V8 S10 4x4 Upgrades, Repairs, and Adventures (Ep.16)
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- Опубліковано 16 вер 2024
- We have been through a lot with this S10 but it hasn't been on the channel in a while, so lets get caught up! There have been quite a few small repairs made and we will cover most of them in this video, as well as share some of the adventures we have had over the course of the year with the truck!
Timeline of filming: February 14th, 2018 - July 19th, 2018
Song List (Order of First Appearance):
0:01 Gotta Find Out - Silent Partner
5:36 To the Top - Silent Partner
7:47 Reasons to Smile - Topher Mohr and Alex Elena
13:00 Daisy Dukes - Silent Partner
18:25 Off the Rebound - Silent Partner
21:01 Keep Dreaming - Topher Mohr and Alex Elena
(All music provided by UA-cam's Audio Library royalty free.)
Thanks for watching, and joining us on this adventure! Please let us know what you think!
Back by popular demand! We will probably have a small video for next Friday (14th) and then tear into the Silverado's transfer case the week after that (21st). We are also planning to do a small Q&A special for the end of the year, reply to this comment with your questions or shoot us an email at fuzzydiceprojectschannel@gmail.com!
Fuzzy Dice Projects do you think that you will dabble into more technical projects and great detail like the transmission and engine rebuild, or more similar projects like the Datsun where it’s more of a “show and tell” style
What has been the most challenging thing about the Blazer V8 swap?
Do you have any plans on repairing the front left side of the truck? I mean, not bringing it to mint condition, just "getting things a little bit more back in place".
Are you ever going to fix the fender?
Can't wait for the transfer case ep. I want it now 😋. Please fix that fender on the next blazer ep. Thanks keep it up.
I work for Advance Auto Parts and thank you for being a good customer
favourite car show on youtube
It's great that you put so much love into this old truck. I hope you can do some body work on it too, looks like it needs it.
Can we please acknowledge how awesome of a mechanic you are!
I have a 92 S10 and wish I had the knowledge of you. I’ve done some work but I’m gonna try more with some things I’ve learned for you.
Nice work man👍🏾
I watched your v8 s10 build in one sitting. You described every little thing you did. I liked that.
Good job showing love to what others might have scrapped. Worth it. I speak as a chevette owner.
I love the philosophy of the cars on this channel "does it start? yes? okay lets go get it registered and fix everything later" kinda wish that were the case here in Australia but it does say something about road safety that we require roadworthy before registration.
Nice to see an old square S10 running around, I had a 82 for my first vehicle and an 89 4x4 for my second. I always had issues with the brakes on both, the ebrake cables seemed to relax over and over. I also had issues with losing the damn rear view mirror. My end solution was to weld a bracket to the roof that the mirror puck bolted to and it held the 3 years until the truck was totaled.
That rig belongs out here in the American West, on a dirt road in the mountains. You probably do too, the west still values ingenuity and self determination that you have. Good job!
Love following this build. I'm doing a 350 swap on my 89 S10 4x4 currently and have watched every one of your videos in this series. You do a great job!
Pretty cool! Glad to see more of the Blazer.
You've whipped it into shape. It still needs a little more love by stragtening out the drivers side fender.
Reminds me of me and my army green '99 Cherokee. Haven't done anything like a motor swap like you but I sure have put my blood, sweat and tears into that rusty thing. Don't ever plan on getting rid of it
I'm the original & continuous owner of a 1986 S10 4wd Extended cab Tahoe. ( I special ordered it from the factory). I'm enjoying watching these videos.
The same parts wear out on all these 1st Gen rigs at about the same time. And leaks galore. I gave up chasing them, because fluids are cheap.
But, the parts are now dirt cheap. For instance, In 2002, a clutch kit cost $230 at NAPA. Today, $65 on Ebay.
Was confused by the 3/8", 7/16" bolt on thermostat. Must have been replaced in the past, because the Idgits at GM had the bright idea of using all odd number metric heads on their hardware. With a few odd 16mm & 18mm thrown in. In the 80s, this made it a pain to work on, and necessitated the purchase of all new sockets and wrenches. The conspiracy theory of the time was they did it to force owners, who had mostly standard size wrenches, to take it to a dealer for repairs.
That lighted rear view mirror: They were too heavy.
