Don't know why this took so long to pop up in my recommendations. I wish it had done so sooner because I've had two of these cars and had pretty much the exact same experience. It's funny to read the comments from folks who have never owned one. It's hard to explain how bad this car is out of the box. I've been running RS4s for over 20 years and this one is the worst of the bunch. Before I get into this, lets make one thing clear. This "Sport" edition car was built for bashing. It does not contain or include one single "Pro" level component. The stock suspension on this car is not adjustable. It is not built for spotless and perfectly maintained surfaces. It's built to bash in the street. I will NEVER sweep or make any attempt to clean my street other than kicking larger rocks out of the way. I've never had to do that for any car I've ever owned and I'm not going to start now. First off, the suspension and chassis might as well be made of rubber. It twists, bends, flexes and does everything but stay straight. This is why this car is so unpredictable and will not track properly. It torque-twists in every direction at once. Add brushless power to the mix and it gets even worse. Here's a simple test. Take a stock RS4 3 Sport out of the box, remove the body, push down on the rear suspension and watch what happens. Every piece of plastic will bend and flex while the shocks do almost nothing. The stock springs are so stiff that the cheap plastics would rather bend than compress the shocks properly. It's not limited to the suspension either. The entire chassis twists with ease. Even the shock towers flex. How can a car possibly handle well when the chassis bends in every direction at once? AVC helps but it's only a band-aid solution. I have it in mine and this car would still randomly veer off at times. Not one of the other half-dozen touring cars that I own at this time requires a gyro to drive a straight line down the street. One of those cars is 20+ years old, also goes 70+ mph and it has never needed assistance to go in a straight line, because the suspension actually works properly! To fix it, I bought the Yeah Racing aluminum essentials upgrade kit and carbon fiber shock towers. This removes all suspension twist and the car instantly starts to feel like a proper touring car. I went for the HPI shocks too although they certainly are not a requirement. I tried softer springs but with the suspension now working properly, the stock springs ended up being the better choice for me. Of course, I have to be more careful with it now but that's not really an issue now that it drives properly. Then there's the steering issue. I tried velcro under the bellcrank. I built rock flaps. I built an entire shroud around the front end. None of it worked. If there is a pebble in the street, I'll find it and then I'll be running down the road to retrieve the car which is now stuck turning in circles while the servo overheats. It happened to me on the very first run and killed the stock servo. It still happens to me today. You know that fancy sealed drivetrain that was supposed to fix the age-old problem of rocks in the belts? Yeah... Nope! Still happens, only now it's 10 minutes of wrenching and digging micro-pebbles out of the gears instead of 10 seconds of popping a rock out of a belt. Not even the carbon fiber chassis brace will stop this thing from twisting far enough to open a gap in bottom slot to let tiny rocks in. So yeah... Not one of HPI's better vehicles. If you read all this, thanks! Here's a video of my RS4 Sport 3 and its upgrades. ua-cam.com/video/oGc4aYXtS4E/v-deo.html
StormdriverOne you pretty much summed up the experience. One of the only RCs cars I’ve sold. Thought all touring cars were this finicky and didn’t buy another until this year. Bummer that I didn’t know how much fun they could be. Glad I got that Tamiya Buggyra and realized what fun could be had on-road.
@@CCxRC I'm telling it to the world man. As a 20+ year HPI fanboy, I freaking love my Tamiyas. I got the TT-02D Type S for drifting but I'll slap street tires on it with a 4600KV Castle on 3S and rip it down the street at 50+ mph and love every second of it. It doesn't need a gyro. A bump isn't gonna stop it and it laughs at the tiny pebbles that stop my HPIs in their tracks. And although I love my WR8 and have never had this same steering issue with it as others have, if you ever want to try an absolutely amazing rally car, build yourself an XV-01. Words can't even... it's the best damn car for rough streets I've ever owned. It may be the best car I've ever owned.
Hi...I have a Rs4 Sport 3 , Firebolt 15T...I agree everything you talked about this chassis and plastic bend behavior...but I like so much to run this car on perfect and appropriate surfaces.. the reasoning is: a real street race car will never race in a place where rocks or stones diameter are 1/2 or 1/4 or 1/8 compared to the diameter of car wheel !!! Part of the FUN is customize some steps of TUNING THE CAR FOR RACE... changing tires, coils, fluids in diff...gears..." Bash or not to bash ??"...For me the models are SO EXPENSIVE...( Brazil ) The RC hobby to me , I am not a professional, is like a therapy..to make in small scale , and safe , a RACE TEAM EXPERIENCE... taking note on changes on chassis, an trying to get BEST LAP on circuit... sometimes a change spare parts before they fail and made a inspection on it to get a similar, stronger part...
@@arkadiuszjandylewski152 plastic is not so bad...the aluminum up's are so beautiful but they bend and get slop so easy...The old Thunder Tigers Sparrow Halk have very strong plastic suspension parts... durable
this is really my dream rc car yeah.. xmaxx, slash, e-revo are cool but this is just perfect i mean the body, the paint job and the stickers are beautifull. not only that but the speed is amazing
leeson44 I was going to say something so similar to that. You took the words right out of my mouth. You have to use a little bit of common sense if you already see the body is super low to the ground🤔. He basically asked for it. And I’m a noob to the RC world. But I at least know that and the only reason it doesn’t stay straight is because it has no kind of stabilization control built into it or a gyro. For someone with so many RCs and stuff he doesn’t seem to educated on them, ctfu
I’ve NEVER seen a touring car handle like that. I LOVED HPI back in their prime; this new HPI is such a disappointment. I’m glad I dodged this bullet; thank-you!
The reason it pulls to the left is because that is the way the drive shaft is spinning. I bet if you check the direction the shaft spins, it spins toward the pulled direction. It's from the centrifugal force of the shaft.
I think that could possibly be the absolute sickest looking r/c body I've ever seen !!! and I'm not even a big Porsche fan... they Definitely nail that one on the head.... the body that is , not the rest of it
just an idea but maybe a glitch buster would help. on my scx10 whenever I'd punch the throttle my led would flicker and servo would pull left. the motor was robbing from the receiver, which was robbing from the steering servo. I put on a glitch buster and I helped. I also installed an external bec but just because I wanted brighter lights and stronger steering. Glitch buster worked for me. Also look up dusty motor shrouds. They make chassis covers. Don't know if they have one for your car or not.
