I never tried Klotz oil. I been using Lucas 2 stroke oil mix. I mix it for my banshee, dirt bikes,chainsaw, leaf blower,and RC plane. I’ve had really good luck with it. But I still wanted to check your review on Klotz. Good video. thank you
I use Klotz Techniplate in my 2009 yz250. Run it hard and have zero buildup and have only had 2 bad plugs in that time span. Those were on initial break in.
i agree on the cast pistons usually not hurting the cylinders but i run forged because cast pistons are the only kind i ever had break and they get pieces inthe bottom end some times when they di break thats just my philosophy on pistons on 2 strokes i agree with yours too though
I use Klotz n my 90 CR 125 not a problem at all also run KLOTS n my bass boat that has a Mercury shirt shaft 280 n been running it since 99 still no problems at all best oil out there just MY OPINION
I just bought me and my son a couple of yz’s both 1997 125&250. What would be the best oil and ratio in your opinion just to putt around. We are new to the sport and would probably not be in 4th gear that much?
I believe that Klotz recommends their KL-302 2-cycle Motorcycle Techniplate as their cleanest burning oil. It is a very good oil that is recommended for mix ratios between 32:1 up to 50:1. If you're in the racing business where teardowns are very routine then the dirtier oils are acceptable. The R-50 is recommended for power valve engines but it's just not a clean burning oil.
I ran this on an extremely highly modified ported Genuine Buddy 50 scooter and holy sh*t it made a big difference. Use 40 or 50:1 cause it’s a thick oil. To keep this oil burning you have to ride your scooter like a maniac wide open throttle trust me it works. I’m an engine builder
Not in the bike game anymore body is to beat and broken these days but ive been running this stuff in all my saws for years and they all seem to love it
Picked up a 99 ktm 250. Always used 927 or dominator, I’ve heard people talk about klotz ever since I got my first 2 stroke. I’m going to try it out because I want to see if it’s all hyped up or actually as good as people claim. I’ll update after 2 months of use.
I got a few gallons of for my detroit 8v92 2 stroke v8, i cut it with amsoil dominator 2t so i get sae 40w pure 2 stroke oil. Its not cheap though but works great.
i run benoil what would be the advantages to runing this vs benoil? im not very oil savy i do 40/1 with race gas and benoil i both my yz250s i am interested in maybe switching to this
Only real advantage is that the R50 will burn a bit cleaner than Benoil, and also R50 won’t separate at lower temps (if thats a factor for you) like your castor oil will. Basically R50 is like a engineered synthetic version of castor oil
I'm running beanol in my cr80. Seems great but ran a few drag races with my buddy when it was below klots's recommended outside air temp of 35. It was 29. Wonder what this does
Yup, very true. The R50 is a very close equivalent to bean oil in its properties. In faster revving smaller engines (125’s) I’ve been running Benol by Klotz
You may try running a tcw3 full synthetic that's a lower flashpoint....... But much more of it. That will protect it and give a very good seal and compression/longevity. My 17 YZ250 kicked over 232~233 psi when it was new after some run in. Almost 50 hours on the meter(yes haven't rode that much overall) and I just recently checked it at 230 PSI on the same exact compression gauge. That tells me there's practically no wear. And the butt dyno definitely says that the power is still all there. Too much for my lightweight these days truthfully. Most of the hours are hard running on the dunes and then the track..... And then some on trails. I haven't fouled a single plug since I got the bike new. It doesn't spit out oil out the silencer or stutter and load up even if off the pipe for a while. And I'm running 28:1 of the oil mentioned already. Ive ran that ratio the whole time and the bike makes tons of power and runs incredibly strong throughout. It had 50 pilot jet stock from factory which was way too rich. I think that's Yamaha trying to cover their high-compression engine with super rich pilot to try and stop pinging. For the Yzs I think it's wise to run at least 20% 110. But once I went way down on the pilot that problem went away. I run 50/50 premium non ethanol and 110. I figured a little bit of overkill will at least store good for when it's not in use. And it has. I haven't seen what the internals look like but at least my compression gauge is telling me that it's practically the same compression after almost 50 hours on the meter. I think more oil content and a lower flashpoint is good combination for power and longevity. But I believe in more oil in 2 strokes in general. I'm not sure how R-50 would run at that ratio. It also seems like there's tons of people that just don't know what they are doing so all the info is mixed. If the jetting is off.... It doesn't matter what someone does. Or if they're compression is low and it's worn out..... Everything they say is going to be off and false because it's based off of worn-out low compression 2 stroke. I believe they need to get way leaner if they're very low on compression to keep them running. Not that someone we should do that..... But there's probably many that end up doing something like that because they don't know where their engines at and what it should be for compression. But I can just tell you my experience with running 28:1 klotz tcw3 synthetic on my yz250 has been very good for me. Of course now the prices for everything have gone insane 😮 I honestly think it would be the same and just fine with a different cheaper brand like lukas semi synthetic. I did run that for a short while with no problems in how it ran at the 28:1 ratio. I believe yamalube would run that ratio just fine too. If everything else is good to go and the jetting is good. I'm pretty sure it would run strong at 20:1 honestly. But I haven't tried that much oil 🙃 With the lower flashpoint oils you shouldn't have a problem needing to get it hot enough at all. I haven't had that problem at all whatsoever at the ratio I run. It's normal for a two-stroke to get a little bit dirty after so many hours no matter what you do. I think it's a real bad idea to try to prevent that by doing something crazy like going to 100:1. It's not that hard to clean them whenever it's actually needed. Its a 2 smoke😤 🙂 I favor the cast pistons too because of the tighter clearance. And it's not as crucial if you do happen to rev it up while it's cold compared to forged piston.
