!
Thanks for going through the trouble of recording this. Very helpful. Much appreciated.
Great video. Very clear and precise. I hope the bearings in my 2013 A8L won't have any issue but just in case, I will have your video to follow.
Nice video, I have looked at a few, your method of removing the remain part of the bearing and pressing the new bearing is great,
I gave mine to a shop who has an hydrolic press. Next time I try your method.
Thanks for sharing
Right now I'm replacing the cv axle and bearing on my 2002 A4 and I had to heat up the bearing aswell to take them out, such a pain to fix but very fun cars to drive!
Great vedio , camera is superb , I thought you’ll remove the four bolts before you start pulling but this is new to me and I’m thankful , I’ll be doing the same job once I’ll get the parts for 2010 Audi A4
Excellent video. I have an a7 that needs a rear bearing. Very informative.
Thanks. A lot of models use this same bearing front and rear.
Thanks man. Same job on my A8 2005 tomorrow :) Big help!
Thanks. I have not done this on a D3 before, just the D4
I just did this job on my S4. I bought new hubs and pressed them into the new bearing modules with my ball joint press. Then after removing the four XZN bolts securing the bearing to the knuckle, one whack with a 3LB hand sledge on the bottom portion of the old hub and it came right off.
Great Vid. Doing my buddies A7 which is the same. The bearing assembly was the bear! getting it out of the knuckle was a job! Northern NY where salt and sand are on the roads 6 months out of the year lol
I was in Ontario at the time of this video and yep the salt and sand really suck.
i'm glad you didn't burn your fingers after you heated the bolt then held it with bare fingers.
Thanks for sharing this ,very helpful
Thanks for this interesting video!
Mike, I trust you. We share the same name and this is the first time I've seen kroil in a video. I thought that was my secret.
Great video
The first thing I do is loosen the axle bolt on the ground, wheel on. I usually have to use a long breaker bar and stand on it. I have always removed the axle itself but that’s because I’m pressing the hub off with a hub-tamer (axle would be in the way). I like the slide hammer, it’s stressing the bearing but who cares it’s getting tossed anyway.
Great video! Thanks! Where did you get torque specs from by the way? All Data?
Thanks. Yes, the specs came from alldatadiy.com.
Did you have any ABS issues with the new bearing, I have replaced mine with after market SKF bearing and i don't think they have the magnetic encoder ring on the back side of the bearing.
I have not had any ABS issues so far.
Good video. I would like to say ,. You don't really need any of them puller tools , all one needs is a Vice and use a bolt (one the old bolts that fit the hub to the car ) screw bolt into hub unit it will separate unit as you thigten it down the bearing race can then be worked off with a small flat chisel . Use the old bearing race, put in the vice to pull unit back together. Sorry I am not very good at explaining therory .
And I thought it was the cv axle. Well I’m going to be ordering a pair now
Where Did you purchase the Parts? You said you were in Canada at the time of this video. I’m just wondering if you ordered them online or not. The dealer is charging an arm and leg but I’m sure I can get an OEM for cheaper.
Ebay has loads.just bought mine
andrew19682008 yea I seen that later I got mine off of EBay as well
unfortunately i stripped 1 of the 4 triple square bolts for the wheel bearing. I already spent 2 days on getting it out and still stuck. Access behind is limited. any tips?
Sorry to hear. Maybe drill it out from the hub side?
Where and how did you place your A8L on axle stands.. considering most of the car has soundproofing trim underneath which covers the subframes?
Hi I was using a scissor lift for this repair and did not use stands.
Thank you. Can you suggest how to place the car on axle stands and a workaround the under body trim? Removing the trim before putting on stands is proving to be a challenge for me.
@@neeldub53 a pair of these would work; www.amazon.com/dp/B003ULZGFU/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_DP1VCbP8VVSPP. Only other option is perhaps raising the car via the control arms and putting the stand under the jack pad. Not sure how feasible this option is so please confirm before attempting.
@@mikesgarage1518 Many thanks
great video, i just did an a5 but when put back together the abs is on tc and parking brake warning came on ,would this be because abs signal was interrupted or maybe knocked it somehow?.
Thanks. Are you able to scan the car to see which wheel speed sensor is giving the error? Or clear the codes and see if they come back?
thanks for the reply, it came up n/s/f sensor which is the same side as i changed the bearing.
i can scan and cancel code and see if it comes back cheers.
