5 Tips to Diagnose Mechanical Issues: Kawasaki Ultra 310 Jet Ski - 4K VIDEO
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- Опубліковано 28 лип 2024
- Some basic tips to diagnose and address key issues and maintenance items that Kawasaki Ultra 310s Jet Ski owners might experience.
These basic tips should help novice and veteran riders alike in maintaining their skis and operating at peak performance.
I highly recommend you purchase an OEM Kawasaki Service Manual. These are my opinions and experiences.
If you don’t want to do the factory scheduled maintenance, don’t complain about loss of performance. EVERY Supercharged PWC requires maintenance like this, if you don't want the maintenance, get a Naturally Aspirated ski which requires a fraction of the maintenance.
SERVICE MANUAL FROM KAWI: www.kawasaki.com/en-us/owner-...
#jdswaterworld
00:00 Intro
00:27 Overview
01:06 Environmental Variables
02:02 1. Fuel Related Issues & Ethanol
05:43 2. Spark Plug Related Issues
07:50 3. Oil Fill Level
10:02 4. Intake Tract / Supercharger Ducts / Tensioner Assy.
16:02 5. Exhaust Filter
16:55 See Also: Jet Pump
17:52 See Also: Mode Button
18:56 Conclusion - Авто та транспорт
Meticulous maintenance is how you keep machines running with peak performance and reliability and looking showroom fresh. Understand it will cost more in time and money to maintain it that way. For me, it's the only way to go. Thanks for posting all of these videos JD! We maintain our machines the same way!
100% man! I put this together for those having issues- but almost all of those issues are due to lack of proper maintenance! Sometimes components will fail- it happens - but these topics cover the low hanging fruit haha!
@@JDsWaterWorld I totally agree with you! I think the videos are awesome for all the viewers JD. You refreshed my memory with a few items as well! Thanks for posting!!
You are right on the FPO mode, it is downright scary, this is where you feel every bit of the 310 HP…
Hahahaha
Great topics and information, a lot to keep in mind and maintain.
Thank you
Nice video man.. doing a huge fan service for the Kawi riders out there.
I’m doing myself a service to hopefully cut down on the number of questions I repeat the same answer to a million times
Awesome video! My 310 is performing beautifully, however this is all good information to know as a 310 owner!
Good to hear!
Wealth of knowledge - thankyou!
Great video as always.
Soooo good.....always sooo good!! Thanks for posting another one😎👍 Can we do an in hull transducer and depth finder next💪
Haha thanks man! I hate to break it to you but I will not ever be installing a transducer or depth finder. Go on Amazon buy a wireless cordless fish finder, zip tie transducer to your step bracket- boom, done.
Great information JD, thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching Billy! I definitely did not cover everything, but these are some pointers to cover some of the basics
@@JDsWaterWorld Surely will help!
💯 Great steps
Great in-depth video of common power loss problems which you personally haven taken time to help me troubleshoot as well. I hope my issue isn't the fuel filter bc that sounds dreadful to replace. It's probably time for an upgrade anyhow to the new redesign 310!
It’s so hard to diagnose without the ski in person, like any machine. I hope you sort it out and if not- hope you are able to get the new one!
Thanks. Fuel filters can definitely drain performance. All the manufacturers went to the inside the tank style fuel filters. Saves $ in manufacturing. And of course made them all harder to get to! More $ at the dealer. The older 15f had a huge external filter that is easy to change but basically never needs changing. Over 600 hours on my 2005 attests to that. Later model 15f's went to an internal design. But they are very easy to change vs Ultras and STX 160's. Remove the glovebox and you look right down on the fuel pump. Tank mounted filters will not last that long. Kawi Performance offers an external filter design. I have added that to my STX 160s. Not enough hours to say if the filter lasts longer but it will be a heckuva lot easier to change.
Thanks for the comment! Yeah unfortunately with the advent of fuel injection even the smallest particles can destroy the in-tank pump..but the filter itself is like $15 but yea for the 310 there is an access panel (where the kspeed filter goes) but you do need to unbolt the upper deck/ handlebar area to get to it- without stopping to film everything I can have it done in 45 minutes.
