Here is a Link to Jeep Liberty 1998-2006 3.7L Water Pump: amzn.to/2K2lk4h Check out some cool tools that Ozzstar likes to use: www.amazon.com/shop/ozzstar. Feel free to leave a Comment and please Subscribe to see more future vids! Thank you!
This was great!! needed to learn how to take fan assembly off, and ended up learning how to repair and remove many of the parts. Thank you for the solid content!
Thanks for the great knowledge on the cooling system! I do not believe my 2002 Jeep Liberty Sport 3.7L V6 4x4 A/T has a fan clutch thingy, but i will be sure to check if it ever had one...since i have bought it used from a person that uh...obviously didn't have a clue on proper maintenance on older vehicles. So, i now have experienced a huge puke and a busted radiator (yes, the plastic on side holding collant ripped a gash the size of the side of the entire radiator out!). Parts are ordered! Again, many thanks again for the video! :)
Hey brother that was one of the most informative repair vids I have seen. Thank you for sharing the knowledge. My ‘04 started getting hot yesterday and it just rolled 200k still going strong. I paid someone to do it 6 years ago, I’m going to do it my self this time. Appreciate the tips.
Awesome video with great tips! Water pump and thermostat gasket leaks happened around the same time. 05 Liberty just rolled 280K! Hopefully a one time drain and fill!
@@ozzstars_carsWere up and running! I'm going to swap the temp sensor tomorrow. I think my heater core is toast and I'm going to replace that or isolate it. But we ran into town and back and didn't heat up!
Very helpful, and appreciate the detail in the fan clutch, however I recommend going with the correct coolant, so Chaos doesn't return. The wrong coolant could eat your plastic parts, from what I've researched, and may have caused the seal leaks I'm experiencing. Thanks!
I recently replaced everything you just did on my 2005 Liberty about 2 months ago. Now in the last 2 days I noticed when I was driving with my cold air on, not my ac, just cold air, the temperature gauge was climbing to well above halfway . I tried to bleed air out but not sure if that was the problem in the first place. The upper radiator hose is very hot but the bottom one never warms up at all. I have plenty of heat in the cabin. I'm not sure what is wrong especially since I just replaced the radiator, water pump, thermostat, hoses and the belt.
I would test that aftermarket thermostat and make sure it was installed in the correct direction and testing correctly. NEW= never ever worked. Water pump circulation correctly and is the correct pump? Lots to look at. You don't want the car to overheat and blow a head gasket.
figara very detailed,well filmed,instructional video,you used upper grade rad.,changed a water pump that wasn’t leaking,a termostat that was still working and new hoses, which I agree with.why after all those choices to do a job that lasts did u use a universal antifreeze and not the recommended one for Jeep Liberty.....just a thought
Ozz, great video; I've subscribed and will surely be watching more. Need help though. 2002 Liberty Sport 3.7L is overheating as soon as we get higher than idle. Cooling system has been troublesome ever since I picked it up 2.5 years ago. Since then I've changed out the water pump (leaking bolts #4 and 5), the radiator (cracked mounts), and then thermostat and rad hoses since I was in there anyway. Now the overheat problem, seems like lack of coolant flow through the system. Suspected another bad t-stat, so swapped it out (it was) but didn't fix the issue. Barely got any coolant out of the system when draining it, although the reservoir started more than full. My bleeder port is frozen tight (breaker bar, penetrant, impact wrench -- all no luck) so I don't know how to vent potential air bubbles properly -- could this be keeping me from getting enough coolant in, or is there potential for a blockage somewhere?? Additional symptom is that the heat hasn't worked well in a long time. Thanks in advance for any advice.
Thanks so much for your video... and the bloopers hehehe... quick question... I just need to replace the water pump on my JEEP Cherokee Liberty 2006 but I don´t have a Torque Wrench for the screws.. what would be your suggestion of how tight should they be using a regular sized wrench...? Should I apply like 45 degree motion once they reach the block? or just once I feel they are tight... I know this question may dumb but I just don´t have nor can´t get one torque werch at this moment.
