I have a little extra free play. From new mine had barely any freeplay and the boot on the clutch end of the cable would not stay on. When i bought it the boot camd off on the ride home. Only had like 2 threads. And the clutch engaged all the way out. Literally. So, i adjusted more threads out and boot stays on. Next i adjusted at the lever to get engagement in the middle. I have the lever its self adjusted to approxamately center, clutch engagement is in center yet fully disengages. It shifts better now than it did new which is counter intuitive, unless it was slipping just a little. If so it was not noticable. Anyway i have probably 2 nickles worth of freeplay as shown yet its working great now. I am strongly considering going hydraulic though. My old Heritage has a hydraulic clutch and i love it. Im starting to think dealer prep was non existant. The rear wheel, sprocket and chain were not aligned either. After 40+ years riding and as a professional mechanic i noticed it just by the chain noise pushing it off showroom floor. Needless to say its aligned and quiet now. There are a few little things needed adjustment. After 45 years in aviation maybe im being anal but it is what it is. I am going to do the first service this weekend and set the revlimiter up so i can finally play. I can do everything except plug the computer into it. Theyll plug in when they do the brake recall anyway. Thank you for your time. Be safe.
Is the longer clutch arm causing the need for 60% longer throw on the clutch lever also to fully disengage the clutch? Meaning you basically need a one finger lever also to not squish your other fingers?
This second video was super helpful in getting the set-up and the free play tuned. I still cannot get my lever at 5 mm no matter how I adjust the cable or the lever adjustments. It is close but more like 8 mm. Also, the little rubber piece that seals over the cable went flying somewhere when I went to put it back on and I cannot find it. Looking for a new one from KTM but their OEM parts diagram does not show it as a part. It does not exist. Any suggestions?
Looks like an excellent product. I just purchased my 890 adventure R and I definitely feel like the clutch pull needs help. Curious what levers you run. In the past I have run Midwest Mountain engineering levers which are the best lovers in the entire world for a dirt bike but they don’t fit on these big adventure bikes unfortunately. Also like the idea of a Shorty lever for the clutch. Thank you again!
I have a little extra free play. From new mine had barely any freeplay and the boot on the clutch end of the cable would not stay on. When i bought it the boot camd off on the ride home. Only had like 2 threads. And the clutch engaged all the way out. Literally. So, i adjusted more threads out and boot stays on. Next i adjusted at the lever to get engagement in the middle. I have the lever its self adjusted to approxamately center, clutch engagement is in center yet fully disengages. It shifts better now than it did new which is counter intuitive, unless it was slipping just a little. If so it was not noticable. Anyway i have probably 2 nickles worth of freeplay as shown yet its working great now. I am strongly considering going hydraulic though. My old Heritage has a hydraulic clutch and i love it. Im starting to think dealer prep was non existant. The rear wheel, sprocket and chain were not aligned either. After 40+ years riding and as a professional mechanic i noticed it just by the chain noise pushing it off showroom floor. Needless to say its aligned and quiet now. There are a few little things needed adjustment. After 45 years in aviation maybe im being anal but it is what it is. I am going to do the first service this weekend and set the revlimiter up so i can finally play. I can do everything except plug the computer into it. Theyll plug in when they do the brake recall anyway. Thank you for your time. Be safe.
what does it take to convert to hydraulic? what parts do u recommend? TIA.
Den X Magura makes a kit.. google it
Clear, concise and to the point. 👍
Damn good video !
Is the longer clutch arm causing the need for 60% longer throw on the clutch lever also to fully disengage the clutch? Meaning you basically need a one finger lever also to not squish your other fingers?
This second video was super helpful in getting the set-up and the free play tuned. I still cannot get my lever at 5 mm no matter how I adjust the cable or the lever adjustments. It is close but more like 8 mm. Also, the little rubber piece that seals over the cable went flying somewhere when I went to put it back on and I cannot find it. Looking for a new one from KTM but their OEM parts diagram does not show it as a part. It does not exist. Any suggestions?
I use camel arm and the clutch slack is about 15mm
Looks like an excellent product. I just purchased my 890 adventure R and I definitely feel like the clutch pull needs help. Curious what levers you run. In the past I have run Midwest Mountain engineering levers which are the best lovers in the entire world for a dirt bike but they don’t fit on these big adventure bikes unfortunately. Also like the idea of a Shorty lever for the clutch. Thank you again!
I simply cut my OEM levers down to two fingers and add electrical heat shrink. Quick and dirty!
Is there any chance of someone having a video on how to take of the clutch lever to shorten it?
What are any difference between the Camel extender and the AltRider extender, other than the groovy orange?