2 YEARS of Parts Cannon?! (Toyota EVAP - Part 1)
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- Опубліковано 3 лис 2022
- WOW this must be the ALL-TIME PARTS CANNON RECORD!!
This 2010 Toyota Corolla has had the Check Engine light ON for 2 years; codes P0441 and P0455 for the EVAP system.
After throwing THOUSANDS of dollars at the car, the Owner is ready to BURN IT TO THE GROUND!!
Let's see if we can exorcise the EVAP ghost so this rusty econobox can pass the Emissions Inspection :)
THINKTOOL PROS:
www.amazon.com/dp/B08XXWHQVJ?...
OTC LEAK TAMER:
www.amazon.com/dp/B007X74ZTK?...
Enjoy!
Ivan - Авто та транспорт
OMG! A TOYOTA with all of those parts replaced? Scotty Kilmer isn't going to like that! Ivan will probably put all of those OEM parts that were removed back on the car and diagnose something simple like a cracked hose and will be able to get this car repaired after 2 years with no parts required; and I haven't even watched the video. Great video!
Right off the bat. One of the issues with cars like this is the fact that all those parts were replaced. You could be looking for new problem created by whoever replaced the parts. So this is one is likely not going to be easy.
Yup more parts cannon = more diag time 😅
Especially if there are non-OEM parts.
@RMR57 Exactly. They may have found the right part to replace but may have done a shit job of replacing the part and thus introduced a new problem. Or the part itself is defective. Or any combination of those two added to the original problem possibly still being there. But at least it's known that the system has no leaks. So that's not the problem.
This evap design on this year is by far the hardest one I've ever came across. If I remember correctly the fix was always the updated canister from Toyota. Very interested for part 2
Given the odd behavior asserted I start to like that alternative. At least we can see that there aren't any leaks.
The only thing he didn't replace was the car....
We replaced everything under the hood . Did you replace the hood ? LOL !
I just put a new OEM Toyota radiator cap on . Just drive another Toyota under the new cap and your done !
Its pretty bad the owner has been dealing with this for 2 years. And the Dealer that sold them the car didnt buy it back...Wow..The Poor Guy no doubt has about half what he paid for the car in parts and Labor...Hes a better Man then Iam ..I would of made a Drive Thru in the Dealership..UGH....These Dealers should be held liable., for this car...Holy LEMON....LOL..Great Diagnosing and Video...Now I cant wait to see what it is...LOL...HAHA...
@@thomasbailey8306 you’re so right. It’s sad that the dealer sticks the customer on this one. Even worse that the customer is patient and a good enough person to keep listening and trying to work with people that are not really in a position to “diagnose” anything, it seems. Just another example of a good person getting taken for a ride, a few times over.
@@cccspokesmanandcofounder Your Absolutely Right Sir...Its a Shame this is what Our Country has turned into. Hurray for them and Screw everyone else....UGH..
Hey Ivan... I've been using the 2-day TechStream-Lite TIS subscription for Toyota/Lexus problems like this one. I use the $65 for two days subscription, which I think is pretty steep, but I haven't needed to use the full two days on any car I've used it on (yet). If you do a lot of Toyota business they also have a $1,295 per year subscription but, I can't justify that in my small garage (I'm supposed to be retiring soon). Point is, the TechStream-Lite software is very helpful for problems like this one. Not only does it run all the tests, it gives you a lot of notes and other information... what numbers are good, what's out of range, the highs and lows you can expect and how long specific tests should take. It's so handy to be able to pull up a factory schematic on one screen and switch back to the scan data with just a few keystrokes. Like in this case, I think the pump is underperforming... it's taking too long to pull the pressure down and the monitor is timing out and setting the DTC. Seems I've been using TechStream for Toyota customers, Consult-III for Nissan and the Verus or ADS-325 for everything else. As a matter of fact, I wish there was a scan product like TechStream for all makes... it's easy to use, very comprehensive, and I haven't had it lie to me yet. Nissan Consult is pretty good to, but it's not on the same quality level as TechStream.
