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Why not just use an air brush ? They come in a variety of sizes able to handle a variety of liquids. Much easier to refill and you have only to change the liquid in the airbrush instead of having many different cans with varying liquids in them.
FWIW my research says these cans are generally charged to between 50 and 100 PSI off the shelf and I found a quote on a forum that said "Looking up on the net, it appears that US aerosol cans come in classifications, DOT-2Q, and DOT-2P. DOT-2Q are required to withstand a minimum of 180psi without buckle, and 270psi without burst (at 130F = 54C temperature). Dot-2P have a lower burst pressure of 240psi (the difference is in the metal thickness used to make the can). Apparently American WD40 cans are marked DOT-2Q, but I have not found any marking on WD40 made in Au cans. The Europeans use different standards, not DOT." I also found another page titled "Europe versus US on aerosol can regulation" which lists pressure ratings for most cans at around 10 BAR minimum and burst pressures 20 or 50% higher than that. So really almost any aerosol can should be able to be charged up to 100 psi with no issue, but I do agree it's best to be cautious. Personally I have pushed cans to 125 psi or close with no issue, but I'm not recommending that, it's not necessary.
Assuming your reference material is correct, no offence intended, your esearch is well done and your willingness to share the information is much appreciated. Thank you. Cheers from OZ
There are commercial versions of this, which are made from thicker metal and meant to be reused for decades. They are also much easier to re-fill as they have a dedicated fill opening that's much larger than the schrader valve opening. What you've done does work fine, but I'd not reuse a spray can that's ever been dropped.
@@VintageEngineRepairs In the US you can buy a pretty nice one for $100. No comparison to the reused can quality wise and they specifically are rated for harsh chemicals. There are knock off brands for about $50. You used to be able to buy exactly a paint spray can that was fillable. Not sure if that is a thing anymore.
I did this over 25 years ago at work,for spraying an electronic switch contact cleaner. it worked great. Filling through the small valve body was the hard part. As this author said, go easy on the PSI.
I have refilled those cans several times (another method using the existing valve without drilling another hole) . But I DON'T recommend using AIR to pressurize them. The air (oxygen) makes nice flammable (explosive!) mixture with the liquid inside. With water-based chemicals it promotes corrosion (rusting) inside. I use CO2 instead. It also looks like the CO2 dissolves in the liquids so there is more propellant available and the spray pattern (atomization) is much nicer compared to the air at the same pressure. You could also use propane, butane, isobutane - for example from those "compressed air cans" - they are most ofter just propane+butane mix. Just watch the pressure so you don't overfill those thin-walled cans. I fill those to around 5bars at room temp
These cans normally use a propellant, though, which maintains the pressure by the propellant continuously boiling and making more vapor. With compressed air, the pressure will drop really quickly when you press the nozzle valve to spray the contents. You'll have to keep adding compressed air and it will be annoying. If you try to make up for this by using a higher air pressure, you risk an explosion from overpressurizing the can. Also, these cans are not designed to be refilled so the fatigue caused by cycles of pressurizing and de-pressurizing is not taken into account in the design.
Honestly, the whole thing about fatigue from cycles of pressurizing and depressurizing is highly dependent on how fast those cycles take place. These cans have propellent in them, so as the ambient temperature changes, these cans have to be able to withstand some pretty significant changes in pressure. Now obviously these changes in pressure will be very gradual, but nevertheless they do have to endure some significant changes in pressure. So as long as you keep the changes within reasonable limits, the cans should be good for a good while. But it would be a good idea to get a new can every so often and not risk it.
@@VintageEngineRepairsBest to not waste your time with this nonsense, actually. Is a new can of WD40 really so expensive? Everyone needs content, I guess
@@HeyChickens Some cans list the psi on the label. Many are as high as 90psi, a good solder joint will withstand much more so there is a pretty good safety factor with lower pressure. I've refilled the air cans used for blowing the dust out of electronics by using the whole valve stem. It only works on those cans that have the tube protruding once the push cap is removed. The valve stem pushes down on the exposed tip, the rubber seals against the can, works well for quite a few refills.
I actually did this about a year ago myself! I used a wd-40 can, and I just put whatever random general purpose oil I have on hand for oiling stuff. But I used a slightly different brass fitting, one that is made for refrigeration. And I soldered it on with a small pen torch and used 60/40 tin/lead solder, so I didn't have any issues overheating the valve. I will of course have to keep in mind that since I have lead solder on the valve, I should not drink the oil, lol.
I have done several cans, and I have some tips for the newcomers. Best way to remove rubber from the valve core assembly is using heat to burn it then followed with wire brush. Refilling is difficult so I install two valves at top and remove the inner core, replace them followed by pressure. Thank you for all you have taught us students. Bruce the swimmer from New Rochelle N.Y.
I bought one from Harbor Freight when I was in the USA and also from Canadian Tire in Canada I purchased a Vaper Spot Spray. Both of these have a large opening that unscrews where a funnel can be used to add your liquid.
Just a thought, if you inset a 3/8th inch pipe bushing into your can and the bushing had a 1/4 inch pipe hole in it, you could just thread a Schrader valve into it. When you want to fill it, just unscrew the Schrader valve.
I'll go so far as to say that's a good idea.. I'll also say I'd only reuse a can that was already used for brake or engine cleaner so I don't have to wash the can, and rather than solder, I'll use a nip of hot dog epoxy. time spent 2 minutes. ...hey I'm already done.
Wow. So you're talking about a bushing w the securing nut inside the can? That seems like a whole lot more work. Also, imo, sorta defeating the purpose of the cheap, universal schrader valve. Also, depending on what you're refilling, it might be more cost effective to just replace it. What I'm curious about is how sturdy the car tire valves would be. No caustic liquids on the rubber seat, of course, but they're designed for 30+ psi. (Meaning the can is the weak link. Not pressurizing the can)
I once made a setup that was similar. Right as I was finishing it, I realized that I wasted my time. Because I could have just bought one that's bigger and nicer. But, I still learned something. Always take pride in your work.