I have the king motor RX explorer rally car based on the Apache . It is amazing on 6s . I can full throttle from 0-60mph perfectly straight. It hits 60 in 5seconds . Fit a 20+kg servo and say goodbye to any stearing problems. Also set your droop screw's evenly and enjoy
I had the same problem, I used Gorilla Tape to make my own rock shield. I covered up the servo, steering arms and up to the front diff.. On the tape, sticky side to sticky side. This will give you a non stick canvas.. Then cut and shape to your desired need the use more gorilla tape to fasten to the chassis..
that's a great idea. Just feels like the book in the movie ELF that went to press without the ending. I think this problem would've been noticed if anyone drove it...yet they still sent it to market.
steering on mine was iffy too, and the front drive shafts kept falling out. ordered more o rings and shoved an extra one each side in the wheel. handles much better now and doesn't spit shafts out every five minutes...
cool.is the steering servo centerd? is awd correct ? so I'd think it should have much issues running straight ..unless somethings off ..suspension ..or suthings throwing it off ..weight..are you abe to zip tie the battery to more center placement may eliminate some guessing..
A quick fix for you pebble problem will be to create a cardboard covering for the inside. I just cut up a cereal box and than taped together a box around and on top of the chassis. I also updated the motor and esc to a Hobbywing Max 10 5400kv, which pushed this puppy to 70 mph, over 80+ using a 27t.
I just bought a rs4 sport 3 flux and idk but the reverse is kind of not working i have to slightly tap the throttle and then turn like brake/reverse and then it‘s going. Am I the only one with this problem or is it „normal“?
Snap steering / direction change under acceleration could be the open diffs. You're hitting bumps under acceleration, spinning up the unloaded wheel and comes back down at different rotation than other wheel causing direction change. my2cents
I would wait for the MST RMX. I can run that where the HPI wouldn’t run. Unfortunately the HPI Ken Block is the same deal with the steering. I really want one, but won’t buy it.
My WR8 steering has never jammed like my RS4 Sport 3 does, even when running in gravel. I did upgrade the steering with a Hot Racing aluminum kit, bearings and a high torque Futaba, but that's the only thing I've ever upgraded on it. While I wouldn't recommend the Sport 3 to my worst enemies, I highly recommend the WR8 to everyone!
It's taken a lot of work to get mine where I want it, because we race in outdoor parking lots. That said, it's pretty clear HPI's "intention" with this car is an indoor track car. We race in concrete (not asphalt) parking lots, and after making a custom shield from Kydex and doing a lot of suspension/chassis tuning, I've got it dialed. There are "better" platforms for driving outside, but if you're and HPI fan, this thing can be awesome, it just takes some effort.
Totally get that. Just shock that it took so little to jam the steering. I just loved the body and was told it was an on road car I could run in parking lots when I bought it. It was my first on-road and just not a good purchase for me.
picked up the E30 brushed version last night, first run the steering rack got hung up due to a pebble within the first 5 minutes. Only 2 packs through her, so far so good....hopefully.
Nice! I lifted mine by adjusting the suspension and it handles way better on surfaces that aren't perfectly smooth. I've also had less issues with the pebbles.
+CCxRC Thanks man, and im pretty sure the pack is what makes the car pull under heavy load, im running the exact same pack as you and it also pulls to the left after about 60% throttle.
I run the same size battery but it onyx and have not had any torque steer problem now it does not always hold true to my setting but I've never had any sudden movements to the left or right and as far as the rocks go this is such a low car you have to keep it on very smooth surfaces because robs get into little tiny places besides that on that size battery this is one of the funnest cars I owned and in no way is a fail, cool video keep making him as I enjoyed it
I would say the HPI 1/10 cars are entry level track cars. The new generation even more track orientated therefore a clean track surface is needed. My belt drive HPIfux 2 is still moving and ive only needed to replace 2 rear belts and tyres.
There you go. I entered the 1/10 scale brush-less hobby as a novice and I still am. Its a way for me to enjoy motorsport at speeds not attainable in real life or on disposable fun tickets. Having said that I have also replaced the esc and an engine mount. Enjoyed your post I hope to see more.
You raise the trucks/shocks then you have some leeway, and the tires too, depending on the brushless motor and 3S battery, pinion/spur gear, I got my HPI sport 2 going 50+ MPH, not so entry level, lol, but that isn't stock of course.
Both my friend and I have the same car. Unless you have a super clear area, the rocks are a pain and bumps can be scary. He wrecked his 1st day and now has to upgrade the dog bones. Sometimes you have to clear the rocks out like every 30 seconds even in open parking lots. The car is fast tho and can go faster with the optional gearing. It looks amazing tho. I found a place to drive it open throttle without any headache finally. I just subbed so Ill follow along.
hi, so i am brand new to rc and just bought an rs4 sport 3 (brz) and i'm having some trouble getting it to actually move. the led on the box thing in front of the motor is blinking and the receiver led is not on at all. any ideas on how to fix it? i really want to test drifting this thing. thanks
Buy four cheap digital scales, put them on the flattest surface you can find (a glass table usually works), and put the car on it with the battery installed. Adjust the preload on all four shocks until the front-left readout matches the front-right readout, and the rear-left-readout matches the rear-right readout, or at least get them so the difference between left vs. right is the same on the front and rear. Then try adding ballast to the lighter side of the car.
Was looking to pick one of these up to convert to a Rally Car. Sounds like near the end you fixed (what sounded like) gear mesh issue. How do you like the car now that you've had it for some time?
My experience want enjoyable. I couldn’t find any place smooth enough to run it. Steering locked up all the time from the smallest rocks. The body sent them straight into the chassis. I sold it. I think it’s the only RC I’ve ever sold. Got a Traxxas 4tec and haven’t had any of the issues I had with this.
This car can't handle the tiny pebbles in my street. It's probably the last car I would ever pick to make a rally car (or any car) out of. My Tamiyas love gravel and dirt. Nothing stops them. My HPI's hate the tiniest of pebbles, especially this one. Honestly, it's the worst touring car chassis I've ever owned in 25 years of bashing touring cars in the road.
StormdriverOne yeah. It’s crazy. Put me off for street cars until I got the Tamiya Buggyra. Then I got the Traxxas 4tec. Both perfectly hand in the same spots that this couldn’t do anything. Shocked how well RC Driver’s appeared to do with his off-road Camaro.
@@CCxRC Yep. I'm a long time HPI fan. I've run them for over 20 years. I've had every RS4 that ever landed on these shores. I hate having to tell people the truth about these new RS4s but you simply will not find it in the articles and reviews of it. The steering issue barely gets a mention and nobody talks about how rubbery the stock plastics are and the effect that has on... well... everything! It's always... "Sweep the track!" or "Your street sucks!" Well... no. It's the car. My other cars don't do this. End of story.
feel like it would be more fun to drive if it were a little heavier, the shocks and tires would engage better. and the cornering more realistic. nice clip though man, thanks for sharing. What's your opinion of the body? I kinda feel like i'd prefer a plain colour body...
Stock servos in most cases are not strong enough to keep your car going straight. Try a 200+ oz servo. Rpm makes shock spacers to limit your down travel. I use them in all my cars. Scratched up chassis plates is a pet peeve of mine. Cant stand it.
