What the … ?! This is actually a really useful, informative video. No one does this on YT anymore. I actually learned something about the little MAX rather than the usual useless blather. Thanks!
I must say this is one of the best you tube gun video’s I have ever viewed. Straight to the point, informative and thorough. After many pistols and revolvers owned, I recently purchased an LCP Max, did the spring / rod mod and hogue grip (used an lcp II grip). Using the stock trigger (for now) for a carry/ backup gun. Thank you for the excellent info, especially mix and match on m carb and stock trigger spring. I am now a subscriber.
This was a great video loaded with information. I felt like I was watching an old UA-cam gun video. No stupid music and over the top antics, right to the point.
Great video. As mentioned in the comments below, wonderful "hands-on" info. After quite a bit of research, I've settled on the LCP Max as my main carry gun. A custom-made belt pouch holster renders it totally concealable and comfortable. Nothing quite like it. Thanks for the upgrade suggestions.
Good video, lots of useful information. I’ve been a pocket/ankle carry 380 guy for many, many years. I’ve had a majority of the single stack 380’s , so the MAX was a must have. Did the springs and the Galloway Precision trigger, helped quite a bit. Really interested in the MCARBO trigger and hammer spring now. Love how their hammer spring quiets the trigger pull somewhat. I’ve had a ton of pocket holsters over the years. My favorite is the DeSantis Super Fly, stays in the pocket, lightweight, cut for a good master grip and only around 40 bucks. Enough of my rambling, thanks for the vid.
Thanks for sharing your experience! I'll take note of that pocket holster as I am looking for one that will more often then not stay in my pocket. I forgot to mention in the video that the MCARBO hammer springs have have an insert that acts as a damper and quiets the spring noise! Thanks for watching and commenting!
No apologies warranted. I personally always like hearing what other folks are doing for their setups. Going to have to check out the Desantis holster - I just picked up an LCP Max last month
@@scrungus483 Yes, the Super Fly is definitely my favorite pocket holster. It has a tacky exterior and cut so that you can get a good master grip on the small gun. I would be fine if they did away with the Velcro on flap and lowered the price a little. I wore all the tacky texture off of my Super Fly and have been using a DeSantis Nemesis lately, no comparison. I need a new Super Fly!
If you “hook” the “tab” on the LCPs pocket holster to your pocket while drawing it will stay in the pocket. It’s not a great holster but it’s functional. I bought all of MCarbo’s LCP’s upgrades and it functions on another level. Trigger drops from about 7lbs to about 2lbs and it “feels” like the steel guide rod gives a bit of weight to the gun and helps manage the muzzle climb. Totally worth the $100
Good video! I have been pocket carrying mine since July of 2021 when they came out. Love it! And as Carl Malden would say "Dont leave home with out it" I too have done the MCarbo Steel Guide Rod, the HD Takedown Pin & the Extra Power Recoil Spring. To me, the recoil spring has done a world of good.I am able to do the "pocket draw double & triple tap" drills with increased accuracy. You are right about the supplied holster, it works just OK. I replaced it about 1 year into carry with with one from Galco, PRO836B, and absolutely love this holster! Its still in my pocket today. It just works for me! And, with the 12 + 1 configuration and the Galco holster, I see 16.47 oz. Should have done it long ago! I dont do IWB, never really got into it. When I do carry the LCP MAX OWB, I found a nifty little holster from Tactical Scorpion Gear, TSG-LCP2-2 (option 2), it's for the LCPII, and the LCP Max fits in this awesome holster perfectly! Currently, as of May 2024, I have put well over 1000 rounds through this little pistol and I think it will go to the grave with me, along with my Beretta model 85 Cheetah.
My Hellcat Pro and my Walther PPS M2 are my two primary carry options. The LCP MAX is my "you literally have ZERO EXCUSE NOT to carry a firearm everywhere in any clothing" carry gun, because it disappears into even the tightest of pockets. Great gun and video.
I use a Vedder pocket locker. Get the thumb shelf and pocket hook. Works great and is a secure draw. Because it is Kydex it is a little more slippery and can move if your pocket is at an angle or is really big.
Agreed. I got the Ruger LCP MAX ELITE for summer since I noticed that my glock 43x MOS prints pretty bad in my fitted shirts and since I am short and have a larger frame. It comes with a stainless steel guide rod, a upgraded trigger, better coating on the firearm and I put the 13lb Galloway recoil spring in as well. It's amazing to say the least. My 43x MOS usually stays home next to my night stand. I actually just picked up my 43X Mos after not touching it for a month and let me say the weight and size comparison left me speechless. I thought this 43x MOS was small.. Boy when I went back to it, it was like a 1911 lol. (Not really but you get the point.) I always have my 380 on me. It gives me zero reason to not carry a weapon. Even when I have my 380 on me, I still take the 43x MOS in the car in case I need a bigger round. Only time I'll probably carry the glock now is in the winter when more layers are worn and I need more stopping power / penetration, or maybe I'll carry the glock in the summer if I am going to a out doors concert/event where I may need extra accuracy and to hit a target a bit further away with confidence. But I would always have this 380 in my pocket just in case the glock gets too uncomfortable. Love this little gun.
@@cross8215damnit lol I've got my LGS on the hunt for a Max Elite, chances are I'm going to grab a "standard" Max with a stainless slide. I've got quite the custom rust cerokote job on my current LCP, looking for a more durable option, plus a few extra rounds, for my EDC.
Thank you for showing the total weight with gun fully loaded and 1 in the chamber not quite sure why so many videos show just the weight of the gun empty. I'm sure there must be a reason but it escapes me. We carry these things around fully loaded with ammo. No thanks to carrying around that hellcat though as it's amazing how much heavier these things are with just a few more ounces not to mention the size of that gun!
@@f45411 Yeah, thanks, I realize this but to me it would be more helpful to add the weight of standard ammo most would purchase instead of give the the weight of the gun empty. What we are talking about with different grains wouldn't be anywhere near as significant or perceptible. 6 rounds of 95gr FJM in 380 is about 2oz. If you put 1 in the chamber now you are talking 2 1/4oz. Nobody is going to be able to tell the difference even if you were to add or remove an entire round. But you can definitely feel the weight difference between that of a loaded firearm v. an empty one. And when it comes to something like the max with 12+1 it is even more pronounced.
I have the same gun and I worked with a gunsmith to set it up for me. I have long narrow fingers and narrow hand. But thanks to having busted my wrist I don’t have the wrist or finger strength. We went with the lighter springs and a new trigger that the throw could be adjusted for my long fingers.
I have the same parts plus the Galloway precision sigurd trigger in my LCP max. The 13lb recoil spring and enhanced take down pin are a darn good idea if you're going to be firing +P in your pistol, which I do. I also have several uploads on my LCP max and the upgrades that've gone into it. Good video man, have a subscriber, we small guntuber channels gotta stick together. ;)
idk why but to me the stock gun doesn't feel snappy to me and I dont use pinky extension either only get 2 fingers to me it honestly has the least amount of recoil out of all my handguns.
Excellent video, I just ordered the 75th. Anniversary model and will see how it shoots. I also ordered 2, 12 rd. magazines and a IWB holster from Amazon. Hope it all goes well but I will order the MCarbo parts also. Thanks for a great video.
ahh a man of taste, I also have a hellcat osp with holosun 507k, apex trigger, streamlight tlr6, and night fission sights. Just ordered a 75th aneversary lcp max with the stainless slide those are both my carry guns also
Excellent video, thank you. If I may suggest a Hogue Handall Beavertail grip sleeve SKU 18130. You will be amazed at the better feel and it really conceals well.
Very well done video. I bought every part Mcarbo sells and put 'em all in. IMO the most valuable aftermarket parts are the takedown pin, SS guide rod, heavier recoil spring, and the trigger springs, in that order. I went with the lightest trigger springs, just my taste. With the better recoil spring and trigger springs, the Mcarbo trigger itself is not necessary, but I have it in there. What also helps to reduce snappiness is not using really powerful SD ammo, such as the Sig V-Crown. With Remington green & yellow box HPs or Fiocchi ball, it is actually pretty pleasant to shoot--with the heavier recoil spring. I also added a Hogue Grip Sleeve for a Sig P365 for a thicker grip, cutting off the finger groove protrusion. Using the 12-round mag with the 14-round as a backup. The 12 is only slightly longer than the 10 with pinky extension. Switched to a DeSantis Nemesis pocket holster. Stays in the pocket a lot better. Properly set up, the LCP Max is IMO the best pocket or backup gun you could ask for.
Great video. I also have the beefy takedown pin, stainless guide rod and 13lb recoil spring. It definitely makes the gun much less snappy. I also added the Hogue Grip Sleeve and that made the biggest difference. I can now go to the range and put 250 rounds on target with minimal hand fatigue.
I feel that the guide rod, take down pin, and 13# recoil spring are absolutely necessary upgrades for this pistol. I need to try that Hogue grip sleeve for this gun. I have an LCPII in .22lr and put the grip sleeve on it. Really made a difference. I am sure the grip sleeve would help with hand fatigue while shooting too. Only issue is when pocket carrying the rubber sticks to your pocket really well and makes drawing more difficult - but I rarely pocket carry so it may be a good option for me. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I absolutely agree about being too sticky for pocket carry. I also would rarely pocket carry, despite that being the main reason I bought the pistol. Even when I became proficient with pocket carry it just never felt as natural as appendix.
@@Bobby_B. With the little IWB holster I got and the size and weight of this pistol I forget it's there when carrying appendix. Also, appendix carry is so much faster and more repeatable for me.
I was looking to get an LCP MAX to replace my Remington RM380 purely due to the increased capacity. Going from 6 rounds to 12 seemed like a no brainer. I rented one at a range and was surprised how uncomfortable the gun was to shoot. I COULD shoot it and control it, but I would not want to shoot 150 rounds with it. I don't know how you did that. I wouldn't even want to shoot 50 rounds with it. My RM380 has an aluminum frame instead of polymer. I am very accurate with it, and it is 3 times easier, at least, to shoot than the LCP MAX. I really wanted to like the Ruger, but it would deter me from practicing with it due to how harsh of a gun it is. In the end, I decided to stay with my RM380. It is much more comfortable and controllable (with pinky extensions). Please don't let the sad reputation of other Remington handguns tarnish your expectation of this gun. It has never had a failure in 1,400 rounds of ammo, and I have shot at least 8 different brands through it. It has been perfect for me. I'd rather have the larger capacity, but the Ruger is just too abusive. I can't imagine all the after market pieces making it as pleasurable as my Remington.