@@percyfaith11 aaah not everything needs to be a gun in this world. Typically soldering is done with a soldering iron which is a straight elongated Eletrical or gas powered instrument which does not resemble a gun. You okay 👌🏻 💀
Easier and safer: use a spray like the one for kitchen degreasers. With a little handle/lever that you squeeze. But get one for lab chemicals. If you reuse an old kitchen grade one it will work only a few squeezes with WD40 for instance. Then the seals get destroyed. You’ll be amazed at the low cost of WD40 by the gallon, for example.
@@abundantharmony I use it in a pesticide sprayer for underbody oil coating each season. There's a few northeast trucks that have used it for years and the lack of rust is impressive. I've only done it a year so far.
Random hiking comment: you can also safely refill hiking gas canisters from cheap butane cans! I finally bought one of those little brass connectors via ebay and tried it with a 100g hiking canister and a cheap butane canister from the hardware. ($10 vs $1.50 in Australia). It worked! And that stuff burns fine in the little screw-on burner. At 20 deg C it took the same time and weight of gas to boil a cup of water. In cold weather you need to warm it up more in a pocket (or armpit lol)
I used to do this, a few years back. Instead of modifying the can, I heated it in boiling water, while pressing the valve, to clear out all the gas. Cooling it, created a vacuum. Then I inverted it in the replacement fluid, and pressed the valve, until the can stopped sucking it up. Once done, a foot pump, for car tires, was used to force air into the can, by carefully timing the valve presses with the foot presses. It works, and saves currency lumps too :) .
actually everybody should be in love with that idea. its low waste, reusable, cheaper. you could use a proper welded container and change only the nozzle when you refil. if you drill in this paper thin aluminium it could be a problem
These cans are pressurized with a propellent rather than air. Propane is commonly used. It would be possible to use a can of propane from a torch etc. to add the propellent rather than using air. Also, some automotive paint shops can make up a can of paint so they could supply a new empty can and place the valve in it before they attach the lid to it. Many possible ideas. But personally, I would just buy one of those purposely built aerosol cans that are meant for doing this.
Great Video - you showed al the steps and things to look out for and it was fast - it is great for being able to put other fluids in that normally are not put in sprays - like light oils or brake fluid etc
@@VintageEngineRepairs Fastest reply ever - YT seems to have a lag on my posts - I never thought to solder the schrader valve - good tips with the ice as well -
Did that very thing to a empty can of brake clean a while back. Worked great for a while then I realized the heat source caused the seal on the can to leak. Guess I over did it a little with the heat. 👍🍻
Ah yes quite possibly! Or the chemical you added damaged the plastic straw inside the can and it no longer worked. Use a can that previously had a strong chemical in and also, fill it with water when soldering to reduce the heat transfer to plastic components :)
@@VintageEngineRepairs I just simply didn't take the proper precautions to prevent over heating. Never added any chemicals as it was intended to be used solely for air to clean keyboards and such. The stem was soldered in the center of the bottom and resulted in a leak around nearly the entire bottom seal of the can. Oh well, my bad. 🤣
Get a rubber tip blow gun , and hold the can valve open and squeeze the blow gun trigger against the spray tip hole. I repressurize cans like this all the time that have lost their propellant.
@@MrTheHillfolkive done that. Sonetimes it works sometimes not. Problem here is you could use a dozen cans for all the chemical you have sitting on the shelf, and you need a supply of shrader valves too.
I did this few years back. Works excellent and save a ton from those rip off price spray can. A bit tricky to solder in. A propane torch and plumbing solder will work. Don't put too much heat or you will melt the spraying part.
Any aerosol can can be refilled without even soldering the valve. It is enough to make an adapter out of plastic, which can be used to pair a syringe and an aerosol can. With the help of a syringe, any liquid can be poured into the container. And then add the propellant using a suitable adapter and temperature difference. LPG can be used as the propellant. In this case, a constant pressure is maintained in the tank until the propellant is used up. The process is similar to refilling small gas cans.
I quite often use gas in small cartridges designed for use with a compact burner. This process, of course, I can film. As for refilling aerosol cans, I haven't done that lately, but maybe if you're interested, I'll repeat this procedure for shooting. I'll tell you how it all started. It was a long time ago. Then in our country it was not easy to buy a pepper spray for self-defense. I was still a schoolboy and this topic interested me a lot, as the times were turbulent. Among other things, I knew chemistry very well, and now I work as a chemist by profession. I decided to make my own pepper spray. But not just peppery, but much more powerful, containing a more serious tear substance. I have explored several options. One of them was a-bromobenzyl cyanide, the other was 1,3-dichloroacetone oxime. The last substance is called nettle gas. These are very serious irritants. I synthesized both. I used sulfur dioxide as a propellant. It is an easily liquefied gas, it becomes liquid upon slight cooling. Used cans of deodorant. Fortunately, I did not have to use these devices for their intended purpose. It should be noted that the container containing a-bromobenzyl cyanide began to leak right at my house. Since this substance is unstable and releases hydrogen bromide, which is highly corrosive. It was a real disaster. I had to use a gas mask. But everything went well. I made the adapter from the polyethylene part of the coaxial cable, drilling holes on each side so that the rod of the aerosol bottle and the nozzle of the syringe would fit in there perfectly. All this was over 30 years ago. Time passes quickly, but something is not forgotten.
If it has just lost the propellant and you need to pressurize it ,just use a rubber tip blow gun against the spray head and open them both at the same time. Wear some glasses because if you're not good there will be a little spray flying around
It is a much better idea to use a pump sprayer, you can refill them easily and they are much easier to strip and clean. You can but them in different sizes I use 500ml and 1l and you can select how much pressure you want. Those cans are designed for single use the nozzles tend to get clogged up. The difficult part is acquiring the stuff in bulk containers. Also this is quite dangerous if you do this to cans of flammable material you have compromised the pressure vessel they are likely to leak or blow at the worst moment. (Sods law) They won't leak 'air' they will leak flammable gas or liquid even from the top. For about £3 you can buy a 500ml hand sprayer designed for corrosive liquids that will be safer, last longer and hold more product.
