Freaking love these trucks man, They are just so easy to fix and parts are cheap. My Old girl has 360K miles all original with the 5 speed, Still carries me to work every morning and runs like a sowing machine.
Was having a problem with my old blue stumbling and stalling. Tried different things. Egr valve was bad i replaced that. Then truck got worse so i figured must be a firing issue. I watched your vid and saw how u did your distributor and i went to advance auto paid $125 for brand new distributor and followed your instructions. Dude it runs like a new truck and thank u so much for posting this vid. These little 4.3 v6 engines are tough and hold up awesome plus easy to work on.
I'm glad you're back up and running Taz!! And that my video helped out to boot! 262,000 miles and still counting on the old truck, although, I no longer own him. Cheers! Zip~
@@ZippoVarga cool beans on the milage! My old blue is a 93 chevy cheyenne "mediterranian blue" color paint and after 26 years has 139,264 miles. Never tripped its original milage. Truck used to be my dads but he passed away in 2005 so now i keep old blue around to remember him by. Love the body style of these trucks and they not cluttered under hood with a bunch of junky wires,plastic covers and computer boxes. I have a flowmaster 40 series on it now but no pipes yet but it sounds beast way it is now. Great job zip and keep on rollin :)
Oh man, I think your video just helped me save my truck, I've changed almost all of my all my ignition parts, but the distributor has not been changed yet, it looks just like the old one you pulled out, thank you for the info 👍✌️👌
Hey Fred475, if you didn't find the brown wire yet, mine was behind and below the glove box under a little bit of the carpet, Not under the hood. It has a black clip that is flat and 1" long. You don't have to take the glove box out. THIS IS THE EASIEST way to nail a reinstall of a new distributor the 1st. time! Never attempted it before. Mark everything and it's a 2 hour job, maybe less for the 1st time! Thanks Zippo!!! It seems like an intimidating job before you do it but it's not! I followed your directions to a T and my 1994 W/T Long bed with the little 4.3(Feels like a 350 on the low end if you can believe it!). Guys/Gals, Change your distributors! I have a junky timing light so I'm not absoulty sure it's dead on 0 deg timing. If you have a lot of miles on your ol' boy. I'm at 293K miles just do it. You'll get more MPG and I guarantee it with a good replacement dist. I made the mistake of first buying one from the A website and it was junk. Walked to a local Advance store and their premium was about $140 after tax and "discount". DO IT!!! Thanks again!
I'm sure OLD BLUE will make it to 300K, with all the runs to/from Eaton. The Caravan rental made a handy "lumber hauler" yesterday. One of the reasons* I "benched " my '84 Subaru SW had some overly high RPM issues on cold start. The rental came with an Indiana temporary tag. *$2600 rust repair was the main issue. Very informative Video as always.
im about to set the timing in my truck same engine 93 thanks for the help i replaced only the pick up coil and so far its good just need to time it and your video was a good reference thanks! 93 2wd 4.3tbi dark blue 165,000 km
For the miles I had on my truck (258,000) and the price point of a complete Distributor, I thought...what the heck....I'll get the full meal deal and be done with it, but I could have gotten away with changing out just the pick up. As you saw, the wires on mine lost their insulation over time, and they were cross firing. I too had the 4.3, but this repair works on all V block small blocks of the time. Quite low KM on that 93! That's just 102,526 miles! You must take exceptional care of the old boy. Cheers! Zip~
Hi Zippo my dad 4.3 in his Chevy 07 his what bad to he has 135ooo on it good tuck the oil return hole in the hands need be cleaned thank for the videos keeping them come.
Papa Doug, yep...the 5.7 has the same oil return problem and they do need cleaned out once in a while. Old Blue's are free and clear, but it's time to clean out Clifford's. Good point for others to know, so thanks for posting this! Cheers my Friend! Zip~
Riveting video!!! A professional video. After some troubleshooting you narrowed this issue right down. The good GM's have the Distributor hiding in the back. (350 and 4.3) Nice 6 point wrench. Commenting as I go. -------------- I have been thinking of replacing the ZED but not yet. I talked to Mrs, Bruce and we are willing to put some major money into him as I only put 2000 miles on him a year. Funny he is a male. Probably a male as there hasn't been much trouble with him :-) We have to have 2 vehicles that can travel 4000 miles in one trip, without worry. Remember we are in Canada with lots of miles between cities. I am babbling. I am watching with great interest as a 4.3 is a 5.7 without 2 cylinders. Great mechanic work. I loved this. Looking into the future. Great shot of the helical cut gear. That is not easy work, huddled in there for a young man like you!!!! Good luck on old blue we are all pulling for her------------- him!!! All the best. the older i get the more i love these older trucks. Just watching this I am keeping the ZED. 186,00 kms which is 116,000 miles. I think even if I put 4000 dollars into him that is only 8 payments on a new one. .
