THE BEST 2 CYCLE OIL for use in a chainsaw, and what oil I recommend.
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- Опубліковано 24 лис 2017
- Maxima K2. amzn.to/2W7qKTt amzn.to/2ynwLCH
Honda HP2 oil. amzn.to/3JOdief
Amsoil Dominator. amzn.to/3t7VRiV
Amsoil Saber. amzn.to/3G0xUgN
Motul 710. amzn.to/3qW9Aqf
Also some of the technical information regarding some of the oils flash points has changed. I assume this is do to a formula change, or simply a correction. - Наука та технологія
I am just switching to yamalube 40:1 to my saws and it seem like it is straight gas in a can but it is surly mix 40:1 just wondering if I should keep useing the yamalube
I no longer recommend Yamalube, it has good corrosion resistance and I haven't seen any failures, but it doesn't leave enough oil behind for my liking. Maxima K2 or Super M, Honda HP2, Amsoil Dominator or Saber, Motul 710 or 800 off Road are my picks. Echo's RedArmor is really good OEM oil, it's just expensive.
@@Andyshine77 thank you very much for the help I really appreciate it I well be goin to the k2 oil from now on
Good deal, any of the oils I listed are top notch.
@@patrickallred850 That's what I mix at and it is still too dry. They're much better oils out there IMHO.✌
@@Sensei948 It's fine.
Fantastic video, Andre. How did I miss this? I share your love for oils, but don't have NEAR the knowledge base you do. However, I'm enough of a tech geek to totally dig your insight. BTW, you should make more videos like this. Very well done.
Great information. I will try out the k2. Thanks!
I am watching this 5 years after you made and released the video. I
t is still pertinent in some parts. As many of the more recent oil testers apparently were not aware of the recommended use of Stihl Ultra for the 4 cycle Stihl motors. They universally trashed it not stating that it was not designed for 2 cycle chainsaws etc. Sorry about the typo's.
Thanks a lot, sir!
The information in your video is invaluable. I learned a ton, just in 13 minute video. I watched the video specifically for the Honda HP2 oil, which I recently bought. The information I received is what I was looking for.
Another thing, I believe you didn't mention, about ester oils and specifically Motul 2T 800, 710 - they don't mix well with the fuel when outside/ambient temperature is below 50-60*F (10-15*C), so you don't want to use ester oils in the winter. They are mostly for racing applications and are design to be run not only at hot engine temperature, but also hot ambient temperatures. I have a friend who runs Motul 2T 710 in his child's race go-cart and he advised me to not use Motul 710 (which I also have) in ambient temperatures below 50-60*F (10-15*C) because it doesn't mix well with the fuel at those low temperatures. So ester oils are summer oils and not winter oils, also they are designed particularly for racing applications.
Thanks again, sir, and keep the good work!
You are a highly knowledgeable person.
You are getting Ester based oils and Castor based oils mixed up. Ester based oils are perfectly fine in the cold, and many of the 0w oils have group IV an V base stocks. Castor and castor oil blends often separate in temperatures below 35°F. So Motul 710 and 800 are perfectly fine in all temperatures.
It's easy to get them mixed up, thanks for adding to the discussion.
K2 is fine oil and I would bet it would pass Jaso FD if tested. Its also considerably different formulation wise than R50 or 800.
I mixed Yamalube 2R and Castrol power rs 1:2
Then used that at 32:1
Runs clean with awesome protection and smells good too.
I'd like to see some testing of the klotz original techniplate & motul 710 2t
Thanks for the video. Is viscosity really indicative of film strength ? Also, does the type of fuel being used, have a significant bearing on the oil's properties ?, for example, aromatics and double bonded, non aliphatic hydrocarbons, vs aliphatic, paraffinic hydrocarbons with few or no double bonds (like a Stihl, Husqvarna, or other non-'gasoline' fuel). Just to clarify for those new to this: gasoline is a gamish of crap, thrown together to barely get the job done, as compared to higher grade hydrocarbons that don't easily oxidize, and retain their stability for years as compared to weeks.
So question. if I get a synthetic oil can I change my ratio from 25 to 50
I think Ester oils like Motul 800 are good for road bikes when you engine brake alot, oil stays around A bit longer
Oil migration is very critical on a two stroke. I've learned this many many years ago. The higher the RPM the more oil you need.. adjust your jetting accordingly.
100% correct! People never bring this up and a chainsaw running at 13000 rpm will have a high oil migration and in turn will need more oil to live a good long life.
I would like to see a more recent video where you describe the more recent oils etc.
If polybutane based oil + solvent has high film strength at 100 C, does it have low film strength at low temperature = cold start?
Great video.
Thank you!
Have you tried motul grand prix go kart 2 stroke oil
I have not. Most kart oils are for extremely demanding application. It will not hurt a lower performance engine in any way. However it may not fully combust in engines not ran at extrean rpm's, pressures and and temps. If ran at lower temps and so on you may have some unburnt oil coming out of the exhaust, even with spot on tuning. From looking at the MSDS ant tech sheet, it appears to fall in between 800 road race and 800 off road.
Have you done a full tear down any saws running the K2? How is the carbon build up at say 40:1? I am seeing a little oily residue on the exhaust. Thanks
I have many times on saws ran on 32:1 and 40:1 A little residue is actually normal with good oils. But I don't see much of that with K2 unless the engine is turned a little rich.
I have a ported stihl 046. The saw will pull a 36 inch bar full chissel full skip through southern live oak(cutting this wood all day you better have a couple of chains on you) I am running VP C12 ethanol 108 octane. Right now I have stihl HP ultra or what ever their top of the line 2 stroke oil is. I am also in Texas gulf coast where the air is THICK like a well fed woman and the heat easily gets over 100° F. What 2 stroke oil do you suggest for this specific application? Thank you
C12 is good stuff. Stihl ultra is not an oil I recommend in chainsaws, in the 4mix engines is where that oil belongs.
Any of these oils I highly recommend.