Ive done this many times. I don't drill because of the risk of metal particles getting in. Just use tapered punch to enlarge the hole as necessary. Also, a big soldering iron is a much safer way to solder the valve. I usually just repressurized the can through the nozzle with freon based freeze spray rather than add a valve.
@VintageEngineRepaires Actually this idea got me thinking. Why not use treated rivets? The can will retain its structural integrity and threads on the valve. Benefits of this way is to avoid heat and the valve can be replaced if necessary.
@@VintageEngineRepairs If I don't forget it I will. But first I need an empty spraycan and look for the right size rivets. It should work and maybe even hold higher pressure than hard soldering that valve.😌
Those cans are designed with a safety margin for a single fill. Multiple reuse's will tend to stress the metal causing it to fail eventually. Even relatively low pressure's can have catastrophic consequenses. Any number of substances that most people believe to be quite benign and safe become explosive when areosoled. Such as limestone dust, flour dust, aluminium powder, iron powder and so on. A recent example is the explosion in a grain facility in Turkey. Which was, in all probability caused by grain dust. If you were to even partly fill that can with Methelated spirits and it exploded you would, in effect, have created a fuel/air bomb. A fuel air bomb is the largest non nuclear weapon in current arsenals. Filling a can with propane or some such is like playing russian roulette with all chambers loaded. If you want to do something like this go out and buy a pump up plastic bottle for a couple of dollars and use that instead. The upside of that is they are usually extremely easy to fill and normally have a safety valve to stop over pressure.
Thanks for sharing! They are rated to over 300 psi new, adding in 10-20 psi will not stress them enough for any failure that will cause any harm. However if you don’t feel safe, I did mention a refillable version.
The problem is that alot of people will not be content with 10 or 20 psi. Additionally, even factoring in the resistance in the air line, it would be exceedingly easy to put in 100 psi, particularly if the can is 3/4 full of liquid. There is not a lot of head room to act as a buffer.@@VintageEngineRepairs
@@Agnemons As mentioned, I can’t give a safe PSI, there isn’t one. However starting off with 2-3 psi (which will never cause any damage if it fails) and then going from there is a sensible solution. Using a hand pump like I showed towards the end of this clip is very controllable. One has to take a certain amount of responsibility, especially when warned of the dangers and given a very low recommended pressure. Thanks again :)
@@Agnemons. If you are not competent in your ability to mitigate risk, which VER covered in his description more than once, then this economical hack is not for you. Common sence prevails and natural selection takes care of the rest.
I punched a hole in one with a tapered punch creating a threadable collar in the can top. I then threaded the "collar" and screwed in a valve. Worked great.
That is just too much work with a high risk factor. Best just get a high quality squirt bottle, safe, easy, more control, less waste, adjustable nozzle gives atomize or stream.
I was confused why this video got recommended to me and initially I didn't want to watch it. It got recommended a second time and I clicked it. A dude appears and... hold up! I have seen the bloke before, but on another channel. Greetings from Germany. 😄
An idea I just had, you could go a step further and install a pressure regulator and a separate pressure source, such as a bike tyre refill. No risk of boomboom and don't need to recharge so often
Good idea. I used to have an old stainless steel refillable fire extinguisher with valve and stem built in.- made a great water gun! I might make one of these, I assume the cans are galvanized steel which allows the solder to wet the metal?
What a nice, humble and smiley teacher! Loved the idea. Q.1. Can I use soldering iron ko insulate instead of propane heating? Q.2. Can we fill the can with kerosene?
They sell refillible spray cans... been using them for over 10 years now... Can buy at any Major online retailer.. It will tell you exactly how much pressure it can safely hold too! Worth the few extra bucks.
Smart, I'll definitely do this on the wd40 smart straw can. Here in the Netherlands those are not cheap at all... And I think it's absolutely fun to solder a valve on a can 😂
You can buy refillable rechargeable cans since atleast the 1980s, mine hold almost a quart. I have one for wd one for brake cleaner and one for carb n choke, no leaks in 30 years and way easier to fill.
With a good rubber air nozzle tip you can usually recharge a can some through the nozzle if you time it right and hold pressure to it, but I like this idea better.
about 22 ish years ago i bough a commercial version of this from harbor freight the whole spray nozzle assembly unscrewed so you could put your material in then had the air chuck in the bottom... material was much much thicker then that of whats used to make a regular spray paint can kind of sad they discontinued them about 18 years ago would really like to have another one
Hey Tony! I have explained this in the video. I can’t give a perfect PSI, start with a low pressure 5-10 psi and go from there until you get the atomisation you’re after. I have gone up to 100 psi, but I don’t recommend it and it’s not necessary!
@@chrisallen2005 Hey Big mouth, I did, but he didn't specify the "optimum" amount. Read comments very carefully before you shoot that big mouth off. Ok ?
Hey Tony, it’s all good mate, no I can’t give an optimum amount, best to start low and use as little pressure necessary to get the atomisation required. Better to refill with air a few times (just a few pumps of a hand pump) and keep it low :)
Very nice tutorial. However regarding brake cleaner, the Bardahl one that I usually buy actually contains some sort of Coleman fuel (Sold at the hardware store under the name Petrol C here in France) and acetone, not just methylated spirits.
I have the refillable can I bought from Amazon. Works great I’ve had it for over a year now. Only $25 at the time but I think they’ve gone up in price since But I think I’m gonna make another one since I literally just got 4 schrader valves two days ago lol
I didn't solider mine, i punched a hole to the inside and tapped it for threads then i twisted the threads onto the shrader and put an o ring on it and screwed it in. I just use low presure - you can fill it back up a bike tire pump! I have a very small tire pump that is supposed to be just for emergencies and it is terrible for the bike tires becuase it takes a half hour to pump up a tire but it works awesome for my WD40 can and my home starter fluid can!
Wow, that's awesome. Have you ever refill 2k primer, 2k paint and 2k clear coats in the raffle cans? Did you make great finish to respray on the car panel??