Going to replace the distributor cap and rotor in Loretta (my '93 Chevy) this weekend, but I suspect the entire distributor may need to be replaced soon. I thought I'd watch a couple videos of the process just for fun. The crazy thing is I was born and raised in Eaton. I still live in Hartford City and work just northeast of Muncie. Small world!! This was a great video. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks Mr. Mule! All told, including the initial $600 purchase price, I've put $2580 into Old Blue to keep him safe and reliable. I sure hope he lasts another 42K miles! Cheers my Friend! Zip~
Thanks Bill! The only thing that would stop him is if he spun a main bearing or dropped a piston. As gentle as I am on the gas pedal, I think you're right...he'll hit the 300,000 mark with more to give. If the body holds on to the frame that long lol. Cheers! Zip~
Go on, my friend ... your mentality liked me I hope you will talk about the V6 diesel engines that are suitable as replacements for the Astro van 4.3 engines 95 Octane Gasoline Thank you for your reaction
good stuff brother Blue will easily make 300k+ you'd be surprised how many don't know what a timing light even is now a days let alone how to use em lol but anyhow have a great day brother and Thanks again
I'll take that compliment! I've been told I either bore you to death with my voice or it's soothing. Glad you appreciate how I speak! Cheers Brian. Zip~
Thanks for the video. My 94 Sonoma has the same engine. What was your truck doing when it wasn't running right? What was it that made you want to replace the whole distributor?
Well, the engine had 258,000 miles on it and a whole distributor was actually less than an ignition module, cap and rotor. The problem I was having was lost spark every once in a while. Towards the end of the video I think I showed where the insulation on the pick up had started breaking off and apparently it was arcing between the two wires, eliminating spark. Zip~
Thanks Sir Pipe! He's a trouper, that's for sure. I had been the only one working on him for 12 years prior to buying him in April of 2014, so I knew at least that much of his history. Since getting him in 2014 for $600 from my neighbor, I've put an additional $1980 in parts and tires on him in the 4 years I've owned him. I'm a stickler for everything being right with my vehicles, no matter their age or appearance. Old Blue is an Ugly Truck!! But he's dependable! Cheers my Friend! Zip~
One more question, please - on our truck, the ignition module plugs seem to be pointing right at 12 / 1 O'Clock positions if the firewall is 12 - yours seem to be pointed more towards 3 O'Clock? This truck ran perfect until last year and as best I know, the distributor has not come out and been put back in.. maybe since she was new (prior owner).
Make a witness mark either in the firewall or engine that marks the distributors position so you can put the new one in the same place and position. You will want a timing light (they can usually be borrowed from your auto parts stores) to set the timing. If memory serves, the wire is brown with white stripe but don't quote me on that. Check other videos for similar years so you're sure of the wire color and whether it has a stripe or not. Good Luck with the repair! Depending on the miles on the engine, a timing chain may also be needed. There are videos out there showing how to check the slack without taking anything apart other than taking the cap off the distributor to watch the rotor as you turn the crank shaft by hand back and forth. If the rotor hesitates when you move the crank back and forth, that indicates there is excessive slack in the timing chain and that it should be changed. This will also cause the timing advance to jump all over the place resulting in a poor running engine. The correct timing is right at 0 degrees before top dead center and there is a timing line on the harmonic balancer and a metal tab with notches and numbers to assist you in setting the timing. Use chalk or a little soap stone on the timing line on the harmonic balancer to help you see the line/timing much easier with the timing light. Again, good luck with the project. Zip~
Gonna attempt to change the distributor on my 1990 gmc…. My ignition module seems to be pointing at 1 o’clock position but the clamp bolt was loose, was your hard to get in time?
@@ZippoVarga Zippo, I forgot to let you know how things went - completely successful! Thanks again for your video. New distributor is so much better than the - probably original - distributor that was in the truck. :)
I just got a Napa Distributor for my 1990 GMC 1500 but it does not come with the brass sheld for the pickup. The star is not riveted to the shaft so do need the sheld.
On my 1995 Chevy C1500 4.3 The (DI) timing wire is located in front of the Heater Blower, inside the cab, passenger side below glove box. Single Brown wire with black stripe .
I have a 92 Silverado with a 4.3 V6 engine. I put a new distributor but I did not put it back how the old distributor was sitting. The truck turns on but is misfiring then it shuts off after couple minutes. How do I put the engine at top dead center so I can put it on time with the timing gun?