This is a good video with solid ideas, but it’s also a lot of fiddling with the gun. I have had the Max for a couple years and I rarely carry it or even shoot it at the range. It hurts my hands to shoot after a mag or two and that damn trigger pinches my finger. I usually carry a 365 XL or a HK P30SK. The Max is, for me, pocket carry in a pinch.
Nice review. I did all that plus the Galloway trigger in red and added a hogue grip. Haven’t done the takedown pin swap, but that sounds like a must. Its my daily carry over my hellcat.
@@bryantartus yeah its fine. I’m not out at the range enough to really care a bunch. I’ve only taken it out once to the range afte the upgrades so I’m probably not the best to give a good review of it.
One major improvement that is needed before I buy one.. At least make a regular thumb safety version of the LCP Max in addition to the regular version. Lots of other pistols come with a thumb safety version.. but somehow not the LCP Max.
🐴 feathers! Such an idea as a thumb safety on a tiny life preserver as an LCP is preposterous, there's already a super long trigger pull accompanied by the trigger safety. If you're scared, go 2 church.
I switched all the stuff out as well, and have tried Galloway and MCarbo triggers (though the trigger on my MAX elite was okay). I much prefer the MCarbo trigger (though it’s pricier). It’s not as soft or accurate as the G42, but I love the capacity and size/weight.
If you ever decide to change the trigger and springs, get Mcarbo, hands down way better. I sent the Galloway trigger back. Not a true flat faced trigger. More like 2 blades with a safety in the middle. My LCP Max works great with new Mcarbo trigger n springs. I buy from Galloway but would go Mcarbo on this.
I just installed the Mcarbo flat trigger and spring kit. Looking forward to a range trip. When I fired mine with the factory setup, it really hurt my trigger finger. I think it was a slap back from the recoil? I don't think it was a pinch. The flat trigger feels way better during dry-fire. I also noticed that horrible "twang" noise it made when dry-firing went away with the parts I installed. (I guess it was the spring kit?) This will replace my LCP 1st model as my pocket carry. For strong side main gun, I have the Ruger Security 380, and I have to say, that thing is a total joy. Very little recoil, accurate, reliable, and a great bargain at just $300 retail. I had a OWB holster made for it by Renaissance Firearms (Chip does great work with kydex) and so far, this has been a fantastic purchase. Went from carrying a 44 mag to a 45 auto to a 9mm and now a 380. (Old age and arthritis is the driving reason for the continual decrease in caliber) I do shoot the Ruger Security 380 very well, so I definitely do not feel under-armed. (10 round mag in the gun and a spare 15 round mag carried off-side) along with the LCP Max upgrade in the pocket, with a lock-blade knife and a flashlight makes up my EDC. I plan to add a compression bandage and tourniquet to my daily carry once I find a comfortable carry holster for the two. (I may have to get Renaissance to custom build something for me) Cheers!
Sounds like you got your EDC dialed! The springs in the MCARBO kit have little rubber dampers in them that stops the "twang." I have never had any issues with the factory trigger. I have large hands but very skinny finger so maybe I don't have enough meat out there at the end to get pinched haha. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@bryantartus It feels really lite. Way easier than the factory. It allows me to be very accurate with it now, but in my humble opinion, I think it is just a bit too lite for a pocket carry gun. I still carry my original LCP daily due to this, instead of switching to the MAX. I may try putting the original 15# back in, but keeping all the other new parts in it to see if that balances things out. (Just been too busy to fool with it really)
@@44Mag I hear that! Im strong enough to pull a trigger so making it lighter doesnt seem like the ideal for me. Im just going to upgrade to the Mcarbo trigger and put in a 13lb recoil spring.
“Pocket carry” is getting thrown around a lot. The Keltec P3AT is tiny. Like I can’t even get my ring finger in the grip without the extended floor plate. The LCP is the same way. My Kahr CW380 lets my get my ring finger on the grip, but it’s still smaller than the LCP. This MAX version is growing still. I fear “pocket carry” may someday only apply to LARGE pockets.
I feel the LCP Max squarely fits into the "pocket carry" catergory with its 10 round flush fit mag. Certainly the single stack LCP, Kahr, and some other 380s out there are a bit smaller. The cool thing is with the stack-and-a-half mag of the MAX, its barely wider than the LCP 2 (I have both). Its funny how pocket guns do seem to be getting bigger, but the 9mm carry options are getting smaller. But no one could convince me a P365 or Hellcat is a "Pocket carry" pistol haha.
The Galloway Precision Sigurd trigger is worth the money as well. I have the guide rod and the trigger at the moment. I was worried about the 13lb spring causing issues, but I may snag it and the beefy takedown pin soon.
@@DoctorMeatDoesHousecalls sounds good! Im going to do the same. maybe just upgrade the recoil spring and guide rod before doing anything with the trigger.
The LCP Max is the worst hand gun I ever brought .I did change the recoil spring as you did , but also installed the M Carbo trigger eliminating trigger bite . After my changes the improvements were noticable changing my mind about keeping it.
These already have a steel guide rod. This is all personal opinion: They absolutely need the heavier recoil spring, it's too light from the factory. I won't use the lighter hammer and firing pin spring, there is no firing pin block on these pistols. The biggest issue with these pistols is the trigger ends in two daggers! I've never seen a trigger so sharp. Changing just the heavier recoil spring and the Sigurd or Mcarbo trigger are the perfect combo IMO.
These really should have the heavier recoil spring from the factory, I agree. The firing pin has so little mass on this gun I am not worried about the inertia of it igniting a round should it be dropped (with the lighter firing pin spring installed). Factory trigger shoe is fine for me. Factory recoil rod is steel, but it is MIM (metal injection molded). I prefer a higher quality steel and finish on my guide rods for longevity and reliability sake.
I agree that the trigger is uncomfortable. As far as the sharp edges, I solved that with sandpaper. My other issue with it is the pinch point between trigger and trigger guard when the trigger is pulled.
So adding an extra power recoil spring does not eliminate recoil, it delays it longer. The only recoil impulse being mitigated would be that which is converted to heat from the compression of the spring.
Pretty much. It slows the slide down. It spreads the recoil impulse out over a longer time (I think thats what you're saying by "delaying it."). Ugh I tried to link to a comment but it didn't work. Copying the full text wall below haha. This is my in depth response to another comment regarding recoil. Goes into the energy method and spring-mass-damper systems: Good explanation, sound reasoning, and I agree with some of it. I agree that the slide will return into battery harder causing more muzzle dip. If you had a super stiff spring, or say no spring (like a revolver), all the recoil energy would go into your hand. Subjectively, the pistol shoots softer and feels like it has less recoil. Physics/engineering explanation below - I'll do my best (I'm a mechanical engineer but I may be shit at explaining things - it will make sense to me in my head). 95% sure on this one. If you have a good grip on the pistol, the spring is still the "softest" thing in the system of the gun, your hand, and body. The heavier spring requires more energy to be compressed due to its higher spring rate. Since the same energy is produced by the shot being fired and the heavier recoil spring soaks up more of that, your hand (and body) will see less. At the point where your grip becomes the "softest" thing in the system, like limp wristing the pistol, that is when you would feel more recoil (and also that's when malfunctions occur, all the energy went into moving your hand, not compressing the recoil spring and cycling the action properly). It's a conservation of energy problem but can also be viewed as a spring, mass, damper problem. In this case I would consider our hand and body as the damper as our grip dampens the oscillations or bouncing of the pistol (mass/spring system). As the slide comes forward and the muzzle dips, our grip brings the muzzle back up (damping the oscillations). But our body also acts as another mass in the system. The mass of the slide and recoil spring take up energy that is produced by firing, and what is left over gets applied to the other mass (our hand, arms, body). If the spring is heavier is dissipates more energy and therefore less of that recoil energy can act on the mass of our body. Again, since the spring is "softer" than our grip on the pistol, the spring gets acted on first, that's why I am saying "what is left over acts on our body." It's not as though the pistol is deciding when and where to dump its energy. Just like electricity and water - energy will take the path of least resistance. Another way a stiffer spring reduces recoil is by reducing the speed the slide hits the abutment of the frame. When the slide hits the frame at the back of its travel, there is no more give in the recoil spring and all that energy gets put directly into your hand. To get minimum recoil out of a pistol, ideally, the recoil spring would be of a rate so that the slide comes to a stop before returning just as it touches the frame at the rear of its travel. That sounds all fine and dandy, but that scenario doesn't have enough slide velocity for the case to hit the ejector hard enough to be ejected properly.
You make an interesting point about the compression of the spring resulting in heat, not a lot of people would have thought of that so I wanted to touch on it. Springs are designed to be compressed and cycled - the metal only elastically deforms during cycling - if a spring plastically deforms (deformation that causes a change in the shape of the metal that it cannot recover from) then the spring is done for. I am sure you have bent a piece of ductile metal in your hands - say a piece of aluminum. If you bend it back and forth it will get warm to the touch, and eventually fatigue from the plastic deformation and fracture (the plastic deformation actually hardens the materially locally until it experiences a brittle like fracture). Elastic deformation - what springs undergo converts almost none of the mechanical energy used to compress the spring into heat. If you put in 10 pounds to compress a spring 1 inch (a 10lb/in spring rate), you will get 10lb of force out - none lost to heat. Less than a fraction of a % would be lost to heat energy. So you may be thinking what about rapid cycling of a spring? Certainly there would be the opportunity for more heat to be generated from that rapid cycling. Well, think of a valve spring in an engine. It is compressed and extended 1000s of times a minute - 10s of times a second. The only heat those springs are designed to handle is that of the elevated oil temp. Of course, the metallurgy of those spring is a bit different, but the logic still stands. All that being said - the time when mechanical movement of metal creates heat in the bulk of the material is when plastic deformation occurs. During plastic deformation, grains of the metal are actually slipping past each other, and due to an enormous amount of friction between crystallographic planes and the grains of the atomic structure, it creates a significant amount of heat. Since springs - when operating within their proper range of elastic deformation - only experience elastic deformation - there is almost no heat generated from compression and extension. Spring set is of course very minor plastic deformation that can change the free length of the spring but that is just the newly formed crystal structure of the base metal from the manufacturing process finding where everything wants to sit. This will not cause any excess heat either as it is very minor and happens over thousands of cycles. Anyways - the stiffer recoil spring soaks up some extra recoil energy as it takes more energy to compress it as opposed to a lighter spring, but mostly the change in felt recoil is from the recoil impulse being slowed down. If you actually read this I hope it was interesting - my background is mechanical engineering and I spent some extra time studying and doing research on material science.