3D print some wheel wells. Between the weight of the battery and loose linkages because of those cheap ball cup style tie rods is more then likely the problem. I have video to show how you can eliminate loose tolerance on linkages and steering.
that is a sweet looking car. it does look like the ground clearance really limits where you're able to run it. is it possible that outerwears or dusty motors might make a shroud for it? if not it may be an opportunity to create an aftermarket product. good luck with it man, i hope you get it dialed in the way you want it.
+HD FPV 2015 that's good to know! Thanks for the tip. I've got it running a lot better now. I adjusted the shocks to get more ground clearance and ran it on a smaller battery.
What is the stock speed of that car? I mean how fast it will go on stock gear seat with LiPo 5000mAh 50c 7,4V? 50c will be not to agressive for engine?
Not sure. Couldn’t ever get it up to full speed because it torque steers real bad and the surface had to be perfect to run it. The steering gets jammed by the smallest of rocks that collect in the chassis...even when you think you’ve cleared the road...it finds something to jam it. Not a fan of the steering setup for this car.
@@CCxRC I understand, I want to buy it anyway, because I think its the best looking Porsche in 1:10 scale. I will resign only from high speed gear set, because as I saw its a lot of problems with traction anyway, so I'll run it only on RC track with clear surface. Thx
@@CCxRC We have a new RC track with amazing high grip surface in my hometown and its availalble for all citizens, so thats good ;). Yes, Porsche looks great, only problem is that car is not availalble in Poland for this moment and I need to wait for new delivery to our Country :/.
It is sooooo low to the ground, looks good on the workbench but doesn't work all that good in real life applications. Kind of a bummer cause it looks so darn cool. Wish you can resolve that pebbles in the bell crank issue Tony.
+RC Marty Thanks bud. It didn't have any steering issues with the pebbles today on the fresh asphalt road, but the torque steering is still a huge problem for me to figure out. Might just be a learning curve.
again, sorry to hear about the problem with the bell crank. when doing speed runs, turn the steering rate way down. almost all the way down. you should have to do at least a 3 point turn on that road. it will make it easier to control in high speeds.
+2cwik4u104 I had turned it down all the way, but because of the hard pull when it got faster, I turned it back up to be able to correct out of it. I should've left it all the way down to be able to correct it slowly and build speed. Still learning. No locked up steering issues while running it today. I think I'm going to try it with my Spektrum DX4R Pro to see if I can fine tune it better.
i have the exact same issues i have no idea what could be making the steering the way it is either. it is very frustrating. the rocks are horrible as well wish there was something we could do. other than those 2 things they are awesome. i go through too many tires with my setup lol nice vid thanks. and yea bodies are going fast too my gtr is already broke
at 4:00 sounds like torque steer to me. in real cars that have power to the front wheels ie awd or fwd when you floor it poorly tuned ones or if you have lots of power will cause them to pull to one side. you can remedy by using a stiffer front suspension setup
Throw a higher torque steering servo to control the turning of the wheels on throttle. dollar hobbies has a 266.6 Oz servo for 30 bucks. should work very well with the problem.
i find it crazy they brought back HPI's flagship belt-drive TC, the rs4 (the great grandpa of the Sprint 2) , as a shaft drive touring car. From what ive seen the RS4 3 is a but of a flop, ill stick to my RS4 1 thank you. But the pull is likely caused by the stupid soft servo saver, every RS-4 to date is known for junk servo savers. It could be the car is overpowered and spinning up one set of tires (left or right) because the diff fluid is to thin
It's not really an issue, just a physics thing. Torque steer my friend. Super common on shaft driven 4wd vehicles. Most on road cars do need a good smooth surface. There's nothing better than a freshly paved parking lot lol.
+Theibault I guess I need a better servo that can withstand the torque! I had troubles on our freshly paved road outside our neighborhood too, but it did stay on the ground and had no issues with rocks...just the torque steer - even if I slowly built speed
The reason your car is bouncing and flipping is that you need a proper rc race track thats got smooth surface, i usually go to a track every weekend I have got a HPI Racing Ford Mustang RTR Spec.5
Is there a Outerwears that would fit this car? Or make something out of lexan to cover the bell krank. Balens the car so it's not heavier on one side would help it a lot I think. What motors are you planing on putting in the SCTE? I am thinking of geting one of these for my SCTE. And put body panels on it to make it look like a buggy. www.vgracing.com/product/Ten-SCTE_Roll_Cage.html
The motors are for the SCX10. I might have misspoke. Still not sure on the motors. I'll probably just match the 27T axial I have right now. Have to figure out the ESC setup I want to run. In my SCTE I'm running a Tekin Pro 4
Clearence issue? Stick a set of 2.2s on it :) I always wondered if it was difficult for those guys driving at 80, 80 and even over 100 mph to drive in a straight line - and today you proved it to me!!
CCxRC Ah so - I would imagine the new found speed is a huge contributor to your new toy :) Could also be the fact we are used to soft gripping tyres while this slips and slides at the high speed? Servo reaction time? 2WD and RWD only - NOT helping you :) :) I think one would have to think out of the normal 4x4 box when driving one of these :) Hey can you imagine trying to drift with that ? lololol
Dude, stiffen your springs a little, and move your shocks to the innermost on the front bottom, second from the outside front top. Innermost bottom rear, and second one OUT top rear. You should have way more clearance for the chassis. And have your body mounts either all the way up, or second one down for body clearance. The way it drags to the left in the video, it seems that you popped your front right axle, (the supplied front axles are at least 2mm`s too short) but otherwise, the pulling to one side or another on throttle can be reduced a bit by using o-rings to shim your bellcrank linkage and steering linkages. Less play in the linkages is more stability. It doesn`t hurt to shim the schocks with o-rings either. if you wanna do the whole steering assembly, as well as front and rear shocks you will need 22 o-rings :) The ones used in shocks are nice and stiff. Also the steering servo is a little weak, and a better servo will also give better stability under load. Mine eats spurs and mauled my diff shafts and BENT my front axles, but I resolved the spur gear eating by shimming the supports for the centre axle and spur gear assembly on the inside of the bottom plate. I run mine as a rwd atm, but I`m getting titanium front cvd`s and some hop up parts, and then I`ll worry about the 22 o-rings lol.. :)
+jan christian Frodahl wow! Thanks for all the tips. I will have to try these. I did put a lighter battery in and that helped a lot. I was running a huge 3s 5000mah battery because it was the only one I had with the right connector at the time.
