To add a bit to your post, the propellant in aerosol cans has evolved a bit over the years but it has never been air. In the beginning, it was R12 refrigerant. Obviously, this was curtailed with the whole ozone hole thing. The huge advantage of R12 is that in the can, it was partially liquid and partially gaseous. As the product was used, some of the gas would leave and then the liquid part would boil off to make more gas. As this happened, the cans would cool since the refrigerant was doing it's thing. More recently, CO2 has been used to avoid the greenhouse gas issue. Side note, I worked in a can research department of a major steel company, and I was the first one to find a way to use a can with a welded side seam as an aerosol can. If you look at the weld on your can, note the darkened area where the weld occurred. I figured out how to do that consistently in a way that could hold about 130 PSI safely.
Thank you for your contribution to something we all use everyday but take for granted! Innovators like you never get enough credit. Most people are clueless to all the work behind things that just “work” for them.
@@BryanBarcelo the company paid him. do you think the job was charity? i worked for a small company of 150 that had about 35 engineers. the patents filed usually had the company name on them. after all the 4 million a year in engineer salaries plus equiptment and building costs ate up the loose change. any bonus is just a bonus.
Turn the can upside down. That will prevent a lot of the fluid from coming out. If the can is designed to be held upright to spray then turn it upside down to refill. If the can is designed to be used upside down, then turn that can right side up to refill the air pressure.
harder to do, but this is the correct way, and is also the reason you are supposed to hold the can upside down when purging the spray nozzle after use.
I’ve been doing this for years without anything but a rubber tipped air inflator. Works perfectly, obviously you should take all the precautions the man showed you. Reminder to those who say just buy a new one "a penny saved is a penny earned”……
This is awesome. I bet if you fill the can while it's upside down, you wouldn't have hardly any mess spraying out. Mount your valve stem in a vice or something and just press the can down on it.
WD-40 is renowned in my experience for losing can pressure. Almost every can I purchase loses pressure over about a year on the shelf. This looks like it's worth a try. Thanks!
I've been working with WD-40 for over 50 years. Until about 10 years ago, I never had a problem with the cans losing pressure. Now it seems they don't last even a year. I'm sure it's because they replaced the aerosol with a different gas type. WD-40 was made in the town where I live and I've seen some cans on garage shelves that are 30 years old and still working. .
Sir, this is an excellent video. I've been recharging my depleted aerosol cans for years with a rubber tip on my air gun but your idea that incorporates a tire stem is brilliant. The safety shield made out of the spray can cap is also brilliant. Thank you for sharing this,
I "refill" my no-pressure cans by making an adapter between the target can and a can of Dust Off ("canned air"). Connect the 2 cans with the Dust Off upside down and press both spray valves. Some of the liquid from the Dust Off will be forced into the target can and will act as the missing propellant. Much easier and more long-lasting than using compressed air.
@@AJ........ -- That's irrelevant - when the cans run out of propellant, they're almost always down to an eighth or less of whatever is in the can such as paint. Repressurizing the can allows you to use up what's left of the paint. For lubricants or cleaners such as brake cleaner, it's also irrelevant as the air doesn't affect them. If you somehow find a paint can that has a LOT of paint left in it but has little pressure then just repressurize the can and use what you need of the paint. When done, turn the can upside down and bleed off the extra pressure by depressing the nozzle. When you go to use that spray paint can again, just repressurize it again. Best wishes! - Max Giganteum
You can do this with a foot pump or one of those small electric air tyre inflator pumps, you might not get the same pressure but in most cases will work good enough.
The number of safety precautions and references to SDS, rubber gloves, shields, disclaimers etc. I appreciate the tip, I will save numerous partial cans going forward. Most cans will not produce so much overspray if filled upside down. The pickup tube inside the can runs to the bottom of the can, when inverted the pickup tube will be in the empty portion of the can. Right side up and the pick up tube is down in the solution causing the back spray.
Great idea regarding the inverted can refill method. Your explanation of the mechanics of it is appreciated. At first, I did not understand why no product would be expelled, but I reread your explanation then formed a mental picture in my head. I could see the area around the fill tube being empty. Thanks!
I like that you include your original ideas along with your improved ideas. One thought would be to set the whole assembly down inside a piece of scrap PVC pipe. This might help with limiting the blowback mess and potential damage if the can did decide to give way. Kudos on stressing safety. Well done!
Originally, the cans were expected to hold 130 PSI since that is the pressure that the original R12 propellant would get to if left in the summer sun...
While it might seem like a good idea, I'd rather not add shrapnel to the 'plodey can. Pvc makes a MESS when it explodes. It's not a bad idea, but you'd want something better for your shield, maybe a double walled flue pipe or something
@@woodworkerroyer8497 "I'd rather not add shrapnel to the 'plodey can." I know right? There's already going to be *plenty* of shrapnel if the can goes boom. Especially considering that your hand is right next to it during filling.
it is a lot easier to just use a blowgun with a rubber tip just set compressor regulator to 80 or 90 if you are worried about it being too high the cans are rated for way more pressure than the can comes with.
For years now when this no pressure situation occurs, I punch a hole in the side of the WD40 can near the top edge and drain the remaining liquid into a small sealable container and use some leftover printer inkjet refill syringes to suck the liquid into. This makes a perfect way to apply the WD40 to even very tiny areas without a bunch of overspray. Works like a charm and nothing gets wasted.
I have been doing this for a long time just using a rubber tipped blow gun. You do not need to depress the nipple on top of the can, the air pressure opens the valve and I rarely lose any product unless the seal I make between the tip and the can allows some to escape.
I've scrolled long ways to find the exact comment I'd say cuz I figured it would be here but not for awhile. I never made a mess with rubber tip air chuck and it just back fills through the cans nozzle works perfectly
Regular air might affect the product. I use butane to recharge cans since most in my neck of the world they pressurize with butane. I use fine brass tubing to bridge the tips of the cans together.
That's true indeed because for example , Spray paint because regular air in the container will end up causing the paint to harden , Rendering it no good and by using a butane canister You greatly reduce the risk of overpressurizing the can , Yes there are certain products that compressed air being used as a propellant can be ruined by it
@@ironmartysharpe8293 Paint doesn't harden because while being in contact with air...it hardens when solvent evaporated in the air. Where do you want these solvent to go in a sealed can?
I was thinking using CO2 from a tank I use for homebrewing might be a better choice especially for paint cans. Great video and thanks for the link for the Tire Inflator with pressure gauge!
Here's a safe tip: A can that is nowhere near full, also does not need a full pressure spray. Only need to add about 30 lbs of air pressure to use up the excess. Be safe, don't add 90+ lbs of air to a near empty container. That lbs is for a new can. Be safe, don't use more pressure than needed. You get a lot more air in the can since it's not full of liquid. You don't need that high amount of dangerous pressure
@@paulg6858 Yes I learned it before I went to engineering school. You might try to apply it. FWIW there's no such thing as a pound of pressure. There is only a pound of mass or a pound of force.
90 lbs is 90 lbs whether it's all air or combination-air-and-fluid!! It's how the can is made... not the contents... that controls how much pressure it can handle!!!