It does smell good, mixing 128:1 for a car isn't the same as 32:1 for a motocrosser. You likely won't notice a thing. I didn't realize you rotary guys put 2 stroke oil in your fuel, learn something errrrrday!
@@robertbaker9329 my original popped at just shy of 50hrs. My next crank (cheaped out and went Wiseco) popped at 50hrs also. I ride hard mx in deep sand. If you bought an X I take it you ride more single track/enduro kind of stuff, should last much much longer.
@@turdpike yeah I’m hardly ever tapped out I’m only on single tracks on slow technical stuff but that’s good to know I’m hoping to get a 100 hours out of a top end thanks for the fast reply
I have 65.4hrs on my original top end in my 2015 YZ250. Runs absolutely perfect. Ran nothing but Castrol 2t tts full syn for every bit of those hours. But it seems I can't find it now. I'm looking into this klotz...
The main thing to know with R50 is that it does not need the rich oil ratios. Benol sucks cuz it burns dirty. R50 keeps a super high viscosity (about a 50wt) at high Temps. You don't need 32:1. More oil unnecessarily will add heat and kill bearings at worst and rob power at best. Synthetics turn back to alcohol when they vaporize hence their cleanliness. This oil can be used safely from 50:1 to 80:1 depending on load duration.
So how does running at or almost full throttle all the time in deep loamy sand at an MX track sound like for load duration? Call it 75-100% of what that engine has for half an hour at a time? Wanna do 50:1 there?
I ran this in my 250cc greeves and never had one problem do to lubrication never and I ran it hard in winter to I loved my greeves challenger LEMAY NELSON VANCOUVER WASHINGTON NORTH WEST PACIFIC COAST
I use Klotz R 50 in my kart engine. Great video thank you.
I run KLOTZ Super on the woods and Trail bikes. This is the best oil💪🏁
I never tried Klotz oil. I been using Lucas 2 stroke oil mix. I mix it for my banshee, dirt bikes,chainsaw, leaf blower,and RC plane. I’ve had really good luck with it. But I still wanted to check your review on Klotz. Good video. thank you
thank you for a very informative video. keep up the great work.
I use Klotz Techniplate in my 2009 yz250. Run it hard and have zero buildup and have only had 2 bad plugs in that time span. Those were on initial break in.
Gotta love the smell!
i agree on the cast pistons usually not hurting the cylinders but i run forged because cast pistons are the only kind i ever had break and they get pieces inthe bottom end some times when they di break thats just my philosophy on pistons on 2 strokes i agree with yours too though
I use Klotz n my 90 CR 125 not a problem at all also run KLOTS n my bass boat that has a Mercury shirt shaft 280 n been running it since 99 still no problems at all best oil out there just MY OPINION
I just bought me and my son a couple of yz’s both 1997 125&250. What would be the best oil and ratio in your opinion just to putt around. We are new to the sport and would probably not be in 4th gear that much?
I believe that Klotz recommends their KL-302 2-cycle Motorcycle Techniplate as their cleanest burning oil. It is a very good oil that is recommended for mix ratios between 32:1 up to 50:1. If you're in the racing business where teardowns are very routine then the dirtier oils are acceptable. The R-50 is recommended for power valve engines but it's just not a clean burning oil.
they do
does it smell as good as klotz super techniplate?