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Why not just use an air brush ? They come in a variety of sizes able to handle a variety of liquids. Much easier to refill and you have only to change the liquid in the airbrush instead of having many different cans with varying liquids in them.
I would love to figure out how to do this with paint.
@@jc7997aj Sure! But just not convenient.
You have a new subscriber 👌
Why not just refill it through the nozzle instead of making that stupid contraption? I've done it before and it works just fine.
FWIW my research says these cans are generally charged to between 50 and 100 PSI off the shelf and I found a quote on a forum that said "Looking up on the net, it appears that US aerosol cans come in classifications, DOT-2Q, and DOT-2P. DOT-2Q are required to withstand a minimum of 180psi without buckle, and 270psi without burst (at 130F = 54C temperature). Dot-2P have a lower burst pressure of 240psi (the difference is in the metal thickness used to make the can). Apparently American WD40 cans are marked DOT-2Q, but I have not found any marking on WD40 made in Au cans. The Europeans use different standards, not DOT." I also found another page titled "Europe versus US on aerosol can regulation" which lists pressure ratings for most cans at around 10 BAR minimum and burst pressures 20 or 50% higher than that. So really almost any aerosol can should be able to be charged up to 100 psi with no issue, but I do agree it's best to be cautious. Personally I have pushed cans to 125 psi or close with no issue, but I'm not recommending that, it's not necessary.
Thanks for the info! Much appreciated :)
Assuming your reference material is correct, no offence intended, your esearch is well done and your willingness to share the information is much appreciated. Thank you. Cheers from OZ
@@cyclemoto8744 I like research!
@rustirab3465 Better safe than sorry! I think 100psi should be no issue for good condition cans at least.
@@802Garage all part of critical thinking ;)
There are commercial versions of this, which are made from thicker metal and meant to be reused for decades. They are also much easier to re-fill as they have a dedicated fill opening that's much larger than the schrader valve opening. What you've done does work fine, but I'd not reuse a spray can that's ever been dropped.
Thanks for watching and sharing, yep as mentioned you can buy refillable ones, but they can’t hold strong chemicals and out here they’re $100!
@@VintageEngineRepairs In the US you can buy a pretty nice one for $100. No comparison to the reused can quality wise and they specifically are rated for harsh chemicals. There are knock off brands for about $50. You used to be able to buy exactly a paint spray can that was fillable. Not sure if that is a thing anymore.
If you use this method, please wear safety glasses.
@@danielboughton3624 thanks for sharing!
$15 and rated for any chemical and 90 PSI at home improvement stores in the US.
I did this over 25 years ago at work,for spraying an electronic switch contact cleaner. it worked great. Filling through the small valve body was the hard part. As this author said, go easy on the PSI.
Thanks for watching and sharing :)
Someone in the comments said he installed two Schraders, one to put product in, one to release air
What kind of liquid do you use for refill? Thanks.
@@simb24 it’s in the video
I have refilled those cans several times (another method using the existing valve without drilling another hole) . But I DON'T recommend using AIR to pressurize them. The air (oxygen) makes nice flammable (explosive!) mixture with the liquid inside. With water-based chemicals it promotes corrosion (rusting) inside. I use CO2 instead. It also looks like the CO2 dissolves in the liquids so there is more propellant available and the spray pattern (atomization) is much nicer compared to the air at the same pressure. You could also use propane, butane, isobutane - for example from those "compressed air cans" - they are most ofter just propane+butane mix. Just watch the pressure so you don't overfill those thin-walled cans. I fill those to around 5bars at room temp
Thanks for watching and sharing :)
I also fill mine from the existing valve, but thank you for the CO2 tip!
How do you get CO2 ?
@@fifilulu Welding supply shops, Paintball/Airsoft stores, Gas distributors like AirGAS
how do you refill those through the existing valve?
These cans normally use a propellant, though, which maintains the pressure by the propellant continuously boiling and making more vapor. With compressed air, the pressure will drop really quickly when you press the nozzle valve to spray the contents. You'll have to keep adding compressed air and it will be annoying. If you try to make up for this by using a higher air pressure, you risk an explosion from overpressurizing the can. Also, these cans are not designed to be refilled so the fatigue caused by cycles of pressurizing and de-pressurizing is not taken into account in the design.
Thanks for sharing, yep, best to add low pressure and just give it a couple pumps with a hand pump every so often :)
Honestly, the whole thing about fatigue from cycles of pressurizing and depressurizing is highly dependent on how fast those cycles take place. These cans have propellent in them, so as the ambient temperature changes, these cans have to be able to withstand some pretty significant changes in pressure. Now obviously these changes in pressure will be very gradual, but nevertheless they do have to endure some significant changes in pressure. So as long as you keep the changes within reasonable limits, the cans should be good for a good while. But it would be a good idea to get a new can every so often and not risk it.
@@VintageEngineRepairsBest to not waste your time with this nonsense, actually. Is a new can of WD40 really so expensive? Everyone needs content, I guess
just add a bit propane as a propellant
@@HeyChickens Some cans list the psi on the label. Many are as high as 90psi, a good solder joint will withstand much more so there is a pretty good safety factor with lower pressure. I've refilled the air cans used for blowing the dust out of electronics by using the whole valve stem. It only works on those cans that have the tube protruding once the push cap is removed. The valve stem pushes down on the exposed tip, the rubber seals against the can, works well for quite a few refills.
I actually did this about a year ago myself! I used a wd-40 can, and I just put whatever random general purpose oil I have on hand for oiling stuff. But I used a slightly different brass fitting, one that is made for refrigeration. And I soldered it on with a small pen torch and used 60/40 tin/lead solder, so I didn't have any issues overheating the valve. I will of course have to keep in mind that since I have lead solder on the valve, I should not drink the oil, lol.
Awesome! Thanks for sharing :)
I have done several cans, and I have some tips for the newcomers. Best way to remove rubber from the valve core assembly is using heat to burn it then followed with wire brush. Refilling is difficult so I install two valves at top and remove the inner core, replace them followed by pressure. Thank you for all you have taught us students. Bruce the swimmer from New Rochelle N.Y.