Should we think about how a mix of compressed air and flamable liquid confined inside a can might behave? Perhaps nitrogen, carbon dioxide, or other non-oxidizing gas was used originally. Take care.
True. Common propellant is Isobutane/Butane. Which is inert and non reactive when mixed with paints or other petroleum liquids. When I have attempted to re pressurize cans, it was done with Butane.
tdranger6888: What do you think is going to happen when you mix air with an inert gas?! I'm more worried about mixing air with paint. I think it'll harden up and be useless.
Air from a household compressor is extremely reactive. Not only does it contain oxygen, it also contains a lot of water vapor. Paint ''dries'' by reacting with oxygen and water contained in the air.
Remember the whole point. This is to finish a job with a minimal amount of paint left in the can. On many chemicals air shouldn't be added for storage, but it can save a lot of time to get that last bit out of the can for completion. I would use an inline dryer to keep moisture out of the paint.
Great video, thanks! Harbor Freight just added a red pressurized spray container where you can buy from the WD-40 liquid in a 1 gallon container, not an aerosol, put it in their spray container and the use an air compressor to charge the container with air and never have to buy an aerosol can of WD-40 again and worry about loosing the aerosol pressure again.
I keep an old piercing style can tap for small Freon cylinders. Pierce and lock to the top of the can then feed it air as you like (matching fittings are cheap if you don't have an old AC gauge set lying around and you can use compressed air fittings to basically turn the can into an airbrush). The tap can also drain liquid from the bottom. I remove the valve from the piercing fitting so it's just a straight shot.
Brilliant, excellent idea. For those living in cold climates - make sure that your can are at upper room temperature when you use them - as air expands, it cools the can and you loose pressure. Keeping the can warm (not hot if it is full, it can burst) will extend the air pressure you get out of it. Great video of a very common problem, Ciao, L
you can warm the can by placing it in a basin of hot tap water as you do not want to use boiling water as the can could possible become over pressured and burst. I learned this hack when painting resin cast models of blasters from Star Wars as if youre trying to make them as realistic as possible you can go through a lot of paint if you dont try to use every bit out of can but I like this guys hack and Im definatly going to try it out.
If this fails and you're sure its out of propellant, you can knife open the cans and get the liquid out. Ive done that for WD 40. Really smart thaanks!
Co2 vs air is unimportant interms of paint curing. Most single component paints (not 2K epoxy) cure by evaporation of the solvents. Pressurization STOPS that evaporation. So y ou are ok to recharge spray paint cans with compressed air.
Great video very informative especially pointing out the different sizes and shapes of nozzles on each different can. I was wondering if this would the same way on the compressed air cans like you blow off the computer with or if that would not work because it has separate chemicals in it? I also had a suggestion you might try as far as the overspray when you make a shield for the valve, possibly cut a large enough hole in a plastic soda or water bottle for any size can to fit through or cut the bottom off completely to desired height & either place it on top of a old towel or rag that would absorb the overspray or cut the bottom off of another plastic bottle & place a towel or rag inside it to catch the overspray & still allow the excess air to escape when placing the two together. Use the top half the bottle including the lid screwed on tight, with a hole cut in it for the valve and the valve pulled through it, place the can resting on the bottom part of the cut out bottle, then place the upper part of the cut out bottle that has the lid screwed on tight with the air valve through it and connected to the air compressor nozzle on top of the towel, rag or cut out bottom part of the plastic bottle with the towel rag inside it leaving a slight air gap between the top and bottom plastic as you pressurize the can.
This is actually pretty awesome advice. Usually when people talk about stuff like this on here I see them drill a hole in the can and add the valve directly to it lol. All well and good if you want to keep reusing the can but tedious as hell to keep doing on new ones all the time if you use a lot of cans.
i actually like this tip more than other ones that i saw that drilled in the cans and added a valve... you use the same valve that is already present in the can, no drilling, much more safe!
Clamp your blower in the Vice aiming up and it's solid in the Vise turn can upside down push it down contents will stay in the can to refill! works perfect I noticed you didn't get the paint can to work does it not work with paint cans ??? Good job thanks !!!
@@nothankyou5524Well, I think we can agree that a compressor set to 50 psi is unlikely to pressurize anything to 100 psi. A bad gauge on the compressor might cause over pressurization. But a gauge right on the nozzle is probably even more likely to fail.
Very good and easy meethod. If you could somehow fill the can by holding it upside down while pressing air it would just spray out only a small amount of liquid for a second and then just take air without any spit
Dude, you're a genius. I've tried doing this with just the air hose and that wasn't ideal, ugh. Your solution is great, I have extra tire valves and can caps.
I did something similar with a can of Fix-a-flat, but I used an over-inflated tire to put about 45 pounds in it, then used it to seal an under-inflated tire with a rough bead. With any of these methods, it makes sense to use up the contents of the can quickly, since most of these products were not intended to be propelled by air.
Propane or butane as rattle-can propellant makes such things into hand grenades! Several have cooked off in hot trunks, causing substantial car body damage. I like the idea of air even if its not perfect.
If your somewhere where you don't have air you can simply lay the can down and step on it with all of your weight (flat footed, don't stomp on it). I've done this many times over the years and the only time I've ever had an issue was when I stomped on them = a couple times I creased them enough to where they leaked (but I got still got the needed WD from they leak). And JFYI, this doesn't work well on paint cans because the pressure won't be high enough for good spray pattern...
I have to say, I'm really impressed with your tips and demonstrations. Very professional and thorough. I don't know where you collected these tips from but they're very good tips. Thanks for the video! Luke
You can do that with the WD but in a paint can the nozzle needs to be cleaned, that is usually the case of not paint coming out of the can not a lack of pressure.
Don't use this method of you need predictable results like you get from a fresh can of paint. It is a good tip for other spray cans that don't need consistent pressure. For spray paints, a butane refill works better. Compressed air isn't what's used when the cans are filled at the factory. The propellant is something that's a gas at room temperature but a liquid under pressure. As you spray and use up the paint in the can, more propellant evaporates inside the can to maintain the pressure. The pressure in the can is determined by the vapor pressure of the propellant, so it stays constant as long as there is propellant in the can. Compressed air doesn't liquefy at a temperature or pressure useful for spray cans. It remains a compressed gas, and the pressure goes down as it expands to fill the space in the can when you spray. With compressed air, you need to put in a little more pressure than needed so that the pressure doesn't drop too low as soon as you spray a little. But you don't want so much pressure that the paint doesn't spray correctly. Typically, if you run out of original propellant, there isn't much paint left in the can. So one filling with compressed air will let you use up the contents. If you manage to empty the propellant on an almost full can (like by spraying with the can upside down), you might need to do several fills with compressed air to keep the pressure in a good range for spraying. You won't be able to overpressurize with a butane refill because butane vapor pressure isn't that high. With an air compressor, around 70 psi is optimal (it's a little more than what's needed). If you exceed around 90 psi, it may affect the quality of the spray, or possibly rupture the can.
This is actually a great idea, i have tossed too many half cans of WD40 because the air ran out. Thanks for giving out this great info, now instead of tossing out thise cans i will just put more air in them.
