Make sure to look up "Watch wes work" and "South main auto" -- They both have very good videos too, using scan tools and scopes, just like this channel.
@@Michael_J_M14 I didn't go, I keep to myself unless intruded upon. I also don't " BEAT COPS UP OR PSYCHICALLY FIGHT ", I carry a pistol, so I would just shoot them if need be. THANKS FOR ASS UM ING THOUGH, MAGA.
So just goes to show take it to a mechanics garage & customer pays a hell of large some of money to have it fixed & get the car back & its Bloody Worse because the mechanic that worked on this engine didn't do the work & until a gentleman like you come along & diagnose it properly on a scanner & found the problem & you are one Real Nice Guy & knew what you were doing & solved the problem Good on you Sir & it's a Bloody shame that there are so many mechanics that call themselves mechanics that don't find the correct problem & charge the earth & there is a mechanic like you Sir that didn't take you long to find the correct problem & now the motor is running Sweet As Sir Kind Regards Peter & the Customer is Really Happy Now with the Excellent Work that you have done THUMBS UP TO YOU SIR
This is a very common problem with this engine. My brother had the same thing happen to his multiple times. The forums suggest removing the screen on the replacements to prevent the issue from happening.
It is sad the customer spent so much money for essentially nothing. You came along & diagnosed the issue in a very short period of time. Well done Ivan. It will be interesting to see if the catalyst issue is directly related the the valve train issue, IE unburnt fuel making it's way into the catalyst due to the timing issue caused by the stuck actuator that you cleared.
Disagree. As Ivan noted. Timing belt was changed. Vehicles over 100k mark. Timing belts must be changed as a maintenance procedures. I've had customers refuse timing belt replacement. A few months later. Timing belt broke. Now they need an entire kit. Including water pump replaced. Next they want to refuse water pump. So I refuse the work. They replace belt only. No idlers either. Next part is busted is belt due to busted idlers. They are back to where I recommended done.
There is a TSB on the Chevy Cruze to remove the these screens. The filter screen on the end is to remain in place. I ordered GM/Delco replacements. I replaced both solenoids as both had broken plastic. One was made in Germany. The other was made in China. Both OEM. The first suggestion on the Cruze is to check oil level and quality. Change oil and filter if last oil change is unknown.
@@calholli My Daughter’s Cruze has been changed every 5K. It has over 176K. I replaced both VVT solenoids and it runs better than when she purchased it. I am glad it is the 1.8L and not the 1.4 turbo.
@@peto22 I don't know about that. I had a supercharged 3800 1998 Grand Prix and it certainly wasn't slow and I got 30 MPG between Phoenix and Las Vegas.
@@satamanschmidt3428 gm's 3800 was a great motor. Never done a timing chain on one of those. Used here in Australia up to 2003-04 before the alloytec lumped in with swiss cheese timing chains. Pity it wasnt swiss precision 🤣
Sadly I own one of these cars. I feel like i am constantly chasing issues with it. Not this issue so far! Thank you for sharing your amazing diagnostic skills.
Some of these have a plastic spacer in the early designs. It goes in the end of the cam between the cam and phaser. I think there was a TSB about some missing. Also, cams are not keyed, rely on just the attaching streach bolt. If it's the engine I'm thinking of.
Super smart individual, I think the diagnostic terms/abilities goes way above normal people. Plus you are straight to the point, with no fun. I think that is a big reason for not blowing up on subs.
Thats true, the meshes are only necessary during run-in time of the (new) motor. For already advanced milage one should remove these filters on the solenoids!
I've learned so much watching your methodologies. Especially the cam/crank correlation stuff. Was able to diagnose and resolve a jeep 4.0 cam correlation code with my dual trace lab scope and comparing to known good traces online... ended up being the distributor gear installed backwards in the china factory, pushing the cam timing off by 1/2 tooth or approx 6 degrees.
My son has a 09 GTI with a 2.0. Bought a larger turbo and that company also supplies a tune. Uploads it and cam timing issues on the exhaust cam. He pulls the solenoid because he thought it was a sensor or solenoid issue. His lower screen was gone. Totally. He deals with a speed shop that specializes in VW's. Good rep. The owner says it's an ongoing issue with those motors, so he always removes all the screens from the solenoid on all motors he builds. Never had a problem and most of his engines are for racing. My son came over and we were discussing the problem and I told him it has to be a bad tune due to it only appearing after new tune was uploaded and to upload the stock tune. He did and problem was gone. My point being this is sounding more of an issue weather the screens are clogged, missing or broken and jammed like yours from different mfg. My sons motor had over 200K mile on it, so he bought a low milage motor from the junkyard and had the speed shop rebuild that one so missing screen is also no longer a future issue with the old motor. He swapped the motors out about 4 weeks ago and broke in the new motor. Having the speed shop dyno and tune the new motor tomorrow. It's amazing that you post this one and I just went through this with my son and daughter's car. Daughter had a bad CVVT on her exhaust cam. Thank goodness it was under warranty. 2018 Hydia Elantra. Thanks' and keep them coming.
Hi Ivan , great video . The next plastic part in the vvt system to break up is the plastic oil control tube which phaser bolts go through which feeds phasers . The debris spreads . Can't wait for part 2 👍
I regularly deal with that engine in the UK, one thing to note for future is the camshaft reluctors are pressed onto the camshafts and quite often people move them by using them to hold the camshafts when tightening the cam sprockets, even though the cams have flats for a spanner. This causes a real headache when using a scope to check cam positions.
2008 Astra has same solenoids; there was a "Service Note" to remove the orange screens. The dieseling for a few seconds at cold startup typically is a failing camshaft gear. For P0420, a leaky flex pipe is first check.