Some fantastic tips, thanks for sharing!!
Makes sense, one for pouring product in, one to release the air. Nice.
How much psi we have to fill
Done the same thing with a garden sprayer, except you only drill the hole & push in a valve for a tubeless tyre. Saves pumping.
Great stuff :) good idea!
Sweet idea, guy. You know what kind of pressure is appropriate in a pump sprayer? Would hate to burst it.
@@ProleDaddy hand pump sprayers can go to 40 psi, at least 4x what I recommended here. Best to keep pressures very low :)
@@ProleDaddy ,Hand pump sprayers should have a pressure relief valve, so 10psi or when the relief valve pops, whichever happens first.
Thanks, guys. Appreciate it.
GREAT video.
Straight to the point. Clear instructions. Good tips.
Thank you
You’re welcome, glad you enjoyed it!
I bought one from Harbor Freight when I was in the USA and also from Canadian Tire in Canada I purchased a Vaper Spot Spray. Both of these have a large opening that unscrews where a funnel can be used to add your liquid.
Fantastic! Great to hear :)
Just a thought, if you inset a 3/8th inch pipe bushing into your can and the bushing had a 1/4 inch pipe hole in it, you could just thread a Schrader valve into it. When you want to fill it, just unscrew the Schrader valve.
Thanks for watching and sharing 👍
I'll go so far as to say that's a good idea..
I'll also say I'd only reuse a can that was already used for brake or engine cleaner so I don't have to wash the can, and rather than solder, I'll use a nip of hot dog epoxy. time spent 2 minutes.
...hey I'm already done.
@@1puppetbike I think I mentioned JB weld in a different post.
@graemedalgleish8944 use the clay hotdogs and it will set up quick, look the part and make no mess.
Wow. So you're talking about a bushing w the securing nut inside the can? That seems like a whole lot more work. Also, imo, sorta defeating the purpose of the cheap, universal schrader valve. Also, depending on what you're refilling, it might be more cost effective to just replace it. What I'm curious about is how sturdy the car tire valves would be. No caustic liquids on the rubber seat, of course, but they're designed for 30+ psi. (Meaning the can is the weak link. Not pressurizing the can)
I have thought about doing this before but never figured out how to put the schrader valve in - thanks so much!
Glad you enjoyed it! :)
I once made a setup that was similar. Right as I was finishing it, I realized that I wasted my time. Because I could have just bought one that's bigger and nicer. But, I still learned something. Always take pride in your work.
Thanks for sharing :)
Use a solder gun with a large tip and put it in the valve body to heat it while minimizing heat transfer to the plastic parts in the can
Great idea! Let me know how you go :)
When you say gun ? Is this an American thing ?
@@HogwartsBasement it's shaped like a gun, you hogwart. What are guns shaped like in whatever hell hole you inhabit?
@@percyfaith11😂
@@percyfaith11 aaah not everything needs to be a gun in this world. Typically soldering is done with a soldering iron which is a straight elongated Eletrical or gas powered instrument which does not resemble a gun. You okay 👌🏻 💀
I'm not sure that I'll actually do this, but I'm sure glad I know how to after watching this.
Thanks.
You’re very welcome! Glad you enjoyed it :)
Easier and safer: use a spray like the one for kitchen degreasers. With a little handle/lever that you squeeze. But get one for lab chemicals. If you reuse an old kitchen grade one it will work only a few squeezes with WD40 for instance. Then the seals get destroyed.
You’ll be amazed at the low cost of WD40 by the gallon, for example.
Thanks for watching and sharing 👍
What do you use WD40 for? Real question.
@@abundantharmony I use it in a pesticide sprayer for underbody oil coating each season. There's a few northeast trucks that have used it for years and the lack of rust is impressive. I've only done it a year so far.
@@skoparweaver7692 Yea, I think as a rust preventative or solvent is the best use for ol' WD40. Glad you didn't say for lube.
to stop the bloody squeaks. If somethings stuck due to ageing, use WD40. its magical.@@abundantharmony
Acetone and ATF, 50/50 is another recipe. Works quite well.
I guess you earned yourself a new subscriber 😉.
Thanks for sharing :)
Random hiking comment: you can also safely refill hiking gas canisters from cheap butane cans!
I finally bought one of those little brass connectors via ebay and tried it with a 100g hiking canister and a cheap butane canister from the hardware. ($10 vs $1.50 in Australia). It worked! And that stuff burns fine in the little screw-on burner. At 20 deg C it took the same time and weight of gas to boil a cup of water. In cold weather you need to warm it up more in a pocket (or armpit lol)
Thanks for sharing
This is actually pretty cool! I’m a big hack person and I’ve not seen it even thought of this.
Cool! Glad you enjoyed it :)
I used to do this, a few years back.
Instead of modifying the can, I heated it in boiling water, while pressing the valve, to clear out all the gas.
Cooling it, created a vacuum.
Then I inverted it in the replacement fluid, and pressed the valve, until the can stopped sucking it up.
Once done, a foot pump, for car tires, was used to force air into the can, by carefully timing the valve presses with the foot presses.
It works, and saves currency lumps too :) .
Awesome! Thanks for sharing!
Excellent!! Its only a bad idea for people that don't know what they are doing. I'm going to try this, thanks for sharing!!
Glad you enjoyed it :)
Confident that you know what you're doing then - after this one video tutorial?
good video..........Harbor Freight sold one of those cans in the 80's, we used it a lot on the farm.
How cool! Thanks for sharing :)
I’m quite thrilled to see your innovation; not sure I’ve got the patience to do it myself.
All good :) thanks for the kind words!
What a great idea. I was aware of the commercial fill-up variants, but these look so easy to make. Thanks for the inspiration. 👍
You’re welcome! Thanks for the kind comment 😊👍
A lot of things look easy just before they go terribly wrong.