Begs the question, if Techstream is so good why didn't the Toyota dealer locate the problem?
@@rafflesnh It could been the technician🙃
@@rafflesnh If the mechanic isn't up to the task, it really doesn't matter how good your tools are... a mechanics MOST effective tool is the one between his/her ears.
The cracked software is available
Online, very easy to find and the OBD2 to usb adapter is less than $20, with a copy of the software and all instructions to install it, off Amazon. Save the $65. Get a permanent setup.
@@cccspokesmanandcofounder Yeh... I'm familiar with it. I bought the OBD connector on eBay (it came from China) and it came with a CD of the software. Long story short, the software had several pieces of malware in it... one wanted a ransom to get my PC to boot (it booted up to the "Happy Screen" and locked up). A local computer geek fixed that for me. The second malware gem took over my browser so every time I tried to get on the internet it could only go to a web site that told me my computer was going to erase itself. I was eventually able to get the software to load and I could actually get it to connect to my daughter's Camry... with a whole bunch of communication errors and PC crashes. Bottom line: I can't, in all good conscience, use crap like that on someone's car. I'm old school. I feel I have a responsibility to repair my customers cars... meaning that I return their vehicle in a serviceable condition with their complaints addressed. The hacked TechStream I got from eBay set off all kinds of alarm bells which left me very skeptical of the efficacy of the scan tool. I can't do that to my customers (although there are several who would deserve a "bricked" ECM). This might be acceptable to a DIY'r who is willing to keep re-hacking it into submission. That sort of tool is completely unacceptable to every responsible garage owner I know.
BTW: The real subscription gives you access to the OE Toyota documentation, TSBs and Identafix Direct-Hit (for Lexus and Toyota). My hacked version could not even connect with TIS. A .txt file on the CD with the hacked version also warned me not to connect with TIS with the screen portal. Not sure what would have happened if a connection could actually been made... Cyber police(?)
My buddy Bryan ( rip) dealt with a issue like this. F250 that would stall or not start. 4 fuel pump, wire harness, injectors, MAf. This was a year long issue Anyhow I drove 2 hours to look at it because I was tired of questions and him getting ripped off. Can't fix a car over the phone. Anyhow found the problem with no diag necessary. Quick inspection found a missing ground to the fuel pump driver.
Three years ago I bought a beater 2008 Toyota Yaris. Manual transmission. I've put 80,000 miles on it. It's old, clunky, noisy, has a rough ride, but.... it starts everyday. Just changed oil. One thing I learned. If you buy a Toyota, the 1st letter of the VIN will tell you what country the car was manufactured in. My Yaris starts with a "J" for Japan.
I bought an echo from my co- worker for $200. Had a bad engine ( overheated). Put a Japan engine in it and drove it for 4 years. Consistent 47 mpg. Ran perfect when I sold it for $2500. I sure wish I still had that one.
@@kinglangren yup.... I lived in the UK a few years. Gas is $9 bucks a gallon. No one drives anything bigger than a Corolla. $9 bucks might happen here too one day. Yikes.
my next step would be to do the manual test again but this time with that vent hose reconnected. It looks like you left that hose disconnected during the test. I think it's possible that there is a blockage in the vent hose going to the fuel cap area causing the pump not being able to exhaust and thus not able to create a big enough vacuum which makes the system think there is a leak when in reality the pump is limited by the blockage in the vent hose.
Good thought... But customer has no problem filling tank so vent hose is fine 👍
There is an air filter further downstream in the vent hose from the canister. It could be restricted just enough to corrupt the purge and seal test without causing a problem refueling the car, much like a spiders nest blocking the vent in some cars. The pressure changes they are looking for are so minimal the slightest restriction can throw the results off. Looking forward to part 2.
The last reading referenced 13.4 and expected a slightly higher value after 10 seconds. The resulting value was indeed 13.6, which looks spot on.