Maxuma k2 or Super M
Honda HP2
Yamalube 2R
Motul 710 or 800
Amsoil Saber
All mixed at 40:1
Mr. Bob, I just wanted to thank you for a couple things and ask your opinion. Thank you for your video and your comment near the end that really got me. "tends to separate under 40 degrees" I love the way Blenzall smells, I love the fact that it's natural. I did NOT love when My local shop told me that my 3 month old Redmax trimmer was not covered because I ran it without oil ( I did NOT, I ran a mixture 40:1 Blendzall Ultra) My Blendzall had apparently separated in colder weather not storing it inside.... it scarred the Piston and caused it to lock up. I wrote Blendzall and they said, it would work fine but suggested adding more product. I could not afford to buy a new weedeater every 90 days, so I went back to Redmax and husqvarna mixes. Can I ad a small amount to my current Redmax mix or will it work against me. Thank you again for all your work and Wisdom. Michael in Tennessee
Can I use one of your Castor (smell) products in my weedeater/ Chainsaw and have it work well?
I personally would not recommend running castor oil in any of my equipment, it's really is not intended to be used in anything but race engines. Even than castor oils were used before, better modern synthetics were developed, and in most circumstances, synthetics have surpassed castor oils.
Castor oils do smell neat, but that's about their best attribute in OPE. If you want an oil with a unique odor, give Motul 800 a try, K2 smells pretty neat too.The only oil with some castor I'd consider using would be Maxima 927, but you still have the cold weather separation problem.
I would not mix a synthetic oil with a castor. It may work perfectly fine, it might not. There's just no real benefit to the risk.
@@Andyshine77 thank you for the quick response. I don't think it's worth the smell, I'll just stick to the Redmax or Husqvarna mixes.
Both of those are good. Amsoil Saber/Dominator, Honda HP2, Maxima K2 are very clean, burning, and a better value than the OEM oils.
I like echo red armor. Leaves behind a nice red film at 40:1. It’s hard to find Motul and Amsoil in my area.
Red Armor is good stuff.
Hello, It's unrealistic to keep track of oil company 2 stroke data sheets as they change between markets and are updated without notice - also we all have a life to lead! However, you have mentioned Husqvarna so I asked for the data sheets in the UK. The sheet for 2 Stroke XP gives an address of Charlotte NC USA. I don’t really understand the sheet, but under the section ‘physical and chemical properties’, kinematic viscosity 7.5mm2/s (212F(100c). Does that mean it has a film strength (cSt) of 7.5 and if so is that really poor? I received the sheet from Husqvarna UK on 07th October 2019. Cheers
CST of 7.5 is fine in most saw applications. It is on the lower side and I personally prefer a higher number, but as long as you tune the engine correctly it should provide proper lubrication, especially if you run it at 40:1 or 32:1✌
Thanks for the video, online Maxima k2/amsoil Sabre/ red Armour all are close to 60-70 bucks a gallon. Bel ray h1r seems to be 100. I have a few string trimmers, leaf blower. I want this for my 50 cc and an 80/90 cc chainsaw. Would you choose Amsoil Sabre over k2 for this?
Both will do fine, Amsoil Dominator as a fine option and a bit more affordable. Honda HP2 is another favorite of mine. If you buy Amsoil order from their website. www.amsoil.com/
It's important to use a brand name oil with the correct classifications. Any saw dealer sells good oil. My Dolmar saw is 17 years old and I have used a few brands of oil...none of the problems I've had over the years have been engine or oil related. Most saw pros don't wear out their saw engines, the saws just start falling apart from use. regardless which brand of oil they use.
What are your thoughts on Husqvarna XP+? Been running it at 40:1 and retuned my saws for it. Thinking about trying red armor though
Nothing wrong with it at all. I do think RedArmor is better, but you will never have an oil related problem with the Husqvarna XP+ oil.
What if I mix some Lucas with yamalube how about mercury marine premium quicksilver
I have brush cutter husqvarna 555 rxt
My husq getting so hot after 5,9 minutes (i use LS+ and another husq 1:33 ratio oil)
what would I choose between motul 800 or mobil 1 racing
Thanks!
Mobil-1 is better suited for use in a chainsaw. Mix it at 40:1
To help stop castor oils separating , use 20 % methyl benzine in your mix. Also don't store mixed fuel with castor oils for very long or it can cause problems
Absolutely correct on all counts, good advice!
My makita DCS 6800I has had a 50:1 ratio ran in it before I acquired it. I'm using Honda Hp2 should I run 50:1, 40:1 or 32:1? any issues with running 40:1 or 32:1?
You will have no issues running HP2 at 40:1 or 32:1.
Hi, where did you get the flashpoint data for K2? The technical data and the MSDS on the website says 240°F, nowhere near 392°F ??
www.maximausa.com/tds/2stroke/Formula%20K2%20TDS.pdf
I have been doing research on these oils for the past decade, understand that the info is updated regularly, and the numbers have fluctuated over the years. The same goes for most of the oils in the video, Klotz seems to be the worst at this, it seems every year the info changes. I believe this is do to how they preform the test, maybe they change something in the formula, or it's just a correction. I'll add the new info in the description. Thanks for the heads up, and for commenting. I will also pin your comment so others can see it.
@@Andyshine77 No problem, I was just looking for some in Australia, your video came up and then the data was different, was confusing
It can be confusing, and this is the internet, so some have attacked me and accused me of spreading bad info, when all it came down to was the manufacture changing the info. I'm not sure how popular Maxima products are in other countries? it's very popular in the states. If you can't fine it some of the other oils like Honda HP2 are excellent too. Some oils like those from Repsol, ELF and others are near impossible to get here, which is too bad they look like excellent products.
it's available from a couple of distributors in other states, it's also $40 a litre plus postage. Repsol and ELF are around but also similarly hard to find, I've never seen Honda HP2 but Yamalube is available, made by Spectrum USA (Philips 66) as is Echo and Jakmax which all look to be basically the same oil/spec. K2 looks much better spec, Motul 800 I can only find in 4 litres for $160, I don't need that much.
@@CSkwirl Glad it's available in your market, as Maxima is a relatively small family owned company. $40 a leader is a lot, so I can't blame you if you go with an alternative oil. The Honda oil is common here and very affordable, I believe it runs about $10 a pint. Most Honda bike dealers will have it on the shelf. Motul 800 really don't belong in a normal work saw, unless you're using the saw for milling or in other extreme applications. 800 does oil incredibly well, it just doesn't burn well until you get the saw really hot. Yamalube is OK mixed at say 32:1 but doesn't offer same protection as the other oils due to its much thinner viscosity. It is a clean burning oil though. Here in the states yamalube is made by Citgo, at least that's what the MSDS I have says. I have not personally ran Jakmax, but I do have an acquaintance from an internet chainsaw forum I'm on, that has ran jackmax oil with good resuts, but it's not available here, so I don't know anything about it other than that.