Definitely the best mechanic and diagnostic technician on UA-cam by far. I recently bought my mother a 2014 sonic lt because she is 84 years old and her Chrysler convertible was getting just a little to big and sloppy for her precision driving technique. That and the sonic only had 110k and didn't have a single drip mark, leak,carbon stain, or any discoloring under the hood. And it's a Chevy so the A/C has a snow setting It literally looked brand new or barley broken in. I it was my first time buying a car that I felt like I got a awesome deal and is worth every penny of the 6k. Well after 8 months the water pump started leaking so I was like let's see what else I can do preventative maintenance wise while I'm under her bonnet ...and omg not only can I replace water pump timing belt tensioner and idler pulleys motor mount plugs thermostat and I needed to get an actuator arm for the intake tuning valve all for less than 400 bucks and after watching your chanel and a few others just because I don't like mechanical surprises total labor was about 6 hours minus the 2 hours of cussing and cranking, jacking and jerking, I had to carefully remove the 3 T-45 water pump bolts while have to use an improvised 8mm ratchet wrench while putting pressure on the tensioner pulls to lock the water pump pulls in place to break the bolts without stripping them (so after 3 attempts I quit for the day and got a fresh start and instead of using the tension on the belt I used my oversized flathead screwdriver and used it to hold the pulley in place by wedging it in-between the pulley bolts and they broke easy.......anyway your channel is amazing over 1100 vehicle videos and almost 300 of them GM so needless to say hello I'm Joe your recent subscriber 😂
Not knocking anymore after debris removed engine running smoother very nice find looks like a confirmed fix Ivan good Repair and Find Ivan @Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics
You can't replace the water pump first, w/o first replacing the oil pump. Must take the oil pump out and carefully take it apart in solvent, after releasing the 50 ft./lbs. cap nut that holds it in. The factory pump kit for first 2.4 ECOTECS HAD PARTS THE NECESSARY FOR THE 2 VVT SPROCKETS THAT HAD TO BE CLEANED AND ONE REINSTALLED ON THE FRONT END OF EACH OF TWO CAM SHAFTS. THE WATER PUMP KIT HAD NO PARTS FOR THE OIL PUMP REPAIR BUT THE OLD PUMP THAT KEEPS OIL PRESSURE ON THE TIMING CHAIN HAS TO BE FIXED BY USING A BUNCH OF OEM PARTS FROM GM TO ALLOW THE DEALER ENOUGH TIME TO FIX THE WATER PUMP AND TO CHECK AND REPLACE THE OIL PUMP AND KEEP THE OIL PRESSURE UP AND THE TIMING IN SYNC WITH THE CRANK. YOU CAN TAKE THESE APART BLIND-FOLDED IF YOU UNDERSTAND WHY THIS WORKS AND HOW GM MANAGED TO SCREW ANY NON-PROFESSIONAL OWNER/DIYER BY GIVING THEM INSUFFICIENT PARTS AND INSTRUCTIONS AND ENOUGH TIME TO FIX IT.
Just found your channel, I love diagnosing modern cars. It's just rewarding to use some logic rather than the parts cannons. That pico scope is a game changer with it showing degrees, wish I had one but don't do cars for a living. I use a normal 2 channel scope and a good meter with frequency counter which can give you a good idea what's going on if you know how to use them.
I truly enjoy watching you and South main auto channel's and try to mimic your diagnostics when working on my '95 F250 and '12 dodge grand caravan but so far haven't had any electrical issues.
Wow, that's cool diagnosis too find the broken screen!! Nice job Ivan. I think the cats were clogged due to the rich or lean mixture? Idk. But it needs the screen ţ to filter out impurities to make it work. That's my guess. So needs new solenoids and let's see part 2 and what happens with the p0420 code!
well the oil gets filtered in the oil filter already, so if between the oil filter and the solenoid there's nothing that puts big particles in the oil, then the screens will do nothing. So I think there's only a small chance that removal of the mesh screens will cause a problem
It reminds me of myself 50 years ago in this business take it apart find out what makes it tick what makes it fail and is there a possible way to prevent it down the road looks to me at the rate he's going he will learn more by stepping on his feet a few times then a lot of guys do through entire career of doing this of just throwing parts at it I love seeing the surprise look on his face during the videos when something happens he didn't expect sometimes we all get tongue-tied explaining these types of issues but I'm sure that it's going 240 through his head and he wants to get the job done and done correctly
I've replaced many many of these solenoids on the 2.4 ecotech,in fact GM has a TSB on these too ,it also helps if the owner changes oil on time as these motors will varnish heavily too.
That’s awesome! Those oil control solenoids almost seem like they need a service interval for cleaning! I’ve seen very dirty screens lately especially when people don’t change their oil often.
Nice job Ivan. It's also recommended not to put solenoids into magnetic trays as it can damage them. Never seen that happen personally but just something I've read.
That's true with parts like that you should always use OEM parts and if I was the customer I wouldn't mind having no filter as long as the oil is clean it's all right 👍
(While realising that models vary) I was reading about some Suzuki I think, that had VVT, but it didn't activate until something like 4,700 rpm, and upwards. That's a lot of extra complexity, parts and possible future breakdowns, for an engine which, in a small economy car, that in a typical "family car" use, will never ever be revved up to that high of an RPM. I realise that conditions vary across countries, including social norms, but most cars I have bought are already about 20 years old, sometimes more, and I'm always trying to tease the longest possible lifespan from the engine, gearbox and brakes etc. Currently the 2 different cars I drive are a 4 cyl Suzuki 4 speed auto (with the big 1 litre engine LOL) and a 2 litre 5 speed manual Peugeot convertible. The legal speed limit (strictly enforced here) is reached at a bit over 3,000rpm in top gear, of both cars. In my time of owning these cars, I'd never have even reached 4,000 rpm, let alone ever exceeded that speed. This area is flatter than most pancakes, but on the rare occasions I've driven over some steep hills, I'd never dream of exceeding 3,000 rpm, in a lower gear while hillclimbing. I reckon VVT is just extra shite waiting to break down and go wrong. OK maybe for competition racecars, but for folks wanting simple reliable cheap transportation... an unnecessary complication.
This seems like a deja vu moment. Was there another video with a similar situation with some little plastic thing stuck in a solenoid (or something) recently? An amazing diagnoses.
Our 2011 HHR 2.2 ECOTEC has been a great engine with 200,000 original miles we recently changed spark plugs..ignition coils..flushed out radiator filled with Dexcool..R/R front struts & rear shocks..R/R tranny mounts & engine mounts..Runs like Brand New 👍
The Astra's main ground wire from the starter to the battery typically corrodes right at the starter. It shows low voltage at the battery terminals (compared to the alternator we saw a 0.8v drop). One can run a new ground strap. That extra voltage seems to pep these engines a lot but not sure why (maybe better spark?)
I almost always have installed a 10 gauge ground strap on my engines to the body of the car and then from the body to the battery. Like you had said about corrosion happens and I just like to take 10 mins and prevent issues.
Excellent diagnoses Ivan 😊👍 Amazing with plastic debris from the screen on intake solenoid. Maybe the new solenoid have metal cap screen instead of plastic one's. Great video and looking forward for part 2 😊
Great diagnostic, Ivan! I saw "Part 1" in the title and when you said "this car is fixed", there had to be something else :-) Not the original fault, but the money light is on - let's wait for Part 2 :-)
Wasn't expecting to watch the whole thing in one go tonight, great stuff. I don't know much about cars, just what I had to fix on my 99 corolla in the course of about 10 years of ownership; these diagnostic videos are fascinating though. I'm hoping my 2013 Sonic is kind to me, once I get that final(lower one) motor mount swapped out I hope the vibration at idle goes away completely. Seems GM just cheaped out on their part selection, really stupid and unfortunate. I hear the mounts go bad at least every 5 years. With my sensitive back I may do them sooner than that, not the funnest thing.
So, Ivan, remove the debris from the jammed valve, reinstall the valve, check for normal operation.... Return car to customer, NO PARTS REQUIRED, eh? OK, I just had to make a joke. But we saw this kind of problem on an earlier video of yours as well. I don't remember which one, wasn't that long ago, but it had debris in the hydraulic valve as well. Love your videos man.
Thanks for the video, my little Sonic is getting to the 97500 mile mark and doing that little clicking noise. Thinking this might be the issue. I'm not sure I'm going to be able to do this, but I appreciate the time and effort that was put into making it. My only comment, is I wish you had shown all the steps with removing all the things you removed to get them out of the way. Those are the parts that scare me.
