Chevy Tbi running rich problem solving
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- Опубліковано 30 лис 2024
- If your chevy gm tbi is running rich this will help you trouble shoot it and fix it
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Also right next to the temperature control sensor is the ground wire for the brain.clean it up and make sure you got a good ground. Most people usually overlook this
What color is that ground???
@@wranglerellis9214 All grounds are black
@@wranglerellis9214did you ever find out??
Not only solid info but easy to listen to. No wasted time with bullshit small talk about how the vehicle belonged to his friends uncle brother in law's so n so. Thank you for your knowledge sir!
Yes that's what I'm talking about. Short and sweet we don't care about the other bs.
1994 tbi 5.7 chevy 2500 4x4...running rich..I did the oxygen sensor, better running...then plugs cap and rotor and wires, better running...and then found this video...then engine control temp sensor..better runner.., and the last key was the MAP sensor and now it runs like a watch..thanks Cody
I swapped a 305 out of my old rotted 92 Chevy van into a Clean 93 GMC Pickup. It was running like crap till i saw your video and Changed the Engine Temperature Control Sensor! It runs Great Now!! Thank You Soo Much for Making this Video!!
I had a severe flooding problem..Engine starts if one of the tbi injector was disabled, it was flooding so bad that it literally doubled the amount of oil in the oil pan because it was no other place the gasoline can go!! So I replaced the the temp control sensor as per Cody's suggestion and sure enough it solved my problem..Thanks!!!!!!
By the way you can disconnect the sensor temporarily to test it to see if there is any changes...I did it on mine and it run better then I purchased one and replaced it solved my problem...
Been running it unplugged for years
dude I was pulling my hair out trying to figure out why my truck started running like crap and then not even starting when it was hot. watched your video and checked on your tip for the engine temp control sensor. BOOM! wire connection all brittle and barely hanging on. replaced it and truck is truck running like new! Thank you Cody you saved me precious time , aggravation and a boat load of money!!! as fuel pump, etc etc were going to be next. Thank you again Cody!
Was it misfiring most of the time but randomly run fine ?
Bro if you tell me jump of a cliff I will , everyone listen to this man ! I just got my 87 R10 it sat forever so I replaced the tank pump fuel filter plugs wire and rotor shit was still running like shit when I saw his vid talking about the temp sensor I was like what shit is this so wtf I have to lose I got one installed and it worked no Fuchs,,,,,,,,, way I could not believe it I still can’t .
Cody let me send you a bottle of whiskey bro just say where and is done .. you’re a boss thank you .
Thanks for the great video. my 96 K1500 was running super rich, blowing black smoke, hesitating and sluggish on acceleration ( throwing NO Codes) . I followed your instructions and replaced spark plugs, wires, rotor , MAP sensor. Bought the Engine Temp control sensor and the TBI rebuild kit. Sure enough, the Temp control sensor was the issue and changed everything. I'll save the rebuild kit for the future. Thanks!
Thanks - You the MAN! I have a 95 GMC with a 454, 244,000 miles. Usually runs great started it up and was running ruff blowing black smoke when I hit the gas, It was dumping crazy amounts of fuel from the injectors. Thought it was a miss, changed plugs, they were black, didn't solve the issue. Found you video. . . changed the temp switch and runs wonderful. I would of never thought to change that switch, and I've been a backyard mechanic for 35 years. In all honestly, you have made my life a tiny bit better. Thank you for taking the time to post this video. Good job, no GREAT job.
Now all I have to do is deal with a seeping heater hose with that silly connector on the manifold.
+Christopher Vaccaro / I have the same GMC. Also, probably need to chame my teperature switch too. She always idles fast. In nutural stays at or, above 1000 Rpm instead of 750. Smokes some; But white smoke never black. Tail pipe is pretty clean = no oil burning. I have a couple youtube videos of start-up and idleing. Grazie
hi pig h tunks
black smoke might indicate carbon build up and a bad fuel regulator
Yeah I did that to mines and still runs rich and black cloud of smoke when I floor it. I'm thinking I got a different issue. Maybe regulator not sure yet
Thanks for this information . Got a rebuilt 305 that still ran at 265000 miles. I've replaced about everything on my 88 gmc 1500 & now it runs rich especially after warming up . Thanks a lot. I was thinking about a new TBI but at $765 I'm definitely rebuilding mine now.
I know I'm late to the game, but I've just got my 91 GMC Sierra with a 350. My engine is running rich, and after watching your video, I have the confidence of a seasoned mechanic that I can fix it. You are a great teacher. Thanks.
Did you get the POS fixed yet?
@@wildestcowboy2668lol probably not, im driving a polished turd as well.
Thumbs up from me. Ran across this video last year, but thought it was my injectors from running the tank empty. Replaced injectors ( with used), ran good for a month and started acting up again. I chalked it up as my trucks a POS and this is how it runs. FINALLY got too tired of the hard start and having to feather the gas to keep it running when cold. Went to my DIY teacher ( youtube) and stumbled across your video again. A quick 5 minute replacement of that part and my babies purring again like the good ole days!