Thanks again for watching the video and commenting. Hope I've been helpful.
cSt is a viscosity measurement; in centistokes. Centistokes = spgr / centipoise , and isn't necessarily correlative to film strength.
I run any cheap 2 cycle oil im my chainsaws and have for many years without a problem. Now when it comes to my banshee and bikes I run Maxima super M just my preference I really like the smell of it when it is burning lol
Super M is a really good oil, it's basically K2 blended with some conventional base oils, I wouldn't hesitate to run it.✌
@@Andyshine77 thanks for info
I know very little about chainsaws. Can 927 react improperly with the fuel lines? On my Stihl chainsaw, the grommeted line that goes in the fuel tank went bad. Also, if u c fine bubbles in the clear priming button, does that indicate a problem? Thank u for your knowledge!!
927 won't effect the furl lines, ethanol in today's fuel is what will cause that. Fine bubbles could indicate a pinhole in the fuel line, but you will always have some bubbles in the primer bulb.
@@Andyshine77 Thank u for your prompt reply. What gas do u recommend?
@@billrimmer5596 Any non ethanol fuel. Canned fuel from is excellent, but expensive. www.pure-gas.org/
Sorry I am late checking in on this video. What are your thoughts on the Lucas semi synthetic? Its JASO FD certified. I have been running it in all my equipment at 40:1 and have seen very little carbon buildup from it
It's a poor choice. It leaves little to no residual oil in the engine do to it's low flash point, and extremely thin viscosity, it also has very low shear strength. The engines I've seen ran on the oil were dry inside, even when ran at 32:1. One of the worst oils available IMHO.
Hope this helps. ✌
@@Andyshine77 Thanks so much! I needed to know that. Of the commonly available oils, what is your recommendation? Have you ever tried the Echo Red Armor oil?
@@ozarkhomesteader3879 RedArmor is fine, it was better until the reformulation, but it's still much better than Lucas. Echo PowerBlend is good stuff as well, as is Poulan synthetic. If you want to save a few bucks look for a local motorcycle/off-road shop, that will have at least one of the oils I have in the video.✌
I have switched to full synthetic, and needs to have fuel stablizer, cleaners added, plus be cheap.
Only one that meets that is VP racing 2cyle oil with fuel stablizer. It is sold all over $9.5, 16oz including walmart, tractor supply, home depot.
There are more name brand stihl, echo, amsoil that are exactly same full synthetic plus fuel stabilizers but cost double the price because are paying for brand stickers.
VP is excellent. The results are in, and stabilizers do absolutely nothing beneficial.
I heard Klotz R50 is not good to have idling got to long as it does it’s best work reving high.
Yes this is correct, it's best suited for constant high load applications, as is Motul 800 and most oils with high flash points. Keep in mind saws normally don't idle much, it's full throttle or nothing most of the time.
Very informative and educational video thanks for sharing! What sort of general purpose 2 cycle oil would you recommend for lighter use applications in equipment like string trimmers or edgers? In the past when I didnt care I just ran regular 4 cycle 5w30 oil mixed in an old blower I used to have. Going to be getting a new echo string trimmer soon and I want to treat it right. Wont be used commercially, but just on a single property less than an acre. I see these tiny bottles of oil branded by stihl, echo, and husqvarna, but they are so pricey. Would I be better served long term by just a quart of full synthetic 2 cycle oil? Or are these special oils pushed by the manufacturers really that much better and cleaner burning, and keeps your engine running better long term? I'm thinking I'll probably run 40:1 or 50:1 (echo recommends 50:1). I'm assuming a little bit more rich mix would help in the longevity department. Anyway, any suggestions on something quality and cost effective? I don't mind paying a premium a little bit but it really has to be worth it. Thanks!
Edit: one other question is full synth absolutely necessary or is a synthetic blend ok? I see that the echo red armor and the other echo oil is actually a blend, not fully synthetic. I'm more familiar with 4 cycle engines if I'm being honest. I've been running full synthetic 5w30 in all my cars for the last 10 years and hundreds of thousands of miles it's always served me well!
They're a lot of good option available. For you're application 50:1 or 40:1 will be just fine. The manufacture oils are usually nothing special. All of Echo's oils are top notch, Husqvarna's oil is good too, not a fan of any oil Stihl offers. Unless you're burning 10 gallons at a time the cost is low, as most just burn a few gallons a year. Maxima K2 or Super M would work great, Yamalube 2R and Honda HP2 are less expensive an awesome products. Synthetic blends can be as good or better than full synthetics. www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/dirt-bike-2-stroke-oil
@@Andyshine77 Thanks for the advice I appreciate the in-depth reply! I'll probably only go through a few gallons a year, since my equipment is winterized from November through March typically so the usage season is a little shorter than people in the south. I'm just curious though, it sounds like you really recommend a lot of dirt bike / motorcycle 2 cycle oils for small engine equipment like this, is there a particular reason for this? I'm assuming since they are engineered for high revving engines being ran hard that is also carried over to outdoor power equipment as well? I know a lot of this stuff runs at 7-8,000 RPMS+ at WOT, so I know heat can be an issue especially in the summer time when these things are being used as well.
@@DIYDad1 The oils develop for outdoor power equipment are usually made by the same companies that make oil for motorcycles and what not, but are made to be as inexpensive as possible for profit. The oils I recommend are generally far superior due to the more extreme requirements as you suggested. As long as the oil is develop for air-cooled engine, not water cooled it should be fine and all 2-cycle engines. Out of all the outdoor power equipment manufacturers Echo probably offers the best lubrication products.
Most of these small engines will operate at around 8,000 to 11,000 rpm under load. Some chainsaws for example can rev to 16,000 rpm without any load. Heat is mostly control with tuning of the carburetor, more fuel equals cooler engine temperatures.
Used MC1+ at 32 to 1 in the Ryobi weed-eater (30) years ago. (Spec’d for 50 to 1) - richened out both needles.
Yes, it smoked a little when cold. I found the faint smoke then *comforting* - “I put oil in it.”