I was gifted my aunts 2013 sonic with 105k miles on it(she even drove it 5 or 6 hours to me since she flies for free, took a plane back). I was sad to let go of my 99 Corolla, but it had over twice the mileage and burns a lot of oil. I'm rolling the dice on the Sonic I guess. Already have had to deal with vibrations at idle due to motor mounts(that look perfectly fine when you pull them out). I've replaced the top two and it did help a ton with it, so hoping the bottom one gets rid of it altogether, I have a sensitive spine so it was really bugging me. They also don't tell you the motor mount bolts are TTY and need replacing after one use, and you can't easily google what size to buy to get them preemptively. That was a little basket of confusion and stress. As far as I know the Corolla has the original mounts with no issues whatsoever. Haven't watched the videos yet but I'm interested in learning more, kind of scared I was gifted a money pit, but they took care of it(got it new) and took it to the dealership for all scheduled maintenance.
A filter jammed up the works. Really great find/fix Ivan. I have a new "X Tool D8" and watching both B1S2 and B2S2 I can see, in graph form, how the B2S2 is showing the performance problem for the bank 2 cat. (P0430 code) It intermittently follows B2S1, all while bank 1 cat is working as designed. There is more needed testing but I was watching this from the driver's seat. Really Cool! The vehicle is 16+ years old, runs great, probably needs the cat.
These 1.8 valvetrains are really sensitive to oil. They run great with full synthetic (DEXOS) in newish condition. They run terrible with older oil and with non-DEXOS.
Ivan is absolutely the NPR KING. Just amazes me his ability to sniff out issues and so many times he doesn’t even need parts to fix the vehicle. It’s like watching Jordan ball, Picasso paint, etc. etc.
He's what happens when you turn a scientist into a mechanic. Now there are damn few that make that career change, for obvious reasons, but that's primarily what Ivan is.
I am a tech of over 20 years. I wish shop owners would give more than 5 mins for a total diagnostic check. Sometimes ( most of the time) it causes parts to be thrown at a car with no actual repair. Those of us who take the time needed to properly diagnose are considered worthless and a waste of money to a shop.
@@jtbuilds9176 OBVIOUSLY, if you fix the car with no parts required and Joe Blow does it by selling a new engine who's the star in the eyes of the shop owner? Why anybody wants to be in this trade amazes me.
@@satamanschmidt3428 I wish I had not made this my career choice but over 20 years in what can I do? I don't know anything else other than to move around when it gets to scammy.
Wow, what a coincidence! Just bought a '15 chevy sonic for my daughter I'm happy to know how easy it was to fix. Not mentioned was whether this was a turbo
Nice find On the Debris from the broken filter Stuck in the pintle on the intake cam oil Solenoid Ivan wow that is a impressive Failure @Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics
Hi Ivan, great subject, did you check to see if the static timing of the belt was okay? You were talking about Inlet and Exhaust camshaft sync, but did you check that the marks on ALL three cam belt pullies lined up when crankshaft is TDC?
damn, i love your videos Its amazing to see your skills and ability to diagnose. While I seem to always fall into the category of "learned helplessness" when i try to diagnose things, its extremely helpful to hear your voice in my head telling me to check the fundamentals first. It really helps that you were also able to hear something funky going on mechanically on startup.
Thy part one. That was awesome now I no what I'm looking for great video. Going to check it out over the weekend again that's that helped me out like you couldn't believe
Direction of movement on the solenoid might go either way depending on polarity applied. So there might be a permanent magnet in the core of the solenoid. Another "fun" thing is if the permanent magnet for some reason decides to change polarity. Not sure if these solenoids works that way though.
This is my experience with 2 local DEALERSHIPS ( IN THE LAST 3 MONTHS ) with my Merc. Montego. Car stopped running when put it reverse, wouldn't restart or crank, battery GREAT, HELL CAN'T EVEN GET IT OUT OF PARK NOW ? So 2 shops looked at it & couldn't communicate with Computer. Both shops gave up said it might be a fuse ? Did you check the fuses I asked ? No because we can't Communicate with Computer, WTF ? BOTH DEALERSHIPS SAID THIS. So had a Mobile Mechanic specializing in Keys, thought maybe my key Battery died, NOPE, SAME THING CAN'T COMMUNICATE WITH COMPUTER, PROBABLY A FUSE ? The problem right now is BOTH DEALERSHIPS ARE HIRING FOR DIAG. SPECIALIST'S, SAW IT ADVERTISED IN THE LOCAL PAPER & OTHER INDEPENDENT SHOPS ALSO. So you get what you get RIGHT NOW, NOBODY KNOWS WHAT THEY'RE DOING. I have to find a way to get Sir Ivan to look at it but the DAMN CAR IS STUCK IN PARK & I LIVE ABOUT 2 HOURS AWAY, ROUGHLY.
@@NoWr2Run: Just saw interview with owner of several dealerships on SoCal where he said they are losing HUGE revenue due to shortage in techs. They are being forced to schedule cars for service 5-7 days in the future, and customers finding other options. They need to pay techs better; PERIOD.
@@hightttech AGREED, because in my experience " A TECH. " would have at least looked further into the problem, not just sent me on my way saying a fuse might be blown ? HELL CAN'T THEY EVEN CHECK FOR BLOWN FUSES ? It's definitely a BIG PROBLEM EVERYWHERE. T.y. for your reply.
@@NoWr2RunThere may be a way to bypass the parking lock if it's a center console shifter look for a small plastic cover. Should be right around the shifter take it out and put a small screw driver and should come out of park. Otherwise look it up online hope this helps if you get it out of park try to start in neutral.
For mine. I replaced 02 sensors. And all temperature sensors. One zzp high performance coil. That I bought from eBay. The sensors were all OEM. The coil pack was after market. With a five star rating. I even added ordinary ac Delco spark plugs. That solved my problem. I did replace both the MAF sensor and the MAP sensor. Runs like a champ. Lastly a engine air filter. No more hesitation to accelerate when making a complete stop. Use the Force obi wan. That computer will keep you scratching your head. It's bad sensors. Bad coil
Love your videos, interesting that whatever prompted the owner to buy that replacement solenoid would have fixed it in one, despite the country of origin of the part.
I had an older ' belt cam ' - no variable cam engine that from it spinning backwards a few turns made the belt skip over three whole teeth at the crank. It had about 10 horsepower and barely ran. It was hard to diagnose as it showed no codes. It made a slight ticking noise which after I figured it out was apparently the valves touching. I was lucky it didn't jump four.
Had a similar fault in a Holden Barina ,Chevrolet Sonic.After a lot of testing I decided to do a current draw test on the solenoids. The faulty one was drawing about 4amps from memory. It's was stuck.The good one was around 1.7amps
Has it got a good oil change history and used quality oil? If it comes back with the same code in the future, it'll probably have some of the screen in the pulley assembly.