Rotate the flywheel nut with a long screw driver in the #1 spark plug hole until the piston comes to the TOP of the compression stroke. It will reach top dead center two times in the 4 cycles. So you have a 50-50 shot of it being on the compression stroke. Then, pull the distributor up to disengage it from the cam and point the rotor to the #1 cylinder. It will be slightly off as the distributor engages with the cam gear, so you may have to slightly offset the rotor so when the distributor is fully seated, the rotor is pointing to the #1 cylinder. Attempt to start but know that timing is not yet set. If it starts but runs terribly, simply pull the distributor, rotate the rotor 180 degrees (1/2 turn) and reinstall. All this means is you installed the distributor 180 degrees out of time. Fingers crossed all will fall into place after that. Good Luck Josue!! Zip~
It didn't Bobby. The issue I was having was an occasional no spark issue caused by the deteriorated insulation on the two ignition pickup wires as I show in the video. The spark would jump to ground occasionally, causing the no spark. Good luck with yours! Cheers! Zip~
300000 nooooooo problem. I had a 93 S-10 with the 4.3 with 240000 it ran like a top but it was so rusty that there was nothing left holding it to the frame. It was just to unsafe to drive
That's my worry with Old Blue. The radiator support lost its body mounts a couple years ago and the dog house is pretty much resting on the frame via the radiator support. I may see about getting a new support or welding in some reinforcing steel and new mounts. Other than that, to look under the truck, the frame and rest of the body mounts are rust free. Wheel wells and rockers as well as cab corners are gone, but the rest is surprisingly solid. And just 42K to go! I've had higher mileage trucks with the 4.3 come and go and the engines were still rock solid. Cheers Dave! Zip~
just bought a 1991 chevy s-10 with the 4.3l the previous owner installed the distributor incorredtly cuase for the truck to run it sits withthe connectors stright back and not at a 45 degree angle like i see in every other video /photo so i have to fix that but the wierd problem i am having is the truck keep melting ignition coils i fixed the ground from battery to the block added a ground to the distributor cleaned and sanded the coil mounts replaced the icm previous owner replaced the distributot and alternator and battery and it is still melting the coils when i touch the wire that goes from the distributor it acts up so will try changing this wire any thoughts?
How I replace them is I put the engine where the rotor button is pointed at the number 1 cylinder on the cap then pull the distributor out drop the new one in with the button pointing at number 1 cylinder no need to mark nothing tfs
I got a 1995 Cheyenne 4.3 TBI and has jumped time never actually put a distributor in my self got the concept in my mind but 1 thang that is throwing me off is that brown wire was talking about how do you locate im thanking it could be a different color
On your newer truck, the brown with white wire will be in a different location, but still in the engine compartment on the firewall. There are dozens of chat forums on these older GMT400 trucks that can help you out Larry. Simply google timing your 1995 Chevrolet 4.3L Truck.
I locked myself out of my truck recently and only had my hood up, so I had to remove my distributor cables to shut it off. I don't remember the correct cable connection, will this help video help me? Im no mechanic and don't want to screw any up.
Nice video, thank you! We've got a '90 C1500 with the 4.3L V6 and she runs *perfect* when cold - when warmed up though, under load - boy, can it knock. Auto shop couldn't find anything - I put in a new (new old..) computer (up in glove box) and that helped a lot. Already have new plugs, wires, etc. I put new ignition module in distributor this weekend, helped a bit more, but not enough. My distributor, I think, may be original - has the weights that swing for advance.. so I've ordered a $52'ish new dist. from RockAuto, should be here later this week. I'm keeping my fingers crossed - ps: thanks for showing the brown wire to disconnect for timing, is it solid brown, or brown with white stripe? - Regards, Bill
Put #1 cylinder at top dead center on the compression stroke, then install the distributor with the rotor pointing to the #1 plug wire location on the cap. The rotor will be slightly to the left then nest into the intake winding up with the rotor pointing to the #1 plug wire location. If the Distributor doesn't seat fully, you may have to turn the oil pump slot some to get it to properly engage. Zip~
ZippoVarga Thank you for the quick response. I guess my question is more so, if the firewall is 12 o’clock and the radiator support is 6 o’clock. Where on the clock does rotor point when cylinder #1 is at Tdc (per the reference line on the crank pulley). I have no prior idea of where 1 originally pointed.
maybe you can help me trouble shoot, 92 chevy s10 4.3. wont start seems like pick up coil, distributor/rotor may be bad. truck usually sits all winter in damp environment so would imagine one of those, any suggestions. if i drown it in starting fluid i can sometime get it to start
Sounds more like your fuel pump is no longer working. Pull the fuel line off the throttle body and have someone else turn the key (DON'T START IT!) to see if fuel comes out of the line. Fuel pumps are pretty common after 60,000 miles. Zip~
Yes. The pick up wires insulation broke away on the old one and was causing a dead short, plus there was a considerable amount of play in the whole thing. A little over $50 and a little elbow grease and all the problems went away. Cheers my Friend! Zip~
I've had them fall out of the lesser quality extensions and ratchets. I just throw them away to be honest. But they can be repaired by inserting the spring and BB and peaning the metal around the BB to secure the BB and spring. But I wouldn't trust it as a permanent fix and I'd source another extension or ratchet. Cheers my Friend! Zip~
Worn out distributor versus new and, no matter if you're replacing or servicing, if you remove the distributor, it should always be properly timed after being installed again. Zip~
After I shut the camera off it was bugging me, so I put the old one back in to see, and apparently, that's just how they're made. Both had a little play at the clamp flange, but the two machined surfaces at the end were good and snug to keep the distributor to cam gear properly engaged, so once clamped, the top doesn't move at all. Not sure why they're made that way, but....seems to be "normal". And I don't have plans to replace the valve guide seals unless Old Blue starts using a lot of oil. It just smokes a little on start up, but uses only about 1/2 a quart between 3,000 mile oil changes. I may tackle them in the near future if time permits. It's an inexpensive fix, but takes quite a while because you have to remove all of the rockers, do each cylinder with the piston at top dead center, then either put compressed air in the plug hole to keep the valves up or stuff string in the spark plug hole then bring to top dead center to keep the valves closed. This process has to be repeated 12 times and each valve can take upwards of 20-30 minutes. So due to that, it's not a priority unless he starts using a lot of oil and smoking constantly. Cheers my Friend! Zip~
I,ve got a 94 s-10 4.3 it will startup then when in gear it will run 50 yds then act like it runs out of gas.I shift in to neutral and turn key off then back on and it starts back up runs a little bit then starts acting like its out of gas. yes it has gas , I changed: filter, injectors, TPS, fuel pump has pressure, dropped the fuel tank tonight and will check for tank problems. I have a spark controll to replace also. replaced ECM 47k I had this in local shop for 2 months all I got was a bill. this has been going on for almost a year. somebody help !!!!