When you rebuild your suspension / steering, use all heavy duty parts, grease everything every other oil change. An S10 is the same as car under that shell, not a real truck: The Blazer is a tall short station wagon and the S10 pickup is an El Camino. Treat them as such when off roading and they will hold up ok. Treat them like a 2500 and they will wear out fast and break.
I found this series looking for cool truck designs and watched the whole thing 😁
Glad to see the Blazer still running. My neighbor bought my old 86 and daily drives it. Has over 400,000 miles on it. Stock 2.8 is still running good.
Mike's Videos gotta 84 s10 2.8 4speed 4x4 i love it
Good job. Very inspirational to see you keeping an old truck running
Yes a new episode for the s-10!!! What about the fender!!!!???????? Gotta get that fixed.
Fixing that is on the list still, but some other things are more pressing. We do plan to eventually take care of that though!
@@FuzzyDiceProjects Nah, the fender gives it some character.. its like a scar! xD
I'm of two minds about it, on one hand I agree that it gives it character and kind of like it, but on the other hand I'd also like to get things straightened out. Only time will tell what ends up happening!
Silicone spray for the distributor and wires will help, light bead of silicone around the seams also on the mateing surfaces should seal it nicely.
I know a lot of people swear by the Ford Taurus/Volvo cooling fan upgrade but I got a generic puller fan and a thermostatic switch from ebay for less than $50 and my old Wrangler never went over 200 degrees. Worked great . I installed a kill switch on the dash so I could shut it off before a water crossing.
I've always heard to use Dodge Intrepid Fans that they work best
@@s10_4_life6 Lincoln, they pull some serious watts.
The Taurus fan is a good V8 swap trick.
Contours and mystiques share the same fans;)
The Volvo fan >
I own a MJ an this reminds me so much our first 2 years together lol it gets better. I’ve had my obsession for about 5 years and she’s a whole different kind of animal now.
It sounds good! Especially for such a mild cam shaft. Great video.
I hope you don't construe this negatively just because I have a bit to say. Consider me a brother in arms that has BTDT on some of these things...
Items of note...
1 - You mentioned having to do a lot of beating to get that rotor off. I feel your pain. Many moons ago I bought an OTC 6980 drum puller as it was the ONLY way I could get the discs off of my TJ. It's an expensive tool, but good God will you be happy to have it. Especially since your fleet is as old as mine and you've got plenty of drum brakes everywhere. Obviously you can use it to pull anything you want up to about 14 or 15" diameter. Works awesome for small engine flywheels...
2 - Stop using worm gear clamps. The OEs switched to constant pressure spring clamps 40 years ago for good reasons. As you saw on your own hose, worm gear clamps extrude rubber through their slots and actually become loser over time. That's never a problem with constant tension clamps. I suspect a constant tension clamp may not have leaked with that crappy radiator tank design either if it was oriented correctly (full strap side toward the missing 1/2 circle).
3 - I had an S10 give me a nightmare of a time getting the thermostat housing sealed once. I ended up with a stack of 5 gaskets with globs of RTV on them and letting it cure out overnight before it would finally quit leaking. Since then, I've switched to High Tack as a gasket sealer. I've never had another problem ever since anywhere that I've used it. High Tack is the bomb.
4 - Although your problem is nebulous at best with your cooling fans, consider switching out to a circuit breaker instead of a fuse. Then if there's a problem, the breaker will pop, reset itself, and you're back off to the races. It's possible that this could happen over and over again and you not even be aware of it. You may also consider utilizing one of the now many abandoned idiot light locations in your EFI dash for a fan status indicator. I'd personally probably tie it to a relay so it would only illuminate if something like the high beams (or dome light, or whatever you want) were on as well so I would have to stare at a glowing dash all the time, but you get the idea.
5 - I long ago learned that the only way to get a mirror reattached permanently is at an automotive glass shop. The autostore kits never work and glass shops don't charge much more than the kits that don't work. Last one I had done was $15 and it lasted at least the 5 years until I sold the car.
6 - Percy's Dead-Soft aluminum MLS gaskets are the way to go on manifolds and headers. Once you switch to them, you'll never go back. They're a little expensive, but they do not, ever, leak.
1. Nice tip! I have seen all sorts of methods to pull stuck drums loose including a come-along tied around a tree!
2. Fair point, I know I always over-tighten worm gear clamps, and cheap ones do tear up hoses. The mark left on that hose was pretty dramatic since I tightened it several times to see if it would stop leaking, it is abnormally bad. A constant pressure clamp that can expand and contract with temperature on a nice,clean barb fitting is probably the best choice admittedly. I usually just re-use whatever old worm gear clamps are sitting around.