@@augiebusch Mine shoots low at 7 yards also. I did a hold over excercise and shot starting from 3 yards then backed it up to see where my POA/POI was. They were on around 15 yards (which in my opinion is too far for this kind of gun). Shooting less than that I compensate and hold over a couple inches.
@@dltz I was thinking about getting the max performance but not sure. This gun seems useless without a proper shot placement at 7 yards. It may be unique to my gun.
@@augiebusch As I said, mine shoots low at 7 yards as well. That is just how the sights are on them - they sights are on a little further out. I have read comments on this video also saying it shoots low at 7 yards. Pretty easy to practice and train around as I mentioned in my last comment. Even if you were to file your sights down to get the POI/POA on at 7 yards, it will be off any distance that isn't 7 yards so you would need to know that and know how to account for it if you're going to use the gun for self defense. Thats part of practicing with a gun for self defense. Also no telling what distance an engagement would happen at (7 yards is the average of a bunch of collected data). Part of practicing with a gun for self defense is getting comfortable shooting it at different distances and knowing where your sights are on, and accounting for distances outside that. Even if you had a red dot on a gun, perfectly sighted in for 7 yards, it would shoot low or high outside of the 7 yard distance. But to be fair, if there is something you don't like about the gun and don't want to use it or train to get used to it, thats your business.
I wish they still made the upgraded disassembly pins with the slot in them, they you had to turn to be able to take them out. They had a design flaw that I really think they could have easily fixed... but they they just kind of gave up on that and just made them like normal take-down pins with no slot on them. (M-Carbo)
The sticky pocket holster I had lost its “sticky” properties after several months of pocket carry. This was several years ago so maybe they’ve improved the product by now.
Good video. I hated shooting my Max with the factory trigger. It pinched the crap out of my finger. Th Mcarbo trigger made it a pleasure to practice with. I haven't messed with the springs. It's quite reliable the way it is, but maybe in the future.
@@donne9768 sounds like a smart idea. I am just going to upgrade the trigger, recoil spring, guide rod, and the mag release spring, and leave the trigger springs factory. I have a professional to do this for me as I have zero experience here.
I just did these upgrades to my LCP Max and your video was of great help! How has it held up so far? I also opted to keep the factory trigger return spring, but I’m having a hard time understanding the function of that spring. Is the reduced power one meant to reduce trigger pull weight or is it just included to increase reliability since other springs are also being changed? Thanks!
Mine has held up great. Been functioning reliably for hundreds of rounds. The trigger return spring will make the take up lighter, and it may reduce the trigger pull weight a little bit. I would argue that it doesn't need to be changed with the rest of the kit from a reliability or longevity standpoint.
Very well put together video regarding the max and the available upgrades for it. I was actually looking for a video exactly like this and you went over basically everything I was wondering about. I just recently picked up an LCP Max and I’m already looking at the Mcarbo upgrades for it, which led me here. Question for you though. Is there any particular reason for opting out of changing the trigger for the mcarbo flat faced trigger other than the factory trigger being good enough? Also, since you decided to keep the factory trigger spring over the reduced power one (which I agreed fully with your reasoning for why), are you concerned at all about potential malfunctions? Have you experienced any since this video or are you confident the mismatch will still perform normally? Is this something to be concerned with? Lastly, you briefly noted that you weren’t a fan of the reduced power firing pin spring because of there being no safety block. Is there any way around this or are the benefits of the spring kit worth the drawback here as far as safety is concerned? Thanks again for the in depth and quality video. Also I audibly lol’d at 9:40.
1. I kept the factory trigger because the profile was fine with me. It was comfortable enough for my finger. The MCARBO (and Galloway Precision) trigger do allow you to adjust out some of the pre-travel - that is the biggest advantage to them. I kept the factory trigger because in this application it makes more sense to me to keep the extra pre-travel so I have to be extra deliberate with the trigger. This is the same reason why I didn't use the reduced power trigger return spring in the MCARBO kit. It made the take up too light and I also didn't want to make it any shorter. It comes down to personal preference and what I view the application of this gun being, along with the expectations of trigger performance I have within that application. Also saved me some money. 2. The trigger return spring should not make any difference in ignition reliability. What controls how hard the hammer hits the firing pin, and how hard the firing pin hits the primer, are the hammer spring and firing pin spring. I shot 150 rounds after I installed these parts of two different ammo types without a malfunction. I am confident that running the factory trigger return spring with the aftermarket hammer and FP spring will not cause issues. 3. I do want the benefit of reduction in trigger weight - the trigger feels a lot better now. To unsure reliable ignition, the reduced power FP spring is needed with the reduced power hammer spring. The firing pin spring will prevent the firing pin from hitting the primer of a round in the chamber in the event you drop the gun. The firing pin is so small and light in this firearm, and I am sure that MCARBO did lots of testing with this spring kit, that I am no longer worried about it. The firing pin weight is so low that I have a hard time believing it will have the inertia required to hit the primer with enough force to ignite a round should it be dropped. Long story short - I thought about it more and I am not worried about that any more. Long winded answers but you asked some really good questions. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching and commenting.
Thank you so much for taking the time to reply to my questions in such detail! I really appreciate it! This helps out a ton in my decision making about what I want to do to my max and puts my uncertainty at ease with some of the options here. One thing I will note you may consider in the future though. I agree with you completely about wanting adequate pre-travel with the trigger, but I still may eventually swap out the factory one with the MCarbo trigger for one reason. The MCarbo not only allows adjustment of the pre-travel (which hopefully can be around the same amount as factory), but it is also CNC machined aluminum and doesn’t have a 3D printed safety dingus like the Galloway does. So as long as the pre-travel on the MCarbo can be adjusted to factory amount, which I’m honestly not sure if it can, then switching over to it might be worth having a sturdy aluminum material over plastic for durability sake. Either way I decide to go, you seriously helped me a lot here. Your extra thought about the firing pin spring put some confidence in me so I might go for the 12 pounder like you did. I agree that the other is just waayyy too light for a gun in this application. Thanks a ton again for replying so quickly and so in depth homie. Much love.
I didn't even know there was an elite model haha. It appears to have an aluminum trigger shoe rather than plastic, and some Ni-B coated internals for smoother trigger operation, in addition to the stainless guide rod you mentioned. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Absolutely! Its important to prove out any gun you buy even if you don't modify it. If you're trusting your life to a weapon it needs to be tested especially if you have made modifications. If in doubt, leave it factory.
Good video and I'll pick up the pin, but I will not change the trigger on a stock gun I'm caring ever again.. And if you ever have to use it in self-defense you'll know why also. And I went back to FMJ and everything I carry also...
The guide rod and heavier recoil spring are fantastic upgrades as well. As for aftermarket triggers for self defense - as long as I shoot it enough to be comfortable with its operation and reliability then I have no problem with it. Any upgrade AT ALL to a defensive (trust your life to it) firearm needs to be thoroughly proven out.
There is no firing pin block, but I am sure it is drop safe from the factory. The trigger has the little dingus inertial safety, and the firing pin is very light and has a rather stiff spring, which would keep it from coming forward and hitting the primer if dropped. Of course with the trigger modifications I did I installed a reduced power firing pin spring but the firing pin is so light I dont think its and issue.
By increasing the recoil spring weight, you'll be increasing the the felt recoil. All the energy necessary to overcome the the spring tension will be absorbed by your hands. Think about it, imagine the spring was so strong that it couldn't cycle the action...where will that recoil energy go? Your hand! The lighter the spring, the less recoil (to a certain point)...but the less return energy to chamber the next round. The heavier the spring, the more return energy. Also, a heavier spring tends to tip your muzzle down on the return, causing you to bring the barrel back up to the target.
Good explanation, sound reasoning, and I agree with some of it. I agree that the slide will return into battery harder causing more muzzle dip. If you had a super stiff spring, or say no spring (like a revolver), all the recoil energy would go into your hand. Subjectively, the pistol shoots softer and feels like it has less recoil. Physics/engineering explanation below - I'll do my best (I'm a mechanical engineer but I may be shit at explaining things - it will make sense to me in my head). 95% sure on this one. If you have a good grip on the pistol, the spring is still the "softest" thing in the system of the gun, your hand, and body. The heavier spring requires more energy to be compressed due to its higher spring rate. Since the same energy is produced by the shot being fired and the heavier recoil spring soaks up more of that, your hand (and body) will see less. At the point where your grip becomes the "softest" thing in the system, like limp wristing the pistol, that is when you would feel more recoil (and also that's when malfunctions occur, all the energy went into moving your hand, not compressing the recoil spring and cycling the action properly). It's a conservation of energy problem but can also be viewed as a spring, mass, damper problem. In this case I would consider our hand and body as the damper as our grip dampens the oscillations or bouncing of the pistol (mass/spring system). As the slide comes forward and the muzzle dips, our grip brings the muzzle back up (damping the oscillations). But our body also acts as another mass in the system. The mass of the slide and recoil spring take up energy that is produced by firing, and what is left over gets applied to the other mass (our hand, arms, body). If the spring is heavier is dissipates more energy and therefore less of that recoil energy can act on the mass of our body. Again, since the spring is "softer" than our grip on the pistol, the spring gets acted on first, that's why I am saying "what is left over acts on our body." It's not as though the pistol is deciding when and where to dump its energy. Just like electricity and water - energy will take the path of least resistance. Another way a stiffer spring reduces recoil is by reducing the speed the slide hits the abutment of the frame. When the slide hits the frame at the back of its travel, there is no more give in the recoil spring and all that energy gets put directly into your hand. To get minimum recoil out of a pistol, ideally, the recoil spring would be of a rate so that the slide comes to a stop before returning just as it touches the frame at the rear of its travel. That sounds all fine and dandy, but that scenario doesn't have enough slide velocity for the case to hit the ejector hard enough to be ejected properly. Don't know if that makes sense or anyone will actually read it.✌
@dltz My thoughts on why you have less felt recoil with the stronger recoil spring is that the slide hits the frame on recoil with less force, so that gives you less felt recoil. The stronger spring will absorb more of the recoil, much like the springs on your car absorb most of the shock from hitting a pothole in the road.