Fantastic video……currently own an Ultra LX, but looking to purchase a new 23 310X! Thank you
I have so much fun with the new 310, it has not let me down. Just be aware of all the maintenance compared to the LX
Well done. So many issues we see are from simple maintenance items. But most problems we find are when owners who don't have the service manual have had a play.
it's hard to buy service manuals now, and there is no longer any PDF's for the new skis, they went online only with dealer access exclusively.
Yes, agreed. The first thing I do with every new (or used) vehicle I acquire is to get a service manual. I know the paper version for the 2022+ 310 has been backordered for a few months now on the Kawasaki website.
Hey JD, my name is Ryan and I have a 21 310 LX. The ski is in the shop due to a major loss of power! I bought it last year from a friend that bought it new with ‘thankfully the extended warranty’! It originally hit 67 quickly before the speed limiter kicked in, but slowly faded to around 60 at the end of the season..! I decided to have a well known guy winterize and store it.. I set an appointment well before pulling it out of storage with Flatout ‘which is where it was bought’ just to find out they had no record of my appointment a day before it was going in..!😡 I asked the service guy about adding a SCOM and he said it wouldn’t affect my warranty! I haven’t seen more than 65mph on my dash, but it did run right along side of two friends SeaDoo 300’s! Which they would pull away after I hit that limiter before! Pretty sure the supercharger is shot, but we’ll see see.. The last time I took it out it was normal for about 5 seconds, and then wouldn’t go more than 45mph.. added some fresh fuel from the marina and it did intermittently take off for a few seconds.. Just wanted to get your thoughts pal? There has been some issues with this dealership in the past with friends, so I’m getting a little concerned.!
There is no SCOM for this ski, you must get an ECU tune. The superchargers are not known to fail and last many many hours..sounds to me like you might just need some new spark plugs, fuel filter bag, the pivot bushing greased, and possibly an inspection of the jet pump bearings and belt..how many hours on the ski?? Also I need to know RPM- speed is irrelevant it’s the RPM that you need to pay attention to..
Or watch all of JD's videos over and over.
My service manual its called JD's Water wotld ! 😆
Hahaha well make sure to order the OEM one as well- it’s a must-have!
Good overview. Regarding the catch can, I have a custom version of the old (round) catch can which does NOT vent to the air box. It has a bottom sump with a manual drain that I pump out after every ride (and always has nasty gas smelling blowby) and a couple inches above that is the overflow/vent to the crankcase. This is how it should have been designed, but the manufacturers don't want to burden owners with another maintenance item. I've never had to clean my intercooler (and yes, I inspect it). Also I blocked off the BOV soon after I got the ski (and removed the exhaust filter)
Cool- I would prefer an isolated catch can, but for now will keep the stock setup. I don’t mess with the boost after seeing the many images of detonated Ultra 310 positions (due to lean mixtures) If I upgrade to forged, I’ll run the block off.
@@JDsWaterWorld 300X doesn't have the detonation problem that I know of
No it doesn’t, thought you were talking about 310
@JDsWaterWorld I was seriously thinking about a 2023 310 but I have my 300 set up the way I want it (including high quality silicone coolant hoses) so I'd be out $12k with basically the same ski and alot of work to do...overall I like how the new one looks but doubt I would be any faster on a typical Saturday with tons of crazy boat chop
Have you ridden an FX SVO in chop yet? You should do a comparison video
Lots of good info in this video - but I personally think there is just way too much maintenance to perform on this machine to keep it running at peak condition. I'll look elsewhere so I can spend more time on the water instead of the shop.
Any supercharged ski will have as much or more maintenance. If you don’t want maintenance, go naturally aspirated. Out of every ski I’ve ever owned, The Ultra 310 has had almost zero failures in the 150 hours I’ve owned it with the exception of the wire harness which was a factory defect.
Do you gotta worry about things breaking easier on FPM or do you just gotta do more maintenance checks? Becuase as you said to get the full affects of the ski is to run it on FPM. Which I’ve been doing.