3. Have heard good things about High Tack, will have to give it a try!
4. I actually got a cheap circuit breaker with a cooling fan kit, but didn't really trust it. Pretty sure the issue I had was with that the fuse wasn't correctly installed in the loose terminals of that holder, seems okay now. If I ever do a nice re-wire of things, I would like to have a thermostatic switch controlling the fans with a toggle switch override and a light to show when the fans are on, good idea about using the dash lights.
5. If the mirror comes off again, I'll probably take it to a glass shop to get it reattached. I assume they have much stronger adhesives than the parts store or even than GM had in the 80's.
6. Burned through two dead-soft aluminum MLS gaskets on the 78 Firebird's headers, but I always had issues with the bolts on them and have my suspicions about the headers themselves. Next time it's apart I'm just going to try it with a little copper RTV and no gaskets, I have been told to do that more than anything else.
And of course, I do appreciate the tips and advice! I obviously don't have all the answers, and have a lot less experience than a lot of the commenters on here. There are many ways to get things done, and I always want to hear about other options!
2 - Raid the junkyard for OEM constant tension clamps the next time you're out and about. I always hit fuse boxes (for fuses) and radiators (for clamps) when I go for anything else.
3 - I'm a big fan of it. I can't even remember the last time I used anything else.
4 - When I did the E-Fan in my 5.0 I went over to Napa and got a heavy, HEAVY, duty 50A or 70A breaker. I think it was something like $7. I don't blame you for not using a cheesy one, but "good" ones are quite affordable.
5 - Oddly, and I've had plenty to complain about with the General, I don't think I've ever had the mirror fall off of a GM. The oldest one in the fleet is a 74 that my Dad bought new. So... The stuff was pretty good back in the day, I guess. Fate seems to pick odd winners and losers when it comes to rearview mirrors...
6 - You're the first guy I've talked to that had problems with them, including a friend of mine with the most rigged of rigged CJ7s. AMC 401, mismatched cylinder heads, JC Whitney sidepipes, unknown headers from the '70s... Even his doesn't blow out the Percy's gaskets.
Anyhow... If you suspect you have flange problems, get a big piece of glass and the biggest piece of sandpaper you can find. Work the header flange in a figure 8 with the paper on the glass (and the glass on something flat itself). It might take 10,000 years, but you'll eventually get a flat header flange out of the deal for a couple of dimes.
I'll be honest, I subscribed only cause of this thing
I came for the Firebird and stayed for his editing and personality.
And the cool cars.
you are my most favourite u tuber you are so amazingly talented please keep doing what your doing even though i do not understand many of the more complicated things you do im still totally fascinated and in awe of your skills and honesty thanks so much for the entertainment take care
i did the jeep cherokee xj shaft upgrade on my 89 k5 blazer. it was a direct bolt in except for a little grinding to let the pinch bolt fit. it makes a huge difference. i picked one up from the junkyard for ten bucks. i read that they also work in third generation camaros and s-10s. you can also use chevy astro van shafts but they need to be modified.
Yep, that's the plan here! I have also seen people use parts from Fiero steering shafts since apparently they have solid u-joints too
I have a 00 s10 so that upgrade isn't a bolt on for me but I got a lower jeep shaft cut the u-joint end off and welded it to a chevy shaft replacing the rag joint. Never had a problem sense.
Man I love that blazer! A double core radiator sounds like a game changer for that truck. lol I was thinking about your exhaust cracking when you went through that water lol
It would only be an excuse for me to set up a quieter exhaust on it, so I wouldn't actually be that upset if it fell apart haha.
I had an 88 s-10 Blazer for many years. The only thing I never liked were the brakes. In 89 they offered anti-lock for the first time. I still have some new front trim pieces for it in the garage somewhere. I believe a front bumper, grille, bezels, and lower air dam. Any interest in these since my blazer went to the junkyard years ago? I am in Baltimore county.
The brakes have treated me well so far, albeit definitely no ABS so they will lock up if you ask them to. Suspension is so soft that it feels like it's going to do a front flip when you brake real hard though haha.