Considering the age, I would check the pick up coil in the distributor for the same issue I show here. Degraded wire insulation. The whole distributor from ORileys is just $60. So worth it to just replace the whole thing and keep the new parts off the old one as back up. Another possibility is the fuel pump relay could be tired and worn out. Easy enough to check by simply replacing it and going for a drive. I hate that you’re having such an issue with the old girl. Keep me posted (with a NEW comment so I get notified). Fingers crossed we can get your truck sorted out. Cheers! Zip~
ZippoVarga,if you know anyone looking for one lmk. Dang strong 4.3 backed by a 350 turbo tranny with a 2500 stall+shift kit. Drivable as far as you're willing to drive it. Wouldn't be afraid of heading out from the East coast to the West coast and back. Can't beat it for $1500.00
I actually installed a new distributor in my 95 S10 yesterday using this video. Best one out there for us not so talented backyard mechanics. Thanks for the help, God bless you and your family and all the followers you have
O'Rileys. But these days expect to pay a lot more. As I always suggest, get one with a Lifetime Warranty. I say this because 100% of replacement parts are now made in China, so quality is very hit miss. Zip~
@@Barry11997 hello, did you change your distrubutor, did it help? I think this is my problem also. Mine has up and down movment. Changed cap,rotor,wires and coil. checked all grounds and egr,02 censer. Still have very bad spark knock and no power.
@@ridelikekrum7707 I finally figured out it was a plenum vac leak I never bothered with it I found something else. Have to checked fuel psi. Idk what year it is but the vortec distributors are bad about going bad.
Last time i changed a distributor was un my 75 impala i put a 396 in. Seems some teenage idiot in a rush to put the engine broke some things lol. Man i miss that car.
Most, if not all V6 engines that were modified 8 cylinder engines share this firing order. It goes way back to the 1960's with the Buick 225 V6 that later became the 231 found in many entry level G body cars, like the Oldsmobile Cutlass, Buick Skylark, Buick Regal, Buick Grand National, Chevrolet Malibu etc. Zip~
Freaking love these trucks man, They are just so easy to fix and parts are cheap. My Old girl has 360K miles all original with the 5 speed, Still carries me to work every morning and runs like a sowing machine.
Was having a problem with my old blue stumbling and stalling. Tried different things. Egr valve was bad i replaced that. Then truck got worse so i figured must be a firing issue. I watched your vid and saw how u did your distributor and i went to advance auto paid $125 for brand new distributor and followed your instructions. Dude it runs like a new truck and thank u so much for posting this vid. These little 4.3 v6 engines are tough and hold up awesome plus easy to work on.
I'm glad you're back up and running Taz!! And that my video helped out to boot! 262,000 miles and still counting on the old truck, although, I no longer own him. Cheers! Zip~
@@ZippoVarga cool beans on the milage! My old blue is a 93 chevy cheyenne "mediterranian blue" color paint and after 26 years has 139,264 miles. Never tripped its original milage. Truck used to be my dads but he passed away in 2005 so now i keep old blue around to remember him by. Love the body style of these trucks and they not cluttered under hood with a bunch of junky wires,plastic covers and computer boxes. I have a flowmaster 40 series on it now but no pipes yet but it sounds beast way it is now. Great job zip and keep on rollin :)
@@ZippoVarga Where did you buy the distributor at ? and how is it working for you ? Thanks my brother
Oh man, I think your video just helped me save my truck, I've changed almost all of my all my ignition parts, but the distributor has not been changed yet, it looks just like the old one you pulled out, thank you for the info 👍✌️👌
Hey Fred475, if you didn't find the brown wire yet, mine was behind and below the glove box under a little bit of the carpet, Not under the hood.
It has a black clip that is flat and 1" long.
You don't have to take the glove box out.
THIS IS THE EASIEST way to nail a reinstall of a new distributor the 1st. time!
Never attempted it before.
Mark everything and it's a 2 hour job, maybe less for the 1st time!
Thanks Zippo!!! It seems like an intimidating job before you do it but it's not!
I followed your directions to a T and my 1994 W/T Long bed with the little 4.3(Feels like a 350 on the low end if you can believe it!).
Guys/Gals, Change your distributors!