I always thought I had the best ideas but this one is something I never thought of. You earned a Like and a sub! I can’t wait to see what you do next. I have been looking for a air inflation device like this. As long as it last. I hate buying the same tools over and over again.
Nice, I've seen this trick before but I like the better gauge idea and after seeing what you did, I'll try that with an older tote and cut an area out for one arm to reach in.
With WD-40, which always seem to run out of aerosol with a lot of product still in the can, I use a punch can opener to open the bottom and pour it into a clean glass jar with a lid.
Great idea, and as seen it can be perfected like as we were shown with the cap instead of the face shield splatter protection. I’m thinking this can be modified for the valve to can also to reduce or even eliminate the splatter at the charging point, like an o-ring seal inside the tire valve. This is a great idea also for reusing the can because if air can be added, so can the desired fluid in the can. Hack at least and probably this man’s idea is a money idea… patent it Sir, “QUICKLY”…😊
It's a risk not really worth taking. I'm no engineer but as the can is bouncing back and forth from pressurized to not pressurized is not what most disposable cans are designed for. Most of the worlds steel is coming from China. It's a good guess that most companies making aerosol cans try to cut corners, save a penny use as less materials as they can, use forced labor. The raw materials used from China tend to all most allways be sup-par if not down right trash.....CAN IT BE DONE? YES. SHOULD IT BE DONE?? only if it's an emergency other then that. The risk far out weighs the benefit
I've been refilling dead WD40 cans with a rubber tip blow gun by air compressor for over 40 years. Sometimes the lower air pressure needs to be refilled 3 or 4 times to empty a can. I have had cans die that were half full.
I have a 15 year old spray paint can that still has pressure. WD 40 is the absolute worst spray product as far as retaining pressure. It must be intentional because if you've been pressurizing cans that long and my cans go flat too... ....they absolutely know it.
Great idea. I never thought if doing something like this before, but next time i run across a lame can I'm definitely going to try this. I wonder if my air compressing kit came with a nozzle i could use. I also have compression testers for engine cylinders, radiators and for filling radiatirs and they have pressure gauges on them
It works, I've been doing this with with insect repellent cans for a long time now, they always leak down. I was doing the same thing with the tire valves. I'm not so sure it would work long term for paint since the air is going to make it start drying in the can. The cans are originally charged with refrigerant (like an air duster) which doesn't make paint dry. That's another hack, if you have left over paint in a can, fill the can with an air duster slowly to displace the air in the can (refrigerant is heavier than air) and it will keep it from drying or skinning in the can. I did not know about the SDS showing the pressure for the can. That's an important tip.
Thank you so much! I’m pretty sure a bike pump might work, it might require a second hand to hold the nozzle, but honestly I haven’t tried it yet. Please let me know how it you do try it 🙏🏽👍🏽😊
That was one of the best videos, love the idea with the splatter cap. I'll give you a "98", my 2 per"CENTS" is a rag underneath the cap while repressurizing. Wish they filled them from the factory with one of those basketball needle valves on the bottom. Thanks for sharing 😊
Great idea on using the rag... bad idea on using a needle valve. Why? They cannot take 90 PSI or close to it - the pressure would almost completely bleed off if the valve even held the PSI in the first place. Great idea in theory but bad idea in practicality. Best wishes! - Max Giganteum
I have a bead cutting can opener that cuts along the outer edge on the seam. Only do this when empty and replace the lid after I use what I need with an acid brush.
Very interesting and useful. I throwing away dozens of these cans of various type because of the lack of pressure. Now I have a solution and thank you ❤🙏.
This is a brilliant way to get the remainder of the product out of an aerosol can. WD-40 seems to be the worst for running out of propellant before all the product is out. I don't remember how many cans of WD-40 I've had that this happened to. Good video.
Where can you find the safety data sheet info for various kinds of aerosol cans like this? It's NOT like they ever just print the "PSI" info on the outside of the can itself! I've never seen any info like that anywhere, so where can you go for that kind of info and what does it say in the header, or what does it look like?
Awesome tip. I actually never thought of recharging aerosol cans. And I was just cleaning my garage yesterday going thru all the cans and cleaners that lost air! I'm a fan and new subscriber now.
@two38382 vor 1 Monat If someone needed to do this, it would be way cheaper to buy a new can of whatever instead of buying all thease items. I have all thease items, but its rare i have a can with no presure. The homemade cap guard wont stop a overcharged or rusty can from exploding in someones face. I saw a guy loose his nose from a presurised brake bleeder blowing up and it was designed to be presurised by an air hose, but the gage stuck. I WOULD NOT recomend doing this to anyone. A new can of whatever is cheaper than plastic surgery.
You can simply use a blow gun, super quick and easy, one with a rubber tip is ideal. Another method is to use a canned "duster" which will fill it with liquid propellant, that lasts longer and doesn't contaminate the contents like compressed air will.
Or you can just recharge it with the butane lighter filler there's actually an adapter tip on the can it fits right into the top of an aerosol can or paint can
Forget using the "shield" or the cap for the spray can... just wrap a shop rag around the top of the can and hold it in place while you hold the tire stem in place. You can even use any old rag, towel, piece of a blanket or clothing you scrounge up. Best wishes! - Max Giganteum
Or you can use a small portable tire pump. Or, god forbid a bicycle pump. The other parts probably total $20. Use what you have or can get. There is also the option of disposing of it properly if you aren’t mechanically inclined.
good overview of cans with what I would call a "male" nozzle on the can,, female on the spray tip Any thoughts on recharging cans with a "female" nozzle, with the male tube on the spray nozzle?
I've been doing this for years but I just use a blow gun with a metal tube. I don't push the valve open, the air pressure does. I squeeze the cans for a gauge of pressure.
this is a great trick and im definately going to try it only because im a farmer and i have a few of those gauged inflaters so i can ruin one of the ones im not real attached to by getting paint up the hose and into the innerds of my inflater which im sure will shortin its life substancially
If you don't have the compressor and accessories, it's cheaper to buy a new can. If you don't have a workshop that you can make a mess of, it's cleaner to buy a new can. If re-pressurizing is not for immediate use, normal air can damage the product inside the can and it is better to buy a new can. Buying new is sure less environmentally friendly, but the idea you suggest is so unnecessary and a waste of time and energy. But if one going to do what you suggest, it's better to turn the can up side down while filling. It's a lot less messy
It is hardly a waste of time or money when you have an expensive product and you need it now, without running to the store. I had my wheels off the car yesterday and wanted to spray some undercoating inside the wheel wells. But the can had lost pressure. So I put the wheels back on without giving the car the treatment it needed. I would have been very happy to use this method!
i just drilled my cheap blow gun out to same as the cans plastic spray pin .i put a quick blast of 100psi and good for a few days again because can valve is usualy faulty . good video and a safe way of doing it. also very good at stopping so much waste going into land fills .
I knew this was possible, but I wasn't sure how to charge the cans. Thanks for making this video, as I will make sure to remember it for future reference.