Thanks for the offer! The current plan is to make a new front bumper and get the inner/outer fender from a junkyard, and already have a core support I can use, but I might be interested in the grille and bezels sometime in the future.
I almost wonder if there was something wrong with your brakes... I've had an '89, '98, and current an '01 and they all had awesome brakes and none had ABS. All were 5 speeds though, which helps.
Man I am rooting for you and this S10 Blazer!!
Just a tip open the bleeder to push back the piston that way your not pushing contaminates back into the brake system
Good tip! Will keep that in mind for the future
Love the videos on the blazer. Keep em coming
Yes more work on the blazer lol I have a 92 s10 short bed and I'm taking the 2.8 5speed out to put in my 85 GMC s10 long bed gonna be a lot of work but well worth it in the end . Love the videos on this Chevy blazer can't wait for more 🛠
The good thing is tho that you already have everything needed to do the Swap, I'm doing a frame Swap on my 84 Blazer and just bought a Frame yesterday, So I've still got alot of work ahead of me Lol
@@s10_4_life6 yeah I only paid $300 for the 92 s10 because no title and has 337 miles but doesn't even sound or run like it has that many miles . but once I take engine and trans out will definitely do some things to the engine and the 5-speed that's with it needs a clutch so I'll be doing that as well. but my main problem I have is the 92 is a short bed and the 85 GMC is a long bed and the fuel lines will not much up so I'm not sure exactly what I'm going to do about fixing that unless I go to the junkyard and buy a whole fuel line set off of a junkyard truck that's a long bed and it had the 2.8 in it . And another thing is the 85 was a automatic but that's not too hard to fix that I just have to cut the firewall out and the floor defeat the shifter in the clutch and everything in but will be doing all of this soon as I can I don't have a enclosed shop so it's kind of hard right now winter time . 🛠
@@s10_4_life6 everything I'm doing and to the trucks is on my channel if u wanna check them out . 🛠
@@KnuckleHeadGarage27 Lol I know ur pain man, You should go check my Videos out, I don't have a Garage either, I'm doing all my work in my Gravel Driveway, But I done a 4.3/5 Speed Swap on my 95 S10 last year ( No Videos of that sadly ) but I'm building this 84 Blazer this year and so far it's going ok, I've got quite a bit of stuff planned for it & for the Doner Blazer I bought yesterday :)
Watchwed all 16 vids and enjoyed them. Thank you for posting.
Giving me hope for mine. It looks about like your episode 1 did, but it's running great now!
Love the videos! Camping was up near my area of the woods. Small world. New fan of your channel.
This is a great truck you built! Hoping you will also replace the fender and bumper too! Thanks for the videos!
Great video, I'm building a 84 Blazer myself right now, I've posted a few videos on here already about it, But I just picked up a New frame for it yesterday and I'm getting ready to do a frame Swap & I'm also thinking about doing a 4 Speed Swap too seeing how the Doner Blazer I bought has a 4 Speed Transmission in it, So this should be fun !!!
That rotor pitting is called Patina. It's 2019. 😁 your body lift affected (effected?) the parking brake cable location. It happens to all us lifters.
Is that a reman radiator? That could be why the fillerneck is odd.
I'm a Chevy guy and I've owned A LOT of trucks. I've never owned a Chevy truck that didn't throw it's too heavy mirror at me. I always used epoxy like you did. Sorry to comment so much. I just appreciate your "struggles" because I've been there. Not everyone can appreciate it, but I enjoy the work and I think you do too.
With a V8, I wouldn't go lower than a 3core radiator. Still need to change my single to at least a double for my Jimmy with the factory v6.
Thin layer "I Said 'Thin" of sealant along the bottom seem of the bottom of the radiator cap will help keep most of the water and moisture out of there. Try a spring loaded float needle in the carb. That will help keep it from sputtering when bashing through mud/water holes and rocks out on the trail.
I bought a 99, 2 dr, 4x4, V8, supercharged, Blazer. I just had the stock 4L60E rebuilt with the near highest durability parts, I'm having the trans tuned at the moment. After that, it's have the Vortec 5.7 looked at and upgraded to handle 10 lbs of boost.
You're pretty lucky. Here in Québec, if we want to put an old vehicle on the road, the DMV require a inspection where a little of surface rust and a non-working horn will make you fail the inspection.
I've missed seeing videos on the S10, also any time I'm in western Maryland I feel like I have to watch the road more to see if I see it in person lol
I used a drop of clear Automotive Goop on mine. It's been holding for 11 years now.