I have a junky timing light so I'm not absoulty sure it's dead on 0 deg timing.
If you have a lot of miles on your ol' boy. I'm at 293K miles just do it.
You'll get more MPG and I guarantee it with a good replacement dist.
I made the mistake of first buying one from the A website and it was junk.
Walked to a local Advance store and their premium was about $140 after tax and "discount". DO IT!!!
Thanks again!
I'm sure OLD BLUE will make it to 300K, with all the runs to/from Eaton. The Caravan rental made a handy "lumber hauler" yesterday. One of the reasons* I "benched " my '84 Subaru SW had some overly high RPM issues on cold start. The rental came with an Indiana temporary tag. *$2600 rust repair was the main issue. Very informative Video as always.
im about to set the timing in my truck same engine 93 thanks for the help i replaced only the pick up coil and so far its good just need to time it and your video was a good reference thanks! 93 2wd 4.3tbi dark blue 165,000 km
For the miles I had on my truck (258,000) and the price point of a complete Distributor, I thought...what the heck....I'll get the full meal deal and be done with it, but I could have gotten away with changing out just the pick up. As you saw, the wires on mine lost their insulation over time, and they were cross firing. I too had the 4.3, but this repair works on all V block small blocks of the time. Quite low KM on that 93! That's just 102,526 miles! You must take exceptional care of the old boy. Cheers! Zip~
Hi Zippo my dad 4.3 in his Chevy 07 his what bad to he has 135ooo on it good tuck the oil return hole in the hands need be cleaned thank for the videos keeping them come.
Papa Doug, yep...the 5.7 has the same oil return problem and they do need cleaned out once in a while. Old Blue's are free and clear, but it's time to clean out Clifford's. Good point for others to know, so thanks for posting this! Cheers my Friend! Zip~
Riveting video!!! A professional video. After some troubleshooting you narrowed this issue right down. The good GM's have the Distributor hiding in the back. (350 and 4.3) Nice 6 point wrench. Commenting as I go. -------------- I have been thinking of replacing the ZED but not yet. I talked to Mrs, Bruce and we are willing to put some major money into him as I only put 2000 miles on him a year. Funny he is a male. Probably a male as there hasn't been much trouble with him :-) We have to have 2 vehicles that can travel 4000 miles in one trip, without worry. Remember we are in Canada with lots of miles between cities. I am babbling. I am watching with great interest as a 4.3 is a 5.7 without 2 cylinders. Great mechanic work. I loved this. Looking into the future. Great shot of the helical cut gear. That is not easy work, huddled in there for a young man like you!!!! Good luck on old blue we are all pulling for her------------- him!!! All the best. the older i get the more i love these older trucks. Just watching this I am keeping the ZED. 186,00 kms which is 116,000 miles. I think even if I put 4000 dollars into him that is only 8 payments on a new one. .
My reply got silly long, so check your email buddy! Sean~
Going to replace the distributor cap and rotor in Loretta (my '93 Chevy) this weekend, but I suspect the entire distributor may need to be replaced soon. I thought I'd watch a couple videos of the process just for fun. The crazy thing is I was born and raised in Eaton. I still live in Hartford City and work just northeast of Muncie. Small world!! This was a great video. Thanks for sharing!
Good one Zippo, the way you take care of your truck it will make it to 300,000 and maybe some more, thanks for the video
Thanks Mr. Mule! All told, including the initial $600 purchase price, I've put $2580 into Old Blue to keep him safe and reliable. I sure hope he lasts another 42K miles! Cheers my Friend! Zip~
Thanks for the video helped me revive my s10
zippo I am watching you and bush funeral at the same time so that means that both of you are good people.have a great day.
I was editing and uploading during the Bush Memorial service as well! Thanks for the sentiment my Friend! Zip~
Finally a video with the same distributor as I have thanks bud ✌✌✌
No problem 👍
I like the video.
Rarely do I see the same engine that I have. The only difference is mine is five on the Floor.
I had a 1990 4.3 with 5 speed. Was a standard cab short bed. Miss that truck! Cheers! Zip~
I had a 89 c 1500 with 350 with a standard transmission had 328000 miles before tranny went. Motor ran great
Good old American Quality....can't beat it! Thanks for sharing your story Richard! Zip~
I think ole blue will hit 300000 , no problem. good video zip take care!!!
Thanks Bill! The only thing that would stop him is if he spun a main bearing or dropped a piston. As gentle as I am on the gas pedal, I think you're right...he'll hit the 300,000 mark with more to give. If the body holds on to the frame that long lol. Cheers! Zip~
Go on, my friend ... your mentality liked me I hope you will talk about the V6 diesel engines that are suitable as replacements for the Astro van 4.3 engines 95 Octane Gasoline Thank you for your reaction
Here in the USA, the diesel isn't available. So I'm sorry, but I can't help. Zip~
good stuff brother Blue will easily make 300k+ you'd be surprised how many don't know what a timing light even is now a days let alone how to use em lol but anyhow have a great day brother and Thanks again
Very True! Timing lights are definitely Old School! Cheers Brother! Thanks for stopping by! Zip~
This guy's got a Bing Crosby-esque soothing sounding voice
I'll take that compliment! I've been told I either bore you to death with my voice or it's soothing. Glad you appreciate how I speak! Cheers Brian. Zip~
Yes agreed brian
Awesome job 👍 thanks for the video
Another job well done.
