Rust-Oleum Epoxy Shield Kit - geni.us/SEtkM Rust-Oleum Rock Solid Kit - geni.us/Fwq9 Epoxy Patch Kit - geni.us/mwChC Clear Finish Top Coat - geni.us/DKb1X Anti Skid Powder - geni.us/ZKIB7J Diamond Cup Wheel and Dust Shroud - geni.us/62DRoCj Diamond Blade for Cracks - geni.us/KgupX DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
I’ve done a full grind on the floor, and going the Rock Solid route. I watched the other video with the pro level stuff and the cost and number of steps and VOC off gassing are all turn offs. Thank you for both videos. It’s confirmed what I have learned so far and helped me decide how to finish this project.
Just got done with painting my 250sq foot floor after full grind. I did the 2.5 car garage kit which is supposed to cover 500sq ft. It comes with 2 paint bags, so I did the first, then 24hrs later did the second so that I could give some areas a 2nd coat. Takeaways: I needed a third bag of paint to address the thin areas where the paint soaked into the concrete after the first coat. And I would like to have done the sand and epoxy approach to crack repair. Overall I’m happy with my results, and believe it should be durable for years.
We had a professional do an epoxy-flake with transparent topcoat in our 2-car garage. One guy did the whole thing in one day. He etched with a rotary grinder. After dust-removal, he did a fast-curing epoxy (components mixed in the back of a truck)--then he *saturated* this coating with vinyl flakes. After a few hours of curing, he scraped off the excess flakes. Last step was a clear top-coat over the epoxy/flakes. It turned out really nice. I replicated the process with the RockSolid polycuramine system from a BigBox store. But I used twice as much material as suggested and ordered extra vinyl flakes in bulk to saturate the wet polycuramine. After curing 1 day, I scraped off the extra flakes with an old drywall knife on a stick, then covered with a a clear polycuramine topcoat (with anti-slip material added). These products aren't cheap, but they work great if used correctly--same result as the professional. If you use the BigBox products as suggested on the box, with sparse numbers of flakes, those floors can get extremely slippery when wet.
I used the original epoxy shield kit many years ago and it held up great on a 14-year-old garage floor. I skipped the included acid crystals and used muriatic acid from HD. The crystals just didn't seem strong enough based on what others said at the time. This was back in 02 and we sold the house almost 8 years ago and the floor still looked just as it did when we originally installed it. No hot tire pick up and no chipping. The inconsistency that you see is a lack of product in that area.
I did exactly the same thing at around 2004, though my garage floor was nearly new. I ended up putting two 2-car kits in my 2 car garage as I felt the first coat was not enough. I also did not add any flakes. But it's held up well for the past 20 years. The only issue i experienced over that time is staining in some areas.
Thanks for taking the time to produce this video on a very practical topic. You are a wonderful educator. Great presentation style without attitude & distracting music. Bravo!
I used the Rust-Oleum on my floor back in 2015 and it is still there today. Rough winters with brine & salt and sand. I am just now getting a few places coming up.
Yes, we rented a floor scuffer and then recoated with the solvent based epoxy and did a top coat. So much better than our original coating (just the water based epoxy)@@ben_is_tall
Excellent informative video. Most coating failures are due to lack of proper preparation. On older unpainted garage floors it is important to thoroughly clean them, removing dirt, grease, oil, break fluid, etc, use muriatic acid to etch the floor which allows the floor coating to penetrate into the concrete for a proper bond, make sure the floor is completely dry before application and finally allow the product to properly cure before parking on or using the space. Previously painted floors should be prepped professionally via grinding or shot blasting to allow proper adhesion of the new coating. Unfortunately most home owners and so called handymen skip this vital process thus resulting in chipping and peeling, wasting time and money. Do it right the first time.
Great video! Many of us have epoxy coated garage floors that have long since deteriorated. I think a great video would be dealing with a previously coated floor that needs to be re-done.
@@MrCabimero These are interesting... I like the look. I'm considering this for my garage gym, but they don't appear to be waterproof. Am I wrong or do they have openings to the floor below? How do they feel? Do they squish down at all with a heavy object on top?
@@jarich0327 they have slits in them so any moisture will drain through. They are some type of plastic. I would not be dropping weights on them as I'm sure they would crack with time. Supporting a car weight is one thing but dropping weights from your arms onto them is another. if you contact them they will send you a sample so you can put it in your hand and see what it feels like. I can't say enough good things about them and as I mentioned I have no personal or financial connection with them. I'm just a happy customer
Got my floors done professionally 423 sqft for about 2400$ with polyaspartic. I started to look into how to DIY it and came down to a few conclusions. One was that the equipment rentals, materials, and prep would get me close to the professional cost but there would be savings. Two, the lack of experience with polyaspartic can definitely end up with poor results. Shot blasting floors is better then grinding them so a shot blaster would have cost me nearly $1000 to rent out for the project. Paying a professional was worth their experience and the difference in cost was maybe $500-$700 more then a possible bad DIY.
I have a 3 car which is about 550 sq ft. I had 2 quotes polyaspartic. One was nearly 5k and the other over. Crazy. Needless to say my floor is still raw concrete.
Great video! The best way to test hot tire pickup is to let the hot tire sit on the epoxy long enough for the tire to cool before moving it. I understand it rained. Nice work on the installation.