Thanks for sharing! I haven't actually used Automotive Goop before, I'll have to try it out!
My guy you are Innovative I mean I would of never came up that hose and zip tie trick for the E brake cable
My 03 ZR2 radiator leaked where the plastic tanks are crimped onto the core. Bought an after market all aluminum one. Success.
When I was trucking we had radiator hose made with silicone also water lines on our big rig engines they were great until they start to leak and no matter how tight you get the clamp they would always leak. The fix was to put on new hose and not over tighten the clamp.
Creative solutions! Love it. Well done.
Funny I have an 86 dodge w150 with a mild 318 and 727 automatic 3 speed rated at 305 hp, I had a 1968 800cfm (had to figure out my own linkages) Quadra jet on there and got roughly 11mpg, but due to the cast manifold and no carb spacer it got really hot and would evaporate the fuel out of the bowl after longer drives and sitting, therefore it took a lot of cranking to start after sitting. I swapped it for a edelbrock intake and a thunder series carb and now get 8.2-9 mpg but it runs much better. Your carburetor swap yeilded a very similar mpg change. I still loved the Quadra jet, it was a great carb.
Loving this series!!
DUDE I JUST SAW YOU ON 495!!!
That's funny, it's a small world!
Awesome video!
I'm going to start calling you Mr Ziptie! LOL
I'm not sure where you are, but here in Missouri we get pretty bad Winters and the state Dept pours salt and calcium chloride on the roads, which results in rust. We don't get it to the extreme that Eric at South main Auto does, but whenever I do brakes I coat the snot out of the rotor and hub with anti sieze and use brake caliper grease on all sliders and hardware.
We're in Maryland, so it varies from winter to winter but they certainly salt the roads here. Antisieze on the wheel side of the rotor is a good idea too, but on our vehicles the wheels usually come off often enough we haven't had any get stuck after the first time taking them off.
and here we can see a very rare event, break clean actually used to clean breaks hahahaha
I just had the same problem with the rearview mirror on my 89 S10 pickup. I accidentally knocked it off, and tried several times to get it back on the windshield with purpose made rearview mirror adhesive with no luck. Then I used some cheap quick setting epoxy from harbor freight, and it's holding just fine.
I'm not super familiar with the S10 trucks (I have an Isuzu Trooper, myself) but adding manually locking hubs up front helped my gas mileage a lot! Even in 2WD i can feel that noticible drag as the front axle turns. Also saves those CV shafts as well!
Love your videos, BTW, gives me a lot of motivation on my personal projects!
Don't think anybody makes lockout hubs for S10s, or if they do I'm sure they are specialty parts and expensive. The driver's front is always turning the CV and differential, disconnect is on the passenger side but it's still always turning the CV.
Glad you have enjoyed the videos!
I have a 84 s10 v6 and love it . Currently seeking a new carburetor.
My friend, it seems like this truck wants to die so badly, but you keep resurrecting it by hook or crook. I realise I exaggerate, but your downloads are most enjoyable non the less.
Great video as always!
I love your videos! Keep them coming
Sweet birthday upload
Great Vids man! I have a little 2dr 4X4 and a firebird also. My choice of 4X4 is an XJ that I scored with only 50k miles on it. My Bird is a bit newer than yours, it's a 91. If you ever venture over by the ADK mountains I'd love to hit the roads with you.
91 Firebird, eh? I like third gen F-bodies a lot too. 91 isn't my favorite year as far as the styling but it does grow on you...
Would enjoy checking either of your vehicles out if you are ever in the area!
I think you need wiper blades as well!!😀
Try replacing the heater hoses and the heater core if you're not getting enough heat. Mine heats VERY GOOD in the winter time. You might have a clogged heater core/ hose.
I have no real evidence to back this up but in my experience, I think the rearview mirrors falling off have more to do with the sun than with the cold. I've had 3 fall off from 3 different cars, all of which I have parked in the same spot, facing East and the sun hits the windshield for a few hours every day. I think that this causes the glue to heat and cool everyday and it will eventually just fall off. every time this has happened I have just used a kit from Autozone and never had any problems after that.