Thanks Wood my Friend! Old Blue is back to being a happy truck albeit a Rusty Happy Truck lol. Zip~
Thanks for the video. My 94 Sonoma has the same engine. What was your truck doing when it wasn't running right? What was it that made you want to replace the whole distributor?
Well, the engine had 258,000 miles on it and a whole distributor was actually less than an ignition module, cap and rotor. The problem I was having was lost spark every once in a while. Towards the end of the video I think I showed where the insulation on the pick up had started breaking off and apparently it was arcing between the two wires, eliminating spark. Zip~
Nice one Zippo. Ol Blue is great.
Thanks Sir Pipe! He's a trouper, that's for sure. I had been the only one working on him for 12 years prior to buying him in April of 2014, so I knew at least that much of his history. Since getting him in 2014 for $600 from my neighbor, I've put an additional $1980 in parts and tires on him in the 4 years I've owned him. I'm a stickler for everything being right with my vehicles, no matter their age or appearance. Old Blue is an Ugly Truck!! But he's dependable! Cheers my Friend! Zip~
nice truck! New subscriber here. fine job! well done!
Good video learned something thanks
One more question, please - on our truck, the ignition module plugs seem to be pointing right at 12 / 1 O'Clock positions if the firewall is 12 - yours seem to be pointed more towards 3 O'Clock? This truck ran perfect until last year and as best I know, the distributor has not come out and been put back in.. maybe since she was new (prior owner).
Make a witness mark either in the firewall or engine that marks the distributors position so you can put the new one in the same place and position. You will want a timing light (they can usually be borrowed from your auto parts stores) to set the timing. If memory serves, the wire is brown with white stripe but don't quote me on that. Check other videos for similar years so you're sure of the wire color and whether it has a stripe or not. Good Luck with the repair! Depending on the miles on the engine, a timing chain may also be needed. There are videos out there showing how to check the slack without taking anything apart other than taking the cap off the distributor to watch the rotor as you turn the crank shaft by hand back and forth. If the rotor hesitates when you move the crank back and forth, that indicates there is excessive slack in the timing chain and that it should be changed. This will also cause the timing advance to jump all over the place resulting in a poor running engine. The correct timing is right at 0 degrees before top dead center and there is a timing line on the harmonic balancer and a metal tab with notches and numbers to assist you in setting the timing. Use chalk or a little soap stone on the timing line on the harmonic balancer to help you see the line/timing much easier with the timing light. Again, good luck with the project. Zip~
Gonna attempt to change the distributor on my 1990 gmc…. My ignition module seems to be pointing at 1 o’clock position but the clamp bolt was loose, was your hard to get in time?
@@ZippoVarga Zippo, I forgot to let you know how things went - completely successful! Thanks again for your video. New distributor is so much better than the - probably original - distributor that was in the truck. :)
I just got a Napa Distributor for my 1990 GMC 1500 but it does not come with the brass sheld for the pickup. The star is not riveted to the shaft so do need the sheld.
On my 1995 Chevy C1500 4.3 The (DI) timing wire is located in front of the Heater Blower, inside the cab, passenger side below glove box. Single Brown wire with black stripe .
Right...they relocated from earlier years. Thanks for helping out with this information! Cheers! Zip~
Nice job zip
Thaks Mr!!! Zip~
Thank you so much I just replaced the distributor and it’s got no power oil pressure drops and it pops every now and then
I have a 92 Silverado with a 4.3 V6 engine. I put a new distributor but I did not put it back how the old distributor was sitting. The truck turns on but is misfiring then it shuts off after couple minutes. How do I put the engine at top dead center so I can put it on time with the timing gun?
Rotate the flywheel nut with a long screw driver in the #1 spark plug hole until the piston comes to the TOP of the compression stroke. It will reach top dead center two times in the 4 cycles. So you have a 50-50 shot of it being on the compression stroke. Then, pull the distributor up to disengage it from the cam and point the rotor to the #1 cylinder. It will be slightly off as the distributor engages with the cam gear, so you may have to slightly offset the rotor so when the distributor is fully seated, the rotor is pointing to the #1 cylinder. Attempt to start but know that timing is not yet set. If it starts but runs terribly, simply pull the distributor, rotate the rotor 180 degrees (1/2 turn) and reinstall. All this means is you installed the distributor 180 degrees out of time. Fingers crossed all will fall into place after that. Good Luck Josue!! Zip~
After you set the base timing to "0" and reconnect the brown timing wire, what does the computer take the timing to at an idle?