I have surfed down the comments and didn't see anyone questioning the measurements - i.e. is the issue that the electrical system is reporting a false failure? I would start checking wiring next to see if anything is wrong - earths and powers and maybe signals. Looking forward to seeing part 2. As also mentioned, Scotty Kilmer will be amazed to learn a Toyota broke down! 🤣
Love your cliffhangers, Ivan!
I don't really understand the evap codes and the issues. I always have trouble with them. But it sounds like there's a problem with pump or the tube. I'm not sure lol. But I'll wait for part 2. Lol. Great video!!
Had a similar thing in 2012 on a similar car and it was the valve timing….. got my popcorn and watching…
I have to admit that I am not great with evap system problems. Sometimes I get lucky and find a bad vent valve or bad purge valve or flooded canister. (caused by overfilling the gas tank) Other times, I might find a cracked or broken hose somewhere along the system. Usually at or near the canister. A couple of times, just broken wires or corroded connection to a purge valve. Even had a couple with a missing gas cap or the customer fills the gas tank with the engine running. But every time I've come across a Toyota with a evap leak problem, I've very rarely been able to solve it. So Ivan, I hope you don't mind if I just sit back and watch you take a crack at this. Maybe I can learn something too. I'm looking forward to part 2.
Great background letter from the owner. This will be fun.
Just reading the title you know it’s going be a good video. Time to take notes techs.
Geez Ivan! I HATE it when we have to wait til Part 2 to find out the answer to the mystery
Patience grasshopper
I look forward to it, cup of early morning coffee and see where I was wrong.
OMG, Ivan, I just noticed your banner with the electronics scope on the engine! LOL! I'm still using my TDS-210 on cars when the uScope isn't good enough and need a second trace. One of these days I will get a true Lab-scope. LOL!
Two years with a p0455 and still driving fine.
Great video the first thought that came to my mind when I saw the title was to just put a new gas cap on because that is the easiest/quickest repair, but whatta quest a lot of people praise Toyota. I'm all for old mopar over here though.
Long overdue for a good evap diag. Looks like a good one Ivan!
JUST a thought Ivan,could a line in the system be either smashed close or plugged by a ball bearing by the previous owner in an effort to bypass the smog system.Since that was a common way to do stuff in the 70's when smog stuff came out?You could not remove smog equipment then but 99 % of inspectors would never suspect a BB or bearing inside a rubber hose to block it.OF coarse a smart guy could may be check with a magnet on the rubber hoses.haha this is a good on IVAN.
Honestly - just looking at the parts cannon that had been fired and that most of the replacement parts were OEM my first thought was a manufacturing defect in one of the pipes which would somehow cause a leak or blockage. That's a clever idea though and might be more plausible.
So I just started watching but I’m predicting a broken wire. I had a similar problem (same codes) several years ago on my ‘07 Buick Lacrosse. I didn’t go quite has hog wild in replacing parts; just the gas cap and the EVAP in the rear. I left it at my local Buick dealer when I rented a car (Enterprise was almost next to them) for a business trip. Took them less than an hour to diagnose a broken wire under the carpet. I authorized the work over the phone and no problem since (but the car was totaled a year or so later when a deer hit it).