If you have a stock tune, running in FPO will not cause anything to break easier. If you have a tune and are running very aggressively above factory redline then yes you will definitely wear out the belt, pump, and associated bearings much faster.
Great video, thanks! My '22 310x is having issues with dropping RPM but I don't think it is maintenance issue and wonder if anyone else has had the same experience. I have only used the ski at a lake at 6250' elevation after purchasing it slightly used from a dealer. I turn the ski on and put it in FPO mode, do a few passes wide open, and after a few minutes there is a noticeable drop in RPM/boost and top speed. It can result in as much as a 15+ MPH drop in top speed. I haven't changed modes, there are no warning lights, and oil temperatures are fine but the drop in performance happens consistently. With the ski still running I can cycle through the modes back to FPO but it isn't fixed. The only solution is to turn the ski completely off, and when I power back on and put it back in FPO mode I get a few more minutes of 100% output before it happens again. I brought it down to a different dealer close to sea level for service and they couldn't replicate it after 10 minutes or so of water testing. The ECU had the recall update installed prior to my taking ownership of the ski, verified recently by the service tech. It is almost out of factory warranty and I was trying to get the issue resolved before I attempt a KSpeed or Riva tune. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks!
How many hours were on the ski when you got it? Salt water? Did you receive maintenance records? Sounds like pivot bushing to me or possibly just spark plugs. It’s also possible it has something to do with heat soak and the higher altitude… but I don’t know a whole lot about running these skis at that higher altitude
@@JDsWaterWorld Only 14 hours when I bought it and it was used in salt water for those 14 hours. I bought it at the end of last season and it currently has only 25 hours. I did a salt away flush right away to clean it out with an additional hot water flush at the lake inspection station (required to kill possible invasive species). I used it right away for a couple of days and it was having this issue on day 1 and still having the issue now. The dealer that I bought it from said they did an oil change and service check, including replacing the plugs I believe. Since I was able to essentially reboot the ski to clear the issue I assumed it had to do with the ECU or a sensor, but maybe there could be a delay if there was a plug issue? I would think I would see an error code though...the dealer still has the ski and is reaching out the Kawi rep to see if they have any answers or suggestions.
It’s hard to say without seeing the ski, but it’s likely one of the items I mentioned in this video. How old is the fuel? And again- was the pivot bushing ever serviced? So you are going along in a straight line and all of a sudden you start losing RPM..then you reboot the system and you are then magically able to go back to the full rpm ? That’s what you’re saying? It may or may not be related to the ECU - hard to say. There is a test procedure for the ECU- If it was me I’d go down the list of test procedures from the service manual until an issue jumps out…that’s what you’d dealer should do but they’re probably lazy since diagnosis is the most difficult part
@@JDsWaterWorld I haven't noticed it drop RPMs in the middle of a straight line pass yet, but being on a lake with some chop I will run it full out, do some turns and after a couple of minutes of riding I pin the throttle for the next run after a turn or after dropping down to cruising speeds and I have a noticeable drop in power, verified with lower RPM and boost shown on the display. I then stop the ski and pull the key out, sit there a minute with it off, pop the key back in, go into FPO and away I go at full output. It has happened both with fresh fuel (within a day or two of filling the tank) and using older fuel with stabilizer. I'll order myself a service manual as you suggested and start my own diagnosis, just hoping the service department would be able to figure it out under warranty without me having to spend hours going through the possibilities.