Did the issue with your distributor cause it to backfire. I really like your video, I’m gonna change mine tomorrow it has 200,000 miles
It didn't Bobby. The issue I was having was an occasional no spark issue caused by the deteriorated insulation on the two ignition pickup wires as I show in the video. The spark would jump to ground occasionally, causing the no spark. Good luck with yours! Cheers! Zip~
300000 nooooooo problem. I had a 93 S-10 with the 4.3 with 240000 it ran like a top but it was so rusty that there was nothing left holding it to the frame. It was just to unsafe to drive
That's my worry with Old Blue. The radiator support lost its body mounts a couple years ago and the dog house is pretty much resting on the frame via the radiator support. I may see about getting a new support or welding in some reinforcing steel and new mounts. Other than that, to look under the truck, the frame and rest of the body mounts are rust free. Wheel wells and rockers as well as cab corners are gone, but the rest is surprisingly solid. And just 42K to go! I've had higher mileage trucks with the 4.3 come and go and the engines were still rock solid. Cheers Dave! Zip~
good job
just bought a 1991 chevy s-10 with the 4.3l the previous owner installed the distributor incorredtly cuase for the truck to run it sits withthe connectors stright back and not at a 45 degree angle like i see in every other video /photo so i have to fix that but the wierd problem i am having is the truck keep melting ignition coils i fixed the ground from battery to the block added a ground to the distributor cleaned and sanded the coil mounts replaced the icm previous owner replaced the distributot and alternator and battery and it is still melting the coils when i touch the wire that goes from the distributor it acts up so will try changing this wire any thoughts?
How I replace them is I put the engine where the rotor button is pointed at the number 1 cylinder on the cap then pull the distributor out drop the new one in with the button pointing at number 1 cylinder no need to mark nothing tfs
Only question is where do you disconnect the brown wire.
I got a 1995 Cheyenne 4.3 TBI and has jumped time never actually put a distributor in my self got the concept in my mind but 1 thang that is throwing me off is that brown wire was talking about how do you locate im thanking it could be a different color
On your newer truck, the brown with white wire will be in a different location, but still in the engine compartment on the firewall. There are dozens of chat forums on these older GMT400 trucks that can help you out Larry. Simply google timing your 1995 Chevrolet 4.3L Truck.
I locked myself out of my truck recently and only had my hood up, so I had to remove my distributor cables to shut it off. I don't remember the correct cable connection, will this help video help me? Im no mechanic and don't want to screw any up.
Nice video, thank you! We've got a '90 C1500 with the 4.3L V6 and she runs *perfect* when cold - when warmed up though, under load - boy, can it knock. Auto shop couldn't find anything - I put in a new (new old..) computer (up in glove box) and that helped a lot. Already have new plugs, wires, etc. I put new ignition module in distributor this weekend, helped a bit more, but not enough. My distributor, I think, may be original - has the weights that swing for advance.. so I've ordered a $52'ish new dist. from RockAuto, should be here later this week. I'm keeping my fingers crossed - ps: thanks for showing the brown wire to disconnect for timing, is it solid brown, or brown with white stripe? - Regards, Bill
Coil pickup !!!!!
Where should the rotor point if proper clocking was never denoted when disassembling on a early non vortec 4.3?
Put #1 cylinder at top dead center on the compression stroke, then install the distributor with the rotor pointing to the #1 plug wire location on the cap. The rotor will be slightly to the left then nest into the intake winding up with the rotor pointing to the #1 plug wire location. If the Distributor doesn't seat fully, you may have to turn the oil pump slot some to get it to properly engage. Zip~
ZippoVarga Thank you for the quick response. I guess my question is more so, if the firewall is 12 o’clock and the radiator support is 6 o’clock. Where on the clock does rotor point when cylinder #1 is at Tdc (per the reference line on the crank pulley). I have no prior idea of where 1 originally pointed.
maybe you can help me trouble shoot, 92 chevy s10 4.3. wont start seems like pick up coil, distributor/rotor may be bad. truck usually sits all winter in damp environment so would imagine one of those, any suggestions. if i drown it in starting fluid i can sometime get it to start
Sounds more like your fuel pump is no longer working. Pull the fuel line off the throttle body and have someone else turn the key (DON'T START IT!) to see if fuel comes out of the line. Fuel pumps are pretty common after 60,000 miles. Zip~
nice job, so the replacement fixed it not starting?
Yes. The pick up wires insulation broke away on the old one and was causing a dead short, plus there was a considerable amount of play in the whole thing. A little over $50 and a little elbow grease and all the problems went away. Cheers my Friend! Zip~
Hey zip have you ever had that little bb fall out of an extension or ratchet? If so how did you fix it?
I've had them fall out of the lesser quality extensions and ratchets. I just throw them away to be honest. But they can be repaired by inserting the spring and BB and peaning the metal around the BB to secure the BB and spring. But I wouldn't trust it as a permanent fix and I'd source another extension or ratchet. Cheers my Friend! Zip~
hahaha! just get a new one!
WHAT CONNECTOR DID YOU DISCONECT TO SET TIMING AT BASE TIMING
itstillruns.com/adjust-timing-43l-7949874.html
If you reinstall the new distributor in the same exact position as the old ,why would you have to mess with the timing?
Worn out distributor versus new and, no matter if you're replacing or servicing, if you remove the distributor, it should always be properly timed after being installed again. Zip~
Good video, are you gonna do a valve stem seal video?