@@andrewholdaway813You're not gonna die from refilling a can lmao
@@evictioncarpentry2628
Who said you would
@@evictioncarpentry2628 well introducing compressed air ( including oxygen) into a can with flamable liquid is particularly dangerous .
actually everybody should be in love with that idea. its low waste, reusable, cheaper.
you could use a proper welded container and change only the nozzle when you refil. if you drill in this paper thin aluminium it could be a problem
Thanks for watching. Keeping the PSI very low as mentioned is a very safe method!
You know you can buy compressed air cans that have adjustable nozzles And a fill cap. I’ve had several of them for 30 years and bought them used. 😊
That's called a paint gun.
@@derekcollins1972 if I was explaining a paint gun I would have said that.
Thanks for sharing 👍
Great idea 👍
In days gone by they used to sell hairspray in pump up bottles. Everything should be refillable an only use compressed air.
Cool I didn’t know that! Thanks for watching :)
These cans are pressurized with a propellent rather than air. Propane is commonly used. It would be possible to use a can of propane from a torch etc. to add the propellent rather than using air. Also, some automotive paint shops can make up a can of paint so they could supply a new empty can and place the valve in it before they attach the lid to it. Many possible ideas. But personally, I would just buy one of those purposely built aerosol cans that are meant for doing this.
Thanks for sharing :)
Great Video - you showed al the steps and things to look out for and it was fast - it is great for being able to put other fluids in that normally are not put in sprays - like light oils or brake fluid etc
Thanks for the kind words :) glad you enjoyed it!
@@VintageEngineRepairs Fastest reply ever - YT seems to have a lag on my posts - I never thought to solder the schrader valve - good tips with the ice as well -
@@TotalFreedomTTT-pk9st thank you :)
Did that very thing to a empty can of brake clean a while back. Worked great for a while then I realized the heat source caused the seal on the can to leak. Guess I over did it a little with the heat.
👍🍻
Ah yes quite possibly! Or the chemical you added damaged the plastic straw inside the can and it no longer worked. Use a can that previously had a strong chemical in and also, fill it with water when soldering to reduce the heat transfer to plastic components :)
@@VintageEngineRepairs I just simply didn't take the proper precautions to prevent over heating. Never added any chemicals as it was intended to be used solely for air to clean keyboards and such. The stem was soldered in the center of the bottom and resulted in a leak around nearly the entire bottom seal of the can. Oh well, my bad. 🤣
Great stuff and very good idea! Sorry to hear it didn’t work, give it another try :)
Get a rubber tip blow gun , and hold the can valve open and squeeze the blow gun trigger against the spray tip hole.
I repressurize cans like this all the time that have lost their propellant.
@@MrTheHillfolkive done that. Sonetimes it works sometimes not. Problem here is you could use a dozen cans for all the chemical you have sitting on the shelf, and you need a supply of shrader valves too.
I did this few years back. Works excellent and save a ton from those rip off price spray can.
A bit tricky to solder in. A propane torch and plumbing solder will work. Don't put too much heat or you will melt the spraying part.
Great to hear you had good success too :)
Any aerosol can can be refilled without even soldering the valve. It is enough to make an adapter out of plastic, which can be used to pair a syringe and an aerosol can. With the help of a syringe, any liquid can be poured into the container. And then add the propellant using a suitable adapter and temperature difference. LPG can be used as the propellant. In this case, a constant pressure is maintained in the tank until the propellant is used up. The process is similar to refilling small gas cans.
Thanks for sharing! You should do a video on it?
I quite often use gas in small cartridges designed for use with a compact burner. This process, of course, I can film. As for refilling aerosol cans, I haven't done that lately, but maybe if you're interested, I'll repeat this procedure for shooting. I'll tell you how it all started. It was a long time ago. Then in our country it was not easy to buy a pepper spray for self-defense. I was still a schoolboy and this topic interested me a lot, as the times were turbulent. Among other things, I knew chemistry very well, and now I work as a chemist by profession. I decided to make my own pepper spray. But not just peppery, but much more powerful, containing a more serious tear substance. I have explored several options. One of them was a-bromobenzyl cyanide, the other was 1,3-dichloroacetone oxime. The last substance is called nettle gas. These are very serious irritants. I synthesized both. I used sulfur dioxide as a propellant. It is an easily liquefied gas, it becomes liquid upon slight cooling. Used cans of deodorant. Fortunately, I did not have to use these devices for their intended purpose. It should be noted that the container containing a-bromobenzyl cyanide began to leak right at my house. Since this substance is unstable and releases hydrogen bromide, which is highly corrosive. It was a real disaster. I had to use a gas mask. But everything went well. I made the adapter from the polyethylene part of the coaxial cable, drilling holes on each side so that the rod of the aerosol bottle and the nozzle of the syringe would fit in there perfectly. All this was over 30 years ago. Time passes quickly, but something is not forgotten.
Haha, that sounds very interesting and way beyond what I’d ever feel comfortable making 🤣 stay safe and thanks for hanging around here! :)
If it has just lost the propellant and you need to pressurize it ,just use a rubber tip blow gun against the spray head and open them both at the same time.
Wear some glasses because if you're not good there will be a little spray flying around
Great idea ! Thanks for the thorough explanation and the wonderful country side backdrop.
You’re very welcome! Glad you enjoyed it :)
It is a much better idea to use a pump sprayer, you can refill them easily and they are much easier to strip and clean. You can but them in different sizes I use 500ml and 1l and you can select how much pressure you want. Those cans are designed for single use the nozzles tend to get clogged up. The difficult part is acquiring the stuff in bulk containers. Also this is quite dangerous if you do this to cans of flammable material you have compromised the pressure vessel they are likely to leak or blow at the worst moment. (Sods law) They won't leak 'air' they will leak flammable gas or liquid even from the top.
For about £3 you can buy a 500ml hand sprayer designed for corrosive liquids that will be safer, last longer and hold more product.
Thanks for sharing 👍
I used to work at a bicycle shop back in the 90s, 2000s. They had lots of cans like this that were used since the 60s.