What do you think about Castrol Power RS? It's a very popular oil in Europe. How do you think it compares to let's say Mobil 1 Racing or Motul 710?
I have never used Castro RS, but I do know of it and it is supposed to be a top performer. That's really all I know of the product.
Good video. Bottom line i find most modern oil is pretty good for most people running most modern 2 strokes.
Jetting is more important than anything for longevity and peformance. I personly use Maxima super M at 40 or 50 to 1 in my dirt bikes so its also what i run in my saws and everything 2 stroke i own.
any data on rapeseed (canola) oil ? it was originally developed as an industrial lubricant
I use canola for bar and chain oil but it wouldn’t be suitable for anything else.
Been up and down, all around. Echo Red Armor, 40:1 is where I have landed.
I have an OS FT-300 (50cc twin cylinder boxer 4 cycle) glow fuel model airplane engine. It is converted to run on gasoline. It is recommended to run at a mixture of 20:1 because it has plain bearing connecting rods (bronze rods). This engine has been discontinued and parts are rare so I want to take the best care of it as possible.
The manual calls for glow fuel with 18% castor oil or a combination of castor and synthetic oil. With glow fuel there is a lot of oil spraying from the exhaust and crankcase. I don't mind if there is still some oil mess. It will run under 9000 rpm.
What do you think is the best premix oil in this application? At this point I am mostly considering K2 or Super M. Rust prevention is a major concern.
Motul 800 is good for max protection. K2 and Super M would be fine as well, Honda HP2 is up on my list as well. If you want to use something with castor I recommend Maxima 927, but as you know castor comes with some drawbacks. Klotz also has a lube for RC engines. I'm no RC expert so maybe check out the forums and see what those guys like.
@@Andyshine77 Is the Motul 800 and K2 thick like Golden Spectro? I remember mixing it at 50:1 for bikes that called for 20:1
I don't know, I have member used that oil.
Red line oil for Rc engines,or still ultra bp.
@@jhnfalls I received a recommendation to use Amsoil Dominator at 15:1
Finaly someone who understands flashpoint..
How about the flashback?
Hi buddy, I have a question regarding Motul 800 in saws and trimmers of smaller cubic capacity, up to 50cc. Since it is a high quality oil for high revs and temperatures, I wonder if it is optimal for the aforementioned engines given that it has a high flashpoint. If it has a high flashpoint then I'm afraid it won't be able to burn completely. My question is whether with a spark plug of higher calorific value we can influence the mixture to burn better in the combustion chamber? Thank you very much, I hope I did not complicate the question😅
Good question. The spark only starts the combustion process, after that the combustion temperature will not be affected. In real small engines with lower compression and rpm, an oil with a lower flashpoint is the better choice IMHO.
@@Andyshine77 Thanks for such a quick response. So I have 1l of motul 800 oil and I want to try it in my 2 trimmers and 2 chainsaws which are 50cc. That doesn't seem to be the best idea 🤔
@@viracocha3125 Mix it at 50:1 and it will work ok especially in the saw, they work harder anyway.
@@Andyshine77 thank you very much 🙏
Hi, sry for my bad english and maybe stupid questions, but I am totally new at chainsaws...
I have Husky 365 (european version 65cc), so what mix do you recommend? I am using 40:1 stihl HP oil, but on the bottle it says to use 50:1... Do I have to do something with carb when I am using 40:1 or not to touch it?
Again sorry for my bad english.
The carburetor on a chainsaw needs to be adjusted regularly due to environmental changes. Switching from 50:1 to 40:1 will not have that much effect on the mixture, but again regular carburetor adjustment should be performed for optimum performance and engine life. I recommend Stihl HP Ultra over regular HP oil outside the U.S as that oil is made by Castrol oil, the U.S version is inferior. Husqvarna's new XP+ oil is top notch.
Did you mean that HP Ultra in US has different formula compared to HP Ultra sold in european market? If so what are the main differences?
Made by Castrol www.midlandtool.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/Stihl-2-Cycle-Enigne-Oil-Mix.pdf
Hi, The best video I've seen on 2 cycle oil for chainsaws. Where an oil might not have the ideal performance does increasing the quantity of oil (e.g. 50:1 to 32:1 or even 25:1) do more harm than good? Some small Echo chainsaws are designed to use fuel/oil at 25:1, however, some say increasing the amount of oil for a saw recommended to run at 50:1, increases engine temperature / wear ??? Do you have any view?
More oil reduces wear, increases durability, keeps the seals lubed and improves ring seal. The testing with a thermal coupler in exhaust port showed increase of 5°F when running 32:1 vs 50:1 this is a nominal difference, the benefits outweigh the negitives by a long shot. I recommend 40:1 in a regular work saw.✌
@@Andyshine77 Outstanding, from looking at your video I was sure you would have the answer! Cheers!
My favorite a motul 800 2t 👍
MsMohaman
It's a great oil!! It's a little too much in a saw unless you really push it in say a chainsaw mill, but it offers great lubrication in those extreme applications.
@@Andyshine77 why do you say that motul 800 is a little to much in a saw? 🤔🤔🤔
@@MihaiVH It has a high flash point compared to most oils especially OEM and is very viscous. So in lower load applications it doesn't fully combust or burn off, so it robs I slight bit of power, some auto tuning saws don't care for the heavy oils. That said it's not going to harm anything, in fact it protects very well, especially in demanding applications. They're simply oils more suited for the application, but if you have the oil and like it, just run it.✌
@@Andyshine77 for the moment I use Stihl HP (mineral oil) ....but i bought 1 L of Motul 800 Off Road in order to test it ....🤔🤔🤔 ...i usually use 25 ml of oil for 1 L of gas (95 unleaded or 100 unleaded )
@@MihaiVH 800 is far better than the oil you were using.
Have any experience with Schaeffer's 7000 or 9000? 7000 is a marine oil, but some guys swear by it in their saws. Curious what your opinion is on those two oils, if you don't mind.