Not true. Single stage paints (not 2K epoxy or catalyzed paint) cure by evaporation of the solvent, not oxidization. If the can is under pressure, the solvents in the paint can't evaporate. Propane/butane/CO2 is used because it can be compressed into a liquid at low pressures so therefore has more potential expansion energy and the pressurization charge lasts longer.
Hello, I have a change in the way you did the tire valve. Drill your holes the same , but the one in the Plywood, needs to be a little larger . Put everything together up to the plywood, then put the valve stem through the plywood! take two small wood screws and attach the cap to the plywood : when you turn the can upside down into the cap, you will not spray any liquid out as it is now lower than the bottom of the straw !
i have some of these cans and i may try it, thnx. i'll try just using a hand bike pump which is what i still use to keep my car tires up to snuff. it takes a little time but it does the job and a bit of excersize.
2 variables to consider. 1) some cans may have check valves 2) a lot of cans don’t have a nipple coming out. The nipple is on the nozzle. Could probably fabricate something to accommodate those.
I bought a reusable can that you pour whatever into and charge it with air and it sprays again. Ideally liquid co2 would be best to pump in for longer consistent pressure release
One problem I see if the blow back from pressuring W-D or any petroleum products will shoot oil back into air hose and if you put it on a paint can you will put oil in the paint can and will mess up the paint. I have run into this problem.
Childs play. I used to refill "flick-flint" butane lighters from the aerosol cans the bulk fluid/gas came in. Same principal although the lighters used a safety mechanism (in the exit valve) which meant the process of refilling them, was a lot more complicated. Still, I not only refilled them I also had new flints to re-flint them with too, thus re-used many before they simply fell apart.
Great idea. I like it and might use it on non paint aerosol cans. In the past, I would drill a hole into the side of a dead WD40 can and pour the contents into a spray bottle.
I took your safety tips to heart so I also encircled my house with danger tape, informed the local emergency room, sent my family a mile away and put on a full hazmat suit. Whew that was super scary.
You sir did not do enough, for good measure, you should have contacted your fire department, police precinct, your neighbors, gas company, and any gas stations to warn them of the impending danger
With your overwhelming lack of brain cells, I don't think you should even be using a brand new can. You'll shoot your eye out! Give the guy some worthy credit. Please do share some of your ideas with us on your own video.
What you're all forgetting is it takes 1 person to do it wrong, get some WD40 in his eye then sue his ass off and bankrupting him for not giving enough warning blah, blah, blah. It's the world we live in folks.
First off, this is a silly video loaded with a waste of information for clicks only, designed to keep you watching so he can load up on google metrics to monetize his video. No one is seriously going to spend $35.00 buying crap to refill a $5.00 can. If WD40 gets in ones eye, nothing is going to happen, as WD is not acid and I am a mechanic and have been subjected to worst than that at work.
Great ideas, however, you missed a few important things. In addition, you should go to your city building department and pay the $200 fee to have a permit pulled. Then in a month or two, after it's approved, you should only have the work done by a union member who is fully insured and licensed. Just thought I'd add that, it's essential.
Others should eb careful using this technique. My cousin's friend's brother-in-law knew a guy at work who did this. The knot in his belly button let go and he went flying around the room like a party balloon! Be careful!!!!
Did this the other day but used a 20 dollar cordless Bauer pump used the tip for pumping up balloons pushed down on the plastic tip pumped it worked like a charm I was amazed 😊
You definitely need to have a separate tire value stem for different products. If you have WD40 anywhere near your paint it will definitely ruin your paint job.
To add a bit to your post, the propellant in aerosol cans has evolved a bit over the years but it has never been air. In the beginning, it was R12 refrigerant. Obviously, this was curtailed with the whole ozone hole thing. The huge advantage of R12 is that in the can, it was partially liquid and partially gaseous. As the product was used, some of the gas would leave and then the liquid part would boil off to make more gas. As this happened, the cans would cool since the refrigerant was doing it's thing. More recently, CO2 has been used to avoid the greenhouse gas issue.
Side note, I worked in a can research department of a major steel company, and I was the first one to find a way to use a can with a welded side seam as an aerosol can. If you look at the weld on your can, note the darkened area where the weld occurred. I figured out how to do that consistently in a way that could hold about 130 PSI safely.
This guy is just using a bit of air pressure to squeeze the bottle. Waste not want not .cheers.
Congrats! Curious, did the company break you off properly or at all for your innovation?
Thank you for your contribution to something we all use everyday but take
for granted! Innovators like you never get enough credit. Most people are clueless to all the work behind things that just “work” for them.
@@BryanBarcelo the company paid him. do you think the job was charity? i worked for a small company of 150 that had about 35 engineers. the patents filed usually had the company name on them. after all the 4 million a year in engineer salaries plus equiptment and building costs ate up the loose change. any bonus is just a bonus.
I would think that air would allow the paint to harden inside the can
Turn the can upside down. That will prevent a lot of the fluid from coming out. If the can is designed to be held upright to spray then turn it upside down to refill. If the can is designed to be used upside down, then turn that can right side up to refill the air pressure.
harder to do, but this is the correct way, and is also the reason you are supposed to hold the can upside down when purging the spray nozzle after use.
Good one!
I was just going to post that this should be done upside down.
@@Mikej1592I'm confused now whether I should do it upright or upside down
So, you say this is a two person job? One holds the can and one to fill it
I’ve been doing this for years without anything but a rubber tipped air inflator. Works perfectly, obviously you should take all the precautions the man showed you. Reminder to those who say just buy a new one "a penny saved is a penny earned”……
Plus when you're trying to finish a job, you don't have to run out, and get it.
Yeah, but it's not a penny saved if you don't own a compressor. And in my country, most people don't.
First couple of times you feel the can expand when you charge it is interesting😂
@@jonsumisu9016then cant afford a pressurized can too.. So no problem.. 😊😊😊
This should be top comment. Just add a little bit of air at a time until it’s enough to expel the contents. Then you won’t over pressurize it.
This is awesome. I bet if you fill the can while it's upside down, you wouldn't have hardly any mess spraying out. Mount your valve stem in a vice or something and just press the can down on it.
Thank you for the feedback! 👍🏽🙏🏽😊
WD-40 is renowned in my experience for losing can pressure. Almost every can I purchase loses pressure over about a year on the shelf. This looks like it's worth a try. Thanks!
I've been working with WD-40 for over 50 years. Until about 10 years ago, I never had a problem with the cans losing pressure. Now it seems they don't last even a year. I'm sure it's because they replaced the aerosol with a different gas type. WD-40 was made in the town where I live and I've seen some cans on garage shelves that are 30 years old and still working. .
got terribly frustrated with wd40 because of brand new cans not dispensing and bought the gallon non aerosol because of that.
Read my comment wd40 will send you coupons for new can if it does not spray all out ,yw
Turn the can upside down when spraying. I’m a locksmith. I go through 40-50 cans a year. I never have a problem with low pressure.
I just called the company and get a new can.