So the source of the debris is a plastic framed screen that's there to keep out debris? Makes you wonder if it's best to remove the corresponding screen from the exhaust side too.
When the phasers lock, it simply drops a pin down into a hole. If that hole has gunk or a piece of plastic or something in it-- that will prevent it from locking. But the fact that it did lock when you were hand cranking the engine-- kinda says that's not the case and that it's likely the oil control that's not acting right. I'm with you so far. (I'm 16 mins in).
For only $100 for both solenoids, I would have replaced both with OEM GM (Germany) parts. What's another $100 when you have already spent $1000 on that shyte-box.
@@TheOzthewiz I agree. He hadn't pulled the solenoids yet when I wrote this.. I think it's a shame that they even put those little screens on there at all; when they could easily mount a little secondary oil filter right there next to the solenoid oil inputs, so that you could easily change that filter when you do regular oil changes. . I guess they thought making you change out the solenoids was already cheap enough.
One last thing check all vacuum lines. And especially around the turbo charger. From the air cleaner. That it's connected and tight. Any air leaks will cause problems.
Thanks my friend. Now I am having flash backs of the Saturn from Hell. I don't know on Sonic. Saturn Cam phasers don't have pins. They are only held by the friction with the bolt. On the Saturn from hell. The Saturn from Hell was driven so long with the p0017 code. It actually burned out the convertor. Thanks for tonight's nightmares! 🤣🤣🤣🤣
@2:23 The moment I heard mention of “it rattled for a few seconds until it quieted down” I immediately was reminded of a recent experience where some broken catalytic converter chunks were doing the same thing until the exhaust stream pinned them to an exhaust screen. Nothing to do with the issue in the video though since the problem was revealed @27:02 Why wasn’t “data stream” selected under the trouble code @18:17 rather than clicking back twice to select data stream? Rather than chicken-scratching notes, I like typing them on Google Docs.
Thanks for your explaination it's a great help I have the same issue ,I check this, but on my car a garage change timing belt remove camshaft actuator,now it leaks oil and i thinks the engine oil is not the good for this engine.
Nice teaching video, but 99 percent of the camshaft correlation codes on these for me seem to be resolved with a cheap Dorman CMP actuator and an oil and filter change of correct viscosity. I know it makes a mess , but I sometimes even fired up the engine for a split second to purge the oil galley of any possible debris that could stick the new solenoid. Some rags or something to mediate the oil shooting out might be wise🤣
Does this motor use a chain? Wifes uses a chain, not happy about the eco crap. Guess they came in two flavors chain or belt. Didn't see post 2 years ago, still enjoy your videos 😂😂😂
That happens in diagnostics. What about the computer in the older car and the one in the wrecked car? Different programs? What about the flex plates? Same or different? Did it slip? Did anyone use starting fluid to see if the engine would run? How do you know that the injectors are squirting? Was the wrecked car's engine damaged in the wreck? Any safety shut offs preventing fuel flow from the tank to the injector pump? Lack of battery power from the battery to the tank's pump? Any fuel in the tank? Someone put gasoline in the tank? Water in the diesel fuel? Just thinking of possibilities.
Hi Ivan, I'm with you with the idea that parts are designed to fail, that valve has a screen at the output, why put screens at the intake? Planned obsolesce... I now believe that many of the parts that we can obtain from other sources for our autos (if they have a processor) are pared to the main computer and therefore will not work properly, like the Apple I phone that we needed to start a law suit to change, right of repair act. so we must now buy our parts only from the manufacturer! Rich
That engine on the 2008 Saturn Astra had a service note to remove the filters from the cam solenoids. The part might have been revised but I'm not sure.
There is a GM service bulletin stating that the screens should be removed after running in and a few oil changes as they were only ment to screen the initial metal swarf in new engines.
I expect that you will have a long and prosperous future due in large part to automotive engineers poor selection of materials in actuators of this kind, especially pressure applications. Those engineers are making plenty of work for you and other repair specialists. Plastic engine parts, such a great idea.
Mechanic in training here. Please don't ever stop making these videos. I learn more here than I do in school
Ha yup best way to learn is hands-on, real-world case studies and having a good mentor :)
Make sure to look up "Watch wes work" and "South main auto" -- They both have very good videos too, using scan tools and scopes, just like this channel.
@@calholli already do my friend. I have also learned a great deal from Eric O
school is to teach you how to teach yourself
Every mechanic stays in training.......😃
Ironic that the thing intended to prevent debris entering the valve became the debris that entered the valve...
No shiest. This is caused by. Running non synthetic oil.
@@thething4763 no it's because it's plastic
Those engines are the greatest piece of hot garbage with a frozen turd sandwich laid gently on top.
Stay gold.
@@dnlmachine4287 "Korean Jukebox"
@@TheOzthewiz Hahahahahaaa oh thats great.
Stay gold.
Does everyone give Ivan a thumbs up before they watch the video? I have been for years. Thanks for all the great content
✋🏽
Biden is doing a great job! Lol!!!!
@@Michael_J_M14 STOP IT, GET HELP, PLEASE ! OH YES, MAGA.
@@srautollc6831 NO SHIT & I WISH IT WAS FUNNY, BUT SADLY, IT'S NOT.
@@Michael_J_M14 I didn't go, I keep to myself unless intruded upon. I also don't " BEAT COPS UP OR PSYCHICALLY FIGHT ", I carry a pistol, so I would just shoot them if need be.
THANKS FOR ASS UM ING THOUGH, MAGA.
This guy is without doubt at the top of his game.
Coby
It's evident to me that he has a level of automotive knowledge and diagnostic skills well above those of the typical mechanic.
I didn't think Auto repair was a Game??
My favourite thing about Ivan is how he always fixes things 98% of the time without new parts
My priority is to fix the car in a reliable and efficient way, and also to save the customer money and time if possible 😁
Leaving the three remaining debris screens there to cause problems 10miles further down the road? Fit new ones. Best way to avoid comeback jobs.
@@johnmurray9526 How much are you willing to bet that those screens are not available as separate parts?
So just goes to show take it to a mechanics garage & customer pays a hell of large some of money to have it fixed & get the car back & its Bloody Worse because the mechanic that worked on this engine didn't do the work & until a gentleman like you come along & diagnose it properly on a scanner & found the problem & you are one Real Nice Guy & knew what you were doing & solved the problem Good on you Sir & it's a Bloody shame that there are so many mechanics that call themselves mechanics that don't find the correct problem & charge the earth & there is a mechanic like you Sir that didn't take you long to find the correct problem & now the motor is running Sweet As Sir Kind Regards Peter & the Customer is Really Happy Now with the Excellent Work that you have done THUMBS UP TO YOU SIR
This is a very common problem with this engine. My brother had the same thing happen to his multiple times. The forums suggest removing the screen on the replacements to prevent the issue from happening.
Great diag Ivan.after 47 years of doing this still learn from great techs like you.
It is sad the customer spent so much money for essentially nothing. You came along & diagnosed the issue in a very short period of time. Well done Ivan. It will be interesting to see if the catalyst issue is directly related the the valve train issue, IE unburnt fuel making it's way into the catalyst due to the timing issue caused by the stuck actuator that you cleared.
