20r-0620 14:1 Caterpillar reman cylinder kits. 10R-7155 800hp C-18 Caterpillar camshaft. 10R-0959 reman caterpillar injectors 3rd biggest flowing injectors cat makes. Borgwaner 82mm with a 1.45 ar hot box, and a 7cz or 1mm 600hp flash and she will scream. The sky is the limit with custom tuning of course.
You can a big motor but if you don't have a good transmission then it's all for not. 18 spd trans is a good start but it will only hold up to 600 hp. If going more need to look into a transmission built by webber. They can hold up to 2250 ft lbs of torque also need a stage 2 or 3 lipo clutch kit as well. The conversion of the fuel tanks is going to be huge and expensive might want to rethink that. Also, once you take that sleeper off and put on the coffin sleeper that will give the unit the look "stretch" look you are going for.
@@ate0endrizzi i agree with everything except the 14:1, cold starts, running in the cold will smoke and run pretty shitty, 16:1 is way more usable and makes plenty of power for what hes looking for.
Yah, I'd definitely change the cab n sleeper before stretching the frame with how much longer a 36"sleeper will make it look, especially with the short top
Still wouldn’t be long tho. Every one will love it more after being stretched but the sleeper change first for now would definitely satisfy a bit of the itch
Order yourself a PDI in-frame kit. Have a reputable mobile machinist cut the counterbores and rebuild it in your shop. Eaton 13 speeds (you don’t need an 18 because you won’t tow that much) are a dime a dozen. Make sure it has the correct yoke on it! Also, get all the seals for the front structure, rear structure, front & rear main seals and a new oil pan gasket. You’ll need a reputable machine shop to rebuild the heads. After you tear it down completely, use mineral spirits to clean the block up, inside and out. Make sure your rods and rod caps aren’t stretched before you send the head off. On reassembly, get some aircraft head glue (it looks like tar) for the steel gasket between the block and spacer plate and a can of copper kote for the head gasket. The glue is going to make a mess but very much worth it, just don’t get it inside the cylinders. Also, if you have the right connections, get a marine cam and the C16 marine tune. There’s a shop near Houston that can get you both. When you run the overhead, set the valves about .001” tighter than spec with the marine cam. Next, find a stiffener plate from a 3406B and put that on bottom to alleviate most of the block flex and help prevent grenading the crank. Boost your fuel system with higher pressure regulators. If you can find a turbo from a C16, get it. It’s not a big deal if you can’t but will reduce your HP by about 75 wheel. With all the goodies, you should see around 1000 wheel HP.
I was also going to say the same thing. Inspect those ring gears. Check the airbags. Don't touch those brakes unless you know what "caged" means. I would also move the fuel tanks back towards the rear. Save your straps.
That's right. And in my experience people that go playing with them unleash that spring. So as a PSA, I put the correct term out there so people can look it up and be that much wiser. But thanks for chiming in as if you knew a thing or three.
@@frankrandol7998 been around trucks for 12 years. So i know a thing or four. Taking an air can off isnt dangerous. Dont try take it apart. Thats what will get you. So theres my two cents whether you wanted it or not
Hey Greg, the valve for the back of the cab is a leveling valve for the cab air bags, also, for the diffs all you need to do is reseal them, pull one of the bolts and match up some longer ones to use as studs and you can slide the diff out far enough to clean the gasket surface and put fresh gray silicone on it., also on the transmission thing, if it’s an Eaton autoshift trans you can convert it to a manual, you’ll need a pedal assembly and a shifter as well as a master cylinder and slave cylinder assembly
My brother in law stretched his to 297 wheel base. I've painted new front fenders that have the 4" lip, fiberglass step covers, 6" blanks that go under the cab and sleeper, tank filler, and the rear t-bar. Now we're replacing the 70" bunk to a 63 to make it look longer
I wish I could just talk to you on the phone. After 20 years driving truck, there's things I like that you're doing, and things that make me cringe. Oh, you don't need a 18 speed. You ain't doing heavy haul, get a nice 13 double over and enjoy!
You don’t have to do a lot to make power check out PDI in Utah for programming. A little more turbo will work well The caterpillar marine cam is good have fun
Jim Lowen you don’t have to do a lot to make big power but you do if you want to make it safely and reliably. Pdi isn’t what they once were either, a lot of really big names in the pulling/trucking world have completely turned on them over it.