Steering absolutly sucks !!!!!! Wen i gunned it after a slow start it went left or right by itself from hitting a small rock or anything small enough lolol!! and busted my body to pieces against the curb ....it is fast !!!!!!! Really impressive speed for 2s 👍. iam gonna try adjustable turnbuckles and see if that helps tha handling.tha body is really fragile after the rear drags tha ground it must have cought on a uneven surface and just ripped the whole Rear lower back off also tha front of body broke at tha windshield from rubbing tha ground even though i raised the body for clearance.My 3rd time out with this model and i completely destroyed body by just doing speed runs. !!!!☺ i still think its a fun car and i will keep it and upgrade turnbuckles.👍
+TheRedStoneGamer771 I didn't have a speedometer at the time so I don't know. Guessing 55mph stock out of box on 3S. Up to 70mph with a gearing change...
for the steering jamming i don t know what to say because i don t have hpi too expensive. for bashing and the car straight it ll impossible the simple reason too much power and ur battery 3s it too heavy so doesn't help if you want more speed change your motor kv for a higher kv for use 2s battery and to keep it straight while bashing install a gyro and AVCS better control better handling on curve ⤵ look this review and u ll see. ua-cam.com/video/OEUnn822eXE/v-deo.html
reading the manual before first round is always a good idea the lovely thing about the RS4 has several different mounting positions of the shocks and even enlarging the shocks first thing I did with my RS4 was move the top mounts in and the bond amounts owed to the shock which gave me a quarter inch ground clearance and then Harding hardening suspension stiffening the springs went for a nice body roll and stiffness combination Wicked dogs nice drifting and still awesome cornering
+Evan Elton thanks Evan. I was rushing because I was getting ready to head out of the country for work 2 days later. I've been bouncing in and out recently and haven't had time to go in and make the adjustments you mentioned. Can't wait to try. Thanks for the tips.
LOL yes I am terrible for that as well busy life we tend to rip open the box and hit the road. I do apologize to you because I got my dates mixed up between videos and realize that yours was a while back now
Evan Elton lol. Even when I do have time...I tend to come to youtube and forums for advice vs. the manuals, but I'm not sure why. :) I am excited to get back to this car and work on it to get it driving better for my needs. I'll probably also try a smaller 3s battery because the 5000Mah is pretty heavy.
+Bassknots I adjusted the shocks to raise the body and used a smaller battery and it drives much better. Still a little torque steering, but much more manageable.
Hey I'm sorry to hear about it. You might wanna make a shroud from a milk carton or soothing for the bell ranks I have hpi sprint sport 2 flux. Please check out my UA-cam I'm trying a second go at it again. Keep up the great work. Keep the vids coming
bro, I just posted the same issue on my channel....car pulls away fine then a little throttle later it pulls to the right and wants to donut all day....my buddy gave it to me to fix but nothings wrong...good post !!! check me out on always upgrading rc...
Lol that first road is definitely not suitable for a car like that. What you want for those kinds of rc cars are surfaces like a basketball court. Think those kinds of surfaces. I used to bring my road cars to an empty school yard when there was no school in session. I could get elevated by standing on top of playground equipment for better perspective.
CCxRC Totally understandable. They aren't for everyone. ☺ When you find that perfect environment, it's pretty amazing the way they handle though. Thanks for the video!
+Richard Louis Linck I did that as well and still had issues with it steering left. I changed the shock positions to give it more ground clearance and it is doing better overall - even getting less small stones freezing up the steering.
Don't know why this took so long to pop up in my recommendations. I wish it had done so sooner because I've had two of these cars and had pretty much the exact same experience. It's funny to read the comments from folks who have never owned one. It's hard to explain how bad this car is out of the box. I've been running RS4s for over 20 years and this one is the worst of the bunch.
Before I get into this, lets make one thing clear. This "Sport" edition car was built for bashing. It does not contain or include one single "Pro" level component. The stock suspension on this car is not adjustable. It is not built for spotless and perfectly maintained surfaces. It's built to bash in the street. I will NEVER sweep or make any attempt to clean my street other than kicking larger rocks out of the way. I've never had to do that for any car I've ever owned and I'm not going to start now.
First off, the suspension and chassis might as well be made of rubber. It twists, bends, flexes and does everything but stay straight. This is why this car is so unpredictable and will not track properly. It torque-twists in every direction at once. Add brushless power to the mix and it gets even worse. Here's a simple test. Take a stock RS4 3 Sport out of the box, remove the body, push down on the rear suspension and watch what happens. Every piece of plastic will bend and flex while the shocks do almost nothing. The stock springs are so stiff that the cheap plastics would rather bend than compress the shocks properly. It's not limited to the suspension either. The entire chassis twists with ease. Even the shock towers flex. How can a car possibly handle well when the chassis bends in every direction at once?
AVC helps but it's only a band-aid solution. I have it in mine and this car would still randomly veer off at times. Not one of the other half-dozen touring cars that I own at this time requires a gyro to drive a straight line down the street. One of those cars is 20+ years old, also goes 70+ mph and it has never needed assistance to go in a straight line, because the suspension actually works properly!
To fix it, I bought the Yeah Racing aluminum essentials upgrade kit and carbon fiber shock towers. This removes all suspension twist and the car instantly starts to feel like a proper touring car. I went for the HPI shocks too although they certainly are not a requirement. I tried softer springs but with the suspension now working properly, the stock springs ended up being the better choice for me. Of course, I have to be more careful with it now but that's not really an issue now that it drives properly.
Then there's the steering issue. I tried velcro under the bellcrank. I built rock flaps. I built an entire shroud around the front end. None of it worked. If there is a pebble in the street, I'll find it and then I'll be running down the road to retrieve the car which is now stuck turning in circles while the servo overheats. It happened to me on the very first run and killed the stock servo. It still happens to me today.
You know that fancy sealed drivetrain that was supposed to fix the age-old problem of rocks in the belts? Yeah... Nope! Still happens, only now it's 10 minutes of wrenching and digging micro-pebbles out of the gears instead of 10 seconds of popping a rock out of a belt. Not even the carbon fiber chassis brace will stop this thing from twisting far enough to open a gap in bottom slot to let tiny rocks in.
So yeah... Not one of HPI's better vehicles. If you read all this, thanks! Here's a video of my RS4 Sport 3 and its upgrades. ua-cam.com/video/oGc4aYXtS4E/v-deo.html
StormdriverOne you pretty much summed up the experience. One of the only RCs cars I’ve sold. Thought all touring cars were this finicky and didn’t buy another until this year. Bummer that I didn’t know how much fun they could be. Glad I got that Tamiya Buggyra and realized what fun could be had on-road.
@@CCxRC I'm telling it to the world man. As a 20+ year HPI fanboy, I freaking love my Tamiyas. I got the TT-02D Type S for drifting but I'll slap street tires on it with a 4600KV Castle on 3S and rip it down the street at 50+ mph and love every second of it. It doesn't need a gyro. A bump isn't gonna stop it and it laughs at the tiny pebbles that stop my HPIs in their tracks. And although I love my WR8 and have never had this same steering issue with it as others have, if you ever want to try an absolutely amazing rally car, build yourself an XV-01. Words can't even... it's the best damn car for rough streets I've ever owned. It may be the best car I've ever owned.