So, if all of the air is not out of the system, it will overheat, correct? I replaced my thermostat and everything else in the coolant system and it is still overheating. It is not losing any fluid. Could it be that I did not properly burp it?
All air must be burped from the cooling system. You did not state what car you are working on but if it has an electric fan or clutch driven fan they must be operational. The water pump has to also be pushing coolant. The radiator could be clogged up. Has a pressure test been done to check for a blown head gasket? There are many things related to proper cooling system operation.
I have a question for you, the clutch fan of your liberty goes faster when you acelerate the engine or lose speed?, i dont know if my clutch fan its broken, when i acelerate lose a bit of speed, by the way, nice video very useful.
Good call on the fan bolts. I used to help my grand-dad fabricate brackets to bypass the clutch on his fans. He'd put 'em on for towing. Of course, this was back when people towed travel trailers with 4-door family sedans :)
AutoZone Duralast brand electrical wire connector part# 445 Limited Lifetime warranty use to replace the cooling fan wire connector. If cooling fan stops working. Usually the wires gets burnt once a year if lucky once every three years or four
That's not fun. You can try using an extractor like in this link: amzn.to/32Bbu24 Make sure you have a new replacement hex cap after you take the old one out. You may even have to drill and use a square type of extractor. Good luck, that can be a headache.
like subscribing to helpful channels but I see no answers from you from questions. If you want to help people thats great but dont ignore when they ask for your help or its all for naught.
Good luck diagnosing a car over the internet. My videos are helpful and I do answer questions when they are appropriate. Maybe you should look at some of my other video comments? Thanks for commenting!
03 liberty, new thermostat, water pump,radiator, hoses, fan,relay, run all day in driveway. 15 minutes on road overheating. no heat in cab, runs like a raped ape. I have left bleeder cracked open for 2.5 hours. no more bubbles were coming out. heat was on high in cab. I have been told by some blown head gasket, others say bleed it more. no cap on radiator. will compression test on cylinder tell me if head gasket? should I keep bleeding?
Bleeding the air should not take 2.5 hours, more like 5 minutes after the engine has been warmed up. Make sure to do the procedure correctly. Also test the radiator cap, if it does not hold the proper pressure replace it with a NEW cap. A bad cap will cause issues like you described. Make sure the coolant level is correct. Then if all else fails do a compression test. Good luck, and let us know how it goes
Why did you replace all these parts in the first place? What were the problem? The water pump is unique in that the outside pulley can be spinning freely but the internal impellerr does not if its defective. Did you check that before the install? Is the car losing any coolant and is the recovery tank by the firewall at the proper level?
+Ozzstar my daughter did everything except electric fan and cap. it was overheating. no loss of coolant. I just wander if it didn't just need thermostat and they didn't bleed it right so they kept replacing stuff. till they dropped it in my lap. fan had a slight bearing issue so I replaced it. and cap was 10 bucks. holding tank full. no antifreeze in oil. no oil in antifreeze. out of ideas except compression check just to cover my bases.
Make sure the lower radiator hose is NOT collapsing when running at high idle. It should have a metal spring inside it, most aftermarket replacement hoses do not come with the spring. Reuse the OEM spring or get one. I have seen this issue several times. Perect when idling, out on the road engine does not have proper coolant flow. Squeeze the lower hose when it is cold, it should not collapse, if it does the spring is not inside there. You would see signs of coolant loss and poor running engine with low compression. Low compression would not cause lack of heat in the cabin, engine performance would be poor.
Here is a Link to Jeep Liberty 1998-2006 3.7L Water Pump: amzn.to/2K2lk4h
Check out some cool tools that Ozzstar likes to use: www.amazon.com/shop/ozzstar. Feel free to leave a Comment and please Subscribe to see more future vids! Thank you!