That’s awesome! Thanks for sharing :)
Ive done this many times. I don't drill because of the risk of metal particles getting in. Just use tapered punch to enlarge the hole as necessary. Also, a big soldering iron is a much safer way to solder the valve. I usually just repressurized the can through the nozzle with freon based freeze spray rather than add a valve.
Thanks for sharing :)
How have you determined the fatigue behaviour of the cans?
You don’t need to when it’s only a few psi
I depressurize with existing valve but never tried refilling. Thanks for sharing
You’re welcome :)
@VintageEngineRepaires Actually this idea got me thinking. Why not use treated rivets?
The can will retain its structural integrity and threads on the valve.
Benefits of this way is to avoid heat and the valve can be replaced if necessary.
Give it a go and report back :)
@@VintageEngineRepairs If I don't forget it I will. But first I need an empty spraycan and look for the right size rivets. It should work and maybe even hold higher pressure than hard soldering that valve.😌
Those cans are designed with a safety margin for a single fill. Multiple reuse's will tend to stress the metal causing it to fail eventually. Even relatively low pressure's can have catastrophic consequenses.
Any number of substances that most people believe to be quite benign and safe become explosive when areosoled. Such as limestone dust, flour dust, aluminium powder, iron powder and so on. A recent example is the explosion in a grain facility in Turkey. Which was, in all probability caused by grain dust.
If you were to even partly fill that can with Methelated spirits and it exploded you would, in effect, have created a fuel/air bomb. A fuel air bomb is the largest non nuclear weapon in current arsenals. Filling a can with propane or some such is like playing russian roulette with all chambers loaded.
If you want to do something like this go out and buy a pump up plastic bottle for a couple of dollars and use that instead. The upside of that is they are usually extremely easy to fill and normally have a safety valve to stop over pressure.
Thanks for sharing! They are rated to over 300 psi new, adding in 10-20 psi will not stress them enough for any failure that will cause any harm. However if you don’t feel safe, I did mention a refillable version.
The problem is that alot of people will not be content with 10 or 20 psi. Additionally, even factoring in the resistance in the air line, it would be exceedingly easy to put in 100 psi, particularly if the can is 3/4 full of liquid. There is not a lot of head room to act as a buffer.@@VintageEngineRepairs
@@Agnemons As mentioned, I can’t give a safe PSI, there isn’t one. However starting off with 2-3 psi (which will never cause any damage if it fails) and then going from there is a sensible solution. Using a hand pump like I showed towards the end of this clip is very controllable. One has to take a certain amount of responsibility, especially when warned of the dangers and given a very low recommended pressure. Thanks again :)
@@Agnemons. If you are not competent in your ability to mitigate risk, which VER covered in his description more than once, then this economical hack is not for you. Common sence prevails and natural selection takes care of the rest.
I punched a hole in one with a tapered punch creating a threadable collar in the can top. I then threaded the "collar" and screwed in a valve. Worked great.
Awesome, thanks for sharing :-) glad you enjoyed the video!
That is just too much work with a high risk factor. Best just get a high quality squirt bottle, safe, easy, more control, less waste, adjustable nozzle gives atomize or stream.
Thanks for watching :) There is a small risk, if you don’t feel comfortable, you can grab the reliable one mentioned. 👍
Thanks, this looks like something I should be able to do, I've soldered plumbing joints.
Good stuff, glad it helped!
Congrats on 10k, well deserved.
Thank you!
I was confused why this video got recommended to me and initially I didn't want to watch it. It got recommended a second time and I clicked it. A dude appears and... hold up! I have seen the bloke before, but on another channel. Greetings from Germany. 😄
Ooo! How funny!! It’s me :) thanks for watching, be it under duress LOL!! 🤣
Dude! I tried this a while before this video and I thought I was crazy!
Nope you’re awesome haha
Now this is a very good how to video not like some of the crap some people put out cheers
Thanks for the kind words :) glad you enjoyed it!
An idea I just had, you could go a step further and install a pressure regulator and a separate pressure source, such as a bike tyre refill. No risk of boomboom and don't need to recharge so often
Thanks for sharing 👍
best video on this ive ever seen
will be subscribing
Thank you!
Congrats on 10k, well deserved. .
Thank you brother!
Good idea. I used to have an old stainless steel refillable fire extinguisher with valve and stem built in.- made a great water gun! I might make one of these, I assume the cans are galvanized steel which allows the solder to wet the metal?
Thanks for watching! I have no idea of the steel I’m afraid!
I just bought a maddox refillable pressurized sprayer from harbor freight and it is working fine.
Nice! You’re very fortunate in the USA, we don’t have anything affordable like that here in Australia. Everything is so expensive!
@@VintageEngineRepairs Oh I see, I did not know that. Is it also expensive to buy/import items from USA to Australia?
Yeah it’s crazy high!
You are very clever. 👍
Awesome idea.
Your presentation is clear and very easy to follow. I'm going to try this this weekend.
Thanks for sharing :) remember very low PSI. 2-3 psi.
Outstanding tutorial. Kudos.
Thank you! :)
That's pretty slick. It's a great idea!
Thanks Bill!
There's another one used smfor solvents like you made, works for anything even gas to spray as a clwaner
Cool! Thanks for sharing :)
I have a fire extinguisher that we fill up with water every time we have a bonfire pressurize it with the air compressor. (Great video idea)
Thanks for watching!
What a nice, humble and smiley teacher! Loved the idea. Q.1. Can I use soldering iron ko insulate instead of propane heating? Q.2. Can we fill the can with kerosene?
Thanks for the lovely comment! Sure, a soldering iron may just take longer to heat up :)
Could you get the compressed air through the nozzle without the need of modification?
Yep :) but you can’t add fluids.
That is a great idea. Thanks Tom.
You’re more than welcome mate :)
What solder adhesion promoter did you use?
thanks
Just a flux pen :)
They sell refillible spray cans... been using them for over 10 years now... Can buy at any Major online retailer.. It will tell you exactly how much pressure it can safely hold too! Worth the few extra bucks.