If you were to stop the ski, shut off the engine and restart, but keep the key inserted does it do the same thing? Is shutting it off and restarting it what you are saying temporarily fixes it, or just coming down to an idle and then accelerating again? Anyway hope they can diagnose it for you! Almost sounds like the fuel tank vent line could be blocked and shutting off and restarting the engine is just a coincidence. I’m sure it’s something basic, always check the small things first
Most people who own the 310 want to know why at full throttle you lose 2-3 pounds of boost but the rpm stay the same but if you hold throttle down maybe 90% it do it
If you have the stock tune, once you reach full speed and RPM, the tune will govern the system downwards, resulting in a loss of speed, RPM and boost
@@JDsWaterWorld yea it’s weird because on my 2023 310x I will hit 68 easily and I can hold it there it won’t budge if I squeeze throttle maybe 90% but once I pull all the way thru with the throttle 100% the boost drops but the RPM don’t
The only thing that would explain a loss of boost with constant rpm would be that 1) there is a leak or 2) the BOV is bleeding off boost prematurely 3) tensioner is allowing some belt slip due to bushing binding or water getting on belt
16 Kawi 310LX , was running sweet then all of a sudden won't go over 3000rpm , 10kmph. No warning light or code seems to be in some form of limp mode? Can only very lightly throttle upto 3000rpm give it full throttle and it practically ends up stalling. Any ideas ? Cheers
Sounds like you lost your boost. Check all the ducts and make sure nothing popped off, check all the hose clamps, check the belt, make sure your tensioner not seized up. I’d start there…obviously make sure nothing sucked up in your pump as well
Hey JD, you posted a link in another video of yours for the service manual. I now lost the link.
Can you post it again please?
2023 ultra 310 LX.
Thanks
It’s been backordered for some time..but here’s the link: www.kawasaki.com/en-us/owner-center/service-manuals/2022/JT1500WNFNN
It’s Item# 99830-0077-02 if you call your dealer maybe they have one in stock or can check the computer
@@JDsWaterWorld thank you for the reply!! I wanted to let you know, I love your channel and am new to jet ski’s. I am buying my first one this weekend. I was all up for a Seadoo until i found your channel!! Picking up a 23 300 LX Saturday. Cant wait. Thanks for an awesome channel!!
That’s awesome, thanks for the comment! Yes, I need a machine that can take me out in the ocean, ride hard, and bring me home safely and reliably, and the Kawi does the job! I buy the best, and this is the best. The SeaDoo RXPX can be made to go a bit faster than the Kawi with mods, but the ride is a joke compared to what you get with the Ultra Hull. Make sure you keep up with the maintenance schedule and she will be reliable and safe! Feel free to ask questions any time, always happy to help
I have power and rpm loss on my 2023 160lx, up on investigating I found one of spark plug boots was 1/4” up higher than the rest, will update if it fixed the problem up on next time in water. My theory is expending air apply pressure on the boot and with vibrations it will pop enough to disrupt connection, we will see if I’m right 🤷♂️
Huh I mean could potentially be the issue..the 160s don't usually have too many issues at all
@@JDsWaterWorld gas was fresh, intake and behind prop all clear, 10 hours on skis, I mean I very hope it was just that but we will see in a week 🤷♂️
should your HT leads be cable tied together??
That’s how they come from the factory believe it or not…
The k100 is now in a marine grade. Have you tried it or stick with the original?
I’ve bought the marine grade before - the red one has been great and is a few bucks cheaper so I usually just go with that. Just make sure you don’t buy the diesel one by accident- they changed the bottle not too long ago
I have low compression in cylinder 1 I think I blew a ring on my 2017 ultra 310 LX
I’m in Texas and everyone want to charge about 10k to repair I want to repair it but 10k to repair sounds a little silly to me would you know shops in Florida that may be able to donut for less?
I’m in Texas
You’d be better off rebuilding it yourself and having your head machined and bored oversize and installing new pistons. Give Steve at Kawi Performance a call- he’s the only shop in the US I know that I would trust to rebuild these skis.
Yeah I’m going to look into it do you have his info?
My guy… guess what I found the compression to be at? 90-95 is that normal?
Jd, I have 2018 310, which is has code 58, ETV Actuator Failure. I have followed the service manual, checked the relay , which is good. The manual says to replace the throttle body, and or the ECU. Have you ever encountered this issue before ? Ski runs about 3000 rpm at idle and doesn't sound right Thanks
If you checked the relay and it's good, and checked the wiring and it's good, make sure you check the ETV input voltage as per the manual with a needle adapter on the specified ECU pins. If the voltage from ECU is 1-2 volts, than that's normal and your ECU is probably fine and your throttle body is what needs to be replaced.
