Hi guys I’ve just won a job and thanks to you I now know what I’m doing 😂 can you tell me what make of MDF you use I know it’s standard but I can’t find which vid I heard you say what make brand please. Keep up the good work. 👍
HI Thats great to hear, and I appreciate it :-) I buy it from Lords builders merchants. I buy mine in bulk, a pack at a time, ,so holefully you will get the same mdf if you buy singles. I dont know the brand as its not stamped on the board, but its pretty dark brown in colour compared to other mdf sheets bought from other places. If you want to know further, call up Lords and ask them where they buy their mdf packd from and then maybe trhell either give you more info on it or you can contact their supplier. Cheers Ryan
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop You could also use a groove cutting bit 64mm from the edges on the back of the 12mm MDF doors, which creates a groove with a small double radius instead of a V groove to better mimic the 1,5mm radius on the 6mm shaker style MDF strips to make it look even more authentic. Cheers!
I been doing something similar, except 9mm backing with 9mm rails/stiles and pinning together with the 23g. Maybe I'll try 12mm backing with 6mm next time. Two problems I have with this is the doors sometimes bowing - do you think the remedy to this would be stacking them flat while the glue cures? I usually just toss them on the painting rack after I'm done pinning everything together. Or just trying to source better quality mdf? My other problem is the nail holes and and seam between the rail and stile shows through on the final coat in certain angles. I make sure to completely fill all the holes and sand everything flush, and as far as I can tell everything looks great after it's primed and sanded, but once it's top coated and a few days go by, the nail holes/seams start to be visible. Any tips? Thanks again for another great video!
Sometimes the door does move a bit but clamping them together does really help after they are made. I use the 23g pinner now with 12mm headless pins i believe. You cant even see the holes they are that small. ua-cam.com/video/uQ2qG0UNoJc/v-deo.html Its an old vid but I still use this and its amazing!
@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop thanks I'm checking out the video. It does seem that once the glue is cured and door is primed it's hard to get it bowed out of whatever warp it's in so I'm going to clamp/stack them from now on 👍
This is a great video for ones that may not have a table saw with a dado stack to do tenons for the stiles and rails. Simple method that doesn’t require a lot of tools. Nice 👌
What is your opinion of putting a 5mm chamfer on the outside front of the doors after putting the 6mm strips on the 12mm MDF? Is it a bit risky in the painting phase because there is only 1mm left of the 6mm strips?
I like it!! I'd be tempted to make the door just a little bigger and then after it all dries up, trim it down to the correct size on all four edges. Might save some sanding and the edges will be totally flush.
For a kitchen would you recommend moisture resistant MDF and as someone who has only started looking at making shaker style doors would you say edge banding or the method you do to finish the edges? Great vids and thanks for taking the time to make these. 👍👍👍
Yes definitely moisture resistant mdf . I would opt for the filling technique rather than edging. The edging is pretty sound but less to go wrong over the life of the doors if you fill them instead.
Hi Ryan, thanks for another informative video! Quick question about spraying, do you think it's worth going for an air-assisted airless sprayer and a new bigger compressor (graco merkur) (around 2k all in) or going airless with a fine finish tip? I'm currently using an air compressor sprayer and it's so slow on big side panels and doors. Thanks in advance. Dave
Hi Dave, sorry for the late reply alway catching up with messages being so many :-) I have never used an air assisted, but ive heard good things. To be honest I am happy with the fine finish tips in the standard airless. its a really good finish, but I guess the air assisted is possibly a little better! But there is the faffing around with the compressor, the noise and the extra hoses to deal with, also im not sure if these need dialling in, as in air pressure etc to get the right fan pattern? I did thnk about it once a few years back but decided against it! Cheers Ryan
Im thinking the same to be honest. After alot of research into this, ive come to the conclusion that an airless sprayer with a fine tip will probably be spot on! All the best, Dave. @@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop
@@DavidS-l1x Definitely, a good airless and fine finish tip is the way to go. . I turned air assist off on mine recently for a particular job and was impressed - almost zero overspray on back of doors and practically same quality finish.
Ive recently made 650mm wide doors with this method. Im not sure it has a limit tbh. I have also hung a very small mirror on the back of these doors before buy it was only 1000x 250 x 3
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshopThanks again for all your advice. Have you found the 12mm + 6mm to work well still on taller wardrobe doors (say around 2200mm long)?
![Shaker-style doors in MDF [video 405]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/jwGvYsvdCg4/mqdefault.jpg)
Really appreciating your videos.... great work 👍🏼🙂
Thank you 😊
Hi guys I’ve just won a job and thanks to you I now know what I’m doing 😂 can you tell me what make of MDF you use I know it’s standard but I can’t find which vid I heard you say what make brand please. Keep up the good work. 👍
HI Thats great to hear, and I appreciate it :-)
I buy it from Lords builders merchants. I buy mine in bulk, a pack at a time, ,so holefully you will get the same mdf if you buy singles.
I dont know the brand as its not stamped on the board, but its pretty dark brown in colour compared to other mdf sheets bought from other places.
If you want to know further, call up Lords and ask them where they buy their mdf packd from and then maybe trhell either give you more info on it or you can contact their supplier.
Cheers Ryan
Great video! You could always put a 1,5mm V-groove on the back of the doors, same width as the strips, for the picky customers :)
Clever idea !!!