Great video. This gun makes me nervous in appendix carry, would have preferred the hammer not be partially cocked on a loaded rnd with no safety, so I'd never lighten the trigger. Also had several failures to feed when using fully loaded mags but that has gone down over time. The finish will rust if not wiped down after every body contact and wd40 is to light to last more than a couple hours of summertime carry. Love the gun it's a modern colt hammerless.
I agree, that is why I didn't use the lightest hammer spring. I also did not install the lighter trigger spring which makes the take up lighter. Also did not install an aftermarket trigger shoe that takes up pre-travel. Its important to consider modification and upgrades through the lens of your application of the firearm and comfort with the safety features. Also yeah, Ruger needs to get their shit together with slide finishes - they are really bad. Thanks for watching and commenting!
How is this different than a striker fired pistol where the “hammer/striker” is pre tensioned and ready for release just like this pistol, they just don’t have a big scary hammer for you to see!
That pocket holster has that foot on it. When you pull the LCP out of your pocket, you don't just pull up and out. You pull up and pull back so that the foot will grab/hook the back-top side of the entry/exit of the pocket. The holster will stay in the pocket every time. You gave me a little chuckle, watching you draw from your pocket. That holster is not only okay, but I can draw and shoot as fast or faster than most of my compadres that lift their shirts up, draw cross-handed, and have to swing the firearm to aim and shoot. With a pocket pistol and that soft holster, which, by the way, is very comfortable. With practice, you can pull out the pistol and essentially be in the position where the firearm is pointing in the direction that you are going to shoot. With this type of firearm, you are able to shoot at the hip. You can get a round off very quickly. With under 3 yards or less, these pocket firearms are quite effective. I'm able to shoot and hit where it counts with that 1st round from the hip at around that distance.
Yeah this was maybe the second time I had ever done pocket draws. Not good at them at all haha. i practiced a bit more after this and found I preferred the little IWB kydex holster I bought in the appedix position over pocket carry, just my preference. I'm sure many people watching will get a laugh out of my shooting skills, im mediocre at best im sure. i include shooting footage because people generally want to see that included in a "gun review" type video. I don't share that cuz I think im hot shit lol. Im stoked for you that you're so proficient with pocket draws. Its good to be practiced with your equipment based on your preferences for carry. Thanks for watching and commenting!
yeah it's a cool gun, sucks to compete with but it's better than nothing if that's all you can conceal. i like the alabama holster company pocket holster for it. it has a little ledge you can press down on with your thumb to remove the holster on the draw. i tried a sticky and desantis superfly but they both come out with the gun sometimes.
@@dltz I concur with Matthew here, I got the Alabama front pocket holster for my father and its been great for him and I'm about to order one for myself as well since I just bought myself a lcp max yesterday.
Thanks concise and good breakdown on all this pistol can be from my favorite companies, Im thinking about a titanium firing pin as well, Do you not like flat faced triggers?
The sights of the LCP are on at around 7-10 yards. I sighted in my Hellcat red dot for 10 yards if I remember correctly. I didn't really think to match the POA/POI on the guns I suppose it just ended up that way. These two guns are a good "team." I have a larger, more comfortable, more powerful round, higher capacity, an red dot equipped option. Then a smaller more concealable and super light weight option. .380 ACP is the minimum viable self defense cartridge in my opinion. I have also since added a CZ P-01 to my concealed carry arsenal for a larger, more comfortable to shoot option than the Hellcat for when I am wearing more clothing. There are a couple videos on the P-01 and how I have it set up on my channel now. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching and commenting!
what I mean is, is the handgrip similar enough that the wrist bends at the same angle so that you don't have to change that aspect of aiming when switching guns@@dltz
@@rrbearcat ah I understand what you're saying. They have a similar grip angle so when presenting it's not like the difference in grip angle from a 1911 to a glock where the glock will be pointing at the sky. However the size and feel of the hellcat and LCP are so different it requires practice and familiarity with both guns to be able to switch back and forth between the two and be effective. If I was carrying the hellcat regularly, then needed to switch the the LCP, the best thing I could do is go to the range with the LCP to refamiliarize myself with it even though i have hundreds of rounds thru it. Hope that helps/makes sense.
Great video - as mentioned in one comment below, the LCP Max has no thumb safety. This is a pocket carry gun and IMO should have a thumb safety. Because of this I might get the Sig P365 380 chamber with thumb safety. A little heavier but safer IMO. Has any compared the recoil between the 2 guns?
I installed the MCarbo trigger and lighter springs. Polished the feed ramp and installed 13# recoil spring. Took it to the range and it was a nice improvement, however it still sucks. Will gladly continue to use my Hellcat as my EDC .
Yeah, even after the upgrades it's not really a "fun" gun to shoot. It serves its purpose well as a pocket pistol. Not a good range toy. I can shoot it good enough that I feel comfortable carrying it. I prefer how my Hellcat shoots as well but its a bit heavier and harder to conceal on my body type. My 380 range toy is a Beretta 84BB Cheetah. Now that's a fun gun. Thanks for watching and joining the conversation.
@@dltz I bought the Beretta 80x that was released recently. It was a great gun, but man-o-man, that slide was about the hardest to manipulate of any gun I have shot. (And I have owned/shot literally 40-50 over the past 20 years) I sold it at the last gun show. Took a small loss on it, but it would have just been a safe queen. I would like to stumble across an old Beretta model 86 (I think that was it?) with the tip-up barrel.
@@44Mag My 84BB is the hardest to rack out of any pistol I own. Nature of direct blowback action where the only thing keeping the round safely in battery is the recoil spring force and slide mass (rather than a locked breach that tilts). Check out the new Girsan MC 14T. Its essentially a Beretta 84 with a tip up barrel (.380 not 32 ACP)! I have generally heard decent things about Girsan quality for the price too.
What the … ?! This is actually a really useful, informative video. No one does this on YT anymore. I actually learned something about the little MAX rather than the usual useless blather. Thanks!
You're most welcome! I am glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I agree.
Same here actually learned about some useful upgrades.
I must say this is one of the best you tube gun video’s I have ever viewed. Straight to the point, informative and thorough. After many pistols and revolvers owned, I recently purchased an
LCP Max, did the spring / rod mod and hogue grip (used an lcp II grip). Using the stock trigger (for now) for a carry/ backup gun. Thank you for the excellent info, especially mix and match on m carb and stock trigger spring. I am now a subscriber.
Thanks so much! I'm glad it was helpful and I really appreciate the positive feedback!
This was a great video loaded with information. I felt like I was watching an old UA-cam gun video. No stupid music and over the top antics, right to the point.
Great video. As mentioned in the comments below, wonderful "hands-on" info. After quite a bit of research, I've settled on the LCP Max as my main carry gun. A custom-made belt pouch holster renders it totally concealable and comfortable. Nothing quite like it.
Thanks for the upgrade suggestions.
Good video, lots of useful information. I’ve been a pocket/ankle carry 380 guy for many, many years. I’ve had a majority of the single stack 380’s , so the MAX was a must have. Did the springs and the Galloway Precision trigger, helped quite a bit. Really interested in the MCARBO trigger and hammer spring now. Love how their hammer spring quiets the trigger pull somewhat. I’ve had a ton of pocket holsters over the years. My favorite is the DeSantis Super Fly, stays in the pocket, lightweight, cut for a good master grip and only around 40 bucks. Enough of my rambling, thanks for the vid.
Thanks for sharing your experience! I'll take note of that pocket holster as I am looking for one that will more often then not stay in my pocket.
I forgot to mention in the video that the MCARBO hammer springs have have an insert that acts as a damper and quiets the spring noise!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
No apologies warranted. I personally always like hearing what other folks are doing for their setups. Going to have to check out the Desantis holster - I just picked up an LCP Max last month
@@scrungus483 Yes, the Super Fly is definitely my favorite pocket holster. It has a tacky exterior and cut so that you can get a good master grip on the small gun. I would be fine if they did away with the Velcro on flap and lowered the price a little. I wore all the tacky texture off of my Super Fly and have been using a DeSantis Nemesis lately, no comparison. I need a new Super Fly!
11:46
Best video on Ruger LCP Max choices. Thank you!
If you “hook” the “tab” on the LCPs pocket holster to your pocket while drawing it will stay in the pocket. It’s not a great holster but it’s functional. I bought all of MCarbo’s LCP’s upgrades and it functions on another level. Trigger drops from about 7lbs to about 2lbs and it “feels” like the steel guide rod gives a bit of weight to the gun and helps manage the muzzle climb. Totally worth the $100
That sounds light (lbs) for a pocket gun
Yeah 2lbs is too light for a pocket gun trigger@@matthewbeaver5026
I'm going to go watch some of your other videos now. Good shit!
Good video! I have been pocket carrying mine since July of 2021 when they came out. Love it! And as Carl Malden would say "Dont leave home with out it"
I too have done the MCarbo Steel Guide Rod, the HD Takedown Pin & the Extra Power Recoil Spring. To me, the recoil spring has done a world of good.I am able to do the "pocket draw double & triple tap" drills with increased accuracy.
You are right about the supplied holster, it works just OK. I replaced it about 1 year into carry with with one from Galco, PRO836B, and absolutely love this holster! Its still in my pocket today. It just works for me! And, with the 12 + 1 configuration and the Galco holster, I see 16.47 oz. Should have done it long ago!
I dont do IWB, never really got into it. When I do carry the LCP MAX OWB, I found a nifty little holster from Tactical Scorpion Gear, TSG-LCP2-2 (option 2), it's for the LCPII, and the LCP Max fits in this awesome holster perfectly!
Currently, as of May 2024, I have put well over 1000 rounds through this little pistol and I think it will go to the grave with me, along with my Beretta model 85 Cheetah.