Plastic, plastic AND PLASTIC!! I do not understand why these companies are not using steel,iron or carbon fibre.
Hi...I have a Rs4 Sport 3 , Firebolt 15T...I agree everything you talked about this chassis and plastic bend behavior...but I like so much to run this car on perfect and appropriate surfaces.. the reasoning is: a real street race car will never race in a place where rocks or stones diameter are 1/2 or 1/4 or 1/8 compared to the diameter of car wheel !!!
Part of the FUN is customize some steps of TUNING THE CAR FOR RACE... changing tires, coils, fluids in diff...gears..." Bash or not to bash ??"...For me the models are SO EXPENSIVE...( Brazil ) The RC hobby to me , I am not a professional, is like a therapy..to make in small scale , and safe , a RACE TEAM EXPERIENCE... taking note on changes on chassis, an trying to get BEST LAP on circuit... sometimes a change spare parts before they fail and made a inspection on it to get a similar, stronger part...
@@arkadiuszjandylewski152 plastic is not so bad...the aluminum up's are so beautiful but they bend and get slop so easy...The old Thunder Tigers Sparrow Halk have very strong plastic suspension parts... durable
this is really my dream rc car
yeah.. xmaxx, slash, e-revo are cool but this is just perfect
i mean the body, the paint job and the stickers are beautifull. not only that but the speed is amazing
you might as well take it on some dirt and rocks.. That street is horrible..
leeson44 I was going to say something so similar to that. You took the words right out of my mouth. You have to use a little bit of common sense if you already see the body is super low to the ground🤔. He basically asked for it. And I’m a noob to the RC world. But I at least know that and the only reason it doesn’t stay straight is because it has no kind of stabilization control built into it or a gyro. For someone with so many RCs and stuff he doesn’t seem to educated on them, ctfu
@@MrKingNica ok so , who asked?
I use fuel cell foam to stop debris getting in. It can be pushed into gaps & doesn’t restrict crank movement. Also use on fans.
I’ve NEVER seen a touring car handle like that. I LOVED HPI back in their prime; this new HPI is such a disappointment. I’m glad I dodged this bullet; thank-you!
The reason it pulls to the left is because that is the way the drive shaft is spinning. I bet if you check the direction the shaft spins, it spins toward the pulled direction. It's from the centrifugal force of the shaft.
Bluemuse182 this is why I'm looking for an affordable belt car😕
I think that could possibly be the absolute sickest looking r/c body I've ever seen !!! and I'm not even a big Porsche fan... they Definitely nail that one on the head.... the body that is , not the rest of it
just an idea but maybe a glitch buster would help. on my scx10 whenever I'd punch the throttle my led would flicker and servo would pull left. the motor was robbing from the receiver, which was robbing from the steering servo. I put on a glitch buster and I helped. I also installed an external bec but just because I wanted brighter lights and stronger steering. Glitch buster worked for me. Also look up dusty motor shrouds. They make chassis covers. Don't know if they have one for your car or not.
+RCDNA Thanks for the tips. I'll check the glitch buster, but I'm thinking it's probably an underpowered servo and I'm getting torque steering.
I have the king motor RX explorer rally car based on the Apache . It is amazing on 6s . I can full throttle from 0-60mph perfectly straight. It hits 60 in 5seconds . Fit a 20+kg servo and say goodbye to any stearing problems. Also set your droop screw's evenly and enjoy
spektrum avc will keep a heading hold. I use it on all my speed vehicles. next is a nitro rs4 3 evo+
I had the same problem, I used Gorilla Tape to make my own rock shield. I covered up the servo, steering arms and up to the front diff.. On the tape, sticky side to sticky side. This will give you a non stick canvas.. Then cut and shape to your desired need the use more gorilla tape to fasten to the chassis..
that's a great idea. Just feels like the book in the movie ELF that went to press without the ending. I think this problem would've been noticed if anyone drove it...yet they still sent it to market.
steering on mine was iffy too, and the front drive shafts kept falling out. ordered more o rings and shoved an extra one each side in the wheel. handles much better now and doesn't spit shafts out every five minutes...
I haven't had that happen yet, but on my fourth real run I stripped the spur gear.
cool.is the steering servo centerd? is awd correct ? so I'd think it should have much issues running straight ..unless somethings off ..suspension ..or suthings throwing it off ..weight..are you abe to zip tie the battery to more center placement may eliminate some guessing..
Regarding the steering, you may need to cut holes under the steering bellcranks to allow rocks to fall out, so they can't get jammed.
A quick fix for you pebble problem will be to create a cardboard covering for the inside. I just cut up a cereal box and than taped together a box around and on top of the chassis. I also updated the motor and esc to a Hobbywing Max 10 5400kv, which pushed this puppy to 70 mph, over 80+ using a 27t.
That's a great idea
I just bought a rs4 sport 3 flux and idk but the reverse is kind of not working i have to slightly tap the throttle and then turn like brake/reverse and then it‘s going. Am I the only one with this problem or is it „normal“?
Snap steering / direction change under acceleration could be the open diffs. You're hitting bumps under acceleration, spinning up the unloaded wheel and comes back down at different rotation than other wheel causing direction change. my2cents
How is it compared to the HPI Racing RS4 Sport 3 Drift? Is it also drift ready?
I was debating on this one or a 4-Tec vxl. I think I will wait for the MST RMX 2.0 to get in stock.
I would wait for the MST RMX. I can run that where the HPI wouldn’t run. Unfortunately the HPI Ken Block is the same deal with the steering. I really want one, but won’t buy it.
My WR8 steering has never jammed like my RS4 Sport 3 does, even when running in gravel. I did upgrade the steering with a Hot Racing aluminum kit, bearings and a high torque Futaba, but that's the only thing I've ever upgraded on it. While I wouldn't recommend the Sport 3 to my worst enemies, I highly recommend the WR8 to everyone!
It's taken a lot of work to get mine where I want it, because we race in outdoor parking lots. That said, it's pretty clear HPI's "intention" with this car is an indoor track car. We race in concrete (not asphalt) parking lots, and after making a custom shield from Kydex and doing a lot of suspension/chassis tuning, I've got it dialed. There are "better" platforms for driving outside, but if you're and HPI fan, this thing can be awesome, it just takes some effort.
Totally get that. Just shock that it took so little to jam the steering. I just loved the body and was told it was an on road car I could run in parking lots when I bought it. It was my first on-road and just not a good purchase for me.
@@CCxRC it's a design flaw for sure
I have had some issues at the top end of speed where it would suddenly pull one way or the other. But I think I was hitting imperfections in the road.
picked up the E30 brushed version last night, first run the steering rack got hung up due to a pebble within the first 5 minutes. Only 2 packs through her, so far so good....hopefully.