At 7yrs old it is probably due for a timing belt anyway. Timing belt is cheap insurance compared to buying a new engine.
Disagree. As Ivan noted. Timing belt was changed. Vehicles over 100k mark. Timing belts must be changed as a maintenance procedures. I've had customers refuse timing belt replacement. A few months later. Timing belt broke. Now they need an entire kit. Including water pump replaced. Next they want to refuse water pump.
So I refuse the work. They replace belt only. No idlers either.
Next part is busted is belt due to busted idlers. They are back to where I recommended done.
The timing belt service was due. And these videos are edited, a short video could realistically cover hours or days of actual work.
@@2nickles647 The customers are lucky they only need "the kit" vs a NEW ENGINE!
@@TheOzthewiz Yep.. Just depends whether it is an "interference engine or not.
They say even hypochondriacs get sick. You fixed, beautifully I should add, one issue and up pops another one that was being hidden. Great job Ivan!
He just seems to get better and better. So much patience. Fun to watch.
There is a TSB on the Chevy Cruze to remove the these screens. The filter screen on the end is to remain in place. I ordered GM/Delco replacements. I replaced both solenoids as both had broken plastic. One was made in Germany. The other was made in China. Both OEM.
The first suggestion on the Cruze is to check oil level and quality. Change oil and filter if last oil change is unknown.
It's a Cruze ... You know the oil has never been changed in it's life. lol
@@calholli My Daughter’s Cruze has been changed every 5K. It has over 176K. I replaced both VVT solenoids and it runs better than when she purchased it. I am glad it is the 1.8L and not the 1.4 turbo.
A TRUE mechanic . Props to you on knowing how to properly scan and troubleshoot/ diag. prior to repairs or throwing parts at it!!
The more I watch and learn from your videos the more I'm glad that my newest out of 5 GM vehicles is a 1998! No over-complicated timing components.
...and no power 😉
Keep your old rides 😉
@@peto22 I don't know about that. I had a supercharged 3800 1998 Grand Prix and it certainly wasn't slow and I got 30 MPG between Phoenix and Las Vegas.
@@peto22 with power comes great headaches with anything alloytec lol
@@satamanschmidt3428 gm's 3800 was a great motor. Never done a timing chain on one of those. Used here in Australia up to 2003-04 before the alloytec lumped in with swiss cheese timing chains. Pity it wasnt swiss precision 🤣
Sadly I own one of these cars. I feel like i am constantly chasing issues with it. Not this issue so far! Thank you for sharing your amazing diagnostic skills.
Some of these have a plastic spacer in the early designs. It goes in the end of the cam between the cam and phaser. I think there was a TSB about some missing.
Also, cams are not keyed, rely on just the attaching streach bolt. If it's the engine I'm thinking of.
Super smart individual, I think the diagnostic terms/abilities goes way above normal people. Plus you are straight to the point, with no fun. I think that is a big reason for not blowing up on subs.
There is even a service bulletin to remove those meshes. Good job Ivan!
Thats true, the meshes are only necessary during run-in time of the (new) motor. For already advanced milage one should remove these filters on the solenoids!
I've learned so much watching your methodologies. Especially the cam/crank correlation stuff. Was able to diagnose and resolve a jeep 4.0 cam correlation code with my dual trace lab scope and comparing to known good traces online... ended up being the distributor gear installed backwards in the china factory, pushing the cam timing off by 1/2 tooth or approx 6 degrees.
VERY NICE !!!! Great job bud....
How did you come to that conclusion after seeing bad signals? Just a visual inspection?
My son has a 09 GTI with a 2.0. Bought a larger turbo and that company also supplies a tune. Uploads it and cam timing issues on the exhaust cam. He pulls the solenoid because he thought it was a sensor or solenoid issue. His lower screen was gone. Totally. He deals with a speed shop that specializes in VW's. Good rep. The owner says it's an ongoing issue with those motors, so he always removes all the screens from the solenoid on all motors he builds. Never had a problem and most of his engines are for racing. My son came over and we were discussing the problem and I told him it has to be a bad tune due to it only appearing after new tune was uploaded and to upload the stock tune. He did and problem was gone.
My point being this is sounding more of an issue weather the screens are clogged, missing or broken and jammed like yours from different mfg.
My sons motor had over 200K mile on it, so he bought a low milage motor from the junkyard and had the speed shop rebuild that one so missing screen is also no longer a future issue with the old motor. He swapped the motors out about 4 weeks ago and broke in the new motor. Having the speed shop dyno and tune the new motor tomorrow.
It's amazing that you post this one and I just went through this with my son and daughter's car. Daughter had a bad CVVT on her exhaust cam. Thank goodness it was under warranty. 2018 Hydia Elantra.
Thanks' and keep them coming.
Hi Ivan , great video . The next plastic part in the vvt system to break up is the plastic oil control tube which phaser bolts go through which feeds phasers . The debris spreads . Can't wait for part 2 👍
I regularly deal with that engine in the UK, one thing to note for future is the camshaft reluctors are pressed onto the camshafts and quite often people move them by using them to hold the camshafts when tightening the cam sprockets, even though the cams have flats for a spanner. This causes a real headache when using a scope to check cam positions.
He checked to make sure they were parallel at TDC. They were still good.
Solid diag Ivan! Man this poor customer has been put threw the ringer. Hopefully the cat and O2's have a warranty. Thanks for sharing 👍
2008 Astra has same solenoids; there was a "Service Note" to remove the orange screens. The dieseling for a few seconds at cold startup typically is a failing camshaft gear. For P0420, a leaky flex pipe is first check.
Definitely the best mechanic and diagnostic technician on UA-cam by far. I recently bought my mother a 2014 sonic lt because she is 84 years old and her Chrysler convertible was getting just a little to big and sloppy for her precision driving technique.
That and the sonic only had 110k and didn't have a single drip mark, leak,carbon stain, or any discoloring under the hood. And it's a Chevy so the A/C has a snow setting It literally looked brand new or barley broken in. I it was my first time buying a car that I felt like I got a awesome deal and is worth every penny of the 6k. Well after 8 months the water pump started leaking so I was like let's see what else I can do preventative maintenance wise while I'm under her bonnet ...and omg not only can I replace water pump timing belt tensioner and idler pulleys motor mount plugs thermostat and I needed to get an actuator arm for the intake tuning valve all for less than 400 bucks and after watching your chanel and a few others just because I don't like mechanical surprises total labor was about 6 hours minus the 2 hours of cussing and cranking, jacking and jerking, I had to carefully remove the 3 T-45 water pump bolts while have to use an improvised 8mm ratchet wrench while putting pressure on the tensioner pulls to lock the water pump pulls in place to break the bolts without stripping them (so after 3 attempts I quit for the day and got a fresh start and instead of using the tension on the belt I used my oversized flathead screwdriver and used it to hold the pulley in place by wedging it in-between the pulley bolts and they broke easy.......anyway your channel is amazing over 1100 vehicle videos and almost 300 of them GM so needless to say hello I'm Joe your recent subscriber 😂
Nice technical breakdown of the fault and problem solving. I would have gone right to the solenoid thinking low oil pressure or a faulty unit.