Broken wire usually trips a circuit code. Those are generally easier to diagnose :)
I'm so curious if you're going to have a similar diagnostic to what I had in the shop about a month ago. I noticed when you commanded the purge valve "ON", the valve was clicking. I had a 2009 elantra in the shop we bought from carmax via auction. You can tell they went through the entire detailing process and everything to get this car perfect for sale, and then they wholesaled it. Another win for us, but here's what I found. Gross leak detected and evap performance codes. Same as you have. On the scan tool, did the audible click test like you initially did, and noticed the purge and vent solenoids were clicking constantly when commanded on. Characteristically from prior experience, when the tool commands the state to on, the valve fully opens and stays open. When there is a toggle button available on the scan tool, it'll toggle on and off every 1 second. I thought it was strange, so after pressure checking, smoking, everything, I found no issues. I dug deeper, and service info wasn't available as far as PWM duty cycles and the state of the valves. So I hooked up my scope, measured the commanded duty cycle on the purge, and the "ON" state was 95%. At 95% pwm, there should be no clicking, that solenoid should be open fully and staying that way. Same thing happened to the vent valve as well. Cheap no name parts on the car. I went to O'Smilies and picked up an intermotor valve. It wasn't a reboxed OEM which I was hoping for, but it did say built in USA. Slapped it on, same thing. Vibrating valve at 95% duty. I goto the other usual scumbags and found a dorman made in the prc valve, and besides the dealer, it was my last shot. The autozone valve was the exact same valve the intermotor was, so I exhausted my aftermarket choices and tried the dorman. Low and behold! commanded on and stayed wide open at 95% duty. Did the same with the new vent valve, however the first new valve I got worked and I didn't go down the rabbit hole like I did for the purge. In summary, what was happening was the PCM was commanding a variable duty to the purge valve while the engine was under load. The aftermarket valves didn't behave like the PCM expected, so at 30% duty, the valves weren't even opening. And since the pressure didn't change in the tank like the PCM expected, it set the gross leak and evap purge flow incorrect codes. Same with the vent. Service data unfortunately doesn't give expected behavior at a given PWM percentage, so finding that one was tricky, and I just had to trust my gut when the valves were clicking and vibrating when being commanded fully open. There was a lot more testing I did before grabbing parts, just too much for a youtube comment lol. Just because a part is new, doesn't mean it's good. I trust nothing, tools included (found bi-directional controls to just not actually work when they said the "output" was on). I swear Ivan, I am to Nevada what you are to Pennsylvania. Dealers just keep on growing my client list.
This actually sucks man
very good content ivan ,i think the problem is the fuel tank pressure sensor system side is does not change much with elec pump or when you block the vent with purge valve open ,tks great video
Feel the owners pain after all these replacements. We've all gone down route 66 with all cylinders blazing and still no joy, except a bill that keeps expanding, vertically. There's so many bloody variables, it's hard to know where to start. This scenario goes beyond credulity as the majority of the relevant parts have already been exchanged. The factory test has held up and definitely time to take a well earned break. A cup of tea or coffee is in order with a jam doughnut to finish it off. Take off your jacket, turn it inside out and hope the leaprauchans will go back to the tavern 🍺, drinking Guinness.
I may have this guy beat for the record Ivan. I loved when he said no amount of UA-cam could help him now, I can relate ! I should probably send you an E-Mail before all my hair has been pulled out ! 🤓
Thanks a lot 🤗🤗🤗
The first thing that set the cringe sensor off was the flagship PCM. I’d be curious if it was replaced before this problem started or to try and fix this problem. I would look to confirm emission calibrations with known OEM VIN data through Toyota. So often programming can be a culprit in issues that are emission related and with flagship units, I’ve seen a lot of discrepancies in calibration options or even known good units. I can say for a fact that in many cases, “new” doesn’t always mean good… but with Flagship PCMs those numbers increase 😂😂😂
Thanks for the follow along, Ivan. This one looks interesting.
I had very good luck with flagship
You're comment on the weak vacuum pump makes me wonder if that's the problem. The module it lives in doesn't seem to have been replaced. I'd also check all the "plumbing" to make sure the hoses are going where they're supposed it. I could see someone getting that wrong and no one catching it.
While the pump appears to be weak it seems to me the volume of air in the tank must be accounted for as to the amount of time it takes to draw down. That's another reason an accurate measurement of fuel is important.
I noticed there was an uncomfortable silence after "flagship 1" lol.
My brother has one bought from new. Not one problem, not one, and now my dat is using it as dayly and no issues.
Just started watching, haven’t heard the vent valve mentioned yet if it has one? Rust jacking on the vent valve perhaps? Let’s see.
The OEM Toyota diag software if readily available online for free and there’s an adapter you can get to work with any laptop. Very helpful with some of the OEM special functions that the aftermarket scan tools don’t always translate very well…
@29 minutes when you opened the purge the pressure was 13.6, it didn't go back to 14.1 absolute, then didn't drop rapidly.