Nice! I lifted mine by adjusting the suspension and it handles way better on surfaces that aren't perfectly smooth. I've also had less issues with the pebbles.
+CCxRC Thanks man, and im pretty sure the pack is what makes the car pull under heavy load, im running the exact same pack as you and it also pulls to the left after about 60% throttle.
MANY Thanks for the info!
I'll cancel my Ken Block edition, was coming in mid june!
Great work !! Beautiful Porsche and nice run !!
I run the same size battery but it onyx and have not had any torque steer problem now it does not always hold true to my setting but I've never had any sudden movements to the left or right and as far as the rocks go this is such a low car you have to keep it on very smooth surfaces because robs get into little tiny places besides that on that size battery this is one of the funnest cars I owned and in no way is a fail, cool video keep making him as I enjoyed it
I would say the HPI 1/10 cars are entry level track cars. The new generation even more track orientated therefore a clean track surface is needed. My belt drive HPIfux 2 is still moving and ive only needed to replace 2 rear belts and tyres.
+Sim o Nice man! I adjusted the shocks to make it ride higher and it's doing much better.
There you go. I entered the 1/10 scale brush-less hobby as a novice and I still am. Its a way for me to enjoy motorsport at speeds not attainable in real life or on disposable fun tickets. Having said that I have also replaced the esc and an engine mount. Enjoyed your post I hope to see more.
You raise the trucks/shocks then you have some leeway, and the tires too, depending on the brushless motor and 3S battery, pinion/spur gear, I got my HPI sport 2 going 50+ MPH, not so entry level, lol, but that isn't stock of course.
Both my friend and I have the same car. Unless you have a super clear area, the rocks are a pain and bumps can be scary. He wrecked his 1st day and now has to upgrade the dog bones. Sometimes you have to clear the rocks out like every 30 seconds even in open parking lots. The car is fast tho and can go faster with the optional gearing. It looks amazing tho. I found a place to drive it open throttle without any headache finally. I just subbed so Ill follow along.
hi, so i am brand new to rc and just bought an rs4 sport 3 (brz) and i'm having some trouble getting it to actually move. the led on the box thing in front of the motor is blinking and the receiver led is not on at all. any ideas on how to fix it? i really want to test drifting this thing. thanks
Not sure. It sounds like you might need to follow the Binding instructions in the manual to re-bind the controller to the car.
Buy four cheap digital scales, put them on the flattest surface you can find (a glass table usually works), and put the car on it with the battery installed. Adjust the preload on all four shocks until the front-left readout matches the front-right readout, and the rear-left-readout matches the rear-right readout, or at least get them so the difference between left vs. right is the same on the front and rear. Then try adding ballast to the lighter side of the car.
That's a great tip since I was using a huge battery
CCxRC Let us know how it works for you. :)
at least the car looks awesome !! I'm sure you will get the issues figured out and having it running perfect in no time !!
In going to to try
@@CCxRC 5 years, you still got it?
@@grubhubgrandpa9323 no. Never got it to run without locking up steering. Gave up on it
4 years later, and they still haven't solved the rocks around the bell crank issue... I've got an RS4 Hoonicorn, and it does the exact same thing...
Weight will affect it chap. These kinds of builds are more for flat smooth surfaces.
Was looking to pick one of these up to convert to a Rally Car. Sounds like near the end you fixed (what sounded like) gear mesh issue. How do you like the car now that you've had it for some time?
My experience want enjoyable. I couldn’t find any place smooth enough to run it. Steering locked up all the time from the smallest rocks. The body sent them straight into the chassis. I sold it. I think it’s the only RC I’ve ever sold. Got a Traxxas 4tec and haven’t had any of the issues I had with this.
This car can't handle the tiny pebbles in my street. It's probably the last car I would ever pick to make a rally car (or any car) out of. My Tamiyas love gravel and dirt. Nothing stops them. My HPI's hate the tiniest of pebbles, especially this one. Honestly, it's the worst touring car chassis I've ever owned in 25 years of bashing touring cars in the road.
StormdriverOne yeah. It’s crazy. Put me off for street cars until I got the Tamiya Buggyra. Then I got the Traxxas 4tec. Both perfectly hand in the same spots that this couldn’t do anything. Shocked how well RC Driver’s appeared to do with his off-road Camaro.
@@CCxRC Yep. I'm a long time HPI fan. I've run them for over 20 years. I've had every RS4 that ever landed on these shores. I hate having to tell people the truth about these new RS4s but you simply will not find it in the articles and reviews of it. The steering issue barely gets a mention and nobody talks about how rubbery the stock plastics are and the effect that has on... well... everything!
It's always... "Sweep the track!" or "Your street sucks!" Well... no. It's the car. My other cars don't do this. End of story.
Wow tony u look young brotha! Found this oldie but goodie on the up next videos
Yeah. I was quite a bit thinner 2 years ago
What's the top-end speed with stock gearing and electronics?
yep that's an on road RC for you :)
feel like it would be more fun to drive if it were a little heavier, the shocks and tires would engage better. and the cornering more realistic. nice clip though man, thanks for sharing. What's your opinion of the body? I kinda feel like i'd prefer a plain colour body...
Stock servos in most cases are not strong enough to keep your car going straight. Try a 200+ oz servo.
Rpm makes shock spacers to limit your down travel. I use them in all my cars. Scratched up chassis plates is a pet peeve of mine. Cant stand it.
3D print some wheel wells. Between the weight of the battery and loose linkages because of those cheap ball cup style tie rods is more then likely the problem. I have video to show how you can eliminate loose tolerance on linkages and steering.
Thats is a nice car!
Thanks for sharing!
that is a sweet looking car. it does look like the ground clearance really limits where you're able to run it. is it possible that outerwears or dusty motors might make a shroud for it? if not it may be an opportunity to create an aftermarket product. good luck with it man, i hope you get it dialed in the way you want it.
Thanks for the tip man. I'll take a look and possibly make myself something out of lexan
Also to mention a lot of the nitro RS four parts fit which are a little better built
+HD FPV 2015 that's good to know! Thanks for the tip. I've got it running a lot better now. I adjusted the shocks to get more ground clearance and ran it on a smaller battery.
What is the stock speed of that car? I mean how fast it will go on stock gear seat with LiPo 5000mAh 50c 7,4V? 50c will be not to agressive for engine?
Not sure. Couldn’t ever get it up to full speed because it torque steers real bad and the surface had to be perfect to run it. The steering gets jammed by the smallest of rocks that collect in the chassis...even when you think you’ve cleared the road...it finds something to jam it. Not a fan of the steering setup for this car.