Keep up all the good work dont scrap it restore it it should last u at least 20 years👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Hey man. Nice to see a upload again 👌🏻 So happy when there is a new one out. Btw, why arent you using copper anti-seize? Its breaking down into a million pieces compared to copper anti seize, that isnt likely doing that. However, nice video - cant wait for more. Greetings from Denmark! 🇩🇰👋🏻🇺🇸
I have used both copper and nickel antiseize, never personally noticed a difference between them other than copper being more expensive. For things like spark plugs and exhaust manifold bolts, both types tend to gum up a bit, but it probably appeared excessive on that exhaust manifold bolt since the exhaust gas was leaking directly against it and carbon was mixing with the antiseize.
I've found the gray stuff to be generally thicker and stay on longer. The copper seems to wash away after a couple of years.
YES! NEW VID!!!
You should dive into body work and fix that front quarter panel for a video!
Body work videos if done right, can be a great video to add to your channel. Been following the Blazer since the beginning. Love the Blazer. I would own the Blazer.
Sorta jealous of the Blazer. Haha great vid man! Keep em coming!
Unfortunately I think it is too far gone. Somebody, somewhere with specialty equipment and/or an extreme amount of skill could probably straighten it out, but not me. If it was just the outer fender it would be worth a try, but the inner fender and core support are both completely collapsed in that corner. Many, many layers of steel would have to be worked and straightened out. In this case, replacement parts are fairly easy to come by and cheap, so that is the best solution. If these videos are any indication, we like to make do with what we have whenever possible, but those panels are just too far gone to get reasonably straight.
Glad you like the videos and the Blazer, though!
Fuzzy Dice Projects YOU REPLIED to my comment !!!!!! FANGIRLING haha that makes sense though. I was curious how far gone it really is. I figured it was more than just the outer metal. It’s unfortunate that it happened but it’s totally fixable and that’s the best part. I also see you like to make due with what you have. I do the same thing with my Jeep sometimes. I just put new Mickey Thompson’s on it last week, but for a long time my tires have been shot. I drove from Ohio to Florida, pulling a trailer, with them shot. I have gone wheeling, mudding, and trail riding with them shot. I made due with what I had. It’s what us car/truck/Jeep lovers have to do sometimes! Keep the videos coming. I’m speaking for all the fans. We LOVE them! High quality. I’d watch a you on Discovery channel if you had your own tv show!
Well... for us mechanics we know to pump the pedal after a brake pad replacement, but it's important to include it in next videos, I hope no one puts the car out of park and crash into something
, also Torque is not what's making it to leak, as you stated maybe the surface is not right, I never use a torque wrench until I need to tighten head studs back on, after that I store it and continue putting everything back with a trusty 3/8 or 1/2 ratchet, never had leaks.
I noticed that you used your tw to undo the exhaust manifold bolts, by that you are affecting calibration eventually, use a breaker bar or ratchet.
Nonetheless, it's a very nice beater hahaha! s10 pwr!!!
The torque wrench with orange tape is out of spec and used as a long-handled ratchet, not for the accurate torquing of fasteners.
Tightening one side of thermostat housing somewhat significantly more than the other can warp the housing and if it isn't flat keeping it sealed is more difficult, so even torque (whether by hand like you mentioned) or by torque wrench is the way to go.
I suppose I should have mentioned pumping the brake pedal before driving it, I said something about "after everything is back together we'll make sure the brakes are working" which I meant to generalize that, but since the rest of the process was shown in detail that should have been more clear. After doing these jobs on video so many times some things do slip through the cracks like that!
@@FuzzyDiceProjects Nice to know about the tw. Waiting for the next video!
I love your blazer videos!
Now, that's the way to apply anti-seize.
Good looking truck
Currently have injector issues with my 92 blazer. But with 250,xxx plus miles on the original 4.3 it runs hard. But definitely could be rebuilt since it burns some oil at startup lol
I have had to reglue the rear view mirror on my 2000 S-10 pickup twice now. JB weld it is the next time it happens.
I love my S10!.....
Hey your great
Good thing you didn’t hydro lock your motor. You never go through water that fast, a speed at a brisk walk in lo and second gear. I had water half way up my doors on my lifted chevy trailblazer even with the bumper making a wake up to my hood. meaning water was 3-4’ standing.
I don't think it would have gone that bad, just had enough water splash the air cleaner to thin out the gas and give the engine/carburetor a hard time. The engine of my 78 Firebird gets more standing water on it from driving in the rain. Was just looking to make a splash for the video and I figured it might stall out, I wouldn't normally try to crash into water at speed like that.