This was great!! needed to learn how to take fan assembly off, and ended up learning how to repair and remove many of the parts. Thank you for the solid content!
Your welcome Josh, thanks for stopping by and checking out the video. -Glen
Wow. This is the best video I’ve seen about the Jeep Liberty cooling system. I just subscribed to your channel. Greetings from Mexico
Thank you Jorge and welcome to the Ozzstar channel.
Thanks for the great knowledge on the cooling system! I do not believe my 2002 Jeep Liberty Sport 3.7L V6 4x4 A/T has a fan clutch thingy, but i will be sure to check if it ever had one...since i have bought it used from a person that uh...obviously didn't have a clue on proper maintenance on older vehicles. So, i now have experienced a huge puke and a busted radiator (yes, the plastic on side holding collant ripped a gash the size of the side of the entire radiator out!). Parts are ordered! Again, many thanks again for the video! :)
You are welcome Alfies. The mechanical fan with the clutch is for Liberty's with the heavy duty cooling system. Thanks for your comment!
Hey brother that was one of the most informative repair vids I have seen. Thank you for sharing the knowledge. My ‘04 started getting hot yesterday and it just rolled 200k still going strong. I paid someone to do it 6 years ago, I’m going to do it my self this time. Appreciate the tips.
Thanks Bill appreciate you watching and commenting!
Awesome video with great tips! Water pump and thermostat gasket leaks happened around the same time. 05 Liberty just rolled 280K! Hopefully a one time drain and fill!
Wow, I have never seen a Liberty with that mileage. Replaced engine? Thanks for your comment glad the vid was helpful.
Original motor, but had transmission work done twice.
Good lookin.. my wife's jeep will be mobile in the morning. Now that i saw your video, we saved $$$.
+Bernard glad the vid helped you out, thanks for your comment
Ok. I think I'm ready to start this. Excellent!
Take your time and good luck!
@@ozzstars_carsWere up and running! I'm going to swap the temp sensor tomorrow. I think my heater core is toast and I'm going to replace that or isolate it. But we ran into town and back and didn't heat up!
@patkelley8293 great news, tell everyone on the Jeep forums that the Ozzstar's Cars channel helped you out! 👍
Very comprehensive video! Thanks a lot. I'll be tackling this tomorrow.
You are welcome Ryan, thanks for watching
My inlaws 05 Liberty married Chaos! Changed the water pump, thermostat, radiator, and fan. Still overheats!
Chaos likes to cause problems that's for sure! Thanks for watching
thanks mate from Australia
Glad to help!
This video absolutely solved my problem!!! You're a rockstar!!!!
Glad the video helped Savanah!🤘
great repair log and hilarious bloopers, ozz! have a good one!
Thanks FPS, I appreciate your support! take care
Very helpful, and appreciate the detail in the fan clutch, however I recommend going with the correct coolant, so Chaos doesn't return. The wrong coolant could eat your plastic parts, from what I've researched, and may have caused the seal leaks I'm experiencing. Thanks!
I agree with your coolant choice but this car already had the mean green in it. ;-)
That radiator was probably the result of a deer strike. Same thing happened to me.
Oh man that sucks.
I recently replaced everything you just did on my 2005 Liberty about 2 months ago. Now in the last 2 days I noticed when I was driving with my cold air on, not my ac, just cold air, the temperature gauge was climbing to well above halfway . I tried to bleed air out but not sure if that was the problem in the first place. The upper radiator hose is very hot but the bottom one never warms up at all. I have plenty of heat in the cabin. I'm not sure what is wrong especially since I just replaced the radiator, water pump, thermostat, hoses and the belt.
I would test that aftermarket thermostat and make sure it was installed in the correct direction and testing correctly. NEW= never ever worked. Water pump circulation correctly and is the correct pump? Lots to look at. You don't want the car to overheat and blow a head gasket.
@@ozzstars_cars Thank you. I'll give that a shot.