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop You could also use a groove cutting bit 64mm from the edges on the back of the 12mm MDF doors, which creates a groove with a small double radius instead of a V groove to better mimic the 1,5mm radius on the 6mm shaker style MDF strips to make it look even more authentic. Cheers!
I been doing something similar, except 9mm backing with 9mm rails/stiles and pinning together with the 23g. Maybe I'll try 12mm backing with 6mm next time.
Two problems I have with this is the doors sometimes bowing - do you think the remedy to this would be stacking them flat while the glue cures? I usually just toss them on the painting rack after I'm done pinning everything together. Or just trying to source better quality mdf?
My other problem is the nail holes and and seam between the rail and stile shows through on the final coat in certain angles. I make sure to completely fill all the holes and sand everything flush, and as far as I can tell everything looks great after it's primed and sanded, but once it's top coated and a few days go by, the nail holes/seams start to be visible. Any tips?
Thanks again for another great video!
Sometimes the door does move a bit but clamping them together does really help after they are made.
I use the 23g pinner now with 12mm headless pins i believe.
You cant even see the holes they are that small.
ua-cam.com/video/uQ2qG0UNoJc/v-deo.html
Its an old vid but I still use this and its amazing!
@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop thanks I'm checking out the video. It does seem that once the glue is cured and door is primed it's hard to get it bowed out of whatever warp it's in so I'm going to clamp/stack them from now on 👍
@joseph7105 cool 👍
And yes you are right, maybe try and clamp it down as soon as it's made and whilst the glue is curing 👍
Love the content. Great video - very informative thanks
Thanks very much 😊👍
This is a great video for ones that may not have a table saw with a dado stack to do tenons for the stiles and rails. Simple method that doesn’t require a lot of tools. Nice 👌
Thank you and exactly, its a quick and easy way that anyone can do, and without specialist tools etc.
Thank you the the watch and the comment!!
Ryan
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop .7
vb
as always this is great stuff thanks from Northern Ireland
Thanks very much, much appreciated 👍
Hi Ryan, do you have a link to the 23 gauge nailer you use please? Cheers...
Hi Neil,
Hi Unfortunately the pin gun is out of stock on amazon but I have found an equivelent
amzn.to/3RTELkU.
Be sure you buy 23g not 18g
Love your work and videos. But shaker style doors.... I'm sure my grandmother would have loved them.
Im not sure whether thats a compliment or the opposite lol
What is your opinion of putting a 5mm chamfer on the outside front of the doors after putting the 6mm strips on the 12mm MDF? Is it a bit risky in the painting phase because there is only 1mm left of the 6mm strips?
I'd say a bit risky yes... May effect the hinge hole too?
I like it!! I'd be tempted to make the door just a little bigger and then after it all dries up, trim it down to the correct size on all four edges. Might save some sanding and the edges will be totally flush.
Thank you!
For a kitchen would you recommend moisture resistant MDF and as someone who has only started looking at making shaker style doors would you say edge banding or the method you do to finish the edges? Great vids and thanks for taking the time to make these. 👍👍👍
Yes definitely moisture resistant mdf . I would opt for the filling technique rather than edging. The edging is pretty sound but less to go wrong over the life of the doors if you fill them instead.
Big thanks for that. 👍👍
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop
Thanks
Great video !!! thanks
Cheers Michael!! 👍
Hi Ryan, thanks for another informative video! Quick question about spraying, do you think it's worth going for an air-assisted airless sprayer and a new bigger compressor (graco merkur) (around 2k all in) or going airless with a fine finish tip? I'm currently using an air compressor sprayer and it's so slow on big side panels and doors. Thanks in advance. Dave
Hi Dave, sorry for the late reply alway catching up with messages being so many :-)
I have never used an air assisted, but ive heard good things.
To be honest I am happy with the fine finish tips in the standard airless. its a really good finish, but I guess the air assisted is possibly a little better!
But there is the faffing around with the compressor, the noise and the extra hoses to deal with, also im not sure if these need dialling in, as in air pressure etc to get the right fan pattern?
I did thnk about it once a few years back but decided against it!
Cheers Ryan
Im thinking the same to be honest. After alot of research into this, ive come to the conclusion that an airless sprayer with a fine tip will probably be spot on! All the best, Dave. @@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop
@@DavidS-l1x Definitely, a good airless and fine finish tip is the way to go. . I turned air assist off on mine recently for a particular job and was impressed - almost zero overspray on back of doors and practically same quality finish.
This is really handy to know and share, cheers!
For 12mm with 6mm strips what would be the biggest width door you would do? Also if adding mirror would you still use 12mm and 6mm
Ive recently made 650mm wide doors with this method. Im not sure it has a limit tbh.
I have also hung a very small mirror on the back of these doors before buy it was only 1000x 250 x 3
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshopThanks again for all your advice. Have you found the 12mm + 6mm to work well still on taller wardrobe doors (say around 2200mm long)?
Great video all the same even though my last comment was removed for some reason😂
What nailer is that please
Hi Unfortunately the pin gun is out of stock on amazon but I have found an equivelent
amzn.to/3RTELkU.
Be sure you buy 23g not 18g
All I asked was for a beginners spraying tutorial .types of spray,compressor,paint types, mixing etc.
where are you based?
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop I'm based in Scotland my good man
@@Marty-lv426 I don't think I've seen that question 🤔
Your not using a cordless nailer
No we dont have one
Shaker like your mummy made ya
🤷♂️