Stretch it out, add the marine cam and hit up pdi diesel for a turbo, manifold and what they suggest for a fuel system. I’m a caterpillar marine mechanic with a lot of 3406e experience. Shoot me a message if you have any question
To stretch the frame look into getting a later model low leaf (peter-built) rear clip. It’ll ride better and sit quite a bit lower. Our 386 and 388 both have it and I’ve been pretty happy with it
The reason you see some with forward tanks, on a long wb tractor, it can be hard to get weight on steers, so depending what weight you plan to haul should make your decision, not just by looks, another option is get shallow kingpin trailer, i run 18", common is 24-36, but then can slide fifth forward more to move weight, you can also do away with behind sleeper air an power cord, run in frame to back of truck, modify trailer cord an air so mounts under trailer if only pulling 1 (same) trailer all the time, many show trucks do this to clean look up
Pretty sure the flat top Pete sleepers are shorter than the front section of the cab on trucks that came with a mid roof like your truck. I've seen a couple trucks had a flat top roof cap put on instead of the mid roof to match the height of the taller front cab. That would definitely be a unique look. So you will either have to do something like that, replace the cab with a flat top style cab, or stick with a mid roof sleeper. Either way, you'd better look into it some more.
Valve in the back is just the level system for the air ride cab. Easy fix. Also if you change 1 bag for the cab change ALL bags and shocks for the cab. Or you will be changing them all the time, one at a time lol
just start from scratch. all things you can do where it sits. drop all fluids engine, trans, rears... new oils. new filters air, engine oil, fuel filter, diff filter (if it has one) and water filter. replace all rubber and aluminum water lines. flush water system and pressure test for leaks. replace all clamps with proper clamps. replace all fuel lines with new clamps and proper lines. drain fuel tanks, clean and inspect. test compressor for how long it takes to charge air.....if slow ,pull compressor off and inspect, replace if need be....change air regulator on compressor. change hot line from compressor to air dryer. replace or rebuild air dryer. drain air tanks and inspect all fittings. replace as need be.... full wheels off and inspect brakes and wheel seals. replace what ever needs done all at once so you dont have to constantly pull wheels off just to redo one job at a time. . clean and polish wheels while they off. replace all brake air lines while everything is off.. jack up front and check king pins and bears for play. check springs bushings and hangers.... check all air bags for dry rot and replace if need be . maybe run a new air line from tanks to regulators in back for air bags and air cans... all air can pancakes replace. slack adjusters replace all grease truck pull valve cover off and inspect top end. have over head done if you can (id let a shop do this) . change belts on alternator, ac system. check ac system for charge... replace air dryer on ac system and the (small block regulator...I forgot what its called) recharge ac. check back sleeper ac condenser and blow dust off as needed. check for water leaks and replace water clamps and hoses in the sleeper hvac....if needed. replace all shocks. check engine and truck harness for dry rot. maybe replace the whole harness system and get it over with. otherwise it can cause you head ach later. check exhaust for leaks. you dont need to get sick while driving. pull fifth wheel and inspect, clean and replace bushings and rebuild it (cheap)... then the interior pull everything up. seats, sleeper cabinets, clean and check for rust or holes and repair as needed. install new wood floor. put insulation first then floor. repair and replace all broken items as you go clean the rest and re install. pull dash out and clean and replace what needs replace. check all light bulbs.....in dash. check all switches repair and replace as you go. as you do everything above: you will notice other issues along the way that you can do. the above things are all things i have done in my drive way and so can you. Engine internals , I take to the shop or dealer and just have then do all at once. Trans to shop. just eat it and get clutch, trans and everything related to it all at once. good luck. you should be able to do most of the labor yourself if your half way comptent, have tools and jacks for heavy truck. avoid the dealer. go direct to hose manufacturers for hoses, lines and clamps, buy on line what you can for much cheaper and have shipped to your house for free..... you can do this all in your drive way. it will take you a few weeks of 8 hours a day. plan your parts and tool runs out so you don't waste time back at forth for parts all day. stay focused and you can do all the above pretty fast..... when your done with all this, I can send you another list of things to get even deeper to this truck. Keep in mind, every cent you spend at home will save you a dollar on the road. road shops will kill you with rates and parts with no mercy and do a sht job on top of that.
I work on these all day. All the stuff you plan on doing is definitely a big job. Especially moving the air tanks. Unless you just use union's on the air lines that are to short rather then replace them.
I missed a few videos awhile back just super busy with work and life, I missed when the Pete was brought on, what your end game with the Pete? Pretty huge and expensive endeavour but definitely super fun and worth it. I move drilling rigs in northern Alberta and BC Canada, most of our trucks are c5 kenworth tri drives, 400' big bed sow trucks, 8×8 wheel drive big bed trucks. Tri drive commander. 45 ton pickers, 24 to 56 wheel + wheeler combinations. Lots of wicked iron to work on, have learnt lots over the last 8 years or so and couple heavy haul companies.
Move the fuel tanks under the sleeper have boxes for steps maybe do some custom ones but that looks way better in my opinion. Can't wait to see the progress
Very nice indeed..you can change the cab roof to to a standard roof.the ultra cab is going to look funny with the 36 flattop sleeper....or you can go with a 48” standup...love the black and chrome...