Just bought a 95 two door tahoe.... ran rich as hell. Couldn't find anyone else doing throttle body videos..did all the checks you suggested....now it runs great!!. You sir just got a new subscriber!!
Cody - This is one of the BEST videos for troubleshooting a 5.7L TB. I can't find a flaw in anything you stated. You nailed it!!!
+Mart Hyatt Thanks im actually going to be doing s new one on the tbi in hd very soon!
To give you credit, good point on checking the plugs. They don't lie.
One thing I always recommend when buying an older vehicle, is to replace all the sensors and valves lots of people only do basic service spark plugs cap and rotor and fuel filter. but things like carbon canister, EGR valve, throttle position sensor, idle air control valve, fuel regulator are things I automatically change out not everyone puts thought to these extremely important components. Think about it people, oh and before I forget PCV valves can make a big difference as well
Quadruple the price of $100 truck. At that rate I may even get lock for the ignition
I think you know to much about this so I need some help why my truck the tbi smells like gas I rebuild the engine what pretty much everything is new accept all that that you name
Finally!! Someone that knows fricken TBIs 🙌
Best video explaining the issue i am having with my 350. Tbi rebuilt and new fuel pump. Fuel pump did die. Running rich so im doing these next steps. Thanks again
You can either just shotgun the fix or you can get the proper equipment to see what is going on. These GM TBI systems have parameters that can be read back by computers that plug into the diagnostics connector. These tools come in a range of functions. Some of them just allow you to read the OBD codes and the SES (Service Engine Soon) LED (AKA the idiot light). Others allow you to read all the parameters, including the value of the CTS. Still others (at higher prices) allow you to tune the parameters in the ECM. IF you are reading these comments that tool is probably more than you want. But for everyone else that wants to work on GM TBI, get two things: 1) a fuel pressure gauge to screw into the Schrader value on the fuel line (you might have to make a mod to add the schrader, my Crusader 454s have it as stock equipment...) and 2) a diag port reader. In the case of my twin Crusaders I use the Fox Marine MEFI1 to NMEA 2000 gateway but this is too expensive for automotive use. But it is an example of a small computer that you plug into the diags port of the ECM and it displays everything from MAP sensor reading to Throttle Position Sensor value to CTS value, etc. It gives you these values both in volts and in meaningful terms. For example, CTS tells you degrees F. MAP tells you how many ATM or BAR (as well as atmospheric pressure when the engine is not running). It also gives you the RPM, the spark advance, the injector on time in milliseconds and the fuel flow rate. So with one tool you can really see what is going on from the ECM's viewpoint instead of just swapping out parts until it seems to be running better.
I have a 91 k5 blazer and change plugs and wires made it start better but once warm it flooded itself out. Change the engine temperature sensor runs like a champ. Thanks. Rebuilt engine and transmission. 250k miles
That temp sensor is the key to many of that years problem on cold starts to bad run after it warms up. First thing you change if temp Gage has been acting up, it messes with the engine control system. I think you hit the nail on the head on this one. It never hurts to check the T B I anyway.
I was dreading having to figure out my 92 350 Fuel dumping issue but not no more, Thanks for the confidence boost. :)
today at my old Missouri shop i worked on a 93 5.7 tbi with a complaint of running rich on cold start and hot start also, would mysteriously smooth out when put into reverse or forward and would drive fine down the road.
investigating found a mouse nibbled vacuum line just behind the t.b. next to the rubber fitting. had to fix another vacuum line as well. I test these lines simply by unplugging each end and blocking one end with my finger and blowing into the other end. May be a little crude but it works.
also the IAT connector under the air cleaner was shorting out at the plug, wire covering was bad where the wires went into the plug. Fixed this with JB weld to keep the wires in place and isolate them from each other.
i did replace the cap & rotor, owner had replaced plugs and wires.
Runs like a champ now. Check all plastic lines and rubber ends, they deteriorate over time.
hope this helps if someone has a similar problem.
Thank you so much man, picked up a 93 Silverado with a 350 for 400 bucks. Got it to run but idles horribly. The tip on finding vacuum leaks is great! Thanks again!!
Idle air control valve mine was doing the same thing til I swapped it out! It was covered in carbon deposits and stuck on open position
Great video, had already changed the iac, distriburator cap, rotor, spark plugs, and wires and nothing. Changed this temp sensor and problem solved..
Had a Coolant temperature sensor go bad on a Holley Sniper /440 setup. After listening to this I thought to replace it on my plow truck ( K2500/ 5.7). Worked great
Man this really helps a lot! My idle rpms this winter are normal at startup but increase to 1100 after a few minutes. I've changed out the IAC and did notice the throttle body gasket did not fit well. I'm going to follow your advice and when I get it fixed I'll let you know. This is an excellent video, one of the best I've seen!