Great video Scott. I like your meticulous effort in the details of prepping which is the key to any projects. Your survey about the durability was another plus to the video. Keep up the great work!
I bought a brand-new home in Houston TX in 2018. In 2022, I bought the Rust-Oleum garage floor epoxy and did my 2-car garage. I followed all of the instructions. My garage was fairly clean, and my wife had just bought a Tesla in 2022 and wanted to park it in the garage...so that's why I epoxied the garage floor. After about two months of parking in the garage...I noticed two small spots of Hot Tire delaminating on the garage floor. I just left it as is. In mid 2023 we moved out of state...but the floor still looked great. I'm moving into a new build in AZ in early 2025 and I'm going to be epoxying my two garages before I move in!
I got the best result when i ground the old floor, applied a layer of self level and then epoxy coating. Epoxy can be applied to the self level within a few days
Did a DIY Rust-oleum floor and it lasted about 3 years before it started flaking up under normal use. Then a got a pro company "Guardian Floor" to replace it. More expensive but worth it. I guess it depends on how much you want to spend. Great video.
Pretty good demonstration. I think the rock hard epoxy is much prettier and easier to apply. Congratulations on getting the Truck. It looks very beautiful. Thank you for sharing
I am in the 1 - 3 years currently and my floor is perfect. But I also sanded my floor with a floor polisher and a diamond sanding disk. Also I used the Rock Solid on my floor.
Great comparison. I’v used the epoxy shield on several homes before the rock solid came on the market. Unfortunately after a couple years, I noticed tire marks, stains, and some flaking. I used the rock solid on my brother’s home a few years ago with much better results!
Scott, Our floor was done impromperly by a "professional" a number of years ago, so we have old chipping and peeling. Don't think they etched. Some have suggested we need to belt sand all that off first. Also some have suggested using a sherwin williams william concrete sealer and just paint. Any thoughts? P S, i renovated my moms 100 year old farmhouse myself using your videos. And a rental. When contractors come over and talk to my husband, I'm like eyes over here buddy! Thanks.
I've had my Epoxy Shield in one garage for 4 years and another for 2 years, and I love it. Proper prep is critical (grinding, patching, etching, dryout, etc) and I was 100% set on using clear coat finish (I think it's a must). The only failure point I've had is some cracking above what I know to be the house's main drain line that runs through the garage to the driveway. The previous sellers had the drain line fully replaced, so it's only 3-4 years old. I'm stumped as to why it failed there. Hopefully not from any new moisture.
Forgive me if I missed it, but what product would you recommend for a moisure type sealant that would be applied underneath the epoxy? Kilz? Thanks for sharing this video. It's very helpful and educational. 👍🏻👍🏻Great charts!
Very useful video! I watched it twice already and will do at least a couple of more times when I do the actual job! I had been putting this off for so long but after watching your video I am re-energized! 😊
Great content. I like that odors or fumes didn't seem to be an issue. I have a 2 1/2 ft below the foundation pit in front of a large stone fireplace that needs this makeover thanks!
Awesome upload. For DIY project ur results look fantastic using both products. Would be satisfied with the results! Hopefully it lasts more than 5 years! Learned a lot from ur vid pros n cons. Kudos for saving me some time n frustrations when I decide to resurface my garage. Anticipating ur next one. Peace
I used the Rock Solid on my double garage. Coverage was half what it stated on the box kit. Prepped as instructed and had bubbles form while it cured. Had to spray acetone over the bubbles to pop them. Still see rings from the popped bubbles but I can live with it, at least I don't have bubbles all over the floor. Overall pretty happy with Rock Solid. Used the other kind for another section and it's flaking in spots. The RS is resistant to solvents but not the flakes/chips in the finish.
For the prep, id just grind off the top layer and open the floor up. Way faster. At that point you can put down a vapor barrier, then prime on top of that, then use your finish product.
My floor looks amazing after a year. Prep is key, don’t skimp, I bought 10 lbs of flake & applied heavily. The flake included a metallic color. After it dried, we scraped flakes that were popped up, with a floor scraping blade. Then a heavy seal coat.
Likely the effect of the grinding and etching on the epoxy based repair material vs. concrete. The epoxy likely doesn't need cleaning and etching, either
Getting ready to do the Rock Solid tomorrow. I was curious about the flakes and if you can feel them when you run your hand over the floor? I’m debating on if I need to do a gloss coat to seal the flakes in or if it’s even needed? Thanks for the video!
Sorry for the delay, if you do a light flake you will not feel the flakes. I think a clear coat is a good idea but mix in the anti-skid additive to avoid being slick when wet.
I live in Florida. Slab moisture is a big deal and will make virtually all epoxy peel eventually. Moisture barriers MIGHT help. I ended up putting in Swisstrax tiles. they are slotted and allow moisture to evaporate thru. Only floor prep was to sweep it out. My wife and I did the installation on a Saturday. Looks great, wears like iron and never peels. I have no financial interest in Swisstrax. Great product. Great customer service. In my opinion looks better than the epoxy; you can make your own design .