What was the cleaning tool you used to clean up your hubs? I want to purchase it
Brighton Boudreaux Hi I used 3M Roloc bristle discs and AirCat angle grinder
Mike's Garage thanks so much mike. I got a 2005 A8L that I’m going to start hacking away at. Wish me luck! She’s beautiful at only 35,000 miles but needs a little love in the areas of suspension due to spending a portion of its life where it snows 🙄
Hi there. Do you know the oem part number for the wheel bearing? Thanks great job!
Audi part number is 4H0498625F
Mike, one of the most challenging portions of this job is removing the bearing flange from the knuckle (the other is the axle bolt) , why didn't you show the air chisel technique as that is by far the most effective (imo slide hammers are not the way to go here) . Especially for Midwestern states with salt usage during the winter months. Nice technique with the jack screw to bring the bearing and oem hub together; btw, the oem hub is worth the effort as it is far better quality control than the aftermarket hubs. Thanks for the vid.
Hi I missed hitting the record button when I did this and the other side was already done. This car has seen tons of salt so removing was not easy but once I got a small gap I used the air chisel but the knuckle can get damaged pretty easy.
I used a small hatchet and a hammer 🤷♂️
Do i need to get a front end alignment after the new bearing is replaced?
If you don't remove the knuckle or tie rod end, you should not need an alignment, although IMO having it checked after any front end work is not a bad idea.
@@mikesgarage1518 thanks
I need to do this on my wife’s car do they hub and bearing cone pre assembled?
@Hitman the bearing assembly bolts to the knuckle but the hub presses into the bearing assemble. hope this helps
I've just bought as a complete hub and bearing for a5 3.0tdi. Under £40 so whatever that works out in dollars.
Axle bolt- loosen with the wheel on the ground. Because you can do it another way doesn’t mean you should.
Sorry but did you put the bearing in back to front? Looks like the magnet is face out instead of in?
Might look that way since I put the hub in the vise with the wheel side facing away from the camera while I attached the bearing to it but everything is facing the correct way, don't think its possible to install backwards.
Great video mate, i got a d3 2009. With 70k miles and after changing tyres rims rods etc,my car vibrates at about 65 to 75. Can be a bearing ? But is not noisy.
Car had a impact before to left front side so can be a hub bent ?
Did you check the bearings with the wheels off the ground to confirm nothing is lose? Perhaps a control arm bushing or ball joint? Alignment off? I would also have the ride height calibration checked.
Great video, would you mind posting or sharing the diagram that you had there? also what is the tool you used to press the bearing to the hub? Im getting ready to do mine any help is great. Thank you.
Thanks. The diagram was from the service manual I got from eManualOnline. The bearing press was from Amazon www.amazon.com/dp/B01FLVOAZI/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_Yp6RCbH5JZK61.
Wow is that undercarriage completely mint.. must be nice to not have to deal with rust from salt
Most of the parts visible in the video are aluminum, everything steel under the car is rusted bad as I am in the salt belt :(
Hey boss, can I get away with not having the bolts torqued to the spec?
I'm just a DIY guy not a pro so can't be sure but since this holds your wheels on I would suggest torquing to spec
Do you have a list of tools that needed. Thank you Sir.
I'll do my best on the list here but some of this is also mentioned in the video. Jack, jack stands, 17mm for wheels, 21 or 22 I think for the brake caliper bolts, 19mm hex for axle nut, M12 triple square for the wheel bearing bolts, large hammer, hub puller, bearing press for the hub assembly (I used Amazon ASIN B01FLVOAZI), breaker bar, torque wrench, wire brush, 3 jaw puller for removing bearing race, thread lock (blue). Torque specs are in the video for each step.
@@mikesgarage1518 Thank you so kindly.
Probably best to have bought a full hub unit not just wheel bearing. The original wheel bearing would have been matched with the correct axial clearance and ball selection size to match the race ways. Is that a 62-24 bearing? Good video tho 👍🏻
Basically 90 degrees is 12 o'clock to 3 o'clock.
how many miles had a car when the problem happened? Thank you
Hi it had approx 112, 000 KM (70, 000 MI)
While your down there I.would check those lower trailer arm bushes mine went at about 87000 miles stock .
Id be suprised if that abs sensor works after being wire brushed.
It was a nylon brush, no issues with the sensor.
most common problem in audi.
Говори по русски ! Не понял не фига 🧐
Great Job Mike 👍✌
You made me cringe the way you took off that caliper...next time make sure to push the pistons back before taking off the caliper..you can seriously damage your rotor doing what you did...
There was no lip on the rotor so was not about to damage anything
Berak lose first then easy job