Well I Did listen to your video. But the first times didn't listen because I knew better. So after changing the fuel regulator, the injectors, the iac, the tbi, the plugs the fuel pump and the distributor. I came back listened to your video and instead of ignoring the cts I unplugged it ran crappy but ran. put a new one in and it runs perfect. thanks for the video I would of save 1k in parts if I had only listened to your video . Thank you John (thick head who knew better) lol
This is a big help - thanks! I got an '88 Chevy 2500 from a friend, and he did a lot of work on it, and we did some more before I took it home, but it's having fuel problems still, that showed up after I'd used it a little. I think this info will help me get the old truck roaring down the road again.
your iac (idle air control) is open thats why it sounds like a major vacuum leak, you have two plugs on the side of the TBI one is the small one which is the tps and the bigger one with a round body sticking out of the tbi is the iac, sometimes the tps goes bad and makes it do that, check out changing a tps in my videos
Cody the Car Guy
Hello I've rebuilt my TBI and changed throttle position and idle air control and now I'm gonna change out my coolant temp censor just cause! Thanks for this tip Cody!
Edgr Rickett I changed the Electronic Coolant Temp Sensor located on Intake Manifold by Thermostat Housing and it instantly cleared up my issues. This has been going on for over a decade! Engine starts and idles great! Simple $10 part and 5 minute fix. Thank your for video and comments!
unless you see a injector pissing , or dripping fuel then its not really needing a rebuild rich usually is map or cts
Awesome troubleshoot video bro. Very detailed to the point and no special equipment needed for diagnostics. Im a backyard mechanic myself and learned a few things i did not even think to check. Thanks for the video and hope too seeing more from you. Cheers. from fellow dyi personal vehicle mechanic from rainy portland oregon. \m/
Hahaha Rosenberg Oregon here
I remember my first beer. hope your still staying curious and turning wrenches up there in weird vill
this guy is pretty good, the engine temp sensor was my problem, it had me about to buy a fuel pump, and a bunch more i didnt need....Thanks so much
Thank god for this procedure process you wen through! Picking up an 88 rcsb with the 305 tbi with a skip at idle, and 1/4 throttle, but clears up at 1/2 and full throttle in the next couple days and this will give me an excellent start on what to do! I really appreciate this!
Great info..it was my ETCS like he said when everyone else said change pump
Great vid! Love OBD1 GM smart people...we are rare! One bit of critique...GUYS PLEASE DONT USE BOSCH, E3, AUTOLITE...ECT... if you're a hill rod and love your delcos I cant help you but wouldn't it be great if there were one brand of plugs that rans THE BEST IN ALL VEHICLES!?! ...guess what there is! Everyone made in Japan! NGK PLUGS and NTK O2 sensors! These things are amazing, oh and just the v power nickels are just fine...your $16 O2 sensor and copper/nickel standard plugs...both are 30k miles of lifespan iridium's are good but you should put an accel or msd coils...I've run both, never noticed a difference really do you like red and black or yellow and black lol they can jump the gap. Awesome tip these damn sensors...different than the sender that has a 1 pin on the driver side...basically if you have no codes, the sender is a big thing, small price! Always check the 3 ground straps two go below the heater core inlet on the firewall one to the engine in a shitty spot on the block the other is just frame to body, there is a third strap, it's not really for any kind of management as it doesnt go to the circuit of any powered eqipt...its for safety! Look under the driver side blazer Burban Tahoe c/k pickup it runs from the fuel tank hose assembly to the frame...without it one spark and fire in the hole! Check them all. And as our video host said...map replaced...a little bit better...this shit is 25 years old give or take guys wires connectors and sensors...all the hot cold humid dry and time...my TPS was smooth on the meter, perfect spec...did replacing it and the in spec IACV help big time...YOU BETCHA! These parts are so available and so incredibly cheap...just find your main issue and get to them as time allows! Oh, and since you read this far I'll let in a tip for ya'll, if you have a bad MAP. MAF (NOT ON THESE BUT IN GENERAL) BAD TPS, IAC VALVE, O2...if you have no tech1a scan tool and the jumper wire says 12...no codes...unplugging these engine management sensors one at a time, when the bulb comes on qnd you go theres that little ****er! Gotcha...there ya go. Itll pop the service engine light and throws that sensors job to open loop runs it off generic engine mapping in the ecm just make sure the connectors dont short to metal, and when the condition dramatically improves...there you have your issue! it's as valuable as it is cool and simple! Hope I've helped people and if you have any OBD1 questions from twin thi 84 c4 vettes to 95 trucks to 2.5 fieros and 3rd gens to g body's...PM me I'll be glad to try and help ya! Thanks, - 350ChevyDude
I wish I could figure out the PM method
Damn bro , you just taught a clinic with this post ! Huge help just found a CLEAN 1992 Chev c2500 basic truck . Has the idle stumble and is Rich . You gave me all the pointers I was looking for
Pm you where?