Been through my fair share of deep water in this truck and other vehicles, though admittedly if I cared more about that engine I wouldn't be so haphazard about it!
@@FuzzyDiceProjects would you care to share where the trail with the water is? I'm in Garrett County quite a bit and I love exploring new back roads. Thanks.
Nice work.
Try water wetter the stuff works we use it in our mud trucks keep up the good work
I have heard of water wetter being used for racing, hadn't considered it! Might be worth a try to get a little bit of extra cooling efficiency, thanks for the tip!
I think city of potholes award should go to Rockford Illinois lmao
This is a great channel.
Does anyone else find the clicking of the torque wrench satisfying?
If you are using RTV don't use a gasket. RTV should be used alone with clean surfaces. Or gaskets should be used alone. Gaskets absorb the fluid they are sealing and it swells them to help them seal. Old timers used to soak the gaskets before installing.
So cool dude!
If you change the fans out try the Concorde dual fans. I have a set on my s10 4.3 and they are overkill with a factory radiator.
Because of the shroud and the design of the fan blades, I don't think I could use that since there currently isn't enough space between the radiator and the engine to mount fans there. Have thought about trying to modify some parts and push the engine back and get a smaller radiator to move it forward into the core support, but what I'll probably end up doing is getting a 2/3 core radiator in there somehow.
@@FuzzyDiceProjects whenever I get around to v8 swapping my older s10 I plan to move the rad forward myself and I hope theres room. If you need measurements on the concorde fans I can measure mine.
I wanna see it crammed maybe in the near future I know it's just a budget type build but I think its add a bit of character for the body style lol
I must admit, I do not know what "crammed" means. What is it you would like to see done?
Small block Chevy thermostat housings ALWAYS leak 😂 it’s just part of owning one
I can't say I agree with your method of pressing the caliper piston back in considering the tool to do it "right" is like $10. But whatever works, I've done way way worse things to a vehicle in my time.
I've used C-clamps and caliper piston compressors before, but now I always just grab the channel locks to do it for speed and I really don't think it could hurt anything. The only consideration is that the force on the piston isn't dead center, but unless the piston is already cocked a little sideways and you apply an extremely excessive amount of force trying to compress it I don't think it could harm anything.
@@FuzzyDiceProjects Ive done this before and while it didnt hurt anything either, I have seen it tear the seals and surfaces. Im not saying it wont do the job, Im just saying I would personally do a different method. I do know what its like to have a beater truck and just kinda look the other way on some things lol
On a GM style caliper I've never needed anything more than my thumbs to push the pistons back. You guys might need some new calipers...?
Interesting! These calipers only have the square cut seal on the piston and the dust boot, they are very simple, I really can't picture in my head how damage could be done unless the piston gets cocked and excessive force is applied. I suppose the more extended the piston is, the more likely something could go wrong though.
And it usually is possible to push the pistons in by hand, especially if the reservoir cap is off
I usually just use a C clamp and the Old Brake pad to push the Piston back
Just use RTV on the thermostat housing.. if you feel the need to use RTV on both sides of a paper gasket don't even use one..
Buy permatex Right stuff RTV. The best sealing shit out there, that's all ive used for 10 years. Both in shops I work at and at home. It cost more but seals amazingly well. You also don't need to wait long for it to cure.
I use it on diff covers and fill them with oil within like 10 minutes of tightening the cover and never have leaks. Only downside to it is it can be hard to remove parts later on.
Also, you really shouldn't use grease on brake parts, particularly on the pads. If you buy decent quality pads you usually don't need anything on the back of them. But if you feel the need use a product made for it. I prefer the disc brake quiet stuff that comes in a aerosol can, sprays out red. You also should use a product like sil-glyde on the caliper pins, you can get a pretty big tube for like 10 bucks and it will last you a long time. It's also an excellent lube for Orings and various other things.
I don't care much for Right Stuff because as you said, it can be difficult to remove the residue of it. It does seal very well, but these cars are usually taken apart often enough it would be more hassle than its worth.
When it comes to brakes, lithium grease is lithium grease so high-temp bearing grease has treated me as well as the special brake greases that cost a lot more. Probably don't need to put any on the pads as they usually stay quiet anyway, just do that for kicks I guess. Helps keep things from rusting together, at least.