TPS TPS I personally have no experience with these oils, but like you said, some some swear by them. From what I've seen on the forums and elsewhere they do at least burn seem to clean. What I'm leery about is the really low viscosity of the oils and to a less extent the low flash points. This makes me question the stability of the oil under heavy loads. From what I know the oils that offer the best protection, that also burn clean, are ester based oils. Only Castor oils will have better shear strength, this however comes at a cost, as Castor oils make a mess and gum everything up.
bobe8888 Thanks for responding. I'm really new to learning about two-cycle oils and their properties. Are there any resources you can share or recommend in regards to certain properties of oils and their best suited applications? I can find a whole lot of anecdotal evidence, but we all know that doesn't necessarily mean much.
bobistheoilguy.com can be a good resource, but you'll have to sift through a lot of info. Some of the better info come from the Cart racing. Any actual proper testing hasn't been done, at least not by a private individual. The best so far has been a guy running a few tanks of fuel than removing the top end for inspection, very little real info there IMHO.
What I suggest is learning about the different base stocks and additives that go into common 2t oils. Film strength and the flash points will also help you chose the proper oil. When you know whats what, you'll get a good idea, which oils will work in a particular application. Experience comes in to play too, I know how an engine should look when I get inside them. The best I personally have seen were saws ran with K2, HP2 and R50 for whatever that is worth.
What about Castrol GO 2T motorcycle oil? Is it a good oil to use in my Stihl chainsaw? Sorry if already answered as I may have missed it.
It's not that great, it's only JASO FB certified. I would choose something else personally.
Does it damage a 2 stroke engine to shut the fuel off and run it til it stops running? Thanks.
It can, as the fuel carries the lubrication.
Hey soldier of kindness , just a quick question do you run the k2 and hp2 at 32/1
Yes 32:1 now many of my saws are ported so they run a bit hotter and the rpm's are a bit higher, so 32:1 isn't always nessairy. I recommend 40:1 as a minimum. Some saw models like the husqvarna 372xp and 390xp have weak bottom ends so with those saws you want to stick with 32:1 for sure.
bobe8888 makes sense I have a ported 390 been running motul 40/1 seems to work ok but been wanting to run 32/1 but I think motel will get to dirty , do you think k2 or hp2
@@aaronstiles9799 I believe you ment to say Motul 800? Motul 800 is an oil that has really high film strength and a high flash point. This means it protects extremely well. The issue myself and others have with Motul 800 is that it doesn't fully combust, so you loose a tiny bit of power and you'll get oil residue coming out of the muffler exhaust port, even at 50:1. The only time I've seen oils like Motul 800 and Klotz R50 run correctly is when the saw was used as a mill. For normal use the slightly thinner oils with a bit lower flash points are probably better, they seem to burn more completely, make better power and protect really well.
Hello, good vid 👍 what do you recommend for 2 stroke oil for new stihl ms 362cm, 59cc saw in europe?
I know Motul is available in Europe, so Motul 710 would be a fine choice, 800 will work too, but I do prefer 710 in chainsaws.
I use Motorex Cross Power 2T 2stroke synthetic oil. Its great never had a problem in dirtbikes or stihl chainsaws. 40:1
ciao amico io uso motul 710 con grande soddisfazione da molti anni con zero guasti e le mie macchine sono perfette un mio amico usa sthil hp ultra lui dice che è migliore te cosa ne pensi grazie amico.
710 is a 100x better than ultra. Ultra creates large amounts of carbon deposits.
Need someone’s help I got a Suzuki rm85 and looking in to using Klotz or Motul?
Motul is better in a work saw.
Have you ever tried. Klotz motorcycle TechniPlate tc-w2. Or Klotz outboard or ski craft or snowmobile
andrew russell I have not ran that particular oil. From looking at the info, it's JASO FC certified and has a film strength right around most OEM oils. Because of this I would not hesitate to run it at say 40:1 or 32:1 I personally prefer oils with a little higher film strengths, but honestly in a chainsaw it's not necessary as long as you tune properly and run a bit more oil.
Thinking of running castrol TTS power 1 in my 500i stihl,any thoughts? Cheers.
Should work fine.
Scheaffers 9000 full synthetic lquiu moly 2t full synthetic. Both good oils for modified saws burns clean .
I have no personal experience with them, but have heard an seen good things about Scheaffer's, Scott Treemonkey uses Scheaffer's. Liquid Molly has always made good oils, so I bet it's good stuff too.
I just bought two 64oz jugs of the Maxima Formula K2 after watching this video. My chainsaws all recommend a 50:1 ratio and that's what I intend to mix it at with 92/93 pump gasoline. Or would you recommend another ratio such as 40:1? They are all stock saws and if I do mod them it would only be the muffler and carb tuning. I am familiar with Amsoil's Saber Professional Synthetic 2 stroke oil. Their claims of 80:1 and 100:1 sounded like trouble in the making. Very glad I never bought and used it after seeing that MS441!
40:1 will be perfect in your saws. 80:1-100:1 may work in small trimmers that run at lower rpm, are tuned rich and produce much less power, never run anything less than 50:1 in a saw.✌
@@Andyshine77 Thank-you!
@@stephanmackie5281 I'd prefer ethanol free fuel, but it's to expensive to run exclusively if burning any amount. It costs $25-$30 a gallon. Nothing wrong with using pump gas as long as don't store it with it in the equipment or leave it sit for more than a month. I add Stabil to my pump gas so I'm good during seasonal use. For storage I use TruFuel. Why did you quit using K2?
@@stephanmackie5281 I'm mixing at 40:1 with K2. I'll look into the other two you mention tbough.
@@obeconoberougle9497 Most builders including myself no longer recommend H1R or 800 as they inhibit combustion. They do work well in extreme conditions like milling, as engine temperatures get hot enough long enough. Mackie is likely listening to hotsaw 101, he's a jerk and we've gon back and forth on the great oil debate. Any of these oils will protect a saw, K2 has a good balance of film strength and ability to combust at the combustion temperatures chainsaws have. K2, Yamalube and Amsoil Dominator have the right flash points for use in a chainsaw. You can run pump fuel all you want it will do no harm to the engine. The issues with Pump fuel that has ethanol is storage, shelf life and it's hard on the fuel lines and carb diaphragm. But it will not harm the engine, and the components in new equipment has been designed to deal with the ethanol, and does so well.
The other guy was just trolling me.✌
Outstanding information bobe8888 ! Now here's a question regarding this topic I have 4 brand new quarts of mobil 1 racing 2t that a buddie gave me but he said the soil might be from 06 07 not sure as I don't see any markings on the bottle? Now would you even recommend using this stuff up or should I stick with my maxima k2 @44:1 ? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thank you for your time and have a happy holiday season to you and yours...........Benny
It's perfectly fine to use, just shake the bottle before use, as some of the additives could settle.