@@ozzstars_cars Thank You. I checked the thermostat and I had put it in backwards. Thanks again for the suggestion.
@@backintheussr18 you're welcome. The tip jar is open. 😁
figara very detailed,well filmed,instructional video,you used upper grade rad.,changed a water pump that wasn’t leaking,a termostat that was still working and new hoses, which I agree with.why after all those choices to do a job that lasts did u use a universal antifreeze and not the recommended one for Jeep Liberty.....just a thought
Because the owner had already switched to the green good stuff, you know the "all makes, all models" lol
Ozz, great video; I've subscribed and will surely be watching more. Need help though. 2002 Liberty Sport 3.7L is overheating as soon as we get higher than idle. Cooling system has been troublesome ever since I picked it up 2.5 years ago. Since then I've changed out the water pump (leaking bolts #4 and 5), the radiator (cracked mounts), and then thermostat and rad hoses since I was in there anyway. Now the overheat problem, seems like lack of coolant flow through the system. Suspected another bad t-stat, so swapped it out (it was) but didn't fix the issue. Barely got any coolant out of the system when draining it, although the reservoir started more than full. My bleeder port is frozen tight (breaker bar, penetrant, impact wrench -- all no luck) so I don't know how to vent potential air bubbles properly -- could this be keeping me from getting enough coolant in, or is there potential for a blockage somewhere?? Additional symptom is that the heat hasn't worked well in a long time.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
great video thank you
Your welcome, I appreciate your comment, thanks.
Thanks so much for your video... and the bloopers hehehe... quick question... I just need to replace the water pump on my JEEP Cherokee Liberty 2006 but I don´t have a Torque Wrench for the screws.. what would be your suggestion of how tight should they be using a regular sized wrench...? Should I apply like 45 degree motion once they reach the block? or just once I feel they are tight... I know this question may dumb but I just don´t have nor can´t get one torque werch at this moment.
Great video buddy, liked & subscribed!
Thanks Lj, welcome aboard!
Ozzstar Glad to be supporting !!
LjGainzTV Subscribed back at ya!
Ozzstar Thankyou so much man - means allot!
pongo pulgar arriba porque mi liberty 2005 calienta y ya no se que hacer. se ha hecho todo desde lo mas simple hasta cambiar de culatas.
Well done , just new to your channel and I like it . You do great work. Check your PM when you get time .Steve
+Steve Rob thanks for the comment
upper radiator hose very hard why?
Time and heat will make rubber brittle and dry rot.
@@ozzstars_cars no I meant Pressure
do u need sealant around that thermostat housing? or is/was there a gasket on the thermostat itself?
Watch the video again, 5:30 mark I answer your question. Skipping through misses a lot of information. Thanks for watching.
@@ozzstars_cars opps :)
So, if all of the air is not out of the system, it will overheat, correct? I replaced my thermostat and everything else in the coolant system and it is still overheating. It is not losing any fluid. Could it be that I did not properly burp it?
All air must be burped from the cooling system. You did not state what car you are working on but if it has an electric fan or clutch driven fan they must be operational. The water pump has to also be pushing coolant. The radiator could be clogged up. Has a pressure test been done to check for a blown head gasket? There are many things related to proper cooling system operation.
@@ozzstars_cars it's a 2005 jeep liberty 3.7 l
Tank’s and good nigth
Great.
I have a question for you, the clutch fan of your liberty goes faster when you acelerate the engine or lose speed?, i dont know if my clutch fan its broken, when i acelerate lose a bit of speed, by the way, nice video very useful.