Hay Cody, 87' GMC S15 2.8l 2-wheel. 2 yrs ago, I replaced my entire water pump system, heater hoses too along with my temp sensor. Trk ran great.
1 1/2 yrs ago, replaced the map sensor. Trk ran great.
Last July 2020, check engine light on. Scanner reads; map sensor again. So I replaced it again. It lasted for about cpl of months. Check engine light on again.
#3 replaced map sensor again. Now: cold start-trk runs great. Idles down to 700-800 rpms. Then after trk is at normal running temp, I go to start it, after I start it again, Check engine light comes on again.
It sputters, idles rough, usually stalls. After I start it again, and get it to idle, the check engine light will go off and trk runs ok but idles a bit higher; maybe 900-1000. Tps has been changed last time I replaced the map sensor.
Now I get check engine light flashes that says: TPS-low voltage.
Do you think the temp sensor is bad because after it reaches normal operating temp and I start it, the check engine light will come on again!!!!!!!!
It's hard for me to get around anymore because I'm disabled and bending over my trk, is hard for me.
216,000 miles on it. Just turned 216........ no vacuum leaks because at cold start-trk runs great.
Let me know your thoughts.
I may have an injector on right bank that will need to be replaced.
And a reminder: even if the temp gauge reads correctly means nothing. It is on a different sensor, usually in drivers side head.
Thanks for the help, I just replaced the cts (by thermostat on manifold) and map sensor. Still rich. There is also a sensor in the air cleaner assembly which AUTOZONE refers to as air charge temp sensor. I think i'll try the O2 sensor next since effects fuel/air mix. OBD1 codes on car are 23 and 33. Car runs smooth when started from cold, but then starts chugging at idle within minute.
Did you get the problem solved?
Don't you love it when nobody replies? Been reading this comment thread for a while and there's no follow ups or answers to anyone. Lame
well if it stopped after you were messing with those two then id say your on the right path, if your using a couple old parts one might be bad as well but usually a iac you can unplug its a pretty loud sucking noise like a major vacuum , a dropping of idle can also be a simple vacuum leak too or too much fuel on a tbi
my temp sensor plug in had corrosion on one side and after changing the regulator and injectors, IAC, and TPS it still didn't run correctly until I found that wire and cleaned it up and now the motor runs sweet and it doesn't miss anyone. just a suggestion bc I had a heck of a time and this dude has a good video full of info.
Great Vid. This fellow covers a lot in reasonable time, unlike some that talk so slow. I did not know about the temp sensor in the front, only the one on the side which operates the gauge. That was my problem also. Thanks.
And NO GOOFY MUSIC; right to the point; very PROFESSIONAL 🙌👍
You missed the whole point of the video, NO I DONT REPLACE each part until i find the problem!! I only did this video to show what ea part is and how it works and what it does. A video of me changing a simple cts wouldnt explain or show much. I have helped a ton of people solve their chevy tbi issues. These are only here to help as a guide. And im about to redo the video in HD with even more detail for the TBI system
Great video! Two points though. Use much less anti seize on your plugs. Just a very thin film. #2. Use spray bottle of water to find vacuum leak. Engine will run bad on water and no ether vapors floating around to blow your face off. That’s it.
Thank you so much for your video. Mine was running rich and by watching your video I was able to fix my problem which was the temperature sensor.
This video is a lifesaver thanks. Started with the ECT 15minutes and 15 dollars later and she's running great.
Hey thanks for the video been fighting this thing for a week straight changed every thing I thought would create the flooding then watched your video and change the temp senser runs like a charm.Was a awsome help
cheers :)
I wanted to thank you for advice on the changing out of the temp sensor.. I have a 91 GMC Sonoma 4.3 running rich and crappy! Runs like a top now! Saved me $$. Thanks man
When Cody is referring to 'badminton' he is making reference to the cone shape or conical pattern of the fuel spay off of the fuel injector. Great video with all the common sense places to look for signs of fuel problems. Cheers Cody !
Cody.. the word you were searching for is birdie... " Badminton birdie "
@@kellyd887 It's called a shuttlecock.
well if your talking about the area where the injectors go into the tbi then yes thats considered the bowl so its suppose to have fuel, a bad regulator can leak or allow not enough or too much fuel, but a bad cts will allow it to dump fuel and flood out and starting full throttle sounds like too much fuel you were allowing more air in so it could start, simply have someone turn over the key while your looking at your tbi, you will prob see a big flow of fuel hence flooding it out
May have already been pointed out, but I believe the part you keep calling the MAP sensor is actually the IAC, idle air control valve. Fuel filters won't cause a rich condition, they can cause a lean one though. You mentioned running lean would creat a very clean plug, but it would actually be ashy, kinda white. A really clean plug usually indicates water leaking into the cylinder, as it heats up it vaporizes and steam cleans everything. The plug you pulled almost looked oily, which can also make an engine seem to run rich. Especially if it has been doing so for a while and trashed the converter. You mentioned putting in a cooler thermostat, but that will actually hurt fuel efficiency. The bigger the temp difference between the fuel/air mix and the heat of the burn the more power you'll get. Stick with OEM temp and you'll be fine. If its running rich, it's either getting too much fuel, or it's simply not burning it. Make sure your plugs are in good condition. I noticed yours were platinum, and seemed wore down. Check the cap and rotor if equipped, not enough spark=less burn.