I'm also in FL and having moisture in slab. I'm going forward with the RockSolid kit though and just used their Moisture Stop product (1 gal per 100 sq ft I used vs per 150 sq ft they rec) and hopefully that will work...
hey man, when youre done . at what point do you peel the painters tape up off the garage lip to get a clean finish? if its wet wont it create the epoxy to drip still or once its solid the epoxy has hardened over the tape, how do you get that clean look at the entrance?
Yep you can use the clear coat on Rustoleum Rock Solid kit. Check the window of time to apply the clear coat after putting down the Rock Solid and also check to see if you need to lightly scuff the surface.
Divian makes a great truck. I have always been a Tesla fan and put the reservation 4.5 years ago thinking they would be the first to autonomy. Hopefully will get FSD on the Cybertruck in June or July 🤞
@@EverydayHomeRepairs well it looks like the rental and UA-cam business are treating you well if you’re out there buying big battery electric toys. I think you need to add a battery electric 301.9 mini excavator to the mix.
How do you recommend cleaning and etching a floor in a Barndo with no floor drain. I’m not sure how to get the water out with a door threshold and no drain.
Honestly the prep from the DIY kits is my least favorite part of the process. You might want to consider a full grind. It is a lot of work but the results usually will be superior. This video I do the full grind on this floor. ua-cam.com/video/KheIlf387aw/v-deo.html
Roughly 10years ago I did a 2-part epoxy coating on our garage floor and it looked great for about two months. Unfortunately, it began to blister. Our house is about 40yrs old and the garage floor does not have a vapor barrier, resulting in a lot of moisture. We recently had a pro come out for an estimate and he said that any epoxy flooring would fail in our garage. I will probably install a floating tile system.
I'm want to use the Rock Solid on an enclosed patio floor. This floor has been protected from the weather for 30 years. My problem is there are 2 expansion joints. There is about 1/2 in. elevation difference. What I do with the elevation difference?
That is a bit tough, even if you grind one side and fill the expansion joint to smooth everything out it will move and crack within the first year. What about epoxying the slabs and leaving the expansion joints. Tremco Vulkem 45 SSL could be used to seal the cracks and they have a lot of different colors to help you match.
I am going to rent a dual head diamond grinder coming up for another floor. I think prepping without the water and doing a complete grind is a much, much better way to prep. We shall see 🤞
an idea? I have bought the epoxy sheild- but I bought the dual garage kit but only need 1 bag- I'm thinking of doing two coats of the epoxy shield - probably "cant" hurt?
I really need to do this to my 36' x 25' garage but it's going to be a chore. I'm wondering if doing it in warmer ambient weather or in the cooler fall, like 70°.
There are instructions in the kits that specify the dwell time based on the temperature but the 70 degree weather would be a better time to do it. Epoxy will cure below 40 eventually, but you don't want to apply it if the temperatures of the surface being coated, the air and the product aren't between 60 to 85. I'm in Florida. I can't do this until November, maybe October at best. Other areas can do them year around.
Where's the video for what you did on your house? We are turning our screened patio into a 3 seaaon and want to epoxy the floors first. It will be open to wind, etc while we prep and apply since its only screened.
Anytime I hear that a coating, any coating, is already peeing off within a year, it's always due to prep. Either it wasn't cleaned enough, dulled enough, or it wasn't tested for moisture. As long as the coated surface is clean, dry and sound, you should not have peeling at all.
Would it be possible to do this with a $400-$500 budget? Also is it worth it? Half garage is a home gym then the rest is space for a car(not used often) and workspace
There is a guy on youtube who does this professionally and also sells the products he uses. The channel name is Concrete Floor Solutions. He has some great videos on this. He says one of the biggest reasons for failure is the acid etch.
Thanks for the feedback, I am actually working with Jeff and Jason that own Concrete Floor Solutions for the "Pro" floor I will be putting down next. They do great work and have awesome products 👍👍
I've never done this type of flooring work but it seems like chip and crack repair should be Step #1 just to keep dust, even with a shop vac attached, to an absolute minimum.
I tried to stick to the standard installation but totally agree a primer would be a better approach. I will be doing another option for Epoxy Flooring where I grind the concrete down and also use a primer in addition to superior product for Epoxy, Flake, and Top Coat.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs you did mention that I know, but just so other people know. Prep is absolutely key like mentioned in the video. Personally I did a grind job on mine and used the rustoleum kit and it still peeled after a year. I had to grind it all off again and the next go around I used Rust bullet epoxy. $190 a gallon but I can drag anvils across my floor with no issue. Great content 👍
I'll probably go for rock solid. Yeah it's more expensive, but it's something you won't be doing every year so it's better to get the better product from the start and do it right the first time. If the cheaper epoxy fails, now you're doing this all over again and you're spending more than you would have with Rock Solid.
I am on vacation so this is going to take all week so the floor can dry. The good news is that I am in California so it is still 90+ degrees outside and no humidity.
I have an epoxy shield floor put on my garage 20 years ago. It needs to be redone. Can I just repaint over it? Or is there some type of prep that I need to do?
Seems like a ton of work for marginal benefit. If I wanted to make a garage floor look nice I’d just put down the rubber mat flooring- easy to replace pieces if needed.
Depends on your use case. If all you do is use it as a storage room for your cars and or stuff it'll work. For those that work on vehicles or use their garage as a shop, those tiles become an absolute nightmare. This makes it way easier to clean up spills and leaks without the nasty oil stains left behind
@@Cr480mxEvery mechanic I’ve ever been to has an unfinished concrete floor in the shop. I would think if you’re expecting to regularly get oil and grease on the floor no flooring is going to look good in the long run, no matter how expensive.