Thanks so much for sharing your experience with the pistol! Sounds like you have you setup dialed in. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks for sharing!
My Hellcat Pro and my Walther PPS M2 are my two primary carry options. The LCP MAX is my "you literally have ZERO EXCUSE NOT to carry a firearm everywhere in any clothing" carry gun, because it disappears into even the tightest of pockets. Great gun and video.
I use a Vedder pocket locker. Get the thumb shelf and pocket hook. Works great and is a secure draw. Because it is Kydex it is a little more slippery and can move if your pocket is at an angle or is really big.
LCP Max is my EDC summer carry because when it’s hot we dress down.
Agreed. I got the Ruger LCP MAX ELITE for summer since I noticed that my glock 43x MOS prints pretty bad in my fitted shirts and since I am short and have a larger frame.
It comes with a stainless steel guide rod, a upgraded trigger, better coating on the firearm and I put the 13lb Galloway recoil spring in as well. It's amazing to say the least.
My 43x MOS usually stays home next to my night stand. I actually just picked up my 43X Mos after not touching it for a month and let me say the weight and size comparison left me speechless. I thought this 43x MOS was small.. Boy when I went back to it, it was like a 1911 lol. (Not really but you get the point.)
I always have my 380 on me. It gives me zero reason to not carry a weapon.
Even when I have my 380 on me, I still take the 43x MOS in the car in case I need a bigger round.
Only time I'll probably carry the glock now is in the winter when more layers are worn and I need more stopping power / penetration, or maybe I'll carry the glock in the summer if I am going to a out doors concert/event where I may need extra accuracy and to hit a target a bit further away with confidence. But I would always have this 380 in my pocket just in case the glock gets too uncomfortable.
Love this little gun.
@@cross8215damnit lol I've got my LGS on the hunt for a Max Elite, chances are I'm going to grab a "standard" Max with a stainless slide. I've got quite the custom rust cerokote job on my current LCP, looking for a more durable option, plus a few extra rounds, for my EDC.
Me too. But now its dippin below 65 here so now i wear my 45 cal glock 30. The max is my backup, on my ankle
I really appreciate your explanations. Really easy to understand. Thanks.
I am glad! thanks for watching and commenting!
Great video and well presented information. Have enjoyed the Alabama kydex pocket holster. Not the cheapest but great for pocket carry.
Thank you for showing the total weight with gun fully loaded and 1 in the chamber not quite sure why so many videos show just the weight of the gun empty. I'm sure there must be a reason but it escapes me. We carry these things around fully loaded with ammo. No thanks to carrying around that hellcat though as it's amazing how much heavier these things are with just a few more ounces not to mention the size of that gun!
Different loads/grains have different weight so ultimately just add the weight of the ammo to the gun
@@f45411 Yeah, thanks, I realize this but to me it would be more helpful to add the weight of standard ammo most would purchase instead of give the the weight of the gun empty. What we are talking about with different grains wouldn't be anywhere near as significant or perceptible.
6 rounds of 95gr FJM in 380 is about 2oz. If you put 1 in the chamber now you are talking 2 1/4oz. Nobody is going to be able to tell the difference even if you were to add or remove an entire round.
But you can definitely feel the weight difference between that of a loaded firearm v. an empty one. And when it comes to something like the max with 12+1 it is even more pronounced.
Can't agree more with your decisions with the different springs. Sound advice. Thanks a lot!!!
Just got a LCP Max Elite after carrying the orginal LCP for 11 years. I lool forward to shooting it. I got a viridian lazer and recoil spring coming.
are you happy with the viridian lazer you got? can you tell me if you got the red or green.
I have the same gun and I worked with a gunsmith to set it up for me. I have long narrow fingers and narrow hand. But thanks to having busted my wrist I don’t have the wrist or finger strength. We went with the lighter springs and a new trigger that the throw could be adjusted for my long fingers.
Great video! This is my EDC. I'm going to get all of the suggested parts.
Awesome! It's a great little gun. The takedown pin, stainless guide rod, and heavier outer recoil spring should come with the gun from the factory.
I have the same parts plus the Galloway precision sigurd trigger in my LCP max. The 13lb recoil spring and enhanced take down pin are a darn good idea if you're going to be firing +P in your pistol, which I do. I also have several uploads on my LCP max and the upgrades that've gone into it. Good video man, have a subscriber, we small guntuber channels gotta stick together. ;)
Hi, I saw a video from Ruger that specifies that the LCP Max is not rated for +P ammo.
@@herberar Oh noez.
I'm thinking about buying an LCP MAX. Great video! Thank You
idk why but to me the stock gun doesn't feel snappy to me and I dont use pinky extension either only get 2 fingers to me it honestly has the least amount of recoil out of all my handguns.
My man with the no bullshit review lol love it champ!
Nice video making relevant comparisons of some good upgrades. Thanks.
Excellent video, I just ordered the 75th. Anniversary model and will see how it shoots. I also ordered 2, 12 rd. magazines and a IWB holster from Amazon. Hope it all goes well but I will order the MCarbo parts also. Thanks for a great video.
Congrats on your purchase! Thanks for watching and commenting!
ahh a man of taste, I also have a hellcat osp with holosun 507k, apex trigger, streamlight tlr6, and night fission sights. Just ordered a 75th aneversary lcp max with the stainless slide those are both my carry guns also
Thank you, great information, to the point no BS
Nick in
Arizona
Glad it was infomrative. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Excellent video, thank you. If I may suggest a Hogue Handall Beavertail grip sleeve SKU 18130. You will be amazed at the better feel and it really conceals well.
Very well done video. I bought every part Mcarbo sells and put 'em all in. IMO the most valuable aftermarket parts are the takedown pin, SS guide rod, heavier recoil spring, and the trigger springs, in that order. I went with the lightest trigger springs, just my taste. With the better recoil spring and trigger springs, the Mcarbo trigger itself is not necessary, but I have it in there. What also helps to reduce snappiness is not using really powerful SD ammo, such as the Sig V-Crown. With Remington green & yellow box HPs or Fiocchi ball, it is actually pretty pleasant to shoot--with the heavier recoil spring.
I also added a Hogue Grip Sleeve for a Sig P365 for a thicker grip, cutting off the finger groove protrusion. Using the 12-round mag with the 14-round as a backup. The 12 is only slightly longer than the 10 with pinky extension. Switched to a DeSantis Nemesis pocket holster. Stays in the pocket a lot better.
Properly set up, the LCP Max is IMO the best pocket or backup gun you could ask for.
M-Carbo trigger was definitely worth it for me. Also Talon Grips.
Love the CYA holster because it shrouds the magazine release button so there is no way the magazine will accidentally pop out when it’s in the holster
As I have used the CYA IWB holster more it's my preferred carry method for this firearm over pocket carry. It just works for me!
The mcarbo trigger is phenomenal with 2m71 pounds average and removes most of the slop
did you upgrade the trigger spring also or just the mcarbo trigger?
Thanks for this video! These upgrades are essential.
Great video! Just purchased and figured it would be snappy so looking for ideas
Great video. I also have the beefy takedown pin, stainless guide rod and 13lb recoil spring. It definitely makes the gun much less snappy. I also added the Hogue Grip Sleeve and that made the biggest difference. I can now go to the range and put 250 rounds on target with minimal hand fatigue.
I feel that the guide rod, take down pin, and 13# recoil spring are absolutely necessary upgrades for this pistol.
I need to try that Hogue grip sleeve for this gun. I have an LCPII in .22lr and put the grip sleeve on it. Really made a difference. I am sure the grip sleeve would help with hand fatigue while shooting too. Only issue is when pocket carrying the rubber sticks to your pocket really well and makes drawing more difficult - but I rarely pocket carry so it may be a good option for me.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
I absolutely agree about being too sticky for pocket carry. I also would rarely pocket carry, despite that being the main reason I bought the pistol. Even when I became proficient with pocket carry it just never felt as natural as appendix.
@@Bobby_B. With the little IWB holster I got and the size and weight of this pistol I forget it's there when carrying appendix. Also, appendix carry is so much faster and more repeatable for me.
I was looking to get an LCP MAX to replace my Remington RM380 purely due to the increased capacity. Going from 6 rounds to 12 seemed like a no brainer. I rented one at a range and was surprised how uncomfortable the gun was to shoot. I COULD shoot it and control it, but I would not want to shoot 150 rounds with it. I don't know how you did that. I wouldn't even want to shoot 50 rounds with it.
My RM380 has an aluminum frame instead of polymer. I am very accurate with it, and it is 3 times easier, at least, to shoot than the LCP MAX. I really wanted to like the Ruger, but it would deter me from practicing with it due to how harsh of a gun it is. In the end, I decided to stay with my RM380. It is much more comfortable and controllable (with pinky extensions). Please don't let the sad reputation of other Remington handguns tarnish your expectation of this gun. It has never had a failure in 1,400 rounds of ammo, and I have shot at least 8 different brands through it. It has been perfect for me. I'd rather have the larger capacity, but the Ruger is just too abusive. I can't imagine all the after market pieces making it as pleasurable as my Remington.
This is a good video with solid ideas, but it’s also a lot of fiddling with the gun. I have had the Max for a couple years and I rarely carry it or even shoot it at the range. It hurts my hands to shoot after a mag or two and that damn trigger pinches my finger. I usually carry a 365 XL or a HK P30SK. The Max is, for me, pocket carry in a pinch.
Nice review. I did all that plus the Galloway trigger in red and added a hogue grip. Haven’t done the takedown pin swap, but that sounds like a must. Its my daily carry over my hellcat.
did you change your trigger spring? or just the trigger itself
@@bryantartus just the Galloway short stroke trigger
@@carrow2250 and you feel no need to change the trigger spring? happy with the factory?
@@bryantartus yeah its fine. I’m not out at the range enough to really care a bunch. I’ve only taken it out once to the range afte the upgrades so I’m probably not the best to give a good review of it.
@@carrow2250 ok thanks!
For pocket pistols I like the DeSantis Nemesis pocket holster
Appreciate the video! Nice job!
Best video on the gun out there! Thank you!
One major improvement that is needed before I buy one.. At least make a regular thumb safety version of the LCP Max in addition to the regular version. Lots of other pistols come with a thumb safety version.. but somehow not the LCP Max.