He is pointing at the map sensor. He even had an extra map sensor in his hand. The idle air control valve is built in to the throttle body. Congratulations on making an ass out of yourself.
justin cotter Like they say, everyone that's got an ass is one at one point or another; just happened to be Brandon's turn here, and, we all take turns.
Paola Medicci couldn't agree more
Paola Medicci lmfao
Brandon Scott The black sensor on the small passenger side bracket is the map sensor. He is labeling it correctly. What it does is tell the computer the pressure/vacuum in the manifold so it can adjust the how much fuel to deliver. The IAC valve is actually not a sensor at all. It is screwed into the passenger side of the TBI unit. the IACs function is the adjust the amount of air coming into the manifold at idle. Symptoms of a bad IAC would include bad idle, high/low idle, or lack of idle but with the throttle opened the engine runs mostly normal.
You made my day. My MAP was bad and your vid was dead on. Good job Sir Cody! 👍
Just bought 93 and could use some of this.
Thanks for the great video.
Well white smoke can be pretty much 3 things, one series moisture like dew, it can be a blown head gasket , if its a sweet kinda smell its antifreeze burning off, and then of course oil burning is a white smoke , but it will smell like burning oil, those for the most part only what creates the white smoke , a tiny leak in a head gasket until it heats up, valve stem seals bad, oil takes a bit to burn off
i put in all new TBI --our just stall out blue
ok for the injectors if its dripping directly out of the injector its bad, but look very closely because it can drip out the side due to a bad oring and look like its coming out of the injector.Spray should look pretty even i tried to show it on my channel but the frame rate comes into play and makes it look like its alternating but by your eye it should look pretty even spay, and you should hear what sounds like a ticking or bb sound its the injectors pulsing
awesome you got it fixed , i had a how to test your injectors video for the chevy tbi
Video was informative however didn't fix my problem it's driving me crazy I can't figure out the issue
@@Ashley-cd7sy is ur truck struggle at idling like making a hunting sound to the point it almost wants stall out but doesn’t if so. Hears an ol school mechanic trick for you. Get a small hammer and a small point punch ok what you do with that is take your vacuum line off your egr and put the punch in the egr port and punch the hole out lil bit and put line back on and start it up if it’s still struggling and hunting still do that trick again a few times till it idles normal again that’s what I did to my truck works everytime for me to be honest
@@blairjosephbernard2011 idling is fine I have done a crap load of work the only problem I can't figure out is when driving it stops accelerating and you have to let off the gas and it picks back up every now and then the service engine light followed by the battery and a stall out happens but just turn the key and she's back running and that leads me to believe it's something to do with fuel system or vacuum line
Thanks....... You can also test the CTS with an Ohm meter.
Coolant sensor approximate resistance specifications:
177 ohms @ 212 deg. F. or 100 deg. C.
241 ohms @ 194 deg. F. or 90 deg. C.
332 ohms @ 176 deg. F. or 80 deg. C.
467 ohms @ 158 deg. F. or 70 deg. C.
667 ohms @ 140 deg. F. or 60 deg. C.
973 ohms @ 122 deg. F. or 50 deg. C.
1188 ohms @ 113 deg. F. or 45 deg. C.
1459 ohms @ 104 deg. F. or 40 deg. C.
1802 ohms @ 95 deg. F. or 35 deg. C.
2238 ohms @ 86 deg. F. or 30 deg. C.
2796 ohms @ 77 deg. F. or 25 deg. C.
3520 ohms @ 68 deg. F. or 20 deg. C.
4450 ohms @ 59 deg. F. or 15 deg. C.
5670 ohms @ 50 deg. F. or 10 deg. C.
7280 ohms @ 41 deg. F. or 5 deg. C.
9420 ohms @ 32 deg. F. or 0 deg. C.
12300 ohms @ 23 deg. F. or -5 deg. C.
16180 ohms @ 14 deg. F. or -10 deg. C.
21450 ohms @ 5 deg. F. or -15 deg. C.
28680 ohms @ -4 deg. F. or -20 deg. C.
52700 ohms @ -22 deg. F. or -30 deg. C.
100700 ohms @ -40 deg. F. or - 40 deg. C.
ChevyTech is offline
Thanks for your video and help. I solved my problem, Finally! Mine was a bad pick-up coil as soon as I changed that out bam! it runs great! Thanks again.