I am the owner of a professional epoxy business. A professional epoxy floor shares no similarities to these crappy Home Depot rustoleum kits. Most of my business comes from homeowners who “tried to do it themselves”… then I have to charge more to grind it all up and apply a proper 100% solids system.
The wife and I did our garage years ago, but it needs to be redone. Going to hire it done this time. Getting too old. Thumbs up on the truck. I have my name on one.
At least muriatic acid wash. He literally had the grinder in his hands that would have added years to the life of this floor. Sometimes spending a little more can make a huge difference. If I did this floor real products and a grind I’d expect at least a Seven year life.
I will be doing a full grind in the coming weeks on this floor which some higher quality and much thicker product to show the other end of the spectrum of options if you are willing to pay more for equipment and product.
If we have asbestos mastic under asbestos tile on a floor, in THEORY couldn't we encapsulate and bury the asbestos under many coats of epoxy without having to grind anything away? People talk about it not adhering over time but wouldn't that not matter if I had a thick enough slab or enough layers of epoxy to seal everything off? I'm aware this idea isn't the professional way to do it but in a situation were I am short on time and funds and need to make a space safe for people/animals, in theory wouldn't it work to just dump a thick enough epoxy slab on a floor and bury the asbestos...? Thoughts?
![Rustoleum ROCK SOLID Perfect Results [Secrets]](/img/n.gif)
Rust-Oleum Epoxy Shield Kit - geni.us/SEtkM
Rust-Oleum Rock Solid Kit - geni.us/Fwq9
Epoxy Patch Kit - geni.us/mwChC
Clear Finish Top Coat - geni.us/DKb1X
Anti Skid Powder - geni.us/ZKIB7J
Diamond Cup Wheel and Dust Shroud - geni.us/62DRoCj
Diamond Blade for Cracks - geni.us/KgupX
DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
I’ve done a full grind on the floor, and going the Rock Solid route. I watched the other video with the pro level stuff and the cost and number of steps and VOC off gassing are all turn offs.
Thank you for both videos. It’s confirmed what I have learned so far and helped me decide how to finish this project.
Just got done with painting my 250sq foot floor after full grind. I did the 2.5 car garage kit which is supposed to cover 500sq ft. It comes with 2 paint bags, so I did the first, then 24hrs later did the second so that I could give some areas a 2nd coat.
Takeaways: I needed a third bag of paint to address the thin areas where the paint soaked into the concrete after the first coat. And I would like to have done the sand and epoxy approach to crack repair.
Overall I’m happy with my results, and believe it should be durable for years.
We had a professional do an epoxy-flake with transparent topcoat in our 2-car garage. One guy did the whole thing in one day. He etched with a rotary grinder. After dust-removal, he did a fast-curing epoxy (components mixed in the back of a truck)--then he *saturated* this coating with vinyl flakes. After a few hours of curing, he scraped off the excess flakes. Last step was a clear top-coat over the epoxy/flakes. It turned out really nice. I replicated the process with the RockSolid polycuramine system from a BigBox store. But I used twice as much material as suggested and ordered extra vinyl flakes in bulk to saturate the wet polycuramine. After curing 1 day, I scraped off the extra flakes with an old drywall knife on a stick, then covered with a a clear polycuramine topcoat (with anti-slip material added). These products aren't cheap, but they work great if used correctly--same result as the professional. If you use the BigBox products as suggested on the box, with sparse numbers of flakes, those floors can get extremely slippery when wet.
I used the original epoxy shield kit many years ago and it held up great on a 14-year-old garage floor. I skipped the included acid crystals and used muriatic acid from HD. The crystals just didn't seem strong enough based on what others said at the time. This was back in 02 and we sold the house almost 8 years ago and the floor still looked just as it did when we originally installed it. No hot tire pick up and no chipping. The inconsistency that you see is a lack of product in that area.
Thanks for the feedback. The Epoxy Shield was a bit thinner on the application.
I did exactly the same thing at around 2004, though my garage floor was nearly new. I ended up putting two 2-car kits in my 2 car garage as I felt the first coat was not enough. I also did not add any flakes. But it's held up well for the past 20 years. The only issue i experienced over that time is staining in some areas.
Both of the products look great in my opinion. I’m more amazed that you only had one crack in your garage floor! Awesome video, Scott!
No doubt, that floor was in really good shape 💯. My house, not so much 😔
Your videos always give me the confidence to try new DIY projects. Thanks.
You bet!
Thanks for taking the time to produce this video on a very practical topic. You are a wonderful educator. Great presentation style without attitude & distracting music. Bravo!
I used the Rust-Oleum on my floor back in 2015 and it is still there today. Rough winters with brine & salt and sand. I am just now getting a few places coming up.
Thanks!!!
Are you able to touch up the surface where it comes up, like painting a wall that gets scuffed?