Not knocking anymore after debris removed engine running smoother very nice find looks like a confirmed fix Ivan good Repair and Find Ivan @Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics
You can't replace the water pump first, w/o first replacing the oil pump. Must take the oil pump out and carefully take it apart in solvent, after releasing the 50 ft./lbs. cap nut that holds it in. The factory pump kit for first 2.4 ECOTECS HAD PARTS THE NECESSARY FOR THE 2 VVT SPROCKETS THAT HAD TO BE CLEANED AND ONE REINSTALLED ON THE FRONT END OF EACH OF TWO CAM SHAFTS. THE WATER PUMP KIT HAD NO PARTS FOR THE OIL PUMP REPAIR BUT THE OLD PUMP THAT KEEPS OIL PRESSURE ON THE TIMING CHAIN HAS TO BE FIXED BY USING A BUNCH OF OEM PARTS FROM GM TO ALLOW THE DEALER ENOUGH TIME TO FIX THE WATER PUMP AND TO CHECK AND REPLACE THE OIL PUMP AND KEEP THE OIL PRESSURE UP AND THE TIMING IN SYNC WITH THE CRANK. YOU CAN TAKE THESE APART BLIND-FOLDED IF YOU UNDERSTAND WHY THIS WORKS AND HOW GM MANAGED TO SCREW ANY NON-PROFESSIONAL OWNER/DIYER BY GIVING THEM INSUFFICIENT PARTS AND INSTRUCTIONS AND ENOUGH TIME TO FIX IT.
Just found your channel, I love diagnosing modern cars. It's just rewarding to use some logic rather than the parts cannons.
That pico scope is a game changer with it showing degrees, wish I had one but don't do cars for a living. I use a normal 2 channel scope and a good meter with frequency counter which can give you a good idea what's going on if you know how to use them.
I truly enjoy watching you and South main auto channel's and try to mimic your diagnostics when working on my '95 F250 and '12 dodge grand caravan but so far haven't had any electrical issues.
Wow, that's cool diagnosis too find the broken screen!! Nice job Ivan. I think the cats were clogged due to the rich or lean mixture? Idk. But it needs the screen ţ to filter out impurities to make it work. That's my guess. So needs new solenoids and let's see part 2 and what happens with the p0420 code!
well the oil gets filtered in the oil filter already, so if between the oil filter and the solenoid there's nothing that puts big particles in the oil, then the screens will do nothing. So I think there's only a small chance that removal of the mesh screens will cause a problem
Great detective work Ivan, thank you for fixing my little econobox :D
My pleasure Tobin! Part 2 gets more fun :D
You are a madman!! Great videos and knowledge. Please keep them coming!
It reminds me of myself 50 years ago in this business take it apart find out what makes it tick what makes it fail and is there a possible way to prevent it down the road looks to me at the rate he's going he will learn more by stepping on his feet a few times then a lot of guys do through entire career of doing this of just throwing parts at it I love seeing the surprise look on his face during the videos when something happens he didn't expect sometimes we all get tongue-tied explaining these types of issues but I'm sure that it's going 240 through his head and he wants to get the job done and done correctly
I've replaced many many of these solenoids on the 2.4 ecotech,in fact GM has a TSB on these too ,it also helps if the owner changes oil on time as these motors will varnish heavily too.
That’s awesome! Those oil control solenoids almost seem like they need a service interval for cleaning! I’ve seen very dirty screens lately especially when people don’t change their oil often.
Nice job Ivan. It's also recommended not to put solenoids into magnetic trays as it can damage them. Never seen that happen personally but just something I've read.
Mild magnet effect collects metallic particles and maybe that’s the reason
That's true with parts like that you should always use OEM parts and if I was the customer I wouldn't mind having no filter as long as the oil is clean it's all right 👍
So at this point it seems VVT solenoids are going to be a maintenance item just like the timing belts.
I tend to agree. Oil change intervals also will have to be strictly adhered to validate manufactures warranty.
Only for GM 😂
(While realising that models vary) I was reading about some Suzuki I think, that had VVT, but it didn't activate until something like 4,700 rpm, and upwards. That's a lot of extra complexity, parts and possible future breakdowns, for an engine which, in a small economy car, that in a typical "family car" use, will never ever be revved up to that high of an RPM. I realise that conditions vary across countries, including social norms, but most cars I have bought are already about 20 years old, sometimes more, and I'm always trying to tease the longest possible lifespan from the engine, gearbox and brakes etc. Currently the 2 different cars I drive are a 4 cyl Suzuki 4 speed auto (with the big 1 litre engine LOL) and a 2 litre 5 speed manual Peugeot convertible. The legal speed limit (strictly enforced here) is reached at a bit over 3,000rpm in top gear, of both cars. In my time of owning these cars, I'd never have even reached 4,000 rpm, let alone ever exceeded that speed. This area is flatter than most pancakes, but on the rare occasions I've driven over some steep hills, I'd never dream of exceeding 3,000 rpm, in a lower gear while hillclimbing. I reckon VVT is just extra shite waiting to break down and go wrong. OK maybe for competition racecars, but for folks wanting simple reliable cheap transportation... an unnecessary complication.
@@letmethinkv I had to replace them both on a ‘17 equinox at just 80k miles. It definitely didn’t help my prejudice against GM.
anything with a computer is a maintenance car,,dont buy them..
This seems like a deja vu moment. Was there another video with a similar situation with some little plastic thing stuck in a solenoid (or something) recently? An amazing diagnoses.
Yep, I remember that one too and was thinking the same thing. Iirc Ivan used an SMP solenoid, and it turned out to be OEM.
Our 2011 HHR 2.2 ECOTEC has been a great engine with 200,000 original miles we recently changed spark plugs..ignition coils..flushed out radiator filled with Dexcool..R/R front struts & rear shocks..R/R tranny mounts & engine mounts..Runs like Brand New 👍
The Astra's main ground wire from the starter to the battery typically corrodes right at the starter. It shows low voltage at the battery terminals (compared to the alternator we saw a 0.8v drop). One can run a new ground strap. That extra voltage seems to pep these engines a lot but not sure why (maybe better spark?)
I almost always have installed a 10 gauge ground strap on my engines to the body of the car and then from the body to the battery. Like you had said about corrosion happens and I just like to take 10 mins and prevent issues.
Excellent diagnoses Ivan 😊👍 Amazing with plastic debris from the screen on intake solenoid. Maybe the new solenoid have metal cap screen instead of plastic one's. Great video and looking forward for part 2 😊
Great diagnostic, Ivan! I saw "Part 1" in the title and when you said "this car is fixed", there had to be something else :-) Not the original fault, but the money light is on - let's wait for Part 2 :-)
Good job! You put the scope on it and got right to the point! Looking forward to the second part.....
Thanks!