I have an 1992 gmc 3500 with a 350 small block. Always had a very small skip to it. Replaced everything under the hood. Never got better. So i drove it for a few years. After a friend came over he said its the motor. He said a few people had same issues,i laughed it off. Two years later it go really bad. So i pulled the engine out to swap out for a long block. When i pulled the oil pan off to clean it up. There was a a small piece of piston skirt. So if all else fails,try the a new engine.
I Love obd1's easy fix. Everything's right in front of your face ! I'm a GM girl ! Not the new overseas gm but the American Built General Motors with Fisher Bodies. Delco Remy (:
Thank you for this information. My 1995 5.7 just started to back fire through the air cleaner. I was checking under the hood and found the vacuum tube for the egr was off, put that back on and still did the backfire. I will try the temperature control, as that was brought up by some. Great information. Thank You
thanks good video my chevy was sputtering in 3rd gear. after watching your video and reading similar problems pulled the idle control valve sprayed the gump off with carb cleaner reset the other sensor and took it for a spin problem solved problem staying solved. thanks again good video. ps i was done in 10 minutes tops glad a saved a few hundred dllrs and did it my self.
what "other sensor" did you "reset" Tom?... I installed a new IAC valve myself... worked great for two days now Im back to an intermittent issue about every 3 key turns... Im thinking ECM now or distributor module?... only things I have NOt replaced. I will EGR as well... need to "test" it. thanks for the post please reply to my question.. thanks again. - DTM
Daniel Johnson i should have followed up mine was the same i had the fuel pump repaleced about a year ago after letting the truck sit s a few years to give you some history. my problem came back as well and thought maybe the temp sensor due to it only acting up low power when it was warmed up and reading other posts. went to go start the other day and wouldnt even start decided to to inspect the fuel pump had some time removed the bed and found the pump never got replace due to the lines being really corroded so iam going to start there this weekend it seems they fixed a ground wire and charged me for the pump aittle ticked. a friend said they might have replaced some internal parts and may have been the cause if a line was cracked or not installed right.my water pump and temp sensor was replaced at 80 thousand miles due to the motors to have known issues with the pumps andis why i didnt go for it yet. also where i live now i get alot of moisture under the vehicle and poped the hood when didnt start and found condinsation all over the motor and think it might be a wire issue but will update after the fuel pump due to not getting fuel right now.
Tom I just got done doing all that to my truck... new bed, new fuel lines, pump, and all... still have the issue... please update after the weekend... thanks ... - DTM
found it my fuel tank and pump got here installed it still no start went back to youtube and found a help full video my start relay was bad and oil pressure sensor. oil pressure is a back up to the fuel pump if the fuel pump goes out while driving its suppose to supply the fuelpump with power given theres oil pressure. durning the down time inspected the rotor cap all the pins were coroded in side so got a new one and new rotor button as well. it seems tobe running smother but still need to put the bed on and take it for a drive. illl find the video this guy has really easy trouble shooting.
Daniel Johnson just got back from test drive she is running great just knowing the fuel problem is fixed the only other thing i did was replaced the distributor cap and rotor they were beyond bad with all the white corrosion build up in side the cap. going for the wires and plugs next iam sure they need replaced pops said he replaced them when the truck had 80k its at 140k right now. also a simple check if your loosing spark pop the hood at night and start it up if your wires are arking abviously were not getting the spark to the plug fyi.
A coolant sensor is an easy spot if you can read live engine data. I realize what data we get with ALDL is limited. A very often overlooked sensor is the oxygen sensor. Plugs white or black is a good indicator of a bad O2.
Great vid, Cody! Thanks for taking the time to post. I’m about to look at a 92 Chevy 1500 with a V6, and your video is helpful as I research the make and model.
93 astro spent 200 on all kinds of parts and stumbled on your video and it was the mapp sensor ! spewing blak smoke out the pipe and thanks im going to check your tbi rebuild vid my injectors are weak in one side
thanks for your input it did help with my pickup truck i replace everything you show n my truck is running great again...thanks!
Before you put in the new pickup coil was it running rich ?
I believe that temp sensor is for your cold start sensor and if you spray wd40 when looking for a vacuum leak is safer
Haha clogged fuel filters and bad spark plugs can make it run rich! But seriously bad coolant temp sensor can be a problem, it was on mine
Thanks for the tip about the temp sensor. That was the problem. The temp sensor was the only code that I got on my 1995 Chevy K1500, 5.7 and I ignored it because I didn't think that would cause the surging idle or bogging down and dying from too much gas. I also had a bad exhaust leak and thought that was causing my O2 sensor to flood my engine so I fixed those first. Well it's running good again after changing the temp sensor and I no longer have an exhaust leak. lol BTW the temp sensors have 2 different pin configurations so double check what you have.
The 2 different pin config are so you don't mix up the coolant temp sensor ( near thermostat housing ) and the engine temp sending unit which screws into the cylinder head between the #1 spark plugs. This sends a signal to the temp gauge in the instrument cluster.