Yes, we rented a floor scuffer and then recoated with the solvent based epoxy and did a top coat. So much better than our original coating (just the water based epoxy)@@ben_is_tall
Excellent informative video. Most coating failures are due to lack of proper preparation. On older unpainted garage floors it is important to thoroughly clean them, removing dirt, grease, oil, break fluid, etc, use muriatic acid to etch the floor which allows the floor coating to penetrate into the concrete for a proper bond, make sure the floor is completely dry before application and finally allow the product to properly cure before parking on or using the space. Previously painted floors should be prepped professionally via grinding or shot blasting to allow proper adhesion of the new coating. Unfortunately most home owners and so called handymen skip this vital process thus resulting in chipping and peeling, wasting time and money. Do it right the first time.
I'm co-owner of Colorado Liquid Floors. We grind and use polyurea for the base with polyaspartic for the top. We have a 25yr warranty.
Thanks so much for the feedback. Next floor coming in a few weeks will be a full grind 💯
Great video! Many of us have epoxy coated garage floors that have long since deteriorated. I think a great video would be dealing with a previously coated floor that needs to be re-done.
Don’t do it. It will happen again. Put down Swiss Trax tiles. I did. Easy to do. I have no financial or personal interest in Swisstrax.
@@MrCabimero These are interesting... I like the look. I'm considering this for my garage gym, but they don't appear to be waterproof. Am I wrong or do they have openings to the floor below? How do they feel? Do they squish down at all with a heavy object on top?
@@jarich0327 they have slits in them so any moisture will drain through. They are some type of plastic. I would not be dropping weights on them as I'm sure they would crack with time. Supporting a car weight is one thing but dropping weights from your arms onto them is another. if you contact them they will send you a sample so you can put it in your hand and see what it feels like. I can't say enough good things about them and as I mentioned I have no personal or financial connection with them. I'm just a happy customer
@@MrCabimero alright, thanks for the info!
Great video, I especially liked the time frame. Most people don't understand how long these DIY projects really take to do it right.
Amen, I think rushing the drying step is where a lot of people get in trouble.
Amazing video. I wish all the DYI videos for everything were this details. THANK YOU!!
Got my floors done professionally 423 sqft for about 2400$ with polyaspartic. I started to look into how to DIY it and came down to a few conclusions. One was that the equipment rentals, materials, and prep would get me close to the professional cost but there would be savings. Two, the lack of experience with polyaspartic can definitely end up with poor results. Shot blasting floors is better then grinding them so a shot blaster would have cost me nearly $1000 to rent out for the project. Paying a professional was worth their experience and the difference in cost was maybe $500-$700 more then a possible bad DIY.
Yeah, I’ve seen poorly done DIY jobs where it didn’t hold for even a year. Probably the right call. I’d probably hire it out too.
I can’t agree with you more. Like Clint Eastwood said in a movie, “ A man’s got to know his limitations.”
And $6/ft2 is very fair for polyaspartic+prep.
I have a 3 car which is about 550 sq ft. I had 2 quotes polyaspartic. One was nearly 5k and the other over. Crazy. Needless to say my floor is still raw concrete.
What was your square foot cost to get that done?
Having my garage floor done professionally this summer. Have a friend who had it done in 2019 by the same contractor and it still looks great.
Nice, hope it turns out great 🙌
How much ?
Too much @@OGCJ10
Great video! The best way to test hot tire pickup is to let the hot tire sit on the epoxy long enough for the tire to cool before moving it. I understand it rained. Nice work on the installation.
For sure, I need a nice sunny hot summer day to redo the test and let the heat soak in. Thanks for the feedback.
Great video Scott. I like your meticulous effort in the details of prepping which is the key to any projects. Your survey about the durability was another plus to the video. Keep up the great work!
I bought a brand-new home in Houston TX in 2018. In 2022, I bought the Rust-Oleum garage floor epoxy and did my 2-car garage. I followed all of the instructions.
My garage was fairly clean, and my wife had just bought a Tesla in 2022 and wanted to park it in the garage...so that's why I epoxied the garage floor.
After about two months of parking in the garage...I noticed two small spots of Hot Tire delaminating on the garage floor. I just left it as is.
In mid 2023 we moved out of state...but the floor still looked great.
I'm moving into a new build in AZ in early 2025 and I'm going to be epoxying my two garages before I move in!
I got the best result when i ground the old floor, applied a layer of self level and then epoxy coating. Epoxy can be applied to the self level within a few days
Did a DIY Rust-oleum floor and it lasted about 3 years before it started flaking up under normal use. Then a got a pro company "Guardian Floor" to replace it. More expensive but worth it. I guess it depends on how much you want to spend. Great video.
If you look at the box it says it should be re done every 3-5 years 🤔
Wow, too bad, our Rustoleum floor is 14 yrs and still perfect. We also put the clear coat over it. It was new concrete.
Garage floor coating is always an awesome transformation 😊🛠️
Big Difference 💯
Pretty good demonstration. I think the rock hard epoxy is much prettier and easier to apply. Congratulations on getting the Truck. It looks very beautiful. Thank you for sharing
I am in the 1 - 3 years currently and my floor is perfect. But I also sanded my floor with a floor polisher and a diamond sanding disk. Also I used the Rock Solid on my floor.
I’ve found that epoxyshield works just as well as long as you top coat it with the rock solid clearcoat
Great comparison. I’v used the epoxy shield on several homes before the rock solid came on the market. Unfortunately after a couple years, I noticed tire marks, stains, and some flaking. I used the rock solid on my brother’s home a few years ago with much better results!