@@Andyshine77 thank you for the fast reply ! Thanks again for your time and your help.......Benny
What ratio should I mix motul 710 in a ms 261c? 40:1 or 50:1?
40:1
how much motul 2T 800
@bobe888 - What would be your recommended Gas:Oil Ratio using K2 for broken in chainsaws 35-80cc?? Great video and thanks for all your knowledge on the subject
Mike Powers 40:1 is fine in most applications. 32:1 will give you the best results if you use the saw hard, or run ported saws. Good oil does not make up for quantity of oil.
Thanks. I was reading on arborist forums that others were running the K2 @ 50:1. Wasn't sure if that was too thin even though 50:1 seems to be standard for stihl/husq oils.
I run a mix between ported and stock saws so I'm just trying to find a good middle ground for the k2. I think I'll shoot for 40:1
K2 runs extremely well @ 32:1 I even in AutoTune saws. 40:1 is fine, but seeing you have some ported saw my recommendation will always be 32:1
Hi, Thanks for video...got a new chainsaw, because shop was close i use motul 2T scooter expert semi synth non smoke from my bike & at the exhaust i saw very small tiny bits of oil (like un-burned) ... shop open & got an ALCO's 2T semi synth oil non smoke for chainsaw etc (made in USA but selling it here in Europe) this one suppose to build a film protection & at exhaust there is not a single drop of oil, all clean ... does make any difference in the engine? which one should i stick with? both same price of 10 euro, Thanks
There will always be some oil that comes out of the exhaust, especially if the engine is tuned a little rich. It's nothing to worry about, and in some ways, it can be a good thing. I would stick with the Motul.
@@Andyshine77 ok right, thanks for info, what i am suspecting is the ALCO oil does not leave any drop of oil ( at the exhaust) & searching the net i did find company closed down since 7 years ago, so maybe is very old stock & its complements are no so effective & maybe that is why not leave any single drop of oil ? perhaps will not buy it again, Thanks
Good video. But I'm hearing mixed reviews on the stihl hp oil like you had in this video. Richard fragg or flagg, had a video that showed at 50-1 the crank was hardly getting any lubrication. What you think? And no the stihl premium is the castrol oil. Richard says the hp oil is different brand. I have a bottle and can't seem to find the manufacturer name on back.
The manufacturer of Stihl oil depends on the country and region. In the U.S the oil is made by Omni specialty packaging, in some countries it's made by Castrol. The Castrol is better, than the Omni stuff, but I'm not a fan of either. I was running Ultra in my 4-mix engines, but even there I was seeing too much buildup.
These are my current top recommendations in no particular order.
Motul 710, and or 800.
Honda HP2.
Maxima K2 or SuperM.
Amsoil Saber or Dominator.
Echo RedArmor.
@Andyshine77 Andy, any thoughts on BelRay H1R 2-stroke racing oil?
11:30 Amsoil Sabre 2 stroke oil 100:1 was running in the Stihl MS441?
And it messed up the top end.
Ever test echo red max?
what about mixing 927 with k2 50/50?
is the castor 927 ok as long as its mixed well i ran it in mx for years still do
So what was the best bang for the buck pic I bought a 260 stihl and bought a small 2cycle oil from them its in an orange bottle
Honda HP2, and Amsoil Dominator or Amsoil Saber are going to be the most adorable.
@@Andyshine77 thanks for the response appreciate your time
What about Opti 2? I don't think it is a synthetic, but the data sheet shows a flash point of 230 and a film strength of 13.4 My local hardware store carries it
Not a product I recommend. But mixed at an appropriate ratio like 40:1 at that ratio it will run OK, it just tends to run a bit dirty. It's cheap stuff so hardware stores sell it like crazy. Again a powersports shop is a good place to find two cycle oil, pick up a ratio-rite cut too, makes mixing premix fuel super easy. If not Home Depot will have the RedArmor or PowerBlend. I believe Walmart offers a synthetic 2-cycle air-cooled oil as well that's not bad. Just make it's not the Marine TCW3 stuff for water cooled engines.✌
@@Andyshine77 Thanks again. I am a bit worried about the Lucas now. I will get some K2 ordered, but I'll run to Home Depot and grab some echo oil to get me by for use this week. Which one of the 2 Echo oils should I get?
@@ozarkhomesteader3879 RedArmor is maybe a little better, but both work just fine. Really try not to over think things too much, only a few of these oils I truly dislike, Lucas just happens to be one of them. It's actually not FD certified as it doesn't have the seal and certification number, they just claim it meets the specification. On the RedArmor container it will have the FD seal with the certification number. Manufacturers get away with a lot of BS if you don't know what to look for
Marry Christmas to you.
@@Andyshine77 Thanks again. I have a ratio rite cup and will mix a at 40:1 as I had been. Having good oil in this new high reving saw makes me feel a lot better. Merry Christmas to you too sir!
Hi. Do you know much about Lucas semi synthetic 2 cycle land and sea oil?
It's garbage, like most of their products.
Please check and do a review on Super S full synth 2 atroke oil
Great video! What do you think of Mobil 1 racing 2t? That's what I've been running in my Husky 565.
That's all I ran before it was pulled from the shelves in the U.S. It's a phenomenal product I highly recommend it.
@ Robert Clifford Where do you buy the Mobil 1 at? I can only find it on Ebay and it's like $30 a quart!
@@obeconoberougle9497 it's readily available in most other countries.
@ Robert Clifford I did some research and found out that it's not just been pulled from the shelves in the U.S. It's a completely discontinued product. That explains the outrageous price for what remains available.
@@obeconoberougle9497 Last I knew it was still available in Europe, but that could very well have changed. Plenty of other options available✌
Bobe888, do you have input on Motul 510, Motul 710, and Super M? I'm looking for an injector oil that I can use in my old yamaha dt400 enduro, scooter, as well as premix at 32:1 for my husqvarna saws. Wondering if I should save the $10 or $13 per gallon and go with the 510, or pay more for super M or 710. Currently using saber at 32:1 in the saws, and happy with low smoke and low smell, but would like to switch to something I can also fill my lube tanks in my enduros and still burn clean with low odor and good protection. What's the best of the three for price point and given application?