Yeah lots of options out there, this is just one :)
Smart, I'll definitely do this on the wd40 smart straw can. Here in the Netherlands those are not cheap at all...
And I think it's absolutely fun to solder a valve on a can 😂
Awesome :) enjoy the project! It will save a lot of money in the long run :)
What a marvellous video. I'll do this. Thank you
You’re welcome! :)
Awesome. Good tip using ice at the nozzle.
Thanks :) glad you enjoyed it!
Can we use two parts epoxy to fix the schrader valve to the can? Or using soldering method have any advantage over epoxy?
Either honestly, the key is keeping the pressure to an absolute minimum!!
@@VintageEngineRepairs Thanx. 👍
That´s a great idea!
Thanks for sharing!!!
You’re very welcome!
My kind of video.. I must try… great video
Glad you enjoyed it!
You can buy refillable rechargeable cans since atleast the 1980s, mine hold almost a quart. I have one for wd one for brake cleaner and one for carb n choke, no leaks in 30 years and way easier to fill.
That’s awesome! Thanks for sharing 👍
Great Video
Glad you enjoyed it!
I just bought a hand pump bottle. Love it
That’s good :)
I really must make this.
👍🏻👍🏻
Good vid, thank you!
You’re welcome, glad you enjoyed it!
With a good rubber air nozzle tip you can usually recharge a can some through the nozzle if you time it right and hold pressure to it, but I like this idea better.
Yes you’re spot on! Though I don’t think you can add fluid that way? Let me know if I’m wrong :) thanks for watching!
I've never tried it, but I've heard of graffiti artists mixing paint colors can to can connecting them with like a WD40 tube...@@VintageEngineRepairs
Cool! Thanks for sharing! I’ll check it out 👍
It's so nice hearing someone say solder instead of sodder
Lol, that’s funny :) thanks for watching!
perfect method.. thanks a lot
You’re welcome!
Thanks for the video and thanks for recycling idea🙏👍
You’re welcome, glad you enjoyed it!
about 22 ish years ago i bough a commercial version of this from harbor freight the whole spray nozzle assembly unscrewed so you could put your material in then had the air chuck in the bottom... material was much much thicker then that of whats used to make a regular spray paint can kind of sad they discontinued them about 18 years ago would really like to have another one
Thanks for sharing!
Make one with a piece of galvanized pipe and top from the can?
That is cool as hell very good video very simple thanks for posting
You’re welcome, thanks for watching :)
So what's the optimum amount of pressure you've found to have worked best ?
Hey Tony! I have explained this in the video. I can’t give a perfect PSI, start with a low pressure 5-10 psi and go from there until you get the atomisation you’re after. I have gone up to 100 psi, but I don’t recommend it and it’s not necessary!
Did you not listen to anything he said?
@@chrisallen2005 Hey Big mouth, I did, but he didn't specify the "optimum" amount.
Read comments very carefully before you shoot that big mouth off. Ok ?
Hey Tony, it’s all good mate, no I can’t give an optimum amount, best to start low and use as little pressure necessary to get the atomisation required. Better to refill with air a few times (just a few pumps of a hand pump) and keep it low :)
That actually is very helpful!!! I'll give it a try. Loved the video and your vibe! Keep it up! 👍
Glad you enjoyed it!
What sort of flux and solder did you use? Also where did you buy these is australia?
I just used solid lead solder, but what sorry?
Buy*
Awesome vid. Isopropyl alcohol is a great liquid to use for brakes, mass airflow sensor, throttle body cleaner etc. It must be above 92% though
Glad you enjoyed it :) thanks for sharing!
Very nice tutorial.
However regarding brake cleaner, the Bardahl one that I usually buy actually contains some sort of Coleman fuel (Sold at the hardware store under the name Petrol C here in France) and acetone, not just methylated spirits.
Thank you! Sure thing :) yes, there is generally a combination. Most where I am are a combination of naptha (the same as zippo fluid) and alcohol.
Could I do this with the hydraulic arm for the car boot?
I have no idea what you mean, sorry!
Great idea and nicely done
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it 👍
Thank you !!!!! I'll try one.
Best of luck, remember low pressure. Hand pump and start with just a few psi :)
Good job 👏
Thank you!
Heeey, soooo genious. Am now happily subscribed for more.
Thanks for the sub! :)
can use for spray paint?
I’m not sure! Give it a go :)
How about using B&D epoxy glue to fasten the valve onto the can? Not as messy.
Lots of people have suggested epoxy, I haven’t tried it! Just keep the pressure low when adding air - a few psi and see :) wear safety glasses!
I have the refillable can I bought from Amazon. Works great I’ve had it for over a year now. Only $25 at the time but I think they’ve gone up in price since
But I think I’m gonna make another one since I literally just got 4 schrader valves two days ago lol
They’re so expensive here ($100 Australian!) cool you have one though :)
@@VintageEngineRepairs damn $100 odd crazy. I didn’t want to pay $25 that’s why I’m gonna make there next one lol
Great info! Acid or rosen core ?
Solid lead :)
Brilliant idea. Love it.
Awesome, pleased to hear!
great little project even for pc air cleaner
Thanks for watching 👍
You can also use a thicker stainless steel water canister and put you own sprayer on it.
Yes :)
Thank you for sharing. Great idea. Cheers
You’re welcome :)
I didn't solider mine, i punched a hole to the inside and tapped it for threads then i twisted the threads onto the shrader and put an o ring on it and screwed it in. I just use low presure - you can fill it back up a bike tire pump! I have a very small tire pump that is supposed to be just for emergencies and it is terrible for the bike tires becuase it takes a half hour to pump up a tire but it works awesome for my WD40 can and my home starter fluid can!
Great stuff :) thanks for sharing!
Wow, that's awesome. Have you ever refill 2k primer, 2k paint and 2k clear coats in the raffle cans? Did you make great finish to respray on the car panel??
Thanks for watching, I haven’t tried 2k, I’ve stayed away from it due to how harsh it is :)