The distributor wasn’t wobbling around in the hole cause it was too small a diameter was it?
After I shut the camera off it was bugging me, so I put the old one back in to see, and apparently, that's just how they're made. Both had a little play at the clamp flange, but the two machined surfaces at the end were good and snug to keep the distributor to cam gear properly engaged, so once clamped, the top doesn't move at all. Not sure why they're made that way, but....seems to be "normal". And I don't have plans to replace the valve guide seals unless Old Blue starts using a lot of oil. It just smokes a little on start up, but uses only about 1/2 a quart between 3,000 mile oil changes. I may tackle them in the near future if time permits. It's an inexpensive fix, but takes quite a while because you have to remove all of the rockers, do each cylinder with the piston at top dead center, then either put compressed air in the plug hole to keep the valves up or stuff string in the spark plug hole then bring to top dead center to keep the valves closed. This process has to be repeated 12 times and each valve can take upwards of 20-30 minutes. So due to that, it's not a priority unless he starts using a lot of oil and smoking constantly. Cheers my Friend! Zip~
I,ve got a 94 s-10 4.3 it will startup then when in gear it will run 50 yds then act like it runs out of gas.I shift in to neutral and turn key off then back on and it starts back up runs a little bit then starts acting like its out of gas. yes it has gas , I changed: filter, injectors, TPS, fuel pump has pressure, dropped the fuel tank tonight and will check for tank problems. I have a spark controll to replace also. replaced ECM 47k I had this in local shop for 2 months all I got was a bill. this has been going on for almost a year. somebody help !!!!
Considering the age, I would check the pick up coil in the distributor for the same issue I show here. Degraded wire insulation. The whole distributor from ORileys is just $60. So worth it to just replace the whole thing and keep the new parts off the old one as back up. Another possibility is the fuel pump relay could be tired and worn out. Easy enough to check by simply replacing it and going for a drive. I hate that you’re having such an issue with the old girl. Keep me posted (with a NEW comment so I get notified). Fingers crossed we can get your truck sorted out. Cheers! Zip~
I've got you another old blue if you're interested. 96 GMT400 4.3 automatic
Thanks for the offer Wesley! I'm in a good position with the two GMT400's I've got now, but there are times when I miss Old Blue. Cheers! Zip~
ZippoVarga,if you know anyone looking for one lmk. Dang strong 4.3 backed by a 350 turbo tranny with a 2500 stall+shift kit. Drivable as far as you're willing to drive it. Wouldn't be afraid of heading out from the East coast to the West coast and back. Can't beat it for $1500.00
I actually installed a new distributor in my 95 S10 yesterday using this video. Best one out there for us not so talented backyard mechanics. Thanks for the help, God bless you and your family and all the followers you have
where did you the distributor for $ 52.00 at
O'Rileys. But these days expect to pay a lot more. As I always suggest, get one with a Lifetime Warranty. I say this because 100% of replacement parts are now made in China, so quality is very hit miss. Zip~
My distributor is locked some how can’t get it up it’s a 93 s10 but how can I get it removed?
Do these have a tab for the oil pump at the bottom of the distributor you have to align
The oil pump drive is at the bottom, yes. If you've got the distributor aligned correctly, it will drop into place. Cheers! Zip~
Ok I watched the rest. I’m gonna check mine this weekend see if I’ve got that kinda play. Been chasing a problem. For a year I’m thinking this is it.
@@Barry11997 hello, did you change your distrubutor, did it help? I think this is my problem also. Mine has up and down movment. Changed cap,rotor,wires and coil. checked all grounds and egr,02 censer. Still have very bad spark knock and no power.
@@ridelikekrum7707 I finally figured out it was a plenum vac leak I never bothered with it I found something else. Have to checked fuel psi. Idk what year it is but the vortec distributors are bad about going bad.
Is that clockwise? And what’s the gap size on the plugs?
Hey if that brown wire is disconnected where would I connect it
Don't forget to reconnect the brown wire or you ain't got no advance.
Thanks James. I did reconnect it when I was tying up the installation and putting things back together. Zip~
What will happen if I didn’t disconnect the tan wire??
I have a 1995 Chevy p30 6.4 litre.
I can’t get the timing right ((!!
She won’t turn over.
Can anyone help me step by step plz
You said 612345?
I did, but it's actually 165432. My apologies. Zip~
I have a chevy cheyenne c1500 it started no problem and drives to but then it seems to wanna die out after i drive for like 2 mins
Also i have 190k i wanna get 100k more out of it
Last time i changed a distributor was un my 75 impala i put a 396 in. Seems some teenage idiot in a rush to put the engine broke some things lol. Man i miss that car.
On the verge of selling my truck its getting frusterating
So that’s the firing order
Yes 165432.
Most, if not all V6 engines that were modified 8 cylinder engines share this firing order. It goes way back to the 1960's with the Buick 225 V6 that later became the 231 found in many entry level G body cars, like the Oldsmobile Cutlass, Buick Skylark, Buick Regal, Buick Grand National, Chevrolet Malibu etc. Zip~
Good video learned something thanks