Scott,
Our floor was done impromperly by a "professional" a number of years ago, so we have old chipping and peeling. Don't think they etched. Some have suggested we need to belt sand all that off first. Also some have suggested using a sherwin williams william concrete sealer and just paint. Any thoughts?
P S, i renovated my moms 100 year old farmhouse myself using your videos. And a rental. When contractors come over and talk to my husband, I'm like eyes over here buddy! Thanks.
The technology and application standards are alot better now. Get a good Polyaspartic company to do it and come out happy and with a warranty
I've had my Epoxy Shield in one garage for 4 years and another for 2 years, and I love it. Proper prep is critical (grinding, patching, etching, dryout, etc) and I was 100% set on using clear coat finish (I think it's a must). The only failure point I've had is some cracking above what I know to be the house's main drain line that runs through the garage to the driveway. The previous sellers had the drain line fully replaced, so it's only 3-4 years old. I'm stumped as to why it failed there. Hopefully not from any new moisture.
Forgive me if I missed it, but what product would you recommend for a moisure type sealant that would be applied underneath the epoxy? Kilz?
Thanks for sharing this video. It's very helpful and educational. 👍🏻👍🏻Great charts!
Very useful video! I watched it twice already and will do at least a couple of more times when I do the actual job! I had been putting this off for so long but after watching your video I am re-energized! 😊
Great content. I like that odors or fumes didn't seem to be an issue. I have a 2 1/2 ft below the foundation pit in front of a large stone fireplace that needs this makeover thanks!
Thank you for this video. I really was having a hard time on deciding which type of flooring.
Awesome upload. For DIY project ur results look fantastic using both products. Would be satisfied with the results! Hopefully it lasts more than 5 years! Learned a lot from ur vid pros n cons. Kudos for saving me some time n frustrations when I decide to resurface my garage. Anticipating ur next one. Peace
I used the Rock Solid on my double garage. Coverage was half what it stated on the box kit. Prepped as instructed and had bubbles form while it cured. Had to spray acetone over the bubbles to pop them. Still see rings from the popped bubbles but I can live with it, at least I don't have bubbles all over the floor. Overall pretty happy with Rock Solid. Used the other kind for another section and it's flaking in spots. The RS is resistant to solvents but not the flakes/chips in the finish.
For the prep, id just grind off the top layer and open the floor up. Way faster. At that point you can put down a vapor barrier, then prime on top of that, then use your finish product.
Agreed! Grinding would be a much better prep 👍
My floor looks amazing after a year. Prep is key, don’t skimp, I bought 10 lbs of flake & applied heavily. The flake included a metallic color. After it dried, we scraped flakes that were popped up, with a floor scraping blade. Then a heavy seal coat.
Nice, the next one I do in a few weeks will have about 10X-15X the amount of flake and much thicker epoxy with a primer.
Why not take care of cracks before you clean n etch ?
came here to ask the same question.
Likely the effect of the grinding and etching on the epoxy based repair material vs. concrete. The epoxy likely doesn't need cleaning and etching, either
The materials used to repair will adhere a lot better when the floor is completely clean allowing it to last wayyyyy longer
Really liked the honest installation and the detail you went into with showing the products.
Thanks for the feedback, trying to be unbiased so viewers can make the best decision for their own project 👍
Man I failed so bad the first time I did it... My failure was not giving it enough time between each step ... It's ok I'm ready for next spring 😁👍..
Getting ready to do the Rock Solid tomorrow. I was curious about the flakes and if you can feel them when you run your hand over the floor? I’m debating on if I need to do a gloss coat to seal the flakes in or if it’s even needed? Thanks for the video!
Sorry for the delay, if you do a light flake you will not feel the flakes. I think a clear coat is a good idea but mix in the anti-skid additive to avoid being slick when wet.
I live in Florida. Slab moisture is a big deal and will make virtually all epoxy peel eventually. Moisture barriers MIGHT help. I ended up putting in Swisstrax tiles. they are slotted and allow moisture to evaporate thru. Only floor prep was to sweep it out.
My wife and I did the installation on a Saturday. Looks great, wears like iron and never peels. I have no financial interest in Swisstrax. Great product. Great customer service. In my opinion looks better than the epoxy; you can make your own design .
Thanks for the tip I will check them out 👍
You also can’t turn the wheels much.
This^. Jack stands will also tear em up.
I'm also in FL and having moisture in slab. I'm going forward with the RockSolid kit though and just used their Moisture Stop product (1 gal per 100 sq ft I used vs per 150 sq ft they rec) and hopefully that will work...
hey man, when youre done . at what point do you peel the painters tape up off the garage lip to get a clean finish? if its wet wont it create the epoxy to drip still or once its solid the epoxy has hardened over the tape, how do you get that clean look at the entrance?
Wow! Hardest working man on YT! Great lesson and project !
Thanks so much!
The clear top coat is vital to getting consistent look, if you use just the basic product
These products work great assuming you take the time to do the prep work and follow the directions.
Yeah, the prep should not be rushed 💯
can that top coat at the end of the video goes on the rock solid coated floor? i thought that's not recommended for 2 part epoxy floors
Yep you can use the clear coat on Rustoleum Rock Solid kit. Check the window of time to apply the clear coat after putting down the Rock Solid and also check to see if you need to lightly scuff the surface.