710 and 510 would both work very well in your intended application. Super M is not an injector oil, it too thick and bad for the injectors.
@@Andyshine77 super m comes in an injector version and a premix version. They are two different products. With that said, the motul 510 is about $43/gallon, and the 710 is $56/gallon. Do you suppose the 710 is significantly cleaner and better than the 510? Can't find much info on the internet about 510
I doubt there'd be a huge difference, but I can tell you from first hand experience 710 burns incredibly clan. I forgot SuperM had an injector version, Maxima came out with an K2 injector oil about a year ago as well. Motul also make Scooter Power 2T, I don't know if it's less expensive or not.
I went ahead and bought a 4liter jug of the each the 510 and the 710. Couldn't decide, so I'll compare to see if the 710 is 20% more pleasent to work with. I'm sure they are both overkill in the engine protection category. If I can't tell a difference in how clean the exhaust is, then I'll stick with the 510 in the future. When working in the brush and cutting wood with saws and lingering exhaust, it becomes easy to tell if its clean. Husqvarna xp oil is an instant headache for me. Amsoil saber is a real blessing with low levels of noxious exhaust, but a little harder to get than motul.
@@michaelscafe2818 Whan I talked about burning clean I'm referring to the deposits left in the engine, not the smell. 710 isn't bad when it comes to small K2 has little smell I ln a warm engine, Saber and Dominator are very good in that respect as well. The worst is Stihl Ultra, and RedArmor. RedArmor is fantastic oil, but it stinks.
Yes sir i understand, but honestly none of those oils except for the stihl oil is designed for aircooled engine. oil per say like 2r or any of those r designed for liquid cooled 2 strokes, i could b wrong but. 2r i use to run in my yz125 changed the rings every month cause of racing and practice rides, it always had oil everywhere, the power valves it would have oil also but it was black oil, however it never got paste like. I trust your opinion however none of my saws r modded except for MM. 2r would b my choice over any of them. I have done experiments with turbine oil 32.1 , it did good just ashy. The oil i used was Bp2380.
Tony H Tony H I'm not sure where your information is coming from, all the oils I have in the video are for air cooled engines. It's literally written on each bottle. Generally air cooled oil will have much lower flashpoints than oils for air cooled engines. I've personally spoken with many of the Reps from several of these oil companies, including Maxima, Klotz and Fuchs.
Ash is a by-product of poor tuning, engine temperature, fuel and the oil, not just the oil itself. Stihl's oil is basically Castrol TTS, that is blended by Omni specialty packaging out of Shreveport Louisiana. In most countries the Stihl bottles will actually have Castrol written on the label. I have personally found Stihl Ultra synthetic to leave large amounts of carbon deposits behind at 50:1. It does seem to work OK in 4-mix engines. I'm currently running Amsoil Saber at 50:1 in my 4-mix engines.
2R is an excellent choice, but myself and others have found it lacks thermal stability in extreme conditions. It is a great performer in most applications, it burns clean and has great corrosion protection. This means it's great as a storage lubricant.
Ester based oils simply offer better protection under extreme pressure, rpm's and temperatures.
@@Andyshine77 "Ester based oils simply offer better protection under extreme pressure, rpm's and temperatures."
HP Ultra contains 80% trimethylolpropane, which is an ester. Also, speaking to some guy in Germany that worked for Stihl, he said the mixture is actually proprietary and developed by Stihl, and modified slightly every once in awhile to further optimize it (he said they were aware of an ash problem when it first came out, which was fixed). Regarding Castrol, he said they just hire other big oil makers to blend it for them, depending on the region in the world, they use someone else.
@@em4703 The Stihl oil sold in Europe is made by Castrol and is an OK product. Here in the US it's blended by Omni specialty packaging, and it's not a good product.
I use maxima formula k2 @ 32:1
Would the k2 injector be just as good?
Good question. No injector oil is thinned out in order for the injector pump to not work as hard. Injector oil really should not be used as premix oil, although some oils say they will will work in both applications, I don't recommend those oils as premix.
Husqvarna xp or ls+ and jonsered super pro is all i ever used never had a failure in my weed wacker
The newer XP oil is good stuff!✌️
always used K2 ..
I ran Castor 927 for a while at 32:1 in my 390XP, I noticed a bit more build up than I cared for, its a firewood saw so I don't have it tuned on the edge. I switched over to K2 still at 32:1, really miss the smell of the 927, was thinking about giving R50 a try, heard it smells great :)
50 smells good, but it burns dirty and robs a little power, I suggest sticking with the K2.
@@Andyshine77 Sucks R50 burns dirty, don't want that. Is 50 something that would be better at a bit lighter ratio? Something like 40:1 maybe?
No, it wouldn't matter even at lighter ratios. I ran R50 for quite some time to test it. R50 does offer great lubrication, it just unfortunately burns dirty. I really don't recommend any Klotz oils for use in a work saw.
Do you have any experience/opinion on Golden Spectro? The black and gold bottle. It's a synthetic/petroleum blend. I came across it and read some about it, mainly from dirt bike forums. A lot said it burns clean but seemed just as many said it burns dirty.
@matticus6339 Sorry, but I have no personal experience with it.
What would you recommend for a 50cc pit bike
Maxima Super M would be perfect for that application. As would Motul 710.
Zinc is commonly used in two stroke oils.
Some do, Motul 800 is a good example, but even than it's much less than a four cycle oil. Zinc does have it's place though, racing applications mostly. Zinc just leaves too much hard deposits behind, as it can't be burned off in the combustion process. 2T oils with zinc should really only be used in racing engines, much like castor oils, because those engines are rebuilt regularly. For the most part 2T oils have additives like PIB and or high end base ester stocks. Today zinc is even on it's way out of 4 cycle engines, do to it being hard on catalytic converters.
Thanks for your input.
What do you think about Saber at 50:1 and 40:1 ? Thanks
I actually started running it last summer in my weed eater and blower, so far everything looks excellent. I'm running it at 40:1 in most equipment 50:1 would likely be fine. It's a fine product, just stay away from the goofy 80:1 or 100:1 mixtures.
I've been running it 50:1 in my equipment , E free 90 octane.. But , for chainsaw milling 40:1 Everything runs and looks good. I appreciate your feedback ! Thanks
@@John_D2 Good deal. For milling I recommend nothing less than 32:1, but if you tune the carb plenty rich 40:1 will be OK, but I really like 32:1 in a saw use for milling, keeps the bottom end happy.