@@CCxRC I understand, I want to buy it anyway, because I think its the best looking Porsche in 1:10 scale. I will resign only from high speed gear set, because as I saw its a lot of problems with traction anyway, so I'll run it only on RC track with clear surface. Thx
EM Racing Lexus Team that’ll be perfect for it. Definitely a great looking car. We just don’t have a track here to run jt on.
@@CCxRC We have a new RC track with amazing high grip surface in my hometown and its availalble for all citizens, so thats good ;). Yes, Porsche looks great, only problem is that car is not availalble in Poland for this moment and I need to wait for new delivery to our Country :/.
It is sooooo low to the ground, looks good on the workbench but doesn't work all that good in real life applications.
Kind of a bummer cause it looks so darn cool.
Wish you can resolve that pebbles in the bell crank issue Tony.
+RC Marty Thanks bud. It didn't have any steering issues with the pebbles today on the fresh asphalt road, but the torque steering is still a huge problem for me to figure out. Might just be a learning curve.
What the difference between Flux and no flux rs4 sport 3. TY.
Flux is with a brushless motor. No flux is with a brushed motor. I’d get the rs sport 3 with a brushless motor (flux).
again, sorry to hear about the problem with the bell crank. when doing speed runs, turn the steering rate way down. almost all the way down. you should have to do at least a 3 point turn on that road. it will make it easier to control in high speeds.
+2cwik4u104 I had turned it down all the way, but because of the hard pull when it got faster, I turned it back up to be able to correct out of it. I should've left it all the way down to be able to correct it slowly and build speed. Still learning. No locked up steering issues while running it today. I think I'm going to try it with my Spektrum DX4R Pro to see if I can fine tune it better.
cool good to hear. tune and test, tune and test. lol.
Ya I got rid of my wr8 for the same reason....the damn bellcrank was always getting jammed up
that's crazy! I've never seen that
same thing with my WR8 and I also have the steering problem I am going to do a full alignment to try to fix the battery/ steering problem
i have the exact same issues i have no idea what could be making the steering the way it is either. it is very frustrating. the rocks are horrible as well wish there was something we could do. other than those 2 things they are awesome. i go through too many tires with my setup lol nice vid thanks. and yea bodies are going fast too my gtr is already broke
Put spacers on your shocks, raise the car, adjust steering, problem solved.
Hey Tony, I just got one as well, we'll learn together brother how to drive it... Or we could put rally tires on and go jump at Ipswich?
Haha! Cool man. Let's find a good place to run these things. I need a lot of space until I learn how to handle it.
Nice car you'll get it need a good smooth road the vaterra is the same super low but fun
+432 RC otero our road outside the neighborhood is fresh smooth asphalt and it drove better but still had torque steer problems.
at 4:00 sounds like torque steer to me. in real cars that have power to the front wheels ie awd or fwd when you floor it poorly tuned ones or if you have lots of power will cause them to pull to one side. you can remedy by using a stiffer front suspension setup
+Theo DuQuesnay good to know. I'll let the guy I sold it to know
CCxRC also running more toe in in the rear and front will help with staying stable in straight lines
nice rs4 man i like that
+Kevys Rc & Music me too! Just need to get the hang of it.
Throw a higher torque steering servo to control the turning of the wheels on throttle. dollar hobbies has a 266.6 Oz servo for 30 bucks. should work very well with the problem.
That's a good idea. I was wondering if there was enough torque to hold at that much power
Yeah the stock servo is no good in that car.
That is a really nice car :D
what speed would i get out of a 2s lipo on it?
What car is best sport 3 or apex scion cant decide??
i find it crazy they brought back HPI's flagship belt-drive TC, the rs4 (the great grandpa of the Sprint 2) , as a shaft drive touring car. From what ive seen the RS4 3 is a but of a flop, ill stick to my RS4 1 thank you. But the pull is likely caused by the stupid soft servo saver, every RS-4 to date is known for junk servo savers. It could be the car is overpowered and spinning up one set of tires (left or right) because the diff fluid is to thin
That's good info. I haven't looked to much into it because I don't have many opportunities to drive it.
CCxRC thanks, id look into eliminating or stiffening the servo saver first
It's not really an issue, just a physics thing. Torque steer my friend. Super common on shaft driven 4wd vehicles. Most on road cars do need a good smooth surface. There's nothing better than a freshly paved parking lot lol.
+Theibault I guess I need a better servo that can withstand the torque! I had troubles on our freshly paved road outside our neighborhood too, but it did stay on the ground and had no issues with rocks...just the torque steer - even if I slowly built speed
CCxRC A better servo only helps a little bit. It's tough to fight inertia.
very nice video bro
+RC and Media World thanks. I did get it running better by adjusting the shocks to make it ride higher. Just need to get a video of it now.
The reason your car is bouncing and flipping is that you need a proper rc race track thats got smooth surface, i usually go to a track every weekend I have got a HPI Racing Ford Mustang RTR Spec.5
Yeah. I've had it out on smoother tracks and it is quick! I also lifted the suspension...and it's way better.
i have the car. Its a nice car, but it cant drive straight. Tried everything, except for upgrading the servo.
Is there a Outerwears that would fit this car? Or make something out of lexan to cover the bell krank. Balens the car so it's not heavier on one side would help it a lot I think.
What motors are you planing on putting in the SCTE? I am thinking of geting one of these for my SCTE. And put body panels on it to make it look like a buggy.
www.vgracing.com/product/Ten-SCTE_Roll_Cage.html
The motors are for the SCX10. I might have misspoke. Still not sure on the motors. I'll probably just match the 27T axial I have right now. Have to figure out the ESC setup I want to run. In my SCTE I'm running a Tekin Pro 4
I'll have to check outerwears.
+My RC Tribe Thanks! I'll watch it before I buy.
Link to buy plz
Clearence issue? Stick a set of 2.2s on it :)
I always wondered if it was difficult for those guys driving at 80, 80 and even over 100 mph to drive in a straight line - and today you proved it to me!!
Haha! 2.2s is the way to go.
+Joe Conti This thing is the hardest to control RC i've driven.
CCxRC Ah so - I would imagine the new found speed is a huge contributor to your new toy :) Could also be the fact we are used to soft gripping tyres while this slips and slides at the high speed? Servo reaction time? 2WD and RWD only - NOT helping you :) :) I think one would have to think out of the normal 4x4 box when driving one of these :) Hey can you imagine trying to drift with that ? lololol
Dude, stiffen your springs a little, and move your shocks to the innermost on the front bottom, second from the outside front top. Innermost bottom rear, and second one OUT top rear. You should have way more clearance for the chassis. And have your body mounts either all the way up, or second one down for body clearance. The way it drags to the left in the video, it seems that you popped your front right axle, (the supplied front axles are at least 2mm`s too short) but otherwise, the pulling to one side or another on throttle can be reduced a bit by using o-rings to shim your bellcrank linkage and steering linkages. Less play in the linkages is more stability. It doesn`t hurt to shim the schocks with o-rings either. if you wanna do the whole steering assembly, as well as front and rear shocks you will need 22 o-rings :)
The ones used in shocks are nice and stiff.