Dunno, at this point I'm calling a intermittently sticky aftermarket muffler bearing😊😊😊
Front or rear? 😁 🙃
Almost tempted to just change what hasn't been changed. ;)
PSI is throwing me off, I usually see the ref pull down to close to 20 mmhg, but I also switch to graphing, just help with the visual. Be interesting to see part 2, did you isolate the different sections?
Gotta love the complexities of the simple combustion 4 cycle engine 😄 this car stinks of Fukashima Tepco engineering fail .
These codes appear on my 2004 Sequoia (168,000 miles) since I bought it 2 years ago. Replaced fuel cap and the little valve cannister(vent solenoid?) located next to the larger charcoal cannister. I now just use my cheap scan tool to clear the codes, they eventually return but as it does not affect the running am happy to leave it. I recall watching a similar video you did a couple of years ago on another Toyota, I think it was a Camry, seems a common problem on Toyota's.
Damn need the part 2
this is going to be a good one i bet
i have a question could low bat volts do that if you can can we see the bat volt from the batt it self i wonder if the pump is drawing too mush power
Had a a similar problem and the was a flapper valve on the perg line tank output that got stuck on its seat because of the leak down pump . I only found it because I did the smoke teat the normal way at the perge solenoid. And wasn't getting smoke to the tank . Had to remove to flapper valve from tank so it could perg . Had no flow codes and large leak codes . Don't really understand why it had larg leak codes maybe because the order of operation
maybe it released suddenly once the pressure got very high?
that had to be a Friday built Toyota..🤪
Another good cliff hanger.
When it stated that it had to be below 35 degrees C - one thought I had is that it could be a fuel quality issue with too much butane in the fuel (boiling point 0 degrees C). But I'm only at 19 minutes now.
The two things in on the bottom toward the back. You heard them click and you said something like they sound like they're working. Can you or have you checked them other than listening to the click? Did the smoke prove they're OK? Now back to the last half of this video. Lets see what you find.
Up vote if you want Ivan to finish a series then upload it. The suspense is killing me haha.
What is the pressure sensor doing? I've got a 2009 Sierra 2500HD throwing P0446, and it's NOT a vent valve issue!
FTP stuck at 4.73 volts!
I can't help but wonder if that Fragship One computer has some kind of software or hardware issue in it. That, or the updated canister from Toyota, just wondering what version of the canister they installed.
Ditto.
It appears to me that Step 4 of the manual evap check did not perform as it should. When the purge VSV, vent valve, and leak detection pump are all on, the pressure should release over a 10 second period back to atmospheric and it did not. It stayed at approximately 13.7 psi. Then, in step 5, when the purge VSV and vent valve are turned off, the pressure should drop to approximately 13.6 psi or a little lower in about 10 to 20 seconds. I do not know what would cause that to occur. The next step I would take would be to check that all of the hoses in the evap system are actually attached in the right places.
These steps seemed tough to follow, at least from home. I would like to see how they look on the TiS OEM software. Often you get a better visual or graph to follow. The aftermarket scanners often lose some of the needed/helpful parts of the software in translation when stealing the OEM software.
As a Toyota tech I see this all the time in the 18 and up models. Sometimes it’s easy to repair sometimes not even with smoke. If the 1604 is set, it’s almost always intermittent purge valve sticking open. Unfortunately there is a several month back order on those 🤦♂️
I had thesame problem whit a corolla the only thing that I noticed code p0401 purge incorrect flow onthe freezframe the car was on open loop
This dude got a special deal on the cannon.
hmm, original cannister broke up and left debris in the line to purge valve/engine, they replaced everything but didn't flush and clean the lines out?
I've had that issue multiple times in the past, dating from 2012 back to 1980's carbureted vehicles. my solution was always placing a fuel filter in line directly in front of the purge valve.
It would be worth checking to ensure that the tubes are not obstructed or kinked.
So,after closing purge second time it doesn’t drop back down. Is it possible something in the system is being told to “stay open” falsely during the second part of the test procedure? Either that or perhaps sensors are lying?