@@JDsWaterWorld I checked the voltage , and not getting any . So I'm niot sure to replace the ECU, or the throttle body
You checked the voltage with needle adapters with the ignition on and the wire harness clip inserted into the ECU?
@@JDsWaterWorld Yes, and Found the problem. The butterfly in the throttle body was stuck open !! There was corrosion in the bearings on both ends. The local shop removed the actuator, I know the manual says not to, corrosion in the gears as well. Cleaned the corrosion , and reinstall the actuator, and no more code 58, and runs great again I'm going to remove the throttle body every 25 and clean and lube the bearings.
what type of silicon is used, need a lot of upgrade to enjoy this ski LOL :)
Any marine grade silicone and I assume you are referring to sealing the ride place and intake? It comes sealed from the factory but if you swap components you must reapply- or not- it’s not necessary but help improve speed just a bit in some conditions.
@@JDsWaterWorld I think for the first year I will just leave it stock with minor upgrades that does not void the warranty
Good idea- this is what 90% of buyers should do! Look at me as the test dummy- you don’t need all these things to enjoy your ski- but if you decide to mod it out- they are there! Kawis have a massive aftermarket support as you can see lol
@@JDsWaterWorld I hear you I am very impressed and motivated by your channel. I alos have a Mercedes GLA 45 AMG I bought all data on it to do maintenance and All Data was wrong they had a maintenance data on a base GLA 250 instead of the M139 hand built AMG motor. I had to research and find out how to service the rear diff. It has three chambers one takes a 75W140 and the other two took 75W110 gear oil. No where on you tube it lists that. I should have made a video on it. Next I will be doing the break job on it which is $3500 by the dealer. No a difficult job.
So you have plenty of experience with high performance machines. Did you ever consider the SeaDoo Apex? Not endorsing it, just saying maybe check it out to see if you like it. The Kawi is a special kind of buyer- definitely not for everyone. As we’ve talked about, I wouldn’t personally waste my money on any other watercraft, but just because I like something doesn’t mean that you will too..go look at them all in person
Kindly askin for some help,i have 2014 ultra 310 with 100hrs..works and runs great fresh water not salt,but i get heat warning when i go top speed for more then 20sec...and i flush engine and intercooler everytime.What can it be? please
We’ll definitely at first glance sounds like you have an obstruction in your cooling system. Can you trigger the temp alarm when it’s on the hose or just in the water? Have you changed the exhaust filter? There is a filter block on the jet pump pickup for the intercooler and engine cooling water feed lines- all of those lines should be checked, and the filter block checked for debris. You need a new o-ring once you take the rectangle filter block apart- see microfiche. And you need to remove the cooling lines at the engine, oil cooler, supercharger, and output bearing cover and blast them out with air if possible- in reverse of the way they cool. If using air though don’t blast with pressure more than maybe 60 psi. When the alarm triggers are you getting a strong stream out of the bypass port?
@@JDsWaterWorld Thank you very much for so much info,and yes there is always a strong stream on a baypass,exhasut filter wasnt changed here in Toronto is so hard to find a decent shop,and nobody ver has time :)...i will try to find who can help me with so much checkin with hoses and stuff this is my first time i own a ultra 310 so i m still learning.
I would also check the Thermostat and make sure you have the right spark plugs. Also make sure your oil level isn’t too high or low ( should be middle of dipstick when engine is level) and is the right viscosity (not too thin or thick 10-40 works for most climates)
@@JDsWaterWorld i just changed oil 2hrs ago and filter as well,(kawasaki jet ski oil that is) thermostat i dont even know where it is to check.I was on water today for like 5 hrs and no heat warning but yesterday i got like 1 time.I always lift a sit when i pour new gas in it and here and there to cool down engine under the seat.I m very careful with not gettin any debris or seaweed.I jusr hope i can find a solution.I have thoose expensive spark plugs(platinum one) .Like i said i m very thankful for your replys give s me a lot of options and ideas what elese i can look so ill keep posted..was also thinkin mybe i ahould change bearing on impeller mybe that has harder spin and is causin this cause its only at full speed between 65 and 70mph if i go 60 doesnt happen no matter how long i go...but as soon is full speed after 30sec boom,warning.