Ok I'm seeing there are 3 ect sensors 213-77,213-928 and 1551107
What you meant to say was CTS - Coolant Temperature Sensor. For others here, the ECM's CTS is completely different than the temperature sensor for old school analog gauges. The ECM CTS has 2 wires and is fed 5 VDC from the ECM. The sensor resistance creates a voltage divider with a known, fixed resistance in the ECM. Varying temperature changes the resistance of this sensor and the ECM uses an ADC (Analog to Digital Converter) to turn the voltage read back from the voltage divider into a temperature, i.e 170 deg F.
Conversely, the analog gauge sender is essentially a variable resistance to ground. So, you feed the gauge 12 VDC and that goes through the coil that moves the gauge's dial. The output side of the gauge's dial actuator coil goes to the un-grounded side of the sender. As the temperature changes so does the resistance between the electrical connection point of the sender and engine block ground. This changes the amount of current that flows to ground through the gauge's needle actuator coil. When current flows through that actuatur coil it creates a magnetic field. This electromagnet is in close physical proximity to a permanent magnet. When current flows through the actuator electromagnet, it pushes that magnet which is connected to the gauge's needle, thus changing the reading.
Its called ECT “engine coolant temp”
The ecm uses a "sensor" , the guage uses a "sender"
Have a gm throttle body on my jeep with a 360 V8. its running rich as all plugs are black and failing the state HC emission test. Going to clean up the TBI, but thanks lfor the tip on the temp sensor and map sensor.
Great video Cody! I wish I'd found this before spending so much money swapping all the parts. It turned out to be the MAP sensor on my 4.3. Thanks.
The map on the 350 here caused it to not rev high
My 93 is stalling and has a surging rpm while driving. Can’t figure out what is causing it but I’m starting by replacing the map sensor.
nice you got it figured out , i might have to add a new part to the videos to cover that part, now you have a perfect running tbi system. Glad the videos helped that's why i make them
So I changed my engine temp sensor mass air throttle passion but for some reason when its cold outside it likes runs away may Idle at 1500 1800 2k 3k one time it idle at 5k do you have an idea what that could be
Sounds like the temp switch on front of the motor is acting up, that bogg is actually where it is running way too rich , those tbi's dont like being flooded w too much fuel they will bogg or back fire even and that switch also works with the map sensor, so try that they are not very expensive and most people over look it thinking it just sends the motor temp to the gauge
Thanks Cody! I just bought a 1988 GMC Suburban. I love it! When I come to a stoplight and I'm sitting it seems to idle just a tiny tiny bit rough. My mom said I need a tuneup. I'm a female that knows not a whole lot about cars....... any suggestions? Also...what type of K&N Intake should I put on this girl? She's a beautiful stock 350 Sierra Classic. I even have the OG running boards!!!!.....Lovin this truck! Straight old school.....lol.
You mom just might be right a tune up can go a long ways. Some times a cap or rotor or old plugs, plug wires will seem fine driving but sitting still they can make it idle a little ruff. Nothing wrong with old school i have both old school rides and newer ones.
just the cone to replace the box. rest is market scam
Cody, I have a 1995 GMC Sierra 5.7litre and with TBI have replaced the MAP sensor and Water Temperature switch the problem remains about hard start as when cold the fuel is not currently available until allowing fuel pump to run with key on approx 5 sec. and then starter has to turn over more than should approx 5 sec and most of time floods the cyl. won't start for about 20 min until fuel drains out of cylinders! Is the Fuel Pressure Regulator a culprit? Engine runs perfect after it finally starts!
hey thanks man my truck was idling high i replaced the engine temp control sensor bam done.
Thanks you know your stuff!! I changed out the temp control sensor and it work!!!!!! Thanks I will save this video for further. Thanks again!!!
Have a 1994 Chevy Silverado it's got a 350 four bolt in it I'm looking to put this little screen or little tiny screen in it in the throttle body I don't know where it's located anybody help me
Thanks alot there guy, your vids r not only educational, but also interesting TY
@@briandaniels5596 probably the injectors...
You put a cooler degree thermostat in. But the computer is looking for 195° it want get to 195. So the computer keeps the engine in closed loop mode. Thus runs rich☝️. The only way around that is have the computer re programmed/flashed ‼️. I know this from die hard experience ‼️. Years ago after going to a 160 thermostat. I noticed the exhaust smelled very rich than normal and my fuel mileage went to hell literally because of it not getting to to temp the computer was looking for‼️☝️
It's a DUAL Plane intake..... The right hole feed's the left side!
😂😂😂
Tony TheTuner
No they run the two inner and the two outer ones on opposite side. How about your purge valves I’ve replaced countless numbers of them. Also the tbi will also clog the port to map sensor. Will cause it to run rich. Also early electric fuel pumps had a orange hose coming out of fuel pump. They collapse or split. Car runs extremely rich.... because it actually runs lean. And computer actually over corrects. Easy way to check for that is unplug the map sensor. If it starts running better. Then check fuel pressure and volume
ECU temp unit $24.60 cured our problems too.