I'm skeptical about citric acid to etch. We'll see! I'm thinking tile, but the cost/area of a coating sure is appealing.
I used the behr epoxy floor coating and the clear gloss
Did you really buy a cyber truck Scott? I figured you would be a Rivian backer.
Divian makes a great truck. I have always been a Tesla fan and put the reservation 4.5 years ago thinking they would be the first to autonomy. Hopefully will get FSD on the Cybertruck in June or July 🤞
@@EverydayHomeRepairs well it looks like the rental and UA-cam business are treating you well if you’re out there buying big battery electric toys. I think you need to add a battery electric 301.9 mini excavator to the mix.
How do you recommend cleaning and etching a floor in a Barndo with no floor drain. I’m not sure how to get the water out with a door threshold and no drain.
Honestly the prep from the DIY kits is my least favorite part of the process. You might want to consider a full grind. It is a lot of work but the results usually will be superior. This video I do the full grind on this floor. ua-cam.com/video/KheIlf387aw/v-deo.html
Clear coat is KEY after applying the epoxy and flakes!
Thanks for the feedback!
Roughly 10years ago I did a 2-part epoxy coating on our garage floor and it looked great for about two months. Unfortunately, it began to blister. Our house is about 40yrs old and the garage floor does not have a vapor barrier, resulting in a lot of moisture. We recently had a pro come out for an estimate and he said that any epoxy flooring would fail in our garage. I will probably install a floating tile system.
I'm want to use the Rock Solid on an enclosed patio floor. This floor has been protected from the weather for 30 years. My problem is there are 2 expansion joints. There is about 1/2 in. elevation difference. What I do with the elevation difference?
That is a bit tough, even if you grind one side and fill the expansion joint to smooth everything out it will move and crack within the first year. What about epoxying the slabs and leaving the expansion joints. Tremco Vulkem 45 SSL could be used to seal the cracks and they have a lot of different colors to help you match.
Our floor was never going to be flat, but really needed to be grinded down, I think that was a major issue with ours. We did the prep properly though.
I am going to rent a dual head diamond grinder coming up for another floor. I think prepping without the water and doing a complete grind is a much, much better way to prep. We shall see 🤞
an idea? I have bought the epoxy sheild- but I bought the dual garage kit but only need 1 bag- I'm thinking of doing two coats of the epoxy shield - probably "cant" hurt?
Thank you very much for your excellent Video!!!
I really need to do this to my 36' x 25' garage but it's going to be a chore. I'm wondering if doing it in warmer ambient weather or in the cooler fall, like 70°.
There are instructions in the kits that specify the dwell time based on the temperature but the 70 degree weather would be a better time to do it. Epoxy will cure below 40 eventually, but you don't want to apply it if the temperatures of the surface being coated, the air and the product aren't between 60 to 85. I'm in Florida. I can't do this until November, maybe October at best. Other areas can do them year around.
That's for the Epoxy though. The RockSolid can go down to 40. It's 40 - 90.
What do you think the difference would be in quality if you primed the floor first
Amazing comparison and how to video!!! 😊
Thanks for the support 🙌
If it's a brand new build, brand new garage, cement foundation just laid loke a month ago, can I skip the first half of your instructions? Thank you!!
Where's the video for what you did on your house?
We are turning our screened patio into a 3 seaaon and want to epoxy the floors first.
It will be open to wind, etc while we prep and apply since its only screened.
Excellent video ❤🙏👊
Anytime I hear that a coating, any coating, is already peeing off within a year, it's always due to prep. Either it wasn't cleaned enough, dulled enough, or it wasn't tested for moisture. As long as the coated surface is clean, dry and sound, you should not have peeling at all.
I would agree with that 👍
Would it be possible to do this with a $400-$500 budget? Also is it worth it? Half garage is a home gym then the rest is space for a car(not used often) and workspace
Have you gotten any resunts using the 1 part Behr Garage Epoxy vs the 2 Part Rustoleum Kit. Cuious of how it holds up with Behr being pre mixed
Also did your pull include thos who had added the Rustoleum Clear epoxy topper?
There is a guy on youtube who does this professionally and also sells the products he uses. The channel name is Concrete Floor Solutions. He has some great videos on this. He says one of the biggest reasons for failure is the acid etch.
Thanks for the feedback, I am actually working with Jeff and Jason that own Concrete Floor Solutions for the "Pro" floor I will be putting down next. They do great work and have awesome products 👍👍
The great thing about using a power washer Rotary Surface Cleaner is that you won't get water on your walls or feet.
what do you recommend, for a safe temperature to do this?
I've never done this type of flooring work but it seems like chip and crack repair should be Step #1 just to keep dust, even with a shop vac attached, to an absolute minimum.
H&C from shrewin Williams i s a good one used it many times. Over a hundred colors to choose from and then put sealer on it
Excellent video!! Thanks!!
You bet 👍
Thank you
You bet, best of luck on your project.
Good video.. minus the tesla truck lol that thing is awful.
Surprised didnt use a primer base first.. thats what locks the moisture away from the epoxy and then a top gloss coat to protect it.