Piston looks mint
My yz 125 can’t burn it, any ideas
I ran this on an extremely highly modified ported Genuine Buddy 50 scooter and holy sh*t it made a big difference. Use 40 or 50:1 cause it’s a thick oil. To keep this oil burning you have to ride your scooter like a maniac wide open throttle trust me it works. I’m an engine builder
Has klotz r50 ever caused problems
Not in the bike game anymore body is to beat and broken these days but ive been running this stuff in all my saws for years and they all seem to love it
How many hours your bottom ends last with this oil
Picked up a 99 ktm 250. Always used 927 or dominator, I’ve heard people talk about klotz ever since I got my first 2 stroke. I’m going to try it out because I want to see if it’s all hyped up or actually as good as people claim. I’ll update after 2 months of use.
It’s not just hype, although 927 and dominator are both good oils also, albeit for different applications
How about that update?
is this safe for goped?
im running r-50 over winter cause i cant run klotz super teck and benol because they separate under 35 degrees
I got a few gallons of for my detroit 8v92 2 stroke v8, i cut it with amsoil dominator 2t so i get sae 40w pure 2 stroke oil. Its not cheap though but works great.
what oil ration should i run a 2004 ktm 105sx with r-50 ? im doing 40;1 now cause that's what the manual says
I’d keep running what the manual suggests. Are you tearing the thing a new butthole every time you go ride it?
@@turdpike i try to be nice to it, but this year im racing it in the 85 class and last year i did 125 class soo i might be hard on it lol
@@adamgingrich7677 keep running 40:1 I used to race an 85 to just make sure to keep it jetted properly!!
Great oil for woods riding, run a higher ratio!
@@peteh8077I’m running this oil 50:1 for trail riding
Did oil drip out of your power vavle vent line with it.
A little bit but not much.
Did your cylinder still have crosshatching
Sure did
@@turdpike do you have pictures by chance
No I don’t, sorry
@@turdpike no problem really appreciate the post and the reply 👍
i run benoil what would be the advantages to runing this vs benoil? im not very oil savy i do 40/1 with race gas and benoil i both my yz250s i am interested in maybe switching to this
Only real advantage is that the R50 will burn a bit cleaner than Benoil, and also R50 won’t separate at lower temps (if thats a factor for you) like your castor oil will. Basically R50 is like a engineered synthetic version of castor oil
I'm running beanol in my cr80. Seems great but ran a few drag races with my buddy when it was below klots's recommended outside air temp of 35. It was 29. Wonder what this does
Are u running br9 plugs?
Nope, 8’s
@@turdpike do 9 burn clean with this oil?
@sethmacgillivary1281 unsure yet as I’ve only ever run 8’s in my 250s
Why not a litle bean oil in the oil. Amazing stuff If you pin it. Not so amazing if you 1/3 throttle the bike.
Yup, very true. The R50 is a very close equivalent to bean oil in its properties. In faster revving smaller engines (125’s) I’ve been running Benol by Klotz
You may try running a tcw3 full synthetic that's a lower flashpoint....... But much more of it. That will protect it and give a very good seal and compression/longevity.
My 17 YZ250 kicked over 232~233 psi when it was new after some run in.
Almost 50 hours on the meter(yes haven't rode that much overall) and I just recently checked it at 230 PSI on the same exact compression gauge. That tells me there's practically no wear. And the butt dyno definitely says that the power is still all there. Too much for my lightweight these days truthfully.
Most of the hours are hard running on the dunes and then the track..... And then some on trails. I haven't fouled a single plug since I got the bike new. It doesn't spit out oil out the silencer or stutter and load up even if off the pipe for a while. And I'm running 28:1 of the oil mentioned already. Ive ran that ratio the whole time and the bike makes tons of power and runs incredibly strong throughout.
It had 50 pilot jet stock from factory which was way too rich. I think that's Yamaha trying to cover their high-compression engine with super rich pilot to try and stop pinging. For the Yzs I think it's wise to run at least 20% 110. But once I went way down on the pilot that problem went away.
I run 50/50 premium non ethanol and 110. I figured a little bit of overkill will at least store good for when it's not in use. And it has.
I haven't seen what the internals look like but at least my compression gauge is telling me that it's practically the same compression after almost 50 hours on the meter.
I think more oil content and a lower flashpoint is good combination for power and longevity. But I believe in more oil in 2 strokes in general. I'm not sure how R-50 would run at that ratio. It also seems like there's tons of people that just don't know what they are doing so all the info is mixed. If the jetting is off.... It doesn't matter what someone does. Or if they're compression is low and it's worn out..... Everything they say is going to be off and false because it's based off of worn-out low compression 2 stroke. I believe they need to get way leaner if they're very low on compression to keep them running. Not that someone we should do that..... But there's probably many that end up doing something like that because they don't know where their engines at and what it should be for compression.