Sir, this is an excellent video. I've been recharging my depleted aerosol cans for years with a rubber tip on my air gun but your idea that incorporates a tire stem is brilliant. The safety shield made out of the spray can cap is also brilliant. Thank you for sharing this,
Oh my goodness, bla, bla
Genuinely useful and REAL - unlike other silly "tips and hacks". Thank you !!
I "refill" my no-pressure cans by making an adapter between the target can and a can of Dust Off ("canned air"). Connect the 2 cans with the Dust Off upside down and press both spray valves. Some of the liquid from the Dust Off will be forced into the target can and will act as the missing propellant. Much easier and more long-lasting than using compressed air.
That's interesting
Dust off costs money. I allready have a air compressor for air tools.
@@John-e4t2nNot everybody does and the way he recommends is a large investment for a few salvaged cans. Dust off sounds better
True...and for paint type cans the paint reacts with air, so I wonder if compressed air can cause paint to dry or harden some on the can
@@AJ........ -- That's irrelevant - when the cans run out of propellant, they're almost always down to an eighth or less of whatever is in the can such as paint. Repressurizing the can allows you to use up what's left of the paint. For lubricants or cleaners such as brake cleaner, it's also irrelevant as the air doesn't affect them. If you somehow find a paint can that has a LOT of paint left in it but has little pressure then just repressurize the can and use what you need of the paint. When done, turn the can upside down and bleed off the extra pressure by depressing the nozzle. When you go to use that spray paint can again, just repressurize it again. Best wishes!
- Max Giganteum
You can do this with a foot pump or one of those small electric air tyre inflator pumps, you might not get the same pressure but in most cases will work good enough.
I'm going to try with a footpump. Some pumps like the Kismet Master can do 200-300 psi so should do 90 easy.
I do this all the time. Easy. Fast. Invest only bike pump.
The number of safety precautions and references to SDS, rubber gloves, shields, disclaimers etc. I appreciate the tip, I will save numerous partial cans going forward.
Most cans will not produce so much overspray if filled upside down. The pickup tube inside the can runs to the bottom of the can, when inverted the pickup tube will be in the empty portion of the can. Right side up and the pick up tube is down in the solution causing the back spray.
Do this outdoors, and I think you’re probably correct.
Great idea. Just mount the stem to a sturdy surface so you can push the can down...
I was going to say the same thing about turning the can upside down to have the bottom of the tube in the can in the air pocket instead of the liquid.
Ok i'll just buy a new can of wd-40.Thnks
Great idea regarding the inverted can refill method. Your explanation of the mechanics of it is appreciated. At first, I did not understand why no product would be expelled, but I reread your explanation then formed a mental picture in my head. I could see the area around the fill tube being empty. Thanks!
I like that you include your original ideas along with your improved ideas. One thought would be to set the whole assembly down inside a piece of scrap PVC pipe. This might help with limiting the blowback mess and potential damage if the can did decide to give way. Kudos on stressing safety. Well done!
Originally, the cans were expected to hold 130 PSI since that is the pressure that the original R12 propellant would get to if left in the summer sun...
@@diverbob8I would not assume more modern cans have the same capacity.
While it might seem like a good idea, I'd rather not add shrapnel to the 'plodey can. Pvc makes a MESS when it explodes. It's not a bad idea, but you'd want something better for your shield, maybe a double walled flue pipe or something
@@woodworkerroyer8497 "I'd rather not add shrapnel to the 'plodey can."
I know right? There's already going to be *plenty* of shrapnel if the can goes boom. Especially considering that your hand is right next to it during filling.
it is a lot easier to just use a blowgun with a rubber tip just set compressor regulator to 80 or 90 if you are worried about it being too high the cans are rated for way more pressure than the can comes with.
For years now when this no pressure situation occurs, I punch a hole in the side of the WD40 can near the top edge and drain the remaining liquid into a small sealable container and use some leftover printer inkjet refill syringes to suck the liquid into. This makes a perfect way to apply the WD40 to even very tiny areas without a bunch of overspray. Works like a charm and nothing gets wasted.
I have been doing this for a long time just using a rubber tipped blow gun. You do not need to depress the nipple on top of the can, the air pressure opens the valve and I rarely lose any product unless the seal I make between the tip and the can allows some to escape.
I've scrolled long ways to find the exact comment I'd say cuz I figured it would be here but not for awhile. I never made a mess with rubber tip air chuck and it just back fills through the cans nozzle works perfectly
Regular air might affect the product. I use butane to recharge cans since most in my neck of the world they pressurize with butane. I use fine brass tubing to bridge the tips of the cans together.
That's true indeed because for example , Spray paint because regular air in the container will end up causing the paint to harden , Rendering it no good and by using a butane canister
You greatly reduce the risk of overpressurizing the can , Yes there are certain products that compressed air being used as a propellant can be ruined by it
@@ironmartysharpe8293 Paint doesn't harden because while being in contact with air...it hardens when solvent evaporated in the air.
Where do you want these solvent to go in a sealed can?
I was thinking using CO2 from a tank I use for homebrewing might be a better choice especially for paint cans. Great video and thanks for the link for the Tire Inflator with pressure gauge!
Great idea, I have CO2 welding gas tank.
Here's a safe tip: A can that is nowhere near full, also does not need a full pressure spray. Only need to add about 30 lbs of air pressure to use up the excess. Be safe, don't add 90+ lbs of air to a near empty container. That lbs is for a new can. Be safe, don't use more pressure than needed. You get a lot more air in the can since it's not full of liquid. You don't need that high amount of dangerous pressure
I don't think you understand how pressure works.
@@johndough9187 Looks like it's you who doesn't know how pressure works. Remember Boyle's Law?
@@paulg6858 Yes I learned it before I went to engineering school. You might try to apply it. FWIW there's no such thing as a pound of pressure. There is only a pound of mass or a pound of force.
Isnt 90lbs pressure the same amount of pressure whether the can is full or empty?
90 lbs is 90 lbs whether it's all air or combination-air-and-fluid!! It's how the can is made... not the contents... that controls how much pressure it can handle!!!
Should we think about how a mix of compressed air and flamable liquid confined inside a can might behave? Perhaps nitrogen, carbon dioxide, or other non-oxidizing gas was used originally. Take care.
True. Common propellant is Isobutane/Butane. Which is inert and non reactive when mixed with paints or other petroleum liquids. When I have attempted to re pressurize cans, it was done with Butane.
tdranger6888:
What do you think is going to happen when you mix air with an inert gas?!
I'm more worried about mixing air with paint. I think it'll harden up and be useless.
Air from a household compressor is extremely reactive. Not only does it contain oxygen, it also contains a lot of water vapor. Paint ''dries'' by reacting with oxygen and water contained in the air.
Remember the whole point. This is to finish a job with a minimal amount of paint left in the can. On many chemicals air shouldn't be added for storage, but it can save a lot of time to get that last bit out of the can for completion. I would use an inline dryer to keep moisture out of the paint.
Hio.@@rey3472
Great video, thanks! Harbor Freight just added a red pressurized spray container where you can buy from the WD-40 liquid in a 1 gallon container, not an aerosol, put it in their spray container and the use an air compressor to charge the container with air and never have to buy an aerosol can of WD-40 again and worry about loosing the aerosol pressure again.