Wasn't expecting to watch the whole thing in one go tonight, great stuff. I don't know much about cars, just what I had to fix on my 99 corolla in the course of about 10 years of ownership; these diagnostic videos are fascinating though. I'm hoping my 2013 Sonic is kind to me, once I get that final(lower one) motor mount swapped out I hope the vibration at idle goes away completely. Seems GM just cheaped out on their part selection, really stupid and unfortunate. I hear the mounts go bad at least every 5 years. With my sensitive back I may do them sooner than that, not the funnest thing.
So, Ivan, remove the debris from the jammed valve, reinstall the valve, check for normal operation....
Return car to customer, NO PARTS REQUIRED, eh?
OK, I just had to make a joke. But we saw this kind of problem on an earlier video of yours as well. I don't remember which one, wasn't that long ago, but it had debris in the hydraulic valve as well.
Love your videos man.
Thanks for the video, my little Sonic is getting to the 97500 mile mark and doing that little clicking noise. Thinking this might be the issue. I'm not sure I'm going to be able to do this, but I appreciate the time and effort that was put into making it. My only comment, is I wish you had shown all the steps with removing all the things you removed to get them out of the way. Those are the parts that scare me.
The euro bolts (aka Torx, Torx plus) are for manufacturability, much less tool wear.
I was gifted my aunts 2013 sonic with 105k miles on it(she even drove it 5 or 6 hours to me since she flies for free, took a plane back). I was sad to let go of my 99 Corolla, but it had over twice the mileage and burns a lot of oil. I'm rolling the dice on the Sonic I guess. Already have had to deal with vibrations at idle due to motor mounts(that look perfectly fine when you pull them out). I've replaced the top two and it did help a ton with it, so hoping the bottom one gets rid of it altogether, I have a sensitive spine so it was really bugging me.
They also don't tell you the motor mount bolts are TTY and need replacing after one use, and you can't easily google what size to buy to get them preemptively. That was a little basket of confusion and stress. As far as I know the Corolla has the original mounts with no issues whatsoever.
Haven't watched the videos yet but I'm interested in learning more, kind of scared I was gifted a money pit, but they took care of it(got it new) and took it to the dealership for all scheduled maintenance.
A filter jammed up the works. Really great find/fix Ivan. I have a new "X Tool D8" and watching both B1S2 and B2S2 I can see, in graph form, how the B2S2 is showing the performance problem for the bank 2 cat. (P0430 code) It intermittently follows B2S1, all while bank 1 cat is working as designed.
There is more needed testing but I was watching this from the driver's seat. Really Cool!
The vehicle is 16+ years old, runs great, probably needs the cat.
Great case study. I've seen the screens blown out on those solenoids before but never seent one that actually blocked the actuation of it.
These 1.8 valvetrains are really sensitive to oil. They run great with full synthetic (DEXOS) in newish condition. They run terrible with older oil and with non-DEXOS.
Ivan is absolutely the NPR KING. Just amazes me his ability to sniff out issues and so many times he doesn’t even need parts to fix the vehicle. It’s like watching Jordan ball, Picasso paint, etc. etc.
He's what happens when you turn a scientist into a mechanic. Now there are damn few that make that career change, for obvious reasons, but that's primarily what Ivan is.
I am a tech of over 20 years. I wish shop owners would give more than 5 mins for a total diagnostic check. Sometimes ( most of the time) it causes parts to be thrown at a car with no actual repair. Those of us who take the time needed to properly diagnose are considered worthless and a waste of money to a shop.
@@jtbuilds9176 OBVIOUSLY, if you fix the car with no parts required and Joe Blow does it by selling a new engine who's the star in the eyes of the shop owner? Why anybody wants to be in this trade amazes me.
@@satamanschmidt3428 I wish I had not made this my career choice but over 20 years in what can I do? I don't know anything else other than to move around when it gets to scammy.
Wow, what a coincidence! Just bought a '15 chevy sonic for my daughter I'm happy to know how easy it was to fix. Not mentioned was whether this was a turbo
1.8 is not a turbo
Nice find On the Debris from the broken filter Stuck in the pintle on the intake cam oil Solenoid Ivan wow that is a impressive Failure @Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics
Hi Ivan, great subject, did you check to see if the static timing of the belt was okay?
You were talking about Inlet and Exhaust camshaft sync, but did you check that the marks on ALL three cam belt pullies lined up when crankshaft is TDC?
There are no marks on the cam sprockets...you have to look at the cam cutouts :)
damn, i love your videos
Its amazing to see your skills and ability to diagnose. While I seem to always fall into the category of "learned helplessness" when i try to diagnose things, its extremely helpful to hear your voice in my head telling me to check the fundamentals first.
It really helps that you were also able to hear something funky going on mechanically on startup.
It's nice to see a true analytical mechanic instead of a parts changer.👍
Thy part one. That was awesome now I no what I'm looking for great video. Going to check it out over the weekend again that's that helped me out like you couldn't believe
Direction of movement on the solenoid might go either way depending on polarity applied. So there might be a permanent magnet in the core of the solenoid.
Another "fun" thing is if the permanent magnet for some reason decides to change polarity.
Not sure if these solenoids works that way though.
Someone explain to me how a "shop" could return a car to a customer in this condition after taking their money?
This is my experience with 2 local DEALERSHIPS ( IN THE LAST 3 MONTHS ) with my Merc. Montego. Car stopped running when put it reverse, wouldn't restart or crank, battery GREAT, HELL CAN'T EVEN GET IT OUT OF PARK NOW ?
So 2 shops looked at it & couldn't communicate with Computer. Both shops gave up said it might be a fuse ? Did you check the fuses I asked ? No because we can't Communicate with Computer, WTF ? BOTH DEALERSHIPS SAID THIS.
So had a Mobile Mechanic specializing in Keys, thought maybe my key Battery died, NOPE, SAME THING CAN'T COMMUNICATE WITH COMPUTER, PROBABLY A FUSE ?
The problem right now is BOTH DEALERSHIPS ARE HIRING FOR DIAG. SPECIALIST'S, SAW IT ADVERTISED IN THE LOCAL PAPER & OTHER INDEPENDENT SHOPS ALSO. So you get what you get RIGHT NOW, NOBODY KNOWS WHAT THEY'RE DOING.
I have to find a way to get Sir Ivan to look at it but the DAMN CAR IS STUCK IN PARK & I LIVE ABOUT 2 HOURS AWAY, ROUGHLY.
@@NoWr2Run: Just saw interview with owner of several dealerships on SoCal where he said they are losing HUGE revenue due to shortage in techs. They are being forced to schedule cars for service 5-7 days in the future, and customers finding other options. They need to pay techs better; PERIOD.
@@hightttech AGREED, because in my experience " A TECH. " would have at least looked further into the problem, not just sent me on my way saying a fuse might be blown ? HELL CAN'T THEY EVEN CHECK FOR BLOWN FUSES ?
It's definitely a BIG PROBLEM EVERYWHERE. T.y. for your reply.
@@NoWr2RunThere may be a way to bypass the parking lock if it's a center console shifter look for a small plastic cover. Should be right around the shifter take it out and put a small screw driver and should come out of park. Otherwise look it up online hope this helps if you get it out of park try to start in neutral.