I don't think any of the LCP's have a thumb safety except for the .22lr LCP.
🐴 feathers! Such an idea as a thumb safety on a tiny life preserver as an LCP is preposterous, there's already a super long trigger pull accompanied by the trigger safety.
If you're scared, go 2 church.
I switched all the stuff out as well, and have tried Galloway and MCarbo triggers (though the trigger on my MAX elite was okay). I much prefer the MCarbo trigger (though it’s pricier).
It’s not as soft or accurate as the G42, but I love the capacity and size/weight.
I added the M carbo trigger to mine. Love the adjustably
What’s the difference? Is the reset better?
@@mar1video Shorter pull, crisper/lighter break and adjustable reset.
@@gschlectic - awesome ! That’s what I’m looking for. Thank you for your input !
Mcarbo is great. I have a kit or my hellcat. Great trigger!
😂 so I’m amused at how many of the same or adjacent guns we own. I don’t have a LCP Max so I guess now i have to pick one up. 😊
Its a good little pocket gun thats for sure! I heard all the cool kids have one and keep it in their underwear...
If you ever decide to change the trigger and springs, get Mcarbo, hands down way better. I sent the Galloway trigger back. Not a true flat faced trigger. More like 2 blades with a safety in the middle. My LCP Max works great with new Mcarbo trigger n springs. I buy from Galloway but would go Mcarbo on this.
To light for pocket piece.
I just installed the Mcarbo flat trigger and spring kit. Looking forward to a range trip.
When I fired mine with the factory setup, it really hurt my trigger finger. I think it was a slap back from the recoil? I don't think it was a pinch.
The flat trigger feels way better during dry-fire. I also noticed that horrible "twang" noise it made when dry-firing went away with the parts I installed. (I guess it was the spring kit?)
This will replace my LCP 1st model as my pocket carry. For strong side main gun, I have the Ruger Security 380, and I have to say, that thing is a total joy. Very little recoil, accurate, reliable, and a great bargain at just $300 retail. I had a OWB holster made for it by Renaissance Firearms (Chip does great work with kydex) and so far, this has been a fantastic purchase.
Went from carrying a 44 mag to a 45 auto to a 9mm and now a 380. (Old age and arthritis is the driving reason for the continual decrease in caliber)
I do shoot the Ruger Security 380 very well, so I definitely do not feel under-armed. (10 round mag in the gun and a spare 15 round mag carried off-side) along with the LCP Max upgrade in the pocket, with a lock-blade knife and a flashlight makes up my EDC.
I plan to add a compression bandage and tourniquet to my daily carry once I find a comfortable carry holster for the two.
(I may have to get Renaissance to custom build something for me)
Cheers!
Sounds like you got your EDC dialed! The springs in the MCARBO kit have little rubber dampers in them that stops the "twang." I have never had any issues with the factory trigger. I have large hands but very skinny finger so maybe I don't have enough meat out there at the end to get pinched haha. Thanks for watching and commenting!
are you happy with the 12lb trigger spring?
@@bryantartus It feels really lite. Way easier than the factory. It allows me to be very accurate with it now, but in my humble opinion, I think it is just a bit too lite for a pocket carry gun.
I still carry my original LCP daily due to this, instead of switching to the MAX.
I may try putting the original 15# back in, but keeping all the other new parts in it to see if that balances things out. (Just been too busy to fool with it really)
@@44Mag I hear that! Im strong enough to pull a trigger so making it lighter doesnt seem like the ideal for me. Im just going to upgrade to the Mcarbo trigger and put in a 13lb recoil spring.
This video is hella clutch
I appreciate that man!
I would recommend installing a stainless guide rod as soon as you get the gun, before the factory guide rod has a chance to cause a malfunction.
“Pocket carry” is getting thrown around a lot.
The Keltec P3AT is tiny. Like I can’t even get my ring finger in the grip without the extended floor plate.
The LCP is the same way.
My Kahr CW380 lets my get my ring finger on the grip, but it’s still smaller than the LCP.
This MAX version is growing still.
I fear “pocket carry” may someday only apply to LARGE pockets.
I feel the LCP Max squarely fits into the "pocket carry" catergory with its 10 round flush fit mag. Certainly the single stack LCP, Kahr, and some other 380s out there are a bit smaller. The cool thing is with the stack-and-a-half mag of the MAX, its barely wider than the LCP 2 (I have both).
Its funny how pocket guns do seem to be getting bigger, but the 9mm carry options are getting smaller. But no one could convince me a P365 or Hellcat is a "Pocket carry" pistol haha.
@@dltz yeah, it’s incremental. Every next release is slightly larger.
Kinda like pickup trucks.
Get the ZeroCarry holster. It’s way smaller and can serve as a pocket carry holster. Mine works great
Palmetto State Armory has the stainless one on sale for $299 at the moment.
The Galloway Precision Sigurd trigger is worth the money as well. I have the guide rod and the trigger at the moment. I was worried about the 13lb spring causing issues, but I may snag it and the beefy takedown pin soon.
did you ever install the 13lb trigger spring?
@@bryantartus not yet. Took my time shooting the gun a bit more and learned to control it as best as possible for what it is. I may still try it.
@@DoctorMeatDoesHousecalls sounds good! Im going to do the same. maybe just upgrade the recoil spring and guide rod before doing anything with the trigger.
Very helpful!
Great video, thanks; love my LCP Max!👍🇺🇸
Very well done thank you, very informative
My daily carry and it shoots well. No complaints for what is intended for…. Self defense.
100% Agree!
The Vedder Kydex pocket holster works pretty well, stays in pocket, if not, can be thumbed off like a safety
Oh JESUS !
Great video !
Thanks !
Also when you pull it out of your pocket with the holster you can push it with your middle finger
The LCP Max is the worst hand gun I ever brought .I did change the recoil spring as you did , but also installed the M Carbo trigger eliminating trigger bite . After my changes the improvements were noticable changing my mind about keeping it.
Great video 👍
These already have a steel guide rod. This is all personal opinion: They absolutely need the heavier recoil spring, it's too light from the factory. I won't use the lighter hammer and firing pin spring, there is no firing pin block on these pistols. The biggest issue with these pistols is the trigger ends in two daggers! I've never seen a trigger so sharp. Changing just the heavier recoil spring and the Sigurd or Mcarbo trigger are the perfect combo IMO.
These really should have the heavier recoil spring from the factory, I agree. The firing pin has so little mass on this gun I am not worried about the inertia of it igniting a round should it be dropped (with the lighter firing pin spring installed). Factory trigger shoe is fine for me. Factory recoil rod is steel, but it is MIM (metal injection molded). I prefer a higher quality steel and finish on my guide rods for longevity and reliability sake.
I agree that the trigger is uncomfortable. As far as the sharp edges, I solved that with sandpaper. My other issue with it is the pinch point between trigger and trigger guard when the trigger is pulled.
Great video!
great video! I love my MAX as is, so cant wait to do some upgrades. You cant get a better pocket gun for the money
i use the minimalist holster for my lcp max it does not print i love it
So adding an extra power recoil spring does not eliminate recoil, it delays it longer. The only recoil impulse being mitigated would be that which is converted to heat from the compression of the spring.
Pretty much. It slows the slide down. It spreads the recoil impulse out over a longer time (I think thats what you're saying by "delaying it."). Ugh I tried to link to a comment but it didn't work. Copying the full text wall below haha. This is my in depth response to another comment regarding recoil. Goes into the energy method and spring-mass-damper systems:
Good explanation, sound reasoning, and I agree with some of it. I agree that the slide will return into battery harder causing more muzzle dip. If you had a super stiff spring, or say no spring (like a revolver), all the recoil energy would go into your hand. Subjectively, the pistol shoots softer and feels like it has less recoil. Physics/engineering explanation below - I'll do my best (I'm a mechanical engineer but I may be shit at explaining things - it will make sense to me in my head). 95% sure on this one.
If you have a good grip on the pistol, the spring is still the "softest" thing in the system of the gun, your hand, and body. The heavier spring requires more energy to be compressed due to its higher spring rate. Since the same energy is produced by the shot being fired and the heavier recoil spring soaks up more of that, your hand (and body) will see less. At the point where your grip becomes the "softest" thing in the system, like limp wristing the pistol, that is when you would feel more recoil (and also that's when malfunctions occur, all the energy went into moving your hand, not compressing the recoil spring and cycling the action properly).
It's a conservation of energy problem but can also be viewed as a spring, mass, damper problem. In this case I would consider our hand and body as the damper as our grip dampens the oscillations or bouncing of the pistol (mass/spring system). As the slide comes forward and the muzzle dips, our grip brings the muzzle back up (damping the oscillations). But our body also acts as another mass in the system. The mass of the slide and recoil spring take up energy that is produced by firing, and what is left over gets applied to the other mass (our hand, arms, body). If the spring is heavier is dissipates more energy and therefore less of that recoil energy can act on the mass of our body. Again, since the spring is "softer" than our grip on the pistol, the spring gets acted on first, that's why I am saying "what is left over acts on our body." It's not as though the pistol is deciding when and where to dump its energy. Just like electricity and water - energy will take the path of least resistance.
Another way a stiffer spring reduces recoil is by reducing the speed the slide hits the abutment of the frame. When the slide hits the frame at the back of its travel, there is no more give in the recoil spring and all that energy gets put directly into your hand.
To get minimum recoil out of a pistol, ideally, the recoil spring would be of a rate so that the slide comes to a stop before returning just as it touches the frame at the rear of its travel. That sounds all fine and dandy, but that scenario doesn't have enough slide velocity for the case to hit the ejector hard enough to be ejected properly.
You make an interesting point about the compression of the spring resulting in heat, not a lot of people would have thought of that so I wanted to touch on it.
Springs are designed to be compressed and cycled - the metal only elastically deforms during cycling - if a spring plastically deforms (deformation that causes a change in the shape of the metal that it cannot recover from) then the spring is done for. I am sure you have bent a piece of ductile metal in your hands - say a piece of aluminum. If you bend it back and forth it will get warm to the touch, and eventually fatigue from the plastic deformation and fracture (the plastic deformation actually hardens the materially locally until it experiences a brittle like fracture).