*losing
@@JohnSmith-gq9gn what do you mean?
@@billhandymanbill2775 Loosing or losing. Two different meanings.
@@billhandymanbill2775.......case-in-point, don't perform: The re-pressurization of any can.
Thanks for the tip. I was just there buying their $12.99 variable speed drill. I might have to go back.
I keep an old piercing style can tap for small Freon cylinders. Pierce and lock to the top of the can then feed it air as you like (matching fittings are cheap if you don't have an old AC gauge set lying around and you can use compressed air fittings to basically turn the can into an airbrush). The tap can also drain liquid from the bottom. I remove the valve from the piercing fitting so it's just a straight shot.
Brilliant, excellent idea. For those living in cold climates - make sure that your can are at upper room temperature when you use them - as air expands, it cools the can and you loose pressure. Keeping the can warm (not hot if it is full, it can burst) will extend the air pressure you get out of it. Great video of a very common problem, Ciao, L
you can warm the can by placing it in a basin of hot tap water as you do not want to use boiling water as the can could possible become over pressured and burst. I learned this hack when painting resin cast models of blasters from Star Wars as if youre trying to make them as realistic as possible you can go through a lot of paint if you dont try to use every bit out of can but I like this guys hack and Im definatly going to try it out.
If this fails and you're sure its out of propellant, you can knife open the cans and get the liquid out. Ive done that for WD 40. Really smart thaanks!
With the WD - 40, it's a good idea, but with paint, not so much.
Paint will dry out with air. Needs CO2.
But you can get the last ditch out of a can with this methode.
Co2 vs air is unimportant interms of paint curing. Most single component paints (not 2K epoxy) cure by evaporation of the solvents. Pressurization STOPS that evaporation. So y ou are ok to recharge spray paint cans with compressed air.
Love it!!! You're both saving money and saving the environment! Saving green is often saving green folks. Repair when possible and logical.
Great video very informative especially pointing out the different sizes and shapes of nozzles on each different can. I was wondering if this would the same way on the compressed air cans like you blow off the computer with or if that would not work because it has separate chemicals in it?
I also had a suggestion you might try as far as the overspray when you make a shield for the valve, possibly cut a large enough hole in a plastic soda or water bottle for any size can to fit through or cut the bottom off completely to desired height & either place it on top of a old towel or rag that would absorb the overspray or cut the bottom off of another plastic bottle & place a towel or rag inside it to catch the overspray & still allow the excess air to escape when placing the two together.
Use the top half the bottle including the lid screwed on tight, with a hole cut in it for the valve and the valve pulled through it, place the can resting on the bottom part of the cut out bottle, then place the upper part of the cut out bottle that has the lid screwed on tight with the air valve through it and connected to the air compressor nozzle on top of the towel, rag or cut out bottom part of the plastic bottle with the towel rag inside it leaving a slight air gap between the top and bottom plastic as you pressurize the can.
This is actually pretty awesome advice. Usually when people talk about stuff like this on here I see them drill a hole in the can and add the valve directly to it lol. All well and good if you want to keep reusing the can but tedious as hell to keep doing on new ones all the time if you use a lot of cans.
i actually like this tip more than other ones that i saw that drilled in the cans and added a valve... you use the same valve that is already present in the can, no drilling, much more safe!
Clamp your blower in the Vice aiming up and it's solid in the Vise turn can upside down push it down contents will stay in the can to refill! works perfect I noticed you didn't get the paint can to work does it not work with paint cans ??? Good job thanks !!!
Great hack! I just got a can of WD-40 that stopped working b/c of no propellant. You are very methodical and clear in you explanation, thanks 👍
Buy it in liquid form and put it in a pump spray bottle.... Never worry about losing air.
Would that work with an electric tire compressor? They stop off when pressure is reached.
Set your compressor pressure regulator to 50 to 55 psi. Its enough to re-charge, and makes it impossible to over-pressure the can to a danger level.
Nothing is ever impossible if safety is a concern.
@@nothankyou5524Well, I think we can agree that a compressor set to 50 psi is unlikely to pressurize anything to 100 psi. A bad gauge on the compressor might cause over pressurization. But a gauge right on the nozzle is probably even more likely to fail.
Very good and easy meethod.
If you could somehow fill the can by holding it upside down while pressing air it would just spray out only a small amount of liquid for a second and then just take air without any spit
Dude, you're a genius. I've tried doing this with just the air hose and that wasn't ideal, ugh. Your solution is great, I have extra tire valves and can caps.
REALLY GOOD JOB!!! You took your time and *MOST IMPORTANT* you covered all the SAFETY AREAS! All that makes you a *FAVORITE CHANNEL* !!!
I did something similar with a can of Fix-a-flat, but I used an over-inflated tire to put about 45 pounds in it, then used it to seal an under-inflated tire with a rough bead. With any of these methods, it makes sense to use up the contents of the can quickly, since most of these products were not intended to be propelled by air.
That's awesome that you transferred the air from one tire to the next using the can....you my friend deserve a drink 🍻
Propane or butane as rattle-can propellant makes such things into hand grenades! Several have cooked off in hot trunks, causing substantial car body damage. I like the idea of air even if its not perfect.
If your somewhere where you don't have air you can simply lay the can down and step on it with all of your weight (flat footed, don't stomp on it).
I've done this many times over the years and the only time I've ever had an issue was when I stomped on them = a couple times I creased them enough to where they
leaked (but I got still got the needed WD from they leak). And JFYI, this doesn't work well on paint cans because the pressure won't be high enough for good spray pattern...
Love your videos. Finally a UA-camr that knows how to deal with every day situations.
I have to say, I'm really impressed with your tips and demonstrations. Very professional and thorough. I don't know where you collected these tips from but they're very good tips. Thanks for the video! Luke
Compressed air has water in it. As far as the paint goes. What about the water in the air your putting in the can?
Water separation filter.
Merci!
Place the can in a cardboard box with top lids cut off along with cap shield as described for keeping overspeay contained.
You can do that with the WD but in a paint can the nozzle needs to be cleaned, that is usually the case of not paint coming out of the can not a lack of pressure.
Don't use this method of you need predictable results like you get from a fresh can of paint. It is a good tip for other spray cans that don't need consistent pressure. For spray paints, a butane refill works better.
Compressed air isn't what's used when the cans are filled at the factory. The propellant is something that's a gas at room temperature but a liquid under pressure. As you spray and use up the paint in the can, more propellant evaporates inside the can to maintain the pressure. The pressure in the can is determined by the vapor pressure of the propellant, so it stays constant as long as there is propellant in the can.
Compressed air doesn't liquefy at a temperature or pressure useful for spray cans. It remains a compressed gas, and the pressure goes down as it expands to fill the space in the can when you spray. With compressed air, you need to put in a little more pressure than needed so that the pressure doesn't drop too low as soon as you spray a little. But you don't want so much pressure that the paint doesn't spray correctly.
Typically, if you run out of original propellant, there isn't much paint left in the can. So one filling with compressed air will let you use up the contents. If you manage to empty the propellant on an almost full can (like by spraying with the can upside down), you might need to do several fills with compressed air to keep the pressure in a good range for spraying.