@@frizzlefry1921 YA, It's got a floor shifter. THANKS, I'll try that, EVERY DAMN THING IS PLASTIC.
First time watching. Great, methodical diagnostic skills! Subscribed!
For mine. I replaced 02 sensors. And all temperature sensors. One zzp high performance coil. That I bought from eBay. The sensors were all OEM. The coil pack was after market. With a five star rating. I even added ordinary ac Delco spark plugs. That solved my problem. I did replace both the MAF sensor and the MAP sensor. Runs like a champ. Lastly a engine air filter. No more hesitation to accelerate when making a complete stop. Use the Force obi wan. That computer will keep you scratching your head. It's bad sensors. Bad coil
Another good video, this is the first video I’ve watched in a while as I’ve been busy with my own UA-cam journey but something to learn from Ivan 🔧💯🔧
Ivan, is the best and the hell with the rest!
I always give Ivan thumbs up before I even watch this video.
Love your videos, interesting that whatever prompted the owner to buy that replacement solenoid would have fixed it in one, despite the country of origin of the part.
I had an older ' belt cam ' - no variable cam engine that from it spinning backwards a few turns made the belt skip over three whole teeth at the crank.
It had about 10 horsepower and barely ran. It was hard to diagnose as it showed no codes. It made a slight ticking noise which after I figured it out was apparently the valves touching.
I was lucky it didn't jump four.
Great detective work. Kudos to Ivan the magician.
Thanks, must be very satisfying when you chase down the fault, and bingo you find the bad guy.
You have some rare skills, hope they make you rich.
The money saved in higher mpg is spent in repairs.sorta evens out...
Ivan,
Great diagnosis, analysis and NPR fix on the P0016!
Paul (in MA)
One code down, 2 to go!
Had a similar fault in a Holden Barina ,Chevrolet Sonic.After a lot of testing I decided to do a current draw test on the solenoids. The faulty one was drawing about 4amps from memory. It's was stuck.The good one was around 1.7amps
Congratulations, excellent service very honest mechanic!
Very cool. I was expecting you to do a bidirectional test on the valves at some point, but the scope wins again. Thanks Ivan!
Nice Nice Call- Goodlookin' out,Ivan!
Ivan thought he was done....no sir, it's a chevy!
Has it got a good oil change history and used quality oil? If it comes back with the same code in the future, it'll probably have some of the screen in the pulley assembly.
I gotta tell you , I hope it sounds better in person than it does over the microphone.
So the source of the debris is a plastic framed screen that's there to keep out debris? Makes you wonder if it's best to remove the corresponding screen from the exhaust side too.
When the phasers lock, it simply drops a pin down into a hole. If that hole has gunk or a piece of plastic or something in it-- that will prevent it from locking. But the fact that it did lock when you were hand cranking the engine-- kinda says that's not the case and that it's likely the oil control that's not acting right. I'm with you so far. (I'm 16 mins in).
For only $100 for both solenoids, I would have replaced both with OEM GM (Germany) parts. What's another $100 when you have already spent $1000 on that shyte-box.
@@TheOzthewiz I agree. He hadn't pulled the solenoids yet when I wrote this.. I think it's a shame that they even put those little screens on there at all; when they could easily mount a little secondary oil filter right there next to the solenoid oil inputs, so that you could easily change that filter when you do regular oil changes. . I guess they thought making you change out the solenoids was already cheap enough.
Your great man so good at explaining and easy to follow and listen to! Keep it up 👍🏻
One last thing check all vacuum lines. And especially around the turbo charger. From the air cleaner. That it's connected and tight. Any air leaks will cause problems.
Thanks my friend. Now I am having flash backs of the Saturn from Hell. I don't know on Sonic. Saturn Cam phasers don't have pins. They are only held by the friction with the bolt. On the Saturn from hell. The Saturn from Hell was driven so long with the p0017 code. It actually burned out the convertor. Thanks for tonight's nightmares! 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Manufacturers recommend removal of screens on solenoids after initial running in of engine,, I had similar issues with mine
When the screen intended to stop debris from gumming up the works... becomes the debris that gums up the works.
@2:23 The moment I heard mention of “it rattled for a few seconds until it quieted down” I immediately was reminded of a recent experience where some broken catalytic converter chunks were doing the same thing until the exhaust stream pinned them to an exhaust screen. Nothing to do with the issue in the video though since the problem was revealed @27:02
Why wasn’t “data stream” selected under the trouble code @18:17 rather than clicking back twice to select data stream? Rather than chicken-scratching notes, I like typing them on Google Docs.
I had a Kia that had sucked the screen in the solenoid and gave a similar issue. Thanks Ivan!
Thanks for your explaination it's a great help I have the same issue ,I check this, but on my car a garage change timing belt remove camshaft actuator,now it leaks oil and i thinks the engine oil is not the good for this engine.
Nice teaching video, but 99 percent of the camshaft correlation codes on these for me seem to be resolved with a cheap Dorman CMP actuator and an oil and filter change of correct viscosity. I know it makes a mess , but I sometimes even fired up the engine for a split second to purge the oil galley of any possible debris that could stick the new solenoid. Some rags or something to mediate the oil shooting out might be wise🤣
Does this motor use a chain? Wifes uses a chain, not happy about the eco crap. Guess they came in two flavors chain or belt. Didn't see post 2 years ago, still enjoy your videos 😂😂😂
That happens in diagnostics. What about the computer in the older car and the one in the wrecked car? Different programs? What about the flex plates? Same or different? Did it slip? Did anyone use starting fluid to see if the engine would run? How do you know that the injectors are squirting? Was the wrecked car's engine damaged in the wreck? Any safety shut offs preventing fuel flow from the tank to the injector pump? Lack of battery power from the battery to the tank's pump?
Any fuel in the tank? Someone put gasoline in the tank? Water in the diesel fuel?
Just thinking of possibilities.
Hi Ivan, I'm with you with the idea that parts are designed to fail, that valve has a screen at the output, why put screens at the intake? Planned obsolesce...
I now believe that many of the parts that we can obtain from other sources for our autos (if they have a processor) are pared to the main computer and therefore will not work properly, like the Apple I phone that we needed to start a law suit to change, right of repair act. so we must now buy our parts only from the manufacturer!
Rich
What's better than no parts required ? NEGATIVE PARTS REQUIRED ! a sonic/cruze with a p0420? nooooooo never lol
Just rebuilt one of these.lack of maintenance
Nice job! Thanks for taking the time to educate us 😊
That engine on the 2008 Saturn Astra had a service note to remove the filters from the cam solenoids. The part might have been revised but I'm not sure.
There is a GM service bulletin stating that the screens should be removed after running in and a few oil changes as they were only ment to screen the initial metal swarf in new engines.
I expect that you will have a long and prosperous future due in large part to automotive engineers poor selection of materials in actuators of this kind, especially pressure applications. Those engineers are making plenty of work for you and other repair specialists. Plastic engine parts, such a great idea.