The last reading referenced 13.4 and expected a slightly higher value after 10 seconds. The resulting value was indeed 13.6, which looks spot on.
The design of the system is a little obsessive. They got a reference orifice to pump on so the computer can compare it with something else. Well, somebody really wants to keep raw gas out of the atmosphere.... yeesh.-kb.
Kenneth King
It appears to me that Step 4 of the manual evap check did not perform as it should. When the purge VSV, vent valve, and leak detection pump are all on, the pressure should release over a 10 second period back to atmospheric and it did not. It stayed at approximately 13.7 psi. Then, in step 5, when the purge VSV and vent valve are turned off, the pressure should drop to approximately 13.6 psi or a little lower in about 10 to 20 seconds. I do not know what would cause that to occur. The next step I would take would be to check that all of the hoses in the evap system are actually attached in the right places.
>>>Yeah.
looks like the ONE part that (maybe) was NOT replaced was the 'leak detection pump' and 'canister pressure sensor' ...
(unless these are 'part of' the vent valve or canister)
The owner is tearing his hair out. Ivan says that this should be fun. You have to laugh.
Leak Detection Pump diaphragm is bad. Keith at New Level few years ago helped me w some info to solve the small evap leak on my car w a faulty LDP. took my LDP apart and the diaphragm was kinked..not perfect circle along the edges. let's go brandon.
In many states you will fail inspection (smog test) if a check engine light (OBD-II failure) is on. With the result being you cannot get the car registered. EVAP, short for evaporative emissions, is a part of OBD-II. So it has to be working to pass smog.
I have had EVAP issues exactly once with my 97 Jeep. The system on that model year has just a single purge valve, and the charcoal cannister (no pump).
The valve failed, stuck open. I replaced it, worked for a week, failed stuck open again.
Turned out the canister was bad, which is unobtainiom on a 20+ year old Jeep.
Turns out, a mid 80s Buick canister is perfect fit (available at AutoZone), and that fixed the problem, after installing the canister, flushing the particles from the tubes, and installing yet another valve.
Good job, good tip!
Probably same canister but different part number due to some minor difference - even just brand sticker.
@@ehsnils no clue, it worked and that's all I cared about. Here in GA we don't have inspections after 25 years, and at that time I had to pass for three more years.
Duralast VC120, for those that care.
On this model Jeep, the canister mounts on the frame rail right next to the distributor (basically underneath all the AC components) rather than back by the rear axle.
This one’s got me stumped. Thinking computer not computing right?
Does anyone know if this vehicle even had any driveability concerns issues? Some people like to just replace everything under the rainbow when a check engine light comes on and has no effect on drivability
Part 2 please
I had one on a Ford, found a spider web in the vent line.
Ivan, when the check engine light comes on on that car, does the abs and traction light come on too?
On some cars they do just to scare the user to take the car to the shop. The other lights have no meaning whatsoever on those cars.
what happened in step 2 during the manual mode checks?? I'm trying this right now on my 2012 Venza and can't get past step 2. Keeps kicking me back..
I think I would try mode 6 diag on this one.
A++++++++ Thanks
Test the vent valve for leaks
Did they replace the pump??
IVAN - Have you the ECM (which is what "senses" a problem and "tells you about it") is informed (via electrical wires) of the various condition status AND what the pressure(s) are, THUS, ALL COMPONENTS are FUNCTIONING as intended, YET the ECM is given bad information (numbers?) BECAUSE there is a bad wire or connection?
Just a thought. Kindly, Cloud
If the car runs fine the only option is to sell it in a state that does not test for emissions. since I'm guessing that is part of the problem.
maybe mud dauber nest in the tank vent line causing a slow purge, a harness connector plug swapped and in the wrong place, leaking shrader valve in the vent valve connector port, pinched purge line somewhere not letting it vent fast enough. , but have the feeling its an intermittent electrical connection somewhere. this is one where you do NOT want to go down a rabbit hole based on what the customer has replaced.