But I can just tell you my experience with running 28:1 klotz tcw3 synthetic on my yz250 has been very good for me. Of course now the prices for everything have gone insane 😮 I honestly think it would be the same and just fine with a different cheaper brand like lukas semi synthetic. I did run that for a short while with no problems in how it ran at the 28:1 ratio. I believe yamalube would run that ratio just fine too. If everything else is good to go and the jetting is good. I'm pretty sure it would run strong at 20:1 honestly. But I haven't tried that much oil 🙃
With the lower flashpoint oils you shouldn't have a problem needing to get it hot enough at all. I haven't had that problem at all whatsoever at the ratio I run.
It's normal for a two-stroke to get a little bit dirty after so many hours no matter what you do. I think it's a real bad idea to try to prevent that by doing something crazy like going to 100:1. It's not that hard to clean them whenever it's actually needed. Its a 2 smoke😤 🙂
I favor the cast pistons too because of the tighter clearance. And it's not as crucial if you do happen to rev it up while it's cold compared to forged piston.
With modern 2 stroke oil there is no need to go rich with oil. In fact it has a reverse effect.
How does it have reverse effect
my yz manual said 32:1 if buy this can go in 40:1 no problem
Yes you can man I have over 100 hours on my 2021 with r50 at 40to1 mixed with 100ll avgas works awesome smells awesome
@@trentonrobinson2745what 2021 bike?😊
@@JackMacdonald-ih3ht 2021 yz250
@@trentonrobinson2745 how many hours did your bottom end and top end last with the oil?
???
I tried this oil cause all the craze off the smell. I aint smell nothing. Only ran 1 oz to a gallon on my rx7. Was like molases.
It does smell good, mixing 128:1 for a car isn't the same as 32:1 for a motocrosser. You likely won't notice a thing. I didn't realize you rotary guys put 2 stroke oil in your fuel, learn something errrrrday!
@@turdpike yeah its called rotary premixing.
I would run richer than 1 oz per gallon I’d go 2 oz a gallon
Good baseline info for the rest of us. Oil is a PC/Mac thing - fanboys everywhere.
Very true
Wow 3 pistons in 80 hours seems a bit excessive
1 I had to due to crank failure, other 2 were scheduled.
@@turdpike I just bought a 2023 yz250x I hope my crank doesn’t go that fast
@@robertbaker9329 my original popped at just shy of 50hrs. My next crank (cheaped out and went Wiseco) popped at 50hrs also. I ride hard mx in deep sand. If you bought an X I take it you ride more single track/enduro kind of stuff, should last much much longer.
@@turdpike yeah I’m hardly ever tapped out I’m only on single tracks on slow technical stuff but that’s good to know I’m hoping to get a 100 hours out of a top end thanks for the fast reply
I have 65.4hrs on my original top end in my 2015 YZ250. Runs absolutely perfect. Ran nothing but Castrol 2t tts full syn for every bit of those hours. But it seems I can't find it now. I'm looking into this klotz...
I quit riding dirt.... They out priced the avg. Rider.... I can go on and on how they rip us off....
The main thing to know with R50 is that it does not need the rich oil ratios. Benol sucks cuz it burns dirty. R50 keeps a super high viscosity (about a 50wt) at high Temps. You don't need 32:1. More oil unnecessarily will add heat and kill bearings at worst and rob power at best. Synthetics turn back to alcohol when they vaporize hence their cleanliness. This oil can be used safely from 50:1 to 80:1 depending on load duration.
So how does running at or almost full throttle all the time in deep loamy sand at an MX track sound like for load duration? Call it 75-100% of what that engine has for half an hour at a time? Wanna do 50:1 there?
@@turdpike yeah with r50 50 to 1 handles it, my engines last and last and i pound em hard lots of wot.
How will more oil add heat and kill bearings?
@@sethmacgillivary1281that’s a good question, I don’t understand that statement either.
@@andreawhalen4142 on yz 125?
YOU DONT NEED 32:1 W R50.
What kind of riding do you do? And tell me, exactly what ratio should I be using for my riding conditions, skill, and engine tolerances?
Who says?
Guys dont listen to this propaganda, shell rotella 100:1 all day long
Don’t listen to this guy. Splash of wd40 at 200:1 and you’re good to go
I ran this in my 250cc greeves and never had one problem do to lubrication never and I ran it hard in winter to I loved my greeves challenger LEMAY NELSON VANCOUVER WASHINGTON NORTH WEST PACIFIC COAST
What was the coldest temp you ride it in. I was running below thier recommendation yesterday