Elastic deformation - what springs undergo converts almost none of the mechanical energy used to compress the spring into heat. If you put in 10 pounds to compress a spring 1 inch (a 10lb/in spring rate), you will get 10lb of force out - none lost to heat. Less than a fraction of a % would be lost to heat energy.
So you may be thinking what about rapid cycling of a spring? Certainly there would be the opportunity for more heat to be generated from that rapid cycling. Well, think of a valve spring in an engine. It is compressed and extended 1000s of times a minute - 10s of times a second. The only heat those springs are designed to handle is that of the elevated oil temp. Of course, the metallurgy of those spring is a bit different, but the logic still stands.
All that being said - the time when mechanical movement of metal creates heat in the bulk of the material is when plastic deformation occurs. During plastic deformation, grains of the metal are actually slipping past each other, and due to an enormous amount of friction between crystallographic planes and the grains of the atomic structure, it creates a significant amount of heat.
Since springs - when operating within their proper range of elastic deformation - only experience elastic deformation - there is almost no heat generated from compression and extension. Spring set is of course very minor plastic deformation that can change the free length of the spring but that is just the newly formed crystal structure of the base metal from the manufacturing process finding where everything wants to sit. This will not cause any excess heat either as it is very minor and happens over thousands of cycles.
Anyways - the stiffer recoil spring soaks up some extra recoil energy as it takes more energy to compress it as opposed to a lighter spring, but mostly the change in felt recoil is from the recoil impulse being slowed down.
If you actually read this I hope it was interesting - my background is mechanical engineering and I spent some extra time studying and doing research on material science.
Yep, use the stock trigger spring. The one in the kit isn't recommended for lcp max (can cause malfunctions)
Good video. The max I have shoots 4” low from a vice grip. Crazy
At what distance? It seems the poi/poa on these pistols is a little bit further out than it should be.
@@dltz 7 yards
@@augiebusch Mine shoots low at 7 yards also. I did a hold over excercise and shot starting from 3 yards then backed it up to see where my POA/POI was. They were on around 15 yards (which in my opinion is too far for this kind of gun). Shooting less than that I compensate and hold over a couple inches.
@@dltz I was thinking about getting the max performance but not sure. This gun seems useless without a proper shot placement at 7 yards. It may be unique to my gun.
@@augiebusch As I said, mine shoots low at 7 yards as well. That is just how the sights are on them - they sights are on a little further out. I have read comments on this video also saying it shoots low at 7 yards. Pretty easy to practice and train around as I mentioned in my last comment. Even if you were to file your sights down to get the POI/POA on at 7 yards, it will be off any distance that isn't 7 yards so you would need to know that and know how to account for it if you're going to use the gun for self defense. Thats part of practicing with a gun for self defense. Also no telling what distance an engagement would happen at (7 yards is the average of a bunch of collected data). Part of practicing with a gun for self defense is getting comfortable shooting it at different distances and knowing where your sights are on, and accounting for distances outside that. Even if you had a red dot on a gun, perfectly sighted in for 7 yards, it would shoot low or high outside of the 7 yard distance. But to be fair, if there is something you don't like about the gun and don't want to use it or train to get used to it, thats your business.
I wish they still made the upgraded disassembly pins with the slot in them, they you had to turn to be able to take them out. They had a design flaw that I really think they could have easily fixed... but they they just kind of gave up on that and just made them like normal take-down pins with no slot on them. (M-Carbo)
I have one of the slot headed ones in my LCP II chambered in 22lr. I liked that design as well!
The original lcp will also fit in the CYA holster.
The sticky pocket holster I had lost its “sticky” properties after several months of pocket carry. This was several years ago so maybe they’ve improved the product by now.
If it's an actual Sticky holster, you can wash them and restore the stickiness easily.
Thx, didn’t know that.
I love the sticky
Good video. I hated shooting my Max with the factory trigger. It pinched the crap out of my finger. Th Mcarbo trigger made it a pleasure to practice with. I haven't messed with the springs. It's quite reliable the way it is, but maybe in the future.
are you still happy with the factory trigger springs. I got the Mcarbo trigger but on the fence about changing the springs.
@@bryantartus I'm keeping the factory springs for now. As my primary carry weapon, I just don't want to risk reliability.
@@donne9768 sounds like a smart idea. I am just going to upgrade the trigger, recoil spring, guide rod, and the mag release spring, and leave the trigger springs factory. I have a professional to do this for me as I have zero experience here.
Thanks for the great info!
I just did these upgrades to my LCP Max and your video was of great help! How has it held up so far? I also opted to keep the factory trigger return spring, but I’m having a hard time understanding the function of that spring. Is the reduced power one meant to reduce trigger pull weight or is it just included to increase reliability since other springs are also being changed? Thanks!
Mine has held up great. Been functioning reliably for hundreds of rounds. The trigger return spring will make the take up lighter, and it may reduce the trigger pull weight a little bit. I would argue that it doesn't need to be changed with the rest of the kit from a reliability or longevity standpoint.
Great video just bought one great information
Very well put together video regarding the max and the available upgrades for it. I was actually looking for a video exactly like this and you went over basically everything I was wondering about. I just recently picked up an LCP Max and I’m already looking at the Mcarbo upgrades for it, which led me here.
Question for you though. Is there any particular reason for opting out of changing the trigger for the mcarbo flat faced trigger other than the factory trigger being good enough? Also, since you decided to keep the factory trigger spring over the reduced power one (which I agreed fully with your reasoning for why), are you concerned at all about potential malfunctions? Have you experienced any since this video or are you confident the mismatch will still perform normally? Is this something to be concerned with?
Lastly, you briefly noted that you weren’t a fan of the reduced power firing pin spring because of there being no safety block. Is there any way around this or are the benefits of the spring kit worth the drawback here as far as safety is concerned?
Thanks again for the in depth and quality video. Also I audibly lol’d at 9:40.
1. I kept the factory trigger because the profile was fine with me. It was comfortable enough for my finger. The MCARBO (and Galloway Precision) trigger do allow you to adjust out some of the pre-travel - that is the biggest advantage to them. I kept the factory trigger because in this application it makes more sense to me to keep the extra pre-travel so I have to be extra deliberate with the trigger. This is the same reason why I didn't use the reduced power trigger return spring in the MCARBO kit. It made the take up too light and I also didn't want to make it any shorter. It comes down to personal preference and what I view the application of this gun being, along with the expectations of trigger performance I have within that application. Also saved me some money.
2. The trigger return spring should not make any difference in ignition reliability. What controls how hard the hammer hits the firing pin, and how hard the firing pin hits the primer, are the hammer spring and firing pin spring. I shot 150 rounds after I installed these parts of two different ammo types without a malfunction. I am confident that running the factory trigger return spring with the aftermarket hammer and FP spring will not cause issues.
3. I do want the benefit of reduction in trigger weight - the trigger feels a lot better now. To unsure reliable ignition, the reduced power FP spring is needed with the reduced power hammer spring. The firing pin spring will prevent the firing pin from hitting the primer of a round in the chamber in the event you drop the gun. The firing pin is so small and light in this firearm, and I am sure that MCARBO did lots of testing with this spring kit, that I am no longer worried about it. The firing pin weight is so low that I have a hard time believing it will have the inertia required to hit the primer with enough force to ignite a round should it be dropped. Long story short - I thought about it more and I am not worried about that any more.
Long winded answers but you asked some really good questions. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching and commenting.
Thank you so much for taking the time to reply to my questions in such detail! I really appreciate it! This helps out a ton in my decision making about what I want to do to my max and puts my uncertainty at ease with some of the options here.
One thing I will note you may consider in the future though. I agree with you completely about wanting adequate pre-travel with the trigger, but I still may eventually swap out the factory one with the MCarbo trigger for one reason.
The MCarbo not only allows adjustment of the pre-travel (which hopefully can be around the same amount as factory), but it is also CNC machined aluminum and doesn’t have a 3D printed safety dingus like the Galloway does.
So as long as the pre-travel on the MCarbo can be adjusted to factory amount, which I’m honestly not sure if it can, then switching over to it might be worth having a sturdy aluminum material over plastic for durability sake.
Either way I decide to go, you seriously helped me a lot here. Your extra thought about the firing pin spring put some confidence in me so I might go for the 12 pounder like you did. I agree that the other is just waayyy too light for a gun in this application.
Thanks a ton again for replying so quickly and so in depth homie. Much love.
A great after-market part would be an all metal lower reciever frame, with wood grips...lol
Keep an eye on yours. My trigger bar came off the trigger pivot. Waiting for Ruger to respond.
Good to know. wonder why it came off. It's pretty easy to pull the fire control unit and reattach that.
Nice little gun 🤙🏽🤙🏽
I've been pleased with it! If you want decent capacity and firepower in the smallest and lightest package... I think this is it!
Great video, but I was wondering if the "Elite" version includes any of these upgrades. I believe just the SS guide rod right?
I didn't even know there was an elite model haha. It appears to have an aluminum trigger shoe rather than plastic, and some Ni-B coated internals for smoother trigger operation, in addition to the stainless guide rod you mentioned. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I know the elite comes with a 12rd mag and heard there was some slight internal work and different trigger. I’ve added these part minus the trigger
FYI newbies once you start messing with the trigger you're inviting light primer strikes.
Absolutely! Its important to prove out any gun you buy even if you don't modify it. If you're trusting your life to a weapon it needs to be tested especially if you have made modifications. If in doubt, leave it factory.
Love everything
Good video and I'll pick up the pin, but I will not change the trigger on a stock gun I'm caring ever again.. And if you ever have to use it in self-defense you'll know why also. And I went back to FMJ and everything I carry also...
The guide rod and heavier recoil spring are fantastic upgrades as well. As for aftermarket triggers for self defense - as long as I shoot it enough to be comfortable with its operation and reliability then I have no problem with it. Any upgrade AT ALL to a defensive (trust your life to it) firearm needs to be thoroughly proven out.
just curious, why did you go back t FMJ? When I used flat head bullets, I had many failures to fire (malfunctions) on the LCP Max.
Nice technical video! Is the LCP Max drop safe (firing pin block)? Subscribed.