Or maybe there is a mouse nest in the air filter box and it blocked the mass airflow sensor. No, that's no good. That wouldn't set any codes.
Step 1: Ask the guy on the bar stool sitting next to you what you should do and what parts you should just start replacing based on what the other guys in the bar think it might be.
6:06 placing my armchair mechanic bet now. Green crusties or flaky wiring on the leak detection pump?
is the purge line open?
An evap system seems like FM to me. Every car I've ever had including my 2007 Buick Lucerne that I'm currently having that problem with, has never been successfully repaired. I don't know why it is, that you can drive these things for many years without a single evap problem and then when you do, no one can fix them, at least in this area anyway.
Have you tried turning it off, then turning it on again?.
It finally came to you so it will be fixed right
Large leak"/P0455... Up front I'm thinking cracked hose or tubing, gas cap shot or check valve somewhere [canister?] is bad. But the parts cannon list seems to tilt elsewhere But the english on codes can sometimes be misleading [such as P0401 -there is no flow sensor in an egr system but rather "insufficient flow" is derived from a temperature sensor]. Sometimes, starting with electrical schematics is not a bad idea if a quick visual goes nowhere.
So the drawing [6:48] had one thing jump out: soak timer - is that to block faults on startup, or a way to demand fault persistance & avoid false codes? Engine coolant temp [7:00] seems to guide, and now I'm thinking faulty temp sensor - probably an rtd or its lead showin wrong resistance to the computer?. Many newer model cars use two coolant temp sensors, so that might be a factor here? The dash may show normal, despite a fault on a second sensor
But enough of my initial musings before troubleshooting really began. You are methodical as always, and it is interesting to discover the problem as you found it.
Do you have a Toyota tech stream scan tool?
I had same code P0445 with my 1917 Toyota 86 and the vacuum pump was leaking through out the wire connector.
I started to say they didn't make the 86 in 1917, but they did. They stopped with the FR-S in 1915.
@Jonathan A ,Sorry it is 2017, my mistake.
I live in Oklahoma.. We don't fix evap stuff here. lol.. It's good to not have inspections.
Parts cannon .. it still falls down and goes boom.
Balls away
19:42 snap on has automatic Mode
Haven't watched yet. I'm really hoping its not the TSB for ECM replacement due to constantly grounded purge valve.
🤔👍🏻
I remember while back i had a similar issue. This was about 7 years ago so I don't remember the manufacturer but the was a calibration update. I want to say bmw or maybe Toyota.
may be a expose wire of some sensor
I want to tend to want to think that if there are no leaks, and the tested parts are functional, then there are 3 choices,
1. Bad Ground;
2. Over Voltage/Under Voltage;
3. Blocked hose or airway. Crimped, Flattened, Obstructed.
Seeing the list of parts replaced, one thing not on the list is the soak timer. What happens if the timer is fubar? I know you solve it in part 2. Waiting expectantly.
Is it separate from the ECM with all its digital wizardry inside? A times should be a piece of cake. I am also awaiting part 2.
@@jeffryblackmon4846 Viewing the wiring diagram, it looks to be part of the ignition switch.
How do shops handle situations where they don’t fix the car with respect to the invoice?
Does the customer still have to pay if the mechanic didn’t fix it?
I had a Grand Cherokee at my dealer with a small evap leak check engine light I replaced basically the entire evap system besides the gas tank for a small evap leak code checked everything like crazy a million times my shop foreman got the car he ended putting a pcm in it and a gas tank and it still failed a evap small leak test I think we ended up buying the car from the customer and sending it to auction
WOW that's nuts!
So there is a leak but nobody has done a smoke test?
hi..why dont u do a system reset because you have it in your scanner..!!!
1. With all the parts replaced, who checked the lines from the tank to the front for leaks?
2. After changing parts maybe someone unknowingly fixed the problem.
3. What if any TSB's call for flashing the PCM program (sometimes with a component to match the reprogram) to eliminate the problem.
4. If all looks well, what happens during a test drive AFTER the vehicle sits for 12 to 15 hours? Maybe it's a vibration problem.