You won't be able to overpressurize with a butane refill because butane vapor pressure isn't that high. With an air compressor, around 70 psi is optimal (it's a little more than what's needed). If you exceed around 90 psi, it may affect the quality of the spray, or possibly rupture the can.
This is actually a great idea, i have tossed too many half cans of WD40 because the air ran out. Thanks for giving out this great info, now instead of tossing out thise cans i will just put more air in them.
Thank you so much! I’m glad I could be of help! 🙏🏽😊
I always thought I had the best ideas but this one is something I never thought of. You earned a Like and a sub! I can’t wait to see what you do next. I have been looking for a air inflation device like this. As long as it last. I hate buying the same tools over and over again.
I’m glad I could be of help! Thank you so much for the love and support my friend! 🙏🏽😊
Nice, I've seen this trick before but I like the better gauge idea and after seeing what you did, I'll try that with an older tote and cut an area out for one arm to reach in.
Great idea! I will try it. I usually punch a hole in the can and drain the liquid into a manual spray bottle.
With WD-40, which always seem to run out of aerosol with a lot of product still in the can, I use a punch can opener to open the bottom and pour it into a clean glass jar with a lid.
Great idea, and as seen it can be perfected like as we were shown with the cap instead of the face shield splatter protection. I’m thinking this can be modified for the valve to can also to reduce or even eliminate the splatter at the charging point, like an o-ring seal inside the tire valve. This is a great idea also for reusing the can because if air can be added, so can the desired fluid in the can. Hack at least and probably this man’s idea is a money idea… patent it Sir, “QUICKLY”…😊
It's a risk not really worth taking. I'm no engineer but as the can is bouncing back and forth from pressurized to not pressurized is not what most disposable cans are designed for. Most of the worlds steel is coming from China. It's a good guess that most companies making aerosol cans try to cut corners, save a penny use as less materials as they can, use forced labor. The raw materials used from China tend to all most allways be sup-par if not down right trash.....CAN IT BE DONE? YES. SHOULD IT BE DONE?? only if it's an emergency other then that. The risk far out weighs the benefit
I've been refilling dead WD40 cans with a rubber tip blow gun by air compressor for over 40 years. Sometimes the lower air pressure needs to be refilled 3 or 4 times to empty a can. I have had cans die that were half full.
I have a 15 year old spray paint can that still has pressure.
WD 40 is the absolute worst spray product as far as retaining pressure.
It must be intentional because if you've been pressurizing cans that long and my cans go flat too...
....they absolutely know it.
@@randywl8925 Yes, and they sell 4 times as many cans as people need to buy = $$$$$
Good safety tips as well as good information!
Clear, Concise, and to the Point. Well done.
Great idea. I never thought if doing something like this before, but next time i run across a lame can I'm definitely going to try this. I wonder if my air compressing kit came with a nozzle i could use. I also have compression testers for engine cylinders, radiators and for filling radiatirs and they have pressure gauges on them
Rubber tipped blow gun is all ya need.
It works, I've been doing this with with insect repellent cans for a long time now, they always leak down. I was doing the same thing with the tire valves. I'm not so sure it would work long term for paint since the air is going to make it start drying in the can. The cans are originally charged with refrigerant (like an air duster) which doesn't make paint dry. That's another hack, if you have left over paint in a can, fill the can with an air duster slowly to displace the air in the can (refrigerant is heavier than air) and it will keep it from drying or skinning in the can. I did not know about the SDS showing the pressure for the can. That's an important tip.
Really liked the video and the clear way you communicate. Not sure if this was asked yet, but can a bicycle hand pump be used?
Thank you so much! I’m pretty sure a bike pump might work, it might require a second hand to hold the nozzle, but honestly I haven’t tried it yet. Please let me know how it you do try it 🙏🏽👍🏽😊
That was one of the best videos, love the idea with the splatter cap. I'll give you a "98", my 2 per"CENTS" is a rag underneath the cap while repressurizing. Wish they filled them from the factory with one of those basketball needle valves on the bottom. Thanks for sharing 😊
Great idea on using the rag... bad idea on using a needle valve. Why? They cannot take 90 PSI or close to it - the pressure would almost completely bleed off if the valve even held the PSI in the first place. Great idea in theory but bad idea in practicality. Best wishes!
- Max Giganteum
I have a bead cutting can opener that cuts along the outer edge on the seam. Only do this when empty and replace the lid after I use what I need with an acid brush.
Very interesting and useful. I throwing away dozens of these cans of various type because of the lack of pressure. Now I have a solution and thank you ❤🙏.
This is a brilliant way to get the remainder of the product out of an aerosol can. WD-40 seems to be the worst for running out of propellant before all the product is out. I don't remember how many cans of WD-40 I've had that this happened to. Good video.
always wondered if i could save my cans somehow, great video thanks man
Where can you find the safety data sheet info for various kinds of aerosol cans like this? It's NOT like they ever just print the "PSI" info on the outside of the can itself! I've never seen any info like that anywhere, so where can you go for that kind of info and what does it say in the header, or what does it look like?
Awesome tip. I actually never thought of recharging aerosol cans. And I was just cleaning my garage yesterday going thru all the cans and cleaners that lost air! I'm a fan and new subscriber now.
thank you, especially for emphasizing the safety equipment. Well produced and easy to understand
Never knew those cans could take so much pressure. Great video sir.
Except for the California 'EverydayIsDoomdsay" Warnings, I'm almost glad I had to get MSDS sheets for every aerosol I had.
They can. One time.
@two38382
vor 1 Monat
If someone needed to do this, it would be way cheaper to buy a new can of whatever instead of buying all thease items. I have all thease items, but its rare i have a can with no presure. The homemade cap guard wont stop a overcharged or rusty can from exploding in someones face. I saw a guy loose his nose from a presurised brake bleeder blowing up and it was designed to be presurised by an air hose, but the gage stuck. I WOULD NOT recomend doing this to anyone. A new can of whatever is cheaper than plastic surgery.
You can simply use a blow gun, super quick and easy, one with a rubber tip is ideal. Another method is to use a canned "duster" which will fill it with liquid propellant, that lasts longer and doesn't contaminate the contents like compressed air will.
Or you can just recharge it with the butane lighter filler there's actually an adapter tip on the can it fits right into the top of an aerosol can or paint can
Forget using the "shield" or the cap for the spray can... just wrap a shop rag around the top of the can and hold it in place while you hold the tire stem in place. You can even use any old rag, towel, piece of a blanket or clothing you scrounge up. Best wishes!
- Max Giganteum
I spent 270$ buying s compressor and the other parts to get the last of my wd40 anb the door hinge still squeaking. Gutted
Or you can use a small portable tire pump. Or, god forbid a bicycle pump. The other parts probably total $20.
Use what you have or can get.
There is also the option of disposing of it properly if you aren’t mechanically inclined.
good overview of cans with what I would call a "male" nozzle on the can,, female on the spray tip
Any thoughts on recharging cans with a "female" nozzle, with the male tube on the spray nozzle?