There is no firing pin block, but I am sure it is drop safe from the factory. The trigger has the little dingus inertial safety, and the firing pin is very light and has a rather stiff spring, which would keep it from coming forward and hitting the primer if dropped. Of course with the trigger modifications I did I installed a reduced power firing pin spring but the firing pin is so light I dont think its and issue.
By increasing the recoil spring weight, you'll be increasing the the felt recoil. All the energy necessary to overcome the the spring tension will be absorbed by your hands. Think about it, imagine the spring was so strong that it couldn't cycle the action...where will that recoil energy go? Your hand! The lighter the spring, the less recoil (to a certain point)...but the less return energy to chamber the next round. The heavier the spring, the more return energy. Also, a heavier spring tends to tip your muzzle down on the return, causing you to bring the barrel back up to the target.
Good explanation, sound reasoning, and I agree with some of it. I agree that the slide will return into battery harder causing more muzzle dip. If you had a super stiff spring, or say no spring (like a revolver), all the recoil energy would go into your hand. Subjectively, the pistol shoots softer and feels like it has less recoil. Physics/engineering explanation below - I'll do my best (I'm a mechanical engineer but I may be shit at explaining things - it will make sense to me in my head). 95% sure on this one.
If you have a good grip on the pistol, the spring is still the "softest" thing in the system of the gun, your hand, and body. The heavier spring requires more energy to be compressed due to its higher spring rate. Since the same energy is produced by the shot being fired and the heavier recoil spring soaks up more of that, your hand (and body) will see less. At the point where your grip becomes the "softest" thing in the system, like limp wristing the pistol, that is when you would feel more recoil (and also that's when malfunctions occur, all the energy went into moving your hand, not compressing the recoil spring and cycling the action properly).
It's a conservation of energy problem but can also be viewed as a spring, mass, damper problem. In this case I would consider our hand and body as the damper as our grip dampens the oscillations or bouncing of the pistol (mass/spring system). As the slide comes forward and the muzzle dips, our grip brings the muzzle back up (damping the oscillations). But our body also acts as another mass in the system. The mass of the slide and recoil spring take up energy that is produced by firing, and what is left over gets applied to the other mass (our hand, arms, body). If the spring is heavier is dissipates more energy and therefore less of that recoil energy can act on the mass of our body. Again, since the spring is "softer" than our grip on the pistol, the spring gets acted on first, that's why I am saying "what is left over acts on our body." It's not as though the pistol is deciding when and where to dump its energy. Just like electricity and water - energy will take the path of least resistance.
Another way a stiffer spring reduces recoil is by reducing the speed the slide hits the abutment of the frame. When the slide hits the frame at the back of its travel, there is no more give in the recoil spring and all that energy gets put directly into your hand.
To get minimum recoil out of a pistol, ideally, the recoil spring would be of a rate so that the slide comes to a stop before returning just as it touches the frame at the rear of its travel. That sounds all fine and dandy, but that scenario doesn't have enough slide velocity for the case to hit the ejector hard enough to be ejected properly.
Don't know if that makes sense or anyone will actually read it.✌
@@dltz I read it. Solid response. Thanks.
@dltz My thoughts on why you have less felt recoil with the stronger recoil spring is that the slide hits the frame on recoil with less force, so that gives you less felt recoil. The stronger spring will absorb more of the recoil, much like the springs on your car absorb most of the shock from hitting a pothole in the road.
@@Bellboy40 good explanation. I believe that's exactly what's happening. And that's certainly how it feels in my hand.
Have you had any rust issues with yours? I had noticed a bit on the slide without much usage
Great video. This gun makes me nervous in appendix carry, would have preferred the hammer not be partially cocked on a loaded rnd with no safety, so I'd never lighten the trigger. Also had several failures to feed when using fully loaded mags but that has gone down over time. The finish will rust if not wiped down after every body contact and wd40 is to light to last more than a couple hours of summertime carry. Love the gun it's a modern colt hammerless.
I agree, that is why I didn't use the lightest hammer spring. I also did not install the lighter trigger spring which makes the take up lighter. Also did not install an aftermarket trigger shoe that takes up pre-travel. Its important to consider modification and upgrades through the lens of your application of the firearm and comfort with the safety features.
Also yeah, Ruger needs to get their shit together with slide finishes - they are really bad.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
How is this different than a striker fired pistol where the “hammer/striker” is pre tensioned and ready for release just like this pistol, they just don’t have a big scary hammer for you to see!
@foshizzle4074 It's not much different unless the striker pistol has a safety otherwise it's similar .
Wd40 is not for guns bro. Use Ballistol
I wonder if the 75th anniversary would have already upgraded some of these mods
Same here. Hellcat and lcp Max.
Andy Bernard reviews the LCP Max…
That pocket holster has that foot on it. When you pull the LCP out of your pocket, you don't just pull up and out. You pull up and pull back so that the foot will grab/hook the back-top side of the entry/exit of the pocket. The holster will stay in the pocket every time.
You gave me a little chuckle, watching you draw from your pocket.
That holster is not only okay, but I can draw and shoot as fast or faster than most of my compadres that lift their shirts up, draw cross-handed, and have to swing the firearm to aim and shoot.
With a pocket pistol and that soft holster, which, by the way, is very comfortable. With practice, you can pull out the pistol and essentially be in the position where the firearm is pointing in the direction that you are going to shoot. With this type of firearm, you are able to shoot at the hip. You can get a round off very quickly. With under 3 yards or less, these pocket firearms are quite effective.
I'm able to shoot and hit where it counts with that 1st round from the hip at around that distance.
Yeah this was maybe the second time I had ever done pocket draws. Not good at them at all haha. i practiced a bit more after this and found I preferred the little IWB kydex holster I bought in the appedix position over pocket carry, just my preference. I'm sure many people watching will get a laugh out of my shooting skills, im mediocre at best im sure. i include shooting footage because people generally want to see that included in a "gun review" type video. I don't share that cuz I think im hot shit lol.
Im stoked for you that you're so proficient with pocket draws. Its good to be practiced with your equipment based on your preferences for carry.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
yeah it's a cool gun, sucks to compete with but it's better than nothing if that's all you can conceal. i like the alabama holster company pocket holster for it. it has a little ledge you can press down on with your thumb to remove the holster on the draw. i tried a sticky and desantis superfly but they both come out with the gun sometimes.
I'll have to check out the Alabama Holster Company option! Thanks for commenting.
@@dltz I concur with Matthew here, I got the Alabama front pocket holster for my father and its been great for him and I'm about to order one for myself as well since I just bought myself a lcp max yesterday.
Vedder has the same in their Pocket Locker holster...but $50 is too much, in my opinion.
Thanks concise and good breakdown on all this pistol can be from my favorite companies, Im thinking about a titanium firing pin as well, Do you not like flat faced triggers?
I do like flat faced triggers. The stock trigger is flat enough for me in this case. The profile where my finger goes is comfortable.
Thanks for answer @@dltz
Is the point of aim of your 2 carry guns different? Is the hellcat a good match for the LCP and vice versa when you want something bigger or smaller?
The sights of the LCP are on at around 7-10 yards. I sighted in my Hellcat red dot for 10 yards if I remember correctly. I didn't really think to match the POA/POI on the guns I suppose it just ended up that way.
These two guns are a good "team." I have a larger, more comfortable, more powerful round, higher capacity, an red dot equipped option. Then a smaller more concealable and super light weight option. .380 ACP is the minimum viable self defense cartridge in my opinion.
I have also since added a CZ P-01 to my concealed carry arsenal for a larger, more comfortable to shoot option than the Hellcat for when I am wearing more clothing. There are a couple videos on the P-01 and how I have it set up on my channel now.
Hope this helps. Thanks for watching and commenting!
what I mean is, is the handgrip similar enough that the wrist bends at the same angle so that you don't have to change that aspect of aiming when switching guns@@dltz
@@rrbearcat ah I understand what you're saying. They have a similar grip angle so when presenting it's not like the difference in grip angle from a 1911 to a glock where the glock will be pointing at the sky. However the size and feel of the hellcat and LCP are so different it requires practice and familiarity with both guns to be able to switch back and forth between the two and be effective. If I was carrying the hellcat regularly, then needed to switch the the LCP, the best thing I could do is go to the range with the LCP to refamiliarize myself with it even though i have hundreds of rounds thru it. Hope that helps/makes sense.
Great video - as mentioned in one comment below, the LCP Max has no thumb safety. This is a pocket carry gun and IMO should have a thumb safety. Because of this I might get the Sig P365 380 chamber with thumb safety. A little heavier but safer IMO. Has any compared the recoil between the 2 guns?
I installed the MCarbo trigger and lighter springs. Polished the feed ramp and installed 13# recoil spring. Took it to the range and it was a nice improvement, however it still sucks. Will gladly continue to use my Hellcat as my EDC .
Yeah, even after the upgrades it's not really a "fun" gun to shoot. It serves its purpose well as a pocket pistol. Not a good range toy. I can shoot it good enough that I feel comfortable carrying it. I prefer how my Hellcat shoots as well but its a bit heavier and harder to conceal on my body type. My 380 range toy is a Beretta 84BB Cheetah. Now that's a fun gun. Thanks for watching and joining the conversation.
@@dltz I bought the Beretta 80x that was released recently. It was a great gun, but man-o-man, that slide was about the hardest to manipulate of any gun I have shot. (And I have owned/shot literally 40-50 over the past 20 years)
I sold it at the last gun show. Took a small loss on it, but it would have just been a safe queen. I would like to stumble across an old Beretta model 86 (I think that was it?) with the tip-up barrel.
@@44Mag My 84BB is the hardest to rack out of any pistol I own. Nature of direct blowback action where the only thing keeping the round safely in battery is the recoil spring force and slide mass (rather than a locked breach that tilts). Check out the new Girsan MC 14T. Its essentially a Beretta 84 with a tip up barrel (.380 not 32 ACP)! I have generally heard decent things about Girsan quality for the price too.
I LUV MCARBO but I would NOT change anything from the factory trigger in any of my Carry Guns....
Keeping it factory is the best way to ensure reliability and makes a lot of sense for carry guns!
Where's the link for the Springfield review?
ua-cam.com/video/sygQC89tG4c/v-deo.html
Also here is a video of the porting I recently did to it:
ua-cam.com/video/XKOpx6JJ2dg/v-deo.html