Also the steering servo is a little weak, and a better servo will also give better stability under load.
Mine eats spurs and mauled my diff shafts and BENT my front axles, but I resolved the spur gear eating by shimming the supports for the centre axle and spur gear assembly on the inside of the bottom plate.
I run mine as a rwd atm, but I`m getting titanium front cvd`s and some hop up parts, and then I`ll worry about the 22 o-rings lol..
:)
+jan christian Frodahl wow! Thanks for all the tips. I will have to try these. I did put a lighter battery in and that helped a lot. I was running a huge 3s 5000mah battery because it was the only one I had with the right connector at the time.
Hope it helps ;)
awesome video! thumbs up
looks like you need some smoother ground than that for this car. :D
I find with mine that it pulls to the left cos of the road and how it goes on a slight angle
If that makes any sense
is this with the stock battery
+ai van It doesn't come with a battery....unfortunately
Steering absolutly sucks !!!!!! Wen i gunned it after a slow start it went left or right by itself from hitting a small rock or anything small enough lolol!! and busted my body to pieces against the curb ....it is fast !!!!!!! Really impressive speed for 2s 👍. iam gonna try adjustable turnbuckles and see if that helps tha handling.tha body is really fragile after the rear drags tha ground it must have cought on a uneven surface and just ripped the whole Rear lower back off also tha front of body broke at tha windshield from rubbing tha ground even though i raised the body for clearance.My 3rd time out with this model and i completely destroyed body by just doing speed runs. !!!!☺ i still think its a fun car and i will keep it and upgrade turnbuckles.👍
Dude I got drift tires for mine and with the power it would drift vertically. You should get some.
+Toxic_Wolf 10 awesome! I do have drift tires for it still in the package. Gotta fix it and give them a try
Plastic, plastic AND PLASTIC!! I do not understand why these companies are not using steel,iron or carbon fibre.
so nice car!
+RC VHX 22 Thanks bud. Looks super cool...but hard to drive
What is its top speed
+TheRedStoneGamer771 I didn't have a speedometer at the time so I don't know. Guessing 55mph stock out of box on 3S. Up to 70mph with a gearing change...
for the steering jamming i don t know what to say because i don t have hpi too expensive. for bashing and the car straight it ll impossible the simple reason too much power and ur battery 3s it too heavy so doesn't help if you want more speed change your motor kv for a higher kv for use 2s battery and to keep it straight while bashing install a gyro and AVCS better control better handling on curve ⤵ look this review and u ll see. ua-cam.com/video/OEUnn822eXE/v-deo.html
reading the manual before first round is always a good idea the lovely thing about the RS4 has several different mounting positions of the shocks and even enlarging the shocks first thing I did with my RS4 was move the top mounts in and the bond amounts owed to the shock which gave me a quarter inch ground clearance and then Harding hardening suspension stiffening the springs went for a nice body roll and stiffness combination Wicked dogs nice drifting and still awesome cornering
+Evan Elton thanks Evan. I was rushing because I was getting ready to head out of the country for work 2 days later. I've been bouncing in and out recently and haven't had time to go in and make the adjustments you mentioned. Can't wait to try. Thanks for the tips.
LOL yes I am terrible for that as well busy life we tend to rip open the box and hit the road. I do apologize to you because I got my dates mixed up between videos and realize that yours was a while back now
Evan Elton lol. Even when I do have time...I tend to come to youtube and forums for advice vs. the manuals, but I'm not sure why. :) I am excited to get back to this car and work on it to get it driving better for my needs. I'll probably also try a smaller 3s battery because the 5000Mah is pretty heavy.
2 options =
nr1 = bad joke
nr2 = are you not seeing that the street is broken XD?
nice brother like hpi porche,
Quit beating that thing up. It's like watching The Passion of the Christ rc Edition.
lol xD
awesome!!
cool >Car!
+Tobi Lang The cool is great than the car :) It'll be fine...I just need to learn how to drive it.
+CCxRC did you try raising the ride height
sweet! subbed ya!
Thanks man! Finally got the car running way better and it's a fun little rocket.
no experience with the car.the battery and weight dosr sound like it may be your issue there .good luck
+Bassknots I adjusted the shocks to raise the body and used a smaller battery and it drives much better. Still a little torque steering, but much more manageable.
Nkce look but too low and too bumpy surface, it hurts to watch it.
Hey I'm sorry to hear about it. You might wanna make a shroud from a milk carton or soothing for the bell ranks I have hpi sprint sport 2 flux. Please check out my UA-cam I'm trying a second go at it again. Keep up the great work. Keep the vids coming
Cool. I'll check out your channel
Rwd or 4x4?
awd
I'll buy it from you
bro, I just posted the same issue on my channel....car pulls away fine then a little throttle later it pulls to the right and wants to donut all day....my buddy gave it to me to fix but nothings wrong...good post !!! check me out on always upgrading rc...
Super late but that's defenitley a 2s kind of car. Too light for 3s
Good call. I got rid of it. On road wasn't for me
Lol that first road is definitely not suitable for a car like that. What you want for those kinds of rc cars are surfaces like a basketball court. Think those kinds of surfaces. I used to bring my road cars to an empty school yard when there was no school in session. I could get elevated by standing on top of playground equipment for better perspective.
+Lance NoPants I sold it. That type of perfect environment was too restricting for me. I'd never get out to use it.
CCxRC Totally understandable. They aren't for everyone. ☺ When you find that perfect environment, it's pretty amazing the way they handle though. Thanks for the video!
Of course you can’t run this type of car on a surface like that ….
your road by your house is so smooth... Mine is BuMpY!! LOL! See what I did there?
+Captain Thiele The road I didn't show is even smoother. It's fresh asphalt...but I didn't get any footage from that.
CCxRC I still envy you and your smooth road...
I Don't Think it was Driven in the right road...Atleast pick A smooth one,,since the car is design for speed...
+Richard Louis Linck I did that as well and still had issues with it steering left. I changed the shock positions to give it more ground clearance and it is doing better overall - even getting less small stones freezing up the steering.
CCxrc Can you pls help me out? having problem of my reverse sometimes it works most of the time it doesn't. Same Car.
+CCxRC i don't know if its esc problem, it has brakes but reverse fails.
Your first problem is that you are running it on 3s
prime example of an inexperieced driver ,its way too much power for his skill level
Can I busy it for 500$
Wtf is that dude, find a smoother area for Christ sakes
You do not drive this type of rc on not smooth surface.
Smooth black top lol nice video tho check out my rs4 mobay876
Poor rc car