@@FuzzyDiceProjectsSeems you would be taking stuff apart alot less if it wasn't leaking...which right stuff generally doesnt...
Silicone grease is what's usually recommended for brake parts, hence sil-glyde. Because it can handle the heat and doesn't harm most plastics and rubbers that maybe on brake parts. Lithium can detoriate rubber boots on caliper slide pins and things of that sort. That's why sil-glyde is such a handy product, it doesn't hurt o-rings, rubber boots etc. Good for alot more then just brakes.
I misspoke, my mistake, the high-temp red bearing grease I use on most things is synthetic. Some kinds are lithium but the ones I like are extremely inexpensive and synthetic bases.
I don't usually have issues with gaskets leaking unless there is some failure to cause it, that thermostat housing was an anomaly (and the intake manifold sealing surface looks like the surface of the moon). Plus I keep changing thermostats out on it, but hopefully I'll sort out the cooling issue and can stick with a 195.
@@FuzzyDiceProjects yeah I'd be surprised if those greases are rated past like 325 degrees where sil-glyde is rated to like 425.. on the pins likely not a problem. Would be surprised if the grease on the back of the pad isn't melted away soon
Never noticed any burned or melted grease on the pads after removing them, but the cars we usually work on aren't driven particularly aggressively, except for the Datsun we autocrossed and I'm not sure if any grease was used for it. Have some brake-specific grease but it's more expensive and seems to wash off faster and only stick around on slide pins with boots.
Snorkel would be super cool
Do you need assistance with the overheating issues on your S10? My 2001 Oldsmobile Intrigue did overheat with the fans on, but when accelerating, the temperature did go back down. Found out the hose at the heater core was crimped in the rear where the ignition coil is at for the spark plugs. Also, my car was losing coolant, so I readjusted the hose and burped the cooling system by keeping the coolant cap off the tank, starting the car, and adding coolant to the full line. Heater works really good (180F) and I also replaced the thermostat, the clamp for the tank to the thermostat housing at the tank end since the old one was a PITA to remove since it requires removing the electrical box out of the way to get to the clamp, the coolant cap itself since the old one was going bad, and got the cooling system flushed.
Head gaskets are still good, which is a good thing, plus a bad gasket can cause oil to mix with the coolant and vice versa, white smoke in the exhaust, which the exhaust color is gray, which is a good sign. My car has a 3.5L Southstar V6 and has over 117K miles on it, and still needs work on it: fuel system (sending unit, fuel filter, EVAP Vent Solenoid by the filler neck, IAC, and TPS), suspension, brakes (pads, rotors, ABS), and the exhaust needs a patch at the resonator. Still runs smoothly for an 18-year old car.
I love working on vehicles that have 4 wheel disc brakes
I don't think I have ever seen someone intentionally double gasket something before haha.
so changing the intermediate steering shaft will make the steering better and stronger
Sand the button that holds the mirror also before glueing
Should have used flex seal instead
Sooo close to hydrolocking.. :)
Haha, I don't think it would have gone that bad, just had enough water splash the air cleaner to thin out the gas and give it a hard time. It turned over nice and easy when trying to restart it, and when it died it was a slow stall so I figured the intake mixture just got screwed up.
Another thing you can do to help the cooling is ducting to and from the radiator
What sort of ducting do you have in mind? Since they are push fans a radiator shroud wouldn't be useful. Since it gets warm coming over the mountains on the highway I don't think it's just an airflow issue, either the radiator just doesn't do enough cooling or it is a tuning issue
Although I'm sure that flat out not enough radiator is a realistic option, you may discover that your pusher fans are some of the problem. You're blocking a significant amount of the core simply by having fans in front of it.
It would be an interesting experiment to straight up take them off and toss them in the back* and see what it does on the same roads...
edit: *back of the truck, not radiator as I seriously doubt you could with your current setup.
That is true, since the radiator is a single core and not exactly huge I could see the surface area of airflow itself being an issue. And you're right, not enough space to put these fans behind the radiator. A very slim fan could fit, or doing some more work to move the engine back another 3/4" or so could work.
Any hope of anything like twin 10" pullers to get around the water pump and balancer? Pushers take about a 15% energy inefficiency penalty anyhow since you're compressing the air as you push it into the core. Pullers are strongly the better way to go.
Possibly, it'd be close but 10" fans at the edges of the radiator may be able to work