Well you just have to keep ruling stuff out until you find the problem. So your oil is fine, your plugs are fine. Still unknown is the exhaust filter and there’s also the possibility that the temp sensor itself if bad…do you have a SCOM or tune? Besides the pump bearings there’s also the pivot bushing and your fuel filter- the exhaust filter being damaged or worn out can also affect top speed. The thermostat is on the oil cooler right by where the filter mounts. You’re going to want to check the thermostat because it could be sticking or something- rule it out as an issue. If you have good flow a blockage in cooling lines is less likely..but maybe the lines through the oil cooler are plugged..must check and verify
Code Alrh any idea
What year? I’ll check the service manual for you
What would the risk be just deleting the waste gate with the kspeed plate? Could this shorten the SC life?
Good question. So Kspeed has assured me that using the block off plate is safe, as the relief valve will bleed off the extra boost. My dad, who is a master marine and aircraft mechanic, has advised me against using the plate. I don’t think kspeed would sell a part that would damage your ski, but my personal decision was to leave the BOV and relief valve both in place. A safe compromise is to give the adjusting nut on the BOV a few turns to tighten it up, and keep the mechanism lubed so it doesn’t stick. That all being said, Kspeed does know more about these engines than me..I’m just a random guy on UA-cam 🤪
Ha fair enough. I was bummed once I saw the boost drop off around 63/64. I give tightening a nut a try and get some fresh gas with k100 to see if I can get it back! Seems pretty common and figure the dealer won’t be much help since it still runs good before 63
You have a new 310? If you have the stock ECU this is normal…
You were running more boost and lost it? If that’s the case check all the hoses and clamps and yeah check the BOV. If you are same rpm but less boost it could be a leak. If less rpm and less boost could be as simple as spark plugs or other issue limiting the rpm
I went the adjust the bov rought. Left maybe 2mm for the spring to move. Putting some fresh gas in and testing it out tomorrow!
why are so many upgrades is needed for this ski, Jeez the is $19K and the upgrade is additional $5K
Have you ever watched Fast and Furious? The stock ski is perfect (with some notable exceptions) some of us just like modding and upgrading
@@JDsWaterWorld where should I order mine at I like to get me one for this summer and what are the first upgrade parts should I get without voiding the warranty.
Also that’s $19k list, you’re looking at closer to $25k out the door with tax, title, freight, registration, etc
I know got to pay to play
@@JDsWaterWorld where did you buy yours from
Fuel phase seperation in just 1 week 😂 come on dude 😅
In Florida with the humidity it’s more like 2-3 days actually. It’s a major issue that is responsible for many fuel related problems.
To say I need to check a fuel filter bag every 10 hours is crazy Kawi can take this shit back. That’s worse than diesel trucks😂😂😂
Ask the Kawasaki Engineers…I just follow the manual
@@JDsWaterWorld Why delete the comment? Did you realize 99% of America does not fall into the two extremes you mentioned? I appreciate the shit out of your vids but look at from the avg joes perspective.
If you’re having problems, that’s just one of the things you should check. By the standards of most high performance vehicles changing a fuel filter is not a big deal. I get most people won’t be able to change it themselves- but then they will need to pay a mechanic to do it for them..it needs to be done or performance will be lost…
I didn’t like my first response, rather than edit it figured I’d reword it. Also should note this is similar for all 3 brands…
U lost me at stabil being garbage lol. I can run a generator with 3 year old gas in it that’s been sitting with stabil in it.
A supercharged inter-cooled 310hp Jet Ski is not a Briggs and Stratton. Stabil works fine if used on fresh fuel, K100 treats bad fuel, stabil does not. I have used both products extensively and am speaking from decades of experience