Fan speed depends on the temperature of the engine. The fan clutch is hydraulic and there are ways to test if its working properly.
how do i tests it Ozzstar? mine seems to be andle most of the time.
wow my 2005 liberty renegade only has the electric fan
Heavy duty cooling package towing had the optional fan
Hi I have a 2005 jeep liberty and it will start but will not stay on..also leaks out oil.pls help
If u are jump staying it, the first thing I would check for would be a bad alternator.
cool video I'm the same way hahaha
lol we all can't be perfect, right? Take it easy 57 and thanks for commenting
Good call on the fan bolts. I used to help my grand-dad fabricate brackets to bypass the clutch on his fans. He'd put 'em on for towing. Of course, this was back when people towed travel trailers with 4-door family sedans :)
Ahhh the good ol' days were so good! I miss those simple times.
AutoZone Duralast brand electrical wire connector part# 445 Limited Lifetime warranty use to replace the cooling fan wire connector. If cooling fan stops working. Usually the wires gets burnt once a year if lucky once every three years or four
@santos-sanchezharold2654 the real issue is why is the connector melting?
Steve R sent me. Good job, you showed the little things like the tab on the water pump O ring and thermostat alignment. Good stuff. Thanks- Doug L
Glad to see you stop bye. Attention to detail is how to get it done right! Thanks for your comment Doug, take it easy - Ozz
Ok what does it mean if the air is all out and then it starts to boiling in the left side of the tank
Boiling or exhaust gas from a defective head gssket?
Great information !!!.... Many thanks.
You are welcome. Thanks for watching
Gracias!!!!! I appreciate the details that are hard to find in other videos
72u2uuuu
Best video I've seen on this.
Thanks Pat!
My bleeder hex bolt is stripped any suggestions in getting it loose
That's not fun. You can try using an extractor like in this link: amzn.to/32Bbu24 Make sure you have a new replacement hex cap after you take the old one out. You may even have to drill and use a square type of extractor. Good luck, that can be a headache.
Ty that was a quick response
Gracias,de gran ayuda
You are welcome. Gracias por mirar y comentar
like subscribing to helpful channels but I see no answers from you from questions. If you want to help people thats great but dont ignore when they ask for your help or its all for naught.
Good luck diagnosing a car over the internet. My videos are helpful and I do answer questions when they are appropriate. Maybe you should look at some of my other video comments? Thanks for commenting!
03 liberty, new thermostat, water pump,radiator, hoses, fan,relay, run all day in driveway. 15 minutes on road overheating. no heat in cab, runs like a raped ape. I have left bleeder cracked open for 2.5 hours. no more bubbles were coming out. heat was on high in cab. I have been told by some blown head gasket, others say bleed it more. no cap on radiator. will compression test on cylinder tell me if head gasket? should I keep bleeding?
Bleeding the air should not take 2.5 hours, more like 5 minutes after the engine has been warmed up. Make sure to do the procedure correctly. Also test the radiator cap, if it does not hold the proper pressure replace it with a NEW cap. A bad cap will cause issues like you described. Make sure the coolant level is correct. Then if all else fails do a compression test. Good luck, and let us know how it goes
Yah that was another thing we had replaced was cap.
Why did you replace all these parts in the first place? What were the problem? The water pump is unique in that the outside pulley can be spinning freely but the internal impellerr does not if its defective. Did you check that before the install? Is the car losing any coolant and is the recovery tank by the firewall at the proper level?
+Ozzstar my daughter did everything except electric fan and cap. it was overheating. no loss of coolant. I just wander if it didn't just need thermostat and they didn't bleed it right so they kept replacing stuff. till they dropped it in my lap. fan had a slight bearing issue so I replaced it. and cap was 10 bucks. holding tank full. no antifreeze in oil. no oil in antifreeze. out of ideas except compression check just to cover my bases.
Make sure the lower radiator hose is NOT collapsing when running at high idle. It should have a metal spring inside it, most aftermarket replacement hoses do not come with the spring. Reuse the OEM spring or get one. I have seen this issue several times. Perect when idling, out on the road engine does not have proper coolant flow. Squeeze the lower hose when it is cold, it should not collapse, if it does the spring is not inside there. You would see signs of coolant loss and poor running engine with low compression. Low compression would not cause lack of heat in the cabin, engine performance would be poor.