We checked the meter reading comming into sensor/resistor.
According to manual was suposed to be 5 - our read 10.
Truck ran good when we unpluggged from old unit.
We replaced unit and truck continues to run good.
thank you very much, very hard to find any info on these older efi systems.
Sometimes a bad TPS can cause the engine idle to rise and cause an over-rich mixture. It can also cause the EGR to receive vacuum at idle when warm. That can cause the RPM'S to rise and cause a high idle. Remove the vacuum hose and see if the idle stabilizes. If so, it could be the TPS. Check with a code tester. A bad MAP sensor causes black smoke going up a hill. Check the radiator to see if it's low. That can cause the CTS to enrichen the mixture. A vacuum leak can cause a lean mixture which can cause the computer to enrichen the mixture. Use silicone grease on plug wires. Use anti-sieze on plug threads. A noid light checks for a signal from the computer. Usually it's not a problem with that. Check for pressure leak-down which can indicate a bad pump or pressure regulator.
I have replaced my MAP, temp sensor but I still have a stutter and feels sluggish when accelerating. Somedays it will run smoothly like when the weather is cooler in the morning.
Have you checked the oxygen sensor? Have you been able to pull any of the trouble codes?
Throtle position sensor
I have a 1994 Chevy 454. Backfiring and burning lean won’t idle. Replaced all sensors, module, fuel pump filter and regulator, pickup coil, cleaned grounds, no codes. Runs great when map vacuum hose is disconnected. Why?
Hi, thank you so much for your amazing tutorial and detailed explanations!
I have a question to ask you... I currently have an issue with my 5.0L TBI, the fuel injection occasionally misfires (or at least I'm pretty sure it's that). This causes the engine to stall, or the RPM to be reduced when I'm driving.
What do you think could cause it? Thank you again.
Did u find the answer as this is exactly what I’m going through with my 5.7
Meto I gotta 89 5.7l silverado
I just put a new cap, rotor, plugs and wires about three months ago. Also is the CTS the same sensor that tells the temp gage how to read? Also I went ahead and rebuilt the throttle body it was cheap as easy to do. It does run a lot better now, but still not correct, and still runs rich and idles rough. I also did as you suggested and reset the computer, so I think my next step will be the CTS and see if that helps. Thanks for all your input.
the right and left injectors feed air/fuel to both sides of the engine. two cylinders on left and two cylinders on the right.
not the full bank on one injector. get rid of the bosh spark plugs they have no place in chevy engines... geesh !!!
I saw your video's and they are helpful. I followed each step and my 305 runs good again
Wouldn't you see the temp gage reading too low on the dash too?? Or is the gage sensor different??
yes different.
your temp gauge or light switch on a tbi engine is usually around you 1 an 3 spark plug area typically a one wire plug! the sensor in this video only sends data to your ecm
Well dont forget this is a 14 psi system some think its a 65 psi system which can over power the injectors, second check your fuel filter it , you should be able to blow threw it like a burger king straw, also if both injectors are doing the same id lean towards a pressure issue not the actual injector, check my how to check the injector video and look make sure it dont leak, drip etc after you turn it off. If it sat for a long time the bowls can be clogged too, hope it helps
Great video.. Thanks
usually when it dumps fuel in my experience its the cts or map gone bad, a bad regulator will leak or wont hold pressure sending it back to the tank and you not enough fuel pressure to run it
Cody the Car Guy i am currently experiencing a similar ordeal with a "lean" idle in my 99 4.3 s10 blazer. the engine stalls after a minute. it shoots fuel when i apply a screwdriver in the pressure valve. I just changed the ICM and fuel filter. and has a new but questionable fuel pump. I reckon it to be a bad regulator and or vacuum leak, CTS/IAC, and or MAP.
I just noticed my 94 Silverado 350 when I step on the gas it good till about 2500rpm then if loses power and back fires through the throttle body I hear in the engine bay any idea what can make that happen
It's a side driver for work it has 271k miles on it original transmission and engine I never worked on tbi but I'll probably just take it down to the shop first problem this truck has ever gave me
start with the fuel filter and go from there. youd be amazed what a new fuel filter will do. wink... - DTM
Have you checked your timing? This is manual set timing, you have to use a timing light and turn the distributor while looking at marks on the crank.
I have a 92 k5 blazer 1500 with the 5.7 i have the same issue it will pop in the intake if i try to give it full throttle while driving any suggestions?
james mendoza mine just turned over 271K yesterday...
Id look at a cts it can make the map act up and run rich, also hows the distributor cap. Also make sure you disconnect the battery for 15 mins to reset the computer
Absolutely not one of these things fixed my truck. I put all those items in it and still was junk. Took it to a garage and they couldn't fix it and wanted to charge me $3000 and not fix it. No one has ever fixed one of these. I've had 8 gm tbi and everyone of the was in the junk yard before they should have been. Anyone that says they fix them is a liar.