Great hack and i'm very impressed with the attention to safety.
I've been doing this for years but I just use a blow gun with a metal tube. I don't push the valve open, the air pressure does. I squeeze the cans for a gauge of pressure.
WD40 is notorious for not spraying when still full.
So, compressor, valve assembly (with pressure gauge), all the ppe , all the time etc., to recover a few pence (cents) worth of WD40?
Great trick for if I ever buy an air compressor.
this is a great trick and im definately going to try it only because im a farmer and i have a few of those gauged inflaters so i can ruin one of the ones im not real attached to by getting paint up the hose and into the innerds of my inflater which im sure will shortin its life substancially
If you don't have the compressor and accessories, it's cheaper to buy a new can.
If you don't have a workshop that you can make a mess of, it's cleaner to buy a new can.
If re-pressurizing is not for immediate use, normal air can damage the product inside the can and it is better to buy a new can.
Buying new is sure less environmentally friendly, but the idea you suggest is so unnecessary and a waste of time and energy.
But if one going to do what you suggest, it's better to turn the can up side down while filling. It's a lot less messy
Or buy the WD in a gallon can should last 10 years or more. I use a nail to puncture the can and pour onto a rag as needed.
It is hardly a waste of time or money when you have an expensive product and you need it now, without running to the store. I had my wheels off the car yesterday and wanted to spray some undercoating inside the wheel wells. But the can had lost pressure. So I put the wheels back on without giving the car the treatment it needed. I would have been very happy to use this method!
@@rstoertz Well, enjoy. It's your choice. Why didn't you use this method?
@@creativesolution3 Didn't think of it!
i just drilled my cheap blow gun out to same as the cans plastic spray pin .i put a quick blast of 100psi and good for a few days again because can valve is usualy faulty . good video and a safe way of doing it. also very good at stopping so much waste going into land fills .
Excellent detail extra step appreciated bro thanks. 👍
I’m glad I was able to help my friend 🙏🏽😊 thank you 🙏🏽
I have three WD40 cans that have oil in them and no pressure to dispense it. Thanks for the help with the problem.
I knew this was possible, but I wasn't sure how to charge the cans. Thanks for making this video, as I will make sure to remember it for future reference.
For the low cost of $250.00 + you too can save that 25 cents worth of "whatever" liquid left in a can.
I have everything necessary on hand to do this, including the aerosol cans. Gonna try it today.
If you put air into a paint can th air will solidify the paint th company uses prop and or butane
Not true. Single stage paints (not 2K epoxy or catalyzed paint) cure by evaporation of the solvent, not oxidization. If the can is under pressure, the solvents in the paint can't evaporate. Propane/butane/CO2 is used because it can be compressed into a liquid at low pressures so therefore has more potential expansion energy and the pressurization charge lasts longer.
Hello, I have a change in the way you did the tire valve. Drill your holes the same , but the one in the Plywood, needs to be a little larger . Put everything together up to the plywood, then put the valve stem through the plywood! take two small wood screws and attach the cap to the plywood : when you turn the can upside down into the cap, you will not spray any liquid out as it is now lower than the bottom of the straw !
That is awesome idea! I will have to try this out my friend. Thank you for sharing! 👍🏽😊🙏🏽
@@FixThisHouse Lol, don't feel bad...I didn't understand it either! 😆
Good tip, thank you for the demonstration, and good suggestions for better success.
i have some of these cans and i may try it, thnx. i'll try just using a hand bike pump which is what i still use to keep my car tires up to snuff. it takes a little time but it does the job and a bit of excersize.
2 variables to consider. 1) some cans may have check valves 2) a lot of cans don’t have a nipple coming out. The nipple is on the nozzle. Could probably fabricate something to accommodate those.
Absolutely not necessary. The air pressure will open the valve from the outside. There's no need to ever cut the tire valve either.
thank you for sharing that with us. That is better than poking a hole in the can. I think the paint can nozzle was plugged up with dry paint.
Incredibly dangerous info. 😂 💥🎉
Well done. 👍🏼
I rather buy a new can.
Why dangerous?
I bought a reusable can that you pour whatever into and charge it with air and it sprays again. Ideally liquid co2 would be best to pump in for longer consistent pressure release
When using the protection cap, you need to make sure that the chemical from the first can doesn't interact with the chemical with the next can.
One problem I see if the blow back from pressuring W-D or any petroleum products will shoot oil back into air hose and if you put it on a paint can you will put oil in the paint can and will mess up the paint. I have run into this problem.
Outstanding, very informative.
Great job sir. I literally have five cans like this. I never threw them because they all have alot of product. One parts cleaner is completely full.
Childs play.
I used to refill "flick-flint" butane lighters from the aerosol cans the bulk fluid/gas came in.
Same principal although the lighters used a safety mechanism (in the exit valve) which meant the process of refilling them, was a lot more complicated.
Still, I not only refilled them I also had new flints to re-flint them with too, thus re-used many before they simply fell apart.
Great idea. I like it and might use it on non paint aerosol cans. In the past, I would drill a hole into the side of a dead WD40 can and pour the contents into a spray bottle.
I took your safety tips to heart so I also encircled my house with danger tape, informed the local emergency room, sent my family a mile away and put on a full hazmat suit. Whew that was super scary.
You sir did not do enough, for good measure, you should have contacted your fire department, police precinct, your neighbors, gas company, and any gas stations to warn them of the impending danger
With your overwhelming lack of brain cells, I don't think you should even be using a brand new can. You'll shoot your eye out! Give the guy some worthy credit. Please do share some of your ideas with us on your own video.
What you're all forgetting is it takes 1 person to do it wrong, get some WD40 in his eye then sue his ass off and bankrupting him for not giving enough warning blah, blah, blah. It's the world we live in folks.
First off, this is a silly video loaded with a waste of information for clicks only, designed to keep you watching so he can load up on google metrics to monetize his video. No one is seriously going to spend $35.00 buying crap to refill a $5.00 can. If WD40 gets in ones eye, nothing is going to happen, as WD is not acid and I am a mechanic and have been subjected to worst than that at work.
Great ideas, however, you missed a few important things. In addition, you should go to your city building department and pay the $200 fee to have a permit pulled. Then in a month or two, after it's approved, you should only have the work done by a union member who is fully insured and licensed. Just thought I'd add that, it's essential.
nice idea, now what about the ever clogged spray paint can nozzles?
My late husband would "recharge" his "thing" this way before we *"did the nasty!!!"*
He was a great lover ! ! !
Others should eb careful using this technique. My cousin's friend's brother-in-law knew a guy at work who did this. The knot in his belly button let go and he went flying around the room like a party balloon! Be careful!!!!
Did this the other day but used a 20 dollar cordless Bauer pump used the tip for pumping up balloons pushed down on the plastic tip pumped it worked like a charm I was amazed 😊
You definitely need to have a separate tire value stem for different products. If you have WD40 anywhere near your paint it will definitely ruin your paint job.
Wd40 doesn't ruin paint. I use it to take off tar from the road. It it perfectly safe
WD40 may not ruin existing paint but it definitely will destroy a new paint job.