Sounds good , 4 oz per gal it is ! Thanks for the heads up.
What do you think of VP 2 cycle?
I have never used it, but I here good things, and it's JASO FD Certified, oils that meet those requirements are always going to be top of the line, use it with no worries.
Is 2 cycle oil same as bar and chain oil?
No! Not even close.
If you ranked each oil from best to worst how would you rank them
Good question! but I don't won't do that, each of the oils I recommend has it's place. Some are better in different equipment and applications.
@@Andyshine77 I run the Motul 800 2t at 50:1 & no complaints with 91-93 ethanol free with no complaints. Only time I run the Stihl HP is when I buy a new saw and get it to extend my warranty.
@@chrisp556 don’t run that stihl oil… just buy it for the warranty
Es sthil ms 440 2016 oils hp ultra 20 g 1 gasoline ok ?
I'm sorry I don't understand what you're asking
Ever try ams oil dominator? Has great film strength, smells good and is a thinner oil than motul 800 about the same as k2.
Yes I highly recommend it as well.
@@Andyshine77 Ever try klotz r50 and motul 710?
I ran R50 for a good while, incredible film strength, but it burns dirty. 710 I one of the best period.
I am undecided between husqvarna xp and motul 710 i think you prefer the 710 what would be the best dilution for 95 gasoline in europe? Thanks
40:1
@@Andyshine77 Thanks, and the 710 is better than xp?
I think so yes.
For a 33c.c trimmer?
Any two cycle engine.
Just ordered r50 for my new 390xp and 562 should I just get the k2
Robert Dishek
The 562 and all AutoTune saws have a hard time with the really viscous race oils, so a somewhat lighter oil like K2, Honda HP2 or Yamalube 2R would be a better choice. The 390xp on the other hand will have no issue with oils like R50 or Motul 800.
Thank you for reply could you recommend 1 oil for both saws so I don't have to mix 2 different batches
I wouldn't want that either, K2 is my personal choice, but HP2 or 2R would be fine in both saws too. Maxima also makes an oil called Super-M it's similar to K2 but not quite expensive. If you don't want to order online most motorcycle shops will have at least one of these oils in stock.
Thank you
Robert Dishek
You're welcome!
Forgot to mention Amsoil Saber is another alternative that will work well in both saws. Keep in mind that none of these oils will harm the engine, the AT systems just have a harder time with the thicker oils sometimes.
My R/C Glow Plug engine use Castor oil for Lubrication , the oil left alot of deposit in piston ring and Exhaust pipe. i think Castor oil is dangerous for every 2 stroke Engine
I think I'm with you there on my chainsaws, I switched from running stihl full syn mix in my fuel at 50:1 to running castor 927 50:1 yes castor smells great however for I'm noticing lots of carbon buildup on all the saws now... way too much carbon..... so I'm going back to using stihl hp ultra for my saws and weedeaters.
Ultra is garbage oil. 927 is great, but it has to be used in the correct applications, a chainsaw is not one of them. Go to home depot and get RedArmor oil offered by Echo, or use one of the oils I recommend in the video.
Maxima K2 or Super m
Honda HP2
Motul 710 or 800
Amsoil Saber or Dominator
Husqvarna XP+
RedArmor.
All top notch oils that are far better than Ultra.
nice beast ripper kipper
Where can I buy formula k 2 oil retail?
Yes motorcycle and off road shops normally carry it. If not one of the other oils like Honda's HP1, Yamalube 2R, are fine alternatives.
When its -30 below Stihl oil works great..
Where do you read film strenght ?
Technical data or MSDS documents, these are often found on the manufacturers website.
There was a guy around here who had a 572xp and ran husky xp oil then switched to Sabre and ran it 90:1 and the top end went it scored the cylinder and piston was finished, could be a million reasons why but only had 3 tanks of 90:1 through it and it went
I have no idea why anyone would run less oil than 50:1 which is the bare minimum. I guarantee the failure was from running not enough oil.
@@Andyshine77 People run less than 50:1 because SCAMsoil loves to make outrages claims about their products, and since they have a cult following people believe their claims. I once had one of their "dealers" (which apparently everyone who's ever bought a quart of oil from them is, so maybe they are also a pyramid scheme) tell me someone put sand in their transmission, and they didn't even know until 100,000 miles later because the oil is that good! Another said they broke their oil pan and drove home like 50 miles with no oil in their engine because again, their oil is that good. SCAMSoil might make the best oil in the world, but they are scammy as hell.
@@Andyshine77 motul 710 2t fulsintetik ok oil cheinsaw 50cc,60cc
Ciao amico cosa ne pensi di motul 710 e di sthil hp ultra?
710 is excellent, Ultra is not. 710 is a far superior product.
@@Andyshine77 grazie 🙏 e cosa ne pensi del mio squere graud dice Miscel Perrin che lo vuole provare
Which is the best oil Motul 800 or Bel ray h1r Thanks?
I would go with Mptul 800 in this case. H1R lubes just fine, however it seems to inhibit combustion.
Motul 800 road racing or off road? Which is better this chainsaw?
@@andreioachis3262 Either will work, but the off road is better suited for use in a chainsaw.
FLASH POINT; the liquid is put into a cup which is slowly warmed. At temperature intervals of one or two degrees, the vapors are subjected to an ignition source, the temp of the liquid, when the vapors ignite is the flash point.
There is open cup and closed, which one used is important.
@@Andyshine77 yes, true, the open cup give higher flash point because light vapors are lost to the atmosphere. (Just trying to help those who aren't familiar with flash point).
710 vs Husqvarna Two Stroke Oil XP, is that the same?
No different oils, Motul 710 is better.
@@Andyshine77 Specs look the similar, flash point etc.. 710 only price i almost twice cheaper 😁
Hi bobe! What about the belray h1r??
Great protection, seems to burn clean. However it doesn't like to combust well, so you have to open up the jets nearly 15-20%, fuel efficiency goes out the window. Plus many modern saws simply can't supply enough fuel without drilling out the jets. This is what I and many others have found. Again it lubricates well, but jetting is an issue in outdoor power equipment, for this reason I recommend something else.
@Andyshine77 I asked a similar question and this was the answer I was looking for. Thank you.