Put fuel tanks under the sleeper and put stainless or alluminum step tool boxes under the cab! It's a short hood so it will ride a little rough but with no weight should be ok! Also the longer the wheelbase it lowers the center of the truck then on driveways and ramps you scrap tanks or hanging frame !!!
Greg if the transmission is a eaton/fuller some of them you can delete the automatic shift top plate. And put a manual shift top plate on and you are set back up .provided you do some reprogramming of the engines computer also.
hey Greg nice Pete, I think some single round headlights might look pretty sweet on it, If you pull the diffs to re seal them a couple tricks I used to get them to go back in the housing is 1 don't put the sealant on until the diff is about an inch from seating 2 use a 15/16 ratchet wrench to run the bolts in slowly working your way around to get the caps to line up in the housing 3 use copper coat on the caps where they meet the housing 4 on the front diff with the power divider make sure the short bolt on the left is in place before it goes in too far or it won't go in later also I use a chain come a long around the diff to raise and lower the diff. hope this helps if you haven't had the pleasure of doing them before I have done a ton of them, good luck on the build
Car hauler front axle, and low air leaf rear. Wait to stretch until after you switch sleepers. The look will change alot when you do that. Marine cam and injectors. Need to move fuel tanks back under sleeper and battery boxes up so you can fit larger straight exhaust
When you take blocks out it can mess with drive line angle. U want tall rubber on steer to take up some of the fender gap. U can also get 2 inch drop fiberglass front fenders. If u stretch it get a flex air cutoff
RE: transmission. Is it an auto shift or a power shift? An auto shift is basically a manual that is shifted by the computer while the power shift is like what's in cars. I've heard an Auto shift can be converted into a true manual.
Philip Muth I believe it’s the auto shift. I saw a clutch in the cab. He may not have to get a whole new transmission just take the computer part out and put a stick in
Kills in white will work well on your OSB walls in the shop. A couple coats will turn it white. You can follow that with a color of your choice and make those shop walls look pretty good.
I have drove heavy duty for 48yrs, drove every type of tractor there is. I wouldn't stretch the frame, when you take the sleeper off it will give you the look you want. When you stretch you are opening a can of worms
If you are going to a 36 inch bunk you will have to change the roof on the cab because of the ulta cab you could go with 48 inch stand up and get a flat top conversion for it also 12 gauge customs sells a complete front air ride kit
You have a unbuilt ultra cab you would have 2 swap the roof cap and headliner on the truck to put a 36" flattop on it. Its doable however if it was me I'd put a 48" stand up without extenders.
I'm not a huge fan of cat I ran one back in 04 05 broke down a few times but past 15 years or so I've really fell in love with the dd15 I mean it has never giving me issues in well over a million miles!
That valve that's leaking is for the air bags it is what makes them go up and down I cant remember what it's called off the top of my head but it should be replaced
So many aftermarket things you can do the possibilities are almost endless 👍 pretty sure that's an ultracab like mine so if you want to go to a flattop,you gotta change the whole cab cap
Mark or Marc is a perfectionist. So are are you. That dude is definitely a badass. Need updates on your dodge that he painted around 04 era. I have one not diesel. Paint is awesome
Cummins are awesome an all but man I am STOKED, too see this truck come along. I’ve been here since the pull truck. If you do all the ideas your talking about, it’s going to be a mean looking rig
Martins peterbuilt in London, Ky has a lot of good stuff that is oem. Not sure on pricing or anything but they have anything you can think of or at least can order it.
flat top stacks, they sell t6 manifolds for them so you might be able to put a stainless s485 mobster or something on the larger end with a t 6 foot print
Look at the part number on the head if it has an R on it (which i dont think it will since it has paint on it) then it is a rebuilt head on it. And i would also put a new air compressor on it because it looks like the original and with the air leak on it that means that the duty cycle on it has been longer than it should and that definitely shortens the lifespan on the compressor itself .
36 inch flat top, 7 inch flat cut pipes, boxed end bumper, 24.5 low pros, move tanks back and put step boxes on, bow tie visor, shave turn signals on lights and put in trim blinkers, and if you want to blow it up go with pdi otherwise go bully dog
Just swap the shift cover on top the trans. Only difference is one has shift tower and yours doesn't. In frame overhaul will run 15 grand to do it right. Ie cylnder packs new bearings new head new cam and may need new rockers and shafts. Hood is gonna need both lower panels replaced the aluminum starts to corrode and will not stop.
I can see where you're headed with this project.. first off, let's get her torn down so we have a nice clean slate to build on and go from there. a 13 speed spicer and marine kit for the cat will definitely wake the old pete up and if you really want to go outlaw style, put commercial plane nose gear lights in the front bumper as fog lights
i cant remember the brand names but i have seen this on other lowered semis is a hydraulic or air lifted bumper so you dont scrap going in and out of drive ways you should get 1 if you are going to lower the ol girl
I personally run on my 6nz a set of 55 injectors, acert Twins, 800 horse cam and some fueling upgrades, it’s driveable runs cool and with a big program can put down some serious numbers. I’d personally stay away from pdi, and other big name companies. You can make good power off of factory parts. You can make close to 700 with stock injectors, program, raised fuel pressure, and a slightly larger borg Warner turbo.
get some chrome 8 inch chrome stacks, get some injectors done, get a marine cam for it, tune it , put a switchblade turbo in it.. black fiberglass fenders, alcoa dura black rims... chrome shop mafia has alot of their stuff on our trucks. drop the transmission to less gears since you wont be pulling heavy loads with it. 10-13 speed eaton fuller
Eaton ultra junk I’ve resealed those drive axles before, you’ll need to make some studs remove two bolts, install the studs remove the rest of the bolts slide the center section forward bolt a chain to one of the bolt holes use a fork lift maybe a cherry picker but I’m not sure if it will hold the weight, slide it forward and use some rtv to seal it then slide it back into place reinstall the bolts and it’s done you also need to remove the axle shafts
Man you should set that thing up for long trips hauling your big trailer with the drag truck in the back. Would look mean as hell pulling into the track with that set up
As an Electrician from a code standpoint. Your not allowed to bury that LB in the wall unless you have an access panel, or change it to a 90 degree elbow.
If your not gonna sleep in it put the cab extension on it where u can scoot the seat back slam it down with some big chino stacks and run it day cab that will give u the wheelbase look your looking for same some $$$ too
Im a technician at a peterbilt dealership in canada, i know these trucks very well and can answer many questions that you may have
800 hp marine cam...bigger turbo...injectors..and stretch it....10" str8 pipes
20r-0620 14:1 Caterpillar reman cylinder kits.
10R-7155 800hp C-18 Caterpillar camshaft.
10R-0959 reman caterpillar injectors 3rd biggest flowing injectors cat makes.
Borgwaner 82mm with a 1.45 ar hot box, and a 7cz or 1mm 600hp flash and she will scream. The sky is the limit with custom tuning of course.
Now we talkin' someone who knows how to freedom hard in a pete 🤘🏽 ...
She would be a deadly weapon in sled pulls if built right
You can a big motor but if you don't have a good transmission then it's all for not. 18 spd trans is a good start but it will only hold up to 600 hp. If going more need to look into a transmission built by webber. They can hold up to 2250 ft lbs of torque also need a stage 2 or 3 lipo clutch kit as well.
The conversion of the fuel tanks is going to be huge and expensive might want to rethink that.
Also, once you take that sleeper off and put on the coffin sleeper that will give the unit the look "stretch" look you are going for.
@@ate0endrizzi i agree with everything except the 14:1, cold starts, running in the cold will smoke and run pretty shitty, 16:1 is way more usable and makes plenty of power for what hes looking for.
Plus he wouldn't have to change it anyways 6nz are 16:1 so he can just slap the parts you mentioned and letter eat.
Car hauler swap front axel will give you the look you want
When you put a short sleeper on it will make the wheelbase look longer
Yah, I'd definitely change the cab n sleeper before stretching the frame with how much longer a 36"sleeper will make it look, especially with the short top
Still wouldn’t be long tho. Every one will love it more after being stretched but the sleeper change first for now would definitely satisfy a bit of the itch
Biggest problem with a stretches it's going to take acreage to turn it.
Saw it on the way home from work this morning. Gotta love Pete 379.
Saw it on my way to work Tuesday
What's the overall plan for the Pete. To tow the big race trailer? Or are you hoping to get a semi style race trailer?
Order yourself a PDI in-frame kit. Have a reputable mobile machinist cut the counterbores and rebuild it in your shop. Eaton 13 speeds (you don’t need an 18 because you won’t tow that much) are a dime a dozen. Make sure it has the correct yoke on it! Also, get all the seals for the front structure, rear structure, front & rear main seals and a new oil pan gasket. You’ll need a reputable machine shop to rebuild the heads.
After you tear it down completely, use mineral spirits to clean the block up, inside and out.
Make sure your rods and rod caps aren’t stretched before you send the head off.
On reassembly, get some aircraft head glue (it looks like tar) for the steel gasket between the block and spacer plate and a can of copper kote for the head gasket. The glue is going to make a mess but very much worth it, just don’t get it inside the cylinders. Also, if you have the right connections, get a marine cam and the C16 marine tune. There’s a shop near Houston that can get you both.
When you run the overhead, set the valves about .001” tighter than spec with the marine cam.
Next, find a stiffener plate from a 3406B and put that on bottom to alleviate most of the block flex and help prevent grenading the crank.
Boost your fuel system with higher pressure regulators.
If you can find a turbo from a C16, get it. It’s not a big deal if you can’t but will reduce your HP by about 75 wheel.
With all the goodies, you should see around 1000 wheel HP.
Ah the lost art of cutting counter bores haha
Greg, make sure and check the vents on the rear ends. They get plugged up and pressurize the rear end and cause those leaks.
Derek Schmucker was about to tell him the same thing. Pretty common problem.
I was also going to say the same thing. Inspect those ring gears. Check the airbags. Don't touch those brakes unless you know what "caged" means. I would also move the fuel tanks back towards the rear. Save your straps.
@@frankrandol7998 you only cage em to over ride the spring
That's right. And in my experience people that go playing with them unleash that spring. So as a PSA, I put the correct term out there so people can look it up and be that much wiser. But thanks for chiming in as if you knew a thing or three.
@@frankrandol7998 been around trucks for 12 years. So i know a thing or four. Taking an air can off isnt dangerous. Dont try take it apart. Thats what will get you. So theres my two cents whether you wanted it or not
Hey Greg, the valve for the back of the cab is a leveling valve for the cab air bags, also, for the diffs all you need to do is reseal them, pull one of the bolts and match up some longer ones to use as studs and you can slide the diff out far enough to clean the gasket surface and put fresh gray silicone on it., also on the transmission thing, if it’s an Eaton autoshift trans you can convert it to a manual, you’ll need a pedal assembly and a shifter as well as a master cylinder and slave cylinder assembly
My brother in law stretched his to 297 wheel base. I've painted new front fenders that have the 4" lip, fiberglass step covers, 6" blanks that go under the cab and sleeper, tank filler, and the rear t-bar. Now we're replacing the 70" bunk to a 63 to make it look longer
I wish I could just talk to you on the phone. After 20 years driving truck, there's things I like that you're doing, and things that make me cringe. Oh, you don't need a 18 speed. You ain't doing heavy haul, get a nice 13 double over and enjoy!
For sure 13 speed is plenty
Yah 13 is plenty for up to like 80k. Works with 105500 here in wa. But 18 is nicer for taking of on hills
I think stretching the Frame should be one of the first things
You don’t have to do a lot to make power check out PDI in Utah for programming. A little more turbo will work well The caterpillar marine cam is good have fun
Jim Lowen you don’t have to do a lot to make big power but you do if you want to make it safely and reliably. Pdi isn’t what they once were either, a lot of really big names in the pulling/trucking world have completely turned on them over it.
Stretch it out, add the marine cam and hit up pdi diesel for a turbo, manifold and what they suggest for a fuel system. I’m a caterpillar marine mechanic with a lot of 3406e experience. Shoot me a message if you have any question
To stretch the frame look into getting a later model low leaf (peter-built) rear clip. It’ll ride better and sit quite a bit lower. Our 386 and 388 both have it and I’ve been pretty happy with it
The reason you see some with forward tanks, on a long wb tractor, it can be hard to get weight on steers, so depending what weight you plan to haul should make your decision, not just by looks, another option is get shallow kingpin trailer, i run 18", common is 24-36, but then can slide fifth forward more to move weight, you can also do away with behind sleeper air an power cord, run in frame to back of truck, modify trailer cord an air so mounts under trailer if only pulling 1 (same) trailer all the time, many show trucks do this to clean look up
Pretty sure the flat top Pete sleepers are shorter than the front section of the cab on trucks that came with a mid roof like your truck. I've seen a couple trucks had a flat top roof cap put on instead of the mid roof to match the height of the taller front cab. That would definitely be a unique look. So you will either have to do something like that, replace the cab with a flat top style cab, or stick with a mid roof sleeper. Either way, you'd better look into it some more.
Valve in the back is just the level system for the air ride cab. Easy fix. Also if you change 1 bag for the cab change ALL bags and shocks for the cab. Or you will be changing them all the time, one at a time lol
just start from scratch.
all things you can do where it sits.
drop all fluids
engine, trans, rears...
new oils.
new filters
air, engine oil, fuel filter, diff filter (if it has one) and water filter.
replace all rubber and aluminum water lines.
flush water system and pressure test for leaks.
replace all clamps with proper clamps.
replace all fuel lines with new clamps and proper lines.
drain fuel tanks, clean and inspect.
test compressor for how long it takes to charge air.....if slow ,pull compressor off and inspect, replace if need be....change air regulator on compressor. change hot line from compressor to air dryer. replace or rebuild air dryer.
drain air tanks and inspect all fittings. replace as need be....
full wheels off and inspect brakes and wheel seals.
replace what ever needs done all at once so you dont have to constantly pull wheels off just to redo one job at a time. .
clean and polish wheels while they off.
replace all brake air lines while everything is off..
jack up front and check king pins and bears for play. check springs bushings and hangers....
check all air bags for dry rot and replace if need be . maybe run a new air line from tanks to regulators in back for air bags and air cans...
all air can pancakes replace.
slack adjusters replace all
grease truck
pull valve cover off and inspect top end. have over head done if you can (id let a shop do this) .
change belts on alternator, ac system.
check ac system for charge... replace air dryer on ac system and the (small block regulator...I forgot what its called) recharge ac.
check back sleeper ac condenser and blow dust off as needed. check for water leaks and replace water clamps and hoses in the sleeper hvac....if needed.
replace all shocks.
check engine and truck harness for dry rot. maybe replace the whole harness system and get it over with. otherwise it can cause you head ach later.
check exhaust for leaks. you dont need to get sick while driving.
pull fifth wheel and inspect, clean and replace bushings and rebuild it (cheap)...
then the interior
pull everything up. seats, sleeper cabinets, clean and check for rust or holes and repair as needed.
install new wood floor. put insulation first then floor. repair and replace all broken items as you go clean the rest and re install.
pull dash out and clean and replace what needs replace. check all light bulbs.....in dash. check all switches repair and replace as you go.
as you do everything above: you will notice other issues along the way that you can do.
the above things are all things i have done in my drive way and so can you.
Engine internals , I take to the shop or dealer and just have then do all at once.
Trans to shop. just eat it and get clutch, trans and everything related to it all at once.
good luck.
you should be able to do most of the labor yourself if your half way comptent, have tools and jacks for heavy truck.
avoid the dealer. go direct to hose manufacturers for hoses, lines and clamps, buy on line what you can for much cheaper and have shipped to your house for free.....
you can do this all in your drive way. it will take you a few weeks of 8 hours a day. plan your parts and tool runs out so you don't waste time back at forth for parts all day.
stay focused and you can do all the above pretty fast.....
when your done with all this, I can send you another list of things to get even deeper to this truck.
Keep in mind, every cent you spend at home will save you a dollar on the road. road shops will kill you with rates and parts with no mercy and do a sht job on top of that.
Chrome Shop Mafia Joplin Mo is great source for pretty stuff
He's taking all the "pretty" stuff lol
Joplin is so expensive.
Hes dosen't like chrome.
HolyGrail 95 he said he wants the truck to be black and chrome
@@curtisnoble. yeah but like i said he doesn't like chrome. Hes not gonna chrome it all out.
Blacked out polish the wheels, bumper, and tanks (keep them that aluminum color but polished) then straight 10” stacks (chrome)
Good taste!
I work on these all day. All the stuff you plan on doing is definitely a big job. Especially moving the air tanks. Unless you just use union's on the air lines that are to short rather then replace them.
I missed a few videos awhile back just super busy with work and life, I missed when the Pete was brought on, what your end game with the Pete? Pretty huge and expensive endeavour but definitely super fun and worth it. I move drilling rigs in northern Alberta and BC Canada, most of our trucks are c5 kenworth tri drives, 400' big bed sow trucks, 8×8 wheel drive big bed trucks. Tri drive commander. 45 ton pickers, 24 to 56 wheel + wheeler combinations. Lots of wicked iron to work on, have learnt lots over the last 8 years or so and couple heavy haul companies.
Move the fuel tanks under the sleeper have boxes for steps maybe do some custom ones but that looks way better in my opinion. Can't wait to see the progress
Hey greg that valve is what I believe to be a ride height valve, to keep the cab level, my Buick has the same kinda set up
Very nice indeed..you can change the cab roof to to a standard roof.the ultra cab is going to look funny with the 36 flattop sleeper....or you can go with a 48” standup...love the black and chrome...
Put fuel tanks under the sleeper and put stainless or alluminum step tool boxes under the cab! It's a short hood so it will ride a little rough but with no weight should be ok! Also the longer the wheelbase it lowers the center of the truck then on driveways and ramps you scrap tanks or hanging frame !!!
Greg if the transmission is a eaton/fuller some of them you can delete the automatic shift top plate. And put a manual shift top plate on and you are set back up .provided you do some reprogramming of the engines computer also.
hey Greg nice Pete, I think some single round headlights might look pretty sweet on it, If you pull the diffs to re seal them a couple tricks I used to get them to go back in the housing is 1 don't put the sealant on until the diff is about an inch from seating 2 use a 15/16 ratchet wrench to run the bolts in slowly working your way around to get the caps to line up in the housing 3 use copper coat on the caps where they meet the housing 4 on the front diff with the power divider make sure the short bolt on the left is in place before it goes in too far or it won't go in later also I use a chain come a long around the diff to raise and lower the diff. hope this helps if you haven't had the pleasure of doing them before I have done a ton of them, good luck on the build
Car hauler front axle, and low air leaf rear. Wait to stretch until after you switch sleepers. The look will change alot when you do that.
Marine cam and injectors.
Need to move fuel tanks back under sleeper and battery boxes up so you can fit larger straight exhaust
13 Spd
Twin Turbo
8 inch straight pipe
Camm
Shorten the sleeper
Tint the windows
Why twins when the C15 6NZ is desirable specifically for being a single?
Put a C16 single on it
Kelcey K I’ve seen a two with that setup. They were heavy haulers. Don’t think it would hurt especially if it’s just for show
Twins are a waste on a truck. Unless your making over 1k horse and using it for pulling
24.5 on low pro tires will make the truck look so much better
Kyle K I think he should put black American Force wheels on it.
When you take blocks out it can mess with drive line angle. U want tall rubber on steer to take up some of the fender gap. U can also get 2 inch drop fiberglass front fenders. If u stretch it get a flex air cutoff
RE: transmission. Is it an auto shift or a power shift? An auto shift is basically a manual that is shifted by the computer while the power shift is like what's in cars. I've heard an Auto shift can be converted into a true manual.
Philip Muth I believe it’s the auto shift. I saw a clutch in the cab. He may not have to get a whole new transmission just take the computer part out and put a stick in
Are you going to strip it right back & rebuild it from the chassis, any plans on the engine.
What exact transmission is in the truck you might be able to put a sifter on it because it maybe automated not automatic
Kills in white will work well on your OSB walls in the shop. A couple coats will turn it white. You can follow that with a color of your choice and make those shop walls look pretty good.
I have drove heavy duty for 48yrs, drove every type of tractor there is. I wouldn't stretch the frame, when you take the sleeper off it will give you the look you want. When you stretch you are opening a can of worms
i was about to suggest the oven cleaner. its also good for spray paint. just spray onto the rag and scrub
The standup cab looks real good with a flat top 63 inch or 36 inch sleeper and also switch the battery box and fuel tanks around
Remove front end spring spacers FIRST then work on front tires second third get front bumper. You can also get a front bumper flip kit
If you are going to a 36 inch bunk you will have to change the roof on the cab because of the ulta cab you could go with 48 inch stand up and get a flat top conversion for it also 12 gauge customs sells a complete front air ride kit
There's a peterbuilt shop an chrome shop south of you in Nashville on i24 .. it's maybe an hour south
You have a unbuilt ultra cab you would have 2 swap the roof cap and headliner on the truck to put a 36" flattop on it. Its doable however if it was me I'd put a 48" stand up without extenders.
Honest question, what’s the plan for this truck?? Haul the big trailer? Or just a show truck?
I'm not a huge fan of cat I ran one back in 04 05 broke down a few times but past 15 years or so I've really fell in love with the dd15 I mean it has never giving me issues in well over a million miles!
you have a ultra cab. there isnt a 36inch bunk for ultra cab. you can get a "flat top" conversion for your bunk, but no factory options.
Check the rear housings over very well we broke both on our 96 379 set at 600hp 2050t
Take the sleeper off completely. A long wheelbase day cab. 8 inch stacks. X2 on PDI for big rig performance. super single in the rear would be sweet.
4 videos in a week........ LOVE IT!
Freightliner frame rails will side on the inside of Pete frame rails makes it easier to stretch the frame.
That valve that's leaking is for the air bags it is what makes them go up and down I cant remember what it's called off the top of my head but it should be replaced
So many aftermarket things you can do the possibilities are almost endless 👍 pretty sure that's an ultracab like mine so if you want to go to a flattop,you gotta change the whole cab cap
So what is the end goal for the big rig? Show truck/ haul the race trucks?
If at all possible, you should put a 200 amp service in your shop so you have room to add equipment.
I have a w900 and a pete 379 both have cat motors and they run awesome and that pete you have is gonna look awesome when its finished
Mark or Marc is a perfectionist. So are are you. That dude is definitely a badass. Need updates on your dodge that he painted around 04 era. I have one not diesel. Paint is awesome
That air valve under the sleeper is the leveling valve.
Cummins are awesome an all but man I am STOKED, too see this truck come along. I’ve been here since the pull truck. If you do all the ideas your talking about, it’s going to be a mean looking rig
Martins peterbuilt in London, Ky has a lot of good stuff that is oem. Not sure on pricing or anything but they have anything you can think of or at least can order it.
flat top stacks, they sell t6 manifolds for them so you might be able to put a stainless s485 mobster or something on the larger end with a t 6 foot print
Look at the part number on the head if it has an R on it (which i dont think it will since it has paint on it) then it is a rebuilt head on it. And i would also put a new air compressor on it because it looks like the original and with the air leak on it that means that the duty cycle on it has been longer than it should and that definitely shortens the lifespan on the compressor itself .
Greg A can we get a tour of speed Kings?
What do you want for the sleeper?
Greg what are you going to do with all the lights you are taking off.
whats the truck going to be used for when finished greg ???
36 inch flat top, 7 inch flat cut pipes, boxed end bumper, 24.5 low pros, move tanks back and put step boxes on, bow tie visor, shave turn signals on lights and put in trim blinkers, and if you want to blow it up go with pdi otherwise go bully dog
airride by horse for the front axle air ride... best in the biz
Slam the Pete on the ground, extend the frame and leave the same size sleeper but a flat top. Sleeping in a 36 inch sleeper is rough
Just swap the shift cover on top the trans. Only difference is one has shift tower and yours doesn't. In frame overhaul will run 15 grand to do it right. Ie cylnder packs new bearings new head new cam and may need new rockers and shafts. Hood is gonna need both lower panels replaced the aluminum starts to corrode and will not stop.
I can see where you're headed with this project.. first off, let's get her torn down so we have a nice clean slate to build on and go from there. a 13 speed spicer and marine kit for the cat will definitely wake the old pete up and if you really want to go outlaw style, put commercial plane nose gear lights in the front bumper as fog lights
i cant remember the brand names but i have seen this on other lowered semis is a hydraulic or air lifted bumper so you dont scrap going in and out of drive ways you should get 1 if you are going to lower the ol girl
I personally run on my 6nz a set of 55 injectors, acert Twins, 800 horse cam and some fueling upgrades, it’s driveable runs cool and with a big program can put down some serious numbers. I’d personally stay away from pdi, and other big name companies. You can make good power off of factory parts. You can make close to 700 with stock injectors, program, raised fuel pressure, and a slightly larger borg Warner turbo.
From what I think I saw, that valve controls how much air is in your cab airbags, cab ride height valve
I know a guy at work in owensboro ky who has a 36in sleeper and is looking for a bigger one like yours. Want me to see if hes interested in trades?
Hunter House you will probably have to email him
Or dm on instagram
Yes absolutely man, email me gregalberalla@Hotmail.com with all the info thanks!
Check the vent in the drives any truck that's been off road they will fill with dirt.
How much for the front light plates that you took off
So now you’re going to get a flat bed so you can take the first second and third gen?
7 inch 379x stacks, delete the chicken lights at the air filters, smooth front bumper and polish the tanks and wheel. Also turn the fuel up
Keep the chicken lights. Needs them under the cab and sleeper. Gotta make it light up in the night sky man
@@levimartin6005 he ain't hauling a bull wagon.
Need a car hauler front end with airbags if you really want to get it slammed in the front
Definitely stretch the frame. Do some 8 inch stacks...polish everything up..air ride on front. Maybe a T bar in rear for lights.
Its a little farther than an hour but Davis Brothers in Poseyville Indiana.
Why not put the garage on its on meter? I keep my house/shop separate... think my average garage electric bill is 15-20 a month.
What are you gonna pull with it?
You want to be really different put a 15 speed in your rig! You will not regrete it once you get use to it , just a suggestion is all! Good luck
Wheres the dually
Just by giving it a 36 inch coffin sleeper will give it the look of being longer
22.5 back 24.5 front level the truck lot of peterbilt owners do it.
I work in Love's mechanic shop and we can replace all of them check valves and regulating valves for the air bags
get some chrome 8 inch chrome stacks, get some injectors done, get a marine cam for it, tune it , put a switchblade turbo in it.. black fiberglass fenders, alcoa dura black rims... chrome shop mafia has alot of their stuff on our trucks. drop the transmission to less gears since you wont be pulling heavy loads with it. 10-13 speed eaton fuller
Eaton ultra junk I’ve resealed those drive axles before, you’ll need to make some studs remove two bolts, install the studs remove the rest of the bolts slide the center section forward bolt a chain to one of the bolt holes use a fork lift maybe a cherry picker but I’m not sure if it will hold the weight, slide it forward and use some rtv to seal it then slide it back into place reinstall the bolts and it’s done you also need to remove the axle shafts
I would bet those are retreads tires in the rear drive axles. Stretch the frame 350
Unless you want to, you don’t need a sleeper they do have conversion kits and it makes it a day cab it would look super long with out it
There are some Canadian trucks that come into work with 255wb 389 peterbilts and they make them look nice. It can be done
Lincoln chrome, dyna flex, chrome shop mafia, trux accessories, a PDI for all ur pipes, visors ,lights, and custom parts
3rd member seals are easy to do. Dont waste time with a gasket. Undo bolts slide out the 3rd member and use (permatex) ultra grey to seal it up.
Coming to a diesel event near you wrench works brand new used race trailer family haulin machine.
Man you should set that thing up for long trips hauling your big trailer with the drag truck in the back. Would look mean as hell pulling into the track with that set up
As an Electrician from a code standpoint. Your not allowed to bury that LB in the wall unless you have an access panel, or change it to a 90 degree elbow.
If your not gonna sleep in it put the cab extension on it where u can scoot the seat back slam it down with some big chino stacks and run it day cab that will give u the wheelbase look your looking for same some $$$ too
I love big trucks and I cannot lie! You Otha Brothas can’t deny