I tried to stick to the standard installation but totally agree a primer would be a better approach. I will be doing another option for Epoxy Flooring where I grind the concrete down and also use a primer in addition to superior product for Epoxy, Flake, and Top Coat.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs armor epoxy seems to be the better quality diy kit
Been trying to find a small can of Rust Oleum epoxy garage floor coating for touchups. Anyone know what the name of this gray coating is called?
Holy moly where do you live? I was quoted $5500 for my 650 sqft garage by multiple contractors.
Illinois
I just bought brand new construction home. Do i still need to use degraser?
Grind the floor. 6” diamond cup wheel and an angle grinder.
Yeah, a full grind is the best prep for sure 💯
@@EverydayHomeRepairs you did mention that I know, but just so other people know. Prep is absolutely key like mentioned in the video. Personally I did a grind job on mine and used the rustoleum kit and it still peeled after a year. I had to grind it all off again and the next go around I used Rust bullet epoxy. $190 a gallon but I can drag anvils across my floor with no issue. Great content 👍
Phil Mcrackin did my garage floor.
I'll probably go for rock solid. Yeah it's more expensive, but it's something you won't be doing every year so it's better to get the better product from the start and do it right the first time. If the cheaper epoxy fails, now you're doing this all over again and you're spending more than you would have with Rock Solid.
What to do if u have a moisture problem?
One question is it slippery when wet?
Thoughts on a second coat of epoxy before flakes to add some thickness for durability?
Im pretty sure it will have difficulties binding to the other coat of epoxy. Id look into it however
Yeah, not sure how the 2 layers would bond. Maybe it would be okay but I was pleased wth the Rock Solid side which went on much thicker.
I think it says it can be recoated for up to 30 days. After that it's supposed to be sanded with 80 grit for adhesion.
@@jdhogg18 interesting, it probably sand the first coat a bit just to ensure proper grab.
subscribed because you have a Cybertruck lol
I am on vacation so this is going to take all week so the floor can dry. The good news is that I am in California so it is still 90+ degrees outside and no humidity.
Are the flakes for aesthetics only ?
In this case pretty much, the next floor will have a "full flake" and a top coat which will help with the durability.
I have an epoxy shield floor put on my garage 20 years ago. It needs to be redone. Can I just repaint over it? Or is there some type of prep that I need to do?
how could you redo if you have peeling
I would grind down to fresh concrete. I will do that exact thing on this floor in the coming weeks.
Seems like a ton of work for marginal benefit. If I wanted to make a garage floor look nice I’d just put down the rubber mat flooring- easy to replace pieces if needed.
Depends on your use case. If all you do is use it as a storage room for your cars and or stuff it'll work. For those that work on vehicles or use their garage as a shop, those tiles become an absolute nightmare. This makes it way easier to clean up spills and leaks without the nasty oil stains left behind
@@Cr480mxEvery mechanic I’ve ever been to has an unfinished concrete floor in the shop. I would think if you’re expecting to regularly get oil and grease on the floor no flooring is going to look good in the long run, no matter how expensive.
Me watching the video: EZ as fuck. Me doing the project: WTF is this
No doubt!
Doesn't the degreeser say it is also an ectch?
The one I used was just the Cleaner and Degreaser. They have a similar bottle which is the Clean and Etch amzn.to/4bx0Vk8
Where is the video on the more professional system?
Still to come, we have a little trip planned and when I come back I will do the installation and release the video. Probably about 3 weeks from now.
I am the owner of a professional epoxy business. A professional epoxy floor shares no similarities to these crappy Home Depot rustoleum kits. Most of my business comes from homeowners who “tried to do it themselves”… then I have to charge more to grind it all up and apply a proper 100% solids system.
Was I the only one who was screaming at the tv when he missed a spot when he was applying the first epoxy? My OCD did not cope.
Who told you about my drywall mud on the garage floor??
The wife and I did our garage years ago, but it needs to be redone. Going to hire it done this time. Getting too old. Thumbs up on the truck. I have my name on one.
At least muriatic acid wash. He literally had the grinder in his hands that would have added years to the life of this floor. Sometimes spending a little more can make a huge difference. If I did this floor real products and a grind I’d expect at least a Seven year life.
I will be doing a full grind in the coming weeks on this floor which some higher quality and much thicker product to show the other end of the spectrum of options if you are willing to pay more for equipment and product.
If we have asbestos mastic under asbestos tile on a floor, in THEORY couldn't we encapsulate and bury the asbestos under many coats of epoxy without having to grind anything away? People talk about it not adhering over time but wouldn't that not matter if I had a thick enough slab or enough layers of epoxy to seal everything off?
I'm aware this idea isn't the professional way to do it but in a situation were I am short on time and funds and need to make a space safe for people/animals, in theory wouldn't it work to just dump a thick enough epoxy slab on a floor and bury the asbestos...? Thoughts?
I laughed out loud when I saw the cyber truck
People like to make fun of others having things they can't themselves afford. It's a coping mechanism.
That’s when I stopped watching.
@@TheRumpleThump do they? That’s nice.
I just wasn’t expecting it
Did all the videos from this channel pay for that truck? Or was the truck given to him I wonder?
@nicklindsey3099 I wish Tesla was giving these away 😂
Great video looks wayyyyy to hard tho I’m gonna need a good recommendation of someone that I can hire to do this 😉
Other issue is those coatings don’t hold up in lots of sunlight