Whew! Longest car project video yet. This was supposed to be a quick and easy edit but it quickly got out of hand, which is why after dozens of hours, three renders, and two upload attempts it is going live on a Sunday. I came across a lot of info that wasn't always easy to source in my research for this project, and I wanted to include as much of it as possible. There are some extra details to note: There are different designs of limited slip differential carriers, we are only really talking about the function of flat clutch disc types in this video. The Auburn that we install is an old GM factory unit to the best of my knowledge, which still uses flat friction discs but a lot of their newer carriers use cones. I'm calling this "on a budget" even though the differential cover was unnecessary and relatively pricey (~$130), but that is not the focal point so I don't feel that it is a false claim. We considered going with an automatic locker but this Auburn showed up on eBay and seemed like a relatively inexpensive way to get a name-brand LSD that might have slightly better street manners. Let us know what you think about the video! Too long? Too much extra information? Too much time spent on little things like the process (and failures) we went through trying to torque the ring gear bolts? Feedback is appreciated! Thanks for watching, hope you enjoy the video!
The video was good! I think you're going to like having the LSD as opposed to a locker anyhow. I have a luncbox locker in one of my cars and it's a little more noisy and clunky than most people want in a daily driver. If you're asking... the only thing I would have considered doing differently is sourcing an LSD axle from the junkyard, but with 3.73 gears already in it, and then re-gearing the front to match. 31s on 3.73s is just about the perfect ratio, IMO.
Great episode...wasn't too long! Ending was great. But get some actual gear marking compound, im sure you will be doing more work on differentials in the future!
It's pretty good, I like it and definitely don't mind the longer format. It's nice if there's some variation between episodes tho, some longer, some shorter. Maybe would be good to explain once how you research this stuff/where you get your information from/know which parts will work, that's what's keeping me back from being the backyard mechanic I want to be :P
Thank you I've heard that they can be unreliable so Eaton stepped out of the way and let their monopoly to the side road and let a couple of diesel company's making them Moore reliable than theirs I just didn't get a look at the item that's what I get for paying attention to the guy at the head of his class thx very informatible
The still images with highlights were a great addition and made this so much more viewer-friendly. So many channels are just people flailing around trying to describe what they’re talking about with hand movements. Your way is so much more logical and easy to follow. ✌🏼
God, I'm in love with this S10. Every little thing y'all do to it just makes it better, faster, tougher, and it's been a trooper the entire time you've owned it. This truck's gonna be a great one, I'm so glad y'all keep putting so much work and love into it
I have owned about eight jimmys or blazers over the years starting with an 88 an 89 and then another 88 and I have done virtually every thing except the V8 swap over the years with lots of repeats. You brought back a lot of memories of repairs. Made mostly on a shoestring budget. In those days I had to rely on friends, family and a fix your chevy book for info as the internet was just getting started LOL Thanks for the memories as Bob Hope used to sing.
I'm not sure if you read old comments, but just wanted to say i thought this series was bloody brilliant and i dont even drive!, i didnt understand half of what you were talking about but still found it compelling viewing and went through all 20 episodes, i started watching your pinto videos and when the first episode finished i went to your back catalogue....great videos thank you.
i just watched all the vids so far. i first did one of these projects in 1973 to a 72 ford courier pick up with a 289/c4 in an apt complex parking lot. i have done many since. when your old and gray you will always remember this truck and the things you learned about how to adapt and over come
When I changed my rear diff oil on my ZR2. I used a paper gasket but, used a paper thin layer of grey RTV as extra insurance just to fill in any imperfections.
Excellent video. Thank you. I do have a few suggestions for other viewers. If you plan to reuse your ring and pinion gear, measure your backlash prior to disassembly to make sure you restore it to the same position. Also measure backlash in several locations around the ring gear to make sure it is the same (within a .002" tolerance). This will make sure you have the ring gear fully seated against the carrier and you don't have a burr or debris between the two. Also red loctite is the standard for ring gear bolts.
THANK YOU for posting this! I don’t know if I would have had the guts to try. Just upgraded my ‘88 Blazer to a Posi unit and replaced the pinion/axle bearings and all seals. You rock!!!
Yes! I've been waiting forever for this! I actually just bought one of these last month and have been having issues myself with it. That aside, I've wanted to do the same thibf you've done with mine (350 V8 swap). This series is a big help.
I really appreciate that you went through the shimming process so clearly... the other install videos I've watched have had some miraculous luck with reusing the factory shim setup and seeing the adjustment process was really valuable. Thanks for the video and good luck with the truck!
Putting the diff in the freezer and heating the bearings was genius. This has video has given me the confidence to attempt this on my own car. My Crown Vic has a Ford 8.8 which isn’t much different at all. One wheel peel isn’t the best for snowy conditions…and getting stuck on a flat driveway cause one tire is on ice is embarrassing.
A quick tip for ring gear removal is that rather than using a prybar around the edge (which is tricky and time consuming) you can use a punch or drift. Find one that's a decent size, but fits within the ring gear bolt holes without interfering with the threads, and since those bolt holes are blind (obviously), you can just take a hammer and drive it off in a quick, criss-cross pattern. (Had to rebuild the 8.8 in the Fox a few times ;-D )
I have an 83 el camino with a open GM 10 bolt 7.5 differential and I've been planning to have the gears welded to have a posi for basically cheap, but after seeing this video I have the confidence of rebuilding it myself doing it the right way with better driveability when making turns than having wheels hops with a welded diff. Great video and stay safe out there.
I love these little trucks, in my area I see soooooo many of these still running and driving. Now I have to see about getting a limited slip for mine. Great video, thank you.
JOSHUA YEATTS , 96 Chevy S-10 and newer with the 4.3 engine had the bigger 8.5 rear end , the little 7.5 and 7.8 are just too small to handle V-8 power even if you put a limited slip or posi Trac unit in , the posi unit doesn't strengthen the rear end , it just distributes power to both Wheels
yay! happy to finally see an update on the Blazer. Hopefully you can fix the front end of it and making it look better soon. Plus it definitely needs a bullbar and some period correct fog lights.
09:40 The main weakness with the 7.5/7.625" rear end is the pinion gear on 3.73 and lower ratios, is a baby's fist, where 3.42 and taller gears are must bigger and far less prone to the teeth being striped off under heavy load. That cover may help the smaller 3.73/4.11 pinions survive a big power input as anything that minimizes gears moving away from each other on that little rearend is a good thing.
These differentials usually have the fill plug on the inside high up. I think that differential cover fill was designed with that height in mind as it’s close to that.
This channel has taught me the most important tool is ball joint press kit and mallet. If you need to hit something in and don't have a big enough socket? Ball joint press kit parts work wonders *apparently*
You have no idea how much I look forward to watching these vids. Gonna have to make a quarantine car mod list to get some shit done I've been avoiding on my 4runner!
Good catch on the torque wrench. I'm not sure I would've thought of that either before giving it a try. Now I'll remember this and be sure to start on top of it.
Very true story! I used to have a 2000 S10 with all the performance bells and whistles BUT a posi... Yeah I got "stuck" on a thin layer of ice on pavement... Yeah.... Fwiw, those wheel bearings make excellent wrist rocket ammunition! A friends dad was a mechanic and those things were in mountains in his dads shop! So... Yeah...
I've got an 85 s10 blazer 4x4 with a goodwrench 350 in it. Pulled the blown up t4 out and replaced with a 5lm60 5 speed out of a 1990 s10. Really is a joy to drive. Now I need a limited slip!
Get a Torsen differential out of a Camaro. They don't have clutches. You can get one from a place called Hawks Motorsports in SC for about $200. I just bought one for my S10 and they sent it right to me in 4 days. Its nice and smooth no banging or clicking noise around corners. And they'll last alot longer if you daily your truck. Differentials with clutches can wear out in as little as 30k miles. Most last longer than that but with a Torsen you don't have to worry about clutches wearing out. Zexel Torsen differential operates much like the Detroit True Track.
I wanted a clean metal surface to prevent the workbench from catching on fire or whatever, the aluminum lid was a nice surface to do that on. Macbooks are just so useful!
@@FuzzyDiceProjects dude please....for the love of a large four topping pizza and some garlic cheese sticks.. fix that nose! just a friendly suggestion!
Good upgrade! My truck has one, came stock with it's Z71 package. To test the clutches, use a torque wrench on the wheels, like you tightened them, and should keep 80 ft. lbs. with your torque wrench, for checking condition of clutches. Real easy to blow the clutches.
Good info! I read through a rebuild guide where they made a plate to bolt to the lug studs that had a nut welded in the center to turn with a torque wrench for totally accurate numbers, but I'd bet just using a lug nut as you described would be close enough for good info
It's not mentioned here but I bought the axle seals for the 78 Firebird six years ago and never installed them, so they were already sitting around. Not that it is a good defense of my actions lol
Cool enjoyable video thanks guys. Reminds me of adding lsd to my old towncar where unfortunately they decided to leave off the locktite on the ring bolts. Telling me after one shot through the cover it should've been ok. Since it was just a street non sport car.
A couple of thoughts: 1 - Next time you need to check a gear pattern, just use grease. Silver anti-seize works nicely. Then just clean it off before reassembly. 2 - Your front diff is still an open diff. You now have 3 wheel drive. No reason to expect it to spin all 4. GM just decouples one axle from the carrier while in 2wd (for reasons mostly unknown... Jeep stopped doing it 20+ years ago and I think GM is still doing it to this day). "Locking" the front end doesn't lock the carrier, it just engages the otherwise free wheeling axle. 3 - From my experiences as a TJ owner, and my GoogleFu telling me your Blazer only has a 4" longer wheel base than my Wrangler, now that you have that LSD out back you're going to want it in 4wd _any time_ there is _any risk_ of _any sort_ of ice or snow. In 4, or in normal conditions in 2wd, you've now got radically more traction than you once had (which you demonstrated nicely). However, on ice, instead of one wheel spinning and you simply losing forward momentum (also nicely shown), now _both_ wheels will spin and the rear will try to come around the front. Being such a short wheel base truck, this happens shockingly quickly, especially at highway speeds. I have a short stretch of actual high way driving in my normal commute and as soon as I'm in a straight line if the road is anything less that absolutely dry and the temperature is any lower than 32F, I slip it into 4. The slightly lower economy and increased tire wear is a small price to pay for not ending up dead, IMO. edit: Forgot one... Just toss your bearings, or whatevers, into a toaster oven next time. Much less screwing around and you can get exact what you want temperature wise. You're not going to effect the hardness at any temperature a normal oven can realistically achieve.
1. That is a fair point, I have heard of grease/antiseize being used before. 2. One of the other videos talks more about the front differential and the locking cable setup I switched it to. It certainly isn't a locking carrier, just the axle shaft to the differential like you said. That said, because the truck is so front heavy, it will usually spin both front tires even with an open diff. In the "snow donuts" videos you can see both fronts spinning together when sliding around. 3. I have not spent a lot of time driving a limited slip vehicle before, but that has been one of the arguments I read a lot about, and why I decided to leave my Silverado with an open rear diff. On one hand, people will claim that a locked/LSD rear is better because straight line traction is better and when/if it does slip it is more predictable. On the other, people will claim that it slips more often since the wheels want to move together. From my experience, there is value to both viewpoints, and either way caution is needed in winter driving for sure (as my fender demonstrates).
@@FuzzyDiceProjects 2 - Gotcha... You were just hoping for "hopeful". :) FWIW, 3wd will get you through an awful lot. Your weakest link now is probably tires more so than diffs and it looks like it's doing just fine with what it has. 3 - On your Silverado, the massively increased wheelbase gives you a lot more time to react than something like my TJ or your Blazer does. I'd do it on the pickup and not worry nearly as much about it as I would on the stubby Blazer. Just remember to put it in 4 if there's any risk at all and then you're golden. For one winter I had to make weekly 200+ mile commutes all the way across the nearly the entire width of Indiana and up to literally the shore of Lake Michigan. I did this in snow of at least 2", multiple times, usually running at least 60mph and sometimes more. I never had an issue as long as it was in 4. I do have BFG Mud Terrains, which are insane tires, but I feel like you'll be fine as well as long as you're in 4. So, put it in 4. Did I mention you should put it in 4? :)
My dodge dakota suffers from a similar issue of a light rear end and traction issues in 2wd. New a/t tires helped tremendously, but when you're given a $700 parts truck with everything you would need for a 5 speed swap, a differential upgrade, and 4 wheel disc brakes, including larger discs for the front, you very quickly run out of reasons to NOT install all these upgraded parts. The parts vehicle has an electronically activated transfer case, which is a big no-no. Currently, the plan is to use my current lever activated transfer case, extend the front driveshaft since the donor vehicle's was completely destroyed, likely due to a faulty 4wd switch, use the new rear driveshaft, since it matches up to the new rear axle, and trade out any input/output shafts between the two differentials to make the old case line up with the new splines. Since the differential is out of the vehicle, it makes no sense to do anything other than install a limited slip, and take a close look all the seals. As it seems to be slightly rusty, and the factory paint coating stuff is flaking off all over, we're also going to be refinishing the entire axle, likely using a bunch of high temp enamel paint to make it look sharp, instead of crusty. With the new, larger disc brakes, I am unable to use my factory 15" rims. One of the rims from the donor vehicle was seized to the axle hub, and decided it would be a better idea to bend than just release from the hub surface after some persuasion with a sledgehammer, so I'm also forced into getting new rims. With the factory body mounts, there isn't a whole lot of room to work around the transmission, and as I'll have to modify my existing crankshaft position sensor, it only makes sense to move the cab out of the way to do so. Fully removing the cab is a lot of work, and a lot of wire harness pulling, so we can't be doing that. However, the aftermarket is a wonderful place, and has 3" body mount spacers available to give you that little bit extra clearance to install this new driveline assembly. Luckily, the factory 16" rims from the donor vehicle seem to hold air, and have 4 decent enough tires to do some light testing, to insure everything is working properly. Unluckily, one of these tires has steel bands showing, and all 4 are rather weatherchecked. They're also a smaller size than my currently installed tires, which means my speedo would be off. Which really just means that these will have to be used for a giant stress test of the new brakes, the limited slip differential, and the new clutch. With prior mentioned condition of these tires, it doesn't make a whole lot of sense to go too far from home. To make a long story short, a brake stand will be necessary to insure all new parts are functioning properly.
One comment of concern. It is not advisable to leave the axles hanging in the case (it can deform the bottom of the seal) because of the weight. It might not be as critical with a new deal, but it will most certainly wreck an old one ( ask me how I know) after all your hard work to find leaking diff fluid leaking out the back of your drums . So in my opinion it's always best practice to leave the axles out of the housing. Keep up the great, informative content...Cheers!
I got an Eaton-style posi for my 94 Suburban. I just used a couple of cheap exhaust pipe adapters and a BFH to press the bearings on. Got the job done, but it made my right arm really sad and floppy.
I had a 98 ZR2 blazer. The posi and bravada axle swap helped alot. But cheap 31x10.5 M&T tires made it a BEAST. The increased tire clearance and 3.73s paired well with the 31s. Thinking your 3.08 and a 30 inch M&T would be equally capable.
My work has been out of ball joint press kits for probably 3 months now. We sent them back to our distribution center and we were supposed to get a revised version with stronger components. Still haven’t seen any news about these
Oh man! Left hand thread and the torque wrench only working in one direction! That hit me like a sack of mayonnaise! Definitely will file that one away in the garage faqs. It takes a while working with nuts and bolts to get to the point where you know by feel how stuff "should" be. When something feels wrong, stop. I've saved myself countless hours and hundreds of dollars just by stopping and doing a sanity check.
Adding posi to my 94 s10 blazer but not going with a friction type. My tundra has it and it’s lost it’s friction and hence, they fail as an open diff. Going with lunch box , g80 or gear style.
considering how well everything else seems to work now, it would be time to do something against all that rust. Maybe welding a few new sheets of steel everywhere and another coat of paint
hey, you might want to check your axle seals for any leaking here pretty soon, I've heard letting your axles sit on the seals like that for any extended period of time can slightly deform them causing leaks later on down the line. probably not super likely but it'd be a good thing to check just in case.
I cringed when he did that... But... He poked enough of them into the housing that most of the weight was probably carried on the axle bearings. Still, not ideal.
You can also go buy a couple hundred pounds of concrete sacks and just leave them in the cargo area. Will increase traction and more importantly help hanikg. That thing has to handle like crap with that little weight over the rear axle.
I need to put a limited slip in my 2WD F-150 with an 8’ bed. Darn thing spins that one wheel and struggles to move on anything that isn’t covered in concrete.
Whew! Longest car project video yet. This was supposed to be a quick and easy edit but it quickly got out of hand, which is why after dozens of hours, three renders, and two upload attempts it is going live on a Sunday. I came across a lot of info that wasn't always easy to source in my research for this project, and I wanted to include as much of it as possible. There are some extra details to note:
There are different designs of limited slip differential carriers, we are only really talking about the function of flat clutch disc types in this video. The Auburn that we install is an old GM factory unit to the best of my knowledge, which still uses flat friction discs but a lot of their newer carriers use cones. I'm calling this "on a budget" even though the differential cover was unnecessary and relatively pricey (~$130), but that is not the focal point so I don't feel that it is a false claim. We considered going with an automatic locker but this Auburn showed up on eBay and seemed like a relatively inexpensive way to get a name-brand LSD that might have slightly better street manners.
Let us know what you think about the video! Too long? Too much extra information? Too much time spent on little things like the process (and failures) we went through trying to torque the ring gear bolts? Feedback is appreciated! Thanks for watching, hope you enjoy the video!
Nah it's pretty good. Lots of good info. Good editing btw.
The video was good! I think you're going to like having the LSD as opposed to a locker anyhow. I have a luncbox locker in one of my cars and it's a little more noisy and clunky than most people want in a daily driver. If you're asking... the only thing I would have considered doing differently is sourcing an LSD axle from the junkyard, but with 3.73 gears already in it, and then re-gearing the front to match. 31s on 3.73s is just about the perfect ratio, IMO.
Great episode...wasn't too long! Ending was great. But get some actual gear marking compound, im sure you will be doing more work on differentials in the future!
It's pretty good, I like it and definitely don't mind the longer format. It's nice if there's some variation between episodes tho, some longer, some shorter. Maybe would be good to explain once how you research this stuff/where you get your information from/know which parts will work, that's what's keeping me back from being the backyard mechanic I want to be :P
eckspecially isn't a fucking word dude.
“Just a touch of anti-seize”
Is this character development?
my god i thought id never see you here
The greatest cross over in history 🔥
Most important quote of this channel “so we used this part from a ball joint press kit”
Thank you I've heard that they can be unreliable so Eaton stepped out of the way and let their monopoly to the side road and let a couple of diesel company's making them Moore reliable than theirs I just didn't get a look at the item that's what I get for paying attention to the guy at the head of his class thx very informatible
@@michaelbaldwin6317 what
@@panzermk4953 word salad amirite
Did anyone else notice that he sat the bearings on an old MacBook?
I paused to video as soon as I saw this to make sure someone commented about it.
I have no sympathy for the Mac, just as long as he realized what he was doing. Lol
@@GridIndustries I'm not upset but it still wouldn't be my first choice! Those old core2 powered Macbooks will still play minecraft at a decent clip.
Im a little butt hurt about it to, but tbh a macbook can handle 150F degrees anyways, Its dumb but hey, its doing him well lol
@@LianelJohnson LMAO me too!
The still images with highlights were a great addition and made this so much more viewer-friendly. So many channels are just people flailing around trying to describe what they’re talking about with hand movements. Your way is so much more logical and easy to follow. ✌🏼
God, I'm in love with this S10. Every little thing y'all do to it just makes it better, faster, tougher, and it's been a trooper the entire time you've owned it. This truck's gonna be a great one, I'm so glad y'all keep putting so much work and love into it
Move to the concrete floor when hammering things. You'd be amazed at how much energy is lost to a bouncy workbench.
What if you have a metal and concrete work bench?
Winking Walrus still
Winking Walrus unless it is 100% bolted the ground not moving when you hit it with a truck.
The amount of detail is appreciated. Keep on with the long videos!
I have owned about eight jimmys or blazers over the years starting with an 88 an 89 and then another 88 and I have done virtually every thing except the V8 swap over the years with lots of repeats. You brought back a lot of memories of repairs. Made mostly on a shoestring budget. In those days I had to rely on friends, family and a fix your chevy book for info as the internet was just getting started LOL
Thanks for the memories as Bob Hope used to sing.
I'm not sure if you read old comments, but just wanted to say i thought this series was bloody brilliant and i dont even drive!, i didnt understand half of what you were talking about but still found it compelling viewing and went through all 20 episodes, i started watching your pinto videos and when the first episode finished i went to your back catalogue....great videos thank you.
i just watched all the vids so far. i first did one of these projects in 1973 to a 72 ford courier pick up with a 289/c4 in an apt complex parking lot. i have done many since. when your old and gray you will always remember this truck and the things you learned about how to adapt and over come
When I changed my rear diff oil on my ZR2. I used a paper gasket but, used a paper thin layer of grey RTV as extra insurance just to fill in any imperfections.
Thank you for helping get us through this social distancing.🤗🤗💪
Excellent video. Thank you. I do have a few suggestions for other viewers. If you plan to reuse your ring and pinion gear, measure your backlash prior to disassembly to make sure you restore it to the same position. Also measure backlash in several locations around the ring gear to make sure it is the same (within a .002" tolerance). This will make sure you have the ring gear fully seated against the carrier and you don't have a burr or debris between the two. Also red loctite is the standard for ring gear bolts.
THANK YOU for posting this! I don’t know if I would have had the guts to try. Just upgraded my ‘88 Blazer to a Posi unit and replaced the pinion/axle bearings and all seals. You rock!!!
This is one of my favorite series. But the firebird series is also really good. I'm looking forward to that bigger engine! 😏
I love how the heat gun says Drill Master. You should replace the D with a G.
Yes! I've been waiting forever for this! I actually just bought one of these last month and have been having issues myself with it. That aside, I've wanted to do the same thibf you've done with mine (350 V8 swap). This series is a big help.
Do it! It's like these trucks should've came with a v8 option lol
@@joshuayeatts1504 oh yeah, definitely lol
It was really cool to see the whole process step by step and get a better understanding on how differentials work. Now get that reverse light fixed!
I really appreciate that you went through the shimming process so clearly... the other install videos I've watched have had some miraculous luck with reusing the factory shim setup and seeing the adjustment process was really valuable. Thanks for the video and good luck with the truck!
Hey Brother I just want to thank you and your friend for making cool videos like this
Putting the diff in the freezer and heating the bearings was genius. This has video has given me the confidence to attempt this on my own car. My Crown Vic has a Ford 8.8 which isn’t much different at all. One wheel peel isn’t the best for snowy conditions…and getting stuck on a flat driveway cause one tire is on ice is embarrassing.
Mate, your videos are way better than any TV car show. And I love all the Easter eggs!!!
This is my Netflix 😂 sippin Whiskey on the couch and fully locked in!😂
What an awesome build!! Way to go. It was cool to see you rebuild a junk vehicle into the monster it became.
A quick tip for ring gear removal is that rather than using a prybar around the edge (which is tricky and time consuming) you can use a punch or drift. Find one that's a decent size, but fits within the ring gear bolt holes without interfering with the threads, and since those bolt holes are blind (obviously), you can just take a hammer and drive it off in a quick, criss-cross pattern.
(Had to rebuild the 8.8 in the Fox a few times ;-D )
I have an 83 el camino with a open GM 10 bolt 7.5 differential and I've been planning to have the gears welded to have a posi for basically cheap, but after seeing this video I have the confidence of rebuilding it myself doing it the right way with better driveability when making turns than having wheels hops with a welded diff. Great video and stay safe out there.
I love these little trucks, in my area I see soooooo many of these still running and driving. Now I have to see about getting a limited slip for mine. Great video, thank you.
JOSHUA YEATTS , 96 Chevy S-10 and newer with the 4.3 engine had the bigger 8.5 rear end , the little 7.5 and 7.8 are just too small to handle V-8 power even if you put a limited slip or posi Trac unit in , the posi unit doesn't strengthen the rear end , it just distributes power to both Wheels
yay! happy to finally see an update on the Blazer.
Hopefully you can fix the front end of it and making it look better soon. Plus it definitely needs a bullbar and some period correct fog lights.
Nothing like seeing an upload from Fuzzy Dice Projects when you have a day off!
Ball joint press kit worth its weight in gold for all the different times it has been used.
09:40 The main weakness with the 7.5/7.625" rear end is the pinion gear on 3.73 and lower ratios, is a baby's fist, where 3.42 and taller gears are must bigger and far less prone to the teeth being striped off under heavy load. That cover may help the smaller 3.73/4.11 pinions survive a big power input as anything that minimizes gears moving away from each other on that little rearend is a good thing.
These differentials usually have the fill plug on the inside high up. I think that differential cover fill was designed with that height in mind as it’s close to that.
This channel has taught me the most important tool is ball joint press kit and mallet. If you need to hit something in and don't have a big enough socket? Ball joint press kit parts work wonders *apparently*
You have no idea how much I look forward to watching these vids. Gonna have to make a quarantine car mod list to get some shit done I've been avoiding on my 4runner!
Seal replacements are always so satisfying >:0
Good catch on the torque wrench. I'm not sure I would've thought of that either before giving it a try. Now I'll remember this and be sure to start on top of it.
this is my fav project of yours, good to see it again.
Very true story! I used to have a 2000 S10 with all the performance bells and whistles BUT a posi... Yeah I got "stuck" on a thin layer of ice on pavement... Yeah....
Fwiw, those wheel bearings make excellent wrist rocket ammunition! A friends dad was a mechanic and those things were in mountains in his dads shop! So... Yeah...
I've got an 85 s10 blazer 4x4 with a goodwrench 350 in it. Pulled the blown up t4 out and replaced with a 5lm60 5 speed out of a 1990 s10. Really is a joy to drive. Now I need a limited slip!
FWIW, I'd check into an Ford 8.8 swap for it. Explorer vs. Blazer has to be pretty close to the same width. Much stronger axle than the GM 7.5.
Perfect! Now I know exactly how to put a posi track diff in my '92 S10 pickup!
Get a Torsen differential out of a Camaro. They don't have clutches. You can get one from a place called Hawks Motorsports in SC for about $200. I just bought one for my S10 and they sent it right to me in 4 days. Its nice and smooth no banging or clicking noise around corners. And they'll last alot longer if you daily your truck. Differentials with clutches can wear out in as little as 30k miles. Most last longer than that but with a Torsen you don't have to worry about clutches wearing out. Zexel Torsen differential operates much like the Detroit True Track.
@@Thundarr995 Much obliged, I'll look into it.
Is there a reason that you used an old macbook as a holder for the bearings as you heated them up? I might use mine for that aswell if its a good way
I wanted a clean metal surface to prevent the workbench from catching on fire or whatever, the aluminum lid was a nice surface to do that on. Macbooks are just so useful!
@@FuzzyDiceProjects makes sense, never thought of that. Alright, time to use mine as an engine stand, i dont want my wood blocks to be dirty.
@@FuzzyDiceProjects dude please....for the love of a large four topping pizza and some garlic cheese sticks..
fix that nose!
just a friendly suggestion!
@@fgcarlover6112 😂
This channel just made my week man. Keep it up.
Changed the shocks too at the same time. Smart.
No shop press? Swing press to the rescue. Love the longer video.
I've got that same torque wrench. Glad you figured this out for me before I did something stupid.
Don't let my comments slow you down, this is how young men learn in AMERICA
Keep up the good work and be safe
As always, finished at max clearance lol, trans x works great. Lol! Well the blazer isn't knockin yet so kickass.
ChrisFix: Soapy Wooder
SouthMain: Brake Clean
FuzzyDice: Antisieze
Left hand thread is the devils work Thanks for sharing your LSD install.
Good upgrade! My truck has one, came stock with it's Z71 package. To test the clutches, use a torque wrench on the wheels, like you tightened them, and should keep 80 ft. lbs. with your torque wrench, for checking condition of clutches. Real easy to blow the clutches.
Good info! I read through a rebuild guide where they made a plate to bolt to the lug studs that had a nut welded in the center to turn with a torque wrench for totally accurate numbers, but I'd bet just using a lug nut as you described would be close enough for good info
I would not go past 80 ft. lbs. though. Anymore and probably snap the lug off. If you hear the click, then all is good. :)
Auburn does not use clutch packs, it uses a cone shape on the back side of th eside gears to directly engage the carrier housding.
Yup
Doesn't do race bearings because he's cheap, but does axle shaft seals because "Why not"?
It's not mentioned here but I bought the axle seals for the 78 Firebird six years ago and never installed them, so they were already sitting around. Not that it is a good defense of my actions lol
@@FuzzyDiceProjects No hate intended! Love your videos, keep up the good work.
@@FuzzyDiceProjects after watching your vids, i dont think there is much i wouldn't try and tackle myself, keep up the great work
@@FuzzyDiceProjects i laughed even harder
Great to have a friend that can lift the rear up
I believe the 8.5/8.6 rearends available in the S10 from 1995 up until 2004 were all equipped with 30 spline axles.
Both tires spinning, throwing dirt, and fishtailing - now you have a truck!
Thanks for the long video! I needed something like this to help my boredom! 👍(stay safe!)
Cool enjoyable video thanks guys. Reminds me of adding lsd to my old towncar where unfortunately they decided to leave off the locktite on the ring bolts. Telling me after one shot through the cover it should've been ok. Since it was just a street non sport car.
Huge upgrade! Those 4wd digs look sweet!
A couple of thoughts:
1 - Next time you need to check a gear pattern, just use grease. Silver anti-seize works nicely. Then just clean it off before reassembly.
2 - Your front diff is still an open diff. You now have 3 wheel drive. No reason to expect it to spin all 4. GM just decouples one axle from the carrier while in 2wd (for reasons mostly unknown... Jeep stopped doing it 20+ years ago and I think GM is still doing it to this day). "Locking" the front end doesn't lock the carrier, it just engages the otherwise free wheeling axle.
3 - From my experiences as a TJ owner, and my GoogleFu telling me your Blazer only has a 4" longer wheel base than my Wrangler, now that you have that LSD out back you're going to want it in 4wd _any time_ there is _any risk_ of _any sort_ of ice or snow. In 4, or in normal conditions in 2wd, you've now got radically more traction than you once had (which you demonstrated nicely). However, on ice, instead of one wheel spinning and you simply losing forward momentum (also nicely shown), now _both_ wheels will spin and the rear will try to come around the front. Being such a short wheel base truck, this happens shockingly quickly, especially at highway speeds. I have a short stretch of actual high way driving in my normal commute and as soon as I'm in a straight line if the road is anything less that absolutely dry and the temperature is any lower than 32F, I slip it into 4. The slightly lower economy and increased tire wear is a small price to pay for not ending up dead, IMO.
edit: Forgot one... Just toss your bearings, or whatevers, into a toaster oven next time. Much less screwing around and you can get exact what you want temperature wise. You're not going to effect the hardness at any temperature a normal oven can realistically achieve.
1. That is a fair point, I have heard of grease/antiseize being used before.
2. One of the other videos talks more about the front differential and the locking cable setup I switched it to. It certainly isn't a locking carrier, just the axle shaft to the differential like you said. That said, because the truck is so front heavy, it will usually spin both front tires even with an open diff. In the "snow donuts" videos you can see both fronts spinning together when sliding around.
3. I have not spent a lot of time driving a limited slip vehicle before, but that has been one of the arguments I read a lot about, and why I decided to leave my Silverado with an open rear diff. On one hand, people will claim that a locked/LSD rear is better because straight line traction is better and when/if it does slip it is more predictable. On the other, people will claim that it slips more often since the wheels want to move together. From my experience, there is value to both viewpoints, and either way caution is needed in winter driving for sure (as my fender demonstrates).
@@FuzzyDiceProjects
2 - Gotcha... You were just hoping for "hopeful". :) FWIW, 3wd will get you through an awful lot. Your weakest link now is probably tires more so than diffs and it looks like it's doing just fine with what it has.
3 - On your Silverado, the massively increased wheelbase gives you a lot more time to react than something like my TJ or your Blazer does. I'd do it on the pickup and not worry nearly as much about it as I would on the stubby Blazer. Just remember to put it in 4 if there's any risk at all and then you're golden. For one winter I had to make weekly 200+ mile commutes all the way across the nearly the entire width of Indiana and up to literally the shore of Lake Michigan. I did this in snow of at least 2", multiple times, usually running at least 60mph and sometimes more. I never had an issue as long as it was in 4. I do have BFG Mud Terrains, which are insane tires, but I feel like you'll be fine as well as long as you're in 4. So, put it in 4. Did I mention you should put it in 4? :)
Whenever you were going to black screen I wasn’t giving your puppy dog eyes I watch car stuff as I go to sleep
Great video glad you guys solved that one tire fire
My dodge dakota suffers from a similar issue of a light rear end and traction issues in 2wd. New a/t tires helped tremendously, but when you're given a $700 parts truck with everything you would need for a 5 speed swap, a differential upgrade, and 4 wheel disc brakes, including larger discs for the front, you very quickly run out of reasons to NOT install all these upgraded parts.
The parts vehicle has an electronically activated transfer case, which is a big no-no. Currently, the plan is to use my current lever activated transfer case, extend the front driveshaft since the donor vehicle's was completely destroyed, likely due to a faulty 4wd switch, use the new rear driveshaft, since it matches up to the new rear axle, and trade out any input/output shafts between the two differentials to make the old case line up with the new splines.
Since the differential is out of the vehicle, it makes no sense to do anything other than install a limited slip, and take a close look all the seals. As it seems to be slightly rusty, and the factory paint coating stuff is flaking off all over, we're also going to be refinishing the entire axle, likely using a bunch of high temp enamel paint to make it look sharp, instead of crusty.
With the new, larger disc brakes, I am unable to use my factory 15" rims. One of the rims from the donor vehicle was seized to the axle hub, and decided it would be a better idea to bend than just release from the hub surface after some persuasion with a sledgehammer, so I'm also forced into getting new rims.
With the factory body mounts, there isn't a whole lot of room to work around the transmission, and as I'll have to modify my existing crankshaft position sensor, it only makes sense to move the cab out of the way to do so. Fully removing the cab is a lot of work, and a lot of wire harness pulling, so we can't be doing that. However, the aftermarket is a wonderful place, and has 3" body mount spacers available to give you that little bit extra clearance to install this new driveline assembly.
Luckily, the factory 16" rims from the donor vehicle seem to hold air, and have 4 decent enough tires to do some light testing, to insure everything is working properly. Unluckily, one of these tires has steel bands showing, and all 4 are rather weatherchecked. They're also a smaller size than my currently installed tires, which means my speedo would be off. Which really just means that these will have to be used for a giant stress test of the new brakes, the limited slip differential, and the new clutch. With prior mentioned condition of these tires, it doesn't make a whole lot of sense to go too far from home. To make a long story short, a brake stand will be necessary to insure all new parts are functioning properly.
Your videos are amazing. Love this truck. Both firebirds. Keep the awesome stuff coming.
One comment of concern. It is not advisable to leave the axles hanging in the case (it can deform the bottom of the seal) because of the weight.
It might not be as critical with a new deal, but it will most certainly wreck an old one ( ask me how I know) after all your hard work to find leaking diff fluid leaking out the back of your drums
. So in my opinion it's always best practice to leave the axles out of the housing. Keep up the great, informative content...Cheers!
Lube locker diff sealer works very well and you can reuse them
I got an Eaton-style posi for my 94 Suburban. I just used a couple of cheap exhaust pipe adapters and a BFH to press the bearings on. Got the job done, but it made my right arm really sad and floppy.
5:25 heating bearings on top of a computer???
Oh, new Fuzzy Dice video. 43 minutes... I need popcorn.
Never whole ass one thing when you can half ass everything. -Fussy Dice. bahahaha. Just bugging. Nothing but love for the Channel.
yep, diff lock and awd really make a big difference in offroad
holy shit, that guy just picked up the backend of the blazer like it was normal.
I had a 98 ZR2 blazer. The posi and bravada axle swap helped alot. But cheap 31x10.5 M&T tires made it a BEAST. The increased tire clearance and 3.73s paired well with the 31s. Thinking your 3.08 and a 30 inch M&T would be equally capable.
My work has been out of ball joint press kits for probably 3 months now. We sent them back to our distribution center and we were supposed to get a revised version with stronger components. Still haven’t seen any news about these
Keep up the good work. You are going to have to step up your video's. We need more good videos to watch as the world goes crazy. 😆 thanks
Oh man! Left hand thread and the torque wrench only working in one direction! That hit me like a sack of mayonnaise! Definitely will file that one away in the garage faqs. It takes a while working with nuts and bolts to get to the point where you know by feel how stuff "should" be. When something feels wrong, stop. I've saved myself countless hours and hundreds of dollars just by stopping and doing a sanity check.
I mean this as a compliment but very few UA-camrs can produce a 40 min video that I watch all of very interesting to see how to do this
07:31 My research indicates the all S10's from 1988 on are 28 spline axles, 26 was discontinued, please correct me if i'm wrong ...
Im gonna be that guy and say you’re supposed to torque the lugs on the ground 🙂 love the vids and dont really thinn it makes a difference
that's some good work there ! well done
It might not look like much, but it sure does sound good.
Awesome video and very descriptive. I have a 1988 s10 sport that I want to upgrade. Thanks for all the info.
Street burnouts next !! I'd get the 92S10 front end for it with the one piece grill and a new front fender .
I hope the next update on this build is a fender, bumper, and grill :)
Watch the banks differential cover videos, they will probably make you reconsider the fluid level increase
Adding posi to my 94 s10 blazer but not going with a friction type. My tundra has it and it’s lost it’s friction and hence, they fail as an open diff. Going with lunch box , g80 or gear style.
Just a tips if you want to get out the axle seal just use the axle as a lever to get them out
The amount of gear oil is about two and half of those gear oil bottles. Had to pull the diff apart the other day on my 89 s10 to take out the axles
considering how well everything else seems to work now, it would be time to do something against all that rust. Maybe welding a few new sheets of steel everywhere and another coat of paint
Yeah, she really needs some body work. The rust is really eating through the paint.
hey, you might want to check your axle seals for any leaking here pretty soon, I've heard letting your axles sit on the seals like that for any extended period of time can slightly deform them causing leaks later on down the line. probably not super likely but it'd be a good thing to check just in case.
I cringed when he did that... But... He poked enough of them into the housing that most of the weight was probably carried on the axle bearings. Still, not ideal.
You can also go buy a couple hundred pounds of concrete sacks and just leave them in the cargo area. Will increase traction and more importantly help hanikg. That thing has to handle like crap with that little weight over the rear axle.
great video and build- i think bout installing an auborn posi instead of my broken g80 locker ;-)
I now feel like doing this to my (new to me ) 98 Sonoma just for good measure one day
I 100% recommend Lincoln Locking your diff I do it right with plates Ive never had one give up yet Lincoln Lock it..........
On my 98 S-10 The loose Steering was because of the Rubber Damper between the steering shaft and the Steering box was worn out.
the Fuzzy Dice ( Rally Chevy blazer ) Dakar or Baja build. would love to see that!
34:38 use a garden sprayer to fill diffs & gearboxes.
I was making love in The woods and my blazer got stuck on groundhog mounds so the police caught us!! Damn groundhogs chucking my wood!!!
I'm concerned who you were making love with that the police had to be involved
@@AlexReiterProductions it was the woods, it doesnt matter who your doing...
I need to put a limited slip in my 2WD F-150 with an 8’ bed. Darn thing spins that one wheel and struggles to move on anything that isn’t covered in concrete.
For some lol reminds me of a monster truck with dirt